Drafting basic/block pattern

WEB SCRIPT Garments
Sector: Dressmaking NCII
Qualification: Draft and Cut Pattern for Casual Apparel
Unit of Competency: Drafting Basic/Block Pattern
Module Title: Draft Basic/Block Pattern
Learning Outcomes: Christian Domingo Dacoron
Developer/s:

TITLE Draft and Cut Pattern for Casual Apparel
OBJECTIVES
At the end of this module, you should be able to:
1. Select the correct Drafting tools to be used
2. Draft Basic Front and Back Bodice Sloper using customer’s
specification
3. Draft the Sleeve Sloper using customer’ specification
4. Draft Basic Skirt Sloper using customer’s specification
5. Draft Basic /Block Pattern of a Short-Sleeve Blouse using Customer’s
specification
6. Draft Basic/Block Pattern of a Straight-Cut Skirt using customer’s
specification

INTRODUCTION This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes in drafting and cutting
patterns of casual apparel. It details the requirements for planning garment
LESSON 1 design, taking body measurements, drafting basic/block pattern, manipulating
TOPIC 1 and cutting final pattern.

Draft Basic/Block Pattern

Selection of Drafting Tools

TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

INTRODUCTION

Well selected sewing tools and equipment’s are essential for making a garment
of good appearance. These are usually available at each and every home, as these tools
are helpful for women in Garment making. Tools for clothing construction can be
classified as; MEASURING TOOL, DRAFTING TOOL, MARKING TOOL, CUTTING TOOL,
STITCHING TOOL and PRESSING TOOL.

PIN CUSHION
- A cotton-stuffed cloth cut and sew in many different shapes to

keep the pins in place. It will help you work conveniently when
placed on your waist.

EMERY BAG
- Used for thrusting needles and pins. They sharpens the

needles and removes rust.

PINS WITH HEAD
- Used when cutting and sewing material. Helps save time in

basting. Dull-pointed and rusted pins should not be used because
they will destroy the fabric.

BROWN SHEET/PATTERN PAPER
-It is better to draft paper pattern on a brown sheet with correct

body measurement than drafting and cutting directly on the fabric.
The pattern is pinned over the fabric, marked and then stitched after
cutting, which will prevent wastage of fabric.

DRESS MODEL/BODY FORM
- The measurement of the model dress must be same as the

measurement of the wearer for whom the dress should be made. Instead
of taking measurement from the model or person, the dress which suits
well and fits correctly can be used as an aid for measurement.

WOODEN TABLE/CUTTING TABLE
- This would be of convenient height and size for drafting and

cutting fabric. 3 feet width and 5 feet length is a desirable size of the
table and the height can be about 2.5 feet.

L SQUARE
- The L square is one of the most basic of the pattern making rulers.

This ruler helps to create accurate 90 degree angles and straight edges. It
measures, rules ad squares simultaneously.

HIP CURVE
- The hip curve helps to shape the hip line, hem and lapels

FRENCH CURVE
-Essential tool for accurately shaping armholes, necklines and

collars

TAPE MEASURE
-Is made from fabric or flexible fiberglass, It is used to take body

measurements and measures fabric and pattern pieces. Tapes should
be sturdy and non-stretch. Are usually 60 inches long.

TAILOR CHALK
-Is used to transfer the marks from the pattern to the fabrics. A

more expensive brand function better because it is stronger and works
properly.

PENCIL WITH ERASER
-Is helpful in marking pattern in fabrics with light colors as well

as in drafting of patterns.

TRACING WHEEL
-Is used to transfer seam lines, dark lines and seam allowances.

TRACING PAPER
-Functions like carbon paper. Tracing papers are categorized

into black and white depending upon the color to be traced.

Topic 2: Drafting Basic
Foundaton of Ladies
Blouse

Drafting the Foundation Patterns for Ladies’ Blouse
When constructing ladies blouse, you should draft first the foundation pattern. A
foundation pattern is also called a Block Pattern or Sloper using the individual body
measurements. It helps styling and designing the garment easy.
Drafting the Back and Front Sloper
In drafting back and front sloper, we have to make the preliminary steps;

1. Prepare half-sheet of pattern paper.
2. Measure 2” (5cm) from the top edge and draw

a long straight horizontal line.
3. From the side edge of the pattern paper,

measure ¼ of the bust measurement plus 2”
(5cm). Draw a long straight vertical line.
4. Measure and mark the following on the
pattern paper.

a. Mark the point where the vertical and
horizontal line meets, as point 1.

b. From point 1, measure ¾ (2cm) down
and mark as 2.

c. From point 1, measure 4” (10cm)
down and mark as 3.

d. From point 1, measure 5” ½ (14cm) down and mark as 4.
e. From point 2, get the bust point height measurement and mark as 5.
f. From point 1, get the back figure measurement and mark as 6.
g. From point 2, get the front figure measurement and mark as 7.
h. Get the length of points 2 to 7 (divided by 2), measure and mark as 8.
i. Square to the right the points 2,3,4,8,5, and 7.
j. Square to the left the points 4,8 and 6.

DRAFTING THE BACK BODICE (Step-by-Step Guide)
1. Get the half of the neck back measurement.
Then from point 1 going left, measure and mark
as 8B. Connect 8B and point 2 using a French
curve. This is the neck back of the pattern.
2. From point 1 going left, get the half of the
shoulder measurement plus 5/8 (1.5cm) and
mark as 9B. Square down 9B.
3. From 9B, measure 1” 3/8 (3.5cm) down and
mark as 10B. Connect the markings 8B and 10B.
This is the new shoulder slope.
4. From point 4, measure half of the shoulder
measurement going left minus 5/8 (1.5cm),
mark as 11B.
5. From point 8, measure ¼ of the bust
measurement plus 5/8 (1.5cm) going left, mark
as 12B.
6. Connect the markings 10B, 11B and 12B using a
French curve. This is the back armhole.
7. From point 8, measure half of the bust point width going left, mark as 13B.
8. From point 6, measure half of the bust point width going left, mark as 14B.
Connect the markings 13B and 14B. This is the center waist dart.
9. From point 6, measure ¼ of the waist measurement plus 1” 1/8 (3cm) going
left, mark as 15B. Connect the markings 12B and 15B. This is the side of the
back pattern.
10. From 14B marking, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) going right and mark as 16B.
11. From 14B marking, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) going left and mark as 17B.
12. From 13B marking, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) going down, mark as 18B.
13. Connect the markings 16B going to 18B and, 17B going to 18B. This is the back
waist dart of the pattern.
14. Get the half of the length of markings 8B and 10B, measure and mark as 19B.
15. Square down 19B for about 2 15/16 (7.5cm) and mark as 22B.
16. From the 19B marking, measure ¼ (.5cm) going left and mark as 20B, same
procedure on the right and mark as 21B.
17. Connect the markings 20B going to 22B and 21B going to 22B.This is the
shoulder dart of the pattern.
18. On the waist, fold 17B over 16B to form a waist dart. Make a new waist line
connecting 15B and point 6.
19. On the shoulder slope, fold 20B over 21B to form a shoulder dart. Make a new
shoulder slope by connecting the markings 8B and 10B.
20. Lastly, measure the length of the 12B and 15B (side of the back bodice) for this
will be the length basis for the front side of the bodice.

DRAFTING THE FRONT BODICE (Step-by-Step Guide)
1. From point 2 going right, measure and mark
8F using the half of the neck back
measurement. Connect the marking 8F going
to point 3 using a French curve. This is the
front neck of the bodice.
2. From point 2 going right, measure and mark
9F using the half of the shoulder
measurement.
3. Square down 9F for about 1 ¾ (4.5cm), mark
as 10F. Connect the markings 8F and 10F. This
is the front shoulder slope of the bodice.
4. From point 4 going right, measure and mark
11F using the half of the shoulder
measurement minus ¾ (2cm).
5. From the point 8 going right, measure and
mark 12F using the ¼ of the bust
measurement plus 1”. Connect 10F, 11F and
12F using a French curve. This is the front
armhole of the bodice.
6. From point 5 going right, measure and mark 13F using the half of the bust
point width measurement.
7. From point 7 going right, measure and mark 14F using the half of the bust
point width measurement. Connect the markings 13F and 14F to form a center
line dart.
8. From point 7 going right, measure and mark 15F using the ¼ of the waist
measurement plus 1 ½ (4cm). Connect the markings 12F and 15F.
9. From 14F marking going right, measure ¾ (2cm) and mark as 16F.
10. From 14F marking going left, measure ¾ (2cm) and mark as 17F.
11. From 13F marking downward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) and mark as 18F.
12. Connect the markings 16F going to 18F, and 17F going to 18F. This is the front
waist dart.
13. On the front side of the bodice, measure 3 1/8 (8cm) downward from the
marking 12F, mark as 19F.
14. Get the distance between points 6 and 7, use this measurement and mark as
20F from the marking 19F downward.
15. Divide the distance between the markings 19F and 20F, measure and mark as
21F. Connect the markings 21F and 13F.
16. From the marking 13F, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) and mark as 22F.
17. Connect the markings 19F going to 22F, and 20F going to 22F. This is the side
dart of the front bodice.
18. Fold the marking 19F over 20F to form a dart. Make a new side of the front
bodice by connecting the markings 12F and 15F.
19. On the waist part, fold the markings 16F and 17F to form a dart and draw a
new waistline by connecting the markings 15F and point 7.
20. Please note, the distance from the side of the back bodice (12B-15B) should be
equal to the side of the front bodice (12F-15F) when the side dart is folded. If
not, make the necessary adjustment.

DRAFTING THE SLEEVE SLOPER (Step-by-Step Guide)
1. Measure the front and back armhole of the
drafted bodice, then divide it into two to get
the half of the armhole measurement.
2. Prepare and fold pattern paper, make sure it
has enough space when drafting the sleeve
pattern.
3. Measure 1 1/8 (3cm) from the top edge of
the pattern paper and draw a straight
horizontal line.
4. Mark the point where the line and the fold part meet, as point 1.
5. From point 1 downward, measure the sleeve length and mark as point 2.
6. From point 1 downward, measure 5” (13cm). Square to the right points 2 and
3.
7. From point 1 going right, measure 3/8 (1cm) and mark as point 4.
8. From point 1, diagonally measure the half of the armhole (distance of front
and back armhole divided into two) and mark as point 5. Connect points 1 and
5.
9. Divide the distance between points 1 and 5 into four equal parts, marks as 6,
7, 8.
10. From point 6 going upward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm), mark as 9.
11. From point 8 going downward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm), mark as 10.
12. Connect the points 1, 9, 7, 10 and 5 using a French curve for the front cap.
13. From point 7 going upward, measure 3/8 (1cm) and mark as 11.
14. Divide the distance between points 8 and 10 into two, mark as 12.
15. Connect the points 1, 4, 9, 11, 12 and 5 using a French curve for the back cap.
16. From point 2 going right, measure and mark 13 using the arm girth
measurement plus 1” (2.5cm).
17. Connect points 5 and 13 using a foot ruler.
18. Trace the sleeve pattern into another pattern paper for the back part

TOPIC 3: Draft Pattern of DRAFTING PATTERN FOR BASIC SKIRT
Ladies Skirt and Blouse In drafting back and front skirt pattern, we have to make the preliminary steps;

1. Prepare half-sheet of pattern paper.
2. Measure 2” (5cm) from the top edge of the

pattern paper and draw a long straight
horizontal line.
3. Find the middle of the line, and draw a long
straight vertical line.
4. Mark the point where the line meets as point
1.
5. Measure and mark the following on the pattern paper.

a) Point 1 is the starting point.
b) From point 1 downward, measure 3/8 (1cm), mark as point 2.
c) From point 1 downward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm), mark as point 3.
d) From point 1 downward, measure 7” (18cm), mark as point 4.
e) From point 1 downward, measure the skirt length, mark as point 5.
f) Use the distance between points 1 to 4 and divide it into two, measure

and mark as point 6.
g) Square out to the right, points 3, 6, 4 and 5.
h) Square out to the left, points 2, 6, 4 and 5.

DRAFTING THE BACK OF BASIC SKIRT PATTERN
1. From point 1 going left, measure the ¼ of the
waist measurement plus 1 1/8 (3cm), mark as
7B
2. From point 4 going left, measure the ¼ of the
second hip measurement plus 3/8 (1cm),
mark as 8B.
3. From point 5 going left, measure the ¼ of the
second hip measurement plus 3/8 (1cm),
mark as 9B.
4. From point 1 going left, measure the half of
the bust point width, mark as 10B.
5. From 10B marking downward, measure 5 ½
(14cm), mark as 11B.
6. From 10B marking, measure 5/8 (1.5cm) both
side and mark as 13B (left side) and 12B (right
side).
7. Connect the markings 11B to 12B, and 11B to
13B.
8. Fold mark 12B over 13B to form a waist dart. Draw a new waistline by
connecting the marking 7B to point 2 using a hip curve.
9. Draw the side of the skirt by connecting 7B to 8B using a hip curve, and 8B to
9B using a foot ruler.

DRAFTING THE FRONT OF BASIC SKIRT PATTERN
1. From point 1 going right, measure and mark 7F using the ¼ waist
measurement plus 1 ½ (4cm).
2. From point 4 going right, measure and mark 8F using the ¼ second hip
measurement plus 5/8 (1.5cm).
3. From point 5 going right, measure and mark 9F using the ¼ second hip
measurement plus 5/8 (1.5cm).
4. From point 1 going right, measure and mark 10F
using the half of the bust point width.
5. From 10F marking downward, measure 5 ¼
(13cm) and mark as 11F.
6. From 10F marking, measure 3/4 (2cm) both side
and mark as 13F (left side) and 12F (right side).
7. Connect the markings 11F to 12F, and 11F to
13F.
8. Fold mark 12F over 13F to form a waist dart.
Draw a new waistline by connecting the marking
7F to point 3 using a hip curve.
9. Draw the side of the skirt by connecting 7F to 8F
using a hip curve, and 8F to 9F using a foot ruler.

FRONT PART BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN FOR BLOUSE

1. Prepare ½ sheet of

paper.

2. From the top edge,

measure at least 2”

and draw a

horizontal line. This

is for the shoulder

allowance.

3. From the side edge,

measure 6” and

draw a vertical line.

This is for the

extended facing.

4. Fold the pattern

along the vertical

line.

5. Measure ¾” from

the folded edge for

the buttonhole

allowance.

6. Trace the front

bodice.

 Align the

Task Sheet 3.1 shoulder on the

horizontal line.

 Align the

center front

edge on the

line created for ** French Dart is
the buttonhole. folded.
 Trace the

bodice and the darts.

7. Measure 6-7” from the neck to the center front to create a V-shape neckline.

8. From the waistline downward, measure 7” and draw a horizontal line. This is the

hipline.

 Measure ¾” from the hipline along the folded edge to create a curve hem line.

9. Measure ¼ of the hip measurement plus 3/8” going right and connect to the waist.

Create the side seam.

10. Make a hip dart.

 Extend the center line dart by 5” downward or up to the hem and shape the

dart arm.

11. Shape the extended facing.

 Measure 2” from the neck along the shoulder slope.

 Measure 2 ¾ from the center front edge along the waistline and square down

to the hem.

 Shape the extended facing using a hip curve connecting the marks from the

shoulder slope to the waistline.

 Trace on the folded facing.

12. Finalize the pattern by adding allowances.
- Shoulder ½”

- Side 1”
- Armhole ½”
- Neckline ½”
- Hem 1” ½

BACK PART BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN FOR BLOUSE

1. From the top edge,
measure at least 2”
and draw a horizontal
line. This is for the
shoulder allowance.

2. Align the center back
on the side edge of
the pattern.

3. Trace the back bodice.
 Align the
shoulder on
the horizontal
line.
 Trace the
bodice and the
darts.

4. From the waistline
downward, measure
7” and draw a
horizontal line. This is
the hipline.

5. Measure ¼ of the hip
measurement plus
3/8” going left and
connect to this to the
waist to create the
side seam.

6. Make a hip dart.
 Extend the center line dart by 5” downward or up to the hem and
shape the dart arm.

7. Finalize the pattern by adding allowances.
- Shoulder ½”
- Side 1”
- Armhole ½”
- Neckline ½”
- Hem 1” ½

SET-IN SLEEVE

19. Measure the front
and back armhole
of the drafted
bodice, then divide
it into two to get
the half of the
armhole
measurement.

20. Prepare and fold
pattern paper,
make sure it has
enough space when
drafting the sleeve
pattern.

21. Measure 1 1/8 (3cm) from the top edge of the pattern paper and draw a
straight horizontal line.

22. Mark the point where the line and the fold part meet, as point 1.
23. From point 1 downward, measure the sleeve length and mark as point

2.
24. From point 1 downward, measure 5” (13cm). Square to the right points

2 and 3.
25. From point 1 going right, measure 3/8 (1cm) and mark as point 4.
26. From point 1, diagonally measure the half of the armhole (distance of

front and back armhole divided into two) and mark as point 5. Connect
points 1 and 5.
27. Divide the distance between points 1 and 5 into four equal parts, marks
as 6, 7, 8.
28. From point 6 going upward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm), mark as 9.
29. From point 8 going downward, measure 5/8 (1.5cm), mark as 10.
30. Connect the points 1, 9, 7, 10 and 5 using a French curve for the front
cap.
31. From point 7 going upward, measure 3/8 (1cm) and mark as 11.
32. Divide the distance between points 8 and 10 into two, mark as 12.
33. Connect the points 1, 4, 9, 11, 12 and 5 using a French curve for the
back cap.
34. From point 2 going right, measure and mark 13 using the arm girth
measurement plus 1” (2.5cm).
35. Connect points 5 and 13 using a foot ruler.
36. Trace the sleeve pattern into another pattern paper for the back part

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR

** To find the length of the neckline, measure the neckline front and back
bodice pattern minus ½ “
1. Prepare a folded pattern paper enough for the collar.
2. Begin at the folded edge.

A – Starting point
A-B - 3 inches
C-A - Length of the collar
C-E - 1/2 inch
F - Center of the distance between A and C
D-G - 1 inches. Connect D-E
F-E - Connect

Download and Perform the Task Sheet 3.1

Task Sheet 3.2 FRONT PART BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN

 From the top edge
go down 2” and
draw a horizontal
line.

A-B ¼ of the Waist
measurement
B-C 1” forward
A-D ½” downward
I ½ of the Bust
point width
I-K ½” backward
I-L ½” forward
J 5” from I fro short
figure

5 ½” for medium
height figure

6” for tall figure
A-E 7” for second hip
level measurement
E-F 1/4 of the Second
hip measurement
A-G Skirt length
G-H ¼ of the Second
hip measurement
G-M 1/2” downward

** Connect the marks
D-C make a temporary
dart by folding the

line of K-J over L-
J

use a hip curve to connect D-C
this is the new Waistline
C-F use a hip curve
F-H use a ruler
M-H use a hip curve

BACK PART BASIC/BLOCK PATTERN

 From the top edge
measure 2” and draw
a horizontal line.

 From the side edge
measure 1” and draw
a vertical line. This is
for Zipper Allowance.

A-B ¼ of the Waist
measurement
B-C 1” forward
A-D ½” downward
I ½ of the Bust point
width
I-K ½” backward
I-L ½” forward
J 5” from I fro short
figure

5 ½” for medium
height figure

6” for tall figure
A-E 7” for second hip
level measurement
E-F 1/4 of the Second
hip measurement
A-G Skirt length
G-H ¼ of the Second hip
measurement

** Connect the marks
D-C make a temporary dart by folding the

line of K-J over L-J
use a hip curve to connect D-C
this is the new Waistline
C-F use a hip curve
F-H use a ruler

HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERN FOR A WAISTBAND

A Starting point
A-B Waistline measurement
B-C 3” forward
A-D 1 ¼” downward
C-E 1 ¼” downward
D-F 1 ¼” downward
E-G 1 ¼” downward
** Connect the lines as illustrated

HOW TO DRAFT THE INTERFACING FOR A WAISTBAND

A Starting point. Draw a horizontal and vertical line
A-B Waistline measurement
B-C 3” forward
C-D 1” forward
A-E 1 ¼” downward
D-F 1 ¼” downward
** Connect all lines as illustrated
** Draft the pattern directly on the interfacing
Download and Perform Task Sheet 3.2