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Published by vanerio15, 2018-05-14 19:22:13

GEMMA magazine

A student created magazine called GEMMA. Learn more at vaneriodesign.com

GEMMA What Will You Do Today? FALL 2017

2 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Happiness is wearing jewelery!

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 3

Long Beach Antique Market

Flea market held the third Sunday of each
month.
Long Beach City College - Veterans
Memorial Stadium, 4901 E Conant St, Long
Beach, CA 90808

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FALL 2017 | GEMMA 7

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Getting Dirty with Jewelery

Tricks & Advice from the 20
Professionals

A Passion for the Unknown ASK BECKY

12 Defining Gold

Traveling in Search of 30
Hidden Tresures

FOCUS ON

14 Kendra Scott

The Price of Blood 36 $OLD FOR WHAT?!

Is it really worth paying 16 The Legedary Jewels
for a “girl’s best friend”?

Every Gem Has Its Own Story CUTS & BURNS

The Chinese Soul in 44 18 Loose Beach Stones Necklace
Contempoary Jewelry Design

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 11

ASK BECKY

Defining Gold

Q: What is the difference between platinum and white gold? by Roberta Underhill

A:Platinum (Pt ) is a very rare 14KT, and 18KT white gold used in 1. Platinum typically trades at a
malleable precious metal that is jewelry. To create white gold, pure significantly higher price than gold
coveted for its use in jewelry, Industry, gold is alloyed with copper, nickel, 2. Platinum used in jewelry weighs
and as a monetary instrument. and zinc, which lends it the white color approximately 70% more than similar
and add durability needed for jewelry volume of 14kt white gold.
The word platinum is derived from making. After melting the metals 3. Platinum is 95% fine versus 14kt
the Spanish word “platina”. Its earliest together the newly formed white white gold purity at 58.5%
ornamental use dates back to pre gold maintains a slight yellow cast . 4. Platinum melts at 3,215 F compared
Columbian times however platinum To offset the yellow tint, white gold to gold at 1,948 F making it very
was not used ornamentally in Europe jewelry is plated with a precious white difficult to work with.
until the late 1700’s. Early platinum metal rhodium.
work was very difficult to accomplish Platinum Advantages
due to its extreme melting point at of Platinum used in Jewelry has a
3215 degrees Fahrenheit. higher content of precious metal, Platinum maintains its white color
typically 95% pure. For this reason indefinitely whereas white gold will
Gold on the other hand has been platinum will retain its naturally pure need periodic rhodium plating.
used ornamentally since the beginning white color indefinitely. Its high level Platinum is more resistant to metal
of recorded history. Ancient statues, of purity also makes it heavier and fatigue and erosion and will endure a
coins, and jewelry can be traced back considerably more valuable than its longer life.
to nearly 6000 years. Gold, (Au) is a counterpart White Gold
precious malleable metal that is the White Gold Advantages
predominant metal used in fine jewelry Contrary to popular belief
and is commonly used in Industry, and platinum is actually softer than white White gold jewelry cost significantly
as a monetary instrument. gold and can endure many years of less than platinum.
wear without showing the signs of White gold is more resistant to
What Is White Gold? In order to fatigue that white gold jewelry exhibits. scratching. Wide and angular platinum
understand white gold we must first It is also significantly more expensive jewelry shows nicks and scratches
understand “Karat Pure gold is mixed for four primary reasons: more readily than white.
with other metals to create the 10KT,
A:Karat is a term used to indicate gold If you desire strong yellow color
Q: Which karat gold is purity. Pure gold is 24 karat. The from your jewelry, 18 karat gold will give
legal standard is to stamp gold jewelry you the richest yellow appearance. The
considered the best? with markings such as 10KT, 14KT and disadvantage to 18kt is that it is not as
18KT. The Karat stamp indicates the purity durable or cost efficient as 14kt. Opinions
of the metal. The number preceding the vary about the most desirable karat
KT marking indicates how many parts out from culture to culture. In America 14kt
of 24 are pure gold. The alloys mixed with has become the most popular gold
gold are added to control durability, color used in jewelry today due to its cost and
and the cost of fine jewelry. durability.

12 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Q:How can I identify what metal is my jewelry
made from?

A:It is a standard practice for ~Pins & Brooches- Trademarks and Q:What does the evil
jewelry to be stamped or stamps are usually located on the really mean?
etched with markings indicating metal back or the pin itself. Occasionally
content. These stamps, hallmarks, you can see a karat marking on the A:Evil Eye is one of the strongest
and trademarks are usually located in edge of the brooch. symbolic images in the world. The
inconspicuous areas on the jewelry so ~Stick Pins- The shaft of the pin or evil eye meaning dates back almost
as not to detract from the design. the back of the featured area will 3,000 years to ancient Greece and Rome.
~Rings- Inside the ring you should usually be stamped or marked with Wearing an evil eye as an amulet is
be able to locate a mark or stamp metal content. Do not be deceived by believed to provide protection against
indicating the karat, and the maker. markings on the sliding clutch. They evil forces. The evil eye meaning has
The stamp is often located at 9:00 are often made from a lesser value symbolism in almost every country in
or 3:00 as you look through the ring. metal. the world and in every religion, such as
This location allows for ring sizing ~Earrings- Hoops earrings are Judaism, Islam, Hindu, Buddhism, and
and is distant from where stones or stamped at the hinge. Larger button Christianity.
designs that may be located. and dangle earrings are typically
~Lite Chains and Link Bracelets- The stamped on the reverse side. For The evil eye is a look given to inflict
end of a chain will often have a smaller earrings such as studs you harm, suffering, or some form of bad
flattened ring with markings denoting may have to rely on the earring back. luck on the person that it is cast upon.
the precious metal content. If the (This is not reliable as backs are Giving someone “the evil eye” is a look
bracelet does not the Spring Ring, interchangeable) which clearly states that one intends for
Lobster Claw, or Clasp should be ~Watches- The case back and clasp something bad to happen to the other
marked. should be clearly marked if there person, either out of jealousy or pure
~Heavy Chains and Link Bracelets- are precious metals present. When malice. It is believed by many cultures that
The ends of larger link jewelry inspecting pocket watches the case the look is powerful enough to bring about
are often fitted with sleeve type back may have to be open to locate actual disaster for the unfortunate person
connectors that meet the clasp. This metal markings, maker, movement, that is the receiver of the glare.
fitting may be stamped with the karat and case numbers.
and maker markings. If a hallmark is In many cultures, excessive praise or
not present it may be on the clasp. Now that you have located the receiving admiration beyond what is truly
~Solid and Bangle Bracelets- Solid stamps and markings on your jewelry, deserved can bring upon the scorn of
Bracelets are typically stamped what do they mean? There are two the evil eye, which was believed to cause
inside. Hinged slide bangles are dominant standards that you are physical and mental illness. Ashkenazi Jews
stamped with metal purity stamps on likely to encounter when examining believe that excessive praise causes a
the widest portion of the spring bar your jewelry. One is The Karat system vulnerability to the evil eye, and will repeat
that slides in and out of the bracelet. that is used in The United States and a Yiddish phrase, “Keyn aynhoreh!” meaning
~Pendants- There should be a karat Canada. The other is the Decimal “no evil eye” in order to protect against it.
stamp on the back of pendants system used throughout much of the
which have a large enough surface to rest of the world.
mark. You may also find the gold or
karat marking on the bail or the loop Got questions for Becky? Send your
supporting the pendant. questions to [email protected].

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 13

FOCUS ON

Kendra Scott

From a young age, Kendra What was your first job out of college by Meghan Freierv
always knew she and how did you land that position?
wanted to work in fashion, thanks to Actually, my first business venture Necklace, remains one of our most
the influence of her aunt who worked began when I was just 19. After popular styles.
as a department store buyer. She first experiencing my stepfather’s battle
ventured into the world of fashion with cancer, I opened The Hat Box in Did you have any formal training in
at just 19 years old by opening a hat Austin, a hat boutique whose proceeds jewelry design and creation? How did
boutique in Austin, Texas. After an benefitted cancer research. I’ve always you come to realize your talent?
eventual career change and fashion been an entrepreneur at heart and Watching and learning from my Aunt
hiatus, she transformed her “daily giving back to others was a value Jo as a child, a buyer for a major
escape” hobby of creating jewelry into instilled in me at a young age. department store, I always knew I
a fashion powerhouse. wanted to be in the fashion industry.
What was the first piece of jewelry My first entry into this industry was
Fashion isn’t the only passion in you ever made? How have your with The Hat Box, but when life took
Kendra’s blood; she also values the art designs evolved? my career elsewhere as an advertising
of giving back to the community. From If you’re familiar with my jewelry representative, creating jewelry
her first business venture to her current line, you won’t be surprised to know became my fun escape. As my
company, Kendra has consistently that the first piece I designed was a interest for the hobby grew, I started
incorporated the importance of turquoise nugget necklace. I have taking classes on jewelry design and
philanthropic efforts into her life. always loved the rich, gorgeous color teaching myself how to create jewelry
Kendra’s big heart and dedication to and texture of turquoise and the pop of by breaking apart vintage pieces
giving back, combined with her bold color it adds to any look. Our current and re-creating new jewels from the
designs, make her a shining role model turquoise nugget necklace, the Harlow materials. When the time was right,
for girls everywhere. I used my passion as a foundation to
start a business of my own.

14 GEMMA | FALL 2017

You created your jewelry company comes to fashion and it was an absolute Jade
with only $500. What did you first dream come true to see my jewelry
invest in? What did you focus on to grace his designs on the runway. I by Hobart King
start Kendra Scott? would love to have the opportunity to “Jade” is a cultural term used for a very
After selling my designs as well as my work with him again. durable, and often beautiful, material that
actual first sample set of jewelry to local has been fashioned into tools, sculptures,
Austin boutiques, I invested the profits What is the most important lesson jewelry, gemstones, and other objects
in buying new materials. Seeing the you’ve learned as an entrepreneur? for over 5,000 years. It was first used to
incredibly positive response to my first Being a successful entrepreneur means manufacture ax heads, weapons, and tools
collection, I knew I had caught onto constantly growing and learning. I for scraping and hammering because of its
something and I was determined to have received so much incredible toughness.
go big. In order to do that, I focused advice from others and have learned
on differentiating the brand by finding tremendous lessons from my own Then, because some specimens had
a white space in the jewelry market. I experiences. The most important a beautiful color and could be polished to
saw that there weren’t many jewelry lesson I’ve learned in recent years is a brilliant luster, people started to use jade
companies creating beautifully, the benefit of creating an interactive for gemstones, talismans, and ornamental
handcrafted pieces at an attainable platform for our customer engagement. objects. Although most people who
price point, so I started designing with It is my goal for people not to just wear think of jade imagine a beautiful green
that in mind. our jewels but to be involved and gemstone, the material occurs in a wide
recognize our brand as something they variety of colors that include green, white,
What is your career highlight thus far? want to be a part of. We do this through lavender, yellow, blue, black, red, orange,
While I have experienced so many providing “WOW” customer service and and gray.
surreal moments in my career, the through continuous interaction on our
opening of our flagship Austin store in many social media platforms. Originally, all jade objects were thought
the heart of the SOCO district was a to be made from the same material.
true highlight. Having a Kendra Scott What advice would you give to your However, in 1863 a Frenchman, Alexis
boutique was a dream I had for years, 23-year-old self? Damour, discovered that the material
and though I knew Austinites would First I would say, “Ask questions! Look known as “jade” could be divided into two
love and support it, I could not have for mentors! Never give up! Ask for different minerals: jadeite and nephrite.
imagined the immense, immediate help! Continue to believe in yourself
success of the store. The prosperity and surround yourself with people Because these two materials can be
we experience at the Austin store is who also believe in you.” When I was difficult to distinguish, and because the
the fuel that drives our store openings, just ending my career with The Hat word “jade” is so entrenched in common
like the ones in Beverly Hills, Dallas, Box, I had a lot of questions about language, the name “jade” is still widely
Houston Rice Village, Scottsdale and what I was going to do next. I lacked used across many societies, industries, and
the Houston CityCentre store that will a lot of confidence. I wish I could academic disciplines.
be opening soon. go back and say, “Just wait because
there’s something really incredible
If you could choose one fashion just around the corner!” I know now
designer to collaborate with, who that there are no mistakes in life. I
would it be? would also caution that, “You will go
I was actually lucky enough to through tough times that you won’t
collaborate with one of the designers understand, but those things are the
I idolize most – Oscar de la Renta. He fuel driving your future that’s going be
is at the top of the food chain when it very bright and very exciting!”

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 15

$OLD FOR WHAT

The Legendary Jewels by Natalie Dejour

The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor

Known for her prodigious love affair with jewelry, The collection $old
Elizabeth Taylor amassed an astounding collection of for the value of
jewels over her lifetime. This legendary collection, along
with other personal possessions, was sold at Christie’s $137,235,575
New York in December 2011. The two-day sale of 270
lots realized a staggering $156.8 million, with the jewelry Location of the auction: Christie’s New York,
portion accounting for $137.2 million of the total. December 13th & 14th, 2011

Shattering records left and right, the sale garnered
worldwide attention with its sensational jewels by major
jewelry houses, including Bulgari, David Webb, Cartier
and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as specially commissioned
pieces by JAR.

The Taj Mahal Diamond

The Taj Mahal Diamond, an Indian diamond and jade
pendant necklace (attached to a matching ruby and
gold chain designed for the piece by Cartier), was a gift
from Richard Burton on Elizabeth Taylor’s 40th birthday.
This historic jewel soared above its pre-sale estimate of
$300,000-500,000 to an astounding hammer price of
$8,818,500, representing a record price for any Indian jewel
ever sold at auction.

Set with an inscribed heart-shaped table-cut
diamond, within a red stone and jade mount set with
table-cut diamonds, the reverse decorated with an
enamel latticework motif, from a gold neckchain set with
cabochon rubies and old mine-cut diamonds, mounted in
gold, inscribed heart-shaped table-cut diamond bearing
the Islamic date 1037 [1627-1628], gold and enamel cage
of later addition, neckchain circa 1972, length adjustable,
pendant suspends 17 ins. at longest

16 GEMMA | FALL 2017

The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond Ring

The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, a 33.19 D-color, potentially
Internally Flawless diamond that sold for $8,818,500 and
set a record price per carat at $265,697.

A gift from Richard Burton in 1968, The Elizabeth
Taylor Diamond was a constant in Ms. Taylor’s life and
became the ring that she wore virtually every day for
more than three decades. Bought at auction as the Krupp
diamond, for $300,000, it was renamed in homage to this
spectacular gem’s most glamorous owner.

La Peregrina

The sale was headlined by La Peregrina, a 16th century
pearl necklace, which sold for $11,842,500. The
necklace set two world auction records: for an historic
pearl piece (obliterating the $2.5 million record set by La
Regente at Christie’s Geneva sale in 2005) and for a pearl
jewel more generally (surpassing the $7 million record paid
for The Baroda Pearls at Christie’s New York sale in 2007).

The Richard Burton Ruby and Diamond Ring

The Richard Burton Ruby and Diamond Ring, of 8.24 carats,
by Van Cleef & Arpels, was a Christmas gift from Richard
Burton in 1968. Burton had promised to buy his wife a special
ruby, with perfect red color (“But it has to be perfect”, he
warned at the time). Four years after making the promise, he
tucked a small box into the bottom of Elizabeth’s Christmas
stocking – so small that she missed it when opening her gifts.
This ring sold for $4,226,500, setting a record for a ruby per
carat at $512,925.

Find out more at www.christies.com.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 17

CUTS & BURNS

Loose Beach Stones Necklace byKatie Roberts

Loose natural stone necklaces are made
from loose natural gemstones. Loose
gemstones include diamonds, rubies,
sapphires, garnets and amethysts. These
types of necklaces are popular in jewelry
making.

Seeing as I am about to embark on a
birthday holiday and September is the season
for birthdays (nine months after new years…
use your imagination…or not) I decided an
easy gift giving idea was in order.
Macrame gemstone necklaces are not only
easy to make they can be a very personal
present when you choose the specific
crystals or trinkets you would like to store in it.

MATERIALS: First up you will need four equal lengths of cotton, the length is up to you but will
-waxed cotton or crochet cotton- I have determine how long your necklace will be. Remember that braiding and knotting
made them using both options before and will take up some thread length. Each one of my equal lengths were around 2.5
they are equally as good, but photographed meters long for this project.
is crochet cotton option.
-beads- optional but good for holding stones
in place.
-stones or trinkets- gemstones are great
options but this project can be used for
shells, coral or bone.
-around an hour (the four way braid takes a
little while).

Step one and two-
Holding all four lengths of cotton, tie a knot (base knot) in the centre of all four
strands. You will now have eight equal length strands to work with to create your
crystal holder (this is sounding just like the pot plant holder DIY because they are
virtually the same project!)

18 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Step three-
Separate the strands into pairs and tie a knot in each pair, you
will have to keep in mind the size of the gem stone you would
like the bag to hold. If the gems are small your paired cotton
knots will be tied lower down (near the base knot) creating a
smaller weave so stones don’t escape.

Step four (and beyond)-
From your paired knots you can tie each individual strand to its
neighbour. You will notice as you do this that a ‘bag’ shape starts
to form. You can keep tying neighbouring strands together until
you get the ‘depth’ required for the gemstones you have in
mind. Again the size of holes the ‘netted bag’ you are creating
will be determined by the size of the gemstones you would like
it to hold.

Once you have the depth required you will take four strands in
each hand and tie a knot at the top of the ‘bag’ on each side.
This will leave you with two ‘necklace’ lengths, each with four
strands of cotton. From here you will four strand braid each
side of the necklace together (this is the longest part of the
whole project).

When your braids are complete knot the end of each strand
so they don’t unravel, then slide your bead/s over both strands
to sit at the top of your gemstone bag. Then tie both of the
braids together at your desired necklace length.

There you have it. A super easy (and dare I say it,
inexpensive) way to keep all the fussy Virgo’s and some
balanced Libran’s that sneak in at the end, happy for the
September birthday month.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 19

Getting

Dirtywith

Tricks & Advice from the Professionals

20 GEMMA | FALL 2017

h Jewelery

by Jack Meyer 21

FALL 2017 | GEMMA

For this article, I’ve gathered good advice can always tell the difference between a
given to me both as I was building my design drawing from someone who has never
career as well as advice my other fellow touched a piercing saw and from someone
tutors have given to students, and included who has. The insight you gain from knowing
some pointers of my own. For the sake of how certain manufacturing processes are
efficiency, I have sorted the suggestions into done (and from what my colleagues call
a list of Do’s and Don’ts. Also, I’ve included “having a feel for the materials”) makes a big
advice for both those who are coming out difference in the design drawings you make–
of school for a new career as well as those the more you know about how jewellery is
who are already working in a different field assembled, the more likely you are to draw
and who which to change their career. something which can actually be made.

What To Do Again, I’m not saying you have to become
a master craftsman to be a good designer,
DO but you do need to know what the craftsmen
Learn to Draw!!! are actually doing at their benches, and
what they can and cannot get away with in
The first question my colleagues and I ask your assembled and set jewellery pieces.
anyone who is interested in getting started
in jewellery or product design is: “Can you DO
draw?” I’m not saying you have to be as good Learn As Much As You Can
a draftsman as Albrecht Dürer, or that you There’s an old saying among teachers: The
even have to necessarily be good enough time put into learning skills is never wasted.
to draw a convincing human being. The key Even if it seems like what you’re learning won’t
is being sufficiently good at drawing that be immediately relevant, nearly any skill you
you can “think on paper”, as it helps you could learn has some part of it which can be
to be able to work through and experiment transferred over into another field. Richard N.
with design ideas much more efficiently than Bolles called these “transferable skills” in his
you ever could on the bench or in front of fantastic career guidance book What Color is
a computer screen. (Contrary to popular Your Parachute (which I heartily recommend

The time put into learning skills is never wasted.

belief, CAD is not a particularly good initial to those of you who are changing careers.)
conceptualisation tool, although it can help For example, you spend 6 months at the
people see already thought out designs in 3D.)
GIA learning to be a gemologist, but then
The more I think about it, the more I really decide to become a designer. Does that
cannot stress this enough. Any time you spend mean your gemology training is wasted? Not
getting good at drawing will help your creative at all. Your knowledge of applied geology
and conceptualisation skills overall. No matter and ideal proportions informs your drawings
how bad you think you are at this right now, if of gemstones, as well as your ability to set
you do it often enough, you will get better. those stones in the most visually pleasing
way with the least risk to cracking the stone.
DO
Or as another example: suppose
Get Your Hands Dirty (as much as possible) you put the time into learning 3D CAD
The next question my colleagues and I modelling, but then decide to go back to
ask: “Have you worked at a bench?” the bench and fabricate jewellery by hand.
Your time working with computer aided
Strange as it may sound, manufacturers model making tends to affect the way you

22 GEMMA | FALL 2017

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 23

plan ahead and approach building jewellery, learning how to be technically precise can money is because so many students seem
as you now use more measurements and cramp budding creativity, and vice versa. to confuse buying the book or taking a class
layout drawings than you did before, and with learning a craft. Ever been to anyone’s
you more carefully consider whether certain And this brings us to the importance house and found a perfectly pristine copy of
components are more efficiently made by of the existence of both art schools an art or jewellery technical manual on their
hand or computer for your purposes. and technical training courses, and why shelf which has never been opened? Funnily
both types of training are necessary. enough, I’ve found the more books on a
DO subject I’ve seen at someone’s house, the
Consider Art School (but not necessarily Art schools teach you more more likely they are to have never been used.
for reasons you’d expect…) than just design drawing, they teach
Another related question to our main topic techniques to help with creativity. While I will never understand how
would be: Do you go to art school or not? it happens, my colleagues and I have
If you can take a few evening classes and It seems to me the whole point of seen students on courses who have the
practice on your own, why should you pay studying an art degree is not necessarily to same mindset. Perhaps they’re taking
thousands of pounds and take several learn how to work with specific tools, but the course on a lark, or perhaps they’ve
years off just to live the university life? rather to give the students the protected been pushed to take this course for some
environment they need in which to learn how external reason. Either way, the student just
This one is a harder question to answer, to really be creative without having to answer shows up, does the course work, and that’s
and would of course be based upon how to professional deadlines. In this environment, the end of it. And of course six months
much money you have to help you make the there is no penalty for making mistakes or later they’ve forgotten everything.
career change. Interestingly, I’ve talked about taking chances. Later on in your career, that
it with my colleagues, and most of us come time is gold dust, as you’ll be much more One limitation with any sort of training
down firmly in favour of going to art school, willing to try bigger ideas or take risks. or instruction is that there’s only so much
but not for the reasons you might expect. time we can spend in class letting you try
If you were to visit any art school, what you’ve learned. Past a certain point,
The most common criticism I’ve heard regardless of the curriculum, the biggest it’s always going to be up to you to apply
leveled against BA degrees in jewellery thing they all seem to have in common is what you’ve learned in your own ways.
design in the UK and USA is that while these how strongly they protect their students. Indeed, the big differentiator in terms of how
art schools do teach some jewellery making You can almost feel when you enter the art students do in any of the diploma courses I
techniques, they don’t give a thorough department of a university, as the rules and or my colleagues have taught is how much
education in proper professional skills for tensions of the real world are discouraged that student practices on their own.
manufacturing jewellery. Most people expect from entering, and students are encouraged
that if you’re going to spend 3-4 years at to explore whatever ideas strike their fancy. In short, the more you practice what
art school learning jewellery design, you you’ve learned out of class or after a class
should be able to work as a professional This is why art school is valuable. has finished, the better off you’ll be with that
jeweller when you’re finished, right? Once you have that kind of creativity in skill. While there is a chance you may do a
you, then you can learn the practical skills portfolio worthy design in your design class,
Not quite. Here’s why: from a technical diploma from a trade your best portfolio work will nearly always be
Most professional designers (and design school, work experience, or even short the things you do entirely on your own. And
tutors) will agree that creativity is a separate courses, and you’ll benefit all the more. that practice will make a difference in how
skill from manufacturing. Each one takes soon you get hired more than anything else.
years of work depending on the student, and Now as to whether you should
even then it can take years of application start with a technical diploma or a more What NOT to DO
to get good and efficient at it. The problem creative degree, that’s a good question.
is (and this was definitely confirmed by My colleagues are divided about this, DON’T
colleagues of mine both at technical courses and I’m kind of on the fence itself. For Try to Take Shortcuts Into Industry
as well as design courses) is that it’s nearly now though, I’ll simply say that it doesn’t I lost count long ago of the number of
impossible to teach both technical skills and seem to matter which one you do first. prospective student who came here who
creativity at the same time. It seems each thought if they could just learn CAD, that
respective type of training goes in opposite DO will be all they would need to know to
directions and interferes with the other– Practice What You’ve Learned make jewellery. It doesn’t help that many
After the Course
I’ve long suspected the whole reason why
art instruction book writers make so much

24 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Art schools teach you more than just design drawing, they teach techniques to help with creativity.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 25

CAD salesmen whom I have met will sell It’s always going to be up to you to apply what you’ve lea
any prospective students CAD software
whether it would be useful to them or not.
(No names, but you know who you are.)

Theoretically, you could make simple
jewellery with just about any piece of 2D
or 3D CAD software. However, without
any knowledge of manufacturing, the
odds of your successfully making a piece
of jewellery in CAD which could actually
be physically produced are fairly low, as I
have discovered the hard way whenever
I’ve tried to teach CAD to someone who
knows nothing of jewellery making.
Think about it from another perspective—if
you were to ask a bespoke shoe designer
to make you a shoe, you’d expect him
to know something about how shoes are
made. The same goes for furniture design,
car design, architecture, etc. Jewellery is no
different, and the fact so many people try
to take a shortcut with the craft shows how
underestimated jewellery design often is.

Quite simply, put the time in. Even
if it seems like you’re learning to suck
eggs, that time is never wasted. Every
good master goldsmith I’ve ever talked to
agrees that being a good jeweller requires
a tremendous amount of knowledge,
and nobody can learn it all at once.

DON’T
Limit Yourself to One Area or Design/
Manufacturing Style (or, at least not at first)
Another common mistake with people who
haven’t fully learned the details of a new
field is knowing about all the nuances and
specialties in that field. Not only that, but
often new students don’t yet fully see what
going into certain specialties really means.

As often happens, you never know whether
you’ll still like a field or not after you’ve tried
it out. Also, there may be another specialty
you didn’t know exist which could turn out
to be the right one for you. And since no
training is wasted, having tried these various
fields will make you a better overall jeweller,
even if you don’t directly use them yourself.

26 GEMMA | FALL 2017

ve learned in your own ways. DON’T a struggle to get customer’s attention. It’s
Be Afraid To Take Work Experience a struggle to come up with a new idea to
Now for the bad news about working stay one step ahead of the competition or
in the jewellery industry—contrary to the next season’s trends, and so forth.
popular belief, jewellers rarely make good I’ll let you in on a little secret—there’s
money. It’s a step or two above fine artist, one trait all my best students have
yes, but it’s definitely not a field you get in common. It’s not talent. It’s not
into if you’re financially motivated. intelligence, it’s not even coordination.

Not only that, but becoming a …It’s desire.
professional jeweller requires a LOT of I’ve found the single attribute which
knowledge. Unfortunately, much like makes the most difference in terms of a
other types of commercial design, getting student’s ability to progress and succeed
this experience is hard to come by. is how badly they want it. Sure, the other
attributes help, but without desire, all
The solution? Take any chance you the talent, intelligence and skill one
can to learn the craft from a tradesman. person can hold are basically wasted.
Is there an apprenticeship? See if they’ll I remember one artist saying to me a
take you. Is there work experience? few years back: “The first thing I’d say to an
Go for it! Basically, get the practice in aspiring artist? You will never succeed. Just
anywhere you can, with anyone you can. give up now. Now if they still didn’t give up

If you can stick with it long enough, you will get there.

This is precisely why Holts Academy after my saying that, then they may have what
reinstated the UK government-backed it takes. You will cry blood to get an audience
apprenticeship scheme, to help industry to listen to you, and you will work insane
newcomers find a way to pay for their hours, which will make it all the more sweeter
learning. Likewise, their various professional when you do finally get a customer…”
certificates and diplomas can be taken with
government subsidy or other financial aid. So, don’t give up. One of the senior
If you’re not in the UK, don’t fret, there are management at Garrard once told me:
international counterparts to us in other “I’ve found the jewellery field tends to
countries. Let me know which country you’ reward loyalty. If you can stick with it
re in and I’ll see what I can find out. long enough, you will get there.”

DON’T Conclusion
Get Discouraged
Stephen Webster didn’t build a successful Whether you’re changing a career or
jewellery business overnight. It took many starting a new one, it never hurts to find
years and hard work to get there. out as much as you can about what you’re
getting yourself into. It is my hope that the
Every professional designer I’ve ever information above proves of some use to
talked to can share a story about how hard those looking to get started in jewellery.
they worked to get where they are. For
some strange reason I don’t know if I’ll ever For further reading, one great
understand, there has always been something resource for providing newcomers
intensely competitive about the creative to the jewellery field has been
industry. it’s a struggle to get noticed by thegetintojewellery.org website. It is a
the admissions board at the art school. It’s wonderful resource for allowing students
to ask for advice and look for opportunities
for education and experience.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 27

“Forget what we
became, focus on
what we’re capable

of becoming.”

Aniekee Tochukwu Ezekiel

28 GEMMA | FALL 2017

“The purpose of life
is not to be happy.
It is to be useful, to
be honorable, to be
compassionate, to
have it make some
difference that you

have lived and
lived well.”

Ralph Waldo Emerson

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 29

fPassion

or
the

Unknown

30 GEMMA | FALL 2017

A ntiques are like old books. They hold • Photographs of 19th or early 20th
a limitless universe of knowledge century celebrities or transportation.
waiting patiently to be revealed.
Like a red violin, waiting for it’s next owner as • Fashion photos by well-
it passes through history from generation to known photographers.
generation. And people who collect antiques are
as passionate about their collections as they are • American Indian subjects; historical
about the pursuit and discovery of something landmarks and events.
old that brings them closer to the past.
• Books in good condition with a dust
An antique, by definition, is an object at least cover and no missing pages.
a hundred years old. Many are heirlooms that
have been handed down from generation to • Old toys and vintage clothing.
generation: furniture, silver, china, stoneware, • Turn of the century furniture.
folk art, quilts, toys and other family collectibles.
Some antiques are treasured finds that evoke There is no right or wrong way to collect
a nostalgic memory or tradition. Others are antiques, but remember, items of good design
collected because of their monetary value and beauty are as important as price.
such as furniture, art and historic pieces.
Serious Collectors, like Jeff Wilson from
Europe’s old markets, Portobello Northfield, Minn. are well aware of the lure of the
Road and Bermondsey in London, Porta hunt. Wilson has been collecting antiques ever
Portunese in Rome, El Rastro in Madrid and since he could remember. “My family collected
Le Marche’ aux Puces in Paris, have been so I was always surrounded by old things,” he
notes. “My love for antiques can’t be focused on
one thing. It extends to anything eclectic and
eccentric. I collect things that evoke a story. When
I look at a piece I wonder why it survived. Why

They hold a limitless universe of knowledge

waiting patiently to be revealed.

Traveling in Search enticing collectors for ages. Millions have did people take care of this piece and preserve
of Hidden Tresures. cut their collector’s teeth in the crowded, it through the years? What made it special;
nostalgic lanes of these antique markets. the curve of the wood, the fabric, a memory?
by Pioneer Thinking & Invaluable That’s the lure that draws me into antiques.”
Collecting and antiquing also remains a
top leisure time activity in the United States. Among the collections of Wilson, and
Antique Road Show, E-Bay, and American his wife, Lisa, are antique chairs, Christmas
and European flea markets are thriving. ornaments, books, tea cups, tea pots – the list
is long. But Wilson will readily admit that his
A subculture of avid collectors have been favorite antique is his 1872 American Gothic
born, filling the urge to acquire through tag style house — a perfect place for a person
sales, estate sales, flea markets, antique who cherishes preservation of the past.
shops and open air antique fairs. Located on
city streets, or a mile or two down country Being able to incorporate his love of
roads, these sales often brim with coveted antiquing into his job is a perk for Wilson. As vice-
treasures, or junk just waiting to be renewed president of design and product development
and transformed into something functional. at Midwest of Cannon Falls, a Minnesota-
based giftware company, Wilson has had the
And just what types of items do people opportunity to introduce some of his antique
search far and wide to acquire? A few of pieces into the company’s line, manufacturing
the most sought after antique pieces for them as antique replicas. “We are very clear
serious and nostalgic collectors include: in stating that we are not trying to pass our
• Items that are amusing or have replicas off as antiques,” Wilson stresses. “We
are making reproductions of antiques that are
historical significance. affordable and accessible to people who may
• Political subjects, cars, airplanes, balloons,

Western subjects and well known artists.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 31

not have access to original antiques due to Talking with other collectors, the consensus
price points or availability. Yet, if you put the was they often purchased replicas to fill in their
original and the replica side by side, you may collections. One woman said that not everyone
have difficulty telling which is which. The quality could afford to acquire all the original antiques
and detail of our reproductions are that good.” they wanted and complimenting with replicas
simply added to the wholeness of her collection.
Wilson isn’t the only one with the antique bug It also satisfied her desire for a particular
at Midwest of Cannon Falls. CEO and president piece she couldn’t afford, or sometimes filled
Kathy Brekken has done her share of antiquing in when she couldn’t locate the original.
and after heading up the family business
for nearly 20 years, has found it a refreshing The big question that lies behind each
resource for “researching” new product ideas. antique, reproduction or just plain junk that you
couldn’t resist purchasing is, “What do I do with
She reminisces, “Thanks to my Grandma, I’ve this when I get it home?” We turned to other
always liked old ‘stuff’. My Mother is a far more experts at Midwest of Cannon Falls to give us
practical-oriented individual and had little time some direction. We found that creating a personal
for things that just sat around to be dusted. I statement in today’s decorating dovetails with
would go with my Grandma into her attic and I the trend of antiquing and flea market finds.
loved the idea of a connection to the past. My

There is no right or wrong way to collect antiques.

Grandma and Grandpa had many things that “Antiques and flea market finds have become
were family heirlooms: the desk my Grandfather’s so popular in decorating,” states Ingrid Liss,
family brought from Maine to the Midwest; the creative director of the company. “Shabby chic is
lovely Chinese tapestries and furniture from an considered today’s most popular trend. Items that
ancestor who raised her family in Shanghai.” have been discarded are now being retrieved and
revived. The trend includes mixing items whose
Brekken is just as enthusiastic about antique elegance has faded over time with newer styles.
reproductions. “I love the concept of replicas You’ll find the patina of age and wear resonates
because it allows people to have a sense of with beauty and personality.” Liss stresses not
history and older style without having to pay the worrying about the correct mix. The content isn’t
price for it. Midwest of Cannon Falls’ replicas as important as is the expression. “The mix will be
are wonderful because they are so exact right if it is truly an expression of one’s personal
and true to the original. Our sources excel in taste,” states Liss. The simple, practical, quiet style
duplicating pieces, so using original antiques of shabby chic has evolved into reviving furniture,
for reproduction fit their skill set perfectly. And, fabrics and home accessories that offer casual
frankly, we couldn’t redesign it better!” She appeal, allowing for a mixture of old and new.
adds, “Replicas are reminiscent of a time and
a look, and I love that. Unfortunately for my The eclectic mix of decorating with
pocketbook, when it comes to my personal antiques offers an undeniable personal
buying, I prefer the truly old and original. statement. A slight imperfection adds a sense
of history. A worn finish can actually enliven
“I do particularly love one piece we the room with character. By adding affordable
replicated. Jeff Wilson and I were at an antique antique replicas or reconstructing old junk
market near the Louvre in Paris and found as accents to original antiques, people are
some lovely bronzes – small, in a style that able to compliment the old with the new,
could fit many homes, but way too pricey for while retaining the story of each piece.
most. I bought a small bronze dog holding a
top hat (the hat was intended to hold match If you like shabby chic decorating,
sticks). We reproduced this item and now the ideas are endless:
have a piece that is virtually identical to the • old furniture of any kind that can be
original for a fraction of the price. The original
was over $800 and ours retails for only $17!” repainted, re-hardwared and reupholstered.

32 GEMMA | FALL 2017

• lamps and chandeliers that can is a strong focus on items from the Pennsylvania
be painted and rewired. Dutch and early American handicrafts so look
to find handcrafted quilts, cross-stitch, rustic
• vintage fabrics that can be reused handmade furnishings and more. There are also
as furniture covers, curtains, dresser countless European-style pieces to be found of
scarves, wall decor, etc. exceptional quality and craftsmanship among
the many dealers and shops of Bucks County.
• crocks, firewood and coal carriers,
tin pie cupboards and bread boxes For a well-curated selection of colonial era
that can be used as functional accent furnishings, and 18th century finds head to G.
pieces (reused as spoon holders, Evans Antiques in Lambertville. It’s likely you’ll
magazine racks, spice shelves, etc.) be able to find a piece of American history
to bring home with you and appreciate for
• old doorknobs, hinges and locks that can be generations to come. Plan your trip through
recycled as coat hooks or furniture accents. Bucks County with this comprehensive list
of must-visit antique shops and vendors.
As you can see, there are many facets of
antiquing: The serious collector who looks for New Orleans, Louisiana
the monetary and historical value in antiques;
the collector who buys out of nostalgia and This lively southern city is more than gumbo and
reflects personal tastes; those who purchase jazz (although what’s not to love about that?). New
original antiques with the intent to replicate Orleans’ unique history and gulf-side geography
and supplement the market; the buyer who is have made it a repository for the treasures of
interested in antique junk to create their own French explorers, Spanish seamen, Southern
piece of artwork or turn it into a functional aristocrats, and adventure seekers alike. It’s
piece to fit today’s personal lifestyles. colorful creole history offers a French-influenced
flair to the many artifacts you’ll likely uncover
There is no right or wrong way to collect from a truly romantic era in American history.
antiques, but remember, items of good design
and beauty are as important as price. Buy what For an outstanding selection of 18th and
you personally like and are compelled to collect, 19th century art and drawings in antique frames
and incorporate these pieces into your homes visit Balzac Antiques. The hocus pocus side
in ways that fit your own lifestyle. This way the of New Orleans with it’s voodoo magic, ghost
age-old passion for antiquing and cherishing stories, and vampiric lore add an element of the
the past will never fade or loose its patina. unknown to the oddities you may uncover.

T his summer, on your way back from Hudson, New York
the sandy beaches and emerald
green forests that make for lifelong A quick drive (or train ride) from New York City,
vacation memories, skip the trinket shop Hudson boasts an active Main Street district with
and opt instead for a keepsake you’ll cherish countless antique and art dealers to quench the
for years to come. Your summer vacation is appetite of any antique hunter. Styles and era
a perfect opportunity to treasure hunt for a vary in this upstate NY antiquing destination, but
special new antique (or two) for your home, be prepared to find a fair amount of mid-century
a distinct reminder of the people and places modern, Art Deco, as well as Art Nouveau pieces.
that made your summer vacation so special.
We recommend a stop at A. Sutter Antiques
Here are some of our favorite towns for refined 18th and 19th century European and
across the US for antiquing and tips Continental finds or check out Fern for more
for finding some of your own treasures rustic wares if you happen to be in town.
while you’re traveling this summer.

Bucks County, Pennsylvania Miami, Florida

Bucks County is a not-so-secret bastion of Two words: Art Deco. Venture past the iconic hotel
antiquing bliss. Located within driving distance of facades of South Beach and you’ll find the antique
Philadelphia and many points in New Jersey. There shops of Biscayne Bay offering hidden treasures

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 33

of the deco style. Modern in their aesthetic and Check out the Brimfield barn for an
oozing with the fabric of what makes Miami such a especially well curated collection of vintage
visually appealing city, you’ll be sure to find bakelite lamps and lighting. This year’s market
galore as well as modern deco fixtures and decor. runs three separate weekends: May 10-
15, July 12-17 and September 6-11.
We recommend making a stop at Stoneage
Antiques in Back Bay for an eccentric collection Galena, Illinois
of antique and vintage finds. or head to
Alhambra Antiques in Coral Gables for a more Looking for a quick day trip from Chicago? Look no
well-refined selection of furnishings and art. further than the quaint town of Galena, Illinois. With
a main street that boasts several specialty antique
Charleston, South Carolina shops you can find some very specific goods here.

Be sure to visit the King Street Antique District Check out All That’s Vintage for a rare selection
when spending salty summer days in this of antique games, toys and knick knacks. If antique
charming southern coastal town. Besides being jewelry is your thing then you’ll find several
absolutely gorgeous, Charleston is teeming with outposts, including Gustafsen & Grey, offering
history and it shows in a plethora of antique finds both antique and repurposed jewelry. Not sure
to be had from nearly every era of American what you’re in the market for, but want to browse?
history. Not short on genteel southern charm, Then head to the Tin Pan Alley antique mall for
rustic finds include chandeliers, sconces, large a wide selection from dozens of vendors.
ornate mirrors, elaborate furniture pieces (like
carved bed frames) and fireplace mantels. Los Angeles, California

For high-end antique finds check A mecca for mid-century modern lovers, Los
out Golden Associates Antiques for fine Angeles boasts an outstanding selection of Danish
furnishings and impressive chandeliers. modern, Hollywood Regency (obviously) and
dessert-inspired finds. It’s not uncommon to find
Wiscasset, Maine furniture in near mint condition here thanks in
part to a remarkably mild climate and little rain.
An antiquing mecca known far beyond this small
New England town, Wiscasset has been home From the vintage shops of Silverlake and Los
to some impressive antiquing finds that now Feliz to the sprawling Rose Bowl Flea (held the
adorn the Metropolitan Museum of Art and other second Sunday of every month), there are outlets
fine-art museums across the country. True to galore to explore. We love The Joneses for their
its colonial past, and steeped in Revolutionary impeccably curated selection of mid-century
war era history you’ll be sure to find a fair modern furnishings, as well as The Hunt vintage
amount of antique weaponry, books, and early for their especially nice selection of wood pieces.
folk art. The selection of China is also said to Check out Yelp’s full list of top vintage shops in LA.
be superb in this tiny New England hamlet.
Walnut, Iowa
Our favorite spots include Water Street
Antiques and Wiscasset Bay Gallery for Have a cross country road trip planned? Why not
a gorgeous selection of fine art. make a pitstop in the heartland at the Walnut
Antique show (June 17-19). You’ll find hundreds of
Brimfield, Massachusetts dealers offering up a wide variety of antique goods
and a dash of heartland hospitality. But plan ahead
This legendary New England antique show and get there early, this tiny town of roughly 700 gets
plays hosts to over 6,000 dealers at 6 shows overtaken by nearly 50,000 visitors for the annual
throughout the summer. What won’t you antiquing event. Not going to be in town then?
find here? With so many vendors, spread
out across a square mile, it’s hard to imagine Walnut hs been dubbed Antique City, so
there is anything one couldn’t find at this you’ll have plenty of shops to peruse anytime of
market. From antique lighting fixtures, year including The Barn Mall and Vintage Bulldog
collectibles, antique furniture to estate which specializes in antique electronics - think
jewelry, there is something for everyone. vintage fans and radios restored to working order.

34 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Tips for Any Town

Find Main Street: Yes, row of shops,
restaurants and locally-owned
businesses still exist in many of
America’s and often includes at least
one great antique shop to peruse.

Look for Flea Market Fliers: When you’re
at the grocery store stocking up on s’mores
supplies, bug spray and sunscreen keep
an eye out for local fliers that could clue
you in on some prime antiquing finds.
Don’t rule out street fairs and even the
county fair itself for antiquing goodness.

Keep an Eye Out For Estate Sales: You ESTATE SALE
not only get to search for keepsakes,
but you’ll also get a truly insider take on
how the residents make their home.

Ask the Locals: If you find a spot
that has some good pieces, don’t
be afraid to ask the purveyor where
else you might find similar goods.

Experience a Live Auction: There’s 35
nothing quite like the rush of a live
auction; the auctioneer’s singsong
voice, the thrill of placing your bid,
and the adrenaline rush of winning a
prized item. Can’t make it in person,
but still want to bid on the go?

FALL 2017 | GEMMA

the Price

Bloo
Is it re
for a “g

36 GEMMA | FALL 2017

of
ood
by Aryn Baker

Max Rodriguez knows exactly how he is going to propose
marriage to his long-term boyfriend, Michael Loper. He has
booked a romantic bed-and-­breakfast. He has found, using
Google Earth, a secluded garden where he plans to take Loper
for a sunset walk. The only thing that troubles him is the issue
of the ring. Rodriguez has heard about how diamonds fuel distant conflicts, about
the miserable conditions of the miners who wrest the stones from the earth,
and he worries. The 34-year-old slips on a gold signet-style ring in the 12th-floor
showroom of Vale Jewelry in New York City’s diamond district. “I don’t want a
symbol of our union to also be associated with chaos and controversy and pain,”
says Rodriguez.

it really worth paying To Mbuyi Mwanza, a 15-year-old who spends his days shoveling and sifting gravel
a “girl’s best friend”? in small artisanal mines in southwest Democratic Republic of Congo, diamonds
symbolize something much more immediate: the opportunity to eat. Mining work
is grueling, and he is plagued by backaches, but that is nothing compared with the
pain of seeing his family go hungry. His father is blind; his mother abandoned them
several years ago. It’s been three months since Mwanza last found a diamond, and
his debts—for food, for medicine for his father—are piling up. A large stone, maybe
a carat, could earn him $100, he says, enough to let him dream about going back
to school, after dropping out at 12 to go to the mines—the only work available in
his small village. He knows of at least a dozen other boys from his community who
have been forced to work in the mines to survive.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 37

Mwanza’s mine, a ruddy gash on the banks Given the ugly realities of the diamond Smillie, one of the early architects of the process
of a small stream whose waters will eventually business, it would be tempting to forgo buying a and an authority on conflict diamonds, estimates
reach the Congo River, is at the center of one of diamond altogether, or to choose, as Rodriguez that only 5% to 10% of the world’s diamonds are
the world’s most important sources of gem-­ eventually did, to purchase a synthetic traded illegally now compared with 25% before
quality diamonds. Yet the provincial capital, alternative. But Congolese mining officials say 2003, a huge boon for producing nations that
Tshikapa, betrays nothing of the wealth that diamonds are a vital source of ­income—if not the have a better chance at earning an income off
lies beneath the ground. None of the roads are only source—for an estimated 1 million small- their natural resources.
paved, not even the airport runway. Hundreds scale, or artisanal, miners in Congo who dig by
of miners die every year in tunnel collapses that hand for the crystals that will one day adorn the But Smillie and other critics argue that the
are seldom reported because they happen so engagement ring of a bride- or groom-to-be. “If Kimberley Process doesn’t go far enough.
often. Teachers at government schools demand people stop buying our diamonds, we won’t be Unfair labor practices and human-rights abuses
payment from students to supplement their able to eat,” says Mwanza. “We still won’t be able don’t disqualify diamonds under the protocol,
meager salaries. Many parents choose to send to go to school. How does that help us?” while the definition of conflict is so narrow as
their teenagers to the mines instead. “We do to exclude many instances of what consumers
this work so we can find something that will let In an age of supply-chain transparency, would, using common sense, think of as a
us eat,” says Mwanza. “When I find a stone, I eat. when a $4 latte can come with an explanation conflict diamond. Conflict diamonds under the
There is no money left for school.” of where the coffee was grown and how, even Kimberley Process are defined as gemstones
luxury goods like diamonds are under pressure sold to fund a rebel movement attempting to
Mwanza and Rodriguez are on opposite to prove that they can be sustainable. The overthrow the state—and only that. So when,
ends of an $81.4 billion-a-year industry that links Kimberley Process has gone some of the way, in 2008, the Zimbabwean army seized a major
the mines of Africa, home to 65% of the world’s yet a truly fair-trade system would not only ban diamond deposit in eastern Zimbabwe and
diamonds, with the sparkling salesrooms of diamonds mined in conflict areas but also allow massacred more than 200 miners, it was not
high-end jewelry retailers around the world. conscientious consumers to buy diamonds that considered a breach of the Kimberley Process
It is an industry that was supposed to be could improve the working and living conditions protocols. “Thousands had been killed, raped,
cleaned up, after the turn-of-the-millennium­ of artisanal miners like Mwanza. But the hard injured and enslaved in Zimbabwe, and the
notoriety surrounding so-called blood or conflict truth is that years after the term blood diamond Kimberley Process had no way to call those

Instead of blessings, our diamonds bring us nothing but misfortune.

d­ iamonds—precious stones mined in African war breached the public consciousness, there is conflict diamonds because there were no
zones, often by forced labor, and used to fund almost no way to know for sure that you’re rebels,” says Smillie.
armed rebel movements. In 2003 the diamond buying a diamond without blood on it.
industry established the Kimberley Process, an Even in some cases where the Kimberley
international certification system designed to The Kimberley Process grew out of a 2000 Process has implemented a ban—as in the
reassure consumers that the diamonds they meeting in Kimberley, South Africa, when the Central African Republic (CAR), where diamonds
bought were conflict-­free. But more than 10 world’s major diamond producers and buyers have helped fund a genocidal war that has killed
years later, while the process did reduce the met to address growing concerns, and the thousands since 2013—conflict­diamonds are
number of conflict diamonds on the market, it threat of a consumer boycott, over the sale of still leaking out. A U.N. panel of experts estimates
remains riddled with loopholes, unable to stop rough, uncut diamonds to fund the brutal civil that 140,000 carats of d­ iamonds—with a retail
many diamonds mined in war zones or under wars of Angola and Sierra Leone—­inspiration value of $24 ­million—have been smuggled
other egregious circumstances from being sold for the 2006 film Blood Diamond. By 2003, 52 out of the country since it was suspended in
in international markets. And as Mwanza’s life governments, as well as international advocacy May 2013. The Enough Project, an organization
demonstrates, diamond mining even outside groups, had ratified the scheme, establishing dedicated to ending resource-based violence
a conflict area can be brutal work, performed a system of diamond “passports” issued from in Africa, estimated in a June report that armed
by low-paid, sometimes school-age miners. the country of origin that would accompany groups raise $3.87 million to $5.8 million a
“It’s a scandal,” says Zacharie Mamba, head of every shipment of rough diamonds around year through the taxation of and illicit trade in
Tshikapa’s mining division. “We have so much the world. Countries that could not prove that diamonds.
wealth, yet we stay so poor. I can understand their diamonds were conflict-free could be
why you Americans say you don’t want to suspended from the international diamond Many of those diamonds are likely being
buy our diamonds. Instead of blessings, our trade. smuggled across the border to Congo, where
diamonds bring us nothing but misfortune.” they are given Kimberley Process certificates
The Kimberley Process was hailed as a major before being traded internationally. “The Central
step toward ending diamond-­fueled conflict. Ian African Republic is a classic case of blood

38 GEMMA | FALL 2017

a symbol of

chaos and pain,

yet an

OPPURTUNITY

for

SURVIVAL

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 39

may bring
problems,

diamonds, exactly what the Kimberley Process Tiffany & Co., Signet and De Beers’
was intended to address,” says Michael Gibb Forevermark brand have instituted strict
of Global Witness, a U.K.-based NGO that sourcing policies for their diamonds that address
advocates for the responsible use of natural many of these concerns. In New York next
resources. “The fact that CAR diamonds are March, jewelry-­industry executives from around
making it to international markets is a clear the world will meet for an unprecedented
demonstration that the Kimberley Process on its 2½-day conference on responsible sourcing
own is not going to be able to deal with this kind in an attempt to hammer out an industry-wide
of problem.” (Representatives of the Congolese process as transparent as the one that brings
body in charge of issuing Kimberley Process fair-trade coffee to Starbucks. “Why shouldn’t
certificates deny that CAR diamonds are being we be able to trace a much more valuable and
laundered through Congo, but mining-­ministry more emotionally laden product?” asks Beth
officials admit that it is all but impossible to Gerstein, who in 2005 co-founded Brilliant Earth,
police the country’s 1,085-mile [1,746 km] border one of the first jewelry companies to make
with the Central African Republic.) responsible sourcing a selling point.

Many countries, industry leaders and Ava Bai, one of the twin-sibling designers
international ­organizations—including the behind New York’s Vale Jewelry, believes the
U.S.-based World Diamond Council, the major desire of millennials to shop according to their
industry trade group—have lobbied to expand ethics has also helped pushed the industry to
the Kimberley Process definition of conflict embrace sustainability. Fine-jewelry­sales in
diamonds to include issues of environmental the U.S.—the world’s biggest retail diamond
impact, human-rights abuses and fair labor market—have stagnated, growing only 1.9% from
practices. They’ve made little progress. (One 2004 to 2013, even as other luxury items, like fine
reason: any changes to the criteria must be wines and electronics, have gone up by more
made by consensus. Many countries, including than 10%. “Millennial consumers are looking
Russia, China and Zimbabwe, have resisted for more than the 4Cs [the classic Cut, Carat,
inserting human-rights language that might Clarity and Color],” says Linnette Gould, head of
threaten national interests.) They are instead media relations for De Beers, which launched its
taking it upon themselves to ensure the integrity Forevermark diamond brand in the U.S. in 2011
of the diamond supply chain and assuage with a commitment to responsible sourcing.
consumer doubts. “They want a guarantee that it is ethical. They

40 GEMMA | FALL 2017

BUT rejecting them
outright would

bring even more

want to know about environmental impact. They Gemological Institute of America. Laundering a the sun sets around 6 p.m. If they are lucky they
want to know about labor practices. They want conflict diamond from a place like the Central will find two or three such slivers in a day.
to know that the communities have benefited African Republic is as simple as cutting it. “That
from the diamonds they are mining.” For its is why traceability from the mines is critical,” says The day’s findings will be collected and
part, Vale deals directly with one family that Wang. sold to an itinerant buyer. He in turn will sell
does the buying, cutting and polishing. Their his purchases up the chain to one of the more
buyer sources diamonds from South African But the idea of complete chain of custody established agents, who will collate several
and Indian mines—generally considered more falls apart in Congo’s tens of thousands of alluvial packets before making the journey to Tshikapa,
­sustainable—and the Bai twins plan to visit the mines. Some 18 miles (29 km) from Mwanza’s where the streets are lined with small shop
South African mine next year. creek-side site, more than 100 men labor at the fronts adorned with hand-painted images of
much larger Kangambala mine. They have spent diamonds and dollar signs.
That kind of supply-chain management four months shoveling away 50 feet (15 m) of
takes significant effort and trust, because even rock and dirt to expose the diamond-­bearing Two days later a young diamond merchant
experts can’t tell the origins of a diamond gravel below. None are paid for the labor; they ducks into Funji Kindamba’s storefront office. He
simply by looking at it. An experienced work only for the opportunity to find diamonds. spills a fistful of greasy yellow and gray stones
onto Kindamba’s desk. With the help of large

They are instead taking it upon themselves to ensure the integrity of

the diamond supply chain and assuage consumer doubts.

gemologist might be able to tell the difference Knee-deep in water pumped from the nearby tweezers, Kindamba pushes the diamonds into
between a handful of rough diamonds from river, three men sluice pans of gravel through piles with a practiced flick of his wrist, separating
an industrial South African pit mine and those small sieves. One gives an excited yelp, fishes out the large ones from the tiny diamonds used
from a Congolese alluvial mine like the one out a sliver of diamond the size of a peppercorn in pavé work, where small stones are set very
where Mwanza labors. But those differences and hands it to an overseer sitting in the shade closely together. Eventually they come to an
disappear as a diamond moves up the value of a striped umbrella. The overseer folds it into agreement on a price: $200. Kindamba notes
chain. “Despite the concern from the public and a piece of paper torn from a cigarette pack and down the seller’s name, the price he paid and
within the industry about these so-called illicit puts it in his pocket. It’s worth maybe $10, he the total carat weight for the whole packet—4.5—
diamonds and conflict diamonds, there is no says. That find will be split between the owner in a small notebook. Kindamba has no idea
scientific or technical way to tell where diamonds of the mine site, who gets 70% of the value, and where the diamonds come from. “There are
came from once they are cut,” says Wuyi Wang, the 10 members of the sluicing team, who have thousands of mines,” he says with a laugh. “It’s
director of research and development at the been working since 9 a.m. and will continue until impossible to keep track.”

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 41

A boycott

will NOT change

diamonds of
misforture

into

diamonds of
joy

overnight.

42 GEMMA | FALL 2017

Diamond-industry experts like to say a Albert Kiungu Muepu, the provincial head of so that all these children have an opportunity to
packet of diamonds will change hands on a Congolese NGO that, with the help of the be educated, so they won’t be poor, so they can
average eight to 10 times between the country Ottawa-based Diamond Development Initiative do something with their lives.”
of export and its final destination. The reality (DDI), is organizing miners into collectives—
is that diamonds from the mines outside the first step toward e­ stablishing fair-trade So how can a concerned consumer buy a
Tshikapa are likely to change hands eight to diamonds. A boycott “will not change diamonds diamond in a way that actually helps people like
10 times before they even leave the province of misfortune into diamonds of joy overnight,” he Mwanza and Ngalamume? Asking questions
for the capital, Kinshasa, the only place where says. “If those who want to do good stop buying can go a long way. Responsible jewelers should
Congolese diamonds can be certified for export. our diamonds, rest assured, Congo still loses. know every step in the path from mine to
­Kindamba’s diamonds will be sold on at least The way to better conditions in Congo is to market. Kimberley Process certification alone
twice before they reach a licensed buyer where help us better our system so that the resources isn’t enough—as of now the system is too
a representative from the Ministry of Mines can generated by Congo can profit Congo.” limited. Diamonds that come from Zimbabwe
assess the value and furnish the official form and Angola are particularly problematic.
required to obtain the Kimberley certificate. On Organizing miners into cooperatives is a key Watchdog groups have documented human-
the line noting the location of the mine, it will step in the process, much as it was for turning rights abuses in and around mines in those
simply say Tshikapa. exploited coffee farmers into partners in fair countries, though exports from both nations are
trade. Not only can cooperatives pool resources allowed under the Kimberley Process—another
Given the near impossibility of tracing for better mining equipment, they also can loophole in the system.
diamonds to their source in countries like share knowledge and set prices according
Congo, where artisanal mining predominates, to global markets, rather than on the basis of While buying diamonds from a conflict-
jewelers who want a more transparent supply what local buyers are offering. But unless the free country like Canada can buy you a
chain usually buy from mining companies like Kimberley Process, or some other internationally clean conscience, a better bet may be
De Beers or Rio Tinto, which control all aspects agreed-upon certification system, can assuage African countries like Botswana and Namibia.
of the process from exploration to cutting and growing concerns about human-rights abuses, Governments in both countries have a solid
selling. Others source only from countries with record of working with both the industrial mining
good human-rights records. Brilliant Earth,
for example, buys most of its diamonds from Responsible jewelers should know every step in the path
Canada. “The unfortunate reality is that there
are so many problems that have to be solved from mine to market.
before we can offer fair-trade diamonds from
the Congo,” says Gerstein. environmental impacts and fair labor practices industry and artisanal miners to enforce strong
around mining—while ensuring that tainted labor and environmental standards. Sierra
It’s a delicate balancing act. On the one diamonds stay out of the marketplace—­ Leone—the setting for much of the film Blood
hand, companies need to understand enough conscientious consumers may stay away. Diamond—has improved as well, though the
about their supply chains to assure customers country’s recent Ebola outbreak set back some
that child-labor issues, environmental Ironically, it is the company that has been of that progress.
degradation or human-rights abuses do not the most outspoken about the evils of diamond
taint their jewelry. But while the easiest way to mining that is doing the most to help Congolese Consumers who care can trace the fish on
do that is by simply boycotting certain countries, miners right now. Brilliant Earth, with the help of their plate back to the patch of sea it was taken
abstaining won’t make those problems DDI and Muepu’s NGO, has funded a school to from. They can choose fair-trade apparel that
disappear. In a desperately poor country like get c­ hildren like 12-year-old Kalala Ngalamume benefits the cotton farmers and seamstresses
Congo—where over half the population lives out of the mines and back into class. When who produced their clothing. But the lineage of
on less than $1.25 a day—things could actually his father died of malaria last year, it looked as one of the most valuable products that many
get worse. “Artisanal miners in Africa are actually if Ngalamume would be joining his neighbor consumers will ever buy in their lifetime remains
becoming victims of our desire to do right by Mwanza in the mines. Instead he was picked shrouded in uncertainty, and too often the people
diamond miners,” says Bai. as one of the first 20 students in the Brilliant who do the arduous work of digging those
Mobile School pilot program, based on his age, precious stones from the earth are the ones who
According to Congo’s Ministry of Mines, his previous schooling and the fact that he was benefit the least. The only way that the blood will
nearly 10% of the population relies on income at risk of going to work in the mines. “Without finally be washed away from conflict diamonds
from diamonds, and the country produces school, I know I would have to do whatever it is if there is a true fair-trade-certification process
about a fifth of the world’s industrial diamonds. took to survive, even go looking for diamonds,” that allows conscientious consumers to buy
Diamonds may bring problems, but rejecting he says. But hundreds more children in his Congo’s artisanal diamonds with peace of mind—
them outright would bring even more, says village are still at risk. “We need to do something just as they might a cup of coffee.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 43

Every Gem
Has Its
Own Story

The Chinese Soul in Contemporary Jewelry Design

by Andrew Lucas, Merilee Chapin, Moqing Lin, and Xiaodan Jia

44 GEMMA | FALL 2017

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 45

When the same gems and precious metals are departments to serve an expanding market. award-winning pieces from international design and
used in jewelry, design is the element that Foremost among these are Tsinghua University, gem-cutting competitions feature these elements.
ultimately distinguishes one piece from another. China University of Geosciences, and China Central While several Western designers have embraced
Real success is measured not only by the value of Academy of Fine Art. Jewelry competitions have traditional Chinese symbols, they sometimes do
its materials but also by the character and quality been created to foster the development of young not apply or combine them properly, making them
of the design and craftsmanship. Once considered talent. Many companies have invited designers less meaningful. According to Hong Kong jewelry
a weak point of China’s gem and jewelry industry, from Hong Kong and overseas to bring their skills designer Dickson Yewn, “Jewelry is a new way to
design has seen tremendous progress over the to China and to train local. At the same time, interpret a culture that has been suppressed for
last decade. Benefiting from the availability of Chinese artists have begun going overseas to decades.” He believes China is a fundamental
more gem materials and the power of a rapidly the UK, the United States, Italy, and Germany resource for jewelry design and that after prolonged
growing consumer market, Chinese designers to study Western jewelry manufacturing. social upheaval, it is time to recapture its glory.
now have the freedom to develop their design
concepts and craftsmanship skills. Designers from It is widely believed by domestic consumers Trained as a painter, Yewn has always
mainland China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan share the that Chinese jewelry designs should capture the been interested in Chinese culture and history.
bond of cultural identity and have found ways to “Chinese soul.” This concept is a reflection of Having spent years in the West, he has a deep
create jewelry that expresses the Chinese soul. the native culture, “a collective programming of appreciation for its culture but prefers to create
the mind” that distinguishes a group of people. jewelry that is distinctly Chinese rather than mixing
From dangling hair ornaments to exquisite Rather than being genetically transferred, cultural cultural designs. He is also engaged in reviving
jade pendants and splendid crowns, jewelry has inheritances can only be acquired by native traditional Chinese jewelry craftsmanship.
always served as personal adornment for the experience. For thousands of years, the core
Chinese people, from ordinary citizens to royal values of Chinese culture have not fundamentally While many designers focus on generating new
families. Throughout the civilization’s 5,000- changed. The process begins at birth and continues concepts, Yewn digs deeply into native traditions
year history, masters of jewelry design and throughout a person’s life, as one gains a deeply and fuses them with contemporary luxury. His
manufacturing have emerged continually, applying rooted understanding of Chinese culture, including common themes include lattice patterns, paper
innovations while developing their skills. its distinct traditions, philosophy, religions, and cutting, Manchurian motifs, and peonies—the
preferred materials. This understanding allows Chinese national flower. One of his collections,
China’s Cultural Revolution (1966–1976) the native-born designer to easily and naturally “Lock of Good Wishes,” is based on such tradition.
followed more than a century of social and economic incorporate traditional elements into jewelry for The earliest known lock in China was uncovered
upheaval that hindered almost every aspect domestic audiences and accurately interpret their from a tomb dated 3000 BC. While the basic
of national growth. During this period, jewelry meanings. The spiritual message carried by a piece function of the lock has not changed, the style,
came to represent capitalism, and wearing it was of jewelry can be reflected by combining some materials, and craftsmanship have continued to
considered offensive. Designers and craftsmen Chinese design elements, but this is not always the evolve, and its meaning as a decorative motif has
avoided persecution by simply stopping their work. case. Simply using Chinese elements is not enough: broadened. As a symbol of security, a lock also
represents good health and longevity in Chinese
In the last decades of the 20th century, the

As a symbol of security, a lock also represents good

health and longevity in Chinese culture.

Chinese gem and jewelry industry experienced The designers must think in the Chinese way. culture. Newborns are given precious metal lock
a dramatic upswing. By the end of the 1990s, In 2010 China overtook Japan to become the pendants to “lock” health and happiness into their
there were about 20,000 jewelry businesses and lives forever. This type of pendant is still one of the
some three million people involved in the trade. world’s second-largest economy, after the United most popular jewelry gifts for babies in China.
The country’s jewelry markets became saturated States. China is now also the second-largest
with similar products, many of low quality. jewelry market and is projected to become the Yewn’s jadeite and diamond “Wish Fulfilling”
largest by 2020). To cater to the rapidly expanding ring features a traditional lattice window shank.
This lack of innovation caused a sense of market for luxury goods, the Chinese began Lattice windows were a common sight in ancient
stagnation, which led some industry pioneers to developing their own innovative jewelry designs. Chinese gardens, their delicate patterns inviting
find a new approach. Professional training and the viewer to look through and enjoy the beautiful
degree programs in jewelry design have been CHINESE DESIGN ELEMENTS scenery within. They originated in southern China,
offered since the early 1990s. Over the last 10 years, home of the Classical Gardens of Suzhou. These
many leading universities and art academies have One recent jewelry trend is to incorporate Chinese private gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
formed their own jewelry design and manufacturing elements such as dragons, the phoenix, bamboo, date from the 11th through 19th centuries. Their
and Chinese characters into their products. Many

46 GEMMA | FALL 2017

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 47

48 GEMMA | FALL 2017

lattice windows are among the most important Master Bai’s design philosophy is that a
elements, framing the view with a mysterious veil. piece must succeed on its own in the market. To
Yewn borrowed this concept from the garden reach this goal, she considers both the quality
masters, intending the ring to create a connection of the craftsmanship and the contemporary
between the wearer’s mind and the outside world. composition. She says the first filigree inlay
jewelry suite she designed and made for Zhaoyi
TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP was purchased—unexpectedly—by a young
couple. For years, China’s younger generation,
China has a long history of using gold and silver especially in large cities, considered high-purity
in jewelry design, and gold still dominates the gold jewelry somewhat out of fashion. This was
domestic jewelry market. Imperial artisans were largely due to the lack of creative design. Today,
once able to spend considerable time on a piece young consumers prefer innovative gold jewelry.
of jewelry commissioned by the emperor. Today
very few can afford to practice time-consuming DEPICTIONS OF CHINESE
traditional craftsmanship. Yet the rise of mainland PHILOSOPHIES
China’s luxury market is changing this by
encouraging the adoption of classic techniques. Chinese jewelry designers benefit from many sources
of inspiration. Poems, fairy tales, and paintings,
One of these is filigree inlay art. This combines for instance, are full of generations-old Chinese
two crafting skills: The first is filigree, the use philosophies. Yue-Yo Wang, a jewelry designer
of gold or silver threads of different weights. from Taiwan, has devoted herself to traditional
The second is inlay work, which involves setting Chinese jewelry design using such themes. She
stones and carving or filing precious metals combines Chinese knotting art with modern design
around them. The artist responsible for the and manufacturing techniques to create her own
revival of this technique is Master Jingyi Bai. pieces, giving each of them its own story.

Master Bai’s interest in both painting and pattern In China, knotting art can be traced back to
serves as the basis for her design life. As an art around 1600 BC. Today the younger generation is
school student of precious metals, she gained some embracing this ancient art with renewed interest.
knowledge and skills, but she felt they were not Wang began with knotted teapot covers and then
enough to make her a successful master goldsmith

The designers must think in the Chinese way.

and designer. Over the next 40 years, she perfected developed her product lines to include clothing
her technique in a filigree inlay art factory, where she and decorations. She eventually realized that
was trained by older-generation master goldsmiths. knotting art could be combined with modern jewelry
In 2008, filigree inlay art was designated the manufacturing methods, and established Wang Yue-
Intangible Cultural Heritage of China, and Master Yo Creative Jewelry Design in Taipei about 20 years
Bai was named the official Representative Inheritor. ago. The flagship store opened in 2007 in Beijing.
Master Bai’s participation in promoting filigree inlay Since then her company has greatly expanded its
art accelerated in 2009, after she began designing number of retail outlets. In 2012 Wang formed the
for well-known Chinese jade jewelry brand, Zhaoyi. Taiwan Creative Jewelry Design Association, hoping
These two events took her career to new heights. to attract designers focused on artistry and a desire
to spread Chinese culture to the rest of the world.
Master Bai has created many replicas of
historic filigree inlay art pieces. Today, she works Wang’s designs feature traditional Chinese
full-time in her studio as Zhaoyi’s chief designer of symbols with elements of Chinese knotting art, such
filigree inlay products. Her jewelry is thoroughly as long tassels and thread patterns. Gem materials
Chinese, from the materials to the themes often seen in her designs include opal, coral, jadeite,
and craftsmanship. Her filigree inlay jewelry tourmaline, and chalcedon. These gems are time-
set “Royal Classic: Ripping Cloud” won Best honored favorites of the Chinese people. Wang
Craft Inheritance Award at the second National believes that every gem has its own spirit, and she is
Jewelry Processing Craft Competition in 2011. inspired to find it and express it through her jewelry.

FALL 2017 | GEMMA 49

Wang’s designs, with their balanced and
harmonious color and materials, reflect the
philosophy laid out circa 500 BC in Zhong Yong,
translated as The Doctrine of the Mean. Zhong
symbolizes impartiality, while Yong represents
permanence. This classic text was one of the first
books composed by the disciples of Confucius and
has been a central tenet of the philosophy ever since.
Intellectuals practiced this philosophy in their daily
lives, while the ruling class applied it to management
strategy. After generations, Confucian philosophy
became the barcode of Chinese culture and remains
so to this day. This is reflected in art, symmetry
patterns, and motifs. The aesthetic standard the
Chinese people hold is also based on this philosophy.
Chinese painting, calligraphy, and carving all reflect
this standard, which is exemplified by Wang’s jewelry.

Shirley Zhang, one of China’s leading designers,
has been in the industry since the 1990s. She has
created her own patented jewelry-making methods
while importing Western techniques. Zhang’s
small factory, Meiher Jewelry Styling Research
Center, performs every manufacturing step from
design to finished product. This allows Zhang to
test and develop new manufacturing processes.

These efforts proved worthwhile when Zhang’s
masterpiece, “Dancing on the Flowers”, won a
special award at the 2012 National Gems & Jewelry
Technology Administrative Centre jewelry design
and manufacturing skills competition. The suite,
accented with bee and flower designs, includes
a shoulder drape, a cuff bracelet, and a pair of
earrings. In Chinese culture, bees symbolize the
essential character trait of diligence. This design
competition was a salute to the accomplishments
of the Chinese gem and jewelry industry over the
previous 20 years, and Zhang used the bees to
represent the industry’s diligent work. A variety of
gemstones and setting techniques were applied.
Of these items, the shoulder drape is the most
breathtaking. It features patented “dumbbell” buckle
links between the honeycomb cells, allowing the
piece to move freely and drape perfectly on the
wearer’s shoulder, giving the feeling of silk fabric
rather than gold. The wearer can also reshape
the piece by disconnecting and reattaching the
links in various combinations for versatility.

Another patented technique applied to this
shoulder drape is the “honeycomb” setting of the
colored stones in the flowers, allowing more light

50 GEMMA | FALL 2017


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