World Spicy Food

Origins ALLHIVE © GETTY IMAGES

Said to be the most ancient
among Thai dishes, this paste

was, and still is, made with
the pestle and mortar. Early
versions mixed peppercorns
with fermented soy beans and
charred shallots, providing heat
and salt, alongside a souring
agent, such as lime juice or fresh
tamarind. As the Thais moved
south, they discovered and
added coconuts, palm sugar and
fermented fish. And as chillies
arrived in the 16th century, they

too were thrown in.

Tasting notes
The classic nam phrik gapi is both pungent and delicate, a wonderful mix of raw garlic,
shrimp paste, palm sugar, fish sauce, lime juice… and a mind-blowing quantity of bird’s-eye
chillies. The first taste is deep, before the tiny fruits kick in and get the heart beating faster.
But as in all Thai food, balance – between the salty, sweet, sour and hot – is everything. A
bitter version is made with pea eggplants, while in the south it’s made with coconut. Some
have pork as a main ingredient, others green pepper, tamarind, minced prawns and salted
duck egg. But remember… nam phrik is never, ever eaten alone. ● by Tom Parker Bowles

200

CONDIMENTS

SERVES 8

THAIL AND

Nam Phrik

In Thailand, you’re never more than a few feet from nam phrik,
a pungent, spicy shrimp-and-chilli relish that’s eaten alongside
everything from omelettes to fish cakes, deep-fried prawns and pork.

Nam Phrik Gung

You’ll need Method
4 cloves of garlic, peeled 1 Grind the garlic, salt and coriander roots into a paste with
Pinch of salt a mortar and pestle.
2 coriander roots
4 shallots, grilled or roasted 2 Peel the grilled (or roasted) shallots and add them, with the
8 bird’s eye chillies chillies and shrimp paste. Pound the mixture, adding stock to
½ tsp shrimp paste keep it moist.
Some chicken stock
1–2 tbs palm sugar 3 Mix in the palm sugar, lime juice and fish sauce to taste.
½ tbs lime juice
Dash of fish sauce 4 Finally, add the pea eggplants and prawns and crush with the
2 tbs pea eggplants pestle so both are bruised. This coarse, hot, salty condiment
Handful of small prawns can be served with meat or raw/blanched vegetables.

TIP There are dozens of varieties of nam phrik in Thailand.
This one, adapted from the master Thai chef David Thompson,
of Nahm restaurant in Bangkok, features pea eggplants and
prawns.

201

Origins You’ll need DENNIS GOTTLIEB; WILLIAM REAVELL © GETTY IMAGES
2 red capsicums, seeded and
Though the exact origins of
pepper jelly are unclear, it is finely chopped
presumed to have been invented 2 green capsicums, seeded
by early settlers to Southern USA
to preserve the chillies that grew and finely chopped
there. Different regions have 10 jalapeño chillies, seeded
different styles – Texas pepper
jelly usually contains jalapeños, and finely chopped
for example, while St Augustine 1 cup (250mL) cider vinegar
in North Florida uses unique 1 packet (6g) fruit pectin
datil chillies brought by Chilean 1kg (2lb) sugar
immigrants. Most use sweet red
bell peppers (capsicums) as the 202
base, though green pepper jelly

is not uncommon.

CONDIMENTS

6MJAAKRESS

SOUTHERN USA

Pepper Jelly

As rosy orange as sunset in a jar, sweet-spicy pepper
jelly on a tray with crackers and cream cheese is a

quintessential part of any proper Southern dinner party.

Method 5 Remove from the heat and skim away any
1 Place the capsicum and chillies in a large foam with a slotted spoon.
saucepan and add the vinegar.

2 Stir in the pectin. 6 Ladle into pre-sterilised glass jars or other
heatproof containers.
3 Bring the mixture to the boil over a high
heat. 7 The jelly will last for 2–3 weeks if stored in
the refrigerator.
4 Stir in the sugar and return to the boil for
1 minute, stirring constantly.

Tasting notes
The classic way to taste red pepper jelly is as an appetiser, served with crackers and cream
cheese. The sweet heat of the jelly is a perfect contrast to the cool, unctuous cheese.
Subbing goat’s cheese for cream cheese is a slightly more sophisticated take on the concept,
bringing an element of tanginess to the party. Pepper jelly also makes an excellent glaze for
meats, turning ham, chicken wings or shrimp into instant sweet-spicy delights. The bold may
even enjoy slightly softened pepper jelly over vanilla ice cream, the potent, vinegary kick of
the jelly cutting through the richness of the ice cream. ● by Emily Matchar

203

You’ll need DORLING KINDERSLEY © GETTY IMAGES, ANDERS, BEN/THE FOOD PASSIONATES © CORBIS
500g (1lb) cauliflower florets
2 onions, peeled and

chopped
100g (3½oz) French beans
Salt for brining
2¾ cups (700mL) malt vinegar
2 tbs coriander seeds
Pinch salt
3 tbs English mustard powder
3 tbs plain flour
1 tbs ground turmeric
2 tsp ground ginger
¼ cup (50mL) cider vinegar
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and

crushed
200g (7oz) granulated sugar

Origins

Even the Oxford English
Dictionary can’t fathom where

the word ‘piccalilli’ comes
from, classing it as of ‘uncertain
origin’. The spelling has varied

too: peccalillo, pickalilly,
pickylilly... It was also once
called Indian pickle, which nods
to its roots – it seems to be
an Anglicisation of India achar
(pickles), mixing the new spices
arriving from the Empire with
English ingredients. The first
known recipe was printed in Art

of Cookery in 1758.

CONDIMENTS

ENGL AND 3 TOMA4KJEASRS

Piccalilli

This ‘Indian pickle’ is like edible potpourri, a chutney-ish
jumble of chopped vegetables and spices, pickled in vinegar.

Not much to look, but a tasty addition to many a meal.

Method 6 Put the mustard mix and vinegar back into
1 Put the vegetables in a large bowl, sprinkle the pan. Bring to the boil, then simmer for
over a layer of salt, mix well, cover and leave
10 minutes.
for 24 hours.

2 Rinse the vegetables well with cold water, 7 Return the drained vegetables to the pan.
then pat dry with a dish towel. Add more sugar and water if necessary to
give a thick consistency, then take the pan off
3 Put the vinegar, coriander seeds and salt the heat.
in a large pan and bring to the boil. Add the
cauliflower and onion; simmer until slightly 8 Decant into sterilised, sealable jars. Store for
softened. 3 months in cool, dark place before eating.

4 Meanwhile, put the mustard powder, flour, TIP You can chuck in any vegetables you want
turmeric and ginger in a bowl; whisk in the – use what’s seasonal, and what you like – just
make sure they are all even bite-sized pieces.
cider vinegar until smooth, then set aside.

5 Add the beans, garlic and sugar to the pan;
stir until the sugar has dissolved then drain

over a bowl to collect the vinegar.

tasting notes
Fêtes, fairs, country-shows – piccalilli is a stalwart at these traditional affairs – and a jar of
this garish relish might be found loitering at the back of many an English cupboard or fridge
– possibly untouched. It’s a bit of a Marmite: most either love or hate its curious, vaguely
curried crunch of seasonal veg, which may include cauliflower, beans, onions and small
cucumbers. But order a ploughman’s lunch and take the plunge – a platter of English cheese,
crusty bread, crisp celery, and perhaps a slab of ham, are the perfect canvas for a daub of
piccalilli. Its mild yet discernible turmeric and mustard tang enhances the flavours – not to
mention adding a splash of colour, too. ● by Sarah Baxter

205

Origins

Although the origins of pol
sambola aren’t known, it’s
not surprising that Sri Lankan
cooks combined two easily
sourced ingredients – coconut
and chilli – to make what is
today one of the nation’s most
popular condiments. Coconuts
have been a staple crop for the
island since at least the Rohana
Kingdom (210–161 BC), but
chillies were only introduced by
colonial-era trading ships in the
17th century, so the dish must

have evolved after then.

CONDIMENTS

SERVES 2

SRI LANKA

Pol Sambola

This coconut-rich spicy sambol (chutney) sums up tropical
Sri Lanka. Its tingling heat, tempered by candy-sugar coconut,

is sunshine and lazy beach days for your taste buds.

MATT MUNRO © LONELY PLANET IMAGES, MATC13; KIMBERLEY COOLE © GETTY IMAGES You’ll need Method
½ red onion, peeled and 1 Using a mortar and pestle (or a food processor) grind up the
red onion, dried red chillies, chilli powder, Maldive fish and half
finely diced of the lime juice until it becomes a paste.
3 dried red chillies
1 tsp chilli powder 2 Add the coconut and the rest of the lime juice and combine
1 tbs Maldive fish (optional) by hand until the mixture is an even orange-red colour. Add
Juice of 1 lime salt to taste.
3 cups grated flesh of fresh

coconut
Salt to taste

Tasting notes
A sticky-looking orange side dish appears without fanfare on your table. Under the rhythmic
thwack-thwack of the restaurant’s wobbling ceiling fans, the Sri Lankans at the table next
to yours are spooning generous dollops of this stuff on to their rice. Do as they do to
discover why the pol sambola bowl is often the first one emptied. The initial taste is the
fruity sweetness of coconut, but a punch of chilli soon makes its presence known. There’s
sourness as well, thanks to a generous dousing of lime and, if the cook has used Maldive
fish, a salty note adds a final bite. Sweet, salty, sour and spicy, pol sambola is the piquant
antidote to a humid Sri Lankan day. ● by Jess Lee

207

Origins

Xnipec has been prepared in
the Yucatán peninsula for over

8000 years, since the first
habañero peppers were grown
domestically. Habañeros come

from the Amazonia region in
South America and it is believed
they reached Mexico via Cuba

(hence the name habañero
for Habana, the capital). Their

scientific name, however,
is Capsicum chinense thanks
to a Dutch botanist named
Nikolaus J von Jacquin, who

mistakenly believed they
originated in China.

CONDIMENTS

SERVES 4

THE YUCATÁN PENINSUL A, MEXICO

Salsa Xnipec

Xnipec means ‘the dog’s nose’ in Mayan so prepare for
some nose-tingling snuffles after tasting this fiery salsa made

from blazing-hot habañeros blitzed with sour citrus juice!

You’ll need Method
4–5 habañero peppers 1 Over an open flame on the stove or a barbecue, roast the
⅔ cup (170mL) sour orange habañeros until the skin blackens. In Yucatán cooks often
roast the habañeros by placing them directly over hot
juice or use a combination charcoal coals.
of lime juice, lime zest and
grapefruit juice 2 Using a pestle and mortar, crush the habañeros, adding
¼ cup fresh coriander leaves enough juice to make a salsa. Add the coriander and salt
(cilantro), chopped to taste.
Salt to taste

tip Use this spicy table con- 3 Adjust the seasoning and let it rest for half an hour or so.
diment over scrambled eggs,
grilled meats, rice and beans,
and, why not, a good slice
of pizza.

JUANMONINO © GETTY IMAGES Tasting notes
Xnipec goes best with food from the Yucatán region. At the Lucas de Vargas Market in
Mérida, people sprinkle xnipec over freshly made panuchos (black-bean-stuffed tortillas
topped with chicken or turkey), and tacos with cochinita pibil (slow-roasted, marinated
pork, sour oranges and annatto seeds wrapped in banana leaves). Although the kick can
be extreme, it is tamed with pickled red onions, which provide a cool contrast. Luckily, you
don’t have to travel far to get a xnipec hit – if you can find habañeros then you can easily
make your own. But beware, xnipec is not for the faint of heart and if you go too far you may
find your nose getting as wet as your dog’s! ● By Mauricio Velázquez de León

209

Origins JAMES BAIGRIE; ROBERT VAN WAARDEN © GETTY IMAGES

Sambal was originally an
Indonesian word, but today
the term is used across the
region, and even as far afield as
Sri Lanka and the Philippines.
Now integral to Indonesian
cooking, the condiment owes
its existence to the spice trade
from South America to Spain
and Portugal and on to Spanish
and Portuguese colonies in
Southeast Asia. This was how
the chilli first arrived in Asia, and

Asian cooking was never
the same again.

210

CONDIMENTS

SERVES 4

MAL AYSIA & INDONESIA

Sambal Ulek

No, that innocent blob of red sauce isn’t ketchup, it’s
sambal ulek – Indonesian chilli paste, a fiery mix of raw
red chillies and terasi (belacan) – toasted shrimp paste.

You’ll need Method
4 tbs vegetable oil 1 Heat oil in a wok and add the chilli, shallots and garlic. Fry
20 fresh red chillies, sliced until the chillies and shallots are soft.
10 shallots, peeled and
2 Add the tomato and continue to fry for another minute, then
chopped transfer the mixture to a pestle and mortar.
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and
3 Crush and grind the ingredients together with the toasted
chopped shrimp paste, salt and palm sugar, and work the mixture into a
1 fresh tomato, chopped coarse paste.
1 tsp toasted shrimp paste
4 Transfer to a jar and keep in the fridge until needed.
(terasi/belacan)
1 tsp salt
1½ tsp palm sugar

Tasting notes
Taste it tentatively, is our advice. You may find a dollop of this culinary napalm on the side
of your plate, or in a bowl or dish on your table. Do not be lulled into false sense of security.
This is not the local ketchup, this is preserved fire. As you deposit the first morsel into your
mouth, you can expect a hammer-blow hit of chilli, and the heat will be even more ferocious
if the sambal is freshly prepared. Then you’ll notice the other flavours: the salt and sugar, the
garlic, and the fishy tone added by the terasi (belacan). The trick is to take small blobs with
each forkful; stirring a spoonful into your meal is unwise... ● By Joe Bindloss

211

Origins You’ll need
1 part freshly grated or pre-
It is believed that wasabi was
originally used for medicinal prepared wasabi
purposes in medieval Japan and 10 parts whole-egg
it was not until the Edo period
mayonnaise
that its popularity as 300g (11oz) sashimi-grade
a condiment and ingredient in
Japanese cookery grew due salmon, chopped in small
cubes
to its formal cultivation. In 1 medium avocado, diced
addition to its flavour and ability 1 shallot, peeled and finely
diced
to disguise the strong smell of Juice of 1 lime
the sea, it is likely that wasabi’s Handful of dill
anti-bacterial and deodorising Salt and pepper
Salad leaves to serve
properties led to its use
with raw fish.

LUCIANO MORTULA © SHUTTERSTOCK

CONDIMENTS

JAPAN SERVES 4

Wasabi

One of Japanese cuisine’s magical ingredients, indigenous wasabi –
a knobbly, pale-green root vegetable with bright-green flesh – has
a pungent yet refreshing taste that elevates sashimi to dizzying heights.

SALMON TARTARE WITH
WASABI MAYONNAISE

Method
1 To make the wasabi mayonnaise, mix the
freshly grated wasabi with the mayonnaise.

2 For the salmon tartare, mix the wasabi
mayonnaise with the salmon, avocado, shallot,

lime juice and dill.

3 Pack the salmon mixture into a round cookie
cutter or mould on a plate.

4 Carefully lift the cutter or mould, season
the salmon mixture with salt and pepper and

garnish with salad leaves to serve.

tip Use wasabi paste if you can’t find fresh
wasabi. This mayonnaise can also be used as a
dipping sauce for grilled meats and vegetables.

OLGAKR © GETTY IMAGES Tasting notes
Wasabi thrives in Japan’s cold, pure running water, which is why it is difficult to source
outside Japan. Those used to the ubiquitous sachets or the powdered pastes served in sushi
restaurants might be surprised to learn that their hotness is due to the harsher horseradish,
which is often used to supplement the more-expensive wasabi. Fresh wasabi root on its
own is rather bitter but, freshly grated, it’s a revelation – more delicate and fragrant than
horseradish, the initial pungent ‘hit’ lasts only a few seconds after grating and delivers a
refreshing taste. Fresh wasabi is best eaten on its own, not mixed with soy sauce, on sushi
or sashimi or as a palate-cleanser between different raw-fish dishes. ● By Johanna Ashby

213

GLOSSARY

acuka Turkish name for atchar Spicy pickles – a South meat. Boiled or fried potatoes
muhammara. African condiment usually made could be a fair substitute.
with unripe green mangoes and
ají amarillo A Peruvian yellow chillies and served with curry. cayenne pepper Hot and
chilli pepper, turning orange as pungent, used powdered, whole,
it matures. baharat An Arabian spice in dried flakes or in a vinegar-
blend consisting of allspice, based sauce. Red chilli powder
ají limo A Peruvian chilli with cardamom seeds, cassia bark, or paprika can be substitutes.
a spicy, yet distinctive citrus cloves, coriander seeds, nutmeg,
flavour when cooked. It’s dried red chilli/paprika and ceviche A dish of fresh, raw
commonly used in ceviche, salsa peppercorns. fish marinated in citrus juice
and rice dishes. (lemons or limes) until ‘cooked’
belacan Malay shrimp paste. by the acid. Unlike escabeche,
Aleppo pepper Commonly used Used widely in Asian countries ceviche is not cooked prior to
in Middle Eastern/Mediterranean and purchased in blocks. marinading, so the freshness of
cuisine, it has a moderate heat the fish is paramount.
with a bit of a cumin, fruity berbere A spice mixture from
undertone. Ethiopia and Eretria, featuring chile de árbol A small Mexican
the rare Ajwain seed, along with chilli pepper also known as
allspice Not to be confused chilli, garlic, ginger, dried basil, bird’s-beak chilli/rat’s-tail chilli.
with mixed spice or five-spice, cloves, fenugreek, cardamom Can be substituted with cayenne
allspice is a key ingredient in and coriander and other pepper.
Caribbean jerk seasoning and ingredients.
made with the dried, unripe Chinese five-spice A classic
berries of a pimento tree. bird’s-eye chilli A small chilli mixture of spices used in Chinese
found in Southeast Asia, cooking, ingredients usually
amchur Ground mango powder technically medium in heat, but comprise star anise, cloves,
used in Indian cooking. more than hot enough for most fennel seeds, Sichuan pepper
people. and Chinese cinnamon.
annatto paste/seed Used in
Mexican and Caribbean cooking candlenuts An Indonesian staple Chinese cinnamon Also known
to give a rich, saffron-like colour. used to thicken spice pastes. as cassia cinnamon. Has a more
Try a blend of turmeric and Macadamia nuts would be the pungent, stronger taste than
paprika as a substitute. best choice for a substitute. Ceylon (real) cinnamon, as
Chinese cinnamon contains 5%
añejo A sharp Mexican cheese cassareep A key ingredient in cassia to Ceylon’s milder 0.4%.
made from either goats’ or cows’ Guyanese pepperpot; a thick
milk, flavoured with paprika. black liquid made from cassava. chipotle A smoke-dried jalapeño
Good for grilling or baking. chilli – used primarily in Mexican
Parmesan or feta can be used as cassava A tuberous root and cooking, with a mild, earthy
a substitute. major source of carbohydrate spiciness. Ideal in salsas, for
in the developing world. Has a meat marinades or added whole
árbol see chile de árbol. delicate flavour and accompanies to soups and stews.

214

GLOSSARY

çiğ köfte Translates as ‘raw fufu A staple in West African chilli pepper that can vary in
meatballs’ in Turkish, it is the cooking – yams or cassava colour (unripe are green, other
finest lean raw beef (or lamb), pounded into a dough. Pinch off colours include orange, red,
ground with onions, tomato a bit of fufu with your right hand white, brown and pink).
paste and bulgur (cracked and dip into soups.
wheat), laced with isot pepper. hae ko Prawn paste – a common
galangal A rhizome, similar in ingredient in Asian cuisine.
cloves A very strong spice, appearance to ginger, purchase
native to Indonesia. Commonly fresh (use a sharp knife to slice) harissa A hot chilli sauce from
available, but try a mixture of or powdered. Ginger can be used Tunisia.
allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg if in its place, but it is much milder
a substitute is required. than galangal. hawaji A Yemeni spice mix
incorporating peppercorns,
cumin An aromatic spice garam masala A sweet blend caraway seeds, saffron,
available whole (as a dried of spices including cardamom, cardamom and turmeric.
seed) or ground; used to flavour cumin, pepper and star anise.
curries and soups. Use caraway huajiao See Sichuan pepper.
seeds (half as much) as a ghee Clarified butter.
substitute. huoguo Translates as ‘fire pot’ in
ginger flower Also known as Chinese – a simmering broth of
doro wat An Ethiopian stew or torch ginger. In Southeast Asia chillies and Sichuan peppercorns
curry, traditionally prepared with the bud of this beautiful flower in which various meat, seafood
chicken, egg and onion laced is used to make laksa. Can be and vegetables are cooked,
with berbere spice mixture. purchased frozen from large ‘asian-fondue’ style.
Asian grocery stores.
epazote A herb with a strong, ika mata A raw fish salad with
acidic taste used to flavour gochujang A savoury Korean coconut, originating in Rarotonga
Mexican dishes. Can be difficult condiment of red pepper paste, (Cook Islands).
to source/substitute – try comprising red chilli, rice,
combining cumin, oregano and fermented soybeans and salt. injera An Ethiopian fermented
coriander. pancake with a spongy texture,
guajillo chilli A reddish-brown traditionally eaten with wat or
escabeche Poached/fried fish Mexican chilli pepper. Moderately doro wat.
marinated in an acidic mixture, hot in flavour. Used in salsas,
served cold and name of the pastes and meat rubs. isot pepper A dried Turkish chilli
marinade itself. See also ceviche. pepper with a smoky, sultry
guaque chilli A Guatemalan chilli taste. Used in meat and savoury
fenugreek Available in seed or pepper. foods with an initially mild heat
dried herb format, or as a fresh that builds deceptively over time.
vegetable. The yellow seeds are a gula melaka The Indonesian name
popular feature of Ethiopian and for palm sugar. jalapeño pepper A medium-sized
Indian cooking, particularly in chilli pepper, usually picked
dhals and spice mixes. habanero chilli An intensely hot when green.

215

jjigae A Korean dish similar to laksa leaves A weirdly metallic muhummara A Syrian dip, using
a stew, typically served in a tasting mint, with strong pepper fresh or roasted red capsicum
communal dish with meat and notes. Use mint and coriander pounded with ground walnuts,
vegetables. as a substitute. Also known as olive oil and breadcrumbs,
Vietnamese mint. with dried Aleppo pepper,
Kampot pepper Available as pomegranate molasses, cumin,
green, black, red or white leaf masala A blend of cumin, salt, garlic and lemon juice.
peppercorns, originating from coriander, fennel, paprika and
the southern province of Kampot bay leaves. Ideal for curries. ‘nduja A Calabrian spicy,
in Cambodia. spreadable salami. Substitute
lemongrass A popular herb with chorizo or any spicy Italian
kecap manis Indonesian sweet in Asian cuisine and can be sausage.
soy sauce, extra syrupy when purchased whole, dried or
added to palm sugar. Regular powdered. As the name suggests, nit’r qibe An Ethiopian spiced
soy sauce mixed with honey or it has a citrus flavour. butter consisting of unsalted
molasses can be used instead. butter, black cardamom seeds,
lontong Compressed rice cake, fenugreek powder and ground
kerisik A dense paste used in usually served cold or room nigella seeds.
Malaysian and Indonesian cuisine temperature with Indonesian
– made from coconut roasted in dishes. nori Edible seaweed commonly
a dry pan and ground in a mortar used as a wrap for sushi, but
and pestle. machaca A Mexican dish of dried, also as a garnish or flavouring in
spiced and shredded beef or noodles and soups.
kimchi A Korean side dish of pork jerky, usually served with
vegetables with a variety of flour tortillas. okra Five-sided small pods with
seasonings. Has a spicy/sour an zucchini/eggplant taste. Used
flavour. ma-la Meaning numbing and to thicken soups and stews due
spicy – the repercussions to the release of gelatinous
kitfo An Ethiopian dish consisting of eating ma-la sauce; the substance when cooked.
of raw minced beef that has numbness created by Sichuan
been blended with a chilli-based peppercorns. omo tuo A Ghanese dish
spice mix and doused in melted, consisting of balls of
clarified butter. mirchi ka pakoda An Indian snack sticky pudding rice – often
of whole chillies in batter. accompanies soups.
kombu Edible kelp. Kombu is the
only seaweed that can be used mirin A sweet rice wine used otak-otak A Southeast Asian
to make stock. commonly in Japanese cooking. cake made with spiced fish
Although similar to sake, mirin is paste, wrapped in a banana leaf
la douban jiang A hot paste of lower in alcohol and has a higher and grilled over a charcoal fire.
red chilli peppers, fermented sugar content, which adds a mild Also sold frozen or in canned
broad beans, soy beans, salt, rice sweetness to dishes and sauces. varieties in Asian stores.
and spices, popular in Sichuan
cuisine. mole A slow-cooked savoury Padrón peppers (pimentos de
Mexican sauce featuring chilli Padrón) Small Spanish peppers –
lajiaojiang Chinese hot chilli peppers, herbs, spices and considered the Russian Roulette
paste. occasionally dark chocolate. of peppers; while often mild,
some can be really hot!

216

GLOSSARY

pandan leaves Long green Similar in appearance to a tinga poblana A classic stew from
leaves used in Southeast Asian jalapeño chilli pepper but spicier. the Puebla region of Mexico:
cuisine for their sweet, toasted shredded pork shoulder cooked
coconut/pecan/basmati flavour. Sichuan pepper A popular Asian with chipotle chillies.
spice. Can be used whole or,
pepperoncino An Italian mild commonly, the powder features tomatillo A light-green-
chilli, slightly bitter. in Chinese five-spice. Sichuan husked Mexican fruit and a key
pepper is not as hot as chilli ingredient in thickening sauces.
petai Known as the ‘stink bean’, pepper but has slightly zesty, Use green salsa or underripe
not because of the odour, but lemony overtones. tomatoes with lime juice as a
you will after consuming it. Used substitute.
in Southeast Asian cooking with star anise A star-shaped spice
other strongly flavoured foods. closely resembling liquorice torch ginger see ginger flower.
in flavour, it’s a traditional
pico de gallo Mexican salsa made component of Chinese five-spice turmeric This is a rhizome,
from uncooked chopped tomato, and garam masala. Substitute like ginger but usually smaller.
white onion and chillis. with anise seed, allspice or Beneath the dull orange peel,
fennel seeds. you’ll find brilliant gold. Available
pul biber see Aleppo pepper. fresh in Asian grocery stores,
suanmiao A Chinese vegetable and as a ground spice almost
queso fresco A Mexican fresh also known as garlic leeks. Use everywhere.
cheese, either made from raw baby leeks or spring onions as a
cow’s milk or a combination of substitute. Urfa biber see isot pepper.
cow and goat milk. Use feta or
goat’s cheese as a substitute. sumac A citrus-tinged spice used Vietnamese mint A metallic-
in Middle Eastern cuisine. tasting mint, with strong pepper
ras el hanout A complex notes. Use mint and coriander as
Moroccan spice blend (can Szechuan pepper see Sichuan a substitute.
feature up to 50 spices) pepper.
commonly used in tagines and water spinach A popular
meat rubs. tai plaa A very hot Thai paste vegetable for stir-fries in
made with fermented fish Southeast Asian countries.
sambal A particularly fiery innards. Look for it in Asian markets or
salsa-like condiment featuring substitute with watercress, snow
tomato, onion, carrot and tamarind juice Made from pea leaves or spinach.
chilli. Buy ready-made sambals the mashed, ripened pulp of
at food markets or Asian grocery the tamarind pod. A base of zaatar/zahtar The name of a
stores. Southeast Asian dishes, it is Middle Eastern mixed herb and
distinctively sweet and sour. Can also a spice mixture, generally
Scotch bonnet pepper A variety be bought in Asian markets or made from ground thyme,
of chilli pepper found mostly in use lemon or lime. oregano and marjoram combined
the Caribbean islands – popular with toasted sesame seeds,
in hot sauces and condiments. teff An Ethiopian grain used to sumac and salt.
Also has some sweet varieties. make injera, high in iron, protein
and calcium, similar in texture
serrano pepper A popular chilli to quinoa or millet, but with a
pepper used in Mexican cuisine. smaller seed that cooks faster.

217

authors and Southeast Asia, restaurant
reviewer for viewauckland.co.nz,
Tom Parker Bowles is a and incorrigible street food and
craft beer fan.
food writer with an ever-expanding gut.
He has a weekly column in the Mail on Caroline Veldhuis Contributor
Sunday, as well as being Food Editor of to Lonely Planet travel/culture
Esquire. He is also a Contributing Editor books, lifelong vegetarian and
to Departures magazine. His first book, E international culinary student
is for Eating: An Alphabet of Greed (2004) who has been declared a ‘messy’
was an opinionated romp through the cook in both Vietnam and Turkey.
world of food. His next, The Year of Eating
Dangerously (2006) explored the more Emily Matchar Culture writer
weird and exotic delicacies of the world. for magazines and newspapers;
And his third, Full English: A Journey has contributed to more than
Through the British and Their Food was published in 2009 and won the a dozen Lonely Planet titles.
Guild of Food Writers 2010 award for best work on British food. Let’s Eat Nashville-style chicken would be
(2012) is a collection of his favourite recipes, gathered from around the her jailhouse last meal. 
world and recreated in his own kitchen. Let’s Eat Meat (2014) is filled with
recipes for meat. But is all about eating less meat, but better quality. Ethan Gelber Founder/editor
of TheTravelWord.com; AFAR
Tom is also a judge of The Hotplate on Australia’s Channel 9. To counteract Ambassador; agitator for
all that eating, he once joined a gym, but sadly, it disagreed with his responsible and local travel;
delicate constitution. voracious consumer of culture,
especially the edible kind.

Isabella Noble London-based
lifelong vegetarian, with a
fervent fear of tomatoes and an
insatiable hunger for exploring
the world, one beach at a time.

Abigail Blasi Specialises in writing Anthony Ham Writer and Joe Bindloss Former food
on Italy, and is dedicated to photographer with a passion for critic for Time Out, specialising
sampling the country’s dazzling food from Africa to the Arctic in food from Southeast Asia,
gastronomy and hunting down its and from Spain to Syria. China, Korea and the Indian
spiciest flavours. subcontinent, and current Lonely
Austin Bush Lonely Planet Planet Destination Editor.
Adam Karlin Has covered India, writer, writer/photographer
Southeast Asia, Jamaica and behind the Thai food blog www. Jess Lee Co-author of Lonely
the American South for Lonely austinbushphotography.com, Planet’s Turkey and Egypt,
Planet, so it’s safe to say he’s got and contributor to publications Middle Eastern food-nut, once
a thing for bright, fiery foods. including Bon Appétit, Condé challenged a Turkish waiter to a
Nast Traveler, Lucky Peach, The hot pepper eating competition
Amy Karafin Lonely Planet India New York Times and Saveur. and won.
co-author and master scout of
dirt-cheap vegetarian food the Brett Atkinson Frequent Johanna Ashby Food and travel
world over. traveller to Australia, Turkey freelance writer and specialist

218

AUTHORS

author for Lonely Planet, keen foodie and curry connoisseur. to Lonely Planet books on
on street food to fine dining and Visit markbeales.com. Korean food and travel, intrepid
everything in between. countryside backpacker
Mauricio Velázquez de León and Korean barbecue meat
Joshua Samuel Brown Purveyor Regular contributor to Lonely connoisseur.
of good eats from Singapore’s Planet guides on Mexico and
hawker centres to Taiwan’s night Saveur magazine. He lives in the Sarah Baxter Travel writer,
markets to Portland’s food-truck United States, thousands of miles Associate Editor of Wanderlust
scene, Joshua is co-author of a from his favorite taquería. magazine and runner of
dozen-plus Lonely Planet guides. marathons – to counterbalance
Nana Luckham One-time editor the global eating.
Karyn Noble A London-based in London and UN press officer
editor, writer and shameless in New York, Nana since became Shawn Low Growing up in
epicurean. Australian by a full-time travel writer and has food-crazy Singapore endowed
birth, she will happily debate hauled her backpack all over Shawn with a glutton complex
the merits of Vegemite as a Africa to research guidebooks. and a tongue-of-steel that can
condiment. withstand the fieriest of spices.
Paul Bloomfield Contributor
Kate Thomas Lonely Planet to The Times, Daily Telegraph, Simon Richmond Developed a
West Africa author with a magic Wanderlust and BBC Wildlife, Asia taste for spicy ramen while living
compass for tracking down fresh obsessive, man on a mission to in Japan in the early 1990s. He’s
and fiery dishes from Liberia find the perfect noodle soup. authored and contributed to
to Mali – and a firm belief that scores of guidebooks for Lonely
nothing beats the oysters in Penny Watson Based in Hong Planet, including Japan. www.
Guinea-Bissau. Kong, Penny writes food and simonrichmond.com
travel articles for newspapers,
Kate Whitfield Freelance writer, magazines, guidebooks and Stuart Butler Author of the
contributor to the since- coffee table tomes. Some like it Lonely Planet Ethiopia guide. He
departed Wine X magazine and hot; Penny is one of them. has written about things foodie
Black Book restaurant guide, for Olive magazine.
voracious traveller. Phillip Tang Phillip writes about
travel from his two loves, Tienlon Ho Enjoys travelling to
Lucy Corne Blogger on all things Asia and Latin America. He places where she can eat innards
beer-related, co-author of contributes to Lonely Planet’s and heads and no one cares, and
Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Peru, Mexico, China, Japan, and has written about that and other
Lesotho & Swaziland, cake Korea. More words and pictures: things for Lonely Planet.
devourer and offal avoider. philliptang.co.uk.
Virginia Jealous Has been travel
Luke Waterson Co-author of Piera Chen Travel addict, writing for Lonely Planet since
Lonely Planet’s Mexico, Peru and sometime poet, (co-)author of 1999. She’s also a poet; her
Cuba, contributor to The World’s Lonely Planet’s books on Hong second collection, Hidden World,
Best Street Food, Food/Travel Kong and China, Piera takes her was published in 2013.
writer for the BBC. Addicted to rice with a baby-fistful of fresh
Oaxaca’s chillies. chillies, finely chopped. Will Gourlay Long-time Lonely
Planet editor, and writer with a
Mark Beales Co-author of Lonely Rob Whyte Long-time resident particular focus on Turkey. Often
Planet Thailand, dedicated of South Korea, contributor seen loitering near kebab stands.

219

INDEX gan guo 60-1 Ethiopia
Gong Bao chicken 64-5 doro wat 44-5
location Kashgar lamb kebabs 82-3
Bangladesh mao xue wang 102-3 Europe
mapo doufu 104-5 horseradish and roast beef
lime pickle 194-5 saliva chicken 148-9 sandwiches 190-1
Bhutan Singapore noodles 160-1 klobasa 90-1
yu xiang qie zi 180-1
ema datse 46-7 Croatia Ghana
Cambodia fiš paprikas 50-1 groundnut soup 68-9
England
crab with Kampot pepper 38-9 mustard 198-9 Guatemala
Caribbean piccalilli 204-5 kak’ik 80-1
tikka masala 168-9
Caribbean curry goat 26-7 Guinea-Bissau
Jamaican jerk 74-5 ostras picantes 116-17
pepperpot 126-7
souse 164-5 Guyana
China pepperpot 126-7
dan dan noodles 42-3
Hungary
goulash 66-7 TONY C FRENCH © GETTY IMAGES

India
chicken 65 30-31
lime pickle 194-5
mirchi ka pakoda 106-7
pig trotter curry 136-7
rasam 142-3
samosas 154-5
vindaloo 176-7

Indonesia
gado gado 58-9
otak-otak 118-19
rendang daging 146-7
sambal ulek 210-11

Iraq
zahtar 182-3

Italy
’nduja 114-5
pasta all’arrabbiata 124-5

Japan
gekikara rāmen 62-3
katsu curry 84-5
salmon tartare with wasabi
mayonnaise 212-3

Jordan
samak harrah 150-1

INDEX

Korea Peru shakshouka 156-7
Andong jjimdak 14-15 ceviche 28-9 Turkey
kimchi 192-3 Creole cau cau 40-41
kimchi jjigae 88-9 papas a la huancaína 122-3 Adana kebab 12-13
tteokbokki 174-5 çiğ köfte 36-7
Portugal lahmacun 94-5
Laos chorizo 34-5 United Kingdom
larb gai 96-7 pica pau 132-3 Singapore noodles 160-1
larb moo 98-9 tikka masala 168-9
som tam 162-3 Senegal USA
mangue verte 100-101 boiled crawfish 18-19
Lebanon Buffalo wings 20-1
samak harrah 150-1 Singapore chilli dogs 32-3
black-pepper crab 16-17 enchiladas 48-9
Liberia fish head curry 52-3 five alarm Texas chili 54-5
palm butter 120-1 nasi lemak 112-13 green chile 186-7
otak-otak 118-119 horseradish and roast beef
Malaysia sandwiches 190-1
nasi lemak 112-13 South Africa hot chicken 72-3
otak-otak 118-119 bunny chow 22-3 jambalaya 76-7
rendang daging 146-7 nachos 110-11
sambal ulek 210-11 Spain pepper jelly 202-3
chorizo 34-35 Singapore noodles 160-1
Mexico fabada 34-35 Vietnam
camarones a la diabla 24-5 Pimientos de Padrón 138-9 pho 130-131
enchiladas 48-9 West Africa
nachos 110-11 Sri Lanka jollof rice 78-9
salsa xnipec 208-9 kothu roti 92-93 Yemen
tortas ahogadas 172-3 pol sambola 206-7 shawayuh 158-9

Middle East Syria Type of Dish
muhummara 196-7 samak harrah 150-1 beef

Morocco Taiwan chilli dogs 32-3
ras el hanout 144-5 hong shao niu rou mian 70-1 çiğ köfte 36-7
gan guo 60-1
Mozambique Tanzania goulash 66-7
piri-piri chicken 140-1 sambaro 152-3 hong shao niu rou mian 70-1
pho 130-131
Nepal Thailand yam neua 178-9
pig trotter curry 136-7 gaang tai plaa 56-7 chicken
khao soi 86-87 Andong jjimdak 14-15
Netherlands larb gai 96-7 Buffalo wings 20-1
mosterdsoep 108-9 larb moo 98-9 chicken 65 30-31
nam phrik 200-1
Norway phat kaprao muu 128-9
pickled herring in mustard sauce som tam 162-3
134-5 Thai green curry 166-7
tom yam gung 170-1
Pakistan yam neua 178-9
lime pickle 194-5
mirchi ka pakoda 106-7 Tunisia
harissa 188-9
Palestine
zahtar 182-3

221

doro wat 44-5 pho 130-131 souse 164-5
Gong Bao Chicken 64-5 Singapore noodles 160-1 tom yam gung 170-1
groundnut soup 68-9 pork stews
hot chicken 72-3 katsu curry 84-5 doro wat 44-5
Jamaican jerk 74-5 kimchi jjigae 88-9 jambalaya 76-7
khao soi 86-87 klobasa 90-1 kimchi jjigae 88-9
piri-piri chicken 140-1 larb moo 98-9 mao xue wang 102-3
saliva chicken 148-9 ’nduja 114-15 pepperpot 126-7
tikka masala 168-9 phat kaprao muu 128-9 ras el hanout 144-5
condiments pica pau 132-3 vegetarian options
green chile 186-7 pig trotter curry 136-7 ema datse 46-7
harissa 188-9 souse 164-5 jollof rice 78-9
horseradish 190-1 tortas ahogadas 172-3 mangue verte 100-101
kimchi 192-3 vindaloo 176-7 mirchi ka pakoda 106-7
lime pickle 194-5 salads papas a la huancaína 122-3
muhummara 196-7 gado gado 58-9 pasta all’arrabbiata 124-5
mustard 198-9 larb gai 96-7 Pimientos de Padrón 138-9
nam phrik 200-1 larb moo 98-9 rasam 142-3
pepper jelly 202-3 saliva chicken 148-9 sambaro 152-3
piccalilli 204-5 som tam 162-3 samosas 154-5
pol sambola 206-7 yam neua 178-9 shakshouka 156-7
salsa xnipec 208-9 seafood yu xiang qie zi 180-1
sambal ulek 210-11 black-pepper crab 16-17 zahtar 182-3
wasabi 212-13 boiled crawfish 18-19 wraps
curries camarones a la diabla 24-5 Adana kebab 12-13
bunny chow 22-3 ceviche 28-9 enchiladas 48-9
Caribbean curry goat 26-7 crab with Kampot pepper 38-9
fish head curry 52-3 Creole cau cau 40-41 ANDREW WATSON © GETTY IMAGES
gaang tai plaa 56-7 fish head curry 52-3
katsu curry 84-5 fiš paprikas 50-1
kothu roti 92-3 gaang tai plaa 56-7
pig trotter curry 136-7 ostras picantes 116-17
Thai green curry 166-7 otak-otak 118-119
tikka masala 168-9 pickled herring in mustard sauce
vindaloo 176-7 134-5
lamb salmon tartare with wasabi
Adana kebab 12-13 mayonnaise 212-13
Kashgar lamb kebabs 82-3 samak harrah 150-1
lahmacun 94-5 tom yam gung 170-1
ras el hanout 144-5 soups
noodles groundnut soup 68-9
Andong Jjimdak 14-15 hong shao niu rou mian 70-1
dan dan noodles 42-3 kak’ik 80-1
gekikara rāmen 62-3 mosterdsoep 108-9
hong shao niu rou mian 70-1 rasam 142-3
khao soi 86-87 pho 130-131

222



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Written by Abigail Blasi, Adam Karlin, Amy Karafin,
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