Preparing and cutting materials for casual apparel - prepare materials (fabric)

WEB SCRIPT Garments
Sector:
Qualification: Dressmaking NC II
Unit of Competency:
Module Title: Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual Apparel
Learning Outcomes:
Developer/s: Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual Apparel
TITLE
OBJECTIVES Prepare Materials(Fabric)
INTRODUCTION
Nenita S. Pastrano and Belinda J. Ignacio
TOPIC 1
Selection of Fabrics and Accessories
At the end of this unit, you should be able to:

1. differentiate types of fibers;
2. understand the proper care for different fabrics in your wardrobe.

Fabric is a flat-film mass made up of fine-soft objects through intersecting,
winding, and joining. After many yarns constitute a stable relationship, it forms
the fabric. Intersecting, winding and joining are three relationships that can
make the yarns to form a stable structure. Fabrics are products made with
different techniques such as knitting, weaving, crochet, etc. However, all over
the world, the fabric refers to the fabric used to make the dresses.
Textile fibers are those fibers which can be spun into a yarn or made into a
fabric by interlacing, or interlooping in a variety of machines including weaving,
knitting, braiding, felting, bonding, etc.

Types of Fibers

1. Natural fibers are those fibers which are available from the natural sources
like plants, animals, minerals, etc. The mineral fibers are also referred as
miscellaneous inorganic fibers.

2. Manmade fibers known as Manufactured fiber. Synthetic or man-made fibers
generally come from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals. But some
types of synthetic fibers are manufactured from natural cellulose; including
rayon, modal, and the more recently developed Lyocell.

TOPIC 2 Fabric Properties and Characteristics

1. Cotton fabric is one of the most popular fabrics in the world, and one of the
oldest.
Properties and characteristics:

• Easy to care for and clean
• Comfortable to wear in all climates
• Breathable and moisture wicking
• Easy to handle and sew
• Takes dye easily
• Resists abrasion

2. Linen fabric is made from flax of plant.
Properties and characteristics:
• It is very comfortable and breathable
• does not pill or stretch
• resists wear from abrasion as well as dirt.
• Washable

3. Wool fabric is a soft fabric with a fuzzy texture. Its fiber derived from fleece of
sheep.

Properties and characteristics:
• Great absorbancy
• Insulating capacity and Climate control
• Natural wrinkle resistance and recovery
• Resilient and durable
• Resists static, dirt and dust and even mildew
• Water repellent

4. Polyester is a synthetic fabric that’s usually derived from petroleum.

Properties and characteristics:
• Resistant to stretching and shrinkage
• Washable or dry-cleanable
• Quick drying
• Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set)
• Abrasion resistant
• Resistant to most chemicals

TOPIC 3 Types of Garment Accessories

1. Visible accessories:
Visible accessories can be seen from outside of the garments e.g. button,
sewing thread, zipper, velcro, etc.

Sewing threads Buttons

Zipper Velcro tape

Bias tape Lace

2. Invisible accessories: They cannot be seen from outside of the garments e.g.
interlining.

Shoulder pads Hook and eye closure

Interlining Interfacing

TOPIC 4 Care for different fabrics in your Wardrobe

1. Cotton:
• Since cotton is quite durable, you can relax knowing the washing

machine won't cause any adverse effects.
• Wash cotton clothing in warm (not hot) water, using colour-safe

detergent.
• To keep cotton towels fluffy and soft to the touch, use half the

recommended amount of detergent, and give them an extra rinse at the

end of the cycle.
• Tumble dry low or dry naturally to prevent shrinking.
• Synthetic fabrics (rayon, nylon, acrylics, spandex, and polyester):
• Synthetic fabrics are also easy to maintain - just turn them inside-out, pop

them in the wash and use regular detergent.

• Tumble dry low, just as you would with cotton.
• For nylon clothing, you might want to consider using fabric softener to

prevent static electricity.

2. Linen
• Never wash linen clothing at a temperature of more than 60 degrees

Celsius by doing so, you risk causing premature wear.
• Separate colours from light, white linens. Dyes can easily bleed through

and ruin pure white linen.
• Use non-bleach stain remover prior to laundering. Bleach will weaken

fibres in the fabric and ruin dyed clothes.
• Try to remove stains immediately, if possible. (This rule applies to most

fabrics.)
• Wash table linens and towels separately, otherwise clothes will come out

covered in lint.
• When washing linen clothing, fill your machine only halfway. This fabric

needs a little more water than others to get clean.
• Always hang your linens out to dry. Tumble drying them will cause

creases and shrinkage.

3. Silk
• Hand wash silk clothing, using a gentle soap.
• Hang it out to dry.
• Never iron silk clothing - it will burn the fabric.

4. Wool
• Avoid frequent washes, as this will shorten the life of your wool clothing

and wear the fabric out prematurely.
• Wool is an especially delicate fabric, so treat it with care.
• Soak wool in cold water prior to washing in soapy water. This will help

prevent shrinkage.
• When washing is absolutely necessary, use a delicate setting with cold or

lukewarm water.
• If possible, it’s best to hand wash wool items. Always dry it naturally -

tumble drying will ruin your clothes.
• Use specially-made wool detergent to get the fabric clean and fresh.

5. Spandex Fabric
• Avoid hot water and chlorine bleach.
• Hang spandex garments to dry, and avoid machine drying.

6. Polyester Fabric
• Machine washed using warm water, but check the care label first.
• Tumble dry polyester garments on low heat.



WEB SCRIPT Garments
Sector:
Qualification: Dressmaking NC II
Unit of Competency:
Module Title: Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual Apparel
Learning Outcomes:
Developer/s: Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual Apparel

TITLE Lay-out and mark pattern on the material
OBJECTIVES
INTRODUCTION Nenita S. Pastrano and Belinda J. Ignacio

TOPIC 1 PREPARATION OF FABRIC BEFORE CUTTING
At the end of this unit, you should be able to:
1.identify the methods for straightening, soaking and drying fabrics; and
2.understand the principles of pattern layout.

It is essential that you prepare all fabric before cutting it out in order to
achieve a better fit and a more professional look. Different fabrics will need
different care and the label on the fabric bolt will tell you whether the fabric
is washable, dry-cleanable, or if it will shrink.

Steps in preparing fabrics

A.Wash and dry the fabric
• The label should tell you whether the fabric has been preshrunk by the

manufacturer, or if it will shrink and how much it will shrink.
• If the fabric has not yet been preshrunk, and the label says it will shrink more

than 1% you should preshrink it before cutting.
• To preshrink washable fabric, simply wash and dry it in the same way

you would after the garment is finished.
• To preshrink dry-cleanable fabrics use a steam iron and move the iron

horizontally or vertically across the grain of the fabric.

Wash and dry fabric

B. Press the fabric
• To remove excessive wrinkles and creases, press on the wrong side of the

material in line with the threads.
• Iron horizontally or vertically across the grain of the fabric. Do not go

over diagonally because this will distort the fabric. After steaming the
fabric, allow it to dry on a smooth and flat surface until completely dry.

C. Check if the fabric is on grain

• The fabric may have been pulled off grain during production and need to be
straighten before you cut it.

TOPIC 2 Methods for straightening the fabrics

1. Tear Method – to snip and tear the crosswise ends of the fabric. This is
done only for firmly woven fabrics of even wave.

2. Pull threads Method – to pull the thread along the entire edge and then cut
along the drawn thread.

TOPIC 3 Soaking and drying method

A. Soaking fabric – to immerse fabric in liquid for a period of time.
Ways to soak fabric
• Fold fabric wrong side out enough for the size of the basin.
• Fill basin with enough water to submerge the folded fabric.
• Push deep the fabric completely covered with water.
• Let the cloth soak. The length of time depends on the fabric;

Denim can be soaked for hours while wool, cotton, silk and linen for at least
30 minutes.

Fill basin with enough water to submerge the folded fabric

Push deep the fabric completely covered with water

Let the cloth soak. The length of time depends on the fabric

B. Drying fabric – a mass transfer process consisting of the removal of water
or another solvent by evaporation from a solid, semi-solid, or liquid.
Methods for Drying Fabric
1. Hydro – extraction bysqueezing
• the fabric is squeezed by means of a padding machine

through 2 or 3 rollers covered with rubber.

2. Hydro – extraction by suction
• the fabric is transforted flat over a “suction drum” which is linked to a pump.

3. Centrifugal hydro- extractor
• the most efficient method for mechanical water removal but it cannot applied

to delicate fabrics prone to permanent creases.

4. Air dryer – use in fabric processing.

ACTIVITY Task Sheet
TOPIC 4
Title: Perform soaking and drying fabric before cutting

Performance Objective: Given the supplies, materials, tools and equipment,
you should be able to:

• follow the step/ procedure in soaking fabric

Supplies/Materials: Fabric, basin/pail, clothline, water

Safety Reminders!
In performing this activity, you must practice occupational health and

safety procedures at all times.

Step/ procedure in soaking fabric:

1.Fold fabric wrong side out enough for the size of the basin.
2.Fill basin with enough water to submerge the folded fabric.
3.Push deep the fabric completely covered with water.
4.Let the cloth soak. The length of time depends on the fabric; Denim can be
soaked for hours while wool, cotton, silk and linen for at least 30 minutes.
5. Hang the fabric wrong side out.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration

Determining the right and wrong sides of fabric

1. Prints are clearer and brighten on the right side.

2. Selvedge is smoother on the right side.

3. Loose thread ends can be found at the wrong side.

4. Fabrics are folded right side out.

TITLE PATTERN LAYOUT AND MARKINGS
INTRODUCTION
TOPIC 1 Laying out your pattern on the fabric to prepare for cutting is an important step
that must be done carefully and accurately for great-looking results.
Pattern layout is the laying of pattern pieces over the fabric in an economical
way. This prevents wastage of fabric.
Principles of pattern layout
1.Press the fabric as well as the pattern pieces flat before laying the pattern on
the fabric.
2. Use a large table or any hard flat surface for accommodating the work.
3. If an open layout is used, place the fabric right side up on the table. For all
other layouts fold the fabric right sides facing and wrong sides out.
4. Decide on the best way to fold your cloth this will depend on the width of the
cloth, width of your pattern pieces, the type of cloth and design of the garment .
5. Straight grain lines on patterns must be kept parallel to the fabric selvedge.
To ensure this, measure and adjust the pattern so that both ends of the straight
grain line are the same distance from the selvedge and pin the pattern to the
fabric along the grain line arrows.
6. Fold lines on the patterns must be kept on folded edges of fabric.
7. Leave enough space between patterns for cutting outward notches and
marking seam allowance (if the patterns do not include seam allowances). Also
make sure that there is enough material left for cutting out belts, facings, etc. for
which you may not have made paper patterns.
8. The patterns must be placed on the fabric in the most economical way.
9. Pin patterns to the fabric firmly, after placement of the pattern has been
decided, pin the corners and the long outside edges of the patterns, placing
pins close to and approximately perpendicular to the cutting line. Use just
enough pins to keep the pattern in position. Too many pins will distort the

edges. You should start cutting the fabric only after pinning all the pattern
pieces.
10.Take care to use special layouts for asymmetric designs and for fabrics with
bold designs, striped and checked designs, designs going in one direction and
fabrics with nap and pile.



ACTIVITY TASK SHEET

Title: Layout patterns on the fabric

Performance Objective: Given the supplies, materials, tools and equipment,
you should be able to:

• follow the step/ procedure in laying out patterns on the fabric

Supplies/Materials: Fabric, cutting shears, pattern weights, tailors chalk,
dressmakers pins, final patterns

Equipment: Working table

Safety Reminders!
In performing this activity, you must practice occupational health and

safety procedures at all times.

Step/ procedure
1. Prepare the tools and materials needed.
2. Check the wrong and right sides of materials
3. Lay fabric on the table with wrong side out.
4. Arrange pattern pieces in an economical way (trial and error).
5. Pin pattern pieces towards the cutting edge of the pattern.
6. Call the trainer for final evaluation.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration

TOPIC 2 Different folds of fabric

1. Lengthwise fold is the easiest layout to work with the fold runs parallel
to the selvedge in the direction of the lengthwise threads.This is the
most frequently used fold. The layout for a simple frock on this type of
fold is illustrated in the figure.

2. Crosswise fold the fabric is spread open and then refolded on a line at
right angles to the selvedge and the direction of the crosswise
threads.This is suitable for materials that are too narrow to
accommodate the width of pattern pieces when folded lengthwise.

3. Combination fold - a combination of two of three of the common
layouts used to layout one pattern.

4. Double fold - fabric is spread open and then refolded so that the
selvedge edges meet each other.

5. Open layout- In this type of layout, the fabric is not folded at all.
hisis used especially for designs which regain right and left halves to be
cut separately.

TOPIC 3 Marking techniques
Marking devices for transferring the details of the paper draft to the fabric.

1. Tailor’s chalk is made of 2. Chalk in pencil form is used
china clay and is available in like a pencil and is ideal for
different colours. It is used for marking thin accurate lines.
marking the paper patterns This is used for marking
on the cloth. pleats, darts and buttonholes.

3. Tracing wheel is used for 4. Dressmaker’s carbon paper
transferring the pattern are mostly used for
markings on fabrics. But for transferring patterns. In
sheer fabrics and loosely embroidery, they are used for
woven fabrics, the tracing tracing designs. They are
wheel should be used with available in several colours
care; otherwise, the fabric including white.
may get damaged.

Marking Techniques
1. To mark two thickness of fabric with sides together, put pattern on top of
the fabric.

2. Place the tracing paper under the fabric, common side up and mark by
following the lines of the pattern with the tracing wheel.

3. When using a tracing wheel, move the wheel smoothly from one end to
the other to avoid several lines on the fabric.

4. Mark the center line of the dart first before marking the two outside lines.

WEB SCRIPT Garments
Sector:
Qualification: Dressmaking NC II
Unit of Competency:
Module Title: Prepare and Cut Materials for Casual Apparel
Learning Outcomes:
Developer/s: Preparing and Cutting Materials for Casual Apparel

TITLE Cut materials
OBJECTIVES
Nenita S. Pastrano and Belinda J. Ignacio
INTRODUCTION
PROCEDURE FOR CUTTING
TOPIC 1 At the end of this unit, you should be able to:

1. identify cutting devices
2. follow the procedure for cutting materials (fabric).

Accuracy in cutting and marking is necessary to construct a garment that
duplicates the design and size of the pattern. Cutting devices/equipment should
be selected and used with maximum accuracy. A slight change in cut results in
huge fitting problems. These tools must be selected and maintained properly in
order to use them effectively.

1. Do not lift fabric off the table.
2. Keep one blade of the shears resting on the table.
3. Use long slashes with the cutting scissors in preference to short, choppy
ones.
4. Never use pinking shears for cutting out a garment, for they are difficult to
handle and there is a danger of inaccuracy with such bulky scissors.
5. Cut exactly along the cutting line on the altered pattern line.
6. Curves are especially important, so cut them with great care.
7. When all pieces have been cut, fold them over a hanger to prevent wrinkling
and to save pressing.
8. Cut notches away from seam line. Notches help to watch garment sections
during construction.
9. Leave pattern pinned to fabric sections.
10 Cut the garment parts from wide to narrow areas of each pattern piece.

TOPIC 2 Procedure in cutting fabric

1. Cut the selvedge off. In some cases, it may have a clean, finished edge.
In other cases, it may look frayed.

2. Square the fabric to restore the original shape. Pull on the top left and
bottom right corners, then pull on the top right and bottom left corners.

3. Pin the pattern to the fabric. Spread the fabric out on a flat surface and
smooth out all of the wrinkles. Pin the pattern to the fabric Pay attention
to the grain lines on the pattern. They need to be parallel to the
grain/selvage edge of your fabric.

4. Trace around the pattern paper. Use colored tailor's chalk if the fabric is
light, and white tailor's chalk if the fabric is dark.

5. Cut along the lines you traced using fabric scissors. Use one hand to
hold the fabric steady, and the other hand to cut the fabric.

ACTIVITY Task Sheet

Title: Cut the fabric

Performance Objective: Given the supplies, materials and equipment, you
should be able to:

• Follow the steps/procedure in cutting fabric

Supplies/Materials: : Cutting shears, fabrics, dressmakers pin, tailors chalk,
final patterns

Equipment: Working table

Safety Reminders!
In performing this activity, you must practice occupational health and

safety procedures at all times.

Step/ Procedure in cutting fabric
1. Prepare the tools and materials needed.
2. Cut pattern pieces exactly on the cutting lines.
3. Trace seam lines and put necessary symbols and markings.
4. Call the trainer for final evaluation.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration