Khuluma_finalStrung1

FASHION’S UPSTARTS DISCOVER

Roman Handt’s anti- normal boxing wear

Against the norm Martelle Ludik’s gender lfuid threads

Textile artisan and fashion scientist Roman DECEMBER 2020 49
Handt’s philosophy is that clothing needs to make us
re-think what is acceptable to wear. ‘It is not necessarily a
visual thing, but more about what the garment is made of. Think
about the label Ecoalf – all of their clothing is made out of recyclable
bottles or plastics found on land as well as fishnet reclaimed
from the sea.’

The responsibility, it seems, lies with the designer as well as the
consumer, and technology is helping us to change our habits. ‘Things that are
acceptable to wear are those things that are sensitive to the environment
and the future of our planet,’ says Handt. But that doesn’t mean the
designs have to be boring! Handt’s ‘Fight the Norm’ designer boxing
wear does exactly what it says on the label. And his ‘Gender Neutral’
collection consists of beautifully constructed pieces in lace and
silky fabrics with intricate embroidery that can be worn by men and
women, exposing the social constructs of gender which he has
reified to appear natural. The looks are classy, monochrome and
fitted, and a fun look at genderfluidity in fashion.

The baggy athleisure pants can be worn in the ‘usual’ way
by men or pulled up and rocked as a onesie by women, whilst
other pieces can be worn as is by men, women and anyone in
between. Such shifts in the paradigm of gendered clothing
might be a shock to some, but no-one can deny the benefits
they afford – such as being able to choose from all the shelves
at your favourite boutique. And maybe dip into your partner’s
wardrobe without fear.

Out the box

Globally, designs that are conversation starters are purposefully
created by designers who want to send a message – be it political,
environmental or personal. If a conversation is what we’re having,
we could start by talking about the prêt-à-porter fashion designs
of Martelle Ludik. His ‘Beauty is a Drag’ feature for HUF magazine
plays with genderfluidity. Male models wear bold red leopard-print

kulula.com

DISCOVER FASHION’S UPSTARTS

Viviers Viviers

Floyd Avenue palazzo pants combined
with pleather gloves and their
Martelle Ludik midriffs are exposed in sheer stockings Viviers
paired with cropped pleather jackets with pink
Martelle Ludik puffy sleeves. This is pleather-gender-bending Pictures: Aart Verrips, Eunice Driver, supplied
at its best, and Ludik makes it runway and ready-
50 DECEMBER 2020 to-wear worthy.
Some call what Ludik does inventive. Others
only see the ugly.
According to designer Lezanne Viviers,
‘Purposefully ugly fashion often jokes with the
fashion world and with consumerism by seeing
how far trends could be created and pushed
and still be accepted to drive sales on a
retail level.’

Viviers knows all about pushing. She lives
in the alt-normal world. Her VIVIERS brand
is designed for the individual who doesn’t fit
into a square box. ‘Or even into a box at all,’
she says.

At her studio, the design process is thought of
differently, with sustainable practice taking precedence.

Textile waste is minimised and off-cut fabrics
and ‘dead stock’ fabrics are used in limited edition
collections. As a Marianne Fassler protégé, Viviers
knows all about convention-challenging design and her

lookbook is anything but beige. The VIVIERS SS2020
campaign, sees men dressed in soft, silky fabrics,
in shapes and colours traditionally thought of as
‘feminine’ – think puffed sleeves and long, ruched skirts
in soft purples and iridescent pinks.

kulula.com

LITERARY NOURISHMENT DISCOVER

The good food

books

Extended time at home means digging
into old recipe books or searching for
new ones that fit whatever fresh health
trend you’ve cottoned onto. These are
a few of our favourites…

kulula.com DECEMBER 2020 51

DISCOVER LITERARY NOURISHMENT 3

1 4
2
Mindful Eating
Eat yourself healthy, clean and – yes Conscious eating is the
– even happy with these cookbooks clear motive in celeb
chef Izelle Hoffman’s
Jonno Proudfoot’s The Real Meal Revolution 2.0 is the most perception-shifting recipe
recent upgrade to the radical, sustainable approach to healthy book in which you’re
eating that promises to reduce cravings and other side-effects that encouraged to treat
make most diets implode. food (including delicious
desserts and other treats)
Flexitarianism is a legit thing and Melissa Hemsley’s Eat Happy as a preventative medicine.
is all about that lifestyle with a focus on ‘planet-friendly eating’ – the
title says it all. 5

No sugar or dairy or gluten in any of the 250 health-forward The Flexitarian
recipes in Amy Chaplin’s beautifully conceived book, Whole Food Cookbook
Cooking Every Day. Like Sarah Graham’s
Super Natural (which
The mission of Mafalda Pinto Leite’s Radiant: The Cookbook is you will have spotted one
to make you fall in love with pure food and help you transform your page back), this local
eating habits by working with nutrition-dense ingredients. cookbook taps into the
Michael Pollan philosophy
Aussie food authority Matt Preston’s More came out last which proclaims that we
November – all 100-plus recipes are vegan or vegetarian. should all ‘Eat food. Not
too much. Mostly plants.’
52 DECEMBER 2020
kulula.com

LITERARY NOURISHMENT DISCOVER

Star-struck
cookbooks

Acts, What’s up dogg?
eats, Gangster rapper Snoop Dogg
cooks first teamed up with his BFF
Martha Stewart to create a TV
cooking show, and now he’s
brought out From Crook to Cook,
a tome of 50 tasty, super-easy

munchie-satisfying recipes.

Actor and Nude Feeling gloopy?
cookbook author When she’s not selling
Armand Aucamp expensive weirdo cleanses,
shares his healthy Gwyneth Paltrow spends time in
eating philosophy the kitchen, cooking up love and
good health. The Clean Plate
It was vanity. I had to take my shirt off planet’s food system – it’s been destroyed. proffers ‘Delicious, healthy
for scenes in Ballade vir ’n Enkeling, so I Grains are difficult to digest. So, along with recipes for everyday glow’.
starved myself for the camera. My whole
life I’ve tried to look better, and it always sugars and refined oils, you need to think Ex-con catering
entailed a lot of effort. Restrictive diets, carefully before eating too many of them. Comedian Tracy Morgan’s visit to
over-exercising. I wasn’t overweight, but And these things lurk everywhere. If you only SA was scuppered by COVID-19,
that movie made me realise that I’ve got to be drink sugar in your tea, that’s probably fine, but with this book you can cook
more aware of how I treat my body. but if you are also having bread with jam and up witty recipes by his character
a bag of chips on the couch… Well, you might
That journey has made me want to connect be in trouble. from The Last O.G., an ex-con
with food and where it comes from. Over the turned chef. Its soul-food inspired
last hundred years or so, we’ve become so Common sense and personal experience
disconnected from our food. It’s something so have ultimately taught me that ethically dishes include wittily named
pivotal to our health, yet we don't know where farmed meat and green vegetables will have Snitches Get Ceviches and Prison
our food comes from, how to prepare it, or how fewer negative impacts on your health than
it’s processed before it reaches us. something that’s been altered, engineered, Pad Thai.
modified, burnt and processed.
For me, it’s become really simple. As a rule
of thumb: no grains, no processed oils, and Armand’s recipe book, Armand Kook
no sugar. I do break those rules – I’m not a Kaal (‘Armand Cooks Naked’), is inspired
saint – but I try to adhere as much as possible. by his low-carb, keto lifestyle; the
We need to keep in mind that there is just stripped-down English version is Nude.
too much food – too many calories – at our During lockdown, he released a 14-recipe
disposal. That’s the great big problem with the e-book, Inspiration for isolation, available
on Takealot and Amazon.

kulula.com DECEMBER 2020 53

DISCOVER LITERARY NOURISHMENT The BOSH! boys (left) have been called ‘the
vegan Jamie Olivers’; How to Live Vegan (far
Two’s left) is their essential guide to plant-based
company living; and their latest book, BOSH! Healthy
Vegan (below), shows how plant nutrition
can transform your wellbeing

Henry Firth and Ian Theasby are the ebullient

British duo behind BOSH! What started as
a vegan Facebook page and then spawned
a YouTube channel, TV shows and several
recipe books, is all down to their good-natured
approach to plant-based recipes and hacks,
including simple ways of making meals that
always feel like a treat rather than a chore.

Sunrise stints at Greystones Beach help fire
the twins’ endorphins (far left); you can’t go
wrong with their original recipe book (below);
and, their new book (left) is full of very
easy-to-follow recipes

Irish identical twins David and Stephen Flynn

call themselves The Happy Pear. They get a
kick from bracing swims in the icy sea and
have emerged as one of the hottest forces in
the health-conscious plant-based culinary
movement. They churn out online shows,
recipe books and live workshops about using
nutrition to improve health and wellbeing.

54 DECEMBER 2020 kulula.com



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