Khuluma November 2017

BACKSTAGE THE GUIDE

T o her critics, she was 1978 they transformed their rousing songs MAKING SEEMINGLY
Mussolini in a Dior dress. into a full-scale theatre production layered SEAMLESS SCENES
To her enemies, she was a with acerbic political commentary. With
trashy opportunist, grasping greedily for the help of legendary Broadway director, ‘Evita is a rock opera,’ says Anton
the power and luxury that an illegitimate Hal Prince, it went on to critical acclaim on Luitingh of the unique challenges
peasant girl from the Pampas had no right the West End and on Broadway. presented by this particular musical. ‘It
to. But, to her admirers she was a blonde essentially means that it’s sung through
saint – ‘the spiritual leader of the nation’ – Now, fresh off its latest season on the from beginning to end – there are no
who devoted her short life to helping the West End, the show has been revived scenes with dialogue. is is a unique
poor and campaigning for female suffrage locally with a full cast, headed by English challenge on its own, but one of the
in a country where women were regarded actress Emma Kingston (as Evita) and larger challenges facing a director on
as chattel. local stars, Jonathan Roxmouth (as Che Evita in particular, is nding ways in
Guevara, the revolutionary-narrator) and which to segue or seamlessly transition
A mesmerising mix of youth, bottle- Robert Finlayson (as Juan Perón, the from intimate scenes involving one
blonde beauty and passionate political president of Argentina). or two actors, and scenes involving
ambition, Maria Eva Duarte de Perón the entire company. ere’s a scene in
– nicknamed Evita – seduced a nation as Kingston has performed in many of the Act One, for example, where Eva and
the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 world’s most popular musicals including Perón are in bed engaged in a post-
until 1952 and changed it forever, only to Les Miserables, Fiddler on the Roof and In coital political discussion while sharing
die tragically young from cancer at 32. the Heights, thanks to her powerful voice a cigarette – and seconds later the
One of the 20th century’s most powerful and accomplished acting. score demands that we’re in the middle
women, her greatest fear was that she’d of an intense revolutionary march with
be forgotten. It’s ironic that, having failed But the coveted role didn’t just land in her thousands of people responding to an
to become an actress as she intended, lap, she says. ‘My mother is Argentinean, impassioned speech that Eva herself
she achieved immortality as the subject of so Evita has always been a dream role. is making. e score is continuous,
such a hugely impactful musical. I was unable to make the auditions, so I so we can’t interrupt the music to
hired a pianist and sent a recording of the change the set – instead, the director
British musical theatre duo Andrew Evita songs to the casting directors instead. must conceive a visual solution that
Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice first turned When I got the call from my agent saying works and makes it look seamless and
Evita’s divisive legend into a 1976 rock I’d landed the role, I fell to the floor in tears magical. is is where one quickly
opera concept album. Its sweeping lead in the middle of a theatre!’ learns just how ingenious Hal Prince’s
track Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina, instantly staging is.’
topped the charts and the album went Roxmouth, whose velvet voice has
platinum. Encouraged by this success, in wowed audiences in numerous musicals,
admits both he and Kingston have their
work cut out for them. Evita’s score is

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 49

THE GUIDE BACKSTAGE

incredibly complex, he says, and requires 'With so many imagery. But the real coup is that Hal
serious vocal stamina. ‘It’s a deceptively political clowns in Prince is overseeing our production.’
simple production as it’s very stripped the world right now,
down with a pared-down set, but it’s the show couldn’t ‘I’m absolutely thrilled to be directing
incredibly hard to pull off seamlessly. be more apt.' this original production of Evita,’ said Prince
There is so much more pressure on from his home in the US, in anticipation
the actors to perform as the music is The opulent costume designs are of adding his magical touch to the show.
continuous and the set is minimal. You’ve absolutely faithful to the original Tony ‘I believe it’s Andrew and Tim’s finest
got to move the story along by song.’ award-winning team, says Anton Luitingh, work.’ Having Prince on board is rather an
the show’s resident director, responsible immense honour for local theatre – the
Roxmouth may not have trouble with the for keeping the show on track throughout man has received 21 Tony Awards in his
singing, but he’s nervous about the dancing, its run, including when it departs SA for a seven-decade career.
he admits. ‘I’m not a dancer at all, so I’ll global tour. ‘The glamorous dresses, wigs
just have to lean against a corner of the and shoes are true to the 1940s, not to But what of Evita’s relevance today?
stage and glower sardonically if I run into mention the tapestries and other lavish Luitingh says none of the show’s key
any trouble – that’s the great thing about themes have diminished in value since
playing Che who spends a lot of his time it was first staged four decades ago.
staring cynically at the audience,’ he laughs. ‘Audiences will definitely identify with the
issues raised by the narrative: corruption,
Impressive cast aside, no expense has scandal, power-hungry politicians, the
been spared to make sure the production desire for power, and the never-ending
lives up to Prince’s expectations – the battle for control between the haves and
89-year-old is once again at the helm. have-nots.
‘We’ve spent over R50 million to ensure
that audiences are transported into ‘At the start of the show,’ he adds, ‘the
the world of one of the century’s most narrator – Che Guevara – sings: “Oh what
beguiling figures,’ says Pieter Toerien, the a circus, oh what a show”. He’s referring
show’s producer. ‘All sets and costumes to the fine line between politics and
have been manufactured to the highest entertainment. With so many political
specifications in the UK and flown in.’ clowns in play in the world right now,
this show couldn’t be more apt.’

6 THINGS YOU MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT EVITA Pictures: art-sonik/shutterstock.com, Ron Dale/shutterstock.com, Supplied

1 In her early teens, Eva Perón 3 Madonna was forced to wear 5 ree million mourners reportedly
le her village in the Pampas for brown contacts during the lming attended her funeral in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires to pursue her dream of Evita, as Eva had brown eyes. – eight people died in the crush to see
of becoming an actress. Her acting Unfortunately, Madonna could hardly her co n and 2 000 were injured.
was reportedly sub-par but she achieved see through them and they made her
resounding success as a radio actress dizzy and nauseous – not ideal! 6 Evita’s medical records show
and show host. she had a prefrontal lobotomy a
4 Eva’s e orts helped gain su rage month before she died. Ostensibly it
2 Eva met Juan Perón, an army for women in 1947, and in 1951 was to control her pain, but in 2015,
colonel and the Minister of Labour, Argentinean women voted for the rst time evidence was found that it was
at a fundraising gala – she was in her in a national election. She intended running ordered by Juan Perón to control her
mid-20s and he was in his late forties for vice president, but her plans were thwarted increasingly violent behaviour and
when they married in 1945. when she was diagnosed with cancer. silence her to prevent a civil war!

50 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com





THE BIG PICTURE THE GUIDE

Stunt double Madcap,
high-flying
NOT INCLUDED craziness in
Give Me Five.
Providing virtual travel to some
of the most dynamic and thrilling
destinations on earth, the world’s most
adventuresome film festival is back.

W ith screenings in five cities Scottish
across SA this year, the Banff trail bike
International Mountain legend, Danny
MacAskill, in Wee
Film Festival takes viewers from the Day Out.
snow-laden slopes of Siberia to the
canyonlands of Utah, and from the desert
plains of Patagonia to the icy surf spots of
Iceland. Beautifully captured in vivid, often
hair-raisingly intimate detail, these films
span the gamut of adrenaline sports and
thrilling-seeking adventure, from surfing
in impossible locations and skiing under
incredible circumstances, to bouldering
on ridiculous rock faces and trail running
through scenes of phenomenal beauty.

In addition to the 11 films that are
part of the international festival, local
audiences will see Dewald Brand’s One Fly
at a Time, this year’s winning submission
from the annual Cape Union Mart
Adventure Film Challenge.

As always, the festival celebrates
those ardent extremists who achieve
adventures most of us can hardly imagine
possible. In Give Me Five, we get a taste
of what a madcap mob of French

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 53

THE GUIDE THE BIG PICTURE

Tackling Poumaka, bouldering champion Angie
an elusive Payne sets off into the French Polynesian
rock tower in jungle with veteran climber-explorer
Poumaka. Mike Libecki, in hopes of summiting the

legendarily elusive Poumaka Tower on Ua

Pou island near Tahiti.

For visual beauty alone, The Accord will

give you a jolt as it marvellously captures

what it’s like being a surfer in Iceland, a

freefalling flyers experience during their harsh, hardening environment where the

attempts to perform an insane aerial key to finding manageable waves involves

stunt in the Chamonix Valley. And in dodging the punishing effects of the

Rocking a Metronomic, we witness the beautiful horrendously moody North Atlantic wind.
high-altitude
symphony in mayhem that unfolds when a bunch And in Young Guns, you’ll see a pair
Metronomic.
of crazy-ass musicians combine their of climbers in their early teens pushed
Freeskiing
at its most talents to perform a wild symphony while to the edge as they tackle some of the
fearless in Ruin
and Rose. rock-climbing, hanging, balancing and world’s toughest rock faces. Ruin and

swinging in a high-altitude location above Rose, meanwhile, takes you on a global

the Verdon Gorge, one tour as you watch fearless freeskiers

of Europe’s most The testing their mettle against
beautiful river annual Banff extreme jumps in breathtaking
canyons. In International Mountain

Film Festival lands in SA this locations in Alaska, Bulgaria

month, with screenings of 11 short, and France, California,
electrifying outdoor adventure movies. Switzerland and Namibia.
It’ll be at Ster Kinekor cinemas in Cape
Town at Cavendish Square and Tygervalley And if that sounds like

Centre, Sandton City in Joburg, and too much adrenaline in a
Pretoria’s Brooklyn Mall, from 3 to 12 single sitting, there are a
November; in Durban at Gateway on couple of more laid-back

10–11 November; and at Baywest,

PE, on 11 November. mountain tales, such as Ace and
sterkinekor.com the Desert Dog which charmingly

follows an adventure photographer on

a 60-day backpacking trip through the Utah Words: Keith Bain, Pictures: robuart/shutterstock.com, supplied

desert with his dog, Genghis Khan.

54 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com



THE GUIDE READ BETWEEN THE LINES

about how to live better with them all.

I spent lots of research and thinking

time on this subject, which is close to

my heart. Are horses dumb draught

animals or creatures of superior spirit?

It depends who you ask. But Zulu did

AROUND learn amazing bush smarts during his
time running wild and this forms a

major theme of the book.

Author David Bristow tells us about Running Wild, There is something perplexingly
his new book about a horse that braved the wilds of alluring about horses. If this were not
the case, we would simply have eaten
Botswana and for a time became a zebra. them all when the internal combustion

engine become popular. But I knew I had

to get more deeply into this and, being

In truth there’s never been much of a about every giant of Africa – baobabs the wordy kind, I took my first cues from

special relationship between myself and and mashatu trees, elephants and lions, literature – Tennyson’s ‘The Charge of the

horses. My first ride (on a dude ranch north giraffes and eland, mambas and pythons, Light Brigade’, the ride of Dick King (who

of Joburg) ended in tears. But I grew up in ostriches and kori bustards, is an ancestor of mine,

what was dubbed the ‘mink and manure’ giant stick insects and African by the way), War Horse.

belt, when the area now known as Sandton bull frogs. But, even though it Why will horses ride into

had 40 000 horses and 2 000 people, so is bordered by two large rivers the jaws of death, into

there were always horses around us. (the Limpopo and the Shashe), the mouth of hell, if their

I first visited Mashatu Game Reserve it is a semi-desert where at rider asks them to? So I

as a travel journalist, and got to know the times it becomes very tough read and I read, and I went Interview: Keith Bain, Pictures: Sarel/shutterstock.com, oksanka007/shutterstock.com, Supplied

owner of the horse safari business where indeed for wild creatures and rode horse safaris,

Zulu lived. As a mountain biker I later and humans alike. It is in and – by and by – I guess

befriended Mashatu’s MD, David Evans, the larger Northern Tuli I became something of

who gave me the bare facts about Zulu area, ‘tuli’ meaning dust. a horse aficionado.

following ‘the big storm’ – he then spent It is as wild and wonderful Before his adventure

some considerable time nagging me to a corner of Africa as you no-one thought of Zulu as

write Zulu’s story. could wish to find. Published by anything special. I did meet
Mashatu is sometimes referred to as We have a lot to learn Jacana, David Bristow’s him in the days before
the ‘land of giants’ as it is home to just from animals and
Running Wild tells the tale the storm and before

of Zulu, a riding horse based on he went running wild,
a game reserve in Botswana, who and took very little
fled into the wilds during a massive

flood in 2000. Years later, Zulu was notice of him. This is

discovered – healthy and happy – perhaps central to the
having become the stallion to a book – that he was a

herd of wild zebras.

nobody until he became

something extraordinary.

The mere fact that he established

himself as the alpha stallion of a wild

zebra herd is astonishing, something that

has never been seen before.

56 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com





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TRAVEL PLAYING THE WORLD

KRIJAY’S

Wanderlust
On top of her stand-up shows and busy schedule as a television
director, Krijay Govender is a world-class global explorer. When
she’s not touching down in Turkey for MC gigs, she’s touring the
USA with her husband to celebrate their anniversary. We asked
the actress, comedienne and part-time Mad Hatter to share her
travel wisdom with us.

60 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com















TRAVEL GOOD CLEAN FUN

junURBgANlgeyms
Where to play
in the concrete
jungle

68 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com

GOOD CLEAN FUN TRAVEL

Pictures: xxxxxxx FIND ME UNDER THE
BRIDGE

In an unprecedented social policy
turnaround a few years back,
Gardens’ once-dodgy Jutland
Avenue Bridge underpass
underwent a happy transformation.
Cape Town, a city that had always
frowned upon skateboarding, got
involved with the development of
the CBD’s first public playground
for skaters: Gardens Skate Park.
Rolled out as one of the city’s
official World Design Capital
projects, the plans had already
earned global recognition in 2013
by winning PLAYscapes, a design
competition focused on innovative
and sustainable architectural
solutions for converting derelict
areas into recreational spaces.
In a novel twist for city-managed
building projects, Spyda Ramps’
Clive Croften consulted with local
skaters on what elements to
include in his design. The resulting
fencing-protected park includes
a pipe jam, air wedges and other

obstacles for trick skaters
and is designed to
be used by novice
and experienced
skaters as well
as rollerbladers
and BMXers.
Seen in action
here is Red Bull
skateboarder,
Moses Adams,
one of the best in
the country (photo by
Craig Kolesky/Red Bull

Content Pool).

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 69

TRAVEL GOOD CLEAN FUN LIVE OUT THOSE RACING DREAMS

PARKOUR FOR ORDINARY So, you’ve been watching professional track racing and running
PEOPLE a fantasy ego trip through your head: ‘I could do that,’ your head
says. ‘All I need to do is push the pedal flat and point my car in the
What is an obstacle course other than a right direction.’ If only it was that easy! Go-karting is life’s way of
big playground with a mission? And with bringing mere mortals engaged in this particular line of thinking
time limits, pulled hamstrings and a bit right back down to earth. Superkart Racing in Sandton has a
of exhaustion thrown in. Still, playground, 230m track comprising fast straights and technical hairpins – take
right? The Jump City Challenge turns a spin and you soon discover that you need to get your racing lines
our cities and their landmarks into an right or be prepared to eat dust. From a 5-minute dash around
obstacle course – through, over and the track to a 90-minute endurance race, you’ll soon find out why
inside stadiums, office parks and really go-karts have been the breeding ground for many F1 drivers. And,
any building with features that can be once you’ve raced a mere 10 or 15 laps, the pain in your forearms
turned into challenging obstacles. Set will remind you once again that you are indeed mortal.
over 8km or so, each course features at Oriental City, 9th Avenue, Rivonia, 011 027 7033, superkart.co.za
least 22 obstacles of varying difficulty,
though you don’t need to be a triathlete to I BELIEVE I CAN FLY
complete the course – you just need some
grit and a sense of adventure. It’s kind of One trampoline is fun. Two is a party.
like a night-time tour of your city, except But 40 interconnected trampolines?
you can’t catch your breath and there’s That’s a physics-defying nirvana. And
all these bruises you don’t remember that’s what you get at the Gravity
getting. Events are held in Joburg and Indoor Trampoline Park in PE. Plus
Durbs every couple of months – the KZN there’s a foam pit (aka the one place
Stadium Dash happens on 25 November. where gravity has no consequences),
jumpcitychallenge.com a dodgeball arena and a basketball
slam dunk area – which all adds up
70 NOVEMBER 2017 to many breathless good times to
be had. Spend a bit of time jumping
around, and you’ll quickly realise
what good exercise it is. You
can even join dedicated
30-minute fitness
classes for a
low-impact,
fun workout.
6 Roshan Street,
Framesby,
Port Elizabeth,
041 360 2883,
gravitype.co.za

kulula.com





"If you have wheels, GOOD CLEAN FUN TRAVEL
you’re welcome."
HOT WHEELS
FEEL THE BURN… AND
THE STING Skateboarding can be pretty weather
dependent, and if you’re in the Cape that
You might talk a good game about can mean killer winters and blazing hot
all the enemies you’ve downed in summers that aren’t particularly kind
Call of Duty, but can you bring those to skaters. Thanks be to The Shred, an
video game skills into the real world? indoor skatepark with more than 600
Paintball Pyrozone on the Cape square metres of skateable terrain in
West Coast will help you find out. The Cape Town’s Paarden Eiland – it features
‘zone’ has speedball and bushball just about every permutation of ramp,
environments for the casual player, ledge, curb or pipe you could want.
but you can up the ante by playing The park doesn’t discriminate against
full military simulations. Five minutes non-skaters either – if you have wheels,
of crouching behind oil drums and you’re welcome. Tuesday evenings are
wooden pallets will quickly let you rollerblading night, Wednesday evenings
know if you’re cut out for active are skate night and Thursday evenings are
warfare – you’ll soon be asking yourself BMX night. Currently there isn’t a night for
that pressing question: ‘Am I more hula-hooping.
concerned about capturing the flag or 68 Auckland Street, Paarden Eiland, 021
about my burning thighs and getting 510 2918, theshred.co.za
shot in the head?’
6 Robben Road, Melkbosstrand, 021 NOVEMBER 2017 73
801 3727, paintballpyrozone.co.za

kulula.com

TRAVEL GOOD CLEAN FUN

SKATE OR DIE!

Believe it or not, but Kimberley’s Kumba Skate Plaza is considered by many to be one of the
best skateparks in the world, having received a huge boost of capital when it was built to host
the Maloof Money Cup, which then became the Kimberley Diamond Cup, and drew the
best skateboarders on the planet to compete in the Northern Cape. ‘Everything’s done
to a dauntingly high international spec,’ says Andrew Nero, founder of online skating
forum, Africa Skate. ‘It’s absolutely dead smooth, perfectly level, and incredibly hard so
it doesn’t chip. The black granite ledges are inches thick and the vertical ramp is 50m
wide and 14 feet high with 16 foot extensions. Dropping in is the most insane feeling
imaginable. It has an extremely high density surface called Skatelite which is conducive
to sliding out better so you don’t burn yourself as much as you do on Masonite.'
Waterloo Road, West End, Kimberley

UP IN THE AIR Words: Will Edgcumbe, Keith Bain; Pictures: Craig Kolesky/Red Bull Content Pool, Supplied

The tallest swing of its kind in the world, the Big Rush Big Swing is pretty
wild. It requires you to climb up the iconic arch of Moses Mabhida Stadium (a
feat of bravery itself), and then leap into the abyss above the football pitch for
a 60m freefall at 120km/h and an overall 220m swinging arc. As an added
bonus, a grateful local will buy you dinner if you manage to take down a
hadeda ibis while you’re in mid-air and finally cease the 4am chorus outside
his bedroom window.
44 Isaiah Ntshangase Road, 031 312 9281, bigrush.co.za

THE ART OF BRUISING

Every wondered what you’d look like after
being punched by an octopus? Paintball has
you covered, and at The Woods Paintball in
Fourways you’ll have fun earning each bruise.
The four fields and a shooting range are set in a
pine forest littered with tactical structures, so
whether you’re a fan of turtling or are a pain-
fuelled berserker, there’s a field to suit you.
Riversands Commercial Park, Fourways,
079 387 4217, woodspaintball.co.za

74 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com





BARRELS AND BREAKS TRAVEL

WHEN CoianfrMtlahzeHainrüsqsius’seefslimtnefaosnrtntwhjioenienpmseraafkefeecrwtsbarrel.

playWINEMAKERS

pictures: xxxxxxx
Illustration: Wynand Lens

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 77

I t’s been a rough week again, 'We’d get these endless invitations to
juggling the constant demands of golf days hosted by these big supply
two award-winning wineries. Today companies, but we just don’t play golf.’
isn’t looking any kinder: a morning of -Miles Mossop
high-drama with huge take-offs on thick-
lipped 10-foot waves, epic long rides and as he fights his way through the strong
spectacular wipeouts has seen many a rip current that’s already swept unlucky
board, leash and fin sacrificed to capricious contestants from the point all the way
Mother Nature. Some of the contestants down to the lighthouse. His lungs almost
are already deep into their second bottle burst as he duck dives expertly under
of wine, possibly to soothe their battered the hairy waves, but then he’s through,
egos and warm their freezing limbs, but saltwater burning his eyes as he heads for
probably because it would be out of place the backline.
if they weren’t.
He knows today isn’t about pulling off
As the drizzle intensifies and Miles any fancy moves – he just needs to make
Mossop launches himself off Stilbaai’s two waves and he’ll be in contention to
point into the surging ocean, everything win the fondly-named ‘Ballies’ division. As
but the moment he’s caught in melts he charges the take-off and makes the
away. It has to – it’s about survival now, as section, Mossop feels alive – truly alive –
he paddles over the heaving swell and the and yells with pure joy as he heads back
razor-sharp rocks below. towards the shore, sated.

At first he battles to find his breath, The annual Vintners’ Surf Classic is
but then settles into a familiar rhythm arguably the coolest surf contest in the
country – one that’s not about winners
or losers, but a good-natured, bonding
battle over breakers and barrels. This
unique weekend of Boland-style revelry
sees a large contingent of SA’s most

78 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com

BARRELS AND BREAKS TRAVEL

MILES’S ULTIMATE FAMILY ‘On holiday in St Francis
SURF FIX Bay, we surf every single
day, sometimes three
St Francis Bay lies between times in one day.'
Tsitsikamma and Port Elizabeth in -Miles Mossop
the Eastern Cape, and it’s a favourite
of winemaker and family man, Miles pay homage to into the early hours of the by these big supply companies, but we
Mossop. ‘My whole family surfs, next morning. just don’t play golf,’ he says from his office
including my wife Samantha and my perched on the slopes of Helshoogte,
kids, Saskia-Jo, Maximilian and Kika, The Indian and Atlantic oceans’ cooling outside Stellenbosch. ‘So we started our
so every year we take two weeks to sea breezes undeniably play an integral own surf day: the first Vintners’ in 2000
stay on the break at the beautiful St role in the wines produced in the Western saw only 12 of us compete and it’s grown
Francis,’ says Miles. St Francis Bay Cape, not only for their influence on the to 70-odd contestants, including sponsor
is built around an extensive 7km grapes, but on this new generation of competitors. It’s a friendly competition
marina and canal system and is lled winemakers who draw their inspiration that’s about having fun and raising money
with attractive whitewashed thatched from land and sea. These inherently for the Surf4Life charity, which helps get
homes perfect for family escapes. Its adventurous souls are carrying the lessons kids off the street and into the ocean.’
spectacular breaks include Bruce’s they’ve learned while catching waves –
Beauties and Seal Point. ‘We surf most since childhood – into the art and He took up surfing when he was 11
every single day,’ adds Miles, with glee. craft of winemaking. with the five Schultz brothers – three of
‘Sometimes three times in whom are also winemakers, Gunter at
one day.’ BLUE
CRUSH Kleinood, Rudi at Thelema and Carl
talented winemakers – including those at Hartenberg – and he admits it
who weave their alchemy at renowned The self-titled defines him more than anything
cellarslike Tokara, Thelema, Reyneke ‘vintner surfers’ else does. ‘As Eben Sadie [of Sadie
Wines, Waterkloof, Kleinood, Newton take their playtime Family Wines] often says: We
Johnson Family Vineyards, Grangehurst, very seriously – it’s were all first surfers before we
Sadie Family Wines and Trizanne why they refused became winemakers.
Signature Wines – gathering together in to waste it playing He also likes saying
an unadulterated celebration of their dual golf and instead that we were surfers
liquid passions. created the before we were
Vintners’ Surf Classic, husbands and fathers,’
Suitably for true acolytes of Bacchus, sayss Mossop, winemaker Mossop says with a laugh.
the contest’s entry fee is the fruit of their at Miles Mossop Wines and ‘Surfing is foremost in our
verdant vines. This gets mixed into the Tokara. ‘We’d get these endless minds at all times. What’s
contest’s unique blend, Big Red, which they invitations to golf days hosted better than sitting in the

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 79



BARRELS AND BREAKS TRAVEL

'When you’re out there, you know
it’s as good as being alive gets.’
- Johan 'Vine Hugger' Reyneke.

GUNTER’S CHOICE SURF and I’m surfing better than I’ve someone bigger than you who’ll put you in
SPOTS ever surfed.’ your place.’

Caves, Kogel Bay, Western Cape: A provincial surfer and the youngest Nadia Barnard, winemaker at
Fondly referred to as ‘Coolbay’ by of the Schultz brothers, Gunter recalls Waterkloof in Somerset West, swopped
locals for its awesome waves and once being asked at a job interview her mountain bike for a surfboard last year.
stunning beach, this break between with a winery whether he’d choose to ‘Surfing is so humbling – you realise just
Gordon’s Bay and Rooi Els is surf professionally or make wine. ‘Duh, how small you are. It’s very hard work, but
powerful and barrels are a-plenty. obviously I answered: “surf professionally!” that amazing feeling when you actually
‘ ere’s lots of sea-life – I’ve been Thankfully they still gave me the job. I love
buzzed by an Orca before!’ says making wine but surfing is my first love,’ catch a wave is so worth it. It teaches you
Gunter Schultz of Stellenbosch’s he says, adding that he’s aiming to that if you work hard and persevere,
Kleinood Winery. bunk out for a surf later in the week. the rewards are exceptional. When I
Je rey’s Bay, Eastern Cape: Home ‘Every single foreign harvest job get out of the ocean after a surf, I
to SA’s longest and most consistent I ever did revolved around the feel completely cleansed.’
wave, J-Bay is legendary worldwide fact that there’d be a cooking For Johan ‘Vine Hugger’
for its rad breaks including surf spot within a 40km radius. Reyneke, the owner and
Supertubes, Magnatubes, Boneyards Australia, New Zealand and viticulturist of Reyneke Wines,
and e Point. California all have great surf and surfing is more than a sport,
great vineyards near them – I’ve as it offers both physical and
ocean, bobbing around, feeling the cold been lucky to visit them all.’ spiritual benefits, which he
water, the sand between your reaps at least three times a
toes before you paddle out? It’s a complete For Gunter, surfing is about week. ‘Surfing has a special
oneness with nature, just like winemaking connecting with nature and word for it: stoke – it’s a
is. It helps me forget about everything reconnecting with himself. combination of happiness and
and focuses me in the moment. Every ‘Surfing has taught me contentment. When you’re out
single wave is different – you’re constantly respect, particularly as I was there, you know it’s as good as
learning, improving and changing. I’m 45 a cheeky teen when I started. being alive gets,’ he says.
That got sorted out very quickly This holistic approach is
in the ocean. I’ve learnt that no imbued in his organic wine: his
matter who you are there’s always 40-year-old vines produce

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TRAVEL BARRELS AND BREAKS

'When I get out of the ocean
after a surf, I feel completely
cleansed.’ -Nadia Barnard

grapes for what became the first A WILD CHEMISTRY is doing, what the grapes have done, Pictures: SAPhotog/shutterstock.com, baza178/shutterstock.com, Phase4Studios/shutterstock.com, Maridav/
biodynamic winery in SA in 2004. It’s what the wine is doing in the barrel. We shutterstock.com, jakkapan/shutterstock.com, KIRAYONAK YULIYA/shutterstock.com, oneinchpunch/shutterstock.com,
still among the very few engaged in The surfer vintners are used to Mother don’t actually understand everything that jakkapan/shutterstock.com, Supplied
biodynamic farming – Waterkloof is Nature throwing her best and worst at goes on in a wine. We know a lot about
another – and has achieved a John Platter them – and they’ve learned to be resilient chemistry but every batch is different,
5-Star Winery rating. ‘For me, there’s and humble in the wake of her wishes. every variety is different and every
more to life and winemaking than science ‘Surfing definitely makes winemakers vineyard is different, and it changes all
– there’s a spiritual element,’ says the more attuned to nature,’ says Bevan the time.
soul surfer/winemaker. ‘You’re inviting Newton Johnson, marketing director of
that spirit to heal your land and be part of Newton Johnson Family Vineyards in Like winemaking, surfing is creative
your farm. I didn’t really choose wine or the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, near – you’re adjusting to the conditions
surfing – they kind of chose me. I’ve learnt Hermanus. His younger brother
that you can surf with the wave, rather Gordon is the winery’s winemaker and trying to make the best of
than against it. With my winemaking, what – both are avid surfers. ‘You them. You learn to be resilient
you find in our wine is an expression of learn that you can’t dictate to and patient.’
our farm. That’s all there is in our wine: the ocean, which is similar to For Gunter, both are art
it’s these grapes and time. No yeast, no wine-making – you’re in control forms and surfing brings
tricks… It’s just love, passion, nature, as much as the vintage allows calmness and relaxation
happiness that comes together in a you to bein control.’ to the intensity of his
beautiful glass of wine.’ And it’s these four winemaking. And of course,
ingredients that Reyneke channels when Winemaking and surfing when winemaking and waves
chasing those other barrels, the perfect have honed Mossop’s meet at annual events like
peeling waves that surfers’ fantasies are instincts for dealing with the the Vintners’ Classic, it further
made of. subtleties of change. ‘When boosts the camaraderie that
it comes to winemaking, just exists between the Cape’s
like waves, your environment vintner surfers. ‘A rising tide
is ever-changing; every vintage lifts all boats: if your competitor
is different,’ he says. ‘You’re does well, it’s fantastic for brand
learning different personalities South Africa,’ says Reyneke.
and constantly having to adjust to ‘That’s the way we surf, that’s the
the conditions, what the weather
way we make wine.’

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PLAY WHEN YOU GET THERE TRAVEL

playgroundALL THE WORLD’S A
From wild to mild, from coast to koppie,
from sky-high to submerged in the sea,
Anthony Sharpe digs up the dirt on the
playgrounds that are calling your name
right now.

STAGGER UP SANI PASS

The Sani Pass is a rough gravel pass in the process of being
tarred that starts at 1 544m and climbs to 2 876m, with
gradients of up to 1:3, and snow and ice in winter. Only attempt
this pass if you’re packing a 4x4. Or you could join the mad
mob that makes an on-foot race of it during the aptly-named
Sani Stagger Marathon, a 42.2km (up and down) or 21.1km
(just down) race along the pass. Those heartbreaking uphills
combine with seemingly endless twists in the road, plus that
lung-busting altitude to make it a serious challenge. Of course,
once you get to the top, you have the opportunity to admire
the jaw-dropping vistas of South Africa and Lesotho, before
buggering your knees up all the way back down. Deep Heat,
anyone? 24 November, sanistagger.co.za

Pictures: Supplied

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SHRED THE ATTAKWAS BLAST PAST
IDYLLIC BEACHES
The first documented journey from
Oudtshoorn to Mossel Bay took place in Cape Town’s Atlantic coast
1689. The Attakwaskloof Pass, now more is famous for white sand
than 300 years old, was an important beaches, ice cold water and
connection between the interior and the smoking hot sunbathers. You could
coast, and now the area plays host to spend a weekend at each beach and
an important date on the trail running alcove and not get bored. But what if you felt like tearing
calendar: Bonniedale Farm’s Attakwas through them all in one crazed day? That’s the idea behind
Trail. The route has been revised, with the Torpedo Swim Run, which is exactly what it sounds
the Extreme route now incorporating a like, but without torpedoes. It’s a race where teams of two
section of technical single-track, making swim and run a 16km route across Cape Town’s most iconic
for 32.5km of intense running, with 1 beaches and bays, including Llandudno, Oudekraal, Camps
650m of elevation gain (ouch!). For saner Bay and Clifton. Make sure that wetsuit-shoe combo is
folk, there’s the Attakwas Trail Mini, a comfortable, as it stays on the entire race; with no transition
7.5km route that provides a teaser of zones, you simply hop out of the water and run to the next
the real deal. Expect glorious scenery, swimming stage. 19 November, torpedoswimrun.com
well-stocked water stations and a lekker
ostrich braaivleis awaiting you at the finish kulula.com
line. 25 November, attakwastrail.co.za

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PLAY WHEN YOU GET THERE TRAVEL

WEAR PLAID IN PARADISE

If watching people in funny trousers and caps thunk a ball around acres of pristine, water-slurping grass is your cup of tea,
then up your golf-watching game by doing it in glorious surrounds. And what surrounds could be more glorious than those in
Mauritius? The Afrasia Bank Mauritius Open, held on the southern edge of the island country at Heritage Resorts, is a 72-hole
stroke-play championship with 18 holes played each day. With a field comprising 132 professionals, it offers all the adrenaline-
packed thunking action you could desire – in paradise. 30 November–3 December, afrasiabankmauritiusopen.com

GRIND GRAVEL IN THE KAROO CARVE SAND IN
THE DESERT
The stark beauty of the vast, open Karoo landscape is something usually experienced
while driving swiftly along one of its regional roads, but it’s worth taking the time to Namibia isn’t known for its high snowfall,
appreciate it, which is what makes the Karoo GravelGrinder such a great opportunity. but that shouldn’t stop you from donning
What better way to see off 2017 than by pedalling serenely with your family, pals a helmet, strapping a board to your feet
or colleagues through the unpopulated, majestic terrain around Prince Albert in the and careening down a slope at breakneck
baking December sun? Would it help to know there’s luxury accommodation, great speeds. In fact, there’s a 90m-high sand
wine and delicious food waiting at the end of each of the three 80km days? Sure it dune near Swakopmund that offers the
would. Get your butt into gear for the new year. Throughout December, perfect opportunity to do just that – and
mtbafrica.com/karoo-gravelgrinder not a chilblain in sight! Alter Action
Sandboarding supplies all the gear
necessary; all you need to do is bring the
necessary balls to handle going up to
80km/h downhill and the iron calves to
handle the long trudge back up to the top
to do it again. alter-action.info

kulula.com NOVEMBER 2017 95

TRAVEL PLAY WHEN YOU GET THERE

WRESTLE TIGERS IN THE DELTA TAKE THE PLUNGE AT Pictures: Supplied
VICTORIA FALLS
Okay, these aren’t the feline kind of tigers. While they may be slightly smaller
than their furry, terrestrial counterparts, tiger fish are among Africa’s most Stairway to Heaven, The Terminator,
voracious predators, hunting in packs, at times attacking humans and, as The Washing Machine, Judgement
recently documented by disbelieving scientists, leaping out of the water to Day, Devil’s Toilet Bowl and Oblivion.
catch birds in flight. But if you’re going to take these bad boys on, there are While these may sound like heat
few more picturesque places to do it than along the vast maze of twisting, grades at a Grey Street curry joint,
swampy waterways of Botswana’s great evaporation station: the Okavango they’re actually the names of rapids
Delta. Be warned that, right now, it’s wet and hot, with daytime temperature along the Zambezi River, which
reaching into the 40s. should give you an idea of what
you’re getting yourself
FLY A KITE IN MADAGASCAR into should you
choose to brave
With over 90% of its endemic wildlife found them. And
nowhere else on the planet, Madagascar is brave them
an astonishing biodiversity hotspot. From the you should:
deserts of the south, to the extinct volcanoes August to late
of the central plateau or the islands off December is
the northern coast, it’s also geographically the best time
diverse. And, if you happen to find yourself to go rafting, as
in the city of Antsiranana (previously known the water level is
as Diego Suarez), it’s pretty breezy – breezy lower and the rapids
enough to strap a giant kite to yourself and go are more exposed.
scudding across the turquoise, crystal-clear You can scare yourself silly
waters of one of several bays that offer ideal on a single-day trip or stretch it out
conditions for learning to kite surf. And when over up to a week, camping on the
a day of flying leaves you feeling wrecked, riverside in the Batoka Gorge.
it’s hard to imagine a better spot on earth in shearwatervictoriafalls.com
which to recuperate. kitealize.com

96 NOVEMBER 2017 kulula.com