Philippines

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Butot Balat FILIPINO $ been to the beach barbecues in Roxas,

(%321 3752; Solis St; meals P150-250; h10.30am- you’re in for a disappointment, but it’s still

11pm) Sit in a thatched dining pavilion and a decent deal for seafood on the beach. Try
Tatoy’s for the best food (although it’s on
munch on Ilonggo specialities such as tira- the wrong side of the road), or the popular
Breakthrough for good atmosphere and
un (chicken in banana leaves) at this well- incredibly indifferent service. Most ‘Arevalo’

THE VISAYAS PANAY manicured garden restaurant downtown. jeepneys get you here.
Don’t be put off by the unappetising name
that translates as ‘skin and bones’, a refer- Vege Burger VEGETARIAN $
ence to the use of marrow stock in Ilonggo

cooking. Most dishes serve two to three. (General Luna St; meals P50-75; h9am-7pm; v)

Al Dente ITALIAN $$ The eponymous products, made of coconut

(%336 7813; 101 General Luna St; pastas P150-200; or banana blossoms, are small but cost just

h11am-11pm) One of three restaurants run P25 so order a few of them. Other vego op-

by locally renowned chef Pauline Banusing, tions are on the menu and there’s a built-in

Al Dente serves up Italian classics with con- coffee shop.

temporary flair, including a mouth-watering Coffee Break CAFE $

mango cheesecake. It shares a kitchen and (General Luna St; h24hr; W) Little Starbucks

menu with its sister steakhouse, Pacific 101; clone has the usual frappé and sandwich

unfortunately, it also shares a less-than- options.

pretty communal toilet.

Freska FILIPINO $$ 3 Entertainment

(%321 3885; Smallville complex; mains P100-200; Smallville Complex CLUBS

h11am-3pm & 5pm-1am) Sharing a space with (Diversion Rd) Iloilo’s club scene isn’t bad, and

Maki sushi bar, this is another place man- most of the action is here. Flow is king, while

aged by Pauline Banusing. The theme is tra- a host of contenders battle for its crown –

ditional Ilonggo seafood, with snapper and namely MO2 Ice and Aura, which draws a

shellfish taking pride of place on the menu. younger crowd. Admission at all is free on

Mellow Mangrove RESTOBAR $$ weekdays and about P150 at weekends. Beer

(General Luna St; mains P100-170; h6pm-1am bars and live music abound in Smallville.
Mon-Sat) This tucked-away restaurant over-
7 Shopping
looking the river is popular with young cou-
Robinson’s is the big downtown mall, while
ples on dates. Sizzling meat dishes dominate SM City beyond Smallville on Diversion Rd
is where uptown mall rats hang. Both have
the menu and San Miguel costs P39. Wash
the usual complement of movies, restau-
that krappy-oke out of your hair – the music
rants and other mall-like diversions.
here is genuinely groovy.

Arevalo Beachside Barbecues SEAFOOD $$ SAsilo de Molo SOUVENIRS
(barangay Arevalo, Otom; meals P200-500) Sea-
food lovers should head 10km west out of (%338 0252; [email protected]; h9am-
5pm Mon-Fri) Drop in here for wallets, T-shirts
town to the village of Arevalo, where several
and wonderful embroidery woven by newly
beachside seafood buffets await. If you’ve

skilled women. It’s on the site of a former

EAT YOUR WORDS girls’ orphanage, 0.8km west of Molo Church

‘You have to eat the local speciality!’ on the way to the beach, easily reached by
insisted Edison N Molanida, Miagao’s
affable tourism officer. ‘It’s KBL. KBL any ‘Molo’ jeepney.
for KBL!’
8 Information
After being momentarily lost in
translation, this turned out to stand for Internet Access
kadyos, baboy, langka (a tasty mix of Internet cafes are all over town, including in the
black bean, pork and jackfruit), a dish malls, and the going rate is around P30 per hour.
that’s a must for kasal, bunyag and
lutong (weddings, christenings and Medical Services
funerals). Iloilo Doctors’ Hospital (%337 7702; West
Ave) Most modern hospital in town.
St Paul’s Hospital (%337 2741; General
Luna St)

245

Money Montenegro Shipping Lines (%708 1322)
ATMs are huddled in the malls and along central departs Saturday mornings to Puerto Princesa
Iznart St. (from P950, 25 to 30 hours) via the Cuyo Islands
(12 hours). They depart from neighbouring piers
Tourist Information on the north side of the Iloilo River (take the
DOT (%337 5411; [email protected]; Lopez Bridge). The pricier Montenegro boat is
Capitol Grounds, Bonifacio Dr; h8am-5pm faster, larger and more seaworthy.
Mon-Sat)
Bus & Jeepney THE VISAYAS AP8ARNOAUYN D I LO I LO
Visas
BOI (%509 9651; Customs House Bldg, 2nd flr, The main destination outside Iloilo is Caticlan
Aduana St) (for Boracay). If you miss the last service,
get a bus to Kalibo, where you can change for
8 Getting There & Away Caticlan. A few speedy vans to Caticlan (P350,
4½ hours) leave in the morning from the main
The big malls have ticketing offices open from Tagbac bus terminal, about 7km north of the
9am to 8pm daily. centre. Vans to Kalibo are more frequent.

Air Ordinary buses to Antique Province, including
PAL, Airphil Express and Cebu Pacific each fly San José de Buenavista (P105, 2½ hours, every
daily to Cebu City and Manila, with the latter two 30 minutes until 7pm), leave from the Molo bus
adding daily direct flights to Davao. Zest Air also terminal, 500m west of the centre. All go via
flies to Manila. Miagao. A few buses here head to Caticlan via
Antique Province if you want a more scenic (but
Boat slower) trip.
Bacolod, Negros, is the main destination; if you
have wheels, head to Dumangas, 20km north The following destinations are served by Ceres
of Iloilo City, to catch a frequent RORO ferry to buses from the Tagbac terminal.
Bacolod (P80, two hours). Caticlan P313, six hours, every 30 minutes
until 4pm
Tickets for long-haul operators SuperFerry Estancia P156, three hours, frequent
(%336 2110) and Negros Navigation (%335 Kalibo P150, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes
1966) can be bought at branches in SM City until 6pm
mall; for other companies, buy tickets at the Roxas P146, three hours, every 30 minutes
piers. until 6.30pm
BACOLOD From the central Muelle pier,
Weesam Express, Supercat and Oceanjet 8 Getting Around
tackle the rough crossing to Bacolod about 20
times per day from 6am to 5pm (P225 to P325, To/From the Airport
one hour). Only Oceanjet has open-air seating The airport is 15km north of town in Santa Bar-
(P225). There’s no need to reserve these in bara. Airport shuttle buses (P70, 20 minutes)
advance; just show up at the pier. depart from the Travellers Lounge from 4am to
CEBU Trans-Asia (P710, 12 hours, six weekly) 6pm. The schedule is a bit sporadic; get there at
and Cokaliong (P550, 12 hours, three weekly) least two hours before your flight. You can also
serve Cebu City from Iloilo. hail a Santa Barbara–bound jeepney on Diver-
GUIMARAS Bangka ferries to Jordan (P15, 15 sion Rd. A taxi from Iloilo City centre will cost
to 20 minutes until dark) leave from two points: about P300.
most commonly from Ortiz boat station, at the
southern end of Ortiz St (take a Mandurriao Car
jeepney); and also from a dock in front of the Hire cars, either self- or driver-driven, are readily
post office near the Muelle pier. You can take available through your hotel. Figure on P2500
motorbikes on these boats. per day for an air-con van to cruise around the
MANILA From the Fort San Pedro Pier east of countryside, excluding petrol. Panay Adventures
the Muelle Pier, Negros Navigation (two weekly) Tours rents cars and motorbikes, with optional
and SuperFerry (weekly) have ferries to Manila tour guide thrown in.
(from P1000, 20 hours).
MINDANAO Negros Navigation has a weekly Around Iloilo
boat to Cagayan de Oro (P1995, 14 hours, week-
ly) among other destinations in northern Mind- BULABOG PUTI-AN NATIONAL PARK
anao. SuperFerry has a weekly boat to General About 33km north of Iloilo, this 854-hectare
Santos City (from P1300, 30 hours). park is home to monkeys, endangered py-
PALAWAN Milagrosa Shipping (%337 3040) thons, native orchids, old-growth forest, 18
departs at 7pm Mondays and Thursdays, and species of bat and rare species of tarantulas
and scorpions. There are about 35 caves

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THE VISAYAS PANAY MIAGAO CHURCH

The relaxed coastal town of Miagao (mee-yag-ow), 40km west of Iloilo City, is the site
of the elegant honey-coloured Miagao Church (officially known as Santo Tomas de
Villanueva), one of four Philippine churches to have made Unesco’s World Heritage list
(in 1993). Built between 1787 and 1797, the church served as a fortress against Muslim
raiders and over the years was damaged by fighting, fire and earthquakes; it was finally
restored to its rococo glory in 1962. Its fabulous bas-relief sandstone facade depicts St
Christopher strolling through a tropical forest of coconut palms and papaya trees with
baby Jesus.

Old Spanish church lovers should check out the baroque specimens in the neighbour-
ing towns of Guimbal, 8km east of Miagao, and, further east, Tigbauan, where the
Stations of the Cross are represented in detailed mosaics around the inside walls.

within the park, eight of which are within LA CONSOLACION
3km of the park entrance, plus several swim- Within trekking distance of La Consolacion,
ming holes. a barangay of Miagao, are a wealth of natu-
ral attractions, including Sinuhutan Cave,
Its particular attraction, though, is for Danao Lake, interesting rock formations
climbers: some of the best rock climbing and cool fern forests. Miagao’s helpful tour-
routes in the Philippines have been set up ist office (%033-315 8050, ext 106; www.miagao.
in the park by local enthusiasts. More ad- gov.ph) in the Municipal Hall has ideas for
vanced climbers can enjoy 50m routes and excursions in the area.
even help peg new ones if they wish. Begin-
ners are also encouraged to come along for a BUCARI
lesson. Panay Adventures Tours (%033-321 To escape the bustle and heat of the low-
4329; 0917 717 1348; panay_adventures@yahoo. lands, head northwest out of Iloilo City to the
com.ph) in Iloilo can refer you to guides. mountains around the town of Leon. Pine-
ridge Bucari Mountain Resort (%0920 712
For simple hikes and caving, secure a 4912; r per person P1000) is a peaceful retreat
guide (P150) at the ranger station near the nestled into these pine-covered mountains
park entrance. Technically you’re supposed at about 500m above sea level. Accommo-
to secure a park permit (P100) before com- dation is in large cottages with views of the
ing out here at the DOT office in Iloilo or at surrounding valleys and forests. There are
the park office (%0909 500 9563) in Baratoc some hiking and mountain-bike trails in the
Viejo. However, if you arrive here on your immediate vicinity, or you can just chill. Day
own you should be able to pay at the ranger trippers are welcome. Call in advance if you
station. want a meal (per person P300).

The ranger station has two basic cot- To get here from Iloilo take a jeepney to
tages where you can sleep (suggested dona- Leon from the public market in Jaro (40
tion P250). Mattresses are supplied, but not minutes), then either arrange a pickup with
blankets. You can also pitch a tent among the resort or take a tricycle, motorcycle taxi
the mahoganies. There’s plenty of drinking (‘single’) or occasional jeepney to Bucari
water, but bring your own food. (barangay Bacolod, 40 minutes).

8 Getting There & Away Guimaras

The park entrance is a rough tricycle (P150, 20 %033 / POP 151,238
minutes) or single (P100, 10 minutes) ride from
the town of Dingle. To get to Dingle, hop off the Just a short boat ride from urban Iloilo City
Iloilo–Kalibo bus in the town of Pototan or in the and Panay, Guimaras is an example of what
village of Tabugon, where public tricycles (P10 to a divide of only a few kilometres of water
P15) await by the National Hwy to shuttle pas- can mean in terms of development. But this
sengers to Dingle. Slow and infrequent jeepneys gulf, both physical and mental, only height-
direct to Dingle from the Tagbac terminal in Iloilo ens Guimaras’ allure. The island’s reputation
are another option. rests squarely on the renown of its sweet

The rock climbing area is 2km off the road link-
ing Dingle with the National Hwy.