Core Competencies UC7: Fabricating and installing roofing system

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome 3. LAYOUT TRUSS LOCATION AND ELEVATION

Learning activities Special Instructions

1. Read Information Sheet 7.3-1 Green
Building Concept relative to
Construction (5S)

2. Answer self-check for 7.3-1

3. Refer your answer to answer key 7.3-1

4. Read Information Sheet 7.3-2 If you have some problem on the
Methods and techniques in content of the information sheet don’t
measurements hesitate to approach your facilitator.

5. Do Job Sheet 7.3-2 If you feel that you are now
knowledgeable on the content of the
6. Check performance using the information sheet, you can now
Performance Criteria Checklist 7.3-2 answer self-check provided in the
module
7. Read Information Sheet 7.3-3
Communicating effectively

8. Answer Self-check 7.3-3

9. Refer answer to Answer Key 7.3-3

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INFORMATION SHEET 7.3-1
Green Building Concept relative to Construction (3R/5S)

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Know green building concepts for environmental protection; and
2. Implement green building concepts preserving the ecosystem.

Introduction:

Green building offers you and your team a comprehensive set of best practices to
help you design and construct efficient, healthy homes that benefit the
community, the environment, and your bottom line. These nine "elements" are
literally your green building blocks.

Taken from google

Site planning and design

Affordable housing works best when residents have easy access to key services
and transit. Infill sites have these and many more environmental benefits. Design
your site to fit into the surrounding neighborhood and to work with natural
features to provide safe play spaces, shade your building, and naturally control
storm water runoff. Minimize site impacts by shrinking the physical footprint of

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your development with more compact building and parking lot layouts and by
taking care of trees and soil conditions during construction.

Community

Green buildings and developments support strong communities by giving
neighbors places to meet, establishing a sense of place and safety, and creating
spaces for pedestrians and kids, rather than cars. Successful and sustainable
designs involve residents and community members from the planning stage all the
way through to operation and maintenance.

Indoor Air Quality

Indoor air quality significantly impacts resident health and comfort--essential
goals for any building. Achieving a high quality indoor environment requires
careful design, construction, and materials choices, and thus strong coordination
among the building team. Indoor air quality centers on well-designed ventilation
and moisture control, which goes hand in hand with energy efficiency and building
durability. Ongoing maintenance is important, of course, as is a commitment to
finding alternatives to toxic materials and finishes.

Energy

Energy efficiency is the key to making your building a finely tuned, lean, green
machine. Start using energy modeling software early in the design process to take
advantage of the sun and wind to heat, light, and cool your building affordably.
Modeling will show how a high performance building envelope and superior
insulation can let you can choose smaller, efficient HVAC systems, lighting, and
appliances. Renewable energy, where feasible, is the ideal next step.

Materials

Green, high quality building materials that minimize or eliminate indoor air
quality concerns, avoid toxics, and greatly reduce waste are now widely available,
often from local manufacturers. Recycled-content and pre-fabricated products
reduce material use, cut costs, and often perform better than traditional
alternatives. To set criteria for purchasing, consult existing guidelines, standards,
and certifications. Life cycle analysis has provided several rules of thumb for
different categories of materials.

Waste

Reduce, reuse, and recycle construction and demolition waste to cut costs and
improve building quality. Design for efficient use of materials and for durability,
avoiding future waste. Then identify goals in a waste management plan and work
them into contract documents. With the right setup, you can recycle over 70
percent of some waste materials on the construction site, and residents can
recycle 100 percent of others in their homes.

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Water

Conserve finite freshwater resources and reduce utility bills by installing water-
efficient appliances and plumbing fixtures, landscaping with drought-resistant
plants and efficient irrigation, and putting rainwater and greywater to use. To soak
up more of the storm water runoff that plagues rivers and streams in the
Washington metropolitan area, replace asphalt and turf with porous pavement and
trees; then consider rain barrels, rain gardens, and green roofs.

Commissioning

Commissioning is the process of making sure that a building works right. By
systematically evaluating and adjusting building systems to function together as
designed, commissioning optimizes efficiency, health, and comfort. A
commissioning agent--often a third-party architect or engineer--gives advice
during the design phase and follows through with testing during construction and
training of operations and maintenance staff.

Marketability

When architects use daylighting to flood an open floor plan with natural light;
when residents open a window to let in fresh air and look out on thriving trees,
green buildings don't just lower utility bills and keep residents healthy--they
inspire. Distinctive and attractive design gives residents, developers, and
neighbors a reason to take pride in a green development, to care for their homes,
their community, and the environment. These values are the foundation of
sustainability. By treating green design as an art, not just a science, we can
elevate economic, aesthetic, community, and ecological values to serve future
generations.

Reference:
“Elements of Green Building” by Green Space
http://www.greenspacencr.org/building/pros/how_b/envision_b/elements_of_gre
en_building.html

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SELF-CHECK 7.3-1

True or False

Direction: Write TRUE if the statement is correct and FALSE if the statement is
wrong and underline the words that makes the statement correct or false to
complete the 2 points for every item.

1. Green buildings and developments do not support strong communities

2. Indoor air quality significantly influences resident good health and comfort

3. Green, high quality building materials that minimize or eliminate indoor bad
air quality concerns

4. Reduce, reuse, and recycle construction and demolition waste to cut costs
and improve building quality.

5. Commissioning is not the process of making sure that a building works
right.

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
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ANSWER KEY 7.3.1

1. False – do not
2. True – good
3. True – bad
4. True – cut cost
5. False- not

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INFORMATION SHEET 7.3-2
Methods and Techniques In Measurements

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Distinguish different basic truss designs use for structures
2. Outline different truss designs for structures

Roof framing is one of those carpenter
skills that appears quite complicated,
and indeed, some roof designs are
difficult. Roofs are basically five types:
shed, gable, hip, gambrel and mansard.
Another common design in the
Northeast is the “saltbox,” which is a
gable roof with one longer side. These
days “cut-ups,” or roofs with a lot of
valleys, dormers and other features, are
increasingly popular. In many cases
with purchased house plans, the
details of the roof construction, including rafter design, are included.

Roofs are framed in five basic designs:
shed, gable, hip, gambrel and mansard.
The gable is the most common, and it
can be complicated with multiple roof
lines, including valleys and dormers.

In order to build any but a shed-type
roof, including trusses, you’ll need to
first determine a few factors; the span,
rise, run and line length. For a shed roof
you only need to know the rise, span
and line length. Span is the measurement across the building from outside
supporting wall to outside supporting wall. Run is half the distance of the span.
Rise is the measurement from the centerline of the span to the top of the roof line.
Line length is the measurement from the outside of the supporting wall line to the
centerline of the roof at the top of the rise. Basically you’re working with a triangle
with two legs and the line length for a hypotenuse.

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The framing of a basic gable roof is
based on a right-angle triangle, and

the various roof framing components
fit the triangle. The rise, or height of

the roof at its peak, is the altitude of
the triangle; the run, or half the
building span, is the base of the

triangle; and the line length,
measurement from the roof peak to
the building wall, is the hypotenuse.

You will also need to know the desired pitch of the roof. Pitch is the slope or angle

from the wall plate to the roof ridge line. Pitch can vary a great deal, from a
shallow slope up to a very steep pitch. Pitch for a gable roof, the most common, is
generally 1/4 or 1/3; which is equal to 1/4 or 1/3

the total span of the building, not counting any
overhang. Pitch also has its own denotation,

determined by the rise in inches in 12 inches. For
instance, a 4/12 pitch denotes a roof rising 4
inches for each 12 inches. Having the correct

pitch is important. In many instances, a certain
pitch may be necessary or even required by local
codes. Pitch is determined by snow loads, other

weather factors and the covering to be applied to
the roof. For those in the northern parts of the

country, an 8 in 12 pitch, or more, is commonly
used to keep excessive snow loads off the roof.
Those in the southern climates may utilize lower

pitches. The minimum pitch, however, that can
be used with many roofing materials such as
asphalt shingles or corrugated metal is 3 in 12

(3/12 pitch). For lower pitches, a built-up or
continuous roll roofing must be applied to keep the roof waterproof.

Pitch is the amount of angle or slope the roof has. This is denoted two ways, a 1/3
or 1/4 pitch in fractions, and a 6/12 pitch in inches, which means the roof rises 6

inches for each 12 inches of run. A framing square is traditionally used for laying
out the roof and determining pitch.

Rafter Layout

This article will discuss a gable roof, without valleys or dormers, because it’s the

most common and the easiest for a first-time builder to tackle. After you determine
the rise, span, run, line length and pitch, the next step is to lay out the rafters, or

mark the cuts on a pattern rafter to create the roof.

There are three basic cuts used in creating the rafter; the plumb cut at the top of

the rafter where it fits against the ridge plate; the tail cut that creates the outside
edge of the building eaves; and the bird’s mouth, which positions the rafter on the

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top of the wall plate. We will show two methods of laying out rafters; one using a
traditional framing (2-foot) square, and the second using the new C.H. Hanson
Pivot Square.

Hold the framing square with the
manufacturer’s name up; this is called
the “face” of the square, and the
opposite side is the “back.” The long
arm of the square is the “blade,” and
the short arm is the “tongue.” In the
example we’ll use a 1/3 pitch as
shown in the drawing below, this
means a rise of 8 inches for each 12
inches of run (an 8/12 pitch roof). The
first step is to lay the square on the
end of the rafter board and locate 8
inches on the tongue (the rise), and 12
inches on the blade (the unit of run).
Measure from the point on the blade
to the point on the tongue—it should
be 14-7/16 inches. Multiply this by
the run of the building. We’re using
10 feet in this example, excluding the overhang. The resulting figure is 144-1/2
inches. We add 12 inches for the overhang to get a final figure of 156-1/2 inches.

A framing square is used to lay out the rafters.
Examine the rafter board to determine if there is any curve or “crown” in the
board. You should make this first pattern rafter on the straightest board you can
find. If there is any curve in the board, lay out the rafter so the crown is up or
facing away from you. Experience has shown that the weight of the roof will
gradually flatten this crown. (If the crown were to be positioned down, the roof
could eventually sag.) Then lay out the rafter as shown on the next page.

Rafter Layout with a Framing Square

This example is for a roof with an 8/12 pitch
● Position the square at the end of the rafter board, with the tongue on your
left and facing away from you. Position the square with both the 8 inch on
the outside edge of the tongue and the 12 inch on the blade on the upper
edge of the board. Mark along the backside of the tongue. This is the plumb
cut for the roof ridge.
● Measure form the top of this line down the board to determine the line
length, or length of the rafter, less ½ the ridge board. This commonly is a 2-
by or 1-1/2-inch board, so the measurement is less ¾ inches. Also exclude
the overhang at this point. Holding the square in the same position as
before, mark down to the side of the tongue. This marks the plumb cut at
the inside of the house wall for the notch (called a bird’s mouth) to seat the
rafter one the wall plate.

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● Add the length of the overhang beyond this mark and mark it. Note the
square is turned over. In the example shown this is 12 inches. Cut the rafter
at the ridge line and at the overhang line.

● Then hold the square on the plumb line that marks the bird’s mouth.
Determine the wall thickness or depth of the bird’s mouth cut and make a
mark. Cut the notch, first with a handsaw or portable circular saw, and
then finish the cut with a handsaw.

Another method of laying out the rafter with the square is called “stepping off.”
Once the plumb cut is marked, simply move the square 12 inches and mark
another plumb cut. Continue moving down the rafter and marking plumb cuts,
including any odd figures.

One method of laying out rafters with a square is called “stepping off.”

Cut the Pattern

Make a duplicate rafter from the pattern. Then lay the rafters out on a smooth, flat
surface, with a 2-by between them at the ridge line. Measure to make sure the
rise, run and span are correct. You may wish to test these on the building before
cutting the rest of the rafters. Once you’re sure these two pattern rafters are
correctly cut, mark them as patterns and mark and cut the necessary number of
rafters. If the building has hanging or “fly” rafters for the gable ends, cut them as
well. They do not, however, have the bird’s mouth cut.

Make sure you carefully follow the pattern rafter. A number of years ago I was
constructing a two-story building. One carpenter laid out and began to cut the
rafters. He became ill from the extreme heat of the day and another carpenter took
over for the last third of the rafters. When the roof framing was completed and
decking installed, there was a built-in sag. I don’t know if the second carpenter
didn’t use the pattern rafter, or simply wasn’t as precise, but it was a costly
mistake.

Framing Issues

These days’ wider rafters are often used than are suitable for the fascia, so the tail
of the rafter is also cut to create a narrower, more suitable fascia board. This
requires laying out a level line on the tail of the rafter. To do this, do not make the
tail cut until this has been established. Draw the sub fascia and finish fascia
board on the end of the rafter and against the plumb tail cut. Use the bottom
edges of these boards to mark the level line cut. Again, once all cuts have been
marked, cut the pattern rafters, test and you’re ready to erect the roof framing.

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In some instances, the bottom edge of the rafters is also cut with a level line. Lay
these out as shown.

To erect the rafters, use temporary ridge board braces.

Before beginning the framing, determine rafter location on both top plates and
mark them using a framing square. The small or tongue side of the square is 1-
1/2 inches wide so you can mark the locations of both sides of the rafters to guide
the installation.

Fasten the rafters to the ridge board and the bird’s mouth to the top wall plate,
and add collar ties.

The easiest method of erecting the rafters is to make temporary braces of 2-by
materials. These should be the height of the building walls, plus the rise. Use only

enough supports for the first length of ridge board. Rip the ridge board to the
correct width to meet the rafter widths at the ridge. Create a saddle at the top with

the braces the height of the building walls, plus rise, less the width of the ridge
board. Brace these supports in the centerline of the building. Position a ridge
board down in the saddles of the supports. Align the top plumb cut with the ridge

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board, and align the heal cut of the bird’s mouth with the inside of the wall. Nail
the rafter in place. As the rafters are installed, add any supports needed or
required by code, such as collar ties or center supports. Continue erecting rafters
until you reach the end of the firs piece of ridge board. Then move the temporary
braces for the next ridge board and continue installing rafters.
With the rafters in place, the gable end framing uses vertical studs, or “blocking,”
positioned directly over the wall studs and supported by the end top plates. They
are notched to fit around the gable-end rafters. After the sheathing is installed,
hanging or “fly” rafters are then installed.
Roof framing doesn’t have to be daunting, but if it’s your first try, a simple gable
roof, say on a garden shed, is the best bet.

Finish the end walls with blocking studs, notched to fit around the rafters and
fastened to the top plate. Remove the temporary collar ties.

Reference:
“Roof Framing 101” March 27, 2008
https://extremehowto.com/roof-framing-101/

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JOB SHEET 7.3-2

Title: Methods and techniques in measuring trusses

Performance Objective:
Given the necessary materials, tools and equipment you should be able draw
simple truss following correct procedure in 30 minutes.

Supplies
 CBLM, drawing materials

Equipment:
 Set of triangles, T-Square

Materials
● Bond paper

Steps/Procedure:
1. Collect all your materials needed
2. Select the size of your structure
3. Measure the span
4. Draw the span
5. Measure the run
6. Draw the span
7. Measure the rise
8. Draw the rise
9. Determine the required size of the fascia
10. Draw the truss with fascia

Assessment Method:
● Portfolio
● Demonstration

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 7.3-2

CRITERIA YES NO
Did I….

1. collect all your materials needed?

2. select the size of your structure?

3. Measure the span?

4. Draw the span?

5. Measure the run?

6. Draw the span?

7. Measure the rise?

8. Draw the rise?

9. Determine the required size of the fascia?

10. Draw the truss with fascia?

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INFORMATION SHEET 7.3-3
Communicating Effectively

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Know the different and acceptable method of communication in the
construction site; and

2. Know the importance of communication at the worksite.

Introduction:

Communication is more than important in the construction industry. It is a major
ingredient for the successful completion of a construction project. With good
communication practices, it can enhance teamwork, productivity, and better
project collaboration in the site.
Miscommunication has been one of the biggest problems in the construction
industry. When the methods of communication aren’t properly planned, it later
becomes a challenge for a project leads to relay instructions to his members or a
member reporting progress or problem to the leader. Consequently, the project will
suffer from delays and the team may face issues and misunderstandings that stop
productivity.
When communication issues arise, it usually takes a long time to fix which can be
a waste of both time and money. This is why you need to use at least 3 channels
where you can communicate with your whole team.
There are more than you can do as a project manager to solidify communication
within your team. And we made a rundown of some strategies on how you can do
so.

Picture taken from google

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8 Ways to Improve Communication in the Construction Site

1. Hold Meetings Regularly. It is important to regularly hold meetings with
various employees every week, which will confirm the project’s plans and what is

expected of staff onsite. It will also provide a space to develop meeting notes, which
must be circulated to all members of staff.

2. Ensure All Employees. Can Understand You As we live in a multicultural
society, not all your employees may speak English as their first language. Every
employer has a responsibility to ensure staff onsite are safe and protected, which

is why they must provide the appropriate bilingual signage and training. It might
also be beneficial to hire an interpreter at work to translate instructions and

health and safety warnings.

3. Be Clear Transparency is an important factor that allows people to understand

that what you say is what you mean and aren’t that lets people know you mean
what you say and that you’re honest. Be sure to make your words and actions

match. This is also to build trust in your crew and also your clients.

4. Encourage Communication In addition to holding both formal and informal

meetings, encourage employees to continually communicate with one another. For
example, they should provide each other with updates on a project to remain on
schedule; or state if they unexpectedly need to leave the site for a short or long

period. As a result, it can create a more productive, safer environment for
everyone.

5. Practice Equal Treatment Identify standards that define your beliefs and
practices and uphold them while communicating with your crew. If you treat your

staff differently or if you’re not consistently treating them, then people might talk
and find out that wasn’t being fair. It differs in every situation, but issues like this
can lead to lawsuits that make accusations of discriminatory practices in the

workplace.

6. Talk to Each Team Member Talking to the members as a team is great as it
encourages a collaborative spirit among the workers, but it is also important to set
time for each member to guide them individually. There may be some things about

specific team members that require a different approach to communication. An
example of this would be having a worker who has hearing loss in one ear, so

making the routine of approaching that worker to talk to him from the unaffected
side and instruct the others to do the same is a good way to have clearer
communication.

7. Have Training Let your crew enhance their skills and gain new ones by
organizing continuous training on new equipment, software, apps, safety features,

and regulation. This way it will not only benefit your crew but also your business
and the flow of your projects as well. Following this tip will not only improve

communication and strengthen the relationship between the company and the
employees, but it will also lessen the chances of crew members resigning or
leaving because they will feel like they are permanent for the position and that

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they are valued by the company. Investing in training employees may seem like an
advantage for the company because they will have more skilled employees, but a
company that offers training is something that employees see as an opportunity
that they should not miss.

8. Choose the right method of communication In the construction industry,
communication can be through signs, hand signals, drawings, meetings, and a lot
more. Daily reports and photos are also compiled. It is vital to choose the right
communication method that can simplify all these things while also making
communication with everyone much clearer and easier.
What most construction companies do that is both effective and simple is using a
software that allows the project manager to communicate with his team, upload
photos, videos, documents, schedule tasks, track time, monitor tasks, and more.
“Communication is one of the key elements in ensuring a project’s success”.

Reference:
“8 Ways to improve Communication in the Construction Site”
By: Pro Crew Schedule, October 2019
https://www.procrewschedule.com/how-to-improve-communication-in-the-
construction-site/

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SELF-CHECK 7.3-3

Enumeration:

A, Enumerate the 8 ways to improve communication in the construction site.

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ANSWER KEY 7.3-3

1. Hold Meetings Regularly
2. Ensure All Employees
3. Be Clear Transparency
4. Encourage Communication
5. Practice Equal Treatment
6. Talk to Each Team Member
7. Have Training
8. Choose the right method of communication

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LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY

Learning Outcome 4 ASSEMBLE WOODEN ROOF TRUSS

CONTENTS:

● Performing basic joinery
● Fabrication of wooden roof truss

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

● Personal protective equipment (PPE) is used in accordance with Rule
1080 of Occupational Safety and Health Standards

● Truss members are cut, assembled, fastened and fixed based on
working drawings.

● Wooden roof truss assembly is placed in staging area.
● Work area is cleaned according to safety and environmental

regulations (e.g. PD 1152 Section 6, 8 & 42)
● Required output is completed as specified by the immediate

supervisor based on work schedule.

CONDITION:

The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
● Actual or simulated workplace
● Tools, materials and equipment needed to perform the required tasks
● References and manuals
● PPE
● First Aid Kit

ASSESSMENT METHODS

● Written Examination
● Observation
● Demonstration

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LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome 4. ASSEMBLE WOODEN ROOF TRUSS

Learning activities Special Instructions

1. Read Information Sheet 7.4-1
Performing basic joinery

2. Answer Self-Check for 7.4-1  If you have some problem on the

3. Refer your answer to Answer Key 7.4-1 content of the information sheet
don’t hesitate to approach your

4. Do Job Sheet 7.4-1 facilitator.
 If you feel that you are now

5. Check performance through the knowledgeable on the content of
Performance Criteria Checklist 7.4-1 the information sheet, you can

now answer

6. Read Information Sheet 7.4-2  Self-check provided in the
Fabrication of wooden roof truss module

7. Answer Self-Check for 7.4-2

8. Refer your answer to Answer Key 7.4-2

9. Do Job Sheet 7.4-2

10. Check performance through the
Performance Criteria Checklist 7.4-2

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INFORMATION SHEET 7.4-1
Performing Basic Joinery

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Identify different kinds/types of basic wood joinery; and
2. Perform basic wood joinery.

Introduction:

Wood joinery is one of the most basic concepts in woodworking. If we didn't have
the ability to join two pieces of wood together in a solid fashion, all woodworking
pieces would be sculptures, carved out of a single piece of wood. However, with the
many varied types of wood joinery, a woodworker has a number of different joints
in his arsenal from which to choose, based on the project. If you master these
wood joinery concepts, you'll be well on your way to becoming a very
accomplished woodworker.

Basic Butt Joint

Image taken from google

There is no more basic wood joinery than the butt joint. A butt joint is nothing
more than when one piece of wood butts into another (most often at a right angle,
or square to the other board) and is fastened using mechanical fasteners. This
type of joint is often used in wall framing on construction sites. Learn tips for
using a butt joint, as well as when to choose another wood joinery type.

Mitered Butt Joint

Image taken from google

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A mitered butt joint is nearly the same as a basic butt joint, except that the two
boards are joined at an angle (instead of square to one another). The advantage is
that the mitered butt joint will not show any end grain, and as such is a bit more
aesthetically pleasing. However, the mitered butt joint isn't all that strong.

Lap joint or overlap joint is a joint in which the members overlap. Lap joints can
be used to join wood, plastic, or metal.
A lap joint may be a full lap or half lap. In a full lap, no material is removed from
either of the members that will be joined, resulting in a joint which is the
combined thickness of the two members. In a half lap joint or halving joint,
material is removed from both of the members so that the resulting joint is the
thickness of the thickest member. Most commonly in half lap joints, the members
are of the same thickness and half the thickness of each is removed

Half-Lap Joint

Image taken from google

The half-lap joint is where half of each of the two boards being joined is removed
so that the two boards join together flush with one another. This type of wood
joinery can obviously weaken the strength of the two adjoining boards, but also is
a stronger joint than butt joints. There are a number of projects where this type of
wood joint is quite desirable, in spite of its drawbacks.

Tongue and Groove Joint

Image taken from google

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When joining two boards square to one another along a long edge, one can simply
butt the joint together and hold it with fasteners. However, the tongue and groove
joint is much stronger and provides more adjoining surface areas, which is
particularly useful if you're going to glue the joint.

Mortise and Tenon Joint

Image taken from google

The mortise and tenon is a classic wood joinery method. These joints have
been used since the early times of woodworking, and are still among the strongest
and most elegant methods for joining wood. Learn methods for creating tight,
beautiful mortise and tenon joints.

Biscuit Joint

Image taken from google

Another method for joining boards along the edges (like the tongue and groove
joint) is to cut slots and use beechwood wafers (known as a biscuit) to hold the
boards in place. This is a very useful modern woodworking joint, particularly for
creating table tops, relying on glue and the swelling of the beechwood biscuit to
hold the boards in place. Learn how to cut consistent slots and get reliable results
from biscuit joinery.

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Pocket Joint

Image taken from google

The pocket joint is a type of wood joinery that involves cutting a slot and pre-
drilling a pilot hole at an angle between two boards before connecting the two with
a screw. This pre-drilling needs to be very accurate, so it is typically accomplished
by use of a commercial jig. Pocket joints work great for cabinet face frames and
other similar applications where a lot of strength is not needed. Learn the steps to
creating pocket joints in your woodworking projects.

Dado

Image taken from google

A dado is nothing more than a square-grooved slot on one board where another
board will fit. Similar to tongue and groove joinery, this is a commonly-used wood
joint for connecting plywood, such as building cabinetry. Learn how to properly
cut a dado, and when to use one.

Rabbet

Image taken from google

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Another common wood joint used in cabinetry is the rabbet. A rabbet is essentially
a dado cut along the edge of a board. Rabbets are often used at the back
of cabinets and other similar assemblies for attaching the back to the sides of the
box, adding a considerable amount of strength to the assembly. Learn how to cut
clean rabbets and when to use them.
Through Dovetail Joint

Image taken from google
Of all wood joinery methods, the through dovetail may be the most revered. A
classic through dovetail is beautiful and very strong and adds a touch of class to
any piece. There are a few methods for creating through dovetails, from hand
cutting to machining with a jig. Learn the keys to a quality through dovetail joint
and how to create them.
Sliding Dovetail

Image taken from google

A sliding dovetail is a versatile joint with a lot of possible uses. A good way to think
of it is as a locking dado. Learn the keys to building a clean sliding dovetail joint,
and when to use one.

Reference:
“13 Types of Wood Joinery” of The Spruce Craft by: Christ Baylor, Updated
12/12/2019
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/wood-joinery-types-3536631

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SELF-CHECK 7.4-1

Fill-in the Blank:

Direction: Fill-in the black with the correct missing word/s.

1. A __________ joint is nothing more than when one piece of wood butts into
another (most often at a right angle, or square to the other board) and is
fastened using mechanical fasteners.

2. A __________ joint is nearly the same as a basic butt joint, except that the
two boards are joined at an angle (instead of square to one another).

3. _____________when joining two boards square to one another along a long
edge, one can simply butt the joint together and hold it with fasteners.

4. A ___________ is nothing more than a square-grooved slot on one board
where another board will fit. Similar to tongue and groove joinery, this is a
commonly-used wood joint for connecting plywood, such as building
cabinetry.

5. A ___________ is a versatile joint with a lot of possible uses. A good way to
think of it is as a locking dado.

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ANSWER KEY 7.4-1

1. Butt
2. Mitered butt
3. Tongue and groove joint
4. Dado
5. Sliding dovetail

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JOB SHEET 7.4-1

Title: Wood joinery

Performance Objective:

Given the necessary materials, tools and equipment you should be able to
perform wood joinery (Mitered Butt Joint) in 30 minutes.

Supplies:
 CBLM, finishing nail, wood glue,

Equipment:
 Basic carpentry tools

Materials
● 2” x 1.5” S4S lumber

Steps/Procedure:

1. Prepare all the materials and tools you need
2. Get 2 pieces of same sizes of wood ( 2 inches by 1.5 inches S4S)

3. Check the straightness of all sides
4. Get the sizes of width and the thickness
5. Draw a square on one end of every piece of wood

6. Draw a 45 degrees starting from the corner on where you had drawn a
square

7. Get the center or half of the thickness of the wood

8. Draw a parallel at the center of the wood
9. Cut the inner triangles of both piece of wood

10. Be sure that the remaining triangle must be overlapping to each other to
form a perfect right angle.

11. Secure the connection of the work piece.

Assessment Methods:
● Portfolio
● Oral questioning

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 7.4-1

CRITERIA YES NO
Did I….

1. prepare all the materials and tools you need?

2. get 2 pieces of same sizes of wood ( 2 inches by 1.5
inches S4S)?

3. check the straightness of all sides?

4. get the sizes of width and the thickness?

5. draw a square on one end of every piece of wood?

6. draw a 45 degrees starting from the corner on where you
draw a square?

7. get the center or half of the thickness of the wood?

8. draw a parallel at the center of the wood?

9. cut the inner triangles of both piece of wood?

10. ensure that the remaining triangle must be overlapping
to each other to form a perfect right angle?

11. Secure the connection of the work piece?

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INFORMATION SHEET 7.4-2
Fabrication of wooden roof truss

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Know the components of wooden roof truss
2. Fabricate wooden roof truss

Introduction:

A truss is a structure comprising one or more triangular units. Each triangle is
constructed with two top chords, a bottom chord and webs, all connected at the

ends by joints. Roof battens are securely fixed to the truss top chords.

Reference:
“Component of a Roof Truss” by Hyne Timber 2019

https://www.hyne.com.au/article/183/components-of-a-roof-truss

Trusses are commonly used to provide support for roofs, bridges, and other
expansive structures. To put together a simple wooden truss, you'll fasten a

number of pre-cut beams into a chosen configuration inside a sturdy triangular
frame, which will help distribute the weight of the structure more evenly. Plan
your project carefully using precise measurements and reinforce the finished truss

with both gusset plates and construction adhesive to make sure it’s built to last.

Selecting the Right Type of Truss

1. Measure your structure to determine how big your truss needs to
be. Trusses can be built in many different shapes and sizes to accommodate

the dimensions of various structures. Before you can begin plotting the exact
specifications of your truss, find the overall length and height of the structure

being reinforced.

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a. A truss for a gable roof on one side of your home, for example, might need to
be 15 feet (4.6 m) long and 4–6 feet (1.2–1.8 m) tall.

b. The dimensions of your structure will determine the angles formed by the
truss’s top and bottom beams, or “chords.” On a relatively shallow roof, for
instance, the upper and lower chords may meet at a 30-degree angle on
each side.

c. In some cases, building codes may dictate the size requirements of a truss
for a certain type of structure. Be sure to consult your local building codes
before you begin drawing up plans for your truss.

2. Use a simple king post truss to reinforce small, lightweight structures. A
king post truss design features a single vertical joist that runs through the
center of the triangular frame. This style is useful for framing structures that
don’t require quite as much support as structures that bear more weight.

a. A king post truss may be all you need if you're looking to add some extra
stability to a garden shed or gable roof.

3. Build a Fink truss to bolster a floor, roof, or deck. In a Fink truss, the
internal joists are arranged in a “W” shape, ensuring even weight distribution
from one end to the other. Fink trusses were originally invented for the purpose
of beefing up bridges, but many contractors now use them to increase the
strength of interior structures.

a. When fashioning a Fink truss, the middle of the "W" will be at the center line
of the triangle. Similarly, the points formed by the internal joists will
connect at the midpoints on either side of the center line.

b. Due to the symmetrical simplicity of their design, Fink-style trusses can also
make an attractive alternative to plainer styles for ornamental structures
like gazebos and covered outdoor shelters.

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4. Construct a Howe truss to provide unshakable support from below. Howe
trusses closely resemble the King Post and Fink styles, only with additional
angled beams arranged around the central joist at regular intervals. They are
often built onto the underside of the structure they're intended for.
a. The internal angles in a Howe truss are repeated at regular intervals. Both
sides of a standard Howe truss, for example, might consist of joists forming
opposing 90 and 60-degree angles.
b. Because of their complex configuration, Howe trusses tend to be difficult to
plan and assemble, and are most often reserved very large load-bearing
structures.
c. A Howe-style design will offer maximum reinforcement for multi-level
structures, as well as those built from especially heavy materials.

Designing Your Truss

1. Size the bottom chord 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) longer than the floor. Start by
noting the exact length of the structure’s floor. Then, add 0.25 inches
(0.64 cm). This will account for possible inconsistencies and ensure that the
truss is a proper fit.

a. If possible, use a tape measure to double-check the floor’s length rather
than simply relying on the recorded measurements listed in the building
plan.

2. Incorporate overhanging top chords to add extra visual flair. On some roof
trusses, the 2 top chords extend down over the edges of the bottom chord,
creating a built-in overhang. If you think you’d prefer an overhang-style truss,
adjust the measurements for your top chords accordingly. Your top chords can
protrude beyond the bottom chord anywhere from 1–3 feet (0.30–0.91 m).

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b. Overhanging chords are more of a stylistic feature than a practical one, and
shouldn’t affect the overall stability of the truss.

3. Cut plywood gusset plates to fasten together lightweight trusses. Gusset
plates are used to secure the connections between the individual truss
components. Fashion your own set of plywood gusset plates by cutting thick
sheets of plywood to fit over each site where one joist meets another. This will
include all 3 corners of the frame, as well as the top and bottom of each beam
crisscrossing the center of the truss.
a. Use a circular saw or skill saw to cut your plywood to the right size and
shape.
b. Making your own plywood gusset plates will help you keep the overhead for
your project low.

4. Use steel gusset plates to secure trusses for weight-bearing
structures. Depending on the scale of your project and the specific building
codes in your area, you may have the choice to use galvanized steel gusset
plates. While these won't be necessary for most projects, they can come in
handy for holding together trusses designed for bridges, cathedral-style roofs,
or other especially large structures.

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a. You can order steel gusset plates from companies that specialize in
construction timber or steel-working supplies.

b. Solid steel gusset plates cost quite a bit more than plywood ones, so make
sure they fit into the budget you've set for your project.

5. Create a detailed sketch of your truss design. Once you have all of your
measurements worked out, commit your plans to a sheet of graphing paper.
Draw each of the major lines and angles to scale, being sure to note their exact
specifications out to one side. Alternatively, you can use an architectural design
software to generate a diagram based on the specific measurements you assign.

a. If you’re drafting up your plans by hand, use a ruler to make sure that
your lines are straight and the internal angles of the truss are accurately
represented.

b. You can find many helpful digital design programs for free or cheap online.

6. Submit your building plans to your local licensing authority. Most cities
have agencies responsible for overseeing building codes and regulations. After

completing the design for your wood truss, you’ll need to submit a copy to the

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licensing department for your region in order to have it approved for
construction.

a. If you’re not sure who the licensing authority for your area is, run a quick
search for “construction licensing” plus the name of your city, state, or
territory.

b. The criteria used by your licensing department may differ depending on
factors like zoning laws, geographical features, and weather patterns. For
example, if you live in an area with heavy snowfall, your city will likely have
strict requirements about the bearing strength of your new structure.

c. Building codes may not apply if you’re just constructing a truss for simple
structures like a small tool shed.

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Putting the Truss Together

1. Measure and mark your timber with a pencil. Before you begin sawing your
raw materials, lay out your lumber on a flat surface and trace a line where you
plan on making each cut. Precise measurements are critical if you want your
truss to be sturdy and fit together properly.

a. Refer back to the plans you drew up to keep track of how long each piece of
lumber needs to be.

b. Use a triangle square to verify the angles at the edges of the top and bottom
chords.

c. Trusses for common structures like houses, carports, and gazebos are most
often constructed using 2 in (5.1 cm) x 4 in (10 cm) wooden boards.

2. Cut your truss pieces to size using a jigsaw. A jigsaw will allow you to make
short crosscuts through thick pieces of wood with maximum efficiency. Set
your lumber on a shop table or between 2 sawhorses and guide the saw
smoothly across the measurement lines you drew earlier to achieve clean,
precise cuts.

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a. To prevent the pieces from shifting, consider using a table clamp to hold
them fast to your work surface.

b. Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself from injury while
operating a power saw.

3. Assemble your truss in the desired shape. After cutting your lumber, gather
up the individual pieces and begin fitting them together. Remember, you’ll need
2 top chords, 1 bottom chord, and at least 1 central joist for support.

a. Study your plans closely to make sure you're piecing the internal joists
together in the correct configuration for the style you've chosen.

b. Keep in mind that the angles formed by the internal joists will remain the
same despite differences in the frame's height or width.

c. This is a good opportunity to visually confirm that each component has been
cut to the correct size. If you encounter any mistakes, you may need to start
over with a fresh piece of lumber.

4. Use construction adhesive to hold the truss components together. Apply a

generous amount of adhesive to the face of each piece where it will intersect
with the next using a putty knife. Then, carefully return the piece to its place in
the assembly. Press the 2 connecting pieces together for 30-40 seconds to

ensure that the adhesive sticks firmly.

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a. For ease of application, look for glues that come in tubes similar to caulk
guns.

b. Take your time to make sure everything is where it needs to be. With most
adhesives, you’ll have a window of 10-15 minutes before the adhesive begins
to set. This will allow you to reposition your components as needed.

5. Attach gusset plates at each connection site to fasten the finished
truss. Apply a thin layer of construction adhesive to the backside of a plate.
Then, flip it over and press it firmly into place over a joint between two truss
beams. Insert construction screws every 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) through the
holes in the face of the plate and use an electric drill drive the screws deep into
the wood. Repeat this process at each remaining joint.

a. If you're working with plywood gusset plates, you can drill your screws
directly through the plates themselves.

b. Give the adhesive 1-2 minutes to bond before installing the screws. That
way, the friction of the drill won’t cause the plates to slip out of place.

c. Allow the adhesive to set overnight. The following day, your truss will be
ready to add on to the structure it’s intended to support.

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Reference:

“How to Build a Simple Wood Truss” By WikiHow (August 2019)
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Simple-Wood-Truss

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SELF-CHECK 7.4-2

Enumeration:
A. Enumerate the 5 component parts of wooden roof truss

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ANSWER KEY 7.4-2

Any of the following:
1. Roof Battens
2. Top Chord
3. Pitching Chord
4. Bottom Chord
5. Webs
6. Fascia

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JOB SHEET 7.4-2

Title: Wooden roofing truss fabrication

Performance Objective:
Given the necessary materials, tools and equipment you should be able to
fabricate wooden roofing truss following correct and accepted method in 1 hour..

Supplies:
 CBLM, common nail, wood glue

Equipment:
 Basic carpentry tools

Materials:
● 2” x 4” S4S lumber, gusset plates

Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare all the materials and tools you need
2. Prepare a design of roof truss
3. Saw the truss members/parts to required sizes
4. Lay the truss members out on the ground
5. Apply wood adhesives
6. Connect required parts with a nails
7. Secure the joints with gusset plates

Assessment Methods:
● Demonstration
● Oral questioning

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PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 7.4-2

CRITERIA YES NO
Did I….

1. prepare all the materials and tools you need?

2. prepare a design of roof truss?

3. saw the truss members/parts to required sizes?

4. lay the truss members out on the ground?

5. apply wood adhesives?

6. connect required parts with a nails?

7. secure the joints with gusset plates?

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LEARNING OUTCOME SUMMARY

Learning Outcome 5. PLACE WOODEN ROOF TRUSS ASSEMBLY,
PURLINS AND FASCIA BOARD

CONTENTS:

● Installation procedures timber truss
● Lifting procedures construction materials

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

● Personal protective equipment (PPE) is used in accordance with Rule 1080
of Occupational Safety and Health Standards

● Wooden roof truss assembly is lifted from staging area using lifting
equipment

● Wooden roof truss assembly is positioned and fixed according to job
requirements

● Alignment of all installed wooden roof truss assembly are checked based
on job requirements

● Purlins are installed as per required spacing
● Fascia boards are installed based on job requirements
● Work area is cleaned according to safety and environmental regulations

(e.g. PD 1152 Section 6, 8 & 42)
● Required output is completed as specified by the immediate supervisor

based on work schedule.

CONDITIONS:

The students/trainees must be provided with the following:
● Actual or simulated workplace
● Tools, materials and equipment needed to perform the required tasks
● References and manuals
● PPE
● First Aid Kit

ASSESSMENT METHODS:

● Written Examination
● Observation
● Demonstration

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
PTC-IFUGAO Issued by: FN LUNAG 2nd 3-20-20
Fabricating and
Installing Roofing Developed by: Page 95 of 63
Mr. Frazier N. Lunag
System

LEARNING EXPERIENCES

Learning Outcome #5
Place wooden roof truss assembly, purlins and fascia board

Learning Activities Special Instructions

1. Read Information Sheet 7.5-1 If you have some problem on the
Installation procedures timber truss content of the information sheet don’t
hesitate to approach your facilitator.
2. Do Job Sheet 7.5-1

3. Check performance using the If you feel that you are now

Performance Criteria Checklist 7.5-1 knowledgeable on the content of the
information sheet, you can now answer

4. Read Information Sheet 7.5-2 self-check provided in the module

Lifting procedures construction

materials

5. Answer self-check for 7.5-2

6. Refer your answer to Answer Key
7.5-2

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
PTC-IFUGAO Issued by: FN LUNAG 2nd 3-20-20
Fabricating and
Installing Roofing Developed by: Page 96 of 63
Mr. Frazier N. Lunag
System

INFORMATION SHEET 7.5-1
Installation Procedure of Timber Truss

Learning Objectives:

At the end of this Information Sheet, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Know the correct timber truss installation procedures; and
2. Install timber truss following prescribe procedures.

Introduction:

Weatherproofing a new build home is essential as winter sets in, and applying
good practice when it comes to working with trussed rafters will help make the
process run smoothly.

Ten tips to safely install a simple domestic roof.

Step 1
Make sure wall plates are level and secured to load bearing walls. Mark the
position of the trusses on both wall plates.

Step 2
Mechanically (this is the preferred method) or manually lift the first truss onto the
roof in the vertical plane. Install the first truss so that it coincides with the
position of the end of the rafter diagonal bracing when fitted. Checking the
temporary works plan, brace the first truss to both wall plates using the correct
size of bracing and fixings.

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
PTC-IFUGAO Issued by: FN LUNAG 2nd 3-20-20
Fabricating and
Installing Roofing Developed by: Page 97 of 63
Mr. Frazier N. Lunag
System

Step 3
Install the second truss ensuring its production face matches the first truss by

checking the labels or markings on the truss. Brace back to the first truss with
temporary horizontal bracing along the rafters and ceiling tie members. Make sure

both trusses are vertical.

Step 4

Install the third truss towards the gable end in the correct orientation by checking
the details described in step 3. Check it is vertical and fix it to the temporary
bracing along the rafters and ceiling ties to create a stable unit. Install further

trusses with temporary bracing back to this stable unit.

Step 5
Fix the permanent diagonal braces to the inner face of the rafters at 45 degrees.
This will be nailed to the wall plate at the lower end and then fixed as high up on

the first truss as possible but leaving space for the apex brace. All permanent
braces should be a minimum 22 x 97mm timber, dry and defect free. Each truss

should be fixed with 2 no. 3.1mm x 65mm long mechanically driven gun nails or
3.35mm dia. x 75mm long galvanized nails. Bracing may be jointed provided it
spans at least two trussed rafters.

Step 6
Fix all remaining longitudinal bracing to rafters, struts and ceiling ties. Remember

all bracing is repeated on both sides of the roof.

Step 7
The temporary bracing can now be removed allowing any outstanding trusses to
be installed using the completed section of the roof as a means to temporarily

brace them.

Step 8

At this stage all remaining longitudinal, diagonal and chevron bracing specified
should be fixed, along with the metal restraining straps, to the gable end. If using

‘top hat’ trusses, the upper section can now be connected.

Step 9

Once installed but before felting and battening the roof, double check that all
trusses are aligned vertically and are restrained from bowing out of the vertical

plane.

Step 10

If access to high level bracing or ‘top hat’ trusses is required, this must be
considered during the site-specific risk assessment. Access can be safely achieved
using proprietary equipment such as ‘DTE Safe Step’ or ‘STA access system.’ Or

additional timber members can be incorporated within the design to form a
support for a temporary access platform. This needs to be requested during the

design stage.
Finally, trusses should never be cut or adjusted in any way. Change should only
be made with the prior knowledge and consent of the trussed rafter designer.

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
PTC-IFUGAO Issued by: FN LUNAG 2nd 3-20-20
Fabricating and
Installing Roofing Developed by: Page 98 of 63
Mr. Frazier N. Lunag
System

Reference:
“Ten Steps To A Safe Roof Truss Installation” by: Davie Construction Ltd.

http://www.davieconstruction.co.uk/ten-steps-to-safe-truss-

TESDA-CAR- CARPENTRY NC II Date Developed: 3-20-20 Revision No.2
PTC-IFUGAO Issued by: FN LUNAG 2nd 3-20-20
Fabricating and
Installing Roofing Developed by: Page 99 of 63
Mr. Frazier N. Lunag
System