“MUSKIE HUNTING ON THE LOWER SUSQUEHANNA RIVER”

“MUSKIE HUNTING ON THE LOWER SUSQUEHANNA RIVER”

by Duane Drozdowski, Carlisle, PA

The mighty Susquehanna River. Perhaps some of you may have fished it for its’ large & plentiful
smallmouth bass, or have at least heard about it. Many muskie hunters, however, have never
been exposed to this majestic waterway. Perhaps you have driven across it on the Pennsylvania
turnpike, I-81, or even I-80, and have been at least curious about it. Well, your curiosity is
justifiable! It is a magnificent system, and yes, IT DOES SUPPORT our favorite fresh water
quarry, MUSKIES!!!

This river is both surprisingly expansive, and challenging to muskie hunters. The lower
Susquehanna is not like the more commonly muskie-fished rivers of western PA and elsewhere.
First, it is big, and tremendously diverse. In its upper reaches it can range from less than 100 feet
wide to approximately one quarter mile wide in its’ northern and western branches (north of
central PA). However, the lower river is a more consistant one half, to often one full mile wide-
from north of Harrisburg, continuing to the mouth on Chesapeake Bay. To generalize, the lower
Susquehanna can be somewhat overwhelming. It is quite expansive, surprisingly shallow in most
places, and somewhat difficult to evaluate and navigate. Although this may sound discouraging,
it does somewhat “set the stage” for an ideal, forage-rich muskie habitat. With a little study and
time on the water, much of the unproductive muskie water can be eliminated.

Although apparently not native to the Susquehanna River drainage, purebred and tiger muskies
have been “quietly” stocked for years. They can be found in the west branch- from west of
Williamsport, and also in the separate north branch, with its’ headwaters in New York state,
downstream through Scranton. The two branches then join at Northumberland in central PA and
the big river continues its’ much wider flow past Harrisburg. Although some very large muskies
have been caught in the western and northern branches (including a confirmed 42+ pounder), I
will focus on the lower river fishery south of I-80, downstream of Northumberland, to below
Harrisburg in Lancaster County.

According to our area fisheries manager, Larry Jackson, muskies (both strains) are stocked in the
Harrisburg region at random access points each year. Other stretches further upriver, and also the
larger tributaries, receive plantings every 2 years or so.The main river is apparently beginning to
receive fewer tigers and more pure-strains. Natural reproduction of pure-strains is suspected to
be limited or non-existant, although it is not known for sure. I believe muskies do in fact have
the capability to reproduce in the river as the proper habitat and forage requirements are indeed
available. Muskies have been historically caught in the lower river for more than 20 years.
Although muskies (mainly tigers) are caught below Safe Harbor dam in southern Lancaster
County, and in the Conestoga Creek below this dam, I prefer the stretches upstream from Safe
Harbor, around Harrisburg, and north of Harrisburg for greater opportunity for pure strains- and
in my estimation, larger fish.

The many stretches of river that meander through this region are broken-up by a combination of
low-head and “conventional” dams which create some measure of short “pool areas”. Also in
these stretches are a number of tributaries that support their own unique muskie fishery. They

are, namely, the well known and sizeable Juniata River just north of Harrisburg; which is
virtually a mini, “Susquehanna branch”; sharing many of the main river’s habitat types and
diversity. There is also the Conodoguinet Creek near Harrisburg in Cumberland County which
supports a number of stocked tigers in the deeper holes for many miles, as well as pure strains in
the lower mouth, and Dauphin County’s Swatara Creek which supports muskies from the mouth
in Middletown upstream to Hummelstown. Travel of any significant distance up these tributaries
by conventional power boat is relatively difficult, due primarily to a combination of shallow
conditions and shelf-rock. Like in the main river, persons with either shallow-draft johnboats,
canoes, or jet-powered shallow-drafts do the best, and can get further upstream. In addition to
these larger tributaries, other non-muskie supporting cold water “trout” creeks enter the river in
these areas and can be productive in the immediate lower mouth sections.

Keep in mind here that we are sometimes talking many miles between these creeks, and that the
main river may also be further “subdivided” by dams. Boaters can not continuously navigate to
all these areas, rather, one would have to put-in and out at various Fish Commission launches. It
would also take many days (if not weeks) to fish all of these main river stretches properly; not to
mention taking a stab at the muskies in the large tributaries. I could write a whole separate article
about the muskie fishery on the Juniata River tributary, but suffice it to say that 36" to lower 40"
fish have been commonly caught for more than 20 years from Raystown Dam to the big river,
with occasional fish in the mid 40" range and longer also being caught over the years.

Although the Susquehanna is very wide, as previously stated the lower river is mostly quite
shallow. It could be said that the lower Susquehanna averages about 3 to 4 feet deep. However,
this fluctuates greatly up and down the river, as well as from bank to bank. And as anyone with a
propeller (such as my formerly “jetless” self) can tell you, many portions of the river are only a
rocky 1 to 2 feet deep, especially in summer! This is not to say that these portions of the river are
without their deep holes or stretches. With “field research”, deeper areas ranging from 6 to 12
feet deep, and in a few areas close to 20 feet, can be found throughout the various stretches.
Often nearby, especially in the more rocky stretches, you will find old Mr. Esox. There are also
several “pool areas” with less structural features directly above dams, and some other stretches
which host conventional deep-vee powerboats, and muskies.

As you may now be picturing, the lower Susquehanna is a constantly changing array of
alternating ledgerock, shelves, faster current gravel riffles, slower-deeper boulder areas, gentle
shallow island-flats, grassy areas, with few conventional weedbeds or traditional deep weedlines.
As such, the river is famous for smallmouths by which it is more widely known. But this forage-
rich, diverse habitat proves to be quite hospitable to the lesser known muskie as well. Since the
main river is predominately less than four feet deep, the tributaries and feeder creek mouths are
also quite shallow. Where you often find gravel bars and deeper eddies above and below
tributary mouths in other rivers, this is not the case on the Susquehanna. Rather, these areas are
normally only 1 to 3 feet deep. The “trout creeks” often enter the river even shallower. Therefore
there is little holding structure, other than the current break, which have yielded muskies and are
worthy of a few casts.

What seems to be the most common “holding” areas with regard to the tributaries are the first
deep holes in the tributary, often well upstream from the mouth, and also the first deep hole in

the main river along the same bank below the tributary. This often may be more than a quarter
mile downstream! However, especially in the case of a “trout” creek, the cooler in summer (and
warmer in winter) “feeder water” hugs the bank, and changes the water temperature enough to
the muskies’ and/or baitfishes’ liking, even well downstream. Another similar type of holding
area, if you can find them, are mid-river spring seep holes found sporadically in the various
stretches. These high percentage areas are certainly places to concentrate your efforts.

Some other very common and more obvious areas to check are the visible current-breaking, deep
water “slots” between ledgerock. Sometimes the ledgerock is emergent, sometimes not,
depending on the water level. Conventional river bank and island eddies, if deeper than the
surrounding riverbottom, also hold fish. Also try the numerous mid-river “shelf eddies” where
faster currents flowing over shelf-rock “pool out” and change surrounding current flow, creating
slow moving holes below the shelves. Areas directly below low-head dams have also produced
for me. Generally, any area in or near water that is deeper than the main riverbottom, and slower
moving than the main current flow, is a potential jackpot.

Muskies in the Susquehanna are somewhat of legend and mystery to many local anglers. Not
much seems to be known of them, and a very few secretive anglers even pursue them. You could
say that much of the “old school” muskie-mystique still exists here. I think it is for good reason.
Although muskies seem to be mostly widely scattered in this big system, they show-up often
enough, sometimes by surprise, to scare your average cat-man or bassmaster. But as a result,
since the system is so wide ranging, relatively unstudied for muskies, and muskie fishing is just
not common, it is unknown how big some of these elusive, older specimens may be. In my
estimation, it is not a “dense” or “numbers” muskie fishery. Though many bass can be caught
daily, there are plenty of “muskie-less” days! Therefore, catch and release, especially of non-
trophies, is extremely important to this fishery. A minor point of frustration to some muskie
hunters could be the fact that the big river’s carrying capacity could likely handle more agressive
muskie stocking, and further study. Sadly, I’d be willing to bet that an unfortunate number of the
muskies which are stocked end up in the bellies of the numerous large bass in the river. That’s
because I know the bass like to inhale my muskie baits, which can be the same size as some of
the stocked muskies! Regardless, older muskies have tremendous opportunity to live, eat, range,
and grow- relatively free of pursuit because of the river’s size and challenging nature. And you
bet I’ve heard some impressive stories from credible anglers.

When considering the river’s forage base and lure selection, muskies here have a boundless
opportunity to feed. While they may occasionally take one of the numerous small channel cats,
small bass, rock bass, or a less common small walleye, they more likely feed primarily on the
abundant soft-rayed forage such as suckers, chubs (fall fish), and large minnows. There are also
numerous crayfish, frogs, and other “terrestrials” available. Muskie-sized bucktails arent thrown
much in the lower river, so they have been most effective for me. However, the smaller Bagley
muskie cranks work, among others, and I would not hesitate to bounce a Depth-raider or Swim-
Whizz off the rocks in the deeper holes.

Where on the river should you go to tackle a lower-river “Susque-lunge”? Your choices are
numerous. On some stretches you will enjoy pretty country scenery with hills and mountain
ledges, and in some areas you could be fishing next to the state capital or airport! They all have

some muskies. A word of caution- dont bring your deep-vee longshaft boat unless you plan on
fishing the waters at Goldsboro in York County above theYorkhaven dam, or around City Island
above the Dock-Street dam next to downtown Harrisburg. Although these waters undoubtedly
hold some muskies, they are also one of the few areas with any measure of boat traffic including
pontoons, waterskiing, and waverunners. The rest of the river is thankfully left to the fishermen
in shallow draft boats, and even waders!

There are many access points along the Susquehanna. Above the Safe Harbor dam to the York
Haven dam is a long stretch of river known as Accomac Pool/Lake Clarke. The entire length of
this pool is reputedly good for muskies with diverse habitat and deep water areas. There are
some @20 foot deep boulder channels and nice rock ledges below the York Haven dam. It is
fished a lot, however. There is also a warm water discharge a little further downstream which
attracts feeding muskies looking for baitfish, especially in winter. Best access is from the
Lancaster County side on route 441 at Falmouth.

Directly above York Haven dam is Goldsboro. This slow moving deeper stretch is also known as
Lake Frederic. As the name suggests, this stretch is quite lake-like, and is also home to the
infamous Three Mile Island nuclear power plant. Directly above the dam the depth approaches
20 feet and holds some muskies. Between the dam and Three Mile Island (TMI), the water holds
at around 7 feet, and is somewhat of a featureless gravel bottom. Above TMI the river begins to
become more shallow, but is striated with ledgerock, various deeper holes, gravel humps, and
other fish holding areas. In my opinion, these are the better locations for Goldsboro muskies.The
best access is at the town of Goldsboro on the York County side.

Upstream from Goldsboro, to the Dock Street (low head) dam in Harrisburg is a very interesting
and diverse stretch of “urban” muskie water. Here one approaches the capital city, and there are
some good ledgerock slots, current eddies, and deeper holes along the airport runway which lies
on the riverbank. Further upstream is the turnpike bridge where you will find more ledgerock,
small pockets, and island structure. Continuing upstream along Steelton near the steel plant is a
long, slow moving, deep water stretch filled with large submerged ledgerock slots and boulders.
Further upstream, along the borough of New Cumberland, are a variety of island eddies, holes,
shelf rock pools, ledgerock slots, and eventually the Dock Street low head dam. Public access is
limited on this stretch of river below the Dock Street dam. Access is easier for members of
private fishing clubs where there are private launches. To access this portion of the river
publicly, you will have to put-in at the Swatara Creek access (at the mouth) in Middletown, and
motor upriver in a shallow draft boat (props will require careful maneuvering).

Above the Dock Street dam along downtown Harrisburg is the slow moving, 5 to 8 foot deep
City Island area. This area is mostly featureless except for islands and bridge pilings. There are
conventional powerboating opportunities here. A little further upstream from City Island, the
river becomes a little shallower, around 3 feet, and is dotted with several island complexes and
associated “backwaters”. Recreational boating thins here, and shortly upstream the
Conodoguinet Creek enters on the western bank. Although possibly a classic “fish story”, a few
short years ago a story appeared in the local newspaper about a giant muskie, reportedly in the
mid-fifty inch range, being hooked near the mouth of the Conodoguinet by a bass angler, and
played to near boatside. A rough “paddle measurement” was attempted as best they could, and

confirmed by nearby boaters before the thin bass line eventually parted. Who knows? This
stretch is easily accessed on City Island (a deeper water launch), and on the west shore at West
Fairview (a shallower launch) at the Conodoguinet Creek mouth.

Next on our list upstream is the Fort Hunter access on the east shore, off Front Street above
Harrisburg. Just downstream from the launch is an amazing complex of islands, backwaters, and
holes around the I-81 bridge. Just upstream from the launch is the Dauphin Narrows area, where
there are deep water boulders and ledgerock slots in the 6 to 20 foot deep range. There are also
some large, slow moving holes in this area that could even be trolled. However, accessing these
waters from the Fort Hunter launch requires shallow draft boats as there are numerous shallow
shelves in the area extending across the river.

Upstream from the Dauphin narrows to Shermans’Creek is hard to access Perry County water.
This area is strewn with small islands, boulders, some ledgerock, and shelves. I have’nt fished
this stretch, and perhaps it has some potential due to limited access (you’ll have to access from
well downstream at Fort Hunter, or float downstream from around the Juniata) but I understand
this area is tough navigating with mostly shallow water, and a few deeper pools and holes.

Next upstream are the mouths of Shermans’ Creek, and a short distance upriver, the big Juniata.
Obviously these are potential key areas. However, access is limited to a public launch on the
Juniata at Amity Hall (well upstream from the mouth- and a definite “shallow draft only” ride
downstream), or a fee-launch at a private campground just downstream from the Juniata in
Duncannon, just off route 11/15.

Upriver from the Juniata is a long, less rocky stretch of water with many small and large islands.

Although I have not fished this stretch, like much of this big system it may harbor untapped
potential to score on an “unmolested” trophy. Use the Clemson Island access on Route 11/15 just
north of New Buffalo.

If you believe deep water pools below shelves and deep ledgerock areas will hold big muskies,
then consider the waters just downriver of the Montgomery Ferry access on 11/15. 12 foot deep
holes are present, among other structural elements.

In the town of Liverpool, there is an unmarked gravel access launch between the guardrails on
11/15, in the center of the bend on this roadway. If you put in here, and motor carefully in the
rocky shallows across the river and upstream along the mountain, you will be able to drift-fish a
very long stretch of ledgerock slots and boulders in the 3 to 6 foot depth range.

Further upriver, and eventually reaching Shamokin Dam near the confluence of the two
branches, you will encounter the Fish Commisssion’s Mahantango access, and then the Hoover
Island access, both on route 11/15. Mahantango will provide access to the Sweigerts’ Island
complex downriver, and a short distance upriver the rocky McKee Half Falls area. Above the
falls to Hoover Island is a long, less rocky, island-strewn stretch which includes the Mahanoy
and Penn’s Creek mouths. You’ve got so much water to read among all these stretches, so much
“structure” to try, it truly can be overwhelming. But therein lies the potential.

Getting back to “trophy potential”, just how big do these Susquehanna river muskies get? As I
mentioned, it is relatively unknown, but some pretty scarey stories persist. A trustworthy
catfishing acquaintance of mine has had a very large, near 50 inch ‘lunge “harrass” him in his
favorite catfish hole more than once, and apparently this big ‘lunge even grabbed a catfish he
was reeling-in one evening. Also, I have personally viewed a number of recent photographs of
quiet fishermen holding (apparently harvested) pure-strains in the mid twenty to lower thirty
pound range. These fish have come from the stretches betweenYork and Snyder counties. It does
appear that some of the few who fish muskies are keeping most fish caught, or if caught
incidentally they are often kept regardless of size. Sadly, it also seems that some still regard all
muskies as a “bad” fish- to be killed if caught. Hopefully these practices will become less
common along the river as education improves.

Although never hooked, I can also share with you my personal witness of a very large Susque-
lunge. I was fishing with my brother-in-law on a quiet weekday morning late last August in one
of the few fairly well known muskie areas. The water level was low and clear, so visibility was
quite good. I had the good fortune of hooking-up with a pretty 40-inch fish on a bucktail, and
had just released it when my brother-in-law quickly got back to business and cast a large
spinnerbait right back into the area where I had hooked the 40-incher. I was watching his
spinnerbait track back to the boat in the clear 5 foot deep water, when I saw a huge muskie a foot
behind the bait as it neared the boat. The fish was quite broad across the back compared to the
nice fish I just released, and an easy 4-foot plus. To our great disappointment, the fish turned
away and darted back on the “L-turn” at boatside, and we were unable to raise the fish again. I
know she’s still out there.............. practice CPR (Catch, Photograph, Release) on the river, and
good luck!