The Great Outdoors-Mar24

CONTESTED HISTORIES e ‘Dempster’ is one of Canada’s great roads, but the naming of it reects some of the issues prevalent in modern Canada, and perhaps for us closer to home too. e ‘Mountie’ Corporal William Dempster of the RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) gave his name to this wilderness highway, but many locals are pushing for another. Dempster was certainly legendary, searching for the men of ‘the Lost Patrol’. He found them frozen to death near Fort McPherson aer a winter’s journey across this unforgiving land. Famously, the Lost Patrol had dismissed their First Nation guide and then paid the ultimate price, mistakenly condent in their own abilities. Yukon locals oen prefer a tribute to the Hwëch’in chief who guided the highway builders. To many, it’s simply the ‘John Henry’. My journey on foot owes something to the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in, too. First Nations people have many rights over their ancestral lands, and a horse trail cut by generations of them who’ve hunted this land sustainably is a joy to walk on aer several hours of bushwhacking. A very comfy rst camp sets me up well for the next day, as I drop down into a valley to meet the headwaters of the Blackstone River. My third day sees a switch in journey direction, heading south along the Blackstone before climbing higher into the hills. e horse trail holds out for some of day three, but it melts into dense bush as the river thins and I head towards the heart of the Cloudy Range. I battle through thick alder, and my progress slows to a crawl. Even as the alders give way to spongy tundra, there is no respite – this new terrain only oers another form of grindingly slow progress. Tombstone has some of the most dynamic weather I have ever encountered, and this adds to the all-pervading grittiness of the walk. e rst days are warm and sunny but by day four it is raining heavily, which gives way to snow as I climb up into some very moody mountains. ENVIRONMENT OF EXTREMES e crux of my route comes at Synetite Pass. Above Synetite Lake, I pick a trail over talus in light snow before dropping over the pass for my rst glimpse of Tombstone River. I had been warned of recent grizzly activity on this section and, sure enough, several huge bear scats dot the rocks as I pick my way down. I hurry to pitch camp as the weather worsens. [left] Tombstone River [below] Camp 3 in pleasant evening sun YUKON April 2024 The Great Outdoors 53

Intense snow showers rattle the tent and I can only hope that the bears will be similarly hunkered down and not interested in joining me for dinner. e following morning, I’m chased o the heights by further snow showers that turn to rain as I descend. e terrain doesn’t relent. One side of the Tombstone River is thick with alder, and the other littered with elds of talus. It takes a day and a half to traverse. As I pitch camp on day seven, I’m utterly exhausted. e environment is exhilarating and the landscape breathtaking, and a very welcome change in pace the following day allows me to come up for air and really appreciate it. A few kilometres short of the rst managed site at Talus Lake, I pick up a well-dened path that heralds the start (or nish) of the only dened trail in the park. I’m now mandated to keep to the trail network for the 40 or so kilometres le of the hike, but I’m not complaining. My pace quickens, and I move freely and easily for the rst time in a week. TARNSIDE REST & RESPITE Talus Lake campsite swings into view, and I get my rst sight of the managed camps, well-designed to accommodate small groups of people in a fragile landscape. At all three sites there are tent pads to pitch on (to minimise impact on the ground), compost toilets, a cooking shelter and bearproof lockers. I meet the rst people I’ve seen for days, and before long we are swapping stories. I thought I might nd the presence of others in this mountain paradise jarring aer so long on my own, but it was quite the opposite. Later, I settle in at Divide Lake and enjoy easy conversation with others crammed into the cooking shelters. ere are hikers from all corners of the Canada and the US, and all of them have long harboured a dream to hike here. Camping in company is generally safer too, and I sleep a little more soundly that night. Aer a rest day and second night at Divide, I head out of the park, via a nal camp at Grizzly Lake. Tombstone’s weather is the main story once again, and a prolonged period of heavy rain washes me out of the mountains to my pickup at Grizzly trailhead. I am weary aer a long walk in an incredible and incredibly demanding landscape, and there’s much to reect on in the comfort of Dawson later that night. Tombstone is no walk in the park, but it’s worth every step. [above] Divide Lake in morning sun [below] Heading towards Synetite Pass “Tombstone is no walk in the park, but it’s worth every step” YUKON 54 The Great Outdoors April 2024

Try your luck in Tombstone ry your luck in Tombstone GETTING THERE Tombstone is a relatively accessible corner of the Yukon. Most start from Dawson City, reached either by plane, boat or road from the Yukon’s territorial capital of Whitehorse (which itself is accessible from Vancouver, Calgary or Edmonton) or from Alaska. You’ll then need to get yourself to the Tombstone Interpretive Centre, which is the information centre in Tombstone Territorial Park. Drive or book a ride along the Dempster Highway (which starts 40km south of Dawson City on the Klondike Highway and ends in Inuvik, Northwest Territories). Helicopter dropoff is also an option at various landing zones in the park, but you’ll still need to ‘check in’. HIKING ‘GRIZZLY, DIVIDE & TALUS’ The most popular backpacking route in Tombstone is a 48km return hike over Grizzly Lake to Divide Lake, and then onward to Talus Lake. Three GD\VDUHQHFHVVDU\WRFRPSOHWHWKHKLNHWKURXJKYHU\GLIĆFXOWWHUUDLQ )URPWKHWUDLOKHDGWKHĆUVWGD\RIKLNLQJVWDUWVZLWKDVWHHSNPKLNH to Grizzly Lake campground. The next day is only 6km from Grizzly Lake to Divide Lake but it’s over the high Glissade Pass. The last section of the trail –the 6km from Divide Lake to Talus Lake – is fairly easy. On this section you will enjoy a view of the iconic Tombstone Mountain as you near Talus. From camp at Talus Lake, you can explore the base of Mount Monolith or the surrounding valleys in day trips. Booking the three campsites well in advance is a must. For booking and further details, see tinyurl.com/BookingYukon BEFORE YOU START All hikes must start with a ‘check in’ at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre. Here, your booking for the backcountry sites of ‘Talus’, ‘Grizzly’ RUç'LYLGHèZLOOEHFRQĆUPHGDQG\RXèOOEHLVVXHGZLWKDWHQWWDJIRUWKH rangers to check. If you’re heading into the backcountry a separate permit will be issued, after your route is recorded. Dawson has some opportunity for last-minute shopping, including a VPDOORXWGRRUVKRS7KHUHDUHDQXPEHURIWRXUFRPSDQLHVRUçRXWĆWWHUVè who can arrange transport to get you into the park and can rent you bear kit including barrels and spray. Mark used ‘Klondike Experience’. Yukon Parks has high-quality planning resources to support your trip. Before booking your adventure, check out their videos on YouTube these will give you the lowdown on the park and camping in bear country. MOVING & CAMPING IN BEAR COUNTRY Tombstone is home to a number of grizzly bears, and you need to respect that. When moving, always make your presence known by calling out frequently, and pick routes that afford visibility. If you encounter a bear, make sure you know how to handle the situation. Be observant of all available advice to prevent a faceto-face encounter, and hire bear spray (pepper spray) as a last line of defence. Camp safely, keeping all food stored in bear barrels and never eat in your tent (Mark took two shelters – a sleeping tent and a ‘mess tent’). Hire the necessary equipment in Dawson and be prepared to show it at ‘check in’. MAPS Maps are available both in Dawson and at the Tombstone ,QWHUSUHWLYH&HQWUH7KHRIĆFLDO park hiking map, which is durable, clear and easy to use , is highly recommended. Online resources (such as Topo Canada) can help with planning. Map © Government of Yukon April 2024 The Great Outdoors 55

PHOTOGRAPHY (UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED) JAMES RODDIE the 7 wonders of the mountains The aurora borealis, aka the Northern Lights HOW TO SPOT From Brocken spectres to the aurora borealis, some truly awe-inspiring phenomena can be witnessed in the UK’s hills. Being in the right place at the right time is key, says James Roddie, who uses his hard-won knowledge of how they form to increase the chances of an encounter 58 The Great Outdoors April 2024

SKILLS Brocken spectre in the Mamores 1 CLOUD INVERSIONS Most of the time, air temperature decreases with altitude. However, during periods of high atmospheric pressure (ie calm, settled weather) that pattern is often reversed. With clear skies, air cools rapidly as it sinks into the valleys, and becomes trapped beneath a layer of warmer air at higher DOWLWXGHV,IWKHUHLVDVXIĆFLHQWGHJUHH of moisture in the air, a cloud layer may develop as the air cools and condenses – forming a cloud inversion. To increase your chances of seeing a cloud inversion, head to summits overlooking deep glens and/or large bodies of water. Sheltered areas surrounded by hills are ideal locations for inversions to form. Wild camping can help your chances too, as some inversions only last for a few hours around dawn. Heading to the highest summits is a good bet, as sometimes only the tallest peaks poke above the cloud. 2 AURORA BOREALIS There are few experiences quite as magical as seeing ‘Lady Aurora’ dance. This remarkable light show is created by charged particles released by the sun colliding with oxygen and nitrogen in the Earth’s atmosphere. As this occurs, the energy released causes a colourful halo in the areas around the Poles. The aurora is visible from the UK more often than many people realise, but you have to be in the right place at the right time. Thankfully a variety of apps (such as AuroraWatch) will alert you when an aurora is likely. Autumn and winter when the nights are darkest offer your best chance. The further north you are, the brighter the display will be. Head as far away from light pollution as possible and look at the lunar calendar – a full moon can make it hard to see the aurora. Pick a night with clear skies and be prepared to wait for a few hours, so wrap up warm and WDNHDćDVN 3 ALPENGLOW Make your way up to a high summit for GDZQRUGXVNDQG\RXPLJKWĆQG\RXUVHOI and your surroundings bathed in an incredible red or pink light. This is known as ‘alpenglow’. It can be caused by one of two processes – either by sunlight being UHćHFWHGRUGLIIUDFWHGE\WKHDWPRVSKHUH when the sun is just beneath the horizon, or by the direct light of the rising or setting sun illuminating the ground. Alpenglow usually appears at its most intense when the light is falling on snow, so days of clear skies in winter provide the best opportunities. Alpenglow never lasts long, but seeing it is always a memorable experience. 4 BROCKEN SPECTRES A ‘Brocken spectre’ is an eerie natural phenomenon. If you stand on a ridge or VXPPLWVXUURXQGHGE\FORXG\RXPD\ĆQG your own shadow looking back at you from the mist, encircled by a small rainbow. In some conditions the shadow can appear KXJHJLYLQJWKHLPSUHVVLRQRIDJLDQWĆJXUH imprinted on the cloud. Brocken spectres only form when you are positioned directly between the sun and an area of cloud of fog. Early or late on bright and breezy days with cloud rapidly moving around the summits tend to create ideal conditions. If the sun is high in the Cloud inversion in Knoydart April 2024 The Great Outdoors 59 Photo credit: Alex Roddie

Alpenglow on Ben Nevis Rainbow over Stac Pollaidh 60 The Great Outdoors April 2024

SKILLS sky, you will need to position yourself above cloud for the spectre to form. 5 RAINBOWS AND FOGBOWS Walking in the rain can be miserable, but a wet day can be brightened by the appearance of a rainbow – a common but still delightful sight in our changeable climate. Rainbows are formed when sunlight is refracted (bent) through water GURSOHWVLQWKHDLU,WLVWKHQUHćHFWHG back from the raindrops towards our eyes and refracted again at different angles. Sunlight is made of multiple different wavelengths, which move at slightly different speeds when travelling through a raindrop. This produces the spectrum of colours we see. A rainbow will only form when the sun is lower than 42° in the sky, and when the sun is shining onto rain or drizzle. Breezy days with a mix of sunshine and showers are ideal. Taking note of the wind direction can help predict rainbows. For example, if it is day of showers coming in on a westerly wind, rainbows may be more likely in the morning when the sun is in the east. Although they are formed by very similar processes, fogbows are a rarer phenomenon. Fogbows take the form of a colourless arc, projected against fog or mist rather than rain. As the water droplets in fog are far smaller than in rain, the light undergoes diffraction as it enters the GURSOHWV7KHEHDPRIOLJKWWKDWLVUHćHFWHG back from the water droplet is broader than in a rainbow, and this causes the lack of colour. To see a fogbow, the sun will need to be shining directly onto a bank of fog or mist, ZLWKRXWDQ\UDLQIDOOLQJ3HULRGVRIĆQHVWLOO weather after a wet spell can produce good conditions, as this is often when mist and fog will form. The edges of lakes, where banks RIIRJZLWKGHĆQHGHGJHVRIWHQIRUPDUH amongst the best locations. 6 CREPUSCULAR RAYS OR ‘GOD RAYS’ When light from the sun shines through Fogbow on Slioch Axx small gaps between clouds, ‘God rays’ can form. These sunbeams are created by particles in the air scattering the sunlight. The twilight period, and the hours around dawn and dusk, are the best times to witness this phenomenon. Slightly hazy days are best, and there needs to be enough cloud cover for only small gaps to allow the sun through. These conditions are most common in the summer in the UK, but crepuscular rays can be seen at any time of year. 7 LENTICULAR CLOUDS These odd, saucer-shaped clouds are not a common sight in the UK. As wind blows across a mountain range, it sometimes forms a series of ‘ripples’ in the air GRZQVWUHDP:LWKVXIĆFLHQWPRLVWXUH in the air, these ripples will cause water vapour to condense into lenticular clouds. ,WLVYHU\GLIĆFXOWWRSUHGLFWWKHVHXQXVXDO clouds unless you are a meteorologist, but in these islands they most often seem to form on easterly winds. April 2024 The Great Outdoors 61

Gear News Keen unveils new lightweight trail shoes The new Versacore trail shoes from Keen are designed for every type of terrain. The uppers are mesh with TPU overlays to protect against wear and tear, and there’s a padded collar to protect the ankle. The shoes are treated with Keen’s environmentally friendly Eco AntiOdour Control to stop them smelling. Underfoot there’s an anatomical PU foot bed with built-in arch support, a lightweight and high-rebound EVA midsole for cushioning, a bruise plate for additional protection from rocky and uneven surfaces, and a Keen All.Terrain rubber outsole with multi-directional lugs that wraps around the midsole for protection and lateral stability. The Versacore comes in two versions and in men’s and women’s sizes. The Versacore WP (£120) features the Keen.Dry waterproof, breathable membrane, whilst the Versacore Speed (£110) has a breathable vented mesh upper and is ideal for warm weather wear. Q RRP: from £110 keenfootwear.com Scarpa adds new boot to the Mescalito range The Mescalito TRK PRO GTX is a toughened and stiffened version of Scarpa’s TRK GTX, designed to carry heavy loads for longer year-round. The PRO has a durable waterresistant oiled nubuck leather upper and a Gore-Tex inner. The outsole is an exclusive Scarpa design made by Vibram with XS Trek Evo compound for good grip on all types of terrain. The boot is B1-rated and compatible with walking crampons. There are men’s and women’s sizes. Q RRP: £285 mountainboot.co.uk Rab launches ultralight mats, sleeping bag & pack Rab has launched two ultralight LQćDWDEOHPDWV7KH8OWUDVSKHUH ERDVWVDKHDWUHćHFWLYHLQQHUIRU warmth whilst the Ultrasphere 1.5 has a heat-trapping offset air chamber construction, making it Rab’s lightest and most packable mat. There’s also a new sleeping bag, the Mythic Ultra 120 modular J7KLVLVĆOOHGZLWK JUDPVRIffiĆOOSRZHU down, and has a recycled shell plus a harness for attaching it to the mat. Rab says the Mythic Ultra 120 and Ultrasphere FRPELQDWLRQ weighs just under 700 grams and is rated to 0°C. There’s a new ultralight pack to carry it in too: the Muon 50 (970g). Q553fflIURPe rab.equipment/uk Arc’teryx redesigns the Alpha SV Gore-Tex jacket The Alpha SV has been Arc’teryx’s most durable Gore-Tex 3URVKHOOMDFNHWVLQFHffiffifl7ZHQW\ĆYH\HDUVODWHULWèVEHHQ redesigned with a new recycled face fabric that’s super-durable and highly abrasion-resistant. The new Alpha SV is much lighter than the original too. It weighed 708 grams in 1998 but is just flJUDPVLQ7KH$OSKD69KDVDKHOPHWFRPSDWLEOHKRRG ZLWKD5(&&2UHćHFWRUEXLOWLQSOXVSLW]LSVDQGĆYHSRFNHWV All zips are WaterTight ones. QRRP: £800 arcteryx.com 64 New reviews 66 Day packs 71 %XGJHWćHHFHV Gear section News from the world of outdoor kit, and product reviews from the UK’s most experienced gear-testing team GEAR April 2024 The Great Outdoors 63

James Roddie ĐŚĞĐŬƐŽƵƚĂƉůĞĂƐŝŶŐůLJǀĞƌƐĂƟůĞ if pricey two-person, four-season tent The Bach Apteryx 2 is lightweight for its type and space. Particularly impressive is the very large vestibule. Two doors provide easy access and can be opened and secured in a YDULHW\RIZD\V,QĆQHZHDWKHUWKHHQWLUHYHVWLEXOHFDQEH rolled back. It is a versatile and effective design. Pitching is quick and intuitive. The poles are colour-coded WRPDNHLWHDV\WRĆQGWKHFRUUHVSRQGLQJVOHHYH3LWFKLQJLV ZLWKWKHLQQHUDQGć\VKHHWDVDXQLWRUć\VKHHWĆUVW7KHJDS EHWZHHQWKHć\VKHHWDQGWKHJURXQGLVYHU\VPDOOHYHQZKHQ pitching on uneven ground. Along with the bathtub-style ćRRURIWKHLQQHUWKLVHQVXUHVWKDWGUDXJKWVDUHNHSWWR a minimum. I was impressed with the tent’s performance LQZLQGHYHQZKHQQRWSLWFKHGDWTXLWHWKHRSWLPXPDQJOH $NLFNVWDQGYHQWDWHLWKHUHQGRIWKHWHQWKHOSVZLWKDLUćRZ and large mesh panels in the inner aid ventilation. 7KHLQQHUIHHOVVSDFLRXVDOORZLQJDPSOHURRPIRUWZRDQG plenty of headroom. Six large pockets in the inner provide a remarkable amount of ‘stash space’. I also like the double stash pockets for the inner door. The materials feel high-quality and durable throughout. ,GLGWKLQNWKHćRRUPDWHULDOIHOWDOLWWOHWKLQQHUWKDQ,ZRXOG OLNHIRUSLWFKLQJRQURXJKRUVWRQ\JURXQGEXWWKLVKHOSVNHHS the overall weight down. A full-length footprint can be SXUFKDVHGVHSDUDWHO\EXWWKLVLVH[SHQVLYHDWe 2YHUDOOWKLVLVDYHUVDWLOHOLJKWZHLJKWDQGVSDFLRXVWHQW ideal for use in a variety of conditions. Chris Townsend likes this jacket’s warm comfort but suggests a single improvement The Columbia Arch Rock is a synthetic insulated jacket that is VXUSULVLQJO\ZDUPDVLWLVTXLWHVOLPZLWKRXWWKHEXONRIPDQ\ synthetic jackets with similar warmth. This seems to be due to two design features. The double wall construction means WKHUHDUHIHZVHZQWKURXJKVHDPVZKLFKUHGXFHVKHDWORVV 3OXVWKHUHèVWKHUDWKHUJUDQGO\QDPHG2PQL+HDW,QĆQLW\ DGYDQFHGWKHUPDOUHćHFWLYHOLQLQJ7KHODWWHUFRQVLVWVRI DYHU\VKLQ\JROGGRWSDWWHUQWKDWUHćHFWVERG\KHDWEDFN The gold dots are found in the body and sleeves but not in WKHKRRGZKLFKLVSUREDEO\JRRGDVWKHVKLQ\IDEULFIHHOV DOLWWOHFULVSDQGUXVWOHVDELWZKLFKFRXOGEHXQSOHDVDQW against the ears. The hood lining is a soft and quiet fabric. 2IWKHWZRIHDWXUHV,WKLQNWKHUHćHFWLYHOLQLQJLVSUREDEO\ WKHPRUHVLJQLĆFDQWZLWKUHJDUGWRZDUPWK7KHLQVXODWLRQ inside is a soft polyester. The outer of the jacket has the same dot pattern and is also quite shiny. The latter probably helps LQUHSHOOLQJOLJKWUDLQDQGVQRZZKLFKMXVWVOLGHVRIIWKHIDEULF There is a DWR treatment too. The fabric is windproof. 7KHGHVLJQLVVWDQGDUGIRUDQLQVXODWHGMDFNHWZLWK handwarmer pockets that are cut off by a pack hipbelt and a fairly roomy though not map-sized chest pocket. The hood LVFRPIRUWDEOHDQGĆWVTXLWHZHOODVLWèVQRWRQHRIWKRVH helmet-compatible ones that fall down over your eyes. It’s not DGMXVWDEOHKRZHYHUDQGHDVLO\EORZVRIILQWKHZLQGDIDXOWRI too many jackets of this type. The rim is elasticated but it’s not FORVHĆWWLQJDQGLWPDNHVOLWWOHGLIIHUHQFHHYHQZKHQWKHKRRG is worn over a hat. A drawcord would be a big improvement and make the jacket far more functional. I found the Arch Rock comfortable to wear and it kept me warm sitting outside the tent on a frosty morning. %UHDWKDELOLW\LVQèWWKDWJRRGKRZHYHUDQGZKHQZDONLQJLQLW I soon started to get a bit sweaty even though there was a cold wind. For me this is more a jacket for camp and rest stop use rather than for walking. The weight and price are both reasonable for this type of JDUPHQW,OLNHWKHVOLPĆWåZDUPWKZLWKRXWEXONåEXWQRWWKH non-adjustable hood. Ɗîălj ƗƁŀljčŠĜĹÏĬƚÚĜĹčŞŅĬåŸxŞåčŸxŸƋƚüüŸ±Ïĩš durable, versatile, quick to pitch expensive Pitching: inner and flysheet as one unit Flysheet:'ULSVWRSQ\ORQ Inner:'ULSVWRSQ\ORQ Groundsheet:'ULSVWRSQ\ORQZLWK738ODPLQDWH Poles: 3 PegsfflflWZLVWHG<SHJVFPLUUHJXODU<SHJVFP Porches: Inner dimensions: [[FP:[/[+ bach-equipment.com ŅĬƚĵÆĜ± Arch Rock Double Wall Elite Hooded Insulated Jacket ƊƗljlj ăƗljčŠŸĜDŽåXš warmth without bulk non-adjustable hood Fill: flJ0LFURWHPS;),,flUHF\FOHGSRO\HVWHUSRO\HVWHU Shell: Q\ORQRXWHUSRO\HVWHULQQHU Hood: non-adjustable Cuffs: elasticated Hem: drawcord adjustable Pockets: ]LSSHGKDQG]LSSHGFKHVW Sizes: PHQ6;;/ZRPHQ;6;/ columbiasportswear.co.uk Photo: James Roddie New Gear ±ÏĘ eŞƋåųƼƻƗ RECOMMENDED April 2024 The Great Outdoors 65

Gear comparative review Capacity We reckon about 30 litres is a good size for three seasons – with more needed for winter and less for high summer. Be sure \RXFDQFRPIRUWDEO\ĆWHYHU\WKLQJ\RX need in the pack. Some bags are more VSDFLRXVWKDQRWKHUVHYHQZLWKWKHVDPH number of litres. Daisy chains, attachment points or pockets can be useful and add extra carrying capacity. Back system Packs with an internal frame or stiff back insert are most comfortable for FDUU\LQJKHDYLHUORDGV6RPHGD\SDFNV MXVWKDYHDSDGGHGEDFNåWKHVHFDQEH prone to bowing or buckling if the bag is RYHUSDFNHGRUQRWSDFNHGSURSHUO\3DFNV with a suspension back system allow PRUHYHQWLODWLRQ6RPHSDFNVPD\KDYH load-lifters straps at the top of the shoulder straps, to help balance the weight. Pockets 3RFNHWVYDU\åVRPHSDFNVIHDWXUHPDQ\ inside, on the side and on the front, whilst RWKHUVPD\MXVWKDYHDPDLQFRPSDUWPHQW and a lid pocket. Side mesh pockets are useful for water bottles. Hip belt pockets FDQEHXVHIXOIRUVWRULQJDVQDFNJORYHVRU electronics. Daypacks will often feature an internal hydration bladder pocket. Hip belt 3DGGHGKLSEHOWVVKRXOGĆWVQXJO\RQ your hips. Padded hip belts tend to be more comfortable than simple webbing waist straps, and support more weight. Hip belts on more technical packs may include a gear loop. Compression straps These are used to compress or expand the size of the pack. These should be easy to adjust and not get in the way of access to pockets. Walking pole/ice axe attachment For three-season use, the ability to attach an ice axe to the pack is useful. Some packs ZLOOKDYHDQLFHD[HVSHFLĆFDWWDFKPHQW point. Most daypacks will include walking pole attachment loops. A comfy carry makes for a better hill day 66 The Great Outdoors April 2024 HIKING DAYPACKS Mountain Leader Lucy Wallace and wildlife photographer James Roddie take a close look at the hillwalker’s ‘everyday carry’ – a hiking pack with enough room for a day’s-worth of supplies A SAFE AND SUCCESSFUL day in the hills usually requires some equipment to be carried, including food, drink spare clothing and safety kit. At the risk of stating the obvious, all that gear needs to be put in a bag – a rucksack ideally – and this is where the hiking daypack comes in handy. We’ve tested and reviewed a selection of men’s, women’s and unisex models, but how best to choose, and what do we look for in a hiking pack? A good place to start is to choose what volume you need the bag to be – and the amount of kit you carry will logically decide this. For three-season use, around 30 litres is a good size. 6RPHWKLQJVPDOOHUPD\EHĆQHIRUVHWWOHG summer weather, whereas in winter more volume is helpful for those extra layers and necessary equipment. It’s a good plan to try the pack on before heading out the door with it, ideally with a few kilos inside, to get a feel for what it is like when ORDGHG3OD\DURXQGZLWKWKHĆWDGMXVWLQJ shoulder straps and even back length if possible, aiming to take as much of the load as possible on the hips. Back systems vary from the very simple and light to carefully engineered options ZLWKDGMXVWDEOHEDFNOHQJWKVWKDWPD\EHPRUH comfortable but also heavier, so take the time WRĆJXUHRXWZKDWZRUNVEHVWIRU\RX Finally, think about features that are important for your day in the hills. Do you like to carry trekking poles, use a hydration system or have a water bottle somewhere handy? Which items do you need easy access to, and does the design of the bag facilitate this? How weatherresistant does it need to be? Rain covers offer some (limited) protection, but important items may need to be stored in waterproof bags. Photo credit: Gregory Packs Features

comparative review Gear April 2024 The Great Outdoors 67 ƊŏƗlj ŏŏîƁč comfortable back system, lots of zipped pockets curved back shape can be awkward for packing Materials: 50% recycled 330D nylon, fluorocarbon-free DWR Features: hip belt with zipped pockets, side bellows pockets, top pocket plus internal pocket. trekking pole attachment, whistle, rain cover, mesh outer pockets Sizes: one size for smaller backs (17in or 43cm) Men’s version: Airzone Trail 30L rab.equipment/uk 7KLVZRPHQèVVSHFLĆFSDFNIHDWXUHV/RZH$OSLQHèV$LU]RQH suspended mesh back system, which manages to be fairly lightweight, thanks to a big cutaway in the middle of the back, whilst incorporating plenty of padding where it’s welcome, around the lumbar and hip area. As you would expect, it’s very breathable, thanks to that big gap in the back. It does have a noticeable curve and is quite stiff. It can be hard to maximise VSDFHLISDFNLQJFDUHOHVVO\åĆOOLQJWKRVHERWWRPFRUQHUVHVSHFLDOO\ when using a rucksack liner. I do like the large zipped external side pockets, which are big enough for a water bottle, and something that has been consistent in Lowe Alpine’s design for decades, and it is nice to see it carried forward in the new generation of packs. There are also mesh side pockets, and side compression straps – it’s a challenge to use all three features at the same time! The top lid has an external and internal zipped pocket with ample storage space, there are zipped hip pockets, plus there’s a rain cover stored in the base. The ‘TipGripper’ attachment points – made of tough plastic with a hole to slot the tip of a trekking pole in when you strap it to the pack – are clever and useful Overall, the pack feels super-durable and well put together, thanks to 330D ripstop nylon that is from 50% recycled sources. Ɗŏăă ŏljăƑčŠaxXš roomy inside, adjustable back system stiff bottom edge of back panel cause discomfort for some Materials: bluesign-approved recycled nylon Features: 3 mesh outer pockets, top zipped pocket and internal zipped pocket, plus harness strap pocket, ice axe and trekking pole attachments, adjustable back system Sizes: XS/S, M/L Men’s version: Tempest 33 osprey.com The Tempest 30 is a versatile day sack with enough space to handle lightweight winter, hut-to-hut treks, even an overnight bivvy. The back system has less padding than many of the packs in this review but features an injection-moulded panel with mesh for YHQWLODWLRQSOXVDKRRNDQGORRSOHQJWKDGMXVWHU:KHQ,ĆUVWXVHG the pack, I found the bottom edge of this back panel created a painful pressure point that left a bruise, but this panel has softened ZLWKXVHDQGLVQRORQJHUDSUREOHP,OLNHWKHORZSURĆOHVKRXOGHU straps, which hug comfortably without bulk. The main body of the sack is very spacious and easy to load. There are vast external mesh pockets, and the lid pocket is enormous. The hip pockets are a good size too. There are a few neat features like a pole carry system on the shoulder straps, next to a small mesh pocket (big enough for shades or a snack bar). The pouch for a hydration system is external to the bag, sliding in between the back system and the main body, which is useful for access and ease of packing. Osprey doesn’t tell us much about the materials, but the fabric doesn’t feel as heavy-duty as some packs LQWKHUHYLHZZKLFKLVUHćHFWHGLQWKHUHODWLYHO\ORZZHLJKW This rucksack is a great all-rounder and it’s worth consideration, DVORQJDVWKHĆWZRUNVIRU\RX Lowe Alpine Airzone Trail c%ƗîX BEST IN TEST WOMEN’S HIKING DAYPACKS by Lucy Wallace TESTING CONDITIONS Lucy tested rucksacks in the mountains of Scotland and the Lake District over the course of a wet summer and autumn. In terms of back length, she usually opts for unisex small. The packs were weighed using her home digital scales. Osprey ‰åĵŞåŸƋƑlj RECOMMENDED

Gear comparative review 68 The Great Outdoors April 2024 ƊŏƑă ŏljƑƑčŠŸƋųĜŞŞåÚÚŅƵĹØƁĊljčš lightweight, customisable unisex design may not suit smaller frames Materials: PU-coated 210D recycled nylon, PFC-free Features: 3 outer mesh pockets and internal zipped mesh pocket, external zipped top pocket and hip pockets, ice axe loop, removable hip belt, compression system, foam board that doubles as a sit mat Sizes: one size Men’s version: unisex expeduk.com This pack differs from the others I tested in its simplicity and lightness. The back system is a moulded foam pad, stiffed with a removable PE foam insert that doubles as a sit mat. It’s a unisex design that only comes in one size. I’m a fairly tall woman at 171cm / 5ft 6in, but I have narrow shoulders. Nevertheless, I found it comfortable to carry even with a full load on longer days. Smaller folk may not have such luck. The PU-coated shell is made from 210D recycled ripstop nylon (free of harmful PFCs). The PU coating gives the fabric some degree of water repellence. There’s a 3000mm hydrostatic head, so it will see off light rain but isn’t waterproof. The already low overall weight can be reduced further by removing the foam pad, hip belt and the drawcord compression system. The hip belt is quite clever, in fact, as you can remove the whole thing, or just the padding and pockets, leaving the webbing belt in place. Despite being light, it’s well-featured with zipped pockets on the belt, internal and external zipped pockets, large mesh side pockets and a dazzling array of internal mesh pockets for organising gear. I like the large opening zip around the top, giving easy access. The drawcord compression system is a bit faffy (think annoying lengths of string that need to be tucked out of the way), but also fairly easy to take off if it isn’t being useful. Overall, this was the pack that I enjoyed testing the most, EXWLWGRHVQèWZLQWRSPDUNVDVLWZRQèWEHDJUHDWĆWIRUHYHU\RQH and it isn’t offered in alternative sizes. Ɗŏljă ŏƑljŏčŠŸĜDŽå„xaš sturdy, impressive load-carrying ability, adjustable back length bulky harness, heavy, small lid pocket Materials: 40% recycled 400D polyester with PFC-free DWR Features: 3 external mesh pockets, zipped internal and external pockets, hip belt pockets, rain cover, ice axe/trekking pole attachment Sizes: XS/S, S/M Men’s version: Zulu 30 eu.gregorypacks.com Nothing has been spared in pursuit of load-carrying comfort with the Jade 28. It features an adjustable back system, fat padded shoulder straps, a beefy lumbar pad and a broad hip belt, and it feels more like an expedition pack for multiday trips than a day sack, although the capacity is a modest 28 litres. For me, this was all a bit too much, and I found the back system EXON\DQGTXLWHDZUHVWOHWRDGMXVW+RZHYHULI\RXĆQGDORWRI rucksacks uncomfortable, this armchair of a day sack may be worth considering. Something to bear in mind: the external top pocket is quite VPDOO,WèVĆQHIRUDIHZVPDOOHVVHQWLDOVEXWLI\RXOLNHĆOOLQJWKH lid with everything from suncream and midge repellent to a hefty packed lunch (as I do), then a different model will suit you better. External storage does include huge mesh pockets on the side and body, roomy enough for a couple of water bottles and a set of lightweight waterproofs, but these are not zipped. On the other hand, the zipped hip belt pockets are also very spacious with room not just for a couple of bars but maybe even that sandwich, so the lid pocket is not necessarily a deal-breaker. There are lots of handy features: rain cover, key clip, ice axe loop and hydration pouch. All this adds weight, but I like how tough it feels. With a durable 400D nylon (40% recycled) and a reinforced base, this is a rucksack that is built to last. LIGHTEST IN TEST Exped FĵŞƚĬŸåƑlj BEST FOR ENVIRONMENT Gregory I±ÚåƗî BEST VALUE

comparative review Gear April 2024 The Great Outdoors 69 Ɗŏăă ŏƑĊljčŠĜĹÏĬƚÚĜĹčų±ĜĹÏŅƴåųš comfortable and adjustable back system, durable, versatile heavy Materials: 210D bluesign-approved nylon Features: Adjustable suspension back system, rain cover, ‘Stow-On-The-Go’ pole attachment Sizes: one size Women’s version: unisex osprey.com At 1340g this is the heaviest daypack in this test, and that weight could be considered excessive. But if comfort is your priority, this is a very appealing option. The back and hip system is exceptionally comfortable and breathable. The straps and hip belt use ventilated EVA foam. A ‘ladder’ adjustment system allows 10cm of adjustability on the back, making the pack suitable for a wide range of back lengths. The Airspeed suspension system helps to keep your back cool in warmer conditions and reduces perspiration. Weight transfer is H[FHOOHQWDQGRYHUDOO,IRXQGWKLVWKHFRPĆHVWSDFNLQWKHWHVW The side mesh pockets are deep and very stretchy. Mesh pockets are often a weak spot for wear and tear, but these were WRXJK%RWKHDVLO\ĆWDODUJHZDWHUERWWOH7KHUHLVDOVRDWRS pocket, internal lid pocket and front pocket, all spacious. The zips on the top and front are protected, aiding water resistance. 7KHKLSEHOWSRFNHWVMXVWDERXWĆWDPHGLXPVL]HGVPDUWSKRQH But I found that using a hydration bladder with this daypack was limiting. With a full, large bladder in the bladder pocket, the space of the main compartment felt excessively restricted. This is due to the shape of the bag and the back system design. I thus ended up carrying water in bottles instead. I liked the ‘Stow-On-The-Go’ attachments for walking poles. A loop on one of the straps and the lower side of the pack allows you to stash poles without taking the pack off. Poles can also be stored on the front of the bag by using the ice axe attachment loop and bungee tie-off. The materials are tough throughout and this is clearly a very durable product. Although it is quite expensive it will clearly last. Ɗălj ƁljljčŠĜĹÏĬƚÚĜĹčų±ĜĹÏŅƴåųš ±ýŅųÚ±ÆĬåØĬĜčĘƋƵåĜčĘƋ؟ޱÏĜŅƚŸ ƱÏĩŸƼŸƋåĵ±ĹÚĘĜŞÆåĬƋĹŅƋŧƚĜƋåŸŅÏŅĵüŅųƋ±ÆĬå ±ŸŅƋĘåųƱčŸĜĹƋåŸƋ Materials: 210D nylon Features: rain cover, walking pole/ice axe attachments, front access zip for main compartment Sizes: one size Women’s version: yes highlander-outdoor.com This is by far the least expensive daypack in this test, which is immediately appealing if you are on a tight budget. At 700g it is also the lightest pack in this test, but this is a well-built product that feels durable. The main compartment feels really spacious, and can be accessed both from the top and the front. The front of the bag features two long zips – one to access the main compartment, the other to access a full-length front pocket. There is also a relatively spacious top pocket, two elasticated mesh side pockets and a hydration bladder pocket. The side pockets are easy to reach whilst wearing the bag and are large enough to hold a sizeable water bottle. In showery conditions the bag did a good job at keeping out moisture without using the rain cover. There are two walking pole loops on the front of the bag, which also work perfectly for an ice axe. The back and hip belt system is the only area where I felt WKLVEDJIHOODOLWWOHćDW,IRXQGLWFRPIRUWDEOHPRVWRIWKHWLPH H[FHSWZKHQ,ĆOOHGWKHSDFNWRFDSDFLW\7KHEDFNLVFORVHĆWWLQJ and as the internal foam pad is very thin the back is prone to bowing outwards. I found that back ventilation was an issue in warmer conditions with this pack. I would also have appreciated a little more padding on the hip belt, although I found it comfortable except when carrying a heavy load. However, this simple design helps to keep the bag lightweight, and I would not expect a more advanced carry system in a bag of this price. Overall, this is a spacious and lightweight daypack. Whilst it may lack the more advanced features found in some more expensive packs, there is a lot to like here at a highly affordable price. MEN’S HIKING DAYPACKS by James Roddie TESTING CONDITIONS James tested the daypacks in a variety of conditions and locations in the Scottish Highlands. Tests were carried out on both day walks and scrambles. James has a medium-length back. The packs were weighed using his home digital scales. Osprey „Ƌų±ƋŅŸƗƆ BEST IN TEST Highlander ‰ų±ĜĬ±ÏĩޱÏĩ BEST VALUE LIGHTEST IN TEST

Gear comparative review 70 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Ɗŏălj îîljč very spacious, durable, lightweight no rain cover, back non-adjustable Materials: 210D nylon Features: RECCO reflector bar, shock-cord on front, walking pole attachments Sizes: one size Women’s version: unisex hellyhansen.com This feels like a particularly spacious daypack. The main FRPSDUWPHQWLVYHU\URRP\DQG,ZDVDEOHWRĆWDOLWWOHPRUHLQ here than I might expect for a 30L pack. Thankfully this does not come with a weight premium – at 880g it remains lightweight. There is only one size available, and it is a pack aimed at those with a short-to-medium-length back. At 180cm / 5ft 11in I am a little tall for the length of this daypack, but I still found it comfortable. The back, straps and hips are well-padded, and I was comfortable carrying the bag with a full load for long periods. Access to the main compartment is via a large zipped lid, which opens very wide indeed. This makes it easy and quick to ĆQGDQ\WKLQJLQWKHPDLQFRPSDUWPHQWVR,GLGQRWPLQGWKHODFN of a front access zip. There is no external top pocket, but there is a large mesh pocket inside the lid. The hip belt has two mesh SRFNHWVZKLFK,FRXOGMXVWDERXWĆWDPHGLXPVL]HGVPDUWSKRQH in, but it was a squeeze. The side mesh pockets can hold a large water bottle each. Like quite a few of Helly Hansen’s other SURGXFWVWKLVGD\SDFNLQFOXGHVD5HFFRUHćHFWRUEDU7KLVLVD passive transponder that makes you searchable to rescue teams within range that are using a RECCO detector. Many ski areas and mountain rescue teams in Europe use this technology. Overall, I found this bag to be the least water-resistant of the packs in this test. There is no rain cover provided, and the main zip lets in rain water easily. I would prefer the zip to be covered. However, the size of the main compartment makes it particularly easy to store everything that needs to keep dry inside a single, large dry-bag. The large main opening also makes it quick and easy to pull a large dry-bag in and out without it collapsing. This is a lightweight, comfy and particularly spacious bag, aimed at walkers with short to medium back lengths. Ɗŏălj ŏljĊljčŠĜĹÏĬƚÚĜĹčų±ĜĹÏŅƴåųš excellent balance on technical terrain, innovative back system non-adjustable length Materials: recycled 210D nylon Features: gear loop on hip belt, daisy chains on front, rain cover, twin compression system Sizes: one size Women’s version: unisex salewa.com This is a daypack designed for technical hiking and scrambling EXWHTXDOO\VXLWHGWRPRUHJHQHUDOXVH,WKDVDWDOOVOLPSURĆOH DQGLVFORVHĆWWLQJ,WPRYHVZHOOZLWK\RXUERG\DQGPDLQWDLQV excellent balance on technical terrain. The Dry Back system provides good ventilation. This is a foam back panel with UHJXODUO\VSDFHGDLUVORWVDORQJLWVOHQJWK,ĆQGWKLVZRUNVUHDOO\ well for the varied conditions of three-season use. The unusual split shoulder straps aim to reduce body contact and save weight. They contain little padding, but were surprisingly comfortable. The hip belt is similarly comfy. The single pocket on the hip belt’s VLGHFDQĆWDVPDOOHUVPDUWSKRQH2QWKHRWKHUVLGHLVDJHDUORRS for via ferrata use, equally handy if mountaineering, when you might want quick access to slings or karabiners. Two daisy chains on the front of the bag offer numerous other attachment points. The main compartment feels spacious and is accessed from the top and from a full-length side zip. There is limited space for storage in the lid, but a full-length front pocket makes up for this. A ‘twin compression system’ allows quick, effective compression of the bag by pulling a single loop on each side. A single ice axe attachment and two pole loops are at the bottom of the bag, but no attachments higher up. This means the poles or axe have to be tucked underneath the twin compression straps, which feels a OLWWOHĆGGO\,èGKDYHSUHIHUUHGDPRUHXVXDOVHFRQGDWWDFKPHQW point for the poles/axe instead. The S-shaped back insert can be removed if preferred. This reduces the weight by 100g for those wanting to go as light as possible. Overall, this is a well-rounded daypack suited to technical hiking and scrambling, with a lightweight, stylish design. Helly Hansen ‰ų±ĹŸĜŸƋŅųƑljX Salewa Mountain Trainer ƗƗî HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

comparative review Gear Material Warmth is determined by thickness, and wind resistance by the density of WKHZHDYHWKRXJKQRćHHFH fabric without an additional shell or inner membrane is very windproof. Pockets These aren’t essential but handwarmer ones are cosy and small ones for items like a compass can be useful. Check to see if pockets can be used when wearing a pack hipbelt. Many can’t. Fit As these garments will sometimes be worn under shell garments, they shouldn’t be baggy or voluminous. However, they also need to be roomy HQRXJKWRĆWFRPIRUWDEO\ over other layers. Weight & bulk These factors only matter if the jacket is going to spend much time in your rucksack. Otherwise, warmth and performance are more important. Testing conditions &KULVWHVWHGWKHVHćHHFHV through summer, autumn and winter in the Scottish Highlands, on both day walks and multiday backpacking trips, and in all conditions. xxx April 2024 The Great Outdoors 71 BUDGET FLEECES Chris Townsendtakes a close look at a tried and true outdoor VWDQGE\åWKHKXPEOHćHHFHWRSåDQGVKRZVWKDW NHHSLQJZDUPQHHGQèWEHWRRH[SHQVLYH SOFT SHELL DQGWKLQV\QWKHWLFLQVXODWHGWRSV PD\JHWPRVWRIWKHDWWHQWLRQWKHVHGD\VEXW KXPEOHćHHFHLVVWLOODYHU\SUDFWLFDODQGYHUVDWLOH IDEULFIRUDPLGOD\HU,WèVOLJKWZHLJKWZDUPYHU\ EUHDWKDEOHIDVWGU\LQJYHU\FRPIRUWDEOHDQG YHU\GXUDEOH,QFDOPGU\ZHDWKHULWFDQEHZRUQ DVDQRXWHUOD\HU,QZHWDQGZLQG\ZHDWKHULWèV LGHDOIRUZHDULQJXQGHUDVKHOO,IćHHFHKDVDQ\ GLVDGYDQWDJHLWèVWKDWLWèVOHVVFRPSUHVVLEOHWKDQ GRZQRUV\QWKHWLFLQVXODWLRQDQGVRWDNHVXSPRUH URRPLQWKHSDFN )OHHFHLVJHQHUDOO\PDGHIURPSRO\HVWHULQ YDULRXVWKLFNQHVVHVGHQVLWLHVDQGZHLJKWV7KH WKLQQHVWćHHFHVDUHWKHOLJKWHVWDQGORZHVWLQEXON ,ĆQGWKHPWKHPRVWXVHIXODVWKH\SURYLGHDOOWKH ZDUPWK,QHHGZKHQZDONLQJDQGLQVXPPHURIWHQ DOOWKHZDUPWK,QHHGLQFDPSWRR,GRUXQKRW WKRXJK7KLFNHUPLGZHLJKWćHHFHVDUHDEHWWHU FKRLFHIRUWKRVHZKRIHHOWKHFROG,ĆQGWKHP WRRZDUPLQDOOEXWELWWHUZLQWHUFRQGLWLRQV 6WDQGDUGćHHFHLVQèWZLQGSURRIZKLFKLV DSOXVSRLQWDVLWPHDQVLWèVYHU\EUHDWKDEOHDQG FRPIRUWDEOHRYHUDZLGHUDQJHRIWHPSHUDWXUHV ,WLVZDWHUUHSHOOHQWDQGIDVWGU\LQJSURSHUWLHV WKDWFDQEHHQKDQFHGZLWKDSURGXFWOLNH1LNZD[ 3RODU3URRI )OHHFHWRSVYDU\HQRUPRXVO\LQSULFHZLWKWKH PRVWH[SHQVLYHFRVWLQJXSWRe+RZHYHU PDQ\DUHIDUOHVVH[SHQVLYHWKDQWKLV$OOWKRVH UHYLHZHGKHUHDUHXQGHUeffi7KH\ZRUNMXVW DVZHOODVPRUHH[SHQVLYHJDUPHQWV:KDWWKH\ODFN DUHIHDWXUHVOLNHERG\PDSSHGIDEULFVPXOWLSOH SRFNHWVDQGKRRGV:KLOVWWKHVHPLJKWEHQLFHWR KDYHWKH\GRQèWUHDOO\DIIHFWWKHSHUIRUPDQFH 6LPSOHUćHHFHVDUHDOVRXVXDOO\OLJKWHUZHLJKWWRR DERQXVIRUEDFNSDFNHUV7KHEHVWćHHFHVIRU ZDUPWKWRZHLJKWDUHSXOORYHUVW\OHVZLWKVKRUW QHFNRSHQLQJV7KHWKUHHRIWKHVHUHYLHZHGKHUH DOOZHLJKOHVVWKDQJUDPV$OORIWKHćHHFHV UHYLHZHGKHUHFRPHUHFRPPHQGHG:KLFKLV EHVWIRU\RXGHSHQGVRQZDUPWKUHTXLUHGĆW Photo credit: Alpkit DQGZKLFKVW\OHVDQGIHDWXUHV\RXSUHIHU Features

comparative review Gear April 2024 The Great Outdoors 73 ƊƁlj ĊŏăčŠXš warmth, recycled fabric & zips a little heavier than alternatives Materials: recycled polyester Thermo 200 Classic Fleece Features: YKK recycled front and pocket zips, 2 handwarmer pockets, double collar Sizes: men S-XXL, women 8-18 Women’s/men’s version: yes montane.com 7KH6\QHUJ\LVWKHZDUPHVWćHHFHWHVWHGåMXVWåDQGDOVRWKH heaviest, though it’s still quite light. The fabric is thick and plush. It’s brushed on both sides and feels soft against the skin. 0RQWDQHGHVFULEHVWKHĆWDVçVWDQGDUGè,WèVFORVHUĆWWLQJRQ PHWKDQWKHRWKHUćHHFHVWKRXJKQRWVRPXFKWKDWLWUHVWULFWV movement even though the fabric doesn’t stretch. I couldn’t FRPIRUWDEO\ZHDULWRYHUPRUHWKDQDEDVHOD\HUåQRWWKDW,FDQ imagine a need to do so. 7KHFORVHĆWLVXVHIXODVWKHKHPDQGFXIIVDUHQèWHODVWLFDWHG RUDGMXVWDEOH,IWKH\ZHUHPRUHURRP\KHDWFRXOGHVFDSH 7KHKLJKVQXJGRXEOHOD\HUFROODULVFORVHĆWWLQJDQGZDUPWRR The pockets are roomy but cut off by a pack hipbelt. Both the fabric and the zips are recycled, which is excellent. $VDZDUPćHHFHIRUFROGZHDWKHUWKH6\QHUJ\LVDJRRGFKRLFH On a calm day with below-freezing temperatures, it kept me warm when worn over a thin base layer without a shell over it. Montane Synergy BEST FOR ENVIRONMENT

Gear comparative review 74 The Great Outdoors April 2024 ƊƆă ƗƁljčŠXš Polartec fleece, chest pocket no handwarmer pockets Materials: Polartec Classic micro fleece Features: half-length zip, zipped chest pocket Sizes: men XS-XXXL, women 8-20 Women’s/men’s version: yes berghaus.com 3RODUWHFPDGHWKHĆUVWHYHUćHHFHIDEULFVEDFNLQffiflDQGLW KDVEHHQWKHPDUNHWOHDGHUHYHUVLQFH0LFURćHHFHLV3RODUWHFèV OLJKWHVWćHHFHDQGLWXVHVYHU\ĆQH\DUQVWRJLYHDYHU\VRIWIHHO ,WèVEUXVKHGLQVLGHDQGRXWDQGLVYHU\SOXVKZLWKDORYHO\DJDLQVW WKHVNLQ,WèVQRWDVZDUPDVWKLFNHUćHHFHVEXW,ĆQGLWĆQHIRUDOO EXWWKHFROGHVWZLQWHUZHDWKHU 7KH3ULVP+DOI=LSLVDYHU\FRPIRUWDEOHSXOORYHUZLWKDORQJ QHFN]LSIRUYHQWLODWLRQDQGWRPDNHLWHDV\WRSXOORQDQGRII 7KHRQO\RWKHUIHDWXUHLVDXVHIXOFKHVWSRFNHWWKDWHDVLO\KROGV DVPDUWSKRQH7KHUHDUHQRKDQGZDUPHUSRFNHWVZKLFK,GR PLVVDOLWWOH7KHUHèVQRHODVWLFDWLRQDWWKHKHPDQGFXIIVHLWKHU EXWDVWKHWRSĆWVTXLWHFORVHO\,GLGQèWQRWLFHDQ\KHDWORVVDW WKHVHSRLQWV 7KHĆWLVTXLWHURRP\LQWKHERG\ZKLFKLVJRRGDVWKHIDEULF GRHVQèWVWUHWFKPXFK7KHKLJKQHFNĆWVFORVHO\ZKLFKLVJRRGIRU NHHSLQJLQZDUPWK The Prism is a lightweight top, and the price is good for a 3RODUWHFćHHFH Ɗălj ƑĊljčŠaš warmth no chest pocket Materials: &RUH&flVWULSHGSRO\HVWHUIOHHFH Features: IXOOOHQJWKIURQW]LS]LSSHG KDQGZDUPHUSRFNHWVGRXEOHFROODU Sizes: men S-XXXL, women 8-20 (Dearg Jacket) Women’s/men’s version: \HVZRPHQèV'HDUJ sprayway.com 7KH0DROLVDVWDQGDUGćHHFHMDFNHWLQGHVLJQZLWKDIURQW ]LSWZRKDQGZDUPHUSRFNHWVDQGDKLJKFROODU7KHćHHFH LVDOLWWOHXQXVXDOWKRXJK7KHRXWHUKDVDYHU\ĆQHVWULSHG SDWWHUQKHQFHWKHQDPH,WèVKDUGO\QRWLFHDEOHXQWLO\RX ORRNFORVHO\7KHLQVLGHLVFRPSOHWHO\GLIIHUHQW,WèVIXUU\ DQGEUXVKHGZLWKDPRWWOHGORRN7KHUHVXOWLVD FRPIRUWDEOHćHHFHWKDWIHHOVĆQHDJDLQVWWKHVNLQDQGLV DERXWLQWKHPLGGOHRIWKHJDUPHQWVWHVWHGIRUZDUPWK 7KHĆWLVTXLWHURRP\7KHRQHVXSSOLHGLVD0HGLXPVL]H UDWKHUD/DUJHDQGLWèVFRPIRUWDEOHZRUQRYHUDEDVHOD\HU DQGGRHVQèWUHVWULFWPRYHPHQW7KHUHLVDOLWWOHVWUHWFK EXWQRWPXFK$VWKHKHPDQGFXIIVDUHQèWHODVWLFDWHGRU DGMXVWDEOH,ZRXOGQèWZDQWDORRVHUĆWWKDWFRXOGOHWZDUP RXWDWWKHVHSRLQWV 7KHSRFNHWVDUHURRP\7KH\èUHOLQHGZLWKWKLQ7ULFRW ZKLFKLVVRIWDJDLQVWWKHKDQGV7KHFROODULVKLJKDQGĆWV PHVQXJO\ 7KH0DROLVWKHQH[WKHDYLHVWćHHFHUHYLHZHGEXWDOVR WKHQH[WORZHVWLQSULFH,WèVDSHUIHFWO\VHUYLFHDEOHMDFNHW Sprayway Maol RECOMMENDED Berghaus Prism Micro Polartec Half-Zip RECOMMENDED

comparative review Gear April 2024 The Great Outdoors 75 Ɗîă ƑƑljčŠXš environmentally friendly fabric, elasticated hem ±ĹÚÏƚýŸ no chest pocket Materials: 70% recycled polyester, 30% Bio3 carbon smart polyester Features: full-length front zip, zipped handwarmer pockets, double collar elasticated hem & cuffs Sizes: men XXS-5XL, women 6-26 Women’s/men’s version: yes craghoppers.com 7KH&25HQXćHHFHLVQèWMXVWPDGHIURPUHF\FOHGćHHFH but also contains C02RENU, a Bio3 smart polyester that “captures carbon emissions before they are omitted into the atmosphere and transforms them into yarns” (see tinyurl.com/ CO2Renu for more information). 7KHUHVXOWLQJćHHFHMDFNHWLVVRIWFRPIRUWDEOHDQGRQHRI the warmest tested, making it good for really cold weather or those who feel the cold. It has roomy pockets that are lined ZLWKćHHFHJLYLQJDGRXEOHOD\HURILQVXODWLRQRYHUWKHPLGULII They are cut off by a pack hipbelt though. The high collar is snug and warm. I like the elastication at the hem and cuffs as this reduces heat loss. 7KHĆWLVDELWVQXJJHUWKDQPRVWRIWKHRWKHUćHHFHVWHVWHG 0\VL]H/DUJHLVĆQHRYHUDEDVHOD\HUEXW,FRXOGQèWZHDULW FRPIRUWDEO\RYHUDQ\WKLQJPRUH The cost is the highest of the garments tested but there are more features than with most of the others, and the HQYLURQPHQWDOIDEULFVRXQGVOLNHDVWHSIRUZDUG ƊƑlj ƗŏăčŠĵåĹűŸXš lightweight, very low price no pockets Materials: Feather Weight Microfleece polyester Features: short neck zip Sizes: men XS-XXL women XS-XL (Glacial IV Half Zip) Women’s/men’s version: \HVZRPHQèV*ODFLDO,9+DOI=LS columbiasportswear.co.uk 7KH.ODPDWKLVWKHOLJKWHVWDQGORZHVWFRVWćHHFHWHVWHGDQG LWèVDJUHDWFKRLFHIRUZHLJKWFRQVFLRXVEDFNSDFNHUVDQGWKRVH RQDVWULFWEXGJHW,WèVPDGHIURPDWKLQPLFURćHHFHZLWKD VPRRWKLQQHUDQGDEUXVKHGSOXVKRXWHU,WèVQRWDVZDUPDV WKHRWKHUćHHFHVWHVWHGZKLFKLVJRRGIRUPXFKRIWKH\HDU for those like me who run hot. 8QVXUSULVLQJO\JLYHQWKHORZZHLJKWDQGFRVWWKHGHVLJQ LVVLPSOHZLWKMXVWRQHIHDWXUHfflD]LSDWWKHQHFN'HVSLWHWKH QDPHWKLVLVQèWKDOIOHQJWK,WèVPRUHOLNHTXDUWHUOHQJWK7KLVLV DGHTXDWHWKRXJKDQG,GLGQèWPLVVDORQJHURQH7KHUHDUHQR pockets and no elastication at the cuffs or hem. The last two DUHIDLUO\FORVHĆWWLQJDQ\ZD\7KHIDEULFVWUHWFKHVPRUHWKDQ the others tested and so hugs the body more. 7KH/DUJHLVDIDLUO\ORRVHĆWRQPHWKRXJKLIWKHFROODUZDV DQ\QDUURZHU,FRXOGQèWGRWKH]LSXSIXOO\7KLVGRHVPDNHIRUD ZDUPQHFN7KHVWUHWFKPHDQVWKH.ODPDWKGRHVQèWIHHOEDJJ\ Craghoppers kƗåĹƚ8ƚĬĬ¬ĜŞ 8ĬååÏå RECOMMENDED Columbia UĬ±ĵ±ƋʱĹčåFF B±Ĭü¬ĜŞ BEST VALUE LIGHTEST IN TEST

10 varied routes in Scotland, England and Wales Norman Hadley 5LFKDUG+DUWĆHOG Nike Werstroh Alex Roddie Ian Battersby Vivienne Crow Fiona Barltrop Francesca Donovan 2XUZDONVëLVPRQë 1 Strathdearn & the Monadhliath Central Highlands 4 Cauldcleuch Head Southern Uplands 2 Ardmore Bay Isle of Mull 3 Deuchary Hill Perthshire 10 High Peak & Otter Estuary Jurassic Coast 8 Abereiddy to Porthgain Pembrokeshire 9 St Martha’s Hill & Silent Pool Surrey Hills 5 Yeavering Bell Northumberland National Park 7 Rhinog Fawr & Craig Ddrwg Eryri/ Snowdonia 6 Y Garn & Foelgoch via Devil’s Kitchen Eryri/ Snowdonia 1 6 3 8 2 7 4 9 5 10 It’s not uncommon amongst hillwalkers to seek solitude out of doors. But perhaps there is no greater joy to be found in the wild(ish) spaces of Britain than an encounter with the locals. Here, our contributors share the routes on which they’ve been lucky enough to stumble upon the company of wildlife. Whether you seek face-to-face time with the feral goats of the Rhinogydd, spy the supremely majestic golden eagles of the Monadhliath, prance awhile with the wild ponies of Eryri or simply search for the humble bluebell, there is life to be found out there. May these routes lead you to it and inspire a deeper connection with nature. Francesca Donovan Acting Editor

Strathdearn & the Monadhliath Central Highlands SCOTLAND Ɨljţŀĩĵ/ŏƑĵĜĬåŸ/ƆĘŅƚųŸ 1 AscentăƑƁĵxŏƁƆƗüƋ SOMETHING UNIQUE and magical happens, powerful enough to bring any journey to a whispered standstill, when an eagle slides on huge soaring wings into your day. ere is a joyful sense of privilege and appreciation when this regal hunter shares its realm with a cursed enemy. Once ubiquitous, these birds suered greatly aer targeting by farmers and gamekeepers, and pesticides then wreaked havoc on the beleaguered population. But conservation projects have turned the tide despite unlawful killings, and 500 pairs are cracking a measured comeback today. Scotland is the haystack to hunt in, yet it remains a dubious enterprise, though some regions carry more luck than others. Strathdearn in the Monadhliath, where the Findhorn River runs beneath skies hemmed in by assembled knolls, is such a place. Here I was happy to discover an alluring valley beneath a purple bloom of high heather moorland and crags. ese scenes would be gratifying enough – even without the seven golden eagles seen on one sunny day here. Ian Battersby spies seven golden eagles in the sunny Monadhliath Caimhlin Mor from Strathdearn Creag Dubh Tigh an Aitinn and Creag Bhreac Coignafearn Lodge and the River Findhorn Am Bathaich and Meall an Duibhe April 2024 The Great Outdoors 77

Further information Maps: OS Explorer 417 (1:25k), OS Landranger 35 (1:50k) Transport: none to start i Tourist information: tinyurl.com/AviemoreTiC, 01479 810930 78 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 700 600 500 400 300 1 2 3 4 5 6 (6(WRUHDFKDVLJQLĆFDQWEHQG WRWKHULJKW&RQWLQXHFOLPELQJ SSE past small waterfalls in Elrick Burn and a large ash tree growing E\WKHVWUHDPWKHQFURVV&DRFKDQ Beag Bun Fhraoich to reach a MXQFWLRQRIWUDFNVE\&DRFKDQ0RU Bun Fhraoich. 4 NH688117Ignore the right turn re-crossing Elrick Burn. Instead follow the main track, zig-zagging E up a steep incline to altitude 730m and leaving the (OULFN%XUQYDOOH\EHKLQG1RZ the track follows an undulating :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬå0HWUHVDERYHVHDOHYHO Start/finish parking in Strathdearn near Coignafearn ŠkĬÚXŅÚčåš:×cBƁŏŏŏîŏ 1 NH7111817KHUHLVDVL]HDEOH SDUNLQJDUHDMXVWEHIRUHWKH road ends at Coignafearn (Old Lodge). Walk SW along the road to Coignafearn, where the tarmac ends DWDZRRGHQEULGJH&URVVWKHEULGJH to reach a junction of tracks just EHIRUHWKHEXLOGLQJV&RQWLQXH6: SDVWWKHEXLOGLQJVDORQJWKHPDLQ valley track, passing through a ZKLWHPHWDOYHKLFOHEDUULHUIRU DERXWDPLOHWRDPHWDOUDLOHG EULGJHRYHUWKH$OOW&DOGHU Continue SW, soon turning WSW as the track nears the EURDG5LYHU)LQGKRUQEHIRUH reaching the impressive Coignafearn Lodge. Green alluring hills crowd the lively river around the lodge, drawing the eye to an undulating skyline that eagles may patrol. Continue past WKHJUDQGEXLOGLQJKHDGLQJ6: over the Allt Fionnach wooden EULGJHIRUPWRUHDFKDQ LPSUHVVLYHEULGJHDOORZLQJD FURVVLQJRIWKH5LYHU)LQGKRUQ 2 NH678149&URVVWKHEULGJH and follow a good track, FOLPELQJ6LQWRDQDUURZLQJKHDWKHU moorland valley with the Elrick Burn running amongst sporadic trees on WKHOHIW7KHWUDFNFOLPEVDERYHWKH EURDGEXUQDVLWVQDNHVWKURXJKD URFN\JRUJHEXWVRRQUHWXUQVWRWKH EHFNVLGH$IWHUDERXWDPLOHRIJHQWOH ascent to around 510m there is an H[FHOOHQWIRRWEULGJHRQWKHOHIW ZKLFKVHHPVWRJRQRZKHUHEXWLV very useful for avoiding wet feet in the ford 400m up the track ahead. 3 NH676132 &URVVWKHEULGJH DQGFOLPEXSWKURXJKKHDWKHU DVKRUWZD\WRĆQGYHKLFOHWUDFNV )ROORZWKHVH6ZLWKWKHEXUQRQ your right to meet the main track again at the ford. Follow the track again as it eases upward, turning north-easterly trend, with the Allt Deamhaidh twisting 1WKURXJKDQDWWUDFWLYHVWHHS VLGHGYDOOH\7KHWUDFNEHQGV1( FOLPELQJWRPMXVW6RI&DUQ Choire Odhair, then drops E, WXUQLQJ1(DORQJVLGH&DRFKDQ Glasaichean Beag to reach a wooden shooting hut near DVKDUSULJKWEHQGDERYH Allt Fionndairnich. 5 NH729151 After the hut the WUDFNWXUQV1(ZLWKDVKRUW VKDUSFOLPEWRWKHODVWKLJKSRLQWDW P1RZWKHWUDFNWXUQVDURXQG WRWKH11:GURSSLQJVORZO\DW ĆUVWZLWKIDUUHDFKLQJYLHZV opening up across the heather moors towards the Cairngorms in the SE. Cross the VDGGOHE\&DUQ0RU and follow the track dropping steeply to a small pine wood at &RLJQDIHXLQWHUQLFKEH\RQG ZKLFKWKHUHLVDZRRGHQEULGJH over the Allt Fionndairnich. 6 NH724177 &URVVWKHEULGJH DQGIROORZWKHWUDFN11(WR UHDFKDQRWKHUODUJHEULGJHFURVVLQJ WKH5LYHU)LQGKRUQE\WKHFRQLIHUV of Coignascallan, reaching the main Strathdearn valley road just EH\RQG7XUQOHIWDORQJWKHURDGIRU 1 mile to return to the car park.

Ardmore Bay Isle of Mull SCOTLAND ƗĊĩĵ/ŏĊţŀĵĜĬåŸ/ƆěîĘŅƚųŸ 2 AscentăƆƁĵxŏîƆljüƋ “GET YOURSELF to Mull if you want to see otters,” my brother James, a professional wildlife photographer, had told me a few weeks earlier. When my wife Hannah and I were planning our holiday, we wanted somewhere that could oer plenty of coastal walking as well as the opportunity to see interesting wildlife. is hike starts in Tobermory to take in Ardmore Bay, a secluded cove close to Ardmore Point, which is the northernmost point on the island. e main attraction of Ardmore Bay is that its rocky shoreline is frequented by seals, otters and a wide variety of bird life – but it’s also a delightful spot for a sunny aernoon picnic, with gorgeous views across the sea to Ardnamurchan. e walk continues along forest tracks to Glengorm Castle (which was built in 1860 aer its owner cleared the nearby hamlet to make way for the new house) and Dun Ara, a ruined medieval castle perched on a hill above the sea. Other points of interest include a stone circle and an excellent coee shop. Alex Roddie visits Mull’s northern edge in search of views and wildlife Tobermory harbour Looking across Ardmore Bay towards Ardnamurchan Highland cattle in the Dun Ara area Down into Ardmore Bay April 2024 The Great Outdoors 79

Further information Maps: OS Explorer 374 (1:25k), OS Landranger 47 (1:50k) Transport: Tobermory can be reached by ferry from Oban to Craignure, then bus service 495 to Tobermory i Tourist information: Tobermory Tourist Information, 01680 812556 80 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 14 16 18 2012 24 22 200 100 0 1 2 3 4 7 5 8 6 9 at least 15 buildings, but the area was planted with trees in the 1950s and was probably abandoned decades before that. From Ardmore the track, now a narrow path, descends gently through bracken with clear views of the sea ahead. 4 NM470587Reach the shoreline at Ardmore Bay, where there is a tiny secluded rocky cove and a substantial cairn. The path, now rough and rocky, diverts left just above the high-tide line. This is a delightful walk with several short climbs and descents, each revealing a different portion of this intricate coastline. Seals can often be seen sunning on the rocks. Look for traces of otters, including pale otter ‘spraint’ (dung), which may FRQWDLQĆVKVFDOHV7KHDQLPDOV themselves are shy and best seen at dawn or dusk. Continue along this path to reach a small wooden hide, which offers great views out across the bay. 5 NM467585 From the hide, take the forestry track climbing SE and soon pass through the ruins of Penalbanach. :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Tobermory town centre :×caăljăăăƑ (or car park at :×caĊîƆăăî) 1 NM505553 Take the narrow lane left of the Co-Op and climb steeply uphill to reach Argyll Terrace beneath a converted church. Turn left, then right along Albert Street. At the B882, turn left and take it past Tobermory Cemetery. Keep following the B882 out of town. At a four-way junction, turn right and follow this lane for about 1.5km, past a recycling centre to the edge of forestry where there is a parking area. Alternatively, start/ ĆQLVKWKHZDONDWWKHSDUNLQJDUHD to reduce the overall length by 2.5km each way. 2 NM486558 Take the obvious forest track heading NW. Sea views begin to open up through gaps in the trees. After 1.8km, take a right turn, and ignore turns from the main track a short distance after. Continue to a hairpin near an area of ruins and a small burn crossing. 3 NM473580This area of ruins is the township of Ardmore. Most are little more than piles of rubble, but after a few more minutes you’ll pass more substantial ruins. This township once consisted of There make a sharp right turn and take a rising track traversing through the woodlands with good views out to sea. After just over 3km, this track descends towards a rough area of felled trees. 6 NM451574 The track, faint at this point, zig-zags downhill before picking up a clearer path. Pass through a gate to reach another track and follow it to meet the road at Sorne. At the road, turn right and follow it to the coffee shop at Glengorm Castle. 7 NM441572A path skirts around the N side of Glengorm Castle. At a path junction, take the short detour LQWRWKHĆHOGDKHDGWRYLVLWWKH Glengorm Standing Stones, then return to the path and continue NW, soon taking a left turn along a long, straight track through a boggy area. This leads to the NW peninsula, where there are several prominent craggy hilltops. 8 NM427577The path leads to Dun Ara, where traces RIDPHGLHYDOIRUWLĆHGZDOODURXQG the hilltop can be seen, as well as the remains of buildings. From here, retrace your steps back to the road and continue to Sorne. 9 NM444566At Sorne, do not return along the track you used to descend from the forest; instead, continue along the road, which undulates through moorland and forestry for 5km EDFNWRWKHĆUVWFDUSDUNDQGWKHQ another 2.5km to Tobermory.

Deuchary Hill Perthshire SCOTLAND ŏƆţƗĩĵ/ŏljţŏĵĜĬåŸ/ăěƆĘŅƚųŸ 3 Ascent ăljăĵxŏƆăƁüƋ BEAVERS are one of the most charismatic mammals in Britain, but they are also amongst the shiest. As nocturnal animals that spend a lot of time in the water or in their dams, which are made from woody debris in lakes and rivers, they are unlikely to be seen – unless you head out very early, and very quietly, with a pair of binoculars. It is a lot easier to nd evidence of beavers on the ground. Highland Perthshire is one of the best places in the country to spot beaver activity, and Dunkeld, with its wide variety of wooded and wetland terrain, is one of the best places in Perthshire. is modest hillwalk takes in forest paths, a loch frequented by beavers (Mill Dam), and a relatively low but prominent hill with excellent views over the surrounding landscapes. Although you are unlikely to see beavers during the daytime at Mill Dam, it isn’t hard to spot beaver-engineered habitat, including gnawed trees visible from the path. e walk’s loop returns via Lochan na Beinne. Alex Roddie goes looking for evidence of beavers in the wooded hills At the summit of Deuchary Hill Looking to Lochan na Beinne from the summit The steep approach to Deuchary Hill ‘Brackeneering’ on the way up April 2024 The Great Outdoors 81

Further information Maps: OS Explorer 379 (1:25k), OS Landranger 53 (1:50k) Transport: Dunkeld can be easily reached by bus or train from Perth or Inverness i Tourist information: dunkeldandbirnam.org.uk 82 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 14 16 12 400 200 0 1 2 3 4 5 7 6 8 footbridge over the Leddown Burn. Follow this path for a further 1km and cross the burn again. 5 NO036480Immediately after this burn crossing, a faint path climbs away left from WKHPDLQWUDFNåbVWHHSO\DQGRIWHQ PXGGLO\DWĆUVWWKURXJKELUFKDQG pine trees, heather and bracken. This zig-zags for the summit of Deuchary Hill. Once above the trees, the path’s direction is obvious, although in poor visibility watch out for several false summits. In places the path is steep and rocky, but with no real scrambling. 6 NO037485 The true summit of Deuchary Hill, at 511m, has a trig pillar and good views in all directions. To the NW, Ben Vrackie above Pitlochry is the closest prominent summit; N are The Mounth and southern Cairngorms. Take a moment to identify Lochan na Beinne a few hundred metres to the NW. The onward route heads in this direction, very steeply DWĆUVWGRZQDJUDVV\SDWKEHIRUH levelling out. Soon join a more distinct track that curves around (but does not descend to) the N shore of the lochan before following LWVRXWćRZGRZQKLOOWKURXJK woodland. A zig-zag leads in about 1km to a path junction. 7 NO025492Turn left on the prominent forestry track and follow it. The track undulates for about 1.3km before climbing into a :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Ƌų±ÏĩĬå±ÚĜĹčƋŅ±ĬĬƼϱųޱųĩ :×ckljƗăĊƑƑŠŅų%ƚĹĩåĬÚƋŅƵĹÏåĹƋųåš 1 NO025433 The track to Cally car park is reached on the A923 from Dunkeld in the direction of Loch of Lowes. Starting from the off-road parking area (or from the road if approaching from Dunkeld) continue north along the obvious track past a number of holiday cottages and mixed wooded and open areas. Shortly after passing Cally Loch, the path forks; keep going right through woodland towards Upper Hatton. After passing Upper Hatton buildings, where the track is bordered by forest to the left and open meadows to the right, cross a footbridge over a burn. 2 NO026452The track loops around Birkenburn (hidden in woodland) and then passes through an area of scrubby mixed woodland with more open views. Continue towards The Glack. 3 NO031462 Turn left at the entrance drive for The Glack and continue along a track to Mill Dam, a pleasant loch bordered by wet woodland. Here evidence of beavers can be found. Follow a signpost pointing right towards the Upper Path to Loch Ordie. 7KLVFURVVHVWKHORFKèVRXWćRZ before gently climbing through trees on its eastern bank, soon pulling away from the waters. 4 NO031472One kilometre after climbing away from the loch, reach a junction in open scrubby woodland just after crossing a narrow shallow glen. About 0.8km after descending from the highest point, return to the junction near Leddown Burn where you turned off to approach Deuchary Hill. 8 NO031472Continue back along the track, past Mill Dam and Cally Loch, to Cally car park and the start of the route.

Cauldcleuch Head round Southern Uplands SCOTLAND ŏŀţƑĩĵ/ŏƗĵĜĬåŸ/ƁĘŅƚųŸ 4 AscentîljăĵxƗƆĊljüƋ CAULDCLEUCH HEAD is a shallow dome of a hill whose only character is carved out by various grains and sikes (narrow gullies cut by rocky, fast-owing streams) lower down. In actual fact, it is a mountain – just peeping over the 2000-foot mark. at also makes it a Donald, which is possibly – if unfairly – its main attraction. If you only come here for the tick you may end up on a lacklustre line. is would be unfortunate, because this mountain keeps company withsome steep-sided and even pointy hills. is is a circular tour of those unheeded hills, and on it Cauldcleuch Head forms just part of the journey rather than the goal. ere are no people to scare o the fox. You should also watch out for the tranquil frog living amongst diverse owering plants at your feet. e going gets tougher the further you go, oen just when you’d like to look up at stunning, far-reaching surrounds. A carefree approach works best – walk at the pace of the land, and leave your ego o the moor. Ian Battersby takes a carefree approach amidst ‘unheeded hills’ Din Fell and Ewe Hill Red deer at Billhope Greatmoor Hill trig point and shelter Common frog at Langtae Hill April 2024 The Great Outdoors 83

Further information Maps: OS Explorer OL324 (1:25k) combined with OS Explorer OL331 (1:25k), OS Landranger 79 (1:50k) Transport: none to start i Tourist information: visitscotland.com/info/ services/jedburgh-icentre, 01835 863170 84 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 600 400 200 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 NT456007 Go through the gate, and with the ridge fence on your left follow the vague path E, soon turning SE down Windy Edge Ridge to reach the upper limits of a large pine plantation. Continue ESE into Windy Swire dip. Pass through the gap in an electric fence then climb Swire Knowe. Drop slightly, then follow the plantation fence NE to a gate at 470m. Continue NE past the trees and following the fence along Starcleuch Edge, where it turns (6(IRUWKHĆQDOPRIFOLPELQJWR reach the trig point and shelter at Greatmoor Hill on the other side of a fence junction, although there is no need to cross this fence. 5 NT490007 Head SW down to 550m with the fence on your left. Here the fence turns S. Duck under and electric fence at 530m and continue down by the ridge :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish roadside parking at ĜĬĬĘŅŞåØăĩĵƵåŸƋŅü BåųĵĜƋ±č屟ƋĬå :×c¥ĊĊăŀƁĊ 1 NY445974 Park between the road bridge over the stream and the house at Billhope. Head NW along the quiet lane past the house. The lane veers W past conifers on the right. Ignore a track into the trees. Immediately past the plantation there is a good green track on the right. 2 NY437977 Unfasten the electric fence using the insulated hook and proceed NW, climbing the track towards Tudhope Hill with the pine trees over on the right. The track bends left near the end of the trees. Take the right fork along a lesser track, which heads over to the plantation fence. At 400m leave the trees behind and climb alongside the fence heading N then NW to reach Tudhope Hill. Cross the fence to reach the trig point. 3 NY430991A second fence heads NE along the ridge with a minor path on its right-hand side. Follow this down into a dip and up to 550m, where the fence leads N to a fence junction at Millstone Edge (567m). Keeping the new fence on your left, follow it E over Langtae Hill (544m), then NE along Footman Hass, with Langtae Sike in a deep cleft on the right. The fence turns S around the head of /DQJWDH6LNHWRPDNHWKHĆQDO ascent of Cauldcleuch Head (619m) marked by a wooden gate and a rusty red steel post. fence. The path weaves through tussocks, getting lost through wetter patches here and there, but the fence is your guide down to around 410m. Now make your own way, heading SW through tussocks and peat hags towards Tongue Rig. There is a fence at 330m, which continues in the right direction passing a gate at 300m. Follow a good sheep track SW, ducking under another electric fence. Now the ridge becomes more pronounced. Continue down Tongue Rig on the sheep track, which grows into a track, dropping to a gate by Braidley Burn. 6 NY473978 Head S, crossing Tongue Burn to meet a stony track at a ford in Braidley Burn. Follow this main track S up a short rise, then SE through two gates to Old Braidlie. Drop S down to a gate at Hermitage Water. Turn right, then left over a bridge to meet the road. Turn right up this lonely lane, with superb views of surrounding hills crowding the valley along its couple of miles to return to Billhope.

Yeavering Bell Northumberland National Park ENGLAND ŏŀţƑĩĵ/ŏƗĵĜĬåŸ/ƆěƆţăĘŅƚųŸ 5 AscentƁîĊĵxƗăƁljüƋ THERE ARE FEW PLACES in the UK where you can still see feral goats; one of these is the Cheviot Hills. Once domesticated, these long-horned, primitive goats have been wandering the hills for millennia and now live totally wild. ey are descendants of the herds reared by early Neolithic people, although when they actually escaped from farms is unclear. ere are thought to be between 300 and 500 individuals le, and there’s a good chance of spotting some on this walk along the northern edge of the Cheviots taking in Yeavering Bell and Humbleton Hill. e word ‘Yeavering’, in fact, means ‘hill of the goat’. Yeavering Bell’s also the site of the largest Iron Age fort in the region, so even if the goats are proving elusive you’re guaranteed an encounter with the past. e stone ramparts, which can still be seen, would once have been almost three metres high and just as thick. e summit, like much of the rest of the walk and the fort-topped Humbleton Hill too, enjoys the big skies and far-reaching views for which this corner of England is renowned. Vivienne Crow goes in search of the Cheviots’ feral goats Far-reaching views into southern Scotland from St Cuthbert’s Way An idyllic gap in the hills at Gleadscleugh Looking towards The Cheviot Feral goat grazing in the Cheviot Hills April 2024 The Great Outdoors 85

Further information Maps: OS Explorer OL16 (1:25k), OS Landranger 75 (1:50k), Harvey Superwalker Cheviot Hills (1:25k) Transport: Wooler is served by bus routes 266, 464, 473 and 710 i Tourist information: The Cheviot Centre, Padgepool Place, Wooler: 01668 282123, wooler.tic@ northumberland.gov.uk 86 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 300 200 100 0 1 2 3 4 7 8 5 6 right. Keep straight ahead at the fence corner. The next gate leads onto heather moorland. The path curves around the south side of Gains Law and approaches a gate. Don’t go through; instead, keep to the path. Then, in about 80m, bear OHIWDWDĆQJHUSRVWåDZD\IURPWKH fence. Eventually, there’s a wall on the right. Follow this for 400m and then go through a gate in the wall. The path follows the line of the wall until it meets a waymarked crossing. Turn right. Keep left on reaching damp ground. Turn right along a stony track, which soon goes through a gate. 4 NT934277 Nearing a second gate, leave the track by continuing uphill beside a fence. About 100m beyond the track, the path swings away from the fence and climbs to go through a gate. After this, it heads roughly QRUWKZHVWWKURXJKWKHKHDWKHUå still following St Cuthbert’s Way signs. Bear right along a clear track. 5 NT923286About 180m beyond the next gate and :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Ĭ±ÏĩƚĬĬFĹĹØ œŅŅĬåų :×c‰ŀŀŏƗîlj 1 NT991280 With your back to the Black Bull, turn left along the main road for 70m and then turn right up Ramsey’s Lane. In another 650m, take the rough track rising left, soon an enclosed path. Go through a small gate and bear right. At a fork next to old fenceposts, go left. Keep to the clearest route as the path climbs. A few metres back from a gate onto forestry land, fork left, soon entering the felled forest via a higher gate. Keep left across the highest ground, then descend through trees. 2 NT978267Leave the forest via a gate and walk with a fence on your left. Turn sharp right at a waymarked junction. After the next gate, follow the trail to a minor road. Turn right and immediately left into a parking area. Cross a small bridge to the left of information boards and, in 50m, take the waymarked St Cuthbert’s Way climbing left. Beyond the gate on the woodland edge, keep straight ahead. 3 NT972275 Soon after the next gate, bear left through a second gate and immediately fork stile, turn right at a crossing of paths, parting company with the St Cuthbert’s Way. Cross a small burn and then climb Yeavering Bell. Pass through a gap in the ramparts to reach the eastern summit. Having explored, drop back through the ramparts. Ignoring the path you came up on, bear left and quickly left again. 6 NT932290Beyond a ladder stile, the trail weaves a route roughly eastward, over White Law and eventually descending to a track at Gleadscleugh. 7 NT950288 Go left here. Before the cottage, turn right to cross Akeld Burn. Just before the next gate, climb the slope on the right. Follow the wall uphill until it becomes a fence. Go through the gate on the left and walk beside a wall. The bridleway later comes away from the wall and climbs slightly. After a gate and ODGGHUVWLOHZDONHDVWåEHVLGHD ZDOODWĆUVW$ERXWPEH\RQG the gate and stile at the bottom of the drop, fork right. 8 NT965287 Reaching a path junction at the base of Humbleton Hill, turn right. In another 600m, go left at a waymarked split. A clear path crosses a stile and climbs to the summit. Descend south-east. After a wall gate, turn left along a track/lane. Take the next lane on the right, through Humbleton. When this ends, turn right and then right again at the T-junction in Wooler to return to the start.

Y Garn & Foel-goch via Devil’s Kitchen Eryri/Snowdonia WALES ŏŏţŏĩĵ/ƁĵĜĬåŸ/ăĘŅƚųŸ 6 AscentŀĊƁĵxƑŏljƁüƋ IT’S QUITE HARD to nd quiet corners of Eryri, especially above Ogwen Valley, which boasts such mighty mini-mountains as Tryfan, the Carneddau and the two popular Glyders (Fawr and Fach). But if you stick to the west, you may just nd some peace and quiet – as long as you don’t mind sharing it with the wild ponies who roam these high places. Y Garn may only be the tenthhighest peak in Wales, but it certainly packs a punchy ascent should you choose to face the Devil’s Kitchen (Twll Du in Welsh), so called for the mists that can sometimes be seen rising up from Llyn Idwal through its rocky chimney. When that happens, legend says, the Devil is cooking. Whilst you’re up there, you are rewarded with panoramic views across to the Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) massif and over Llyn Ogwen towards the ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen in the east. You can extend the trip with ne ridgewalking along to the grassy plains of Foel-goch and take a dip in the cooling water of Llyn Idwal before you head back to reality. Francesca Donovan visits the Devil’s Kitchen – and Eryri’s ponies A much-photographed stile at the top of the Devil’s Kitchen with Pen yr Ole Wen in the distance The Y Garn summit shelter, Yr Wyddfa clear in the distance The Devil’s Kitchen Wild ponies graze in front of Elidir Fawr April 2024 The Great Outdoors 87

Further information Maps: OS Explorer OL17 (1:25k) and Landranger 115 (1:50k) Transport: Traws Cymru T10 bus to Ogwen i Tourist information: Betws-y-Coed TIC, snowdonia.gov.wales, 01690 710426 88 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 1 2 3 4 5 6 11 7 8 9 10 800 600 400 200 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 From here you can clearly see the path heading to Y Garn’s summit. Follow it all the way up to the summit shelter (974m), which you’ll reach in 800m. From here, you can enjoy view to the south-west of Crib Goch and Yr Wyddfa and north-east to the Carneddau. 4 SH631596From the summit, head N on this classically breathtaking Eryri ridgewalk, which gives views of the entire Ogwen Valley over two vast lakes and towards the lumpy top of mighty Tryfan for the next 1km. 5 SH627604Having thus far stuck to the L of the fence, here, you must cross the fencing via a relatively rickety and unassuming stile to walk on the R of the fence. It’s easy to miss, so keep an eye out. Continue for a further 1km to reach the quiet summit of Foel-goch (831m). 6 SH628612 Even for Eryri, this summit is not often visited in comparison to others of similar heights due to its plain, grassy plateau. But it offers fantastic views along the undulating ridge towards Carnedd y Filiast (a further 2km away) and down to :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish XĬƼĹkčƵåĹϱųޱųĩ :ׄBƆĊŀƆljĊ 1 SH649604 Pass Idwal Cottage and leave the car park heading SE on the clearly signposted pathway following the Cambrian Way. In 200m, cross over the wooden footbridge. On your R, you’ll pass a babbling and crystal-clear waterfall, a taste of what is to come. Continue along the paved path for a further 200m then veer off the Cambrian Way onto the path heading SW. Follow this for 600m until you reach Llyn Idwal, looked down upon by Glyder Fawr. 2 SH647598Cross a second footbridge and skirt the northern bank of Llyn Idwal. You’ll return again on this almost-circular route, but do take a moment to stop and appreciate the landscape before the ascent begins. Follow the rocky but clear and well-kept path for a further kilometre. Here, you’ll get \RXUĆUVWJOLPSVHRIWKH'HYLOèV Kitchen climb to come. For this, you’ll need to use hands on occasion to manoeuvre through the boulder ĆHOG,WLVSXQFWXDWHGZLWKVWHSVEXW sure-footedness and good walking footwear are required. Navigation can be tricky. For 300m, continue SW. At approximately 530m, take a sharp turn SE around a large boulder, quickly turning back onto the SW bearing and continuing along it for 200m until the pathway becomes steps heading SE once again. In 200m take the stile over the wall, and a EUHDWKåWKHGLIĆFXOWDVFHQWLVRYHU Continue SW for a further 300m towards Llyn y Cwn. 3 SH638585 At Llyn y Cwn take the path heading WNW, skirting the water for 300m. Conwy Bay. You may have to share them with the wild ponies who graze here. When you’re ready, retrace your footsteps off the summit for 1.7km. 7 SH631597 Here, begin the GHVFHQWKHDGLQJĆUVW11( and then quickly NE before it veers E above Pinnacle Crag. The path is lofty and drops sharply down into Cwm Cywion to your L but it is clear, easy to navigate and only offers a few rocky sections in terms of challenge underfoot. After 900m the path heads S for 50m before continuing on an ENE descent in the shadow of Castell y Geifr. Continue for a further 2km to where Llyn Idwal and a refreshing dip await. 8 SH645599From here, retrace your footsteps all the way – 1.2km to be exact – back to the Llyn Ogwen car park. Here, you can grab some well-earned refreshments that weren’t cooked XSLQWKH'HYLOèV.LWFKHQ

Colourful heathland beside Graigddu-Isaf Forest. .jpg Rhinog Fawr & Craig Ddrwg Rhinogydd WALES ŏŀţƑĩĵ/ŏƗĵĜĬåŸ/ƁěŀĘŅƚųŸ 7 AscentŏŏƑljĵxƑƁljƆüƋ THE RHINOGS are a remote, rugged mountain range with an abundance of wildlife. Feral goats and peregrine falcons nd sanctuary in a labyrinth of terraced crags and boulder-strewn slopes. ere are no easy approaches into these mountains. is 12-mile loop requires strong tness and condence on rocky terrain. From the coniferous forest of Graigddu to the summit of Rhinog Fawr, you’ll explore plant-rich, acid grassland and heathland where herds of wild goats nibble at the ora. You’ll probably smell them long before you spot them! ey descended from goats introduced from the Middle East by Neolithic farmers, and their ability to graze in the harshest of environments means they still thrive today. e agstones of a medieval packhorse trail, ‘e Roman Steps’ lead into woodland, reaching Llyn Cwm Bychan. e lake’s south shore is an idyllic location for bird spotting. A nal o-trail ascent of Craig Ddrwg demands careful navigation via splintered blocks and terraced slabs, but the views are worth it. Here, solitude is guaranteed. 5LFK+DUWĆHOG sniffs out solitude and the wild goats of the Rhinogydd Descending towards Llyn Du from Rhinog Fawr Looking to Tremadog Bay from Craig Ddrwg’s summit Feral goats grazing on the southern slopes of Rhinog Fawr The summit of Rhinog Fawr with the Llyn Peninsula beyond April 2024 The Great Outdoors 89

Further information Maps: OS Landranger 124 (1:50k) and OS Explorer OL18 (1:25k) Transport: none to start i Tourist information: snowdonia.gov.wales 90 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 600 400 200 0 1 2 3 4 7 5 8 6 9 600m, the path veers northwards into a narrow pass to MRLQWKHDQFLHQWćDJVWRQHV of The Roman Steps. 5 SH660299Follow the historic drovers’ trail over Bwlch Tyddiad, from which it descends beside a small stream for 1.3km to enter woodland. Wind down through the woods for 500m before emerging amongst drystone walls and meadows. Llyn Cwm Bychan can be seen to the left. After another 400m, the path reaches the idyllic Cwm Bychan farm and campsite beside WKHODNH%ULHć\MRLQWKHURDGDWWKH campsite entrance and follow the shore for 400m. 6 SH642314Just before a lay-by, a footpath branches off right from the road beside a drystone wall. Follow this path to ascend NE, crossing a series of drystone walls for 700m to reach :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Coed Graigddu car park :ׄBƆîĊƑljŏ 1 SH684301 From the car park, take the left track heading SW for 170m. Where the track veers left, fork right onto a footpath. Follow this boggy path for 200m until it emerges onto another track beside Graigddu-isaf farm. Continue south along the track for 300m and take the right fork, following signposts for Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy. Stay on this track for 1.3km as it ascends SW through coniferous forest to reach a bridge over the Afon Gau. 2 SH673287Instead of crossing the bridge, fork right onto a footpath, which climbs beside the stream to emerge from Graigddu Forest. The craggy slopes of Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr loom above. Follow the path for 700m to reach the col of Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy. 3 SH664282 Take the minor path just beyond a drystone wall to ascend northwards onto the eastern slopes of Rhinog Fawr. After 800m, the rough path veers west and steepens, eventually leading to the summit trig point. This quiet and remote side of the mountain is a favourite spot for herds of feral goats. 4 SH657290From the trig point, be careful to descend on the NW side of Rhinog Fawr. At an elevation of 620m, join a rocky path heading NE. It descends steeply beneath crags for 500m directly towards the isolated shores of Llyn Du. From the eastern tip of the lake, descend NE on a rough path. After open hillside. After another 400m, the path reaches a small stream beside a ruined sheepfold. 7 SH650320 Cross the stream and then leave the path on the left (NW) to follow the stream uphill. There is no path and the heather is thick, but after 170m a ruined drystone wall is reached and the slope becomes grassier and less steep. Craig Ddrwg rises above, its slopes broken by bands of mini crags. Follow a grassy slope northwards to reach another ruined drystone wall after 400m. Ascend NE, weaving between minor rocky outcrops on slabs and grassy terraces to reach the ćDWVXPPLWRI&UDLJ'GUZJ 8 SH653327 Follow the broad ridge NE on a faint path, which descends into a narrow col after 300m. Descend easily on the southern side of the col to arrive back on the main path at Bwlch Gwylim. Descend along this path for 3.5km over increasingly boggy moorland beside a stream to arrive at Wern-fach farm. 9 SH681332From the farm, take the right fork and follow the path for 2km as it ascends SW across moorland to reach a broad, grassy shoulder. Continue along the path as it descends into coniferous forest for 300m, passing ruined buildings before emerging onto a track. Follow this track south through the forest for 1.5km, and fork left at WKHĆQDO7MXQFWLRQWRDUULYHEDFN at Graigddu car park.

Abereiddy to Porthgain (and back) Pembrokeshire WALES Ɔţîĩĵ/ĊţƗĵĜĬåŸ/ƑĘŅƚųŸ 8 AscentŏƆƁĵxăĊîüƋ THIS WALK is so short, with such modest ascent, that its claims to wildness might be called into question by anyone who thinks such a quality is expressible in purely numerical terms. But when the Atlantic hurls itself against the clis, it’s as thrilling as anywhere in the UK. Even on a clement day, the sight of birds soaring the updraughts, or the sound of mother seals singing lullabies to their autumn pups, cannot fail to stir the spirits. e Pembrokeshire coast is one of the jewels of the Atlantic coast, with glorious clis, hidden beaches and romantic coves. Vastly more people make their way to Cornwall, so Pembrokeshire is oen quieter than one might suppose given the quality of the scenery. e coastal strip is protected by National Park status and a wellwaymarked 300km national trail, the Llwybr Arfordir Sir Benfro, hugs the cli ops. e quality of the path means directions are scarcely needed. Keep the sea on your le on the way out, and on the right on your return! Norman Hadley strolls along the South Walian coast to visit seal pups The Blue Lagoon Swallows soaring above the Porthgain cliffs Don’t get too close to the seal pups Gorse-topped cliffs lead the eye to Abereiddi Tower and St Davids Head April 2024 The Great Outdoors 91

Further information Maps: OS Landranger 157 (1:25k), Harvey National Trails Map Pembrokeshire Coast Path (1:40k) Transport: Rail services will get you as far as Haverfordwest. In the past, service 404 has run to Porthgain. This, however, did not run in early Summer 2023. Check beforehand i Tourist information: visitpembrokeshire.com 01437 720392 92 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 1 2 3 5 4 6 7 40 20 0 1 2 3 4 5 them well alone, especially if you have a dog in tow. Also make sure you don’t get separated from the staircase foot by incoming tides. After regaining the clifftop, continue round the bays of Porth Egr, Porth Dwfn and Porth Ffynnon. The scenery becomes steadily more postindustrial, with tramways and other curios, but there is still great beauty. 4 SM811326There’s a three-way split in the path and they all lead to Porthgain – which translates into English as ‘Chisel Port’, representing the quarrying that once took place here – so there’s no great navigational pressure. For preference, take the leftmost path to hug the clifftops until you see the twin pillars demarking the entrance to Porthgain’s narrow harbour. Descend a set of steps to the quayside then follow this under the :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Abereiddy beach :ׄaƁŀƁƑŏƑ 1 SM797313Start from the beach. There’s a charge for parking but they take plastic. Keep an eye on tidelines and timings so you don’t come back to a footwell full of saltwater and mackerel. Cross the small stream to the north. There are public toilets in the small building to your right. Turn left and head west along the promontory to the intriguing Blue Lagoon. This is an old quarry that was blasted through to the sea over a century ago. In all but the dullest light, the colours here are extraordinary. There are usually a few plucky souls jumping off the side walls into its immense blue eye. (Please note: the Blue Lagoon will close from Saturday 21 September - Saturday 2 November 2024 to protect breeding seals, and does so annually.) 2 SM793314Double back then veer left to follow the cliffs over Carn Lywd and follow WKHPDJQLĆFHQWVZHHSRIWKHED\ from east to north around Traeth Llyfn. In spring, this stretch is a riot of gorse, bladder campion, Scilla verna (spring quill) and sea pink. In autumn, you’ll spot seal pups down on the sands and hear the unearthly sound of the mothers in the bay singing to their offspring for reassurance. 3 SM803320Detour down the steps to the beach to explore or swim. If there are seal pups, leave imposing brickworks wall. From below this looks like some mythical abandoned city: perhaps Ancient Valyria. Incidentally, the coastal hamlet was used as a location for WKHĆOPLQJRIWKHFRPHG\Their Finest (2017) starring Gemma Arterton and Bill Nighy and has become somewhat of a tourist trap. Porthgain is tiny but there is a lot to do here. Enjoy a drink or a meal at The Sloop Inn, a charming pub dating back to the 18th Century. Or perhaps you could SLFNXSVRPHĆVKDQGFKLSVDW The Shed. There are also ice creams and two art galleries where you can while away the hours before making your journey back. 5 SM816324 You could return by inland paths to make a circular walk, but why would you? There’s no shame in returning by the same route. For starters, you’re now facing westward and it’s likely, if you’ve spent any time in Porthgain, that the tide has risen or fallen to change the seaward prospect. Maybe there’ll be some new wildlife encounter that you missed on the outward leg. So, retrace your footsteps back along the coast.

St Martha’s Hill & Silent Pool Surrey Hills ENGLAND ŏăţƑĩĵ/ŀţăĵĜĬåŸ/ĊţăĘŅƚųŸ 9 AscentĊŏljĵxŏƑĊăüƋ ONLY A SHORT DISTANCE from Guildford town centre, the wooded hills are criss-crossed with a network of paths that provide endless routes for walking through the changing seasons. In the summer the lush woodland is myriad shades of green, and autumn dresses the trees in spectacular colours. e crisp winter days are perfect to enjoy the ne views and in spring spectacular bluebells carpet the forest oor. is circular route starts from Chilworth and takes you rst through the Tillingbourne Valley with its remains of gunpowder mills. e route next follows a section of the long-distance North Downs Way (NDW) to St Martha’s Hill, with a church accessible only by foot. It then continues to Newlands Corner, which oers up some ne views of the rolling Surrey Hills. Leaving the NDW the route drops down to the mysterious Silent Pool, where you can treat yourself to some local gin. You then walk alongside elds and through charming woodland before returning to Chilworth. Nike Werstroh goes on a bluebell hunt in the Surrey Hills The North Downs Way leaving Newlands Corner Row of millstones Views from St 0DUWKDèV+LOOb Bluebells in Chantry Wood April 2024 The Great Outdoors 93

Further information Maps: OS Explorer 145 (1:25k) Transport: Chilworth station is on the North Downs Line, which is served by regular trains operated by the Great Western Railway i Tourist information: Guildford Tourist Information Centre (01483 444333) visitsurrey.com 94 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 1 8 1 0 12 14 6 150 100 50 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 4 TQ020483 Emerge onto Halfpenny Lane, go left and then keep right uphill by a cottage. Follow the NDW climbing through woodland to St Martha’s Hill. There has been a church on this hill since the 12th Century but it fell into ruins after an accidental explosion in the nearby gunpowder mills in 1745. Using some of the original features, it was only rebuilt in 1848-50. Skirt around the church building to enjoy the panoramic views and then take the sandy path that drops down to a junction near a World War Two pillbox. Pillboxes were built as part of the defence line designed to protect London in the 1940s, and if you are walking in the Surrey Hills you will sooner or later stumble upon one of these concrete constructions. Continue left on the NDW to Keepers Cottage, and IROORZWKHIRRWSDWKWKDWĆUVWUXQV parallel to the road. Then, crossing the road, follow the NDW through woods and then on the grassy hillside to Newlands Corner. 5 TQ044492 Cross the A25 road and continue on the :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish ĘĜĬƵŅųƋĘ train station :׉}ljƑŏĊƁƗ 1 TQ031472 From Chilworth train station take Sampleoak Lane, go left on Dorking Road and just after the school turn right on Vera’s Path. When you reach the broad path by the River Tillingbourne, keep left. Emerge onto Blacksmith Lane, turn right, and at the sharp right bend of the lane take the path on the left. 2 TQ021478Reach a tarmac lane, go left and then take the footpath through a gate. Go left on the public bridleway alongside WKHĆHOG3DVVDJURXSRIKRXVHVDQG then, turning right, walk across the ĆHOGWR&KDQWU\:RRG*RWKURXJK a kissing gate, and shortly after this keep left through another kissing gate and ascend the steps. 3 TQ009481On reaching a wide path turn right and at the junction take the well-trodden path on the right, passing Cathedral View viewpoint. Shortly after the viewpoint go right on a forest path. Keep parallel to a meadow, carry straight on at the big path junction and meet the North Downs Way by the map board. NDW through woodland for about 2km to a path junction with a wooden signpost. Go right downhill on the Fox Way. Descend steeply, and just before you reach the buildings of Albury Vineyard take the path on the left leading down to Silent Pool with the distillery located next to the pond. 6 TQ060485From Silent Pool head towards the road. Go left alongside the A25 and turn right on Sherbourne Road. Just before a church go right through a kissing gate and walk across a JUD]LQJĆHOG$IWHUWKH6DQG3LW keep left on a track, pass a cottage DQGWKHQZDONDORQJVLGHĆHOGVZLWK views of the North Downs ridge. After a group of cottages cross a track and continue on the Deer Trail. Ascend through the woods, soon with some views towards ĆHOGV$WWKHSDWKMXQFWLRQFDUU\ straight on to reach and cross Guildford Lane. 7 TQ035484Follow the Deer Trail to the big path junction by the pillbox. Go left on the Downs Link and descend through woodland and then alongside DĆHOG-RLQLQJDWUDFNIROORZ the Downs Link to the left. Cross the River Tillingbourne and take the second path on the right. Follow the Chilworth gunpowder mills heritage trail, passing some ruins. Until the mid-19th Century gunpowder was the only explosive available for military use, and for nearly 300 years it was manufactured in the valley. Take Vera’s Path on the left back to Chilworth.

High Peak & Otter Estuary Nature Reserve Jurassic Coast ENGLAND ŏŀĩĵ/ŏŏţîĵĜĬåŸ/ƆĘŅƚųŸ 10 AscentăƆƗĵxŏîĊĊüƋ SITUATED at the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site and surrounded by countryside designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – or National Landscape, to use the new name – the attractive Regency town of Sidmouth makes an ideal base for walkers. ‘A town caught still in a timeless charm’, as the Poet Laureate described it. e striking red sandstone clis that ank the town date back 230 million years to the Triassic period and were formed in deserts, hence the colour. e South West Coast Path can be followed in either direction, providing excellent walking and stunning views. Heading south-west along it leads to Ladram Bay, renowned for its dramatic sea stacks, and thence to the mouth of the River Otter. Over the past three years a major restoration project has taken place in the Lower Otter, restoring the valley to more natural conditions, and adding valuable estuary habitat. e nature reserve here supports a wide variety of birdlife, whilst along the river heading inland towards Otterton beavers may be spotted. Fiona Barltrop enjoys birdlife and beaver sightings in East Devon Ladram Bay sea stacks The view from High Peak trig point, near waypoint 2 Little egret at Otter Estuary Nature Reserve Otter Estuary April 2024 The Great Outdoors 95

Further information Maps: OS Explorer 115 (1:25k); Landranger 192 (1:50k) Transport: Choice of bus services including Stagecoach 9 Exeter to Honiton via Sidmouth and Stagecoach 157 Exmouth to Sidmouth via Otterton i Tourist information: Sidmouth Information Centre (01395 516441), visitsouthdevon.co.uk 96 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Always take a map and compass with you.©Crown copyright 2024 Ordnance Survey. Media 051/19 ROUTE 0 km 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 150 100 50 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Built in 1940 it was used by aircraft ćRZQIURP([HWHUWRWHVWZHDSRQV on targets in the bay, the post serving as an observation point. The building is now used as holiday accommodation. The coast path continues very gently down to Otterton Point. Just after rounding WKHSRLQWWKHUHLVDĆQHYLHZDFURVV the Otter Estuary (Nature Reserve), Budleigh Salterton beyond. Now heading north, continue to join a lane bearing left across a bridge over the river. 4 SY075830 Turn left for an out-and-back detour, following the coast path past the new wildlife viewing platforms – part of the Lower Otter Restoration Project, as is the new footbridge :ų±ÚĜåĹƋŞųŅĀĬåMetres above sea level Start/finish Manor Road ĬŅĹčŸƋ±Ƽϱųޱųĩ:ׄ¥ŏƗljîƁlj 1 SY120870 From the car park entrance turn left to its southern end and descend steps to the road. There’s an entrance to Connaught Gardens across the road to the left. Situated high on the cliff VLGHZLWKĆQHYLHZVWKH\ZHUH opened in 1934 by HRH the Duke of Connaught, Queen Victoria’s third son, and are worth a wander round. $ćLJKWRIVWHSV-DFREèV/DGGHU descends to the seafront from them. Turn right alongside the road, soon continuing on grass beside it, following the coast path uphill. 7KHUHèVDĆQHYLHZEDFNRYHU Sidmouth with the contrasting sandstone cliffs on the far side and the chalk cliffs of Beer Head in the distance. The old road is followed for a short distance, then the road LWVHOIUHMRLQHGEULHć\VRRQOHIWYLD steps on the left leading up through woodland and out into the open of the National Trust’s Peak Hill. 2 SY102860 Having descended to Wingate Bottom, the coast path heads round the foot of High Peak, but a detour (rough path and a short steep climb) to the trig point DWWKHWRSIRUWKHĆQHYLHZVLV recommended. Approaching Ladram Bay, the huge caravan park is quite an eyesore (walkers, however, are welcome at Pebbles restaurant) but the view of the striking sea stacks and coastline is duly impressive. 3 SY097852 Beyond Ladram Bay the coast path heads gently up the grassy slope – turn round IRUDĆQHYLHZDORQJWKHFRDVWWR 6LGPRXWK&RQWLQXHDORQJWKHĆHOG edge path to the World War Two Brandy Head Observation Hut. further on. Retrace steps from there and continue along the west bank of the River Otter, a lovely stretch. It’s along here that you may spot beavers if you’re lucky – and quiet! Early evenings between May and September offer the best chance of seeing them. Following a successful trial led by the Devon Wildlife Trust, permission was granted for the beavers to remain. 5 SY079853 At the road bridge, if you want to visit Otterton, turn right across it. Just beyond is the entrance to Otterton Mill (historic working watermill, bakery, café-restaurant, local food shop, gift and craft shop and art gallery) on the right and then the pub on the left. If preferred, you can rejoin the main route by continuing up the road, forking right along Bell Street and continuing along Ladram Road to Sea View Farm. Omitting Otterton, carry on along the riverbank path to a footbridge. 6 SY084860 Cross the footbridge and follow the path waymarked ‘County Road’, which heads uphill, continuing as a track leading to a lane. Across it diagonally right, follow the hedged track, which a little further along swings round to the right. Keep ahead at a junction and turn left at the lane to Sea View Farm. 7 SY094856 Continue past the farm and follow the track (Bar’s Lane), keeping ahead at a junction, to rejoin the coast path just north of High Peak. Retrace your outward steps.

Photos: Emma Schroeder 98 The Great Outdoors April 2024 Coastscript N O T E S F R O M THE EDGE Zennor Head, Cornwall Druridge Bay, Northumberland Who needs a brolly when you have a horse mushroom? ’Shroom with a view ONE OF THE MOST REWARDING aspects of spending time in nature is the opportunity to cultivate a diverse and meaningful collection. Some people bag every Munro, hunt fossils or go geocaching. For me it was much simpler. I started collecting stones, sea glass, colourful shells and pieces of seaZRUQSRWWHU\RIQRVLJQLĆFDQWYDOXHRULQWHUHVWWR anybody but myself – just like a toddler unleashed RQWKHEHDFKIRUWKHĆUVWWLPH0\LQQHUFKLOGQHYHU left; she just got a bit taller and had to get a job before deciding she was much happier bimbling around beaches and collecting stones. (YHU\VWRQHZDVVLJQLĆFDQWWRPHDQG,IRXQGD simple joy in the world’s subtle, often unnoticed, details. They became my personal companions, and each represented a unique chapter in my trek. Eventually I realised I was quite literally weighing myself down with rocks whilst debating the weight of a few spare tent pegs. Sisyphus was doomed to roll a rock up a hill for eternity. Yet here I was encumbering myself with an-ever increasing volume of rocks of my own free will. So I opted for photo-based collections: less meaningful, yet impressive in their pointlessness. I took a photo of every single cliff warning sign in order WRZRUNRXWZKLFKćDLOLQJVWLFNĆJXUHPRVWDFFXUDWHO\ portrayed the danger of the cliff tops. I also took a photo of every anti-seagull poster in seaside towns. I don’t know why, but once I started I couldn’t stop. My favourite collections were edible. “I’m going to get into mushroom picking,” I announced to the bothy one day before pottering off up the path. I gathered a few bright orange mushrooms whilst leaving plenty behind. My companions told me I’d hit the mushroom motherlode, explaining restaurants would pay money for these. I dusted the dirt off as best as I could with my paintbrush, and cooked them in a spray-bottle of garlicinfused oil, sprinkled with a sachet of salt and pepper. (I also collect salt, pepper, and sugar sachets from pubs and cafés.) I felt incredible satisfaction as I ate my mushrooms from my little mess tin. I was hooked on mushrooms. They’re not so much fun-guys as they are fun-girls and all 17,000 sexes in between (give or take). They’re the largest lifeforms on Earth. Vast networks of mycelium weave underground, creating a symbiotic relationship with the trees and plants, sharing nutrients, and warning of pests and diseases. Best of all, you can eat (some of) them. You have to be careful though. Pick the right one and you have a tasty dinner. Pick the wrong one and you’re dead. Pick another and you will be transported to another dimension, which may or may not be the desired outcome of your stroganoff. Cinnamon jellybaby, lemon disco and wrinkled peach are not edible despite how tasty they sound. Crampballs, hairy earthtongue, oilslick brittleleg and rancid greyling sound disgusting. Also inedible. Mushroom books will tell you the bay bolete you found is both edible and “usually free of maggots”. 2QP\ZDONĆHOGPXVKURRPVSDUDVROPXVKURRPV St George’s mushrooms and horse mushrooms livened up dinnertime. Others I was less sure about – never PXQFKRQDKXQFK,RQFHWULHGWRĆWDJLDQWSDUDVRO mushroom into my bag but struggled to make space. “There’s not mush-room in here,” I chortled to myself. Sometimes, it can be fascinating to shift your gaze downward and appreciate the often-overlooked tiny marvels underfoot. Just make sure you’re careful RQWKHFOLIISDWKVå\RXGRQèWZDQWWREHFRPHDćDLOLQJ VWLFNĆJXUH Emma Schroeder collected more than mma Schroeder just memories on her big coastal walk “Sisyphus was doomed to roll a rock up a hill for eternity...”