(Burma) Myanmar PDF ebook Edition 13th Edition Release Date Jul 2017 Pages 448 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here PDF © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. % Telephone number h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection E English-language menu c Family-friendly # Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: How to use this book 1Sights rBeaches 2 Activities CCourses TTours zFestivals & Events 4Sleeping 5Eating 6 Drinking 3Entertainment 7 Shopping 8Information & Transport 4 easy-to-use sections PLAN YOUR TRIP Your planning tool kit Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. UNDERSTAND Get more from your trip Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see. SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information for a smooth trip.
Myanmar (Burma) Simon Richmond, David Eimer, Adam Karlin, Nick Ray, Regis St Louis ^# Northern Myanmar p271 Mandalay & Around Western Myanmar p307 Bagan & Central Myanmar Eastern Myanmar p196 Southwestern Myanmar Southeastern Myanmar p105 p234 p141 p86 ^#Yangon p34 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Myanmar . . . 4 Myanmar Map . . . . . . . . . . 6 Myanmar’s Top 10........8 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 14 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 16 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Month by Month . . . . . . . 19 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Before You Go . . . . . . . . . 23 Regions at a Glance . . . . 30 YANGON . . . . . . . . . . 34 SOUTHWESTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . . 86 Thanlyin & Kyauktan . . . . . 87 Bago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Pathein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Chaung Tha Beach . . . . . . 99 Ngwe Saung Beach . . . . . 102 SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . 105 Mon State . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) . . . . . . . . . . 107 Mawlamyine . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Around Mawlamyine . . . . 116 Ye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Kayin State . . . . . . . . . . 121 Hpa-an . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Around Hpa-an . . . . . . . . . 124 Myawaddy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Tanintharyi Region . . . . 127 Dawei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Myeik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Kawthoung . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR . . . . . . . . 141 Yangon–Mandalay Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Taungoo (Toungoo) . . . . . 143 Nay Pyi Taw . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Meiktila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Yangon–Bagan Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Pyay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra) . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Magwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Bagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Nyaung U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Myinkaba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 New Bagan (Bagan Myothit) . . . . . . . . 167 Around Bagan . . . . . . . . 172 ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP CHANTAL DE BRUIJNE / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHWE YAUNGHWE KYAUNG P197, NYAUNGSHWE 2P2PLAY / SHUTTERSTOCK © STREET FOOD AT BOGYOKE AUNG SAN MARKET P54, YANGON
Contents Mt Popa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Salay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Pakokku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Monywa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Around Monywa . . . . . . . . 178 TEMPLES OF BAGAN . . . . . . . . 180 Old Bagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 North Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Central Plain . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Myinkaba Area . . . . . . . . . 191 New Bagan Area . . . . . . . . 193 South Plain . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Nyaung U Area . . . . . . . . . 195 EASTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . 196 Inle Lake & Around.... 197 Nyaungshwe . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Inle Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Taunggyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Pindaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Kalaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Thazi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Kyaingtong & Border Areas . . . . . . . . . 223 Kyaingtong (Kengtung) . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Mong La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Tachileik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Kayah State . . . . . . . . . . 229 Loikaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 MANDALAY & AROUND . . . . . . . . 234 Mandalay . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Around Mandalay . . . . 260 Amarapura............. 261 Inwa (Ava) . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Sagaing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Mingun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Paleik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 NORTHERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . 271 Mandalay to Lashio . . . 273 Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Pyin Oo Lwin to Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Kyaukme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Hsipaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Lashio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Mogok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Upper Ayeyarwady . . . . 291 Myitkyina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Indawgyi Lake . . . . . . . . . 296 Bhamo (Banmaw) . . . . . 297 Shwegu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Katha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Kyaukmyaung . . . . . . . . . . 301 Shwebo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 The Far North . . . . . . . 304 Putao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 WESTERN MYANMAR . . . . . . . . 307 Rakhine State . . . . . . . 309 Ngapali Beach . . . . . . . . . 309 Kan Thar Ya Beach . . . . . . 313 Sittwe (Aykab) . . . . . . . . . 314 Mrauk U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Around Mrauk U . . . . . . . 325 Chin State . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) . . . . . . . . 326 Mindat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Kalaymyo (Kalay) . . . . . . 329 Tiddim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Rihkhawdar . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Falam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Hakha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Myanmar Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 People & Religious Beliefs of Myanmar . . . 352 Aung San Suu Kyi . . . . . 366 Government, the Economy & Human Rights . . . . . . . . 372 Eating in Myanmar . . . . 379 Architecture & Arts . . . 388 Environment & Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Responsible Travel . . . . 404 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 407 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 447 SURVIVAL GUIDE UNDERSTAND SPECIAL FEATURES Shwedagon Paya in 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Temples of Myanmar . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Mandalay Cycling Tour . . . . . . . . . 247 Aung San Suu Kyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Golden Wonders ‘This is Burma’, wrote Rudyard Kipling. ‘It will be quite unlike any land you know about.’ Amazingly, more than a century later, Myanmar retains the power to surprise and delight even the most jaded of travellers. Be dazzled by the ‘winking wonder’ of Shwedagon Paya. Contemplate the 4000 sacred stupas scattered across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief at the Golden Rock at Mt Kyaiktiyo, teetering impossibly on the edge of a chasm. These are all important Buddhist sights in a country where pious monks are more revered than rock stars. The New Myanmar In 2015, Myanmar voted in its first democratically elected government in more than half a century. Sanctions have been dropped and the world is rushing to do business here. Relaxing of censorship has led to an explosion of new media and an astonishing openness in public discussions of oncetaboo topics. Swathes of the country, offlimits for years, can now be freely visited. Modern travel conveniences, such as mobile phone coverage and internet access, are now common, but largely confined to the big cities and towns, where the recent economic and social improvements are most obvious. Traditional Life In a nation with more than 100 ethnic groups, exploring Myanmar can often feel like you’ve stumbled into a living edition of the National Geographic, c 1910! For all the momentous recent changes, Myanmar remains at heart a rural nation of traditional values. Everywhere, you’ll encounter men wearing skirt-like longyi, both genders smothered in thanakha (traditional makeup) and betel-chewing grannies. People still get around in trishaws and, in rural areas, horse and cart. Drinking tea – a British colonial affectation – is enthusiastically embraced in thousands of traditional teahouses. Simple Pleasures Thankfully, the pace of change is not overwhelming, leaving the simple pleasures of travel in Myanmar intact. Drift down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River in an old river steamer or luxury cruiser. Stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay of Bengal. Trek through pine forests to minority villages in the Shan Hills without jostling with scores of fellow travellers. Best of all, you’ll encounter locals who are gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate, inquisitive and passionate – they want to play a part in the world, and to know what you make of their world. Now is the time to make that connection. Welcome to Myanmar It’s the dawn of a more democratic era in this extraordinary land, where the landscape is scattered with gilded pagodas and the traditional ways of Asia endure. 4 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
SUWATCHAI PLUEMRUETAI / SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love Myanmar By Simon Richmond, Writer It doesn’t matter whether this is your first or 51st visit to Myanmar: you won’t fail to notice the energy, hope and possibilities for the future that hang in the air. Exiles are returning, joining others in rising to the challenge of bringing their country into the 21st century at the same time as preserving the best of the past. Myanmar has many problems to fix but its people remain as stoic and charming as ever. Slow down, sit, listen and connect with them – it’s the best way to appreciate what’s truly golden about this land. For more about our writers, see p448 5 Above: Mahamuni Paya (p241), Mandalay
KACHIN STATE SAGAING REGION MANDALAY REGION KAYAH SHAN STATE MAGWE REGION RAKHINE CHIN STATE STATE Putao Myitkyina Namkham Bhamo Khamti Hpakant Kawlinn Katha Sumprabum Homilin Tamu Mawlaik Kalaymyo Tiddim THIMPHU DHAKA Mong Loi-Mwe Ping Kyaingtong Mong La Chiang Rai Lashio Hsipaw Kyaukme Loilem Nyaungshwe Namhsan Shwebo Sagaing Amarapura Minigun Kalaw Magwe Kyaukpadaung Meiktila Myingyan Taunggyi Mogok Pyin Oo Lwin Mandalay Pindaya Kyaukse Loikaw Lawpita NAY PYI TAW Pyinmana Taungdwingyi Phe Khon Kunhing Namsang Salay Mrauk U Minbya Pakokku Teknaf Sittwe Paletwa Hakha Kyaukpyu Maungdaw Minbu Nyaung U Monywa Ye-U Bagan Hkakabo Razi (5889m) Taung Taung Mangin Kumon Chin Hills (3053m) Mt Victoria Rakhaing 20º N Indawgyi Lake Inle Lake Pass Pangsaw Shan Plateau arwady ver Ri River River Brahmaputra Ganges River Chindwin Mekong River ThanlwinRiver Chindwin River Ayeyarwady Ayey VIETNAM LAOS CHINA CHINA (TIBET) INDIA BHUTAN BANGLADESH Mt Popa Mu-se (Myanmar) – Ruili (China) Tachileik (Myanmar) – Mae Sai (Thailand) Myanmar (Burma) 120 miles 200 km 0 0 Heart-shaped lake on India– Myanmar border (p331) Rih Lake Sagaing White and gold stupas dot the hillside (p266) Fishers, ruined stupas and floating markets (p206) Inle Lake Hike from here to Inle Lake (p217) Hsipaw Kalaw Explore the surrounding tribal villages (p282) Bagan Amazing plain of ancient temples (p156) Mt Kennedy (2703m) Rih Lake
Gulf of Thailand Gulf of Mottama Bay of Bengal Mouths of the A N D A M A N S E A Ayeyarwady KAYIN STATE BAGO REGION KAYAH YANGON STATE MON STATE REGION TANINTHARYI REGION AYEYARWADY REGION VIENTIANE Pasauwng Thaton Kyaikto Pyay TAW Shwedaung Yakyi Bago Taungoo Sangkhlaburi Palaw Tanintharyi Myeik Bokpyin BANGKOK Setse Kawkareik Ye Maungmagan Twante Bogalay Yangon Letkhokkon Zalut Dawei Payathonzu Yebyu Thanbyuzayat Kyaikmaraw Hpa-an Mawlamyine Thandwe Taunggok Ramree Gwa Kanthaya Ngapali Beach Chaung Tha Beach Kyaukpyu Pathein Myaungmya Ngwe Saung Hinthada Padaung Bago Yoma oma Y 104º E 18º N 16º N 14º N 12º N 100º E 98º E 96º E 94º E 92º E 90º E 10º N 102º E Yinnbye Kyun Manaung Kyun Andaman Islands (INDIA) Three Pagodas Pass Myeik Archipelago Mawdwin Point River River Sittoung arwady CAMBODIA THAILAND Htee Khee (Myanmar) – Phu Nam Ron (Thailand) Myawaddy (Myanmar) – Mae Sot (Thailand) Kawthoung (Myanmar) - Ranong (Thailand) Expressway Yangon-Mandalay Yangon's dazzling Buddhist temple (p45) Shwedagon Paya Dive around beautiful tropical islands (p135) Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago Colonial architecture and Mon culture (p109) Mawlamyine
Myanmar’s Top 10 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Shwedagon Paya 1Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s (Rangoon’s) gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p45) is equal parts religious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination ceremony or fortune-telling session. If you’re looking for a reason to linger in Yangon before heading elsewhere in the country, this is it. Inle Lake 2 Almost every visitor to Myanmar makes it to Inle Lake (p197) and for good reason: vast and serene, the lake is large enough for everyone to come away with their own, unique experience of life here. If you’re counting days, hit the hotspots: the temples, markets and floating gardens. With more time, you can explore the remote corners of the lake, visit the fishing villages around it, or hike in the nearby hills. Whatever you do, the memories of gliding across Inle’s placid waters will stay with you forever. PATRICK FOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK © OCTOBERSONATA / SHUTTERSTOCK © 9
Bagan 3 Despite damage wrought by the 2016 earthquake, the 3000-plus temples scattered across the plains of Bagan (p156) remain an awesome sight. Most of the 11th- to 13thcentury vintage temples have been renovated, as Bagan is an active religious site and place of pilgrim - age. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the top sunset-viewing spots, but they can be avoided. Pedal off on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruined temples, or float over the incredible scene in a hotair balloon. CHINNAPHONG MUNGSIRI / GETTY IMAGES © NICK FOX / SHUTTERSTOCK © 34 10PLAN YOUR TRIP M YA N M A R ’ S T O P 1 0
Sagaing 4 A place of pilgrimage for Myanmar Buddhists, Sagaing (p266) is an easy day trip from Mandalay. Its stint as a royal capital may have been brief (just four years) but it established itself and endures as an intellectual centre of gravity for Buddhist traditions. The town is dominated by low hills covered by numerous white and gold stupas – a spectacular sight in themselves. But also take time to visited the cave monastery Tilawkaguru (pictured left), filled with some of the most impressive preserved cave paintings in the country. Mawlamyine 5 A virtual time capsule of the Raj, Mawlamyine (p109) has changed little since the colonial era. The former capital of British Burma, Mawlamyine’s mix of historic architecture, imposing churches, hilltop temples and a busy harbour remains so timeless that you can still see why writers George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling drew on the city for inspiration. Surrounding Mawlamyine are tropical islands and deep caves, as well as villages where the area’s unique Mon culture remains strong, yet visitor numbers remain mysteriously low, allowing all the more space for you. Win Sein Taw Ya (p116) Myeik Archipelago 6 About 800 barely populated islands with white-sand beaches sitting in a turquoise sea, some of the best diving in the region, roving sea gypsies and barely a hotel or tourist to be seen. It’s hard to believe that a place like the Myeik Archipelago (p135) still exists in Southeast Asia. Accessing these gorgeous islands takes time and is not cheap, but those who make the investment will get to live out every beach junkie’s fantasy in one of the last unknown areas of Asia. R.M. NUNES / SHUTTERSTOCK © ETHAN DANIELS / SHUTTERSTOCK © 6 5 11 PLAN YOUR TRIP M YA N M A R ’ S T O P 1 0
Mrauk U 7 The temples, monasteries, ruined palace and crumbling city walls of the former Rakhine capital of Mrauk U (p318) stand as a permanent reminder of what a remarkable place it must have been at its zenith in the 16th century. Back then, wide-eyed Western visitors compared the city to London or Venice. But Mrauk U is no museum piece; its temples are surrounded by working villages and emerald-green rice fields. Best of all, Mrauk U sees no more than 5000 foreigners a year, so you’re likely to have this ruined splendour to yourself. Kothaung Paya (p322) Hsipaw 8 Attractive, laid-back Hsipaw (p282) is ideally placed for quick, easy hikes into fascinating Shan and Palaung villages, as well as more strenuous ones to barely visited hamlets. The surrounding area feels far less discovered than the treks available around Kalaw, or much of Southeast Asia. Hsipaw itself is a historic town with a royal past – it has its very own Shan palace – and an area known as ‘Little Bagan’, full of ancient stupas. There’s also a great morning market by the Dokhtawady River. RAFAL CICHAWA / SHUTTERSTOCK © BY-SA/3.0)], VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS © PHOTO BY NGCHA (OWN WORK) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (HTTP://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/ SCOTT BIALES / SHUTTERSTOCK © 7 8 12PLAN YOUR TRIP Myanmar’s Top 1 0
Kalaw 9 With its cooler temperatures, higher elevations and many locals descended from Nepali Gurkha soldiers, Kalaw (p217) boasts an almost Himalayan atmosphere. Unsurprisingly, this is one of the best places in Myanmar for upcountry treks, with the authorities relaxed about foreign visitors getting off the beaten track. As you hike through the Danu, Pa-O and Taung Yo villages that dot the forests, fields, trails and roads that link Kalaw with Inle Lake, you’ll get a real insight into the lives of the hill peoples who populate the area. Rih Lake 10Stranded in splendid isolation on the Myanmar–India border, Rih Lake (p331) is small but perfectly formed: a heart-shaped, mystical body of water surrounded by lushly forested hills. As spectacular as the lake is, the rugged journey here through the little-seen mountains, valleys and villages of northern Chin State is also memorable. Only a handful of foreign travellers visit each year, so you are guaranteed attention from the friendly locals. Don’t expect much in the way of comfort, or tourist facilities. Instead, revel in being way off the beaten track. OSTILL / SHUTTERSTOCK © BY-SA/3.0)], VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS © PHOTO BY NGCHA (OWN WORK) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (HTTP://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/ 9 10 13 PLAN YOUR TRIP Myanmar’s Top 1 0
# # # # # Pyin Oo Lwin GO Nov-Feb Bagan GO Nov-Feb Mandalay GO Nov-Feb Mrauk U GO Oct-Mar Yangon GO Nov-Jan Warm to hot summers, mild winters Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Need to Know For more information, see Survival Guide (p403) Currency Burmese kyat (K) Language Burmese Visas Everyone requires a visa. Single-entry tourist visas last 28 days. Money Cash mainly. ATMs accepting international cards are available in major cities and tourist areas. Bring pristine US bills for exchange. Mobile Phones Mobile phone numbers begin with 09. Prepaid SIM cards are widely available and can be used in unlocked phones. If your handset is locked, it’s possible to buy a smartphone in Myanmar for as little as US$80. Time Myanmar Standard Time (GMT/UTC plus 6½ hours) When to Go High Season (Dec–Feb) ¨ Rains least (if at all, in some places) and is not so hot. ¨ Book accommodation and transport well ahead for this busy travel season. Shoulder (Oct & Nov, Mar & Apr) ¨ March to May, Yangon often reaches 104ºF (40ºC). Areas around Bagan and Mandalay are hotter. ¨ Cooler in the hill towns of Shan State. ¨ All forms of transport booked solid during Thingyan in April. Low Season (May–Sep) ¨ The southwest monsoon starts midMay and peaks from July to September. ¨ The dry zone between Mandalay and Pyay gets the least rain. Rain can make roads impassable anywhere (especially in the delta region). 14 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Useful Websites Go-Myanmar.com (www.gomyanmar.com) Plenty of up-todate travel-related information and advice. Myanmar Tourism Federation (http://myanmar.travel) Inspirational pictures, good background info and travel tips. Online Burma/Myanmar Library (www.burmalibrary. org) Database of books and past articles on Myanmar. Ministry of Hotels & Tourism (www.myanmartourism.org) Government department with some useful information. Myanmar Now (www.myanmarnow.org) News and features. Lonely Planet (www.lonely planet.com/myanmar) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more. Important Numbers Myanmar’s country code %95 International access code %00 Ambulance (Yangon) %192 Fire (Yangon) %191 Police (Yangon) %199 Exchange Rates The US dollar is the only foreign currency that’s readily exchanged and/or accepted as payment for goods and services. Australia A$1 K1050 Canada C$1 K1038 Europe €1 K1450 Japan ¥100 K1214 New Zealand NZ$1 K983 UK UK£1 K1702 US US$1 K1369 For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com. Daily Costs Budget: Less than US$50 ¨ Hostel or guesthouse: US$10–30 ¨ Local restaurant or streetstall meal: US$2–5 ¨ Travel on buses: US$1–5 Midrange: US$50–150 ¨ Double room in a midrange hotel: US$50–100 ¨ Two-course meal in midrange restaurant: US$5–10 ¨ Hiring a guide: US$10 per person per day ¨ Pathein parasol: US$1–20 Top End: More than US$150 ¨ Double room in top-end hotel: US$150–500 ¨ Two-course restaurant meal plus bottle of wine: US$40–70 ¨ Driver and guide: US$100 per day ¨ Fine lacquerware bowl: US$200 Opening Hours Cafes and teashops 6am to 6pm Banks 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday Government offices and post offices 9.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday Restaurants 11am to 9pm Shops 9am to 6pm Arriving in Myanmar Yangon International Airport If you haven’t pre-arranged a transfer with your hotel or travel agent, a taxi from the airport to the city centre will be K8000 to K12,000; it takes 45 minutes to one hour. Mandalay International Airport A whole/shared taxi into Mandalay costs K12,000/4000 (one hour). Overland arrival Walk across borders with Thailand at Tachileik–Mae Sai, Myawaddy– Mae Sot, Kawthoung–Ranong and Htee Khee–Phu Nam Ron. Getting Around A few remote destinations are accessible only by flight or boat, but many others, including key tourist sites, can be reached by road or rail. Poor and overstretched infrastructure means patience and a tolerance for discomfort are part and parcel of your journey. Air Fast; reasonably reliable schedules, but there have been safety issues with some airlines. Bus Frequent; reliable services, speed depends on state of road; overnight trips save on accommodation. Car Total flexibility but can be expensive; some destinations require a government-approved guide and driver. Boat Chance to interact with locals and pleasant sightseeing, but slow and only covers a few destinations. Train Interaction with locals and countryside views. Can be uncomfortable, slow and suffer long delays. For much more on getting around, see p418 PLAN YOUR TRIP Need to Know 15
E-Visas E-visas can be used to enter Myanmar not only at international airports in Yangon (Rangoon), Mandalay and Nay Pyi Taw, but also at three land border checkpoints, between Myanmar and Thailand: Tachileik, Myawaddy and Kawthaung. Southern Myanmar Towns Visit places that have only recently become accessible to overland travellers, such as the charming town of Ye (p119), or Dawei (p127), from where you can access the deserted beaches at Maungmagan (p127). National Museum If you’re passing through Myanmar’s surreal capital Nay Pyi Taw, the enormous National Museum has some beautifully displayed works, particularly from the Bagan period. (p147) Than Daung Gyi Interact with Kayin locals, stay in a B&B and explore vestiges of old colonial days in the newly accessible hillside village of Than Daung Gyi. (p145) U Thant House The beautifully restored former home of U Thant in Yangon is a fitting memorial to the UN Secretary-General from 1961 to 1971. (p53) Travel in Chin State The need for permission to visit much of Chin State has been lifted, allowing access to remote locations, such as heart-shaped Rih Lake. (p326) Death Railway Museum WWII buffs will want to visit the Death Railway Museum located where the railway, immortalised in the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, ended in Thanbyuzayat. (p117) Buses to Mrauk U Bus services running from Bagan and Mandalay save considerable time and money for travellers wanting to visit this archaeological treasure in Rakhine State. (p164) Werawsana Jade Pagoda Looking like a giant piece of Burmese kryptonite, the Werawsana Jade Pagoda in Amarapura is built entirely out of this semi-precious stone. (p262) Sailing to Loikaw Either taking the public ferry or chartering a private boat is a great way to connect Inle Lake and little-visited Loikaw in Kayah State. (p229) Whitewater Rafting in Putao As the snow-capped Himalayas are more plugged in to the rest of Myanmar with several daily flights to Putao, newcomer Icy Myanmar is offering exhilarating whitewater-rafting trips in the remote north. (p305) For more recommendations and reviews, see lonelyplanet. com/myanmar-burma What’s New 16 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Buddhas & Temples Shwesandaw Paya Ride the ferry across the Yangon River to visit Twante and this 2500-yearold pagoda. (p88) Win Sein Taw Ya Gawp at the 560ft-long buddha reclining on the lush hillsides of Yadana Taung, accessible from Mawlamyine. (p116) Mrauk U Fall under the spell of the old Rakhine capital, dotted with ruined and restored temples and monasteries. (p318) Sagaing Leafy paths shade the routes to 500 hilltop and riverside stupas and a community of some 6000 monks and nuns. (p266) Bodhi Tataung The glimmering 424ft standing Buddha here is the second tallest in the world, dominating the landscape for miles around. (p179) Food & Drink Street eats Street vendors serve great, cheap snacks and meals throughout Myanmar, but the best are in Yangon. (p70) Myanmar teahouse Having breakfast or an afternoon snack at a teahouse is a unique experience that provides more than a caffeinated kick. (p383) Toddy Sample this alcoholic drink made from jaggery (palm sugar) on the way to or from Mt Popa. (p173) Red Mountain Estate Pedal to this winery outside Nyaungshwe to sample wine produced from Shan Hills grapes. (p201) Markets & Shopping Bogyoke Aung San Market Drop by this historic Yangon market for handicrafts from around the country. (p54) Art Gallery of Bagan Watch artisans craft lacquerware bowls and other ornaments at workshops in Myinkaba and nearby New Bagan. (p167) Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop Visit here to buy the graceful, painted paper umbrellas that are a speciality of Pathein. (p96) Puppets If you enjoyed the classic marionette shows in Mandalay, why not adopt a puppet character of your own? (p256) Gems markets Mogok’s morning and afternoon gems markets make for fascinating people-watching and there’s no pressure to buy. (p289) Activities & Adventures Kalaw Along with Pindaya and Hsipaw, Kalaw is one of the best locations in Myanmar for short, easily arranged hill-tribe village treks. (p218) Balloon rides Marvel at Bagan’s temples, bathed in the beautiful light of dawn, from the basket of a hot-air balloon. (p156) Monywa Embarkation point for travellers seeking to boat-hop the Chindwin River to newly permitfree towns to the north. (p176) Whitewater rafting Contact Icy Myanmar in Putao to arrange rafting trips down the far north’s beautiful rivers with rapids mostly of Grades 3 or 4. (p305) Indawgyi Wetland Wildlife Sanctuary There are thrilling bird- and wildlife-spotting opportunities at this northern Myanmar lake. (p296) Mt Victoria Climb this 10,016ft peak in Chin State, Myanmar’s second-tallest mountain. (p326) Myeik Archipelago Spectacular diving awaits those adventurous enough to seek out these southern Myanmar islands. (p137) Green Hill Valley Interact gently with retired elephants at this ethically run camp and reforestation project near Kalaw. (p219) Beautiful Landscapes Inle Lake The hype is justified for this serene lake fringed by floating gardens, stilt-houses and Buddhist temples. (p206) If You Like… 17 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Shwesandaw Paya A 10-storey tall buddha watches over Pyay, its hilltop location providing sweeping views across town. (p151) Mt Zwegabin Get a bird’s-eye view from the summit of the tallest of the limestone mountains that ring Hpa-an. (p125) Than Daung Gyi Peaceful hillside village with vistas over the surrounding lush forests. (p145) National Landmark Gardens Survey the spectacle of the surreal capital Nay Pyi Taw at these gardens showcasing Myanmar’s grand sites in miniature. (p146) Gokteik Viaduct Peer down on a densely forested ravine as your train rattles over Myanmar’s longest and highest railway bridge. (p280) Ethnic Diversity Kyaingtong Mingle with Shan and tribal people from the surrounding hills at the central and twice-weekly water-buffalo markets. (p223) Hsipaw Trek from this low-key country town to meet Shan and Palaung tribal villagers. (p282) Mawlamyine Soak up the laidback atmosphere of this tropical town that’s the heart of Mon culture. (p109) Myitkyina Proud of its Kachin culture and host to two huge tribal festivals. (p291) Loikaw Arrange visits to Kayan villages from the capital of Kayah State, only recently opened to visitors. (p229) Myeik In this southern Myanmar port, encounter descendants of Chinese and Indian traders as well as Bamar, Mon and Moken people. (p131) Chin State Here the largely Christian Chin people spend Sundays in the region’s many churches. (p326) SANTIAGO URQUIJO / GETTY IMAGES © ALANTOBEY / GETTY IMAGES © Top: Train crossing the Gokteik Viaduct (p280) Bottom: Traditional bracelets worn by Akha women (p226), near Kyaingtong 18PLAN YOUR TRIP I f You L ike…
Month by Month January Peak season and, if Chinese New Year falls within the month, even busier with local tourists and those from the region. Note New Year’s Day is not a public holiday in Myanmar. z Independence Day Celebrating the end of colonial rule in Burma, this major public holiday on 4 January is marked by nationwide fairs, including a week-long one at Kandawgyi Lake in Yangon. z Manao Festival Costumed dancing, copious drinking of rice beer and 29 cows or buffalo sacrificed to propitiate nat (traditional spirits) are part of this Kachin State Day event, held in Myitkyina on 10 January. zAnanda Pahto Festival Stretching over a couple of weeks in January (but sometimes in December, depending on the Myanmar lunar calendar), this is one of the biggest religious festivals in Bagan. February A busy travel season, with the weather beginning to get warmer. If Chinese New Year happens to fall in this month, watch out for a boost in travel activity. z Shwedagon Festival The lunar month of Tabaung (which can also fall in March) signals the start of the Shwedagon Festival, the largest paya pwe (pagoda festival) in Myanmar. March A great month for travelling around Myanmar, with generally fair weather in most locations and only a low chance of rain. z Yangon Photo Festival This celebration of photography (www.yangonphoto. com) is held at Yangon’s Institut Française and other venues across the city, and includes exhibitions, a conference and workshops. April It’s steaming hot and with many locals off work and on the move during the New Year celebrations, securing transport, booking hotels and even finding a restaurant open for a meal can be tricky. z Buddha’s Birthday The full-moon day of Kason (falling in April or May) is celebrated as Buddha’s birthday, the day of his enlightenment and the day he entered nibbana (nirvana). Watering ceremonies are conducted at banyan trees within temple and monastery grounds. z Water Festival (Thingyan) Lasting from three days to a week, depending on whether the holiday falls over a weekend, this celebration welcomes in Myanmar’s New Year. TOP EVENTS Independence Day 4 January Ananda Pahto Festival January Water Festival (Thingyan) mid-April Taungbyone Nat Pwe August or early September Tazaungdaing October or November 19 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
z Dawei Thingyan The male residents of the tropical seaside town of Dawei (Tavoy) don huge, 13ft bamboo-frame effigies and dance down the streets to the beat of the kalakodaun, an Indian drum. June Pack your raincoat and sturdy umbrella, as Myanmar gets doused by monsoon rains. Roads can be flooded and flights to coastal destinations are sharply reduced. z Start of the Buddhist Rains Retreat The full moon of Waso is the start of the three-month Buddhist Rains Retreat (aka Buddhist Lent), when young men enter monasteries and no marriages take place. Prior to the fullmoon day, a robe-offering ceremony to monks is performed. August The monsoon is still in full swing so be prepared for damp days and transport hitches. zTaungbyone Nat Pwe Myanmar’s most famous animist celebration is held at Taungbyone, 13 miles north of Mandalay, and attracts thousands of revellers, many of them homosexual or transgender. October Rain is still a possibility but that means everything is very green – making this a great time to visit Bagan, for example. z Thadingyut Marking the end of Buddhist Lent, this festival of lights celebrates the descent of Buddha from heaven. People place candles in their windows and it’s a popular time for weddings and monk pilgrimages. zTazaungdaing The full-moon night of Tazaungmon (which can also fall in November), known as Tazaungdaing, is a second ‘festival of lights’, particularly famous for the fire-balloon competitions in Taunggyi. November The start of the main tourist season sees cooler weather and still-lush landscapes. z National Day Held on the waning of Tazaungmon (usually in late November), this public holiday celebrates student protests back in 1920, seen as a crucial step on the road to independence. z Irrawaddy Literary Festival Launched in Yangon in 2013, since 2014 this festival (www.irrawaddylitfest.com) has been held in Mandalay. Local writers are joined by celebrated international literary and media figures, including the likes of Jung Chang, Fergal Keane and Tan Twan Eng. December Peak travel season with many visitors heading to the country over the Christmas–New Year break. Christmas itself is celebrated by many Christian Kayin, Kachin and Chin people. z Kayin New Year On the first waxing moon of Pyatho (which can also happen in January), the Kayin New Year is considered a national holiday, with Kayin communities (clustered in Insein near Yangon and Hpa-An) wearing traditional dress. PAYA PWE Nearly every active paya (Buddhist temple) or kyaung (Burmese Buddhist monastery) community hosts occasional celebrations of their own, often called paya pwe (pagoda festivals). Many occur on full-moon days and nights from January to March, following the main rice harvest, but the build-up can last for a while. All such festivals follow the 12-month lunar calendar and so their celebration can shift between two months from year to year. To check dates of these and other festivals, go to the festival calendar of the Britain-Myanmar Society (www.shwepla.net/Calendar/ThinkCal.mv). 20PLAN YOUR TRIP Month by Month
Itineraries Bagan Inle Lake #– f# Mandalay Pindaya Yangon BANGLADESH CHINA THAILAND MYANMAR B AY OF B E N G A L A N D A M A N S E A É É É É É É É É •# •# •# •# •# •# •# •# #– £# Myanmar’s Highlights Myanmar’s top locations form the bedrock of this travel plan that includes a train and boat ride as well as downtime beside lovely Inle Lake. Fly into Yangon where you’ll spend your first couple of days acclimatising. Take a walking tour around the historic downtown area, chill out beside Kandawgyi Lake and visit Shwedagon Paya at sunset. Nip across the Yangon River to Dalah, a slice of rural Myanmar. Board the overnight sleeper train to Mandalay. In three or four days you can see the old capital’s sights as well as make day trips to places such as Mingun, home to a giant earthquake-cracked stupa; U Bein’s Bridge at Amarapura; and Monywa, where you can climb halfway up inside the world’s tallest standing buddha. Catch the fast boat from Mandalay to Bagan; set aside three days to explore the thousands of ancient temples scattered across the countryside. For amazing views, sign up for a hot-air balloon ride or climb sacred Mt Popa. Fly to beautiful Inle Lake, where motor-powered dugout canoes take you to floating markets. Make a day trip to the Shwe Oo Min Cave near Pindaya to see 8000 buddha images or arrange some light trekking. 2 WEEKS 21 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
This adventurous south to north itinerary includes activities and a range of transport, and will take to you to tourist hotspots such as Bagan, as well as off-the-beaten-track destinations like Mrauk U. After a few days acclimatising in Yangon, take an overnight bus to Kayin State’s capital, Hpa-an, allowing enough time to climb nearby Mt Zwegabin, or go rock climbing. Charter a boat for the lovely two-hour river trip to Mawlamyine, a beguiling, melancholic town trapped in a colonial time-warp. Make a few day trips, such as to the coconut-crazy island Bilu Kyun, the giant reclining buddha at Win Sein Taw Ya temple, or Thanbyuzayat War Cemetery. On your way north, pause at the fabulous, golden boulder stupa balanced atop Mt Kyaiktiyo and the old royal capital of Bago, stacked with impressive temples. Follow the highway north to Myanmar’s contemporary capital Nay Pyi Taw, a visit that plunges you into the deepest depths of the bizarre. Hop on the slow train from here to Kalaw, from where you can organise a two-night trek to magical Inle Lake. Save time by flying from Heho, Inle Lake’s airport, to Mandalay. The former royal capital is a great base for visiting several ancient sites. If the heat is getting you down, drive two hours and breathe fresh cool air in the colonial-era getaway of Pyin Oo Lwin. Take a boat or bus ride west of Mandalay to the remarkable temple-strewn plains of Bagan. A new bus service makes it possible to go directly from here to Mrauk U. Once a powerful, cosmopolitan city, it’s now one of Myanmar’s most atmospheric backwaters, an idyllic location dotted with hundreds of ancient stupas and monasteries. Reserve a day for another river trip to visit nearby Chin villages. Take a ferry from Mrauk U to Rakhine State’s capital of Sittwe, from where you can fly south for some R&R on beautiful Ngapali Beach. Tan topped up, fly to Yangon where you can do some last-minute sightseeing and shopping, perhaps making a day trip to the Delta town of Twante, or learning how to cook Burmese food. 4 WEEKS É É É É #f É É É Pyin Oo Lwin ÉInle Lake Yangon #• É Mt Kyaiktiyo Hpa-an Mawlamyine Ngapali Beach Mandalay Bagan Mrauk U Sittwe BANGLADESH CHINA MYANMAR LAOS THAILAND B AY O F B E N GA L R A N D A M A N S E A É É #– É ÉÉ #• Bago Kalaw#• Nay Pyi Taw#• #f #– É #– É É É É É #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• #• A Month in the Country 22PLAN YOUR TRIP I t inerari e s
Plan Your Trip Getting Your Visa Getting a visa is straightforward. The key things to know include the following: ¨ Everyone requires a visa to visit Myanmar. ¨ Start the process no later than three weeks before your trip: a month before to be safe. ¨ If there is no Myanmar embassy or consulate near where you live, it may be possible to apply for a visa online (an e-visa) and pick up the stamp at the airport on arrival. ¨ Currently e-visas can also be used at three borders between Myanmar and Thailand: Tachileik, Myawaddy and Kawthaung. Travel Restrictions & Arranging Permits Much of Myanmar needs no prior permission to visit, but some areas are completely off-limits and others require permits. When securing such permission consider the following: ¨ It takes time – plan on a minimum of at least two weeks. Permission may come more quickly but sometimes takes longer. ¨ Applications should be made via specialist travel agencies who will arrange the permit as part of a package tour, which will generally include accommodation, a licensed tourist guide, a car and driver (with their meal and accommodation covered, too). Before You Go Although travel here is a breeze compared to the past, Myanmar still isn’t a spontaneous destination to visit. Careful pretrip planning, from getting your visa and travel money sorted, to weighing up transport options and arranging any necessary permits and guides, will make your visit here all the smoother. Predeparture Checklist Apply for a visa. Book hotels, flights and river cruises. Sort out any necessary permits for travel to restricted areas. Stock up on brand-new US dollar bills. Arrange any necessary vaccinations. Don’t Forget all-purpose electrical-plug adapter torch (flashlight) for power blackouts warm jacket for chilly overnight bus rides flip-flops or sandals bug spray prescription medicines 23 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Top: Woman in a Chin village (p327 ) Bottom: Red Mountain Estate (p201), Nyaungshwe TANAKORN PUSSAWONG / SHUTTERSTOCK © WOJTEK CHMIELEWSKI / SHUTTERSTOCK © 24PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go
¨ You will need to pay fees that are part of the tour package; these can cost anything from US$200 to US$1000 per day depending on what you plan to do. Check with your country’s government travel advice (p412) and also double-check with local travel agencies. Restricted Areas In January 2013, government bans on travel to restricted areas of Myanmar, including places in Chin, Kayah, Kayin, Shan and Kachin states, were partially lifted. For a map of where you can travel freely and where you need government permission, see www.tourismtransparency.org/ no-go-zones-changes. Confusion over the rules has led to some travellers being turned back from some areas, so make thorough inquiries before you set out and, if possible, travel in the company of a Burmese speaker. Some restrictions still apply, including to the following destinations, which are of interest to travellers and for which you will need a permit: Chin State Paletwa and Matupi Kachin State Bhamo Mandalay Region Mogok Shan State Taunggyi to Kyaingtong overland Choosing Accommodation Bookings for most accommodation in Myanmar can be made directly online with the establishment or via local travel agents. Advance bookings are strongly advised for the busiest holiday season from December through to February. Staying in a monastery is usually only possible at those that run meditation courses for foreign students. Online accommodation rental operations, such as Airbnb, do have some listings for Myanmar, but note it’s currently illegal to stay in a private home. Family-Run Guesthouses Often with just five or so rooms and a lounge, which are shared with three or four generations of a family, these budgetlevel guesthouses can be a highlight of your trip, offering connections with local life and inexpensive deals (under US$20 for a double). Most rooms come with a fan or some sort of air-conditioning unit, though electricity frequently cuts out after midnight. Some guesthouses are better than others, however, and like budget hotels, you’ll find some with squashed mosquitoes left on the walls. BURMA OR MYANMAR? When in 1989 the military junta ditched Burma (along with all other colonial-era place names, such as Rangoon, Pagan, Bassein and Arakan) in favour of Myanmar, the reasoning was that this name was more inclusive of the nation’s diverse ethnic population. That was a spurious argument since both Burma and Myanmar have the same etymological roots in the Burmese language: the former is the spoken name, the latter is how the name is written in Bamar. During the years of military dictatorship, what to call the country was highly politicised, democracy supporters favouring Burma. However, today, that polarisation is fading into the past. Aung San Suu Kyi, addressing some of the nation’s diplomats in her role as Foreign Minister in April 2016, said they could call the country either Burma or Myanmar. Although accustomed to calling it Burma herself, she vowed to sometimes use Myanmar – all in the spirit of diplomacy! We use Myanmar as the default name for the country, with Burma used for periods before 1989 and when it’s the name of an organisation, eg Burma Campaign UK. ‘Burmese’ is used for the Bamar people (not for all of the country’s population, which we term ‘the people of Myanmar’), the food and the language. 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go 25
Budget Hotels In many towns, your only options will be a couple of four-storey, modern hotels. In some hotels you will find dark cell-like rooms with a shared bathroom on the ground floor (usually for locals only), and two types of nicer rooms on upper floors. Some have lifts. Some keep their generators on 24 hours; others just for a few hours at night and in the morning. Most cost US$20 to US$50 for a double. Have a look before taking the higherpriced ‘deluxe’ rooms; they often cost an extra US$10 for a refrigerator and writing desk that you may not use. Other deluxe rooms offer more space, nicer flooring and maybe satellite TV. Midrange & Top-End Upper-midrange and top-end hotels vary widely in terms of quality and value for money. There are few genuine boutique hotels, for example. When making your choice, ask about the hotel’s commitment to local and sustainable issues, such as its employment practices and whether funds are provided for community projects and local charities. Transport Options For some destinations in Myanmar you’ll have no option but to fly. For others, depending on the time you have available, there’s the choice also of rail, road and – in a few cases – boat. Using a mix of transport types is a great way to get the most out of your time in Myanmar, with trains and government-run ferries being best for interaction with locals. Bookings are fairly straightforward. All domestic airlines provide online booking and it’s also possible to book online for bus and train tickets via travel agencies. Government-run ferries are becoming less common as a way to get around, although there are some private boat services in certain locations. For anything approaching comfortable travel on Myanmar’s rivers, the only option is a luxury cruise. If time is limited but you want to cover plenty of ground, consider hiring a car and driver. Self-drive isn’t really an option, although in a few locations, such as Mandalay, you can hire motorbikes. Train travel is not a good option if you are on a tight schedule – they are notorious for long delays. TRANSPORT COMPARISON TABLE ROUTE AIR BUS TRAIN BOAT Yangon–Mandalay 1hr 25min; from US$85 9hr; ordinary/ VIP bus K11,000/20,500 15½hr; ordinary/ upper class/sleeper K4650/9300/12,750 n/a Yangon–Bagan 70min; US$100- 110 10hr; K15,500 16hr; ordinary/ upper class/sleeper K4500/6000/16,500 n/a Yangon–Inle Lake 70min; from US$130 (to Heho) 12hr; ordinary/ VIP bus K15,000/18,500 (to Taunggyi) n/a n/a Yangon–Ngapali 50min; from US$101 14hr; K15,000 n/a n/a Mandalay–Inle Lake 30min; from US$56 6-8hr; from K12,000 n/a n/a Mandalay–Bagan 30min; from US$56 6hr; from K8000 8hr; ordinary/upper class K4000/10,000 11hr; US$35 Bagan–Inle Lake 40min; from US$70 10hr; from K11,000 (to Taunggyi) n/a n/a 26PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go
Boat A cruise along Myanmar’s major rivers is the stuff of many travellers’ dreams, a chance to soak up Myanmar’s largely unsullied landscape and lifestyle in all its lush glory. The main drawback of this mode of travel is speed – or lack thereof. Boat trips for many routes are loosely scheduled in terms of days, not hours. Make sure you bring plenty of diversions and/or a willingness to make conversation with fellow passengers. The level of comfort on the boats depends on your budget. IWT ferries and private boats may be relatively inexpensive but you get what you pay for – they are very low on frills and highly uncomfortable for lengthy journeys. You certainly won’t go hungry, though, as all longdistance ferries have an on-board cook and are visited at most stops by a variety of locals selling food and drink. For comforts, such as a bed with a mattress and fully plumbed bathroom, your only option will be to join a cruise on a luxury boat (p422). Rates will usually include all meals and excursions from the boat. The starting point for most trips is either Bagan or Mandalay, but occasionally itineraries originate in Yangon. Routes There are 5000 miles of navigable river in Myanmar, with the most important river being the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy). Even in the dry season, boats can travel from the delta region (dodging exposed sandbars) all the way north to Bhamo, and in the wet they can reach Myitkyina. The ability of you being able to make such a journey, though, is another matter, as foreigners are barred from certain routes – at the time of research, for example, it was not possible for foreign visitors to travel on any boats heading into or out of Myitkyina. This situation may change in the future. One other key thing to keep in mind is the direction in which to travel. Journeys heading north (ie against the flow of the river) take days longer than those going south with the river – this is especially the case on the lumbering IWT ferries. Sunset cruise on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River in Bagan (p165) JPRICHARD / SHUTTERSTOCK © 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go
The key riverboat routes that can be built into a travel itinerary include the following: Yangon–Mandalay Rarely offered route on luxury cruises. Mandalay–Bagan On the IWT ferry or private boats. Mandalay–Bhamo–Katha A few private fast-boat services, but mostly done on the IWT. Mawlamyine–Hpa-an By private boat. Sittwe–Mrauk U By private boats or IWT ferry. Khamti–Monywa Chindwin River route on IWT ferries and private boats. A few luxury boats also sail along the Chindwin. Organised Tours There are hundreds of businesses across Myanmar calling themselves travel agencies, but only a handful can be considered full-service, experienced tour agencies, with a track record of arranging visits to all corners of the country. Joining an organised tour is seldom necessary, nor ideally the best way to see Myanmar. If your travel plans are straightforward, it’s very easy to make your own arrangements. However, for certain parts of the country that require permits or for off-thebeaten track travel plans, specific interests and adventure activities, the services of a reputable agency come into their own. See travel agencies (p415) and specific destinations for listings. Arranging Private Guides If you’re used to having a car at the airport waiting for you, and guides showing you where to go, either contact a Myanmarbased travel agent before a trip, or give yourself a couple of days to do so once you arrive. Travel agencies (p415) and often hotels can help set up private guides and transport. Ask to pay as you go to ensure that your money is spread out and to use different guides at each destination rather than one guide for the whole trip. Talk with more Reclining Buddha near Kyaikthanlan Paya (p111) JEAN-PHILIPPE TOURNUT / GETTY IMAGES © 28PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go
than one agent, telling them what you want, to gauge offers. Some agents are keen to ensure you have adequate travel insurance covering medical emergencies for your trip. Their concerns are well founded, as quality medical care in Myanmar isn’t readily available. An insurance policy that covers medi-vac is wise. Activities If you’re planning a trekking or diving trip to Myanmar, it’s best to check well in advance with operators about your preferred dates and how this fits into local weather patterns and the possibility of joining an organised tour or not. For example, diving is restricted to the dry season, ie between November and April. Likewise, most river cruises are not scheduled during the wet season from April to the end of September, and you won’t be able to go hot-air ballooning during this season either. Money Tips In the vast majority of cases you’ll be paying for everything in cash – typically Myanmar’s local currency, kyat, but sometimes US dollars. If you’re dealing with a travel agent, you can usually pay in advance for some of your expenses (hotels, transport), on top of which a processing fee of around 5% may be charged. Although banks and moneychangers have been instructed by the government to accept all dollars whatever their age and condition, you’ll run into far fewer problems if you bring brand-new greenbacks for exchange to kyat: this means bills from 2006 or later that are in mint condition, ie no folds, stamps, stains, writing or tears. Keep them in a flat wallet as you travel. ATMs accepting international cards are common in cities and major towns (but not elsewhere). A few places such as hotels, tourist restaurants and shops also take credit cards. But with dodgy power supplies and telecommunications, such electronic means of payment cannot be guaranteed – so come prepared with plenty of cash. What to Wear Unless you are planning a luxury cruise along one of the country’s rivers, it’s unlikely you’ll need anything formal or fancy to wear. The key things to remember are that you will be taking your shoes on and off quite a lot to visit temples, enter homes etc, so flip-flops or sandals are recommended. Also, both men and women should respectfully keep their legs and upper bodies fully clothed when visiting religious buildings – a longyi (sarong) or shawl can work for a quick cover-up in such cases. If you’re visiting any of Myanmar’s higher-altitude areas, bring warm clothes to counter cooler temperatures and chilly nights. TRAVEL LITERATURE The Trouser People (Andrew Marshall; 2012) The new edition includes Marshall’s eyewitness account of the 2007 Saffron Revolution. Golden Earth (Norman Lewis; 1952) What’s amazing about Lewis’ vivid account of travelling in the turbulent Burma of 1951 is how little some things have changed. Finding George Orwell in Burma (Emma Larkin; 2004) Perceptive account contrasting Orwell’s time in Burma as a colonial policeman with Larkin’s own travels in the modern era. 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP Be fore You Go
Southwestern Myanmar Temples Beaches Crafts Temples Galore Bago (Pegu) alone could probably win the temple stakes for just about any city in Myanmar, but the water-bound Yele Paya at Kyauktan and the Shwemokhtaw Paya in Pathein make the entire region an area worth investigating for temple freaks. Easy-Access Beaches Chaung Tha Beach and Ngwe Saung Beach probably won’t fit everybody’s notion of a picture-postcard desert beach, but they’re clean, sunny and the easiest beaches to reach in Myanmar. Myanmar Handicrafts View Myanmar’s famed silk and cotton parasols being created at workshops in Pathein. Twante’s Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds turn out clay containers of varying shapes and sizes. p86 Regions at a Glance # Yangon Temples Shopping Food Paya Pilgrimages Yangon’s unmissable Shwedagon Paya, Bago’s plethora of temples, the water-bound Yele Paya at Kyauktan and Pathein’s Shwemokhtaw Paya make the entire region perfect for those with a passion for paya. Arts, Crafts & Markets Yangon offers a growing range of shops stocked with quality handicrafts, quirky cultural items and genuine antiques. In particular, look out for interesting and affordable contemporary art and crafts from socially responsible businesses. The city’s fresh-produce markets are also vibrant and great for browsing and photo ops. Diverse Cuisines Offering the country’s best selection of Burmese and international food, Yangon’s dynamic restaurant scene covers an ever-expanding range of cuisines – everything from Indian nibbles to Shan noodles to Mexican and Japanese. The more adventurous will want to sample the city’s multiple street-food offerings. p34 30 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Eastern Myanmar Outdoors Culture Food Boat Rides & Hiking Tramping between tea plantations in Pindaya; buzzing around in a boat on Inle Lake; scaling mountains outside Kalaw; visiting a Loi longhouse outside Kyaingtong...just a few of the outdoor pursuits possible in eastern Myanmar. Shan & Pa-O People The country’s far east boasts exceptional cultural diversity – even by Myanmar standards. Learn about Pa-O culture around Inle Lake, or about Shan culture and language and their similarities with those of neighbouring Thailand in Kyaingtong. Authentic Shan Food From shàn k’auq·s’wèh, Shan-style noodle soup, to ngà t’ămìn jin, a turmerictinged rice dish, a stay in eastern Myanmar is your chance to try authentic Shan food at the source. p196 Bagan & Central Myanmar Temples Shopping Scenery Paya Beyond Bagan You’ll find thousands of temples in Bagan, but also worth seeking out are the Nat shrine at Mt Popa and the pilgrimage temples of Shwesandaw Paya in Taungoo, Shwesandaw Paya in Pyay and Shwemyetman Paya in Shwedaung. Lacquerware & Blankets Bagan is also famous for its exquisitely decorated lacquerware; watch artisans create it in workshops in Myinkaba and New Bagan. Across the Ayeyarwady River, Pakokku is famous for its patterned blankets. Panoramic Views Get an eyeful of the countryside from atop the temple at Mt Popa’s summit or from one of the hot-air balloons flying over Bagan at dawn. p141 Southeastern Myanmar Beaches Temples Culture Myeik Archipelago Southern Myanmar’s Myeik Archipelago covers more than 800 largely uninhabited islands, making it the country’s, if not mainland Southeast Asia’s, ultimate beach destination. Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) There are enough temples in and around Mawlamyine alone to keep you busy for a lifetime, but the indisputable highlight of the region is Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) – a must-do religious pilgrimage for everyone in Myanmar. Mon People You will probably never have heard of the Mon people before, so let one of the excellent Mawlamyinebased guides introduce you to the culture via the area’s tidy sugar-palm-lined towns, seaside temples and island-bound villages. p105 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance
Western Myanmar Temples Beaches Mountains Ancient Palaces & Teak Monasteries Temples and a ruined palace are scattered across the lush hillsides of the old Rakhine capital of Mrauk U. Sittwe’s giant Lokananda Paya and the teak buildings of the Shwezedi Kyaung monastic complex are also worth searching out. Ngapali Beach Idyllic stretches of palmfringed sand hardly come more perfectly formed than those of Ngapali Beach. Mountain Hikes Brave the rough roads of Chin State as they wind up to 8000ft or more and hike to the summits of Mt Victoria and Mt Kennedy, passing through Chin villages where the way of life has barely changed in centuries. p307 Northern Myanmar Outdoors Culture Boating Himalayan Hiking Hike to unspoilt hill-tribe villages that are easily accessible on short hikes from Hsipaw and Kyaukme. Given permits and a bigger budget, intrepid travellers can trek deep into Myanmar’s Himalayan foothills from Putao. Meet Myanmar’s Minority People Immerse yourself in the region’s fascinating cultural mix, including Chineseinfluenced Lashio, Shan and Palaung villages around Hsipaw, and the Kachin capital Myitkyina, home to two of Myanmar’s biggest and most colourful ‘minority’ festivals. River Trips You’ll hardly see another foreigner on the no-frills public boats chugging down the Ayeyarwady River. Or for more of a rush, consider a whitewaterrafting trip on the dramatic Malikha River near Putao. p271 Mandalay & Around Temples Culture Food Ancient Stupas & Temples Arguably more interesting than Mandalay’s fine monastic buildings are the older stupas and temples on the sites of several older former capitals, including what would have been the world’s biggest stupa (Mingun) had it been finished. Performing Arts Myanmar’s cultural capital offers intimate traditional dance performances, marionette shows and the famed Moustache Brothers’ vaudevillian rants. Upper Burmese Cuisine Mandalay is a great destination for cheap Upper Burmese cuisine, which fans say is heartier than Yangon food. A high population of expat Chinese has blessed the city with a slew of excellent Chinese eateries. p234 # 32PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance
^# Northern Myanmar p271 Mandalay & Around Western Myanmar p307 Bagan & Central Myanmar Eastern Myanmar p196 Southwestern Myanmar Southeastern Myanmar p105 p234 p141 p86 ^#Yangon p34 On the Road ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
POP 5,160,510 / %01 Best Places to Eat ¨ Rangoon Tea House (p69) ¨ Pansuriya (p69) ¨ Feel Myanmar Food (p68) ¨ Green Gallery (p70) ¨ Rau Ram (p71) ¨ Le Planteur (p74) Best Places to Sleep ¨ Loft Hotel (p63) ¨ Alamanda Inn (p66) ¨ Belmond Governor’s Residence (p64) ¨ Yama Dormitory (p62) ¨ Pickled Tea Hostel (p65) ¨ Sule Shangri-la (p65) When to Go Oct–Feb Daytime heat is tolerable and evenings are often cool. Mar–May Hottest time of year. April’s Water Festival (Thingyan) can cause disruption to travel. Jun–Sep Wet season, but showers are often short and shouldn’t inconvenience; hotels are cheaper. J F D M A M J J A S O N Yangon °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 0 12/300 8/200 4/100 10/50 0/32 30/86 40/104 20/68 Yangon Why Go? With former political exiles, big-time investors and adventurers all jostling for a place at the city’s table, Yangon (ရန္ကုန္) is currently the most exciting place to be in Myanmar. Once known as Rangoon, the country’s largest metropolis is also its commercial and intellectual hub. And it’s reaping the benefits of Myanmar’s recent political and economic liberalisation. Decaying buildings and monuments are being spruced up. There’s a rash of new restaurants, bars and shops. And there are building sites – and traffic jams – everywhere. What really matters here, though, is what has always mattered, starting with the awe-inspiring Buddhist monument Shwedagon Paya, a golden pinnacle around which everything else revolves. Equally attractive is downtown Yangon, its pavements teeming with food and book vendors; colourful open-air markets; neighbouring temples, mosques and churches (living proof of the city’s cosmopolitanism); and some of Southeast Asia’s most impressive colonial architecture. Includes Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Festivals & Events. . . . 59 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Drinking & Nightlife. . . 75 Entertainment. . . . . . . .78 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . 78 #
Yangon Highlights 35 # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ £ ÿ# # # # æ æ æ # # # ú û # # # # # # ## # Ú – Ú Ø Ø Ø ØØ Ø Inya Lake Yangon River Hlaing River Pan Hlaing River Nga Moe Yeik Cre e k Kuon Ywa r Creek Sawa Factory Rd Bo Minn Yaung Rd Insein Rd Thudhamar St Pyay Rd Thitsar Rd Parami Rd Myittar Rd Kanbe Rd Pin Lon Rd Pyay Rd Wai Za Yan Tar Rd Pyi Htaung Main Rd Thin Gan Gyun Rd Ya Da Nar Rd Thanthumar R K d aba Aye Pagoda Rd Than Thu Mar Rd Pyay Rd Bayintnaung Rd Yamonnar Rd Yan Pyae St Gyogone Ywama Bauktaw Tamwe Ma Hlwa Gone Myittar Nyunt Hledan Hanthawady Thamaing Okkyin Thirimyaing Kamayut Kyemyindaing Panhlaing Ahlone Rd Yangon Pweseikkon Kyaukyedwin Tadakalay Yegu Parami Insein Kanbe Shan Rd Pazundaung MAYANGON BAHAN YANKIN DAGON SANCHAUNG KAMAYUT TAMWE MINGALA TAUNG NYUNT BOTATAUNG DAWBON INSEIN DAGON MYOTHIT NORTH OKKALAPA SOUTH HLAING OKKALAPA DOWNTOWN Yangon International Airport Thaketa Crocodile Farm Shwe Pu Zun Kyauk Daw Kyi Meilamu Paya Thu Ti Leithwei Boxing School Wadan Jetty Beer Station Pun Hlaing Golf Club Yangon Yoga House Yangon Airport Hotel Coconut & Banana Wholesale Market San Pya Fish Market Yangon Waterboom Asia Point Bowling Centre Mya Lay Yone Skatepark Journeys Myanmar *²5 National Museum #1 #8 C #6 haukhtatgyi Paya Shwedagon Paya #3 Markets £# £# #5 Kandawgyi Lake Dalah#4 Htwe Oo Myanmar Traditional Puppet Theatre#2 #7 Hla Day See Inya Lake & Greater Yangon Map (p52) See Shwedagon Paya & Around Map (p48) See Downtown East Map (p38) See Downtown West Map (p42) (4 B 3 a m g i o )D DNational Races Village (0.6mi) D Hlang Thar Yar ›#(3.1mi) Aun ›# g M ( i 1 n . g 9 a m la i) r D 0 2 km e# 0 1 miles 1 Shwedagon Paya (p45) Offering a prayer of wonder at the pyramid of gold. 2 Htwe Oo Myanmar Traditional Puppet Theatre (p78) Being charmed by a puppet performance. 3 National Museum (p39) Witnessing the treasures of Myanmar’s past. 4 Dalah (p51) Riding the ferry across the Yangon River to the rural neighbourhood of Dalah, best explored on a bicycle or photography tour. 5 Kandawgyi Lake (p51) Taking an early-morning or evening stroll on the boardwalk around the lake. 6 Chaukhtatgyi Paya (p51) Admiring the giant reclining Buddha. 7 Hla Day (p79) Shopping for souvenirs at socialenterprise shops. 8 Markets (p54) Getting off the beaten track at Yangon’s sensory-stimulating fish, coconut and banana markets. Yangon Highlights
Yangon Yang on Sights HIS TOR Y YANGON ရန်ကုန် History In 1755 King Alaungpaya conquered central Myanmar and built a new city at Dagon, a village that had existed for centuries around the Shwedagon Paya. He renamed the place Yangon, meaning ‘end of strife’, and, a year later, following the destruction of Thanlyin (Syriam) across the river, built it up into an important seaport. In 1841 the city was virtually destroyed by fire; the rebuilt town again suffered extensive damage during the Second AngloBurmese War in 1852. The British, the new masters, renamed the city Rangoon (a corruption of Yangon) and mapped out a grand building plan for what would become the capital of their imperial colony. By the 1920s Rangoon was thriving as a port and key stopover point for steamships in the region; notable international visitors included Rudyard Kipling, W Somerset Maugham, Aldous Huxley and HG Wells. In 1937 Amelia Earhart dropped in during the second of her attempts to fly around the world. The city was also the spawning ground for Burmese independence. When that independence came in 1948, Rangoon continued as the nation’s capital. However, its fortunes took a turn for the worse when military rule was imposed in 1962. The Burmese road to socialism as promulgated by General Ne Win and his cohorts drove Rangoon, like the rest of the country, to the brink of ruin. In 1989 the junta decreed the city would once again be known as Yangon. Six years later the military announced that the newly constructed city of Nay Pyi Taw in central Myanmar was to be the nation’s capital. Yangon again suffered as government ministries departed from the downtown area, leaving behind empty and uncared for state buildings. In late 2007 Yangon was the centre of huge nationwide fuel protests, which were led by Buddhist monks. The protests quickly escalated into antigovernment demonstrations, which resulted in the deaths of many protestors and worldwide condemnation. In May 2008 the worst natural disaster in Myanmar’s recent history, Cyclone Nargis, hit the south of the country. Yangon was declared a disaster area by the government. However, when reconstruction work began, it was found that most of the city had escaped major structural damage. By mid-June 2008, electricity and telecommunications were back to normal, and shops and restaurants had reopened with brand-new, corrugated-tin roofs. Since the 2010 elections, Yangon’s fortunes have skyrocketed along with its land prices, as both local and foreign investors scramble to grab a foothold here. A game-changer will be the Yangon–Dalah bridge connecting the city’s downtown to rural areas across the Yangon River: ground was broken on this in 2016 with the aim of completing the crossing by 2020. In the meantime, decades of economic stagnation and under-investment are only too apparent in the city’s slums and creaking, frequently overwhelmed infrastructure – something you’ll quickly realise as you crawl into town in a taxi from the airport. 1Sights Yangon is divided into 33 townships and addresses are usually suffixed with these (eg 3 Win Gabar Lane, Bahan). Back in the mists of time, Yangon was a village centred on Shwedagon Paya, but the British shifted its centre south towards Yangon River. This is Downtown Yangon. Shwedagon and nearby Kandawgyi Lake are covered mainly by Dagon and Bahan townships; in the latter is the area referred to as Golden Valley, a choice address for the city’s moneyed elite. Further north are more leafy areas surrounding Inya Lake and stretching up to Yangon International Airport. The city’s townships also spill south across the Yangon River to Dalah. 1 Downtown Yangon oBotataung Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE (ဗိုလ္တေထာင္ဘုရား; Map p38; Strand Rd, Botataung; US$5 or K6000; h6am-9.30pm) YANGON STREET NAMES The English terms ‘street’ and ‘road’ are often used interchangeably in Yangon for the single Burmese word làn. Hence, some local maps may read Shwegondine Rd, while others will say Shwe Gone Daing Rd or Shwe Gone Daing St; in Burmese, it’s simply Shwe Gone Daing Làn. We use the most common English version that travellers encounter. And as the previous examples demonstrate, different maps may also present the actual names of streets differently; eg Shwegondine Rd is Shwegondaing Rd on some local maps. 36
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Botataung’s spacious riverfront location and lack of crowds give it a more down-to-earth spiritual feeling than Shwedagon or Sule Paya. Its most original feature is the dazzling zig-zag corridor, gilded from floor to ceiling, that snakes its way around the hollow interior of the 131ft golden zedi (stupa). Look out for a bronze Buddha that once resided in the royal palace in Mandalay, and a large pond full of hundreds of terrapin turtles. The temple is named after the 1000 military leaders who escorted hair relics of the Buddha from India to Myanmar more than 2000 years ago. For one six-month period, this paya (religious monument) is said to have harboured eight strands of the Buddha’s hair before they were distributed elsewhere. A bomb from an Allied air raid in November 1943 scored a direct hit on the unfortunate paya. After the war the Botataung was rebuilt in a very similar style to its predecessor, but with one important and unusual difference: unlike most zedi, which are solid, the Botataung is hollow, and you can walk through it. There’s a gold leaf–coated maze inside the zedi, with glass showcases containing many of the ancient relics and artefacts, including small silver-and-gold Buddha images, which were sealed inside the earlier stupa. Reconstruction also revealed a small gold cylinder holding two small body relics and a strand of hair, said to belong to the Buddha, which is reputedly still in the stupa. On the northern side of the stupa is a hall containing a large gilded bronze Buddha, cast during the reign of King Mindon Min. At the time of the British annexation, it was kept in King Thibaw Min’s glass palace, but after King Thibaw was exiled to India, the British shipped the image to London. In 1951 the image was returned to Myanmar and placed in the Botataung Paya. In the southwest corner of the temple is a nat (spirit being) pavilion containing images of Thurathadi (the Hindu deity Saraswati, goddess of learning and music) and Thagyamin (Indra, king of the nat) flanking the thoroughly Myanmar nat Bobogyi. The terrapin turtle pool is in the southeast corner. Most of the turtles are fairly small, but every now and again a truly monstrous one sticks its head out of the water. Sule Paya BUDDHIST STUPA (ဆူးေလဘုရား; Map p42; cnr Sule Paya Rd & Mahabandoola Rd, Pabedan; K3000; h5am-9pm) It’s not every city where the primary traffic circle is occupied by a 2000-year-old golden temple. This 46m zedi, said to be older than YANGON IN ... Two Days Take a walking tour (p56) of downtown Yangon and drop by the gorgeous Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue (p40). Tour the National Museum (p39), followed by lunch at Feel Myanmar Food (p68). Take an afternoon stroll in People’s Park (p51) before ascending to Shwedagon Paya (p45) in time for sunset. Start day two at the riverside Botataung Paya (p36). Browse the traditional market Theingyi Zei (p54) and the more tourist-oriented Bogyoke Aung San Market (p54). Lunch at Rangoon Tea House (p69). Admire the giant reclining Buddha at the Chaukhtatgyi Paya (p51) and the gorgeous sitting Buddha at nearby Ngahtatgyi Paya (p51). An amble around part of Kandawgyi Lake (p51) can be followed by a performance by Htwe Oo Myanmar Traditional Puppet Theatre (p78). Four Days Hop on the ferry to Dalah (p51) to view the city from the Yangon River. Return to Yangon to visit the incense-clouded temple Kheng Hock Keong (p43) and then head to 19th St (p70) for a grilled-food feast. On day four, board the Yangon Circle Line (p59). Break your journey at Kyemyindaing to explore the Coconut & Banana Wholesale Market (p54) and Tadakalay for the kitsch, fun Meilamu Paya (p55). Eat at Taing Yin Thar (p74) or Minn Lane Rakhaing Monte & Fresh Seafood (p74), both at the north end of Inya Lake (p55). Head back downtown to live it up at Blind Tiger (p75) or Yangon Yangon (p75). 37
Yangon Yang on Sights IG 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 #£ # # # # # # # # # # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ # # # # # # # # # þ þ þ þ þ þ þ þ þ #ò #÷ # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # â á â â â â â â â â â â â â â # # # # # #ï î # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # f f f ú ú ú ý Ü ú ú ú í í í Ü ú û ú ú Þ ý ú ú ú ú ý û Ü ú ú ú ú ú ú ú ú ú û û ý ú ú #›#›#›#› # # Ú Ø BOTATAUNG MINGALA TAUNG NYUNT KYAUKTADA Yangon River Strand Rd GyoPhyuSt Bank St Sule Pagoda Rd Merchant St Pansodan St Bo Aung Kyaw St Bogyoke Aung San Rd Thein Byu Rd Anawrahta Rd Mahabandoola Rd Upper Pansodan St 34th St 33rd St 46th St 48th St 50th St U Pho Kyar St 94th St 101st St 44th St 47th St 36th St 35th St 43rd St 42nd St Bo Galay Zay St 41st St Bo Myat Tun St 49th St 51st S 3 t 7th St 38th St Seikkan Thar St 39th St 40th St Bo Min Yaung St Kun Chan St Mahabandoola Garden St Seikkan Thar St 39th St 40th St Bo Aung Kyaw St 37th St Thein Byu Rd Yangon Train Station Dalah Ferry Myanma Five Star Line Pansodan St Jetty AA Pharmacy 25 11 94 93 97 24 84 86 89 83 65 66 64 68 87 49 54 63 42 39 59 40 48 51 43 62 47 56 50 55 46 57 60 44 61 41 52 82 90 85 74 73 76 77 80 78 75 79 81 70 72 71 69 96 95 91 92 19 12 21 5 4 7 6 20 13 15 10 16 14 2 9 28 36 35 33 27 30 38 29 31 32 18 3 8 5 4 3 1 7 6 C D B C D E 2 5 4 3 1 7 6 2 B A A F E F Downtown East 38
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Shwedagon Paya, is an example of modern Asian business life melding with ancient Burmese tradition. Just after the sun has gone down is the most atmospheric time to visit the temple. The central stupa’s name, Kyaik Athok, translates in the Mon language as ‘the stupa where a Sacred Hair Relic is enshrined’. As with many other ancient Myanmar shrines, it has been rebuilt and repaired many times over the centuries. The gilded zedi is unusual in that its octagonal shape continues right up to the bell and inverted bowl. Near the north entrance look for the small golden karaweik (royal barge designed in the shape of a mythical bird), which you can load with a prayer card, then winch up a chain to deposit the card in a shrine higher up the stupa (K1000). The exterior base of the temple is surrounded by small shops and all the familiar nonreligious activities that seem to be a part of every zedi in Myanmar. Besides its significance as a landmark and meeting place, maybe its most mundane function is as a milestone from which all addresses to the north are measured. National Museum (Yangon) MUSEUM (အမ်ဳိးသားျပတိုက္; Map p42; %01-371 540; 66/74 Pyay Rd, Dagon; K5000; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Even though the museum’s collection is appallingly labelled and often badly lit, the treasures that lie within this cavernous building deserve a viewing. The highlight is the spectacular 26ft-high, jewelencrusted Sihasana (Lion Throne), which belonged to King Thibaw Min, the last king of Myanmar. It’s actually more of an entrance doorway than a throne but let’s not quibble – it’s more impressive than your front door. Further signs that the kings of old didn’t understand the meaning of the word ‘subtlety’ are the ornate beds, silver and gold rugs, flashy palanquins (one of which is palatial in size and splendour), ivory kitchen chairs, some breathtaking ceremonial dresses and a collection of betel-nut holders and spittoons. The upper-floor galleries, several of which were under renovation during our last visit, take you on an amble through natural history, prehistory, art and the cultures of Myanmar’s national races. The Buddha Images gallery on the 4th floor is well worth searching out. On the ground floor there’s a model of the colonial-era State House demolished in 1978; the chandeliers that hang on each floor of the museum are all that remain of it. # # ÿ ÿ # # # # # # # # ú Þ ú í ú ú ú û # # # # Ú Ø Ø Ø PAZUNDAUNG Pazundaung Canal Lower Pazundaung Rd Upper Pazundaung Rd Yay Kyaw Rd Strand Rd Botataung Pagoda Rd 53rd St 55th St 56th St 54th St 52nd St Botataung Pagoda Rd 51st St Merchant St Botataung Paya 22 23 26 17 67 53 45 58 88 1 34 37 5 4 3 1 7 6 C D B C D E 2 5 4 3 1 7 6 2 B A A F E F Downtown East e# 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles 39
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Mahabandoola Garden PARK (မဟာဗႏၶဳလပန္းျခံ; Map p38; Mahabandoola Garden St, Kyauktada; h6am-6pm)F This park offers pleasant strolling in the heart of the downtown area and views of surrounding heritage buildings including City Hall, the High Court and the old Rowe & Co department store, now a bank. The most notable feature in the Mahabandoola Garden is the Independence Monument (လြတ္လပ္ေရးေက်ာက္တိုင္), a 165ft white obelisk surrounded by two concentric circles of chinthe (half-lion, half-dragon deity). There’s also a children’s playground. When laid out by the British in 1868, the park was called Fytche Sq after Sir Albert Fytche, chief commissioner at the time. Later it was renamed Victoria Park to commemorate the queen whose statue used to stand where the Independence Monument is today. After Independence, the park was renamed to honour General Thado Mahabandoola, a Burmese hero who conquered Assam and died in the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1824. For a year or two following the 1988–90 prodemocracy uprisings, the park was occupied by soldiers; many of the more violent events of the time took place nearby. Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue SYNAGOGUE (Map p42; %01-252 814; 85 26th St, Pabedan; h10am-1pm Mon-Sat) The lovingly maintained interior of this 1896 building contains a bimah (platform holding the reading table for the Torah) in the centre of the main sanctuary and a women’s balcony upstairs. The wooden ceiling features the original blueand-white Star of David motif. It’s best to contact Sammy Samuels at info@myanmar shalom.com to be sure of gaining access to the synagogue. The synagogue was once the focal point of an influential community of Sephardic Jews from India and Baghdad that at its height in the early 20th century numbered 2500. Very occasionally (usually on Jewish high holidays) services are held in the synagogue, which has one of the Yangon Heritage Trust’s blue plaques. Downtown East æ Top Sights 25 Yangon Circle Line ..................................A3 1 Botataung Paya .......................................E6 26 Yangon Rhythm.......................................E7 æ Sights ÿ Sleeping 2 491-501 Merchant St.............................. B5 27 Aung Tha Pyay Hotel ..............................B5 3 Armenian Apostolic Church of St 28 Beautyland Hotel II..................................A3 John the Baptist................................... B5 29 Chan Myaye Guest House......................A3 4 Ayeyarwady Bank................................... A4 30 East Hotel.................................................A3 5 City Hall.................................................... A4 31 Hotel @ Yangon Heritage.......................A4 6 Customs House ...................................... A6 32 Kempinski Yangon Hotel........................A6 7 High Court................................................ A5 33 May Fair Inn..............................................B5 8 Immanuel Baptist Church ..................... A5 34 Mother Land Inn 2...................................F4 9 Independence Monument..................... A5 35 New Aye Yar Hotel...................................B5 10 Inland Waterways Department............. A6 36 Panorama Hotel.......................................B3 11 Mahabandoola Garden .......................... A5 Strand Hotel....................................(see 19) 12 Ministers Office.......................................C4 37 Three Seasons Hotel...............................E5 13 Myanma Port Authority .........................A6 38 Yama Dormitory......................................D4 14 Myanma Post & Telecommunications .......................... A5 ú Eating 15 Myanmar Agricultural 39 999 Shan Noodle Shop...........................A4 Development Bank..............................A6 40 Be Le .........................................................B6 16 Sofaer's Building..................................... B5 41 Bein Mont Vendor...................................D3 17 Sri Varada Raja Perumal 42 Bharat Restaurant...................................B4 Temple ...................................................E4 43 Buthi Kyaw Vendor .................................C4 18 St Mary's Cathedral................................C3 44 Fat Ox Bar.................................................D4 19 Strand Hotel ............................................B6 Gekko...............................................(see 16) 20 Yangon Divisional Court ........................ A6 45 Green Gallery ...........................................E5 21 Yangon Heritage Trust...........................A6 46 Gringos Chalingos...................................B4 47 LinkAge.....................................................B5 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 48 Lucky Seven.............................................D4 22 Dora ...........................................................E7 49 Man Myo Taw Café..................................B5 23 Royal Green River....................................E7 50 Menya Koi Nobori....................................A3 24 Uncharted Horizons...............................D4 51 Monsoon...................................................C6 40
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Ministers Office HISTORIC BUILDING (Secretariat; Map p38; 300 Thein Byu Rd, Kyauktada) Although currently closed to the public, it’s worth making a circuit of this spectacular red-brick complex, which takes up a 16-acre block. Built in stages between 1889 and 1905, the Secretariat was the British seat of government for Burma. General Aung San and six of his colleagues were assassinated here in 1947. The complex also housed independent Burma’s first National Assembly. When the capital moved to Nay Pyi Taw in 2005, the building, renamed the Ministers Office, was mostly abandoned and its roof suffered damaged during Cyclone Nargis. A reprieve came in 2011 when the Ministry of Construction selected it as one of five key Yangon heritage buildings to undergo renovations. A private group has since taken over the lease and plans include a cultural centre and historical museum, which will include Aung San’s old office and the room where he was gunned down. This section is open to the public once a year on Martyrs’ Day. It’s likely to be years before the barbed wire comes down and the public can once again enter the grounds and view the building from the flame tree–shaded lawns surrounding it. A technical study has put the cost of full restoration of the 400,000-sq-ft building at at least US$100 million. Strand Hotel HISTORIC BUILDING (Map p38; www.hotelthestrand.com; 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada) Opened in 1901, and run by the famed Sarkies brothers (they also owned Raffles in Singapore and the Eastern and Oriental in Penang), this historic hotel in its early years hosted the likes of Rudyard Kipling, George Orwell and W Somerset Maugham. The hotel was built by Turkish-Armenian contractor Tigran Nierces Joseph Catchatoor, who is buried around the corner in the cemetery next to the Armenian Church of St John the Baptist (p45). In 1913 an annex was built next door; this now houses the Australian Embassy. During WWII, the Japanese took over the 52 Mote Lin Ma Yar Vendor........................ B5 Lokanat Gallery...............................(see 16) 53 Myaung Mya Daw Cho ............................E4 Myanhouse......................................(see 16) 54 Nam Kham Family Shan Myanm/art.....................................(see 55) Restaurant............................................B4 75 Myanmar Deitta.......................................C6 55 Pansuriya ................................................. C5 76 Pansodan Gallery ....................................B3 56 Rangoon Tea House............................... A5 77 Pomelo for Myanmar..............................C6 57 Rasa Lasa..................................................C1 78 River Gallery.............................................B6 58 Rau Ram....................................................E2 79 Run YGN ...................................................B4 Sharky's ..........................................(see 56) 80 Tip-Top Tailors ........................................C5 59 Shwe We Htun......................................... B5 81 Wired on 39..............................................B4 60 The Taj.......................................................A1 61 Tin Tin.......................................................C5 ï Information 62 Union Bar & Grill......................................B6 82 Australian Embassy................................B6 63 Yatha Teashop ........................................ B5 83 Ayarwaddy Legend Travels & Tours......................................................B6 û Drinking & Nightlife 84 Diethelm Travel .......................................C5 64 7th Joint Bar & Grill................................. D5 85 Indian Embassy .......................................A5 65 50th Street Bar & Grill............................ D5 86 Khiri Travel ...............................................C6 66 Blind Tiger................................................ B5 87 Ministry of Hotels & Tourism 67 Fahrenheit.................................................E3 Tourist Information Centre.................A5 Strand Bar ......................................(see 19) 88 Philippine Embassy................................. F2 68 Yangon Yangon....................................... A3 89 SST Tours................................................. A1 90 UK Embassy.............................................B6 ý Entertainment 69 Bogyoke Aung San Stadium ..................A1 ï Transport 70 Nay Pyi Daw Cinema .............................. A3 91 Elite Express.............................................A2 71 Pansodan Scene..................................... B4 92 Mandalar Minn.........................................A2 72 Thamada Cinema ................................... A2 93 Myanmar National Airlines.....................B6 94 Myanmar Railways Booking Office.......A3 þ Shopping 95 Shwe Mandalar........................................A2 73 Bagan Book House................................. B5 96 Teht Lann Express ..................................A2 74 Bookstalls ................................................ B5 97 Yangon Train Station..............................A2 Hla Day............................................(see 56) 41
Yangon Yang on Sights IG running of the Strand, which they renamed the Yamato Hotel. Burmese nationals were allegedly not allowed to stay in the hotel until 1945. From 1962 to 1989, in what was quite possibly its darkest period, the Strand was owned and managed by the Burmese government. In 1979 when Tony Wheeler reviewed the Strand for the first edition of this guidebook, he found a ‘tatty and dilapidated’ colonial relic where you were more likely to encounter rats than a soft bed and a hot shower. # # £ £ #ý # # # # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ #ò #æ # # t â # # # # # î # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # f f f f ú í ú í ú í í ý í ú û û ú ú ú Yangon River Myoma Ground 7th St 11th St Thantaman Rd 15th St 19th St 23rd St 22nd St Bo Ywe Rd 21st St 5th St Min Ye Kyaw Swar Rd Pyidaungsu Yeiktha St Kin Won Min Gyi St 4th St Samon Rd 9th St 17th St 13th St Kaingdan St Myoma Kyaung Rd Lanma Daw St Madaw Rd Za Ga War Rd Latha St Lan Thit St Pyay Rd Shwedagon Pagoda Rd Bogyoke Aung San Rd Anawrahta Rd Hledan St Wadan St Za Ga War Rd Padonma Rd Strand Rd Mahabandoola Rd U Wisara Rd Ziwaka St Phone Gyi St Pyay Rd Lanmada LANMADAW DAGON LATHA IWT Ticket Office Lan Thit Jetty Yangon General Hospital Basic Education High School 2 Dagon American Center Shwe Pyi Tan Express Sin Oh Dan Jetty 65 67 41 1 35 46 38 70 71 72 73 74 4 55 7 22 14 19 13 15 69 52 53 24 18 12 31 33 40 5 4 3 1 6 C D B C D E 2 5 4 3 1 6 2 B A A F E F Downtown West DThink Asia Travel & Tours (800m) 42
Yangon Yang on Sights IG In 1993, the Strand was brought back to something of its former glory under the supervision of Adrian Zecha, founder of the Aman Resorts. In 2016 it was closed again for several months for a head-to-toe refurbishment that will eventually see an entirely new section added to the hotel’s rear. Yangon Heritage Trust HISTORIC BUILDING (YHT; Map p38; %01-240 544; www.yangon heritagetrust.org; 22/4 Pansodan St, Kyauktada; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) F The small gallery of historic photographs here gives an idea of how downtown Yangon used to look. There’s a great view of lower Pansodan St’s grand facades from the open balcony, particularly of the bomb-damaged Yangon Region Court and the art-deco Myanmar Economic Bank 2 opposite. It also organises heritage walking tours (US$30 per person, minimum of five people) covering three different circuits around downtown. Kheng Hock Keong TAOIST TEMPLE (Map p42; 426-432 Strand Rd, Latha; h5am-9pm) F Supported by a Hokkien association, Yangon’s largest Chinese (Taoist) temple is most lively from around 6am to 9am when it’s thronged with worshippers offering candles, flowers and incense to the Buddhist and Taoist altars within. The temple is dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu, who occupies the central altar and is flanked to the right by Guan Gong, the embodiment of loyalty and bravery, and on the left by Bao Sheng Da Di, the god of medicine. St Mary’s Cathedral CHURCH (Map p38; %01-245 647; www.yangonarchdiocese. org; 372 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Botataung; hMass 6am & 5pm, plus 8am & 10am Sun) Myanmar’s largest Catholic cathedral is an impressive red-brick building dating to 1909. The neo-Gothic design is mainly down to Dutch architect Jos Cuypers, who modified a more Byzantine structure created by Henry Hoyne-Fox. The floridly decorated interior with its red-, white- and green-brick patterns and painted statues is quite an eye-opener. Holy Trinity Cathedral CHURCH (Map p42; 446 Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Dagon) Yangon’s principal Anglican church was designed by India-based architect Robert Fellowes Chisholm. The red-brick-painted neo-Gothic structure took nine years to construct, opening in 1895. It has minimal concessions to its tropical location such as the roofed entrance to provide some protection from rain. Those interested in WWII should look for the Forces Chapel dedicated to Allied forces who perished during the conflict in Burma. Regimental crests decorate its walls. There’s also a Regiments Memorial to the Chindits (an Allied Special Forces) at the southeastern edge of the cathedral compound. #£ # # # # # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ # # # # # # ## þ # þ þ þ þ þ þþ þ # # # à â â # # # # î ß ß # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # Þ ú ú ú ú û ú ú ú û Ü ú û í ú ú ú ü ú ú #Ú Zoological Garden Na Wa Day St 25th St 24th St 23rd St Yaw Min Gee St 30th St Bo Yar Nyunt St 31st St 29th St Pan Tra St 28th St 27th St Bo Min Gaung St Shwedagon Pagoda Rd Shwe Bontha St Merchant St Sule Pagoda Rd Ah Lan Paya Rd Pha Yar Rd Theingyi Plaza PABEDAN Pun Hlaing International Clinic 8 49 54 6 37 29 48 43 44 34 39 9 57 56 61 63 60 16 23 27 21 17 3 30 50 66 32 68 2 36 42 5 59 20 25 62 26 47 28 64 51 10 58 45 11 5 4 3 1 6 C D B C D E 2 5 4 3 1 6 2 B A A F E F Downtown West 0 500 m e# 0 0.25 miles 43
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Sri Varada Raja Perumal Temple HINDU TEMPLE (Map p38; 135-137 51st St, Botataung; h6.30- 11.30am & 6-8.30pm) Dedicated to Vishnu, this lavishly decorated Hindu temple dates from 1928 and was built by the Indian businessman Dr S Ramanatha Reddiar. It has the classic South Indian gopuram style of entrance tower covered with Hindu deities. The temple’s main festival is a 10-day event in May or June and includes a flower procession. Sri Kali HINDU TEMPLE (Map p42; 295 Konezdan Rd, Pabedan; h5-11am & 3-9pm) Devoted to the Hindu goddess Kali, this temple was built in 1871 before the flood of Indian migrants came to the city during British colonial rule. It features a highly decorative gopuram. Also look for the flocks of pigeons resting on overhead power lines, evoking Hitchcock’s The Birds! This is one of the locations for Thaipusam (p62), the festival famous for colourful street processions featuring acts of ritual self-mutilation. Downtown West æ Sights 40 Kaung Myat.............................................D5 1 Dargah of Bahadur Shah Zafar..............D1 41 Kosan Cafe..............................................D5 2 Former Ministry of Hotels & Tourism ...F6 42 Le Petit Comptoir................................... F3 3 Holy Trinity Cathedral ............................E4 43 New Delhi................................................E5 4 Kheng Hock Keong................................ D6 44 Nilar Biryani & Cold Drink...................... F5 5 Mogul Shia Mosque................................F6 45 Samusa Thoke Vendor.......................... F6 6 Musmeah Yeshua Synagogue...............E6 46 Shan Yoe Yar ..........................................A4 7 National Museum (Yangon)...................B1 47 Summer Palace...................................... F4 8 Sri Kali .....................................................E5 48 Thone Pan Hla ........................................ F5 9 Sule Paya.................................................F6 10 Surti Sunni Jamah Mosque ...................E6 û Drinking & Nightlife 11 Yangon Stock Exchange ........................F6 49 Bar Boon ................................................. F4 50 Black Hat................................................. F5 ÿ Sleeping 51 Cafe Genius ............................................ F4 12 4 Rivers Youth Hostel............................ B5 52 Hummingbird .........................................C5 13 Agga Youth Hotel................................... B5 53 Kosan Double Happiness Bar ...............D5 14 Belmond Governor's Residence............A1 Press Office .................................. (see 32) 15 Best Western Chinatown Hotel ............ C5 54 Shwe Bali ................................................ F5 16 Loft Hotel.................................................F3 17 May Shan Hotel ......................................F5 ý Entertainment 18 MGM Hotel ............................................. A4 55 National Theatre ....................................D3 19 New Yangon Hotel................................. B5 20 Okinawa (2) Guest House......................F6 þ Shopping 21 Okinawa Guest House............................F6 56 Bogyoke Aung San Market....................E4 22 Panda Hotel............................................ A3 57 Gallery Sixty Five....................................E3 23 Parkroyal Yangon ...................................F3 Globe Tailoring .............................(see 36) 24 RGN City Lodge ..................................... B3 58 Heritage Gallery ..................................... F4 25 Scott........................................................F4 59 Myanmar Yanant Textile .......................E4 26 Sule Shangri-la .......................................F4 60 New Zero Art Space............................... F3 27 White House Hotel..................................E6 61 Parkson Mall ........................................... F4 28 Willow Inn ................................................F6 62 Shinon Myanmar....................................E4 63 Theingyi Zei ............................................E5 ú Eating Turquoise Mountain 29 Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Jewellery .....................................(see 14) Restaurant ...........................................F3 64 Yo Ya May ............................................... F4 30 Bijin..........................................................F3 Burmese Sweets Vendors ........... (see 61) ï Information 31 Cherry Mann .......................................... D5 65 Asian Trails ............................................. B1 32 Craft.........................................................E3 66 Canadian Embassy ................................ F6 33 Cyclo....................................................... C5 67 Columbus Travels & Tours....................A5 34 Danuphyu Daw Saw Yee Myanma 68 Discovery DMC.......................................E2 Restaurant ...........................................F4 69 Flymya.....................................................C5 35 Feel Myanmar Food................................B1 70 French Embassy..................................... B1 36 Golden Bell ..............................................F4 71 Indonesian Embassy.............................. B1 37 Golden Tea ..............................................F6 72 Lao Embassy ..........................................A2 38 Grilled Snack Stalls ............................... D5 73 Malaysian Embassy ............................... A1 39 Ingyin New South India Food Centre ....F5 74 Sri Lankan Embassy .............................. A1 44
Yangon Yang on Sights IG Armenian Apostolic Church of St John the Baptist CHURCH (Map p38; %01-242 318; www.yangonarmenian church.org; 66 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Kyauktada) Yangon’s oldest church, built in 1862 and consecrated a year later, served Yangon’s Armenian trading community, who have been in Myanmar since the 17th century. It’s a modest, sparsely decorated yet handsome building. Surti Sunni Jamah Mosque MOSQUE (Map p42; 149 Shwe Bontha St, Pabedan) Built in the 1860s, this is thought to be Yangon’s oldest surviving Muslim place of worship. Its pair of large minarets flanks an equally imposing arched entrance tower. 1 Shwedagon Paya & Around oShwedagon Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE (ေရႊတိဂုံဘုရား; Map p48; www.shwedagon pagoda.com; Singuttara Hill, Dagon; K8000; h4am10pm) One of Buddhism’s most sacred sites, the 325ft zedi here is adorned with 27 metric tons of gold leaf, along with thousands of diamonds and other gems, and is believed to enshrine eight hairs of the Gautama Buddha as well as relics of three former buddhas. Four entrance stairways lead to the main terrace. Visit in the cool of dawn if you want tranquillity. Otherwise, pay your respects when the golden stupa flames crimson and burnt orange in the setting sun. The following covers the history and layout of Shwedagon Paya. Guides (they’ll locate you before you can find them) can provide more details. Tour agencies can also arrange guides; a good, regularly scheduled tour, including the surrounding area, is offered by Khiri Travel (Map p38; %01-375 577; http://khiri. com; 1st fl, 5/9 Bo Galay Zay St, Botataung). ¨ History Legend has it that there’s been a stupa on Singuttara Hill for 2600 years, ever since two merchant brothers, Tapussa and Ballika, met the Buddha. He gave them eight of his hairs to take back to Myanmar, a land ruled by King Okkalapa. Okkalapa enshrined the hairs in a temple of gold, together with relics of three former buddhas, which was then enclosed in a temple of silver, then one of tin, then copper, then lead, then marble and, finally, one of plain iron-brick. Archaeologists suggest that the original stupa was built by the Mon people some time between the 6th and 10th centuries. In common with many other ancient zedi in earthquake-prone Myanmar, it has been rebuilt many times. During the Bagan (Pagan) period of Myanmar’s history (10th to 14th centuries), the story of the stupa emerged MAUSOLEUMS AROUND SHWEDAGON PAYA Several prominent Myanmar citizens are buried near Shwedagon Paya. Near the north entrance to the stupa is the Martyrs’ Mausoleum (အာဇာနည္ဗိမာန္; Map p48; Arzani St, Bahan; K3000; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun), housing the remains of General Aung San and the six comrades who were assassinated on 19 July 1947. The Soviet-style, red-painted concrete complex, surrounded by beautifully manicured grounds, was fully renovated in 2016 in time for Martyrs’ Day, the first to be celebrated by a government led by Aung San’s daughter. The original timber mausoleum was destroyed after a North Korean terrorist strike in 1983, which killed 20 people (but not the target, visiting South Korean general Chun Doo-Hwan). To the right of the entrance to the mausoleum look for the smaller, free Korean Martyrs Memorial commemorating those who died in the attack. South of the stupa along Shwedagon Paya Rd are four mausoleums. The one closest to the stupa is that of former UN secretary-general U Thant (ဦးသန္႔ဂူဗိမာန္; Map p48). A chapter in The River of Lost Footsteps by his grandson Thant Myint-U recounts the horrific details of U Thant’s burial in 1969 when students fought with the military and riots resulted in hundreds of dead, many more imprisoned and martial law being imposed. Next along is Suphayalat’s Mausoleum (စုဘုရားလတ္ဂူဗိမာန္; Map p48). Having been exiled to India with her husband and daughters in 1885, Burma’s last queen was allowed to return to Rangoon in 1919, three years after King Thibaw’s death, but was kept under house arrest by the British colonial authorities until her death in 1925. Bringing up the rear are the tombs of Aung San’s widow, Daw Khin Kyi (ေဒၚခင္ၾကည္ဂူဗိမာန္; Map p48), and the famous poet and intellectual Thakin Kodaw Hmaing (သခင္ကိုယ္ေတာ္မႈိုင္းဂူဗိမာန္; Map p48; Shwedagon Paya Rd, Dagon). 45
Museum Southern Covered Entrance Lower Terrace of Shwedagon Hti The stupa’s uppermost section is encrusted with 5448 diamonds, 2317 rubies, sapphires, and other gems, as well as 1065 golden bells. At the very top sparkles a single 76-carat diamond. Photo Gallery Displays snaps of Shwedagon dating back to the late 19th century. Close-ups of the jewelencrusted hti taken during one of the regular renovations of the pagoda reveal all of its glittering detail. Naungdawgyi Paya The ‘Elder Brother Pagoda’ stands on the site where Buddha’s eight hair relics were said to have rst been enshrined by the two merchant brothers who brought them for King Okkalapa. STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK © Planetary Posts Twelve of these represent the days of the week and the ascending node of the moon; follow locals by pouring water over the Buddha statue at the post that corresponds with the day of your birth. IMAGESEF/SHUTTERSTOCK © Stupa Rising 325ft, the stupa sits on an octagonal base with a bell-shaped dome and conicalshaped spire. Around the base four smaller stupa mark the cardinal directions, in between which are 64 smaller pagodas. PAUL D SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK © Chinthe 30ft-tall pairs of these legendary half-lion, halfdragon beasts guard each of the four covered walkways up Singuttara Hill to the paya’s central platform. M said to have enshrined merchan who broug King Shwedagon Inscription Dating to 1485, three sandstone slabs faintly inscribed in Pali, Mon and Burmese relate how the brothers Tapussa and Ballika brought the eight sacred hairs from the Buddha to Myanmar. C. NA SONGKHLA/SHUTTERSTOCK © MANJIK/SHUTTERSTOCK © 2 7 1 3 4 5 6 Northern Covered Entrance Shwedagon Paya WHAT TO LOOK FOR A pair of giant 1 Chinthe guard the southern covered entrance, from Shwedagon Pagoda Rd; of the four covered arcades leading up Singuttara Hill this is considered the main entrance. Halfway up, branch off in either direction for a peaceful stroll along the lower terrace of Shwedagon. Flanking this concrete footpath that encircles the hill are monasteries and resting houses for pilgrims. Continue around to the northern covered entrance, climb the final flights of steps and emerge onto the main terrace to a dazzling explosion of decoration. Ahead rises the golden 2 central stupa surrounded by 3 planetary posts, as well as many other shrines, tazaung (small pavilions) and religious statuary. In the terrace’s northeast corner an open-sided pavilion covering the 4 Shwedagon inscription stones stands in the shadow of the 5 Naungdawgyi Paya. For a close-up detail of the jewelencrusted 6 hti at the top of the central stupa view the gorgeous photos in the 7 photo gallery or use one of several telescopes dotted around the main terrace – there’s one outside Shwedagon’s small museum. TOP TIPS Arrive early morning or late afternoon towards sunset Monday to Friday. Dress respectfully and remove your shoes before entering the temple precincts. Walk clockwise around the stupa. The north gate and northwest corner between the Friday and Rahu planetary posts are prime photo spots. Shwedagon Paya-IH.indd All Pages 24/03/2017 3:10:01 PM
Yangon Yang on Sights Highlights Museum Southern Covered Entrance Lower Terrace of Shwedagon Hti The stupa’s uppermost section is encrusted with 5448 diamonds, 2317 rubies, sapphires, and other gems, as well as 1065 golden bells. At the very top sparkles a single 76-carat diamond. Photo Gallery Displays snaps of Shwedagon dating back to the late 19th century. Close-ups of the jewelencrusted hti taken during one of the regular renovations of the pagoda reveal all of its glittering detail. Naungdawgyi Paya The ‘Elder Brother Pagoda’ stands on the site where Buddha’s eight hair relics were said to have rst been enshrined by the two merchant brothers who brought them for King Okkalapa. STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK © Planetary Posts Twelve of these represent the days of the week and the ascending node of the moon; follow locals by pouring water over the Buddha statue at the post that corresponds with the day of your birth. IMAGESEF/SHUTTERSTOCK © Stupa Rising 325ft, the stupa sits on an octagonal base with a bell-shaped dome and conicalshaped spire. Around the base four smaller stupa mark the cardinal directions, in between which are 64 smaller pagodas. PAUL D SMITH/SHUTTERSTOCK © Chinthe 30ft-tall pairs of these legendary half-lion, halfdragon beasts guard each of the four covered walkways up Singuttara Hill to the paya’s central platform. M said to have enshrined merchan who broug King Shwedagon Inscription Dating to 1485, three sandstone slabs faintly inscribed in Pali, Mon and Burmese relate how the brothers Tapussa and Ballika brought the eight sacred hairs from the Buddha to Myanmar. C. NA SONGKHLA/SHUTTERSTOCK © MANJIK/SHUTTERSTOCK © 2 7 1 3 4 5 6 Northern Covered Entrance Shwedagon Paya WHAT TO LOOK FOR A pair of giant 1 Chinthe guard the southern covered entrance, from Shwedagon Pagoda Rd; of the four covered arcades leading up Singuttara Hill this is considered the main entrance. Halfway up, branch off in either direction for a peaceful stroll along the lower terrace of Shwedagon. Flanking this concrete footpath that encircles the hill are monasteries and resting houses for pilgrims. Continue around to the northern covered entrance, climb the final flights of steps and emerge onto the main terrace to a dazzling explosion of decoration. Ahead rises the golden 2 central stupa surrounded by 3 planetary posts, as well as many other shrines, tazaung (small pavilions) and religious statuary. In the terrace’s northeast corner an open-sided pavilion covering the 4 Shwedagon inscription stones stands in the shadow of the 5 Naungdawgyi Paya. For a close-up detail of the jewelencrusted 6 hti at the top of the central stupa view the gorgeous photos in the 7 photo gallery or use one of several telescopes dotted around the main terrace – there’s one outside Shwedagon’s small museum. TOP TIPS Arrive early morning or late afternoon towards sunset Monday to Friday. Dress respectfully and remove your shoes before entering the temple precincts. Walk clockwise around the stupa. The north gate and northwest corner between the Friday and Rahu planetary posts are prime photo spots. Shwedagon Paya-IH.indd All Pages 24/03/2017 3:10:01 PM
Yangon Yang on Sights IG from the mists of legend to become hard fact. Near the top of the eastern stairway is a brick inscribed with the date 1485. In the 15th century, the tradition of gilding the stupa began. Queen Shinsawbu, who was responsible for many improvements to the stupa, provided her own weight (88lb) in gold, which was beaten into gold leaf and used to cover the structure. Her son-in-law, Dhammazedi, went several better, offering four times his weight and that of his wife in gold. In 1612 Portuguese renegade adventurer Filipe de Brito e Nicote raided the stupa from his base in Thanlyin and carried away Dhammazedi’s 300-ton bell, with the intention of melting it for cannons. As the British were to do later with another bell, he accidentally dropped it into the river where it remains. During the 17th century, the monument suffered earthquake damage on eight occasions. Worse was to follow in 1768, when a quake brought down the whole top of the zedi. King Hsinbyushin had it rebuilt to virtually its present height, and its current configuration dates from that renovation. British troops occupied the compound for two years immediately after the First AngloBurmese War in 1824. In 1852, during the Second Anglo-Burmese War, the British again took the paya, the soldiers pillaged it once more and it remained under military control for 77 years, until 1929. Prior to the British takeover of southern Myanmar there had been defensive earthworks around the paya, but these were considerably extended by the British. The emplacements for their cannons can still be seen outside the outer wall. In 1871 the provision of a new hti (the umbrella-like decorative top of a stupa) by King Mindon Min from Mandalay caused considerable head-scratching for the British, who were not at all keen for such an association to be made with the still-independent part of Myanmar. * * * * * # # # # # £ £ £ £ £ # # # # # # # # # # # ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ ÿ # # # # # # þ þ þ þ þ þ # # # # æ æ æ æ # # ÷ ÷ # # # â â â # # # ## # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # ú üú ú ú í ú ý ú ú û û í í í í í ú ú û í ú ú ú ú ú û û û ú ý í # # # # # # Ú Ø Ú Ø Ø Ø BAHAN SANCHAUNG DAGON Fence Bahan St Sayar San Rd Ko Min Ko Chin St Ahlone Rd Dhama Zedi Rd Ar Za Nir St Baho Rd Bargaryar St Inya Rd Pyay Rd Zoological Garden St U Htaung Bo St Pyay Rd U Wi Za Ra Rd Aung Min Khaung St Win Ga Bar St Tha Tone Rd Shin Saw Pu Rd Than Lwin Rd Inya Mya ni g Rd Baho Rd Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd Shwe Taung Gyar Rd (Golden Valley Rd) Ah Lan Paya Rd Kanbawza St Kyemyindaing Hanthawady Panhlaing Ahlone Rd People's Park Shwedagon Paya 24 18 21 23 3 12 22 20 82 77 62 63 61 58 55 10 11 14 6 52 51 40 44 42 48 43 46 53 39 49 41 45 54 75 79 83 84 85 76 4 9 72 69 70 71 73 74 65 64 13 15 7 56 28 25 38 37 36 34 26 32 33 30 31 81 4 60 3 1 C D B C D E 2 4 3 1 2 B A A F E F Shwedagon Paya & Around 48