The many different succulent species that grow happily at Les Cèdres invite exploration. In a large garden, a mix of styles can have a wonderfully flamboyant effect, but it is important to retain a sense of cohesion. Here, a relaxed but sophisticated feel is created with the opulent colour provided by soft-leaved shrubs. POTS GALORE Succulents planted in free-standing pots provide the ultimate flexibility for mobile garden design. Small and medium-sized pots can be rearranged as design needs change and will give a garden a classical feel, especially if they are made from
weathered concrete or terracotta. Alternatively, very large pots can be used to lend a sense of permanence.
A hybrid between two South African single-stemmed aloe species, Aloe ferox and Aloe africana, grows very well at Les Cèdres. This hybrid also occurs in nature where the distribution ranges of the two species overlap. Its flowers glow bright orange in sharp sunlight.
The beauty of gardening with succulents can lie more in the shades of green provided by their foliage than in their blooms, which are often short-lived. An inflorescence of Doryanthes palmeri shimmers against a green backdrop, like a brush dipped in crimson red paint.
Aptenia cordifolia, a mesemb indigenous to South Africa, makes a very useful and dense ground cover. A corner of Les Cèdres glows a rich purplish red as a cascade of scrambling pelargonium cultivars comes into bloom.
The leaf margins of Yucca aloifolia are sawtoothlike and lack appendages. This tree-like species is quickgrowing, and is ideal for a tub on a patio where there is no through-traffic.
Tall Yucca filifera gives height and shape to a bed. Yucca plants flower irregularly, but are always green. Even away from their natural habitat, where they rely on moths for pollination, they will produce large oblong fruit. Yucca baccata leaf margins are adorned with beautiful white threads.
Various succulents from the Old and New Worlds are planted together in this white-stone rockery: the red inflorescences belong to Gasteria carinata var. verrucosa; the yellow leaves to Agave ‘Cornelius’; the near-black leaves in the middle ground to Aeonium arboreum cultivar ‘Zwartkop’ (or ‘Schwarchkopf’); and various columnar cacti are also present.
The varying shapes and textures of crassula leaves – from shiny-smooth coins (as in Crassula ovata, left) to small shields with hairy margins (Crassula coccinea, above) – are complementary, and combining them invariably results in picture-perfect visual impacts.
Inorganic mulch, like the gravel used around this Agave sebastiana, keeps the soil moist and the plants clean.
The greyish blue leaves of these Agave species offer graphic interest: compare the fluted leaf tips of Agave tecta (above) with the finely sawtooth-like leaf margins of an uncommon form of Agave attenuata (inset) and the small, brown prickles on the leaf margins of Agave fourcroydes (left).
In a predominantly succulent garden there is never a monotonous repetition of plantings; the garden at Les Cèdres changes with the seasons, taking on a different look and feel at various times of the year, while numerous structural features add depth and tone. Here, a gravel path leads past a greenhouse filled to the brim with succulents. FACT BOX Jardin Botanique ‘Les Cèdres’ is a private botanical garden and visits are by appointment only. ADDRESS: 57 Avenue Denis Semeria, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Alpes Maritimes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, France.
The cliffs of Monaco-Ville, where succulents were first established in Monaco. From here, plants were transplanted to the Jardin Exotique. (EF)
A duet of Agave species growing near the entrance to the Jardin Exotique. The large, yellow leafmargined species in the foreground is A. americana var. variegata, while the dark green one growing above and next to it is A. salmiana var. ferox. The Principality of Monaco, one of the world’s smallest sovereign states, lies on a narrow coastal strip between Nice and the Italian border. Monaco covers just 195 hectares (482 acres), of which 22 hectares (54 acres) were
reclaimed by filling in the sea to a depth of 40 m. With a coastline some 4 km long, the entire country is about twice the size of the National Botanical Garden in Pretoria! The Jardin Exotique comprises 1.2 hectares (3 acres), amounting to 0.6 per cent of the Principality’s total area. Monaco averages over 300 sunny days a year; in winter, it enjoys almost double the number of sun-days as Paris. In general, Mediterranean climates – characterised by warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters – are perfect for the cultivation and propagation of succulents. The location of the Jardin Exotique against a warm, sea-facing slope surrounded by high mountains, shelters plants from the mistral, a cold, dry wind that sweeps down from the north. Given the mild climate, it is not surprising that virtually all of Monaco’s zones are adorned with landscaped gardens, such as the Princess Grace Rose Garden, which holds more than 3500 rose bushes.
The Jardins Saint-Martin are situated above the sea-facing cliffs of Monaco-Ville. Note the flowering specimens of Agave americana var. americana dotted along the cliffs. In a garden where succulents are used nearly exclusively, with very few trees, foliage doesn’t sway in the wind. This
introduces a marvellous sense of calm and elegant tranquillity. The history of the Jardin Exotique can be traced to the early 1860s, when France intervened in Mexico. The chief gardener of the Monaco State Gardens, Monsieur Augustin Gastaud, was fascinated by succulents from the New World, and plants acquired from Mexico soon found their way into cultivation on the cliffs of Monaco-Ville (the old town), where the Jardins Saint-Martin are presently situated. It was not long before the succulent collection caught the attention of Prince Albert I (1848–1922), then ruler of the Principality. A keen natural historian, he realised the scientific value and aesthetic appeal of the collection; so much so that he instigated the establishment of the Jardin Exotique de Monaco. Work began in 1913, a year before World War I broke out in Europe. Even the walking trail that runs past Fontvieille along the edge of the Mediterranean Sea is dotted with succulents. Green mats of South African Carpobrotus edulis trail down the rocks next to Agave americana.
The Observatory Cliff, the site chosen for Albert’s grandiose garden, is one that few people would have had the courage to develop and it is not surprising that Monaco’s chief engineer of public works, M. Louis Notari, was placed in charge of this immense task. It took 20 years but finally, on 7 February 1933, the Jardin Exotique was officially inaugurated by Prince Louis II (1870–1949). The Gardens are built on an almost vertical south-facing cliff, which overhangs Monaco and provides an exceptional panoramic view of large parts of the Côte d’Azur and the French and Italian Rivieras. In places, there are sheer vertical drops of between 90 and 130m, and the average slope is about 45 degrees. During construction, tons of soil were brought in and gigantic boulders were moved to create terraces and rocky beds, and steps and pathways were cut into the mountainside. A leisurely walk along the beautifully constructed paths and footbridges brings visitors into close contact with the diverse collections of mature cacti and succulents. One cannot fail to be impressed with the decidedly subtropical nature of the Jardin, where some of the 10m tall specimens of Euphorbia ingens and columnar cacti are over 100 years old. Another stunning feature is the massive rosettes of a variety of the large species of Agave and Yucca. Today, almost 5000 species of succulent plants are cultivated in this magnificent setting, which serves as a living memorial to what can be achieved by perseverance and vision. Thanks to the splendid weather, succulents of all sizes and descriptions flourish, reproduce and multiply here, creating the distinct impression that they were meant to grow in this place. Apart from the daringly landscaped outdoor displays of thousands of cacti and succulents that are accessible to the public, the Jardin also has a large private collection of succulents under glass. Together, the displays represent one of the largest and most important ex situ collections of mature plant specimens growing outdoors in the world.
Looking east towards the Italian Riviera. The leaves of a hybrid between Aloe arborescens and A. ferox frame the picture. (EF) The Jardin Exotique de Monaco proves that gardening with succulents and cacti is not always about introducing a formulaic newness. Here, it is about maintaining a timeless quality that will outlive changes based on last year’s ephemeral style. But, to keep things fresh, there should be a constant flow of new, sustainably introduced plants that expand horticultural horizons. In this respect the Jardin excels, as the beds are regularly refreshed with new material. The colours of the Mediterranean are undoubtedly tones of blue-mauve – fields of lavender and Limonium perezii (paper flowers) are unforgettable sights in many parts of southern France and Italy – but in Monaco’s Jardin Exotique, the introduction of brightly coloured succulents adds a further dimension to the exuberant opulence of the region. Foliage textures, built up in layers, are paramount in a succulent garden, where flowers are often short-lived.
The surrounding mountains and the high-rise buildings, emerging from virtually every square inch of this opulent paradise of modern living, brush against an azure blue sea.
A view towards the top of the Jardin Exotique, with the distinctive pergola visible on the skyline. Small and large succulents, like the deceptively feathery-looking, ball-shaped Dasylirion wheeleri – which is menacingly spiny – thrive in pockets of soil in the limestone cliffs. (EF)
Better known as a large, shady tree, this specimen of Ceratonia siliqua, the carob, clings precariously to a cliff, along with a scraggly specimen of Aloe arborescens.
Like waterfalls cascading over a cliff, the light grey-leaved Agave mitis var. albidior contrasts with the many dark green-leaved succulent species grown in the Jardin.
Many buildings in Monaco have rooftop gardens and one cannot help but wonder at the logistics of how plants and soil are transported to these penthouse gardens.
A ribbon of blue-leaved Senecio crassulaefolius, sometimes referred to as Senecio talinoides subsp. mandraliscae, ‘flows’ down a rock face. (EF)
Paths where only the brave would place them. There can’t be many botanical gardens that invite their visitors to walk along vertical cliffs. One benefit of covering plant beds with stones or rocks, and planting succulents en masse, is that the stones substantially limit weed growth and retain moisture.
If you have the space, why not try these in your garden? Several Agave species grow happily in the Jardin Exotique. The large, blue-leaved poling species on the right is Agave franzosinii (perhaps a selected form of the widely cultivated Agave americana var. americana), while Agave salmiana var. ferox is the dark green one coming into flower to its left. The cliff-hugging species in the foreground, bearing unbranched, young inflorescences, is Agave mitis var. albidior.
The shrubby Agave bracteosa with its unarmed, curling leaves is reputedly one of very few species in the genus that does not die after having flowered. The leaves of this rare specimen are variegated with a white, central section.
Although the plant beds are constructed against a vertical cliff, they are easily accessible thanks to the wide paths that snake through the Garden.
A striking specimen of Beaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
The bright purple flowers of Lampranthus cf. saturatus form a striking crescent to the silvery green rosettes of Echium wildpretii growing in the foreground. The South African Aloe arborescens and Mexican Opuntia ficus-indica growing happily near the cliff top.
Not many succulents are indigenous to the Mediterranean Basin, but succulents from many parts of the world do thrive in this climate. Here, Sedum album grows densely on piles of rocks cleared from rangelands near the small town of Serra de Santo António in central Portugal. The flowers of Sedum album are star-shaped and a pure, snowy white. The small, black spots that appear to drift above the white petals are the anthers. Size need not be an impediment when it comes to designing a spectacular succulent garden. Even in the smallest of spaces it is possible to create a magical outdoor room that is rich in character. By ‘decorating’ your garden with carefully chosen succulents, it is possible to ensure year-round glamour and appeal.
Plant architecture: no picture of the Jardin Exotique de Monaco is complete without an image of the robust, green and yellow-leaved Agave americana var. marginata with its purple leaf marginal spines. It is not surprising that yellow-leaved variants of Agave americana, such as var. variegata (right), with its snake-like leaves, are so popular in general cultivation, as yellow signifies and fosters a sense of bliss and wellbeing.
Impressive living statues. Tall-growing specimens of the Mexican Neobuxbaumia polylopha stretch their imposingly architectural arms skyward.
The tall, straight stems of Pilosocereus leucocephalus are rather artistically adorned with ‘wool’.
A group of magnificent, multi-stemmed specimens of Yucca elephantipes, which is widely available in the horticultural trade all around the world, stand proud on top of Observatory Cliff. Worlds apart: yellow-leaved Mexican Sedum nussbaumerianum (foreground) and crimson-flowered Euphorbia milii subsp. splendens, from Madagascar, dispel the notion that these two colours clash. The fireengine red of the bracts of the cyathia (inflorescences that look like flowers) of E. milii is a strong colour in any setting, but by cleverly combining it with the light yellow leaves of Sedum nussbaumerianum, the red appears somewhat subdued while the yellow is enhanced.
Massive, and clearly very old, multi-branched specimens of Myrtillocactus geometrizans from Mexico are grown throughout the Jardin Exotique. This species bears edible, purplish blue fruit, called garambullos in Mexico. This specimen overhangs one of the wide paths in the Garden.
As a result of the steep gradient on which the Jardin Exotique is situated, it is not surprising that these tall cactus specimens are anchored to the cliff face.
No prizes for guessing why Agave stricta is commonly called the hedgehog agave.
A fantastic variety of foliage and form, like this opulent and mature planting, is typical of the Jardin Exotique. FACT BOX ADDRESS: Jardin Exotique de Monaco: 62 Boulevard du Jardin Exotique, Monaco. CONTACT: +377 93 15 29 80; email: [email protected] OPENING HOURS: Open daily from 09:00. Closing time varies in summer and winter. BEST TIME TO VISIT: Year-round; closed 19 November and 25 December. COST: Entrance fee charged.
ATTRACTIONS: Panoramic views over the Mediterranean; the Observatory Cave. ACCESSIBILITY: On regular bus route; limited public parking nearby. The site is steep, with winding paths and lots of steps. There are no lifts in the Garden. INFORMATION: http://www.jardin-exotique.mc
Hanbury’s 11th century Palazzo Orengo is surrounded by magnificent stands of mature trees, including prominent cypresses. Various-coloured Nerium oleander grow in the foreground.
The form of Yucca elephantipes with white central sections to the leaves, in the foreground, is sometimes known by the cultivar name ‘Variegata’. Here it grows at the front entrance to the Palazzo Orengo.
A few water lilies grow in the Fontana degli Aironi, the Heron Fountain, which is surrounded by a broad path of white gravel. The Italian Riviera, or Ligurian Riviera, is a wonderful part of the Mediterranean. With its vibrant, sunny, dry summers and mild, wet winters, it leaves a lasting impression on any visitor. Here, the sea seems bluer, the sky clearer, and the climate more welcoming, regardless of the season. Enjoying it on a second visit is even better, as the region proves to be more beautiful than the memories of it burned into one’s mind. Indeed, once the wonders of the Italian Riviera have been experienced, there is an overwhelming imperative to do it again. Once you have been captivated by the plants, traditions and hospitality, this piece of paradise usually inspires at least one, if not two or three, return trips. Plants of all descriptions thrive along the Mediterranean coast, but it is unlikely that anyone other than the most ardent plant fanatics will ever look beyond the soaring, prickly cactus towers and charming, but spiny, rosettes of the numerous succulents and other cacti, both cultivated and naturalised, that look so incredibly at home in this environment. Most plant lovers travelling to southern Europe visit the famous Jardin Exotique de Monaco. And they cannot be blamed: this is paradise made perfect. But, a mere 20-minute drive along the coast from Monaco, just
across the Italian border, is the less heralded Hanbury Garden, or Giardini Botanici Hanbury. Perched atop a headland, between Ventimiglia in Italy and Menton in France, the Hanbury Garden stretches from midway up a steep incline, along a broad sweep right down to the beach. A more beautiful meeting place of cool, refreshing sea and parched, dry land would be difficult to find. Sitting quietly in the shade of a gnarled, centuries-old olive tree (Olea europaea subsp. europaea), while small waves break softly and lazily onto the pebbled beach, you quickly succumb to the rhythm of another hazy, lazy Mediterranean summer day. A European garden is just not complete without potted geraniums. But of course they are not ‘geraniums’; they are pelargonium cultivars derived from hybrids created from a handful of South African species used as mother stock in European horticultural circles several centuries ago. The fatleaved South African Pelargonium peltatum is one parent of this particular hybrid geranium, flowering abundantly in a barrel-shaped container at La Mortola.
The Palazzo Orengo (right), framed by large Jacaranda mimosifolia trees that originate from Argentina. In early summer, the species produces magnificent displays of purple flowers (top). The white-flowered form (above) is considerably less common in cultivation, but no less striking. The villa is perched on a steep peninsula, some 100 metres above the Mediterranean Sea. The Garden has its origins in 1867, when Sir Thomas Hanbury, a celebrated and successful English silk and tea merchant, acquired a property in the village of La Mortola, close to the French-Italian border. This was the first step in the development of what became known as the Hanbury Garden, or ‘La Mortola’. Viewing the property for the first time, it is easy to appreciate why Sir Thomas, who passed away in 1907 at the age of 75, fell in love with this beautiful and serene place and chose to make it his home. There are magnificent views of the surrounding white chalk cliffs, the azure sea, and
what today is a series of prosperous coastal communities sweltering in the magnificently mild climate. The full beauty of this part of the Riviera can be experienced in this Garden of cultivated and pristine landscapes. A steep and, admittedly, at times not so easy uphill walk, leads through a charming ‘olde-worlde’ entrance gate and on to a meandering path that flanks magnificent bedded succulents and cacti, exotic shrubs, palms, cycads, and orchards of old fruit trees that stretch virtually to the shoreline. After a long, straight, shaded descent, you step out into the light on a low, tree-filled promontory next to the Mediterranean. Here, at the end of the Garden, you are on the southern edge of continental Europe. Like many other botanical gardens developed with private funding, the Giardini has gone through periods of intense development and sad decline. But, since the 1990s, it has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. Slowly, the robust network of wide paths and walkways are being repaired and renovated to create a core of accessibility within the Giardini. Nowadays, visitors can enjoy the magnificent succulent plant specimens from up close. Plants from particularly arid, mild subtropical climates abound and thrive here. Sir Thomas Hanbury’s brother, Daniel, was a professional botanist and pharmacologist with an interest in economic botany and he was instrumental in introducing numerous medicinally important plants to the Gardens. He no doubt helped Sir Thomas, who had more than a passing interest in succulents, including aloes, to develop a global network of contacts who sent plant material for cultivation in the garden at La Mortola. Daniel Hanbury probably also played a role in convincing his brother to understand and appreciate the importance of subjecting his plant collections to scientific study. To facilitate studies of the collections and to lighten the burden of running a business, household and a major garden, Sir Thomas appointed a series of garden curators from 1868 onwards, a mere year after the Giardini was started. It is a special tribute to his drive and energy that, after such a short period of time, the collections had already reached the point where they demanded additional attention and could be put to wider study and use. Italy has a strong horticultural and gardening tradition, particularly as an early home of formal landscape architecture. However, the Hanbury Garden – the developing dream of an enthusiastic plantsman – soon proved to be far