Khuluma December 2017

PICASSO HEADLINE take me home please December 2017

Water
Wonderland

Starring Marc Lottering

FOR THE MENU see pages 4 & 5

71



THE MILLENNIUM® DIAMOND RING

A South African icon



the topVIEW FROM

F or the most part, people seem enamoured of the calming effects and aesthetic
appeal of water. Think of drinks on the Knysna Lagoon, or sundowners in
Camps Bay, or drifting through the wine farms on the Breede River. As I write
this, I realise that such moments might have nothing to do with the water itself. Would
Hurricane Irene have been less intimidating if you were sipping a Rum Swizzle on your
veranda on Barbuda Island?

There is actually a very small range of behaviours within which water is appealing.
Sailing in False Bay is only fun until the wind starts to blow and you are subjected to a
forced salt exfoliation. Similarly, fishing is great while the sea is not moving, and you
are not chumming for sharks using your breakfast of three hours ago as bait. When
I was still a wee lad I went hobie cat sailing with a friend on Theewaterskloof Dam
(yes, it used to have water in it!) while the wind was picking up rubbish drums and
blowing them around the shore. It wasn’t much fun since I weighed much less than a
rubbish drum.

Then there is that first swim of the season on the West Coast, when you are
physically returned to your childhood and need to swallow an immersion heater
to get your innards working again. Or that paddle down the Zambezi rapids
when there is just enough water to launch you into every exposed rock. Or
floating though Gillooly’s Interchange in your car after a Gauteng
summer downpour.

But sometimes water really is perfect – especially in a glass with ice
and some additives. Cheers!

Erik Venter, CEO: Comair Ltd

kulula.com DECEMMBEARY 20176 3









Contents 43
DECEMBER 2017

24

50

75

The Guide

24 TRIPWORTHY 32 CITY SLICKER 62 BACKSTAGE 62
Go for the wall of falling water and stay for There are plentiful reasons to stay out of Who is Aunty
the ultimate New Year’s celebration. the bath and away from the shower in the Merle and what has
Mother City this month. she done with Marc
26 THE BIG SPLASH Lottering’s hair?
On our radar this month we have 39 NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH We also take a peek
comedy’s kings and queens, a cast Durban without the beach. at Durban’s salty
of immortal thespians, one Naked new pantomime.
Mexican, an Argentinean First Lady, a 43 REST ASSURED
comedian from Planet Mirth, a pair of Soothe your soul by sleeping close 75 SEE THE MUSIC
American R&B legends, plus the totally to water. Music and water make for
legendary White Zulu. There’s a trip-hop muddy dancefloors.
duo from the UK, a flashback to the 50 ACCIDENTAL ADVENTURER
Summer of ’69, a trio of Christmas ghosts, What happens when Tarzan rips his 83 READ BETWEEN THE LINES
a play about a zebra, a TV series about the loincloth? Guaranteed to turn you
V&A Waterfront, a book that sees into the into a know-it-all,
future, and a bunch of albums – from a 53 EPICUREAN TALES John Maytham’s trivia-
surfing rocker, a dodgy rapper, and a pair of Anna Trapido on how not to eat fish packed book is perfect
kiff electro-poppers. into extinction. for the beach.

8 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com



CONTENTS

172

Features 156

127 90 TRAVEL
What Marc Lottering gets up to at home and away;
tune into the soundtrack of Durban’s dance-crazy youth;
Mzansi’s coastline has treasures for non-swimmers, too;
exploring Namibia can be thirsty work; drool over khuluma’s
summertime ice cream favourites; our biggest house music
producers are in the, um, house; learn more about our
ocean’s protected havens; see water through the lens of a
pro; fall in love with turtles and then do your bit to save them;
and discover southern Africa’s magical waterfalls.

172 LOCAL HERO
Meet the ocean’s warrior queens; and hang with the lads who
spend more time in the water than on land.

190 BEHIND THE SCENES
The ancient art of dowsing is alive and well; and so are these
legendary creatures that dwell in the deep.

Things to covet, crave & adore

201 HEALTH, FITNESS & BEAUTY
What’s a spa without water?

209 FASHION & DESIGN 209
This new surf label embodies the
soul of Africa.

219 TECHNOLOGY & GAMES
Inventions that can help us save water.

224 ROAD TRIP
We do like to drive beside
the seaside.

231 MONEY MATTERS 224
Little luxuries can go a
long way.

235 KEEPSAKE
Seals worth seeing.

10 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com



EDITORIAL
Editor Keith Bain
Content Manager Raina Julies – [email protected]
Content Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne
Copy Editor Stuart Lewis

ART
Head of Design Studio Jayne Macé-Ferguson
Senior Designers Anja Hagenbuch, Mfundo Archie Ndzo

Advert Designer Nichole Liedeman
Production Editor Shamiela Brenner

Cover Photographer Sven Kristian
Make-up Artist Colleen van Rensburg

SALES
Project Manager Richard White
khlassifieds Project Manager Steve Norval
Sales Consultants Stephen Crawford, Jay Deary
Bonnie Eksteen, Randall Grace, Janine Hood, Sandile Kani, Nikita Moore, Roxanne Pijper,
Marc Plastow, Andre Potgieter, Roman Ross, Clint Smith, Zelda Stein
Advertising Co-ordinator Vanessa Payne

MANAGEMENT
Business Manager Lodewyk van der Walt – [email protected]

Senior Bookkeeper Deidre Musha
General Manager, Magazines Jocelyne Bayer

KULULA.COM
CEO Comair Limited Erik Venter
Head of Marketing, Loyalty and Customer Experience, kulula.com Shaun Pozyn
Marketing Manager, kulula.com Bridgette Ramuluvhana
Brand Communications Manager, kulula.com Luane Lavery

COMAIR LIMITED
1 Marignane Drive, Bonaero Park, Kempton Park, 1619
Tel: 011 921 0111 | kulula.com contact centre: 0861 KULULA (585852)

To advertise in this magazine, please contact
Richard White (Sales Project Manager) at +27 21 469 2542

or email [email protected]
To advertise in the khlassifieds section, please contact
Steve Norval (khlassifieds Project Manager) at +27 21 469 2435

or email [email protected]

Copyright: No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent of the
publishers. The publishers are not responsible for unsolicited material. khuluma is published monthly by
Picasso Headline Reg: 59/01754/07. The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of Picasso Headline,
kulula or Times Media. All advertisements/advertorials and promotions have been paid for and therefore
do not carry any endorsement by the publishers. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy
of its contents, neither kulula, nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors, or for
any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise therefrom. We reserve the right to edit interviews for

layout purposes.









COMPETITIONS GIVEAWAYS

Free stuff BULOVA GIVE-AWAY

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pictures: xxxxxxx

GIVEAWAYS COMPETITIONS

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COMPETITION
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Parker Pens are the gold standard in fine writing instruments and this month you can win a pen from Parker's new,
modern and instantly recognisable collection. Valued at R1 270, the new Parker Urban Rollerball pen comes in Muted Black
and Chrome Trim Finish. Visit www.khulumaonline.co.za to enter.

18 OCTOBER 2017



Redeem Avios and fly with us kulula.com

Through our partnership with Avios, the global travel
rewards programme, kulula fans who have joined
Avios will now not only be able to collect three Avios
for every R10 they spend, but they can now convert

their Avios to Travelbank credit for kulula.com
flights. Fans will be able to redeem in increments
of a 1000 Avios, equal to R60 in Travelbank credit,
which can be used on any flight, including airport
taxes. To ensure a smoother, quicker conversion
process to book kulula flights, fans are encouraged

to create a kulula ID and insert their Avios
membership number into their profile so they never
miss out on collecting and redeeming their Avios.
For more information on how to collect and redeem

Avios for flights, visit kulula.com or alternatively
sign up to the Avios Travel Rewards Programme on

www.avios.com.

Please note that we will soon be introducing
credit and debit card payments onboard. Once
these are in use, we will no longer accept cash
as a form of payment for any of our menu items.

Dear kulula.com customers:
check in now closes 45 minutes ahead of

your fl ight!

Choose your favourite Protea Hotel by
Marriot® or Tsogo Sun Hotel and let kulula
book your room. Now that’s luxury you
can afford.

Join Avios, link it to your kulula ID profile
and collect three Avios for every R10
spent on kulula flights. To register, visit
kulula.com.

Got some eBucks? Pay or part-pay for your
next kulula flight using your eBucks.

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GET SOCIAL

Share your holidays
with the people who care about vacations,
send us your holiday pics.

20 DECEMBER 2017

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www.mile16privatebeachestate.co.za | www.group3properties.com





GtUheIDE ling for

worth travel

24 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com

piWcotrudrs:es:KeixtxhxxBxaixxn, Photograph: Supplied TRIPWORTHY THE GUIDE

T here’s good reason
that this great natural
wonder is known locally
as Mosi Oa Tunya – ‘The Smoke that
Thunders’. It really does. How else
to describe the deep-bellied roar
as millions upon million of litres
of water torrentially plummet
100 metres into the depths of
Batoka Gorge?

Pictures are all very well, but
you need to get up close to feel
it’s electrifying energy coursing
through your body. More than
a natural wonderland, though,
if you time your trip properly,
you can also experience one of
southern Africa’s finest New Year’s
celebrations – Vic Falls Carnival.
This year’s festival is headlined by
international award-winning DJ
Black Coffee, with electric-pop duo
The Kiffness, Congolese Afrofusion
producer Trésor, and Zimbabwean
songstress Amarra Brown all
lending their magic to this multi-day
extravaganza.

It’s not only a music event, though.
There’s also time to sample the
various adventures Vic Falls has
to offer – during the day, you can
bungee jump off the bridge between
Zimbabwe and Zambia, go on game
drives, ascend in a microlight for a
bird’s eye view of the falls, or
test your mettle against challenging
Zambezi rapids.
Turn to page 75 for more on this
and other watery festivals coming
up. Visit kulula.com to book flights
to Vic Falls and Livingstone, or visit
vicfallscarnival.com for a variety of
fly-stay-party packages.

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 25

THE GUIDE ON OUR RADAR splash1 THEBIG

3 2 1 Meyina is an exhibition of work by 4 SA champion bodyboarder Tristan
4 5 Ghanaian artist El Anatsui, renowned for Roberts is the brand ambassador for
creating tapestries using discarded bottle Naked Mexican, a craft beer from Boston
6 tops and said to be Africa’s most expensive Breweries, and a refreshing
artist. It’s the first ever solo exhibition of accompaniment for wherever you’re
26 DECEMBER 2017 his work in South Africa and can be seen at stripping off for the summer. Read more
the Goodman Gallery in Parktown, Joburg about Tristan’s relationship with the ocean
until 20 December. goodman-gallery.com on page 186.

2 Immortal is a live show about a 5 With 25 years in the business and
mansion that’s crazily lost in time – it’s the sales exceeding 30 million albums,
first-ever immersive theatre production of singer-songwriter Brian McKnight recently
its kind in South Africa. Instead of claiming released his 18th album, Genesis. He
your seat and watching, audiences get to appears along with billboard-topping soul
pick and choose how they interact with the songstress, Brandy, in The Legends of
multi-layered story that unfolds. So you R&B at Sun Arena, Time Square, in
step completely into the realm of the story Tshwane on 9 December, at Joburg’s
Ticketpro Dome on the 10th, at GrandWest
and find yourself transported in Cape Town on the 12th, and at the
into a whole new world. Durban ICC on the 14th. bigconcerts.co.za
facebook.com/
ImmortalCapeTown, 6 With millions of holidaymakers hitting
computicket.com the coast this summer, seafood
restaurants will be bulging with eager
3 Mzansi’s funniest customers. Some 312 million kilograms of
MD, Riaad Moosa, will seafood are consumed annually in South
MC a night of rollicking Africa, 70 per cent of which is hake and
stand-up at the Boardwalk sardines, and half caught locally. Not all
Convention Centre in Port fish platters are created equal, though, and
Elizabeth on 9 December. Sharing the the Southern African Sustainable
Kings & Queens of Comedy stage with Seafood Initiative (SASSI) – works in
the good doctor are Joey Rasdien, Loyiso conjunction with the World Wildlife Fund to
Gola, Ntosh Madlingozi, Sifiso Nene, and raise awareness around the importance of
comedy’s unrivalled queen, Tumi Morake. eating only sustainable fish.
blublood.com

kulula.com



THE GUIDE ON OUR RADAR

7 8 For starters, eat only species on Arena at Time Square on the 10th, the
Durban ICC on the 12th, or at Cape Town’s
10 the green list, and think twice Grand Arena, GrandWest, on the 14th.
11 bigconcerts.co.za
about orange-listed seafood. Read
13 11 Emma Kingston plays Eva Peron in a
more about what can be done to eat full-scale, full-throttle production of Evita,
28 DEECMBER 2017 which transfers to Cape Town this month
consciously on page 53. wwfsassi.co.za after six weeks in Joburg. Among the
world’s best-loved musicals, the show is
9 7 ‘Oceanearth’ is one of seven tracks off directed by Broadway legend Hal Prince,
Johnny Clegg’s recently released album, and co-stars Jonathan Roxmouth as the
King of Time. Songs from the album revolutionary Che Guevara. It plays at the
feature along with classic Clegg hits on his Artscape Opera until 7 January.
global Final Journey Tour, currently pietertoerien.co.za
underway. The tour heads to The
Boardwalk ICC in PE on 26–28 January. 12 Award-winning theatre director
computicket.com Elizma Badenhorst has adapted the
Charles Dickens favourite, A Christmas
8 Flee reality with Alan Committie this Carol, into a wondrous family show
month. The intergalactic comedian will be combining animation with live action and
taking audiences on a funnybone-tickling the super-talented Jason Ralph as the
trip to Planet Mirth. Get yourself to impeccably grim, ‘Bah, humbug’-intoning
Theatre on the Bay in Cape Town, grab a Ebenezer Scrooge. The new show is
seat, and watch as the stand-up playing at the Montecasino Studio, Joburg,
merriment unfolds. 5 December–13 until 7 January. pietertoerien.co.za
January, computicket.com
13 Soccer fans can witness Kaizer
9 Down-tempo trip-hop garage duo, Chiefs and Ajax Cape Town duke it out at
FNB Stadium on 16 December. This will be
Maribou State, is in the country this the third of the month’s PSL games for the
Chiefs, who are also playing Chippa United
month, performing at the Castle of Good and Platinum Stars. computicket.com

Hope in Cape Town on 8 December, and at 14 Captivated Pour Homme, with its
gorgeous woody base notes, is one half of
the GoodLuck Bar, Joburg, the following the Shimansky Captivated Perfume
collection – both fragrances come encased
night. Sharing the limelight are in a stylish glass crystal bottle and
together make a great ‘His and Hers’ gift.
progressive dance acts like Felix If you prefer to indulge your beloved to
something that’ll last forever, Shimansky
12 Laband, Christian Tiger School, Nonku has a range of jewellery pieces featuring
Phiri, PHFat, Kidfonque and Durban’s one of this month’s birthstones: tanzanite.
shimansky.com
gqom king, DJ Lag, who you can read
kulula.com
about on page 97. computicket.com

10 One of the world’s most relentless
crooners, Bryan Adams, is back in SA this
month, this time celebrating the release of
his 13th studio album, Get Up!. If you’re
one of those people who can’t help singing
along to ‘Summer of ’69’, then you might
want to consider catching the 58-year-old
Canadian, at either Joburg’s Ticketpro
Dome on 9 December, Tshwane’s Sun

14



REGULARS ON OUR RADAR 16

15 15 One of South theatre director Jaco Bouwer at the helm? Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Supplied
Africa’s best-loved Plus it’s set at the V&A Waterfront, a place
17 storytellers, Gcina of unexpected intrigue. The weekly series
Mhlophe, is among the is available on showmax.com, an online TV
18 luminary figures who’ll be service currently offering free, no-strings-
at the second annual Abantu attached trial subscriptions.
19 Book Festival in Soweto from 7 to 10
20 December. There’ll be poetry and musical 19 Back in the 1980s, Robin Auld was
performances, writing and publishing South Africa’s original surfer-singer-
21 workshops, film screenings, panel songwriter. Following the release of his
discussions and conversations with new single, ‘Mama Afrika’, he’s touring with
30 DECEMBER 2017 authors, and many of the nation’s top Wendy Oldfield this month, performing in
novelists and literary scholars will be in venues along the coast, starting with
attendance. Daytime sessions will be at Stanford on 15 December, and then in
Eyethu Lifestyle Centre, Mofolo, and night Greyton, Jeffrey’s Bay, PE, Cintsa, East
sessions at the Soweto Theatre, Jabulani. London, and finally Stilbaai on the 23rd.
abantubookfestival.co.za They’ll be in Cape Town early in 2018,
starting at Café Roux in Noordhoek on 3
16 Remember Khumba, Triggerfish January. robinauld.co.za
Animation Studio’s hugely successful
feature about a talking zebra with 20 Internationally acclaimed astrologer
problems fitting in because he only has Rod Suskin has written the first
half his stripes? For the first time ever, the astrological forecast book aimed
story has been adapted for the stage and specifically at South Africans. It’s called
the world premier of Khumba On Stage Your Stars: What to Expect in 2018, and
is being performed at the newly-renovated even if you don’t believe in astrological
and relaunched George Arts Theatre from gobbledygook, it’s full of insights and is a
7 to 10 December. georgeartstheatre.co.za fun-filled stocking-stuffer written with
local flavour and practical guidance.
17 Soul Safari is the new album from
The Kiffness, the two-man electro-pop 21 Hilariously dodgy rapper Jack Parow
outfit known for its uplifting dance tunes is back with a new album, Afrika 4
and collaborations with top vocal artists. Beginners. It includes typical Parow-
You can see The Kiffness live over the New esque naughtiness as well as
Year’s Eve period at festivals such as collaborations with the likes of Aewon
Smoking Dragon (in the Drakensberg) and Wolf, Koos Kombuis and the Happy Boys,
Vic Falls Carnival (in Zimbabwe) – read plus skits by young jersey-wearing
about these and other water-themed comedian Schalk Bezuidenhout. The
music events on page 75. album’s already available on digital
platforms and will be on store shelves this
18 TV’s not usually our thing since we’re month. Parow has a string of live
all about getting out and about and appearances, too – aside from Rage events
exploring the world. But Waterfront is an in Plett and J-Bay, he’ll be at the Diaz
exception. Who can resist a show with Strand Hotel in Mossel Bay on New Year’s
Nordic Noir influences and sophisticated Eve. jackparow.co.za

kulula.com



Cape TownCITY SLICKER
The Mother City has had a tough, dry year with increasing
levels of urgency around saving water. The danger of the city
turning into a desert is terrifyingly real, so if you are heading
there this summer, treat each and every drop sparingly –
bathing is out, showers should be super-quick and shared,
and flush the loo only after number two. But, none of that
means you can’t have a little water-friendly fun in Cape Town.

32 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com

HIGH AND DRY THE GUIDE

Soar like an angel

This is literally the greatest view you can have of the Mother City, and with Cape Town Helicopters
you get to experience it in the best choppers in the business. Not only are their newly acquired Airbus
H 120 and 130 choppers super quiet (operating below 86 decibels), but their greener design makes them
the most environmentally-considerate helicopter rides in the country. A variety of scenic flights lift off from the
V&A Waterfront – the Two Oceans tour above the coast and over False Bay is magnificent, but so are trips to the Winelands or to
destinations you might never have considered. Plus, for anyone who really values their vacation time, you can combine a flip across
the Peninsula with a helicopter transfer to Cape Town International Airport in time for your flight home. 021 418 9462,
WhatsApp: 084 766 7777, helicopterscapetown.co.za

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 33

THE GUIDE HIGH AND DRY

Catch a motion picture wave your relationship with it. Aside from the
feature films and short movies showing
The Sea Wolf is an exhilarating film at The Labia from 7 to 10 December,
that follows eight surfers on a two-year there’s a one-off screening on Clifton
journey to the far corners of the globe. (on 2 December), a slide night (the 4th),
Their mission? To seek out some of and ‘Beach Reach’ event in Muizenberg
the world’s most daunting cold water that’ll teach youngsters about ocean
waves. The film is among those that conservation and beach safety.
will be screened in Cape Town as part of wavescapefestival.com
Wavescape, an annual festival designed
to get you thinking about the ocean and

Dine on the docks Ride a new ar t wave

The Yard is a new addition to the Silo In Cape Town, ‘MOCAA’ isn’t some newfangled
District, the revitalised, New York-ified way to order your morning coffee – it’s the place
area around the Zeitz MOCAA and right to go to get your art fix. And one of the most
on the edge of the harbour. Calling itself a important works in the permanent collection of
the new Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art
‘concept store’, it’s a mashup between Africa (aka MOCAA, get it?), is this immersive
a deli, a homeware and food film installation by renowned English artist and filmmaker, Isaac Julien, created in
emporium, and a sit-down 2010. It’s called Ten Thousand Waves, and requires nine double-sided screens onto
bistro with a menu that which various parts of the unfolding story are projected. The whole thing requires a
dips into Oriental, Middle gallery of its own and once you enter, you’re surrounded by captivating sounds and
Eastern, Mediterranean images that tell a tragic 55-minute story. Seeing the rest of the museum deserves at
and Indian cuisines. least a full day – there are over 100 gallery spaces, guided tours, a rooftop sculpture
Coffees are by Woodstock’s garden, and mind-blowing interior architecture. Admission R180, under-18s free,
quality-focused Rosetta and free to all African citizens on Wednesday 10am–1pm, open Wednesday–Monday
Roastery and there’s a bar 10am–6pm, Silo District, V&A Waterfont, zeitzmocaa.museum
doing cocktails – the perfect
Play with predators and penguins
way to recuperate from your sweaty
session in the gym upstairs. The Two Oceans Aquarium has a genuine crowd-pleaser (there’s
Monday–Friday 7:30am–10pm, Saturday–
Sunday 8am–10pm, below Virgin Active,
Silo District, South Arm Road, V&A
Waterfront, 082 945 4686

over 3 000 sea creatures vying for a penguin encounter at 10:45am

your attention – some are seen in the Tuesdays through Sundays – definitely

impressive kelp forest that imitates book), but even the tiniest clownfish and

South Africa’s west coast, and some live anemones can keep curious children

in the gigantic and recently upgraded enthralled for hours. Daily 9:30am–6pm,

two million litre predator tank, which is between New Basin and Dock

where braver souls (with diving licences) Road, V&A Waterfront,

can jump in with ragged-tooth 021 418 3823,

sharks. The penguins are aquarium.co.za

34 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com





HIGH AND DRY THE GUIDE

Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: Cape Town Helicopters, hadanello88/shutterstock.com, Natalia Piacheva/shutterstock.com, Take the planet back Flip the bird courtyard laneway
hchjjl/shutterstock.com, Olga Tropinina/shutterstock.com, Vectorcarrot/shutterstock.com, Supplied of Shortmarket
The world-touring Transformers Eating the untoned flesh of chickens Street, with tables
Animatronics Exhibition is a that have been cooped up all their lives outside and a
larger-than-life display of Autobot is ridiculous and unnecessary. Inspired gorgeous rough hewn,
and Decepticon sculptures built from by the fact that 2017 is the Year of the raw brick interior, the
wrecked vehicles and recycled metal Rooster, Cape Town’s newest mono-menu restaurant also has a full-
and other junk. The exhibition has restaurant, Roast & Co., is dedicated to blown, hugely amenable bar with a
spent most of the year in Gauteng, serving sustainably-reared farm-to-table serious cocktail menu. Monday–Saturday
and has now been deployed in Cape chicken. The free-range birds are prepared noon–midnight, 98 Shortmarket Street,
Town. Displayed against large scale rotisserie-style in a range of flavours roastandco.co.za
imagery replicating the Transformers’ with a particular nod to homegrown
fictional homeworld planet of favourites. Set on the joyously sociable
Cybertron, the sculptures are up to
11m tall and include Optimus Prime
and Bumblebee, plus the latest Dino
Bots and – for fans of the pre-school
series – Rescue Bots. Children R89,
adults R99, until 21 January, Grand
West, transformersafrica.com,
webtickets.co.za

Swim with the (digital) fishes

An interactive exhibition showcasing a variety of
cool tech-based activities for children, Future Park
was developed by a team of postgraduates at Tokyo
University. Their form of ‘ultra-technology’ aims to
blur distinctions between art and science, technology
and creativity, learning and playing. The digital
playground includes activities such as a ‘sketch town’
where children can draw a car and then watch it come
to life and drive around in a virtual town. Scanners
and sensors are used to give children’s drawings a
digital life – so they can draw a fish in the ‘sketch
aquarium’ and then watch it swim around on a
floor-to-ceiling digital screen. Daily 10am–7pm,
R130 per child, Workshop17, V&A Waterfront, until
31 January, futureparksa.co.za

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 37



NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH THE GUIDE

WHERE fGiondbufnadlluinbgawshaitnegr and

fallsWATER Krantzkloof Nature Reserve is not five
minutes from the centre of Waterfall and
For decades, it’s been little more than a funny little encompasses the impressive Kloof Gorge
area somewhere between Hillcrest and Kloof. Now (which effectively separates Waterfall
Waterfall, a country suburb some 30km north-west of from neighbouring Kloof), not to mention
Durban, is emerging as a destination in its own right. the smaller Nkutu Gorge, plus loads of
little kloofs and nine major waterfalls.
You’d need a couple of weekends to hike
every trail, and there’s also good rock
climbing and picnic sites, as well as 50
mammal, 253 bird and 35 reptile species
– not bad considering it’s in the middle of
suburbia. 033 845 1000, kknr.org.za

Ssutebeurrabacnoujrusneglfeor the Feast with free-flowing beer and wine and gin

Sandwiched between Inanda Dam and Kloof Set within the confines of the affluent Cotswold Downs golf and lifestyle estate, The
Gorge, Waterfall has always had a slightly Kitchen is a modern gastro-pub serving comfort food with a slight twist – think beef short
wild vibe – big gardens, loads of birdlife ribs and wild mushrooms braised in Guinness with parsley mash. Hearty stuff indeed, and
and (before all the land under sugarcane the pizzas are wildly popular. It’s the kind of place that manages to be casual enough for a
was turned into housing developments) quick bite, but order a starter and a good bottle of red and you’re set to celebrate a special
a real sense of space. Until recently occasion. Aside from local craft beers and wines, they also have gin and tonic on tap, so
there was very little to do in Waterfall, you’re unlikely to go thirsty. 031 762 3890, cotswolddowns.co.za/kitchen
other than wonder where the waterfalls
were. Mushrooming residential estates
have brought with them schools, malls,
a world-class golf course and – surely,
the mark of any swanky neighbourhood –
decent coffee. And although it’s been
transformed from a far-flung one-horse
town into a moneyed suburb, it’s still
surrounded by bush, making it a lovely leafy
alternative to the city and beaches.

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 39

THE GUIDE NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH

Putter along under steam power

The Umgeni Steam Railway is a volunteer organisation which operates the
Inchanga Choo Choo – a train ride from Kloof to Inchanga in the Valley of 1000 Hills,
drawn by a gracious old steam locomotive. Trips normally run on the last Sunday of
every month, but December is a bumper season, with regular runs for the last two
weeks of the year. The Carols by Candlelight evening rides are particularly wonderful,
and also very popular, so book soon if you’re keen to ride and sing beneath the stars.
082 353 6003, umgenisteamrailway.com

Sleep near a bur bling brook Tabsater isatcah’sambrpeiwon Words: Will Edgcumbe, Pictures: Danussa/shutterstock.com,
Anthony Blackman, Durban Tourism, Graham Gillett/GMG Photography
Popular with wedding parties, The Proving that great coffee can
du Boirs is a boutique lodge with ten exist in a mall, Lineage Coffee
individually decorated, fully-kitted rooms is about coffee as a real craft.
overlooking lovingly manicured gardens. Headed up by 2013 South
The pretty Nkutu River runs along the African Barista Champion,
bottom of the property, its shallow Craig Charity, the coffee is
burbling belying the fact that not far superb, and you needn’t be a
downriver it’s carved out an impressive hipster to ask for an alternative
gorge; the lush gardens are popular with
locals for picnics on Sundays, with a laden non-espresso format brew, such
gourmet basket supplied – booking is as a v60 pour over. Shop UG67,
essential. R1 500 per couple, per night, Watercrest Mall, 031 035 0872,
including breakfast, 198 Inanda Road, 031 lineagecoffee.com
776 3159, theduboirs.co.za
Epalatnwetitihn mthiend

In an iconic old building known as ‘The
Castle’ in Hillcrest, Conscious Café is
arguably the best vegan and vegetarian
joint in greater Durban. Open for
breakfast, lunch and coffee, they serve
up more falafel, tahini and halloumi than
you can wave a carrot at. You can also
dip into services such as tarot readings,
tattoos and Djembe drumming lessons.
24B Old Main Road, Gillitts, 031 765 2662,
facebook.com/ConsciousCafeHillcrest

40 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com





REST ASSURED THE GUIDE

H2Ohhh
From seaside suites
to cabins overlooking
waterholes in the
desert, here’s our
pick of places to stay
where water is never
far away.

UMNGAZI RIVER BUNGALOWS & SPA, WILD COAST

A land before time, largely untamed, coastal vegetation, it overlooks

and miraculously unaffected by an estuary and beach, with

modernity, the Wild Coast is our most boats for hire, and river trips and

dramatic seaside strip – an extreme water skiing on offer. Its thatched

paradise of rolling hills, milkwood forests, bungalows have outdoor showers

and craggy cliffs battered by fearsome – the best are the hillside Ntabeni

waves. At night, unpolluted skies twinkle suites, with dramatic river and sea views.

with billions of stars – plus a silence that If all the chilling and tanning proves too

stirs the soul. Beachcombers can go for stressful, you can have your muscles

hours without bumping into anything soothed at the spa (see page 201 for

other than whalebones, driftwood, and more on this). And although it’s well-

the odd sunbathing cow. Or, if you want geared to entertain youngsters, there are

to sample the Wild Coast’s pleasures plenty of nooks (and privately-located

without roughing it at all, you can check honeymoon bungalows) where it's

in at this charming family resort on the possible for romance-seekers to remain

Umngazi River mouth. Set within its own blissfully unaware of the pitter-patter of

nature reserve and flanked by dense little feet. umngazi.co.za

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 43

THE GUIDE REST ASSURED

TINTSWALO ATLANTIC, STRANDLOPER OCEAN
CAPE TOWN LODGE, PATERNOSTER

Perched very literally at the ocean’s edge directly below Chapman’s Peak Drive, this Nowhere is the Cape’s traditional West
tucked away retreat offers beautiful fynbos-covered slopes on one side and the crash Coast village ambience better preserved
and roar of ocean on the other. If the permanent refrain of sloshing waves doesn’t get than in the whitewashed fishing hamlet of
you, the smell of salty sea mist and spray surely will. Its suites, named and styled to Paternoster. Waves of gentrification have
reflect the personality of different islands, hover above the rocks just metres from the brought a degree of sophistication, without
water. While you sprawl out on your balcony, hypnotised by the lulling effects of the denuding it of small-town character (or
shimmering ocean, you can watch little boats putter around Hout Bay’s harbour, ponder characters). Wooden boats dot the beach,
the rocky silhouette of The Sentinel guarding the entrance to the bay in the distance, and when the wind blows, it feels stark,
and observe clouds drift in and out of focus as the sun slowly dips towards the Atlantic’s empty and melancholic. Ghostly,
surface. To sustain the drama, keep your balcony doors wide open at bedtime – that way, even. Rent a renovated
a ceaseless chorus of loud, insistent waves will penetrate your dreams. fisherman’s cottage, or
tintswalo.com/atlantic opt for the relative
decadence of this
THONGA BEACH LODGE, NORTHERN KZN very handsome
seaside hotel
Sublime beaches and coastal forest define some of the most remote and lovely which has 13
parts of KwaZulu-Natal. Much of the region is off the grid, with a vast marine reserve rooms done out
protecting the dune forest, beaches, coral reefs, and aquatic life. At Mabibi – a beach in a contemporary
that stretches, unspoiled, for 40 km in the northernmost reaches of iSimangaliso beach style. It’s just
Wetland Park – Thonga affords a kind of sophisticated castaway experience with large, steps from the shore,
luxurious thatched suites overlooking the ocean from a high vantage. Venture down, and rooms have outdoor
and there’s reef snorkelling, scuba diving, boat trips, and a cocktail bar on the beach. showers and private terraces – ideal for
Guides take guests on early morning kayaking trips on nearby Lake Sibaya, where you effortlessly spotting dolphins and whales.
can spot wallowing hippos as you go. And during turtle nesting season (happening If you’re feeling more active, though, you
right now), there are excursions to witness one of nature’s most remarkable miracles, can walk along the beach all the way to
when loggerheads and leatherbacks return to these shores to lay their eggs at Cape Columbine Nature Reserve and its
the very spot where they themselves were hatched (turn lighthouse, surveying the guano-strewn
to page 156 for more about Mzansi’s precious boulders around pretty coves as you go.
turtles). thongabeachlodge.co.za Or join a kayak tour and paddle across the
bay for close-ups of all kinds of marine life.
strandloperocean.com

44 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com

REST ASSURED THE GUIDE

MHONDORO GAME LODGE, LIMPOPO

Set in malaria-free Welgevonden Game Reserve, less than three hours from Joburg,
Mhondoro is a sublime escape where you can mix morning game drives with
afternoons watching animals at a water hole from the protection of an underground
hide that’s connected to the lodge by means of a 65-metre-long concrete tunnel. It’s
the first of its kind in South Africa. Then, when the sun goes down and the sky fills
with twinkling lights, the specially-designed ‘Star Deck’ is perfect for staring up into
the endlessness of the cosmos. mhondoro.com

DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE, OVERBERG

Any half-decent beachbum will instantly fall in love with De Hoop and its peace and
solitude – it’s surely among the most beautiful stretches of coast on earth (and a far
more pristine and tranquil alternative to nearby Arniston). Some 51 km of white cotton-
soft dunes, rock pools, wetlands, coastal fynbos and limestone cliffs are protected
here, along with antelope, zebra, and over 260 bird species. Accommodations run from
rondawels to luxe cottages; bring something to throw on the braai and settle in for the
long haul – you’re going to have a hard time leaving. dehoopcollection.co.za

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 45



REST ASSURED THE GUIDE

ANEW HOTEL INGELI FOREST AND THE TURBINE BOUTIQUE
SPA, KOKSTAD HOTEL & SPA, KNYSNA

It’s green here. Always so thrillingly green. Lush, iridescent, ‘Letting off steam’ takes on a new meaning
rain-soaked green. In part, this permanent radiance is this groovy little hotel on Thesen Island.
thanks to the mist belt that enfolds the foot of the Ingeli The one-time power station, which
Mountains where this charming little family resort is located. used lagoon water and waste wood
It’s also responsible for the indigenous forests that sprawl across from logging operations to produce
the surrounding hills, and why tree plantations and farms thrive here. Ingeli’s lowkey, steam-powered electricity for the area,
laidback, child-friendly atmosphere harks back to old-fashioned family getaways. It has been craftily renovated into one
has tennis courts and table tennis, splash pools and playgrounds for youngsters, and of the country’s more unusual hotels.
a spa for stressed adults. More adventure-minded types come to test their mettle, The original machinery and all kinds of
cycling and running on mountain trails. Well-marked MTB routes stretch for up to monstrous metal contraptions looming
30 km, with a mix of tricky forest rides, testy switchbacks, streams that need to be throughout the interior ensure that it has
forded, and some adrenaline-spiking stretches interspersed with scenic rolling hills. real industrial character, albeit quite chic
The forest is magical – it’s quite beautiful the way the dense canopy all but blots out and saturated with colour that makes it
the sky, and there are buck and rarer birds such as Cape parrots and Narina trogons look a bit like a pop art gallery. There’s
to see. If biking and running is too much effort, hike to the dam and settle in for a nothing industrial about the food or the
picnic. Situated just off the N2 between Harding and Kokstad, Ingeli is a mere hour service, either, with the Island Café offering
from the coastal towns of Port Shepstone and Margate, and even closer to Oribi adventure-fuelling meals supported by
Gorge, where there’s a host of activities, from ziplining to white water rafting. Or, if a robust wine list, and there’s the Gastro
you’re aiming to simply chill out, Ingeli’s gardens and cosy lounges and long veranda Pub with its more down-to-earth selection
are all decent spaces to curl up with a soul-restoring book and an imaginary ‘DO NOT of craft beer and tapas – plus sweeping
DISTURB’ sign around your neck. anewhotels.com views of the lagoon. Water-based activities
include sunset booze cruises on the hotel’s
pontoon barge, leisurely kayaking through
the island’s canal network, or more
thrilling paddling trips to the mouth of the
lagoon for a peek at the towering Heads.
turbinehotel.co.za

kulula.com DECEMBER 2017 47

THE GUIDE REST ASSURED

KOSI FOREST LODGE, NORTHERN KZN Words: Keith Bain, Trevor Crighton, Pictures: Supplied

Head as far north up the coast as you can go before hitting Mozambique, and
you’re within Kosi Bay Nature Reserve, where this lodge is just the sort of place to drop
anchor for a few blissful days while you hole up in wooden cabins floating on stilts in the
forest. There’s a great sense of being in a place untouched by modernity, one that’s too
far-flung for the crowds. Days are spent unwinding on hammocks or drifting through
the nearby estuary. Even in your canoe, things are effortless: Your guide paddles through
the placid waters while you keep watch for rare palm nut vultures and spot crocodiles
slinking into the water. This region, known as Maputaland, is steeped in a history that
reveals itself in the handwoven basket-style fish traps set in the estuary by the Batonga
people, just as they’ve done for 700 years. kosiforestlodge.co.za

!XHAUS LODGE, KALAHARI

In the Kgalagadi, far from the crowds, in
a desolate land of saltpans and wide-
open nothingness, amidst rust-red

sandveld dunes, find refuge and
comfort at !Xaus Lodge where
twelve self-catering cabins are
arranged on an embankment
above a large watering hole that
often looks like a dry patch of
baked clay. You can spend time
with San trackers searching for

desert-dwellers like big-maned
‘Kalahari’ lions, cheetah, oryx, and
elephant. And, at night, hear the call of
jackals and hyenas screaming and geckos
making weird barking sounds as you
stare up at the galaxies, shimmering with
innumerable stars. xauslodge.co.za

48 DECEMBER 2017 kulula.com