Evaluating finished garments

TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

COMPETENCY- BASED LEARNING
MATERIALS

Sector:

GARMENTS

Qualification Title:

FASHION DESIGN (APPAREL),
NC III

Module 4:

EVALUATING FINISHED GARMENTS

Qualifications and Standards
Office
TESDA Complex
East Service Road, South
Superhighway
Taguig City, Metro Manila
Tel. No. (02) 893-8281, 8938303
www.tesda.gov.ph

COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector: GARMENT
Qualification:
Unit of Competency: FASHION DESIGN NC III
Module Title
Evaluate Finished Garments
Developed by:
Evaluating Finished Garments

TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

East Service Road, South Superhighway, Taguig City, Metro Manila

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Glossary of Terms:

Barrie Effect - A Barrie effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edges. It is
horizontal in weft knits and vertical in warp knits.

Bowing - A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion
caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine.

Streak or Stop Mark - A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is
due to the difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and
then restarted.

Skewing - Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the
cloth.

Needle Lines - Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or
looser than the adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its
slot or a defective sinker.

Boardy- The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the stitches
have been knit very tightly.

Cockled or puckered - If the knitted fabric is cockled or puckered, it is due to uneven
stitches or uneven yarn size.

Dropped Stitch - This is an un knitted stitch caused either by the yarn carrier not having
been set properly or the stitch having been knitted too loosely.

Run or ladder - A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.

Hole - A large hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific needle feed
so that knitting cannot occur.

Tucking - This is the result of an unintentional tucking in the knitted fabric. This is also
called the bird's eye defect.

Float - This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or more
needles to have been raised to catch the yarn.

AQL - stands for Acceptable Quality level.

Cost Sheet - one-page document that contains the most important details on the
garment's cost and bill of materials. It also contains a sketch of the garment.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Program/Course Fashion Design (Apparel)
EVALUATE FINISHED GARMENTS
Unit of Competency EVALUATING FINISHED GARMENTS
Module

INTRODUCTION:

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in evaluating finished
garment products against client and design requirements

LEARNING OUTCOMES
Upon completion of this module you should be able to:

LO1. Evaluate final product
LO2. Cost outcome
LO3. Maintain records

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INFORMATION SHEET #1

LO1. Evaluate final product
Objectives: TO BE ABLE TO EVALUATE FINAL PRODUCT

Principles of Design

Unity

• Repetition
• Continuation
• Closure

Emphasis /Focal Point

• Contrast
• Isolation
• Placement
• Absence of focal point

Balance

• Symmetrical
• Asymmetrical
• Radial
• All over pattern

Proportion /Scale

Contrast

Movement

Rhythm/Pattern

And the polar opposite principles:

Variety

Harmony

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Types of Inspections

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done to
crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting way,
manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as per
the customer requirement.

1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of production when
first production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguish possible
discrepancies or variation and to do necessary corrections to be made bulk production.
This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage of manufacturing of a style covering
mainly style detail, general appearance, workmanship, measurements, fabric quality,
Trims and components, Lot color, printing, embellishments and washing quality.

2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensure
initial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up of
the 1 st inline production inspection and is generally carried out after 1st line inspection
when discrepancies have been detected at that time.

Final Random Inspection: This inspection is carried out when the production of the total
quantity of an order or partial delivery is completed. A sample lot will be selected from
the order and a percentage of the garments will be inspected, this percentage usually
being stipulated by the buyer. The AQL sampling inspection system as specified by the
buyer.

Garment Defects Classification
Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user and/or result
in a hazardous condition.
Major defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the
usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as specified by customer
buyer are considered as major defects and are generally non repairable for example
fabric hole, shading among panel, wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc.
The measurement tolerate level may vary from customer to customer.
Minor Defects: A defect that does not adversely affect the usability of the product but
does consists of a deviation from the original sample, and may affect the sale of the
product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship and some can be repairable but
still can deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise for example stain, skip stitch,
wavy bottom hem etc.

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Defects in garments

By: D.Gopalakrishnan & Arpita Nayak

Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color
garment, but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in
between, creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some
sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.

Color effects - Color defects that could occur are – difference of the color of final
produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong color
combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.

Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part
from other, for example- sleeves of ‘XL’ size but body of ‘L’ size. Such defects do not
occur has to be seen too.

Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers,
irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven parts,
inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric color

Various defects in garments:
• Broken buttons
• Broken snaps
• Broken stitching
• Defective snaps
• Different shades within the same garment
• Dropped stitches
• Exposed notches
• Exposed raw edges
• Fabric defects
• Holes
• Inoperative zipper
• Loose / hanging sewing threads
• Misaligned buttons and holes
• Missing buttons
• Needle cuts / chews
• Open seams
• Pulled / loose yarn
• Stain
• Unfinished buttonhole
• Zipper too short

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Garment defects, classified according to the various manufacturing
stages are:

Pattern defects in garment:

Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the
correct number of parts. Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly
labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct
direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a
one-way fabric. Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line definition
(e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to
inaccurate cutting. Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside
edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze
the pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric. Marking back from miniature
markers also can cause trouble unless the miniature marker making is in the hands of
experienced operators. Alternatively the full size pattern may be having worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components
being sewn together with puckering and pleating. When the marker is too wide, the
garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing. Not enough knife
clearance freedom. Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.

Wrong check boxing, i.e. checks are not showing a full or partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.

Spreading defects in garment:

Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required. Plies misaligned, resulting in
garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
Narrow fabric, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing.
Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread t zoo tight or too loose. This will result in parts
not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances. Not all plies
facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with
some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or
face to face as required. Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully
included owing to splicing errors. Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies
caused by excessive static electricity. Plies are not spread accurately one above another
for cutting. This results in mismatching checks.

Cutting defects in garment:

Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts. Top and bottom
plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is
used on too high a spread. Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled,
omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric .Drill marks, which are misplaced, wrong drill to suit
fabric, omitted, not perpendicular through the spread. Frayed edges, scorched or fused
edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed. Knife
cut. Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting
previous piece. Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread. Garment parts have bits
missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted. Slits
opened inaccurately or omitted.

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Garment Twist
A rotation, usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the
release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric forming the
garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or Spirality.

Various Types of Defects in Knitted Fabrics

Bands and Streaks
There are different kinds of bands and streaks that may occur in knitting. Some of the
popular defects are as follows:

Barrie Effect: A Barrie effect has the appearance of a stripe with shaded edges. It is
horizontal in weft knits and vertical in warp knits. The barrie effect is caused by various
factors like:

• Lack of uniformity in yarn size, color or luster.
• Mush tension on the yarns during knitting one section of the fabric.
• Uneven shrinkage or other finishing defects.

Bowing: A line or a design may curve across the fabric. This bowing is the distortion
caused by faulty take-up mechanism on the knitting machine.

Streak or Stop Mark: A straight horizontal streak or stop mark in the knitted fabric is due
to the difference in tension in the yarns caused by the machine being stopped and then
restarted.

Skewing: Skewing effect is seen as a line or design running at a slight angle across the
cloth.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Needle Lines: Needle lines or vertical lines are due to a wale that is either tighter or
looser than the adjacent ones. This is caused by needle movement due to a tight fit in its
slot or a defective sinker.

Stitch Defects

There are various kinds of stitch defects like:

Boardy: The knitted fabric becomes boardy (a stiff or harsh hand) when the stitches
have been knit very tightly.

Cockled or puckered: If the knitted fabric is cockled or puckered, it is due to uneven
stitches or uneven yarn size.
Dropped Stitch: This is an un knitted stitch caused either by the yarn carrier not having
been set properly or the stitch having been knitted too loosely.

Run or ladder: A run or ladder indicates a row of dropped stitches in the wale.

Hole: A large hole or a press off is the result of a broken yarn at a specific needle feed
so that knitting cannot occur.

Tucking: This is the result of an unintentional tucking in the knitted fabric. This is also
called the bird's eye defect.

Float: This is caused by a miss stitch which is the result of failure of one or more needles
to have been raised to catch the yarn.

Common Denim Seam Quality Defects

Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting: Where
the thread is being broken where one seam
crosses another seam (ex: bar tacks on top
of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of
riser seam) resulting in stitch failure.

Broken Stitches: Where thread on the
stitch line is broken during stone-washing,
sand blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken
stitches must be repaired by re stitching
over the top of the stitch-line.

Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation: Where thread is being compromised by
the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam
failure.

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Unraveling Seams: Generally occurs on
401 chain stitch seams where either the
stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch
has occurred. This will cause seam failure
unless the seam is Re stitched.

Restitched Seams: Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on
Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by:

1. Thread breaks or thread run-out
during sewing; or

2. Cut or broken stitches during a
subsequent treatment of the finished
product (I.e., stone washing).

Sagging or Rolling Pockets: Where the pocket does not lay flat and rolls over after
laundering.

Skipped Stitches: Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle
misses the looper loop. Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam
and most of the time occurs right before or right after the heavy thickness.

Ragged / Inconsistent Edge: Where the
edge of the seam is either extremely
"ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

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Wavy Seams on Stretch Denim: Where
the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due
to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or
during subsequent laundering and handling
operations.

Ropy Hem: Where hem is not laying flat
and is skewed in appearance

Twisted Legs: Is where the side seam
twists around to the front of the pant and
distorts the appearance of the jeans.

Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim: Is where the thread looks much smaller on
seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric.
Thread discoloration after Laundry It is
the thread picks up the indigo dyes from
the fabric giving the thread a 'dirty'
appearance. A common discoloration
would be the pick-up of a greenish or
turquoise tint.

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Poor Colorfastness after Laundry: is
where the thread does not wash down
consistently in the garment or changes to a
different color altogether.

AQL Random Sampling inspection

AQL stands for Acceptable Quality level. The AQL determines the maximum amount of
admitted defective units in a sample. AQL, for purposes of sampling inspection, can be
considered satisfactory as a process average. The most commonly used AQL is a major
2.5 Minor 4.0. The AQL random sampling inspection is derived from the mathematical
theory of probability and is based on the sampling these defined in military standard
105D (MIL - STD - 105D). Some defectives are considered acceptable.

This method constitutes taking random sample from a lot of merchandise, inspecting
them and depending on the quality of the sample inspected determining whether the
entire lot is acceptable or not. The MIS - STD - 105D (also BS 6001, ISO 2859, DIN
40080) provides the sampling plans; and these determine the number of samples of be
inspected in lot size, in addition to indicating and the acceptable quality level (AQL)
which represents the maximum number of defects per hundred units that, for the purpose
of the sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.

In general cases the buyer will determine which sampling plan and what AQL to adopt.
The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions are required for expensive
items like up market or Boutiques. The AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles or normal/good
quality are involved. There are three types of sampling plans. Each sampling plan can be
performed at three levels, i.e. normal tightened and reduced, depending on inspection
requirements and quality of the products. In the garments industry generally single and
double normal sampling plans are applied. The sample size code letter table shows
various lot sizes corresponding to a series of code letters. There are seven inspection
levels, four for general inspection (already mentioned) and three for special inspection.
For garment inspection, general inspection level II (normal II) is normally applied.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Inspection Methods

Single sampling plan - Normal inspection

Assurance as AQL 2.5% and a lot of 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80
garments. If the number of defective garments found are 5 the total lot is "Acceptable"
suppose if the garments found is 6, the total lot is "Reject/Re-Check".

Double sampling plan - normal inspection

Assurance an AQL 4.0% and lot size is 1,200 garments and the sample size is 80
garments. If the number of defective garments found is 7, the total lot is "Acceptable"
suppose if the defective garments found are 8, the total lot is "Reject/Re-check". Today
most of the customer demand for high quality products in low prices. So we should
maintain the quality from the beginning stage of the production then only the final product
with reach the consumer with right quality and we can get the order continuously from
our customers. The garment manufacturers inspect their products continuously by
designated responsible inspectors then only the right quality product will reach the
consumers.

Apparel Testing

Testing is a valuable aid for textile production, distribution, and consumption. During
textiles testing the variation of a fiber or fabric i.e. length, color, fineness, threads per
inch, cover factor, is detected properly. Continuous test of the textiles results an
enhanced and efficient output of the production. By Apparel Testing we can evaluate and
ensure the quality of the garments to be used by the end users.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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SELF-CHECK #1
LO1. Evaluate final product
Directions: Check your mastery by defining the terms below:
Question:

Define Critical Defect?
Define Major defects?
Define Minor Defects?

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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ANSWER KEY #1

LO1. Evaluate final product

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to the
corresponding resources until you make it perfect

Answer:

Critical Defect: A serious defect that can cause harm or injury to the user and/or result
in a hazardous condition.

Major defects: A defect that falls to meet the mandatory regulations directly affecting the
usability, salability, safety and value of the merchandise or as specified by customer
buyer are considered as major defects and are generally non repairable for example
fabric hole, shading among panel, wrong measurement, foreign yarn, dye patches etc.
The measurement tolerate level may vary from customer to customer.

Minor Defects: A defect that does not adversely affect the usability of the product but
does consists of a deviation from the original sample, and may affect the sale of the
product. Some of these defects are due to workmanship and some can be repairable but
still can deteriorate the serviceability of the merchandise for example stain, skip stitch,
wavy bottom hem etc.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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OPERATION SHEET

OPERATION TITLE: Evaluating final product.

PURPOSE: To be able to check the quality of the final product prior to
packaging & dispatching.

CONDITIONS OR A quite, clean, well ventilated and lighted room where the

SITUATIONS FOR fashion designer can evaluate the garment properly.

THE OPERATION:

EQUIPMENT, Supplies needed for this lesson:
TOOLS AND
MATERIALS: • Several garments such as jeans, shirts & dresses
• Fitting forms
• Hanger Rack
• Hangers
• Spec sheet for each garment
• “Evaluating a Garment” worksheet for each garment
• pencils
• red dotted sticker or masking tape
• Table & chairs

PROCEDURE: 1. Gather garments to be evaluate
2. Check final garment if it conforms to the spec sheet.
3. Check inside and outside part of the garment.
4. Check stitches per cm. and thread run-in ratio checked

to be within tolerance of specification.
5. Check evenness, balance and correct bight
6. Check extensibility and security correct
7. Check absence of skip stitching.
8. Check accountability of machinist.
9. Check shade
10. Check cut is correct - e.g. neck, collar and sleeves

balanced, pockets correct.
11. Check measurements within tolerance of specification,

weight correct.
12. Check appearance correct, patterns matching.
13. Check seams finished correctly
14. Check accessories.
15. Check absence of fabric faults and stains.
16. Check correct labeling.
17. Mark with red dot sticker or masking tape defective

items
18. Make report

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EVALUATION SHEET

NO ITEM DEFECTS REMARKS

1 DRESSES LOOSE THREAD RE STICH PART

OF LOOSE

THREAD

PRECAUTIONS:

QUALITY CRITERIA: 1. Fashion designer should have an eye for details.
2. Fashion designer should know necessary steps on how

to remedy defects and alteration
3. Fashion designer must adhere to high quality standard

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JOB SHEET Evaluating final product.

JOB TITLE: Evaluating the final product
UNIT:
READING: The student will evaluate the final product.
OBJECTIVES:
LABORATORY WORK: Gather garments to be evaluated
Check final garment if it conforms to the spec sheet.
Check inside and outside part of the garment.
Separate Approved and disapproved garments.
Mark with red dot sticker or masking tape defective
items
Make report

EVALUATION: Teacher examination and inspection, using the
following criteria;

1. All steps were completed in the correct sequence.
2. All done neatly and clearly.
3. Fashion designer is keen on details.
4. All information were gathered properly

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PERFORMANCE TEST

Learner's Name Date
Competency:
Test Attempt
1st 2nd 3rd

Directions: OVERALL EVALUATION

CALL INSTRUCTOR, ask Level PERFORMANCE LEVELS
instructor to assess your Achieved
performance in the
following critical task and 4 - Can perform this skill without supervision and with
performance criteria below initiative and adaptability to problem situations.

You will be rated based on 3 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily without
the overall evaluation on assistance or supervision.
the right side.
2 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily but requires
some assistance and/or supervision.

1 - Can perform parts of this skill satisfactorily, but
requires considerable assistance and/or supervision.

Instructor will initial level achieved.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
For acceptable achievement, all items should receive a "Yes" Yes No N/A
or "N/A" response.

1. Were all steps completed in the correct sequence?

2. Are all steps done neatly and clearly?

3. Do the fashion designer keen on details?

4. Are all information gathered properly?

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INFORMATION SHEET #2

LO2. Cost outcome

Objectives: TO BE ABLE TO COMPUTE THE FINAL COST OUTCOME

Classification of Costing Methods

Standard cost

Standard cost is the cost of producing the requested product at the requested quantity
detailed to the consumed component level of both materials and cost elements such as
labor, energy etc.

This can be achieved by calculation of the cost per machine hour, broken down to the
smallest measurable element. For example, a Stenter machine hour cost is calculated by
adding the operator hours involved, the KW hours of electricity consumed, the steam Kg
used and all other consumed elements, adding to that the fixed costs, detailed by
element allocated to each hour.

Proactive costing

Knowing the cost and margin of each order line before acceptance allows decision
makers to confirm or reject an order price by actually knowing the accurate margin of that
order before production, this leads to rejecting lines far under the variable cost, avoiding
rejection of prices above variable cost but under "full average" cost and prioritizing orders
by maximizing contribution per scarce resource hour. When working in an environment
where capacity is available, any order which can contribute with a positive margins
towards covering fixed costs is acceptable, while when working at full capacity prioritizing
orders creating maximum margin per machine hour is preferable.

Margin is the difference between the selling price and the variable costs, variable costs
are the costs directly related to the manufacturing of the particular order, hence very
often even labor cost may be considered fixed for short term analysis.

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Cost Estimation Methods

Analytical cost estimation

Traditionally, the analytical approach is the most demanding in terms of data volume and
details. At the design stage, the analytical method allows evaluation of the cost of a
product from a decomposition of the work to elementary tasks and parts (bill of
materials). Then, one estimates respective costs of these tasks. This method uses data
stemmed from the accounting department of the company. In practice, the estimating of
costs by the analytical method is used during development and production phases to
estimate the production costs of a new product.

Analogical cost estimation

This is a comparative method, based on physical similarities between current products
and a new product. the analogical method allows evaluation of the cost of a product
compared with costs of other already existing products.

Parametric cost estimation

Today, parametric models are widely used throughout the world, and often are used as a
primary or, in some cases, the sole basis for estimating. They are especially useful at the
earliest stages of design in a program where detailed information is not yet available.
The parametric model is a series of Cost Estimation Relationships (CER) ground rules,
assumptions, relationships, variables and constants that describe and define a specific
situation. The main advantages in using CER are:

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It allows the user to provide quick estimates without a great deal of detailed information.
The CER are based on actual product cost history, and reflects impacts on cost growth,
schedule changes, and engineering changes.

There are three main decisional steps directly correlated to costing estimation:
1. Product design phase: At this stage, before the complete definition of the
product, parametric models can correlate costs to the main characteristics of the
design the product, in order to obtain an accurate cost estimation.

2. The definition of manufacturing strategy: It allows to understand the influence
of different possibilities in an "offshore" strategy, in terms of lead time, production
configuration and location, lot size, risk assessment and complexity of the product.
This estimation must take into account all the cost components for each supply
chain possibility, in order to:
• Build and evaluate different scenarios or variants.
• Make economical evaluation of several suppliers.
• Make strategic investment and technological choices.

3. The quotation and negotiation process: The process can be cone taking into
account the internal process complexity, or aggregated capacities in industrial
clusters. Also, it must include other variables consuming resources such as:
delivery time and delivery place, replenishment frequency, change in business
environment conditions and risk evaluation.

Parametric Cost Modeling Steps

The parametric method involves collecting relevant historical data, and relating it to
the final product to be estimated through the use of data analysis, mathematical
and statistical techniques.

• Cost Drivers Selection
• Data Collection
• Regression and curve fitting
• Test of the CERs statistical quality
• Selection of the best CER

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Cost Sheet a one-page document that contains the most important details on the
garment's cost and bill of materials. It also contains a sketch of the garment.

Trim and miscellaneous pieces on the garment can be entered on the cost sheet.
Each piece can also be computed by Each, Yard, Dozen, or Gross and you will calculate
the Total Cost based on partial quantities.

Send outs are also entered on the cost sheet

Labor costing You can enter a combination of a single flat labor cost and individual
operations on each garment.

Miscellaneous costing is available for each garment on the cost sheet. It allows you to
enter cutting, payroll, truck, bag/hang, marking, and grading costs.

The Summary Costing Panel gives you a quick overview of the total cost of the
garment. It summarizes the fabric, sends out, labor and miscellaneous costs and allows
you to enter the mark up percentage to automatically generate a line price.

The marker detail is entered on a separate screen, but is easily attached to the cost
sheet with a single marker number. Once you have attached a marker to the cost sheet,
all the information will follow to the cost sheet screen. The system allows you to remove
individual material costs from the marker to adjust your final cost.

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SELF-CHECK #2
LO2. Cost outcome
Directions: Check your mastery by completing the question below:
Question:
Define Cost Sheet?
Define Standard cost?
Define Proactive costing?

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ANSWER KEY #2

LO2. Cost outcome

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to the
corresponding resources until you make it perfect

Answer:

Cost Sheet a one-page document that contains the most important details on the
garment's cost and bill of materials. It also contains a sketch of the garment.

Standard cost Standard cost is the cost of producing the requested product at the
requested quantity detailed to the consumed component level of both materials and cost
elements such as labor, energy etc.

Proactive costing Knowing the cost and margin of each order line before acceptance
allows decision makers to confirm or reject an order price by actually knowing the
accurate margin of that order before production, this leads to rejecting lines far under the
variable cost, avoiding rejection of prices above variable cost but under "full average"
cost and prioritizing orders by maximizing contribution per scarce resource hour. When
working in an environment where capacity is available, any order which can contribute
with a positive margins towards covering fixed costs is acceptable, while when working at
full capacity prioritizing orders creating maximum margin per machine hour is preferable.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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OPERATION SHEET

OPERATION TITLE: Calculate Cost Outcome.

PURPOSE: To re compute all the cost that is involved in producing a
garment for production.

CONDITIONS OR All costs concerning production have been identified and

SITUATIONS FOR verified

THE OPERATION:

EQUIPMENT, Pen
TOOLS AND Calculator
MATERIALS: Production Cost Sheet (original)
Blank Production Cost Sheet
Actual garment
Data from different department

PROCEDURE: 1. Gather all data from different department of production
2. Get original spec sheet
3. Get new blank speck sheet
4. Input all adjustment details for fabric cost
5. Input all adjustment details for trims & findings cost
6. Input all adjustment details for labor costs
7. Input all adjustment details of overhead costs
8. Confirm and input the new markup
9. Compute for the Total Cost of the approved garment

PRECAUTIONS: Information and computations done should be correct

QUALITY CRITERIA: All computations should be reviewed and checked
thoroughly for precision.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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JOB SHEET

JOB TITLE: Cost outcome
UNIT:
READING: Evaluating the final product
OBJECTIVES:
LABORATORY WORK: The student will re-compute the final cost outcome

Supplies needed for this lesson:

• Pen
• Calculator
• Production Cost Sheet (original)
• Blank Production Cost Sheet
• Actual garment

Gather all data from different department of production
• Get original spec sheet
• Get new blank speck sheet
• Input all adjustment details for fabric cost
• Input all adjustment details for trims & findings cost
• Input all adjustment details for labor costs
• Input all adjustment details of overhead costs
• Confirm and input the new markup
• Compute for the Total Cost of the approved garment

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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EVALUATION: Teacher examination and inspection, using the
following criteria;

1. All steps were completed in the correct
sequence.

2. All done neatly and clearly.
3. Fashion designer is keen on details.
4. All information were gathered properly

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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PERFORMANCE TEST

Learner's Name Date
Competency:
Test Attempt
1st 2nd 3rd

Directions: OVERALL EVALUATION

CALL INSTRUCTOR, ask Level PERFORMANCE LEVELS
instructor to assess your Achieved
performance in the
following critical task and 4 - Can perform this skill without supervision and with
performance criteria below initiative and adaptability to problem situations.

You will be rated based on 3 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily without
the overall evaluation on assistance or supervision.
the right side.
2 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily but requires
some assistance and/or supervision.

1 - Can perform parts of this skill satisfactorily, but
requires considerable assistance and/or supervision.

Instructor will initial level achieved.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
For acceptable achievement, all items should receive a "Yes" Yes No N/A
or "N/A" response.

1. Were all steps completed in the correct sequence?

2. Are all steps done neatly and clearly.
3. Do the fashion designer keen on details?
4. Are all information gathered properly?

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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INFORMATION SHEET #3
LO3. Maintain records
Objectives: TO BE ABLE TO MAINATAIN RECORD FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
QUALITY CONTROL DATA GENERATED
Data is generated at each QC point. This must be recorded in simple systems to provide
visual on-going checks. These records provide the means for personnel accountability
and for rapid feedback for management action. -

Labor
• Cost
• Efficiency

Raw Materials

• Shade - checked to be within tolerance of standard pattern.
• Delivery weights - checked and any shortfall claimed.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Machine Settings

• Tension - leveled and to specification.
• Distribution - K.O. Depth dials height - set to specification.
• Loop/course length - Run-in leveled and to specification, positive feed checked.
• Take-down tensions - checked for consistency.

Fabric Parameters, Fabric or Garment Blank Checks

• Shade and appearance correct jacquard pattern correct, absence of barrenness.
• Width normal - (this is only a guide with grey fabric).
• Fabric weights per square meter (or preferably weight per predetermined revs) -

checked to within tolerance of specification.
• Blank weight per dozen to be within tolerance of specification.
• Check fabric for faults and stains.
• Finishing loss - on-going record of losses on scouring etc.
• Accountability of knitters.

Sewing Checks

• Stitches per cm. and thread run-in ratio checked to be within tolerance of
specification.

• Evenness, balance and correct bight, no stitching missed
• Extensibility and security correct (i.e. no cracking or laddering).
• Absence of skip stitching.
• Accountability of machinist.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Final Inspection

• Shade correct and not varying from one part of garment to another.
• Cut is correct - e.g. neck, collar and sleeves balanced, pockets correct.
• Measurements within tolerance of specification, weight correct.
• Appearance correct, patterns matching.
• Seams finished correctly, absence of miss stitching, cracking and laddering.
• Accessories correctly applied and working.
• Absence of fabric faults and stains.
• Correct labeling.
• Accountability of making-up (volume of work unsatisfactory; break-down under

various fault categories.)

Recovery Inspection

• Check whether remedial works satisfactory.
• Check on volume of work successfully recovered.
• Avoidance of work recycling.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Product Tests

• Color fastness to agreed agencies: (e.g. washing, rubbing, perspiration, lights) -
checked and on-going continuity cards generated, showing rating, checked
against specification.

• Stability:
• Shrinkage, and extension recovery where needed - to be within tolerance of

specification
• Endurance:
• Abrasion, pilling or snagging - tested where needed. Rating checked against

specification
• Flammability:
• Performance rating in appropriate test checked against specification. -

Fiber Checks

• Fiber analysis:
• As specified for correct labeling
• Fiber quality:

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Co-efficient of friction:
• Test and compare to specification

Oil content:
• When records of finishing loss, yarn utilization, count, grey weights, or finished
weights abnormal, oil content checked; and also if yarn running abnormally.
Content figure to be within tolerance of specification.

Accessories Checks:
• Shade and size checked to be correct (e.g. buttons)

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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• Stability (e.g. linings and trims and zip tapes) within tolerance of specification.
Extensibility and modulus (e.g. binding and elastic) within tolerance of
specification. Items work properly (e.g. zips)

• Sewing threads, correct shade, ticket number and sews normally

Boxed Stock Audits
• Goods in warehouse - sample checked for quality and faults.
• Goods rejected - check to see if correctly rejected.

Machine Efficiency
• Ratio of knitting time or goods produced compared with basis if no down-time.
Provides measure of machine performance - analyzed against knitter, machinist,
fabric quality, garment style and yarn. -

Material Utilization
• Fabric Utilization
• As with machine efficiency, checks on process performance.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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Analyzed against operation section, style, fabric or yarn.

QUALITY CONTROL RECORDS

The above data, immediately on being generated, is automatically entered on records as
continuity charts, either in tabular, graphical or computerized form. This action takes very
little time, and enables the current data to be compared with previous data and with other
related Q. C. data. The visual impact of the presentation is immediate and creates rapid
feed-back of vital information to production and other interested management personnel.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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SELF-CHECK #3
LO3. Maintain records
Directions: Check your mastery by completing the question below:
Question:

Why is it important to maintain record?

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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ANSWER KEY #3

LO3. Maintain records

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to the
corresponding resources until you make it perfect

Answer:

Records are beneficial for future reference if the garment will have a second order or a
similar project will come along.

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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OPERATION SHEET

OPERATION TITLE: Maintain Record.

PURPOSE: To be able to gather all data in the production for future
reference.

CONDITIONS OR A quite, clean, well ventilated and lighted room where the

SITUATIONS FOR fashion designer can evaluate the garment properly.

THE OPERATION:

EQUIPMENT, Supplies needed for this lesson:
TOOLS AND
MATERIALS: • Spec sheet
• Material info sheet
• Labor info sheet
• Patterns
• Designs
• Evaluation form
• Envelope
• Pen & paper

PROCEDURE: 1. Make final report
2. Gather all record and report from different department
3. Put it in a brown envelope
4. Label the envelope
5. Keep envelope for future reference

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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FINAL REPORT

NO ITEM PRICE REMARKS
1 MATERIAL 80
2 LABOR 100 CHEAPER BY
BULK

BETTER IF
OPERATIONAL

PRECAUTIONS: Exercise caution on not to mix up records and forms

QUALITY CRITERIA: 1. Fashion designer should have an eye for details.
2. Fashion designer should know necessary steps on how
to file records

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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JOB SHEET Maintain record
Evaluating the final product
JOB TITLE:
UNIT: The student will gather data and maintain record
READING:
OBJECTIVES: Supplies needed for this lesson:
LABORATORY WORK:

• Sketches
• Used pattern
• Report from sewing department
• Report from Procurement department
• Spec sheet for each garment
• Evaluation worksheet
• Brown envelope
• marker

Make final report.
Keep report in a brown envelope
Label envelope for future reference
File

FINAL REPORT

NO ITEM PRICE REMARKS
1 MATERIAL 80
CHEAPER BY
2 LABOR 100 BULK

BETTER IF
OPERATIONAL

EVALUATION: Teacher examination and inspection, using the
following criteria;
Code No.
1. All steps were completed in the correct
sequence.

2. All done neatly and clearly.
3. Fashion designer is keen on details.
4. All information were gathered properly

Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

42

PERFORMANCE TEST

Learner's Name Date
Competency:
Test Attempt
1st 2nd 3rd

Directions: OVERALL EVALUATION

CALL INSTRUCTOR, ask Level PERFORMANCE LEVELS
instructor to assess your Achieved
performance in the
following critical task and 4 - Can perform this skill without supervision and with
performance criteria below initiative and adaptability to problem situations.

You will be rated based on 3 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily without
the overall evaluation on assistance or supervision.
the right side.
2 - Can perform this skill satisfactorily but requires
some assistance and/or supervision.

1 - Can perform parts of this skill satisfactorily, but
requires considerable assistance and/or supervision.

Instructor will initial level achieved.

PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
For acceptable achievement, all items should receive a "Yes" Yes No N/A
or "N/A" response.

1. Were all steps completed in the correct sequence?

2. Are all steps done neatly and clearly.
3. Do the fashion designer keen on details?
4. Are all information gathered properly?

Code No. Evaluating Finished Garments Date: Developed Date: Revised Page #

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