Orloff Magazine 2014

A TUFTS COMMUNICATIONS FINE JE WELRY PUBLICATION

MAGAZINE

Orloff Jewelers partners
with Children’s Hospital
Redesign Your Treasures
Red Carpet Ready

David Yurman’s World of Beauty
The Incomparable Lauren Bacall

Shhhh...
You’re one of a select few chosen
to receive our debut issue!

AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2014 • ISSUE 1

BEING A KID W

IS AN IMPORTANT JOB.

Right now, painting pictures is something he does for fun.
Tomorrow, it might just be a hobby.
But someday, it will be the thing he’s known for.
And Children’s Hospital Central California wants him to get there.
That’s why we have the best doctors and nurses trained to work
speci cally with kids, using the best equipment designed just for kids.

He may never need to go to the hospital. But if he does…
Children’s stands ready to return him to the business of being a kid.

9300 Valley Children’s Place ChildrensCentralCal.org
Madera, CA 93636-8762
559.353.3000

ORLOFF JEWELERS MAGAZINE • AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2014

W Warmest personal greetings from all of us at Orloff Jewelers. Each year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our
vision and passion that is translated into our exquisite jewelry. Please enjoy our debut issue of Orloff Jewelers Magazine.
Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our
standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance in a
pleasant manner, to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our commitment to our cus-
tomers and each other. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as customers, but leave
as members of the Orloff family.
Couture jewelry retailers make up only one half of one percent of all jewelers in the country. We are proud to be recognized as one
of those jewelers. As a couture jeweler, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned design-
ers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most unique styles and designs, made with the highest level
of craftsmanship. The result is jewelry that is not only fashionable and chic, but also destined to become the classics and heirlooms of
tomorrow. At Orloff Jewelers, you don’t have to settle for the ordinary because you can attain the extraordinary.
The Orloff family and staff welcome the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give special meaning to
your life. We treasure the experience of being part of your celebrations, from generation to generation.
Each year we find ourselves challenged to stay ahead of the latest trends, not only in jewelry and watches, but in technology as well.
Technology has changed our daily lives, allowing for greater convenience and up-to-the-minute communication. Along those lines, take
time to visit our website at orloffjewelers.com
Finally, beyond our dedication to customer service, quality and integrity, Orloff Jewelers is committed to serving and generously giving
back to the community. We are proud to be charitable partners with many local and national non-profit agencies and service organizations,
and want to take this time to thank you for helping make contributions possible, and for including us in so many of your events.
In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and
friends for a long time. In fact, next year will mark our 60th year serving the Fresno community! We are grateful for your continuing
friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing your personal celebrations. We look forward to seeing you
again real soon!
With gratitude,
James and Mary Ann Orloff

770 W. SHAW AVENUE #101 • FRESNO, CALIFORNIA 93704
(559) 221-6622 • ORLOFFJEWELERS.COM

contents
ISSUE ONE • ORLOFF JEWELERS MAGAZINE

p48

3 Welcome 23 How to Serve Your Pinot Noir 44 Guardians of the Estate
6 Orloff Jewelers — The Royal Treatment 24 Kwiat — 100 Years of Diamonds 46 Monelle Designs —Unmatched
10 How to Choose a Jeweler 26 50 is the New 30 48 Sparkling Sophistication
12 David Yurman’s World of Beauty 30 Gorgeous Gold 50 Your Orloff Wedding Planner
13 Mercedes-Benz of Fresno 32 Jewelry Trend Report 58 Ball — The Watch That Rocks
14 All for a Good Cause 36 Gabriel & Co.’s Fashion Focus 60 Womenswear —The Trend
16 TAG Heuer Times the Races 38 Culinary Delight: Sausalito Dining 64 The Power of Color
18 The New Audi A8 40 Man About Town 66 The Ultimate Jewelry Professional
22 Pearl Trends 42 The Incomparable Lauren Bacall

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director

Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Kyle Boyer • Art Director

Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer

Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography

*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

Orloff Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012
T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

THE KWI AT D I A M O N D TA G C O L L E C TI O N

by CAROL BESLER

Orloff Jewelers

The Prince of Jewelers gives clients the royal treatment

Orloff Jewelers was founded in Fresno, California, in 1955 by Paul Gurhan and Michael M. In addition, Orloff Jewelers has an extensive
“Prince” Orloff, a renowned businessman known for his personal custom jewelry design department. Fine timepiece brands include
touch and refined taste. His nickname originated from a conversation TAG Heuer, Ball Watch and David Yurman — Orloff Jewelers is
with a client, a professor of Russian Studies at Fresno State Univer- the exclusive provider of David Yurman watches and jewelry in the
sity who told him about the Russian Orloff family, including Prince Central Valley.
Nikolay Alexeyevich Orlov, and their connection to the Tsars of
Russia. The nickname stuck, and Paul renamed the business “Prince “I am also very proud of our Crown 500 Collection,” says Mary
Orloff Crown Jewels.” When he retired in 1988, his son James and Ann Orloff. “It is our most accessible line, and represents luxury for
daughter-in-law Mary Ann changed the name of the business to everyone.” The Crown 500 Collection is a selection of fine sterling
James Orloff the Jeweler, and in 1994, it became Orloff Jewelers. silver jewelry by various manufacturers that is priced under $500.
Mary Ann and James retained Prince Paul’s personal touch and keen It is all hand picked by Orloff’s staff to represent quality, popular,
eye, building their business from humble beginnings. “We started in trendy affordable gifts, and self purchases. Orloff Jewelers is the
a 175-sq.-ft. office with two desks and a safe,” says James. “We later exclusive provider of Endless Jewelry.
moved into 600 square feet, with two desks, a safe, a steamer and an
extra room.” The business has grown exponentially since then, and The store is also known for its custom jewelry, with James as
is now located in a 5,400-sq.-ft. store in Fig Garden Village. the key designer. “I am also the chief cook and bottle washer,” adds
James, who had worked at his father’s side since he was a young boy,
Orloff Jewelers carries more than 20 prestigious lines of jewelry, going in to the store after school and on weekends. “I started out
including Kwiat, Charles Garnier, Crown Collection, Imperial Pearl, sweeping floors, cleaning windows and polishing jewelry,” he says
proudly. “When you grow up in the industry, as I did, it becomes a

]6 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

“Every piece has to meet a level of quality, even the most basic jewelry.”

part of your life. It has to be in your veins like blood, otherwise it’s under magnification, whether we’re buying it for our showcases or
no fun.” When he was 15, James passed his first diamond grading taking a piece in from a client for repair.” It’s this attention to detail
class at the Gemological Institute of America. He obtained his Grad- that has earned Orloff Jewelers membership in the American Gem
uate Gemology diploma in residence from GIA in 1979, and became Society, placing them in the top 5% of jewelry stores in the nation.
a certified gemologist by the American Gem Society (AGS) in 2001.
He is a past president of the California Jewelers Association, a se- “Every piece has to meet a level of quality, even the most basic
nior appraiser with the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, a jewelry.” Has he ever sent pieces back to the supplier? Of course.
member of the Jewelers of America, and a member of the American “And they get it,” says James. “It only takes one or two times before
Gem Society. His expertise as an appraiser and custom jewelery de- their quality control changes. He is quick to add: “We have a good
signer is recognized across the country. relationship with our suppliers, and that results in high quality stan-
dards for the jewelry they supply to us, and it also means we can
“The signature element of everything we offer is quality,” says source special pieces that are very exclusive. Our vendors play an im-
James. “We make sure every item is made with workmanship of the portant role in our business.” The Orloffs are, in turn, loyal to their
highest quality and that the quality is consistent. We ask that our suppliers. “I am now dealing in some cases with the grandchildren of
clients bring their jewelry in twice a year for a complimentary check the owners of vendors I have dealt with for years,” says James. “I can
and cleaning to keep their guarantee up.” remember them when they were six years old. And they still have
the same ethics and values.”
That guarantee of quality extends to the staffing policy. “We are
constantly striving to be more professional,” says James. “All of our The Orloffs, in turn, serve the children and grandchildren of the
staff hold titles from GIA or AGS. Barbara Barletta is GIA certified loyal clients they have worked with over the years. “Trust and integ-
in diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, and synthetics, and is a pro- rity are paramount in this industry,” says James. “It’s a very special
fessional sales associate from both GIA and AGS. She is also an AGS feeling when I’m helping a second- or even third-generation cus-
sales associate, a TAG Heuer certified sales associate, and has 32 years tomer. When that happens, you know you’re doing something right.”
in the jewelry business. Chaleena Perez has completed the GIA jew-
elry essentials, diamond essentials and color certifications, and is a “What inspires me most of all about the jewelry business is the
GIA professional sales associate and an AGS sales associate, with TAG loving and happy relationships that stem from it,” he says. “With
Heuer certification and 12 years in the jewelry business. Cliff Shannon every piece of jewelry, there is a story behind it that leads to love.
is an AGS certified sales associate, and is GIA certified in the areas of The jewelry industry is not just about jewelry; it ranges from the
diamonds and color. He has 38 years in the jewelry business. Melodie artistry of the jewelry to the humanity of the relationships.”
McColm has completed GIA diamond essentials certification, and has
three years of experience in the jewelry business. Veronica Wall is a That sentiment also applies to the partnership between James
professional sales associate and diamonds essential GIA with three and his wife, Mary Ann. “She is the champion of our company,”
years in the jewelry business. says James. “Not only is she a full partner, handling all the business
of the store, while raising our kids, she is very involved in several
“Our customer deserves the best, not just in jewelry, diamonds, charities. She sits on three or four boards, and puts a lot of energy
essentials, and gifts, but also in staff,” says James. “We are very me- into our community.” Orloff Jewelers is committed to supporting
ticulous in what we do and how we do it. We inspect every piece several charities in the Central Valley. To name a few: St. Agnes
Medical Center Foundation, Children’s Hospital Central California,

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 7

CASA (Court Appointed Special Advocates), Camp Taylor, All About were exchanged, and the ring fit perfectly. “We had a great four days in
Care, Valley Animal Shelter and many more. Mary Ann Orloff’s particu- St. Lucia,” recalls James.
lar passions are children and animals. “We take every opportunity we can
to donate our time, funds or jewelry for auctions that support charities, This kind of dedication to service perhaps warrants a resurrection of the
particularly for children or animals,” says Mary Ann. “Prince Orloff” nickname, with the added “Mary Ann the Great.”

The Orloff’s dedication to their community is mirrored in the store’s
high level of service for customers, and in some cases that dedication
goes above and beyond the call of duty. James and Mary Ann recall one
adventure that stemmed from a text message they received from a client
while they were on a buying trip in New York City. “The client, who was
in St. Lucia, had decided to get married, and wanted us to help him price
a couple of diamonds,” recalls James. “He told us what he was looking
at and gave us the prices he was quoted. Sensing something was fishy
about the quote, Mary Ann said: ‘you’d better call him.’ I agreed, and I
told him not to do anything until I investigated. I hit the diamond district
the next morning, a Thursday, and found a couple of gems that were less
expensive and had better quality certificates than the ones he described,”
says James. The client asked, “Can I see them tomorrow?”

“The only way that was going to happen was if Mary Ann and I per-
sonally delivered the diamonds to the Caribbean,” says James. On Friday,
the Orloffs had their passports delivered to them from California, and
by Saturday, they were on a plane to St. Lucia. By 3 p.m. that day, they
presented the diamonds to the client at the resort where he was staying —
“We had them mounted, just in case,” says James. The client chose one,
and asked James to be his best man. At sunset that same day, the vows

]8 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



industry info by CAROL BESLER

You have probably heard the
adage: “If you don’t know

jewelry, know your jeweler.”

How to choose a jeweler

There is more to buying jewelry than clicking on a picture.

Y You have probably heard the adage: “If you don’t know jewelry, know tional recognition in the jewelry and watch industries for their extensive
your jeweler.” The truth is, it’s a good idea, even if you do know jewelry. selection, sterling reputation, exceptional service, integrity, philanthropy,
A reputable, knowledgeable jeweler makes the jewelry shopping process and successful growth. Through the years, the Orloffs have also been
easier, more enjoyable, and more successful. When you buy a piece of privileged to become the jeweler of choice for clientele throughout the
jewelry, you are investing in a work of art, a keepsake that you will be United States and around the world.
able to treasure forever as a memory of a milestone in your life — or Selection is another important criteria that defines a great jewelry
even just a celebration of life itself — and you want to make the right store. The Orloffs have worked hard to curate a selection that represents
decision. There are many factors to consider beyond simply choosing a world-renowned brands, as well as unique, one-of-a-kind items, and
style that appeals to you, including metal options, gemstone selection and some of the rarest diamonds and gemstones from around the globe. Aside
properties, colors, and even which brand is right for you. If you’re buying from top brands that include David Yurman, Kwiat, GURHAN, and Ball
a watch, there is also function to consider. Once you have made your Watch, Orloff represents many leading bridal jewelry designers, including
purchase, you want to be confident that it can be professionally serviced, Michael M. and Kwiat, as well as in-house experts and master jewelers
repaired, or cleaned. Above all, you want transparency and honesty in who can design and handcraft the ring or jewelry, of your dreams. “We
your transaction — someone who will advise and guide you rather than are not looking to simply sell jewelry in our store and online,” says James
just sell you what they want you to hear. Orloff “but to give our customers the highest level of professional guid-
Orloff Jewelers has become the jeweler to get-to-know in Fresno. “We ance and education necessary to make the best decisions when it comes to
like to form relationships with our clientele,” says Mary Ann Orloff. “We such important purchases.” Orloff Jewelers is also an authorized dealer for
go through a lot of life-cycle events in our customers’ lives.” Their expe- many of the worlds most prestigious and respected Swiss watch brands,
rience adds up to many years of expertise, hands-on jewelry making skills including Ball Watch USA, David Yurman, and TAG Heuer watches, also
and extensive knowledge of gemology and design. including vintage watches by Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Vacheron Con-
Orloff Jewelers has created a unique combination. While being a local stantin, and Gerard Perregeaux.
Fresno jewelry store, Orloff Jewelers receives national, as well as interna- Service is another important criteria in choosing a jeweler. Orloff

]10 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

provides custom design and various repair services, including sizing, and stress-free. If you want an engagement ring or jewelry that is designed
cleaning, remounting, re-polishing, as well as authorized watch repair and just for you, Orloff Jewelers will guide you from vision to fruition with
maintenance. The Orloffs have met all of the designers and manufactur- your own unique custom designed jewelry pieces.
ers they represent, in many cases visiting their premises abroad, so they The Orloff family and staff look forward to meeting you, and helping
are well-versed in the latest developments and technological advance- you to “know your jeweler” even better!
ments in the fine watch and jewelry industries, as well as the latest design
and manufacturing trends. Their advice carries a great deal of substance.
The Orloff family and staff go to great lengths to create a comfortable,
warm and inviting atmosphere. “We do not believe in putting pressure
on someone, especially when a significant purchase is being considered,”
says Mary Ann Orloff. “We maintain a non-pressure selling environment
where customers can take their time and make their own decisions with-
out a pushy salesperson hounding them. A customer’s confidence in their
purchase results in a higher level of customer satisfaction.”
Finally, it is important to choose a jeweler with roots in the commu-
nity, someone that extends its family values to neighbors, friends and
complete strangers. Orloff Jewelers’ foundation in the Fresno community
is solid. Among the many organizations supported by the family are the
Children’s Hospital Central California, EPU Children’s Center, Camp
Taylor, All About Care, Assistance League, St. Agnes Hospital, Valley
Animal Shelter, and local high schools.
A good jeweler makes every effort to make your purchase enjoyable

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 11

designer spotlight by CAROL BESLER

WorldDavid Yurman’s of Beauty
David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his apprecia-
tion for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his The designer’s fall collections are
collections for this fall. inspired by motifs ranging from the
equestrian world to confetti
An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the
classic devices of the equestrian world – stirrups, bits, halters Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and
and other equipment used in tack. The Cable Buckle collection Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.
is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collec-
tion. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a
horse’s bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and
with the designer’s iconic cable motif in others. The designs
are rendered in sterling silver with 14k yellow gold highlights.
Some are set with diamonds.

The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a
reinterpretation of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked
rows of metal set with cushion-shaped gemstones capture the
effect of light and color dancing on a grid. In fact, the original
working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a reference
to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement
of this concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic,
delicate balance. Colored gemstones and diamonds are set in a
petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a playful dance.

Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has
become known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece
brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as
well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.

Confetti Narrow bracelet with
white diamonds in sterling silver.

Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and Cable Buckle bracelet with white
Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver. diamonds in sterling silver.

]12 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



children’s hostpital by CAROL BESLER

All for a Good Cause

How two “gems” of the Valley work Throughout that time, patient care has remained a top priority. It was
together to improve the lives of children the first children’s hospital west of the Rockies to receive the Magnet
Nursing designation, the highest nursing benchmark in the world, and
About 20 years ago, Mary Ann Orloff had occasion to visit Chil- it is one of fewer than 10 pediatric intensive care units in the country
dren’s Hospital Central California in support of a dear friend whose to have received the Beacon Award for Critical Care Excellence.
daughter was very ill with a severe heart defect. “I was so impressed
by the way the staff and doctors took care of that child,” says Mary
Ann. “They were so supportive and wonderful to the whole family,
and even though she is not treated there anymore, they still follow her
progress and care. They have gone above and beyond the call of duty
to help this child survive and live with her illness.”

The level of care witnessed by Mary Ann is not surprising, consid-
ering that the hospital was founded by five mothers in 1952, who saw
the need for a dedicated pediatric hospital in Central California. Who
better than a group of mothers to lay the foundation for a hospital
that helps children cope with illness and live better lives? More than
60 years later, Children’s Hospital has grown to a 356-bed, nation-
ally respected regional pediatric medical center on a 50-acre campus.

]14 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

A Life of Giving

The Orloff family, of Orloff Jewelers, is among those who recog- “Jamie has a great sense of humor and he’s wonderful,” says Peggy
nize the hospital’s essential value to the community — “it’s the ‘gem’ Dunlap, a manager with the hospital’s Foundation. “He knows every-
of the Valley,” says James Orloff — and like many others, feels that one, he went to school with everyone, and he is very good at motivat-
supporting it is just part of being a good citizen. ing and entertaining the guests.”

“This hospital was founded on community support,” says Todd James and Mary Ann also frequently donate jewelry to the Harvest
Suntrapak, president and CEO of the hospital. “Because of generous Ball, the hospital’s signature fundraising event, and even host events
businesses and people like Orloff Jewelers and the entire Orloff Fam- in their store, such as the upcoming David Yurman show, with a
ily, who give so willingly of their time, talent and treasure, Children’s portion of the proceeds going to benefit the hospital. Orloff Jewelers
Hospital is able to continue offering the best pediatric medical care in also donated a mobile gaming center that goes from room to room to
the region and supports our goal of becoming the best in the nation.” distract the kids from the distress of being ill.

Fundraising events are an important part of achieving this goal, and “Jamie’s dedication and positive example shows what one business
the Orloffs are deeply involved in this endeavor. If you have ever been member can do in the community,” says Robert Saroyan, vice-pres-
to the Evening Under the Stars event, raising money for the hospital’s ident of philanthropy and chief development officer of the hospital.
Willson Heart Center, you have witnessed James Orloff taking up the “Our supporters have helped us to become one of the largest children’s
gavel as the auctioneer. hospitals in the state and one of the largest of its type in the nation.”

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 15

designer spotlight by CAROL BESLER

New Carreras with in-house movements
and a Formula One for l adies

TAG Heuer is widely recognized for its chronographs and its progressive approach to
technology and design — TAG stands for Technique Avant-Garde. The company’s 154
year history of watchmaking innovation is especially evident this year in the new Carrera
collection. The latest models are equipped with TAG Heuer’s newest movement — its
second movement entirely manufactured in-house, this time with an unprecedented 80-
hour power reserve.

The Carrera was the first sports chronograph created specifically for professional drivers
and sports-car enthusiasts. It was designed in 1963 by Jack Heuer, great-grandson of the
brand’s founder and grandson of the CEO during its golden era of innovation in the 1960s
and 1970s. The collection was named for the Carrera Panamericana Mexico Road Race,
a grueling, open-road endurance competition. T
he Carrera is distinguished by its rugged
construction and at-a-glance legibility, two things essential to sports watches. Today’s sleek
designs are also noted for their uncluttered elegance, helping to coin the phrase “sports-
dress watch.” The design elements draw upon the timeless codes of motorsports, including
the black and white of vintage dashboard counters and the perforated leather driving gloves
favored by professional drivers.

This year’s new Carrera Calibre 5 Automatic in steel and rose gold features an H-shaped
bracelet, which has become another recognizable signature of the Carrera collection. The
blend of gold and fine-brushed steel is finished with meticulously polished edges on lateral
rows. There is also a steel and yellow gold version of this 39mm watch.

Monaco 37mm Automatic
with steel case, black dial,
and black alligator strap.
$3,800



]16 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

Aquaracer 34mm, in steel and Link 43mm Automatic
18k rose gold, with an automatic chronograph with steel
movement, white dial with rose gold case, black dial, and
markers, and fine brushed steel and fine-brushed steel
18k rose gold bracelet. $4,700 bracelet.  $4,350

The 41mm Carrera 5 Day-Date Automatic is equipped with day and date
functions, with rose gold-plated hands, indexes, date window and logo, all me-
ticulously hand applied. The polished and satin-brushed indexes accentuate
the contrast with the hands, creating a highly readable dial — a trademark of
the Carrera, and a loyal tribute to Jack Heuer’s original design. The date win-
dow, with its polished sides, provides a simultaneous day-date display, while
the entirely polished case may be fitted with an ergonomic bracelet featuring
H-shaped links or an alligator leather strap for a more traditional look.


The Monaco collection is also an essential element of TAG
Heuer’s involvement in the racing world. Steve McQueen
picked out a TAG Heuer Monaco to go with the white racing
suit he wore in the 1971 film Le Mans, and since then, the
chunky square-cased Monaco has been a symbol of speed and
savvy, with the unshakable association to McQueen’s era-de-
fining cool. The watch, introduced in 1969 in honor of the
Monaco Grand Prix, was the first automatic chronograph and
the first chrono to feature a square case.

The Aquaracer and Formula One collections are also associ-
ated with the high-paced world of auto racing. A highlight of
the new Aquaracer collection this year is the elegant steel and
18k gold automatic model. As a tribute to ladies who love the
TAG Heuer aesthetic, there is a Formula One for women this

year, in steel and ceramic, set with diamonds. Rounding out the company’s lines
Carrera 39mm Automatic, with steel and
is the Link, collection, an elegant dress watch with sporty elements and reliable 18k rose gold bezel, anthracite dial and
mechanical movements.
anthracite alligator strap. $4,950
Founded in Saint-Imier in 1860 by Edouard Heuer, TAG Heuer is among the
elite brands to win the world’s most coveted watchmaking award, the Geneva
Watchmaking Grand Prix “Aiguille d’Or.” The brand is a sponsor of the F1
Vodafone McLaren Mercedes team and its World Champion Jenson Button,
the Automobile Club of Monaco for the prestigious Monaco Grand Prix and the
new FIA Formula E Championship, the world’s top competition for electrically
powered racing cars. TAG Heuer is also a partner of Oracle Team USA, 2013
champion of sailing’s most prestigious trophy, the 34th America’s Cup.

Formula One 37mm in steel
and ceramic, with diamond
bezel, white dial, and
polished white ceramic and
steel bracelet.  $2,850

exceptional automobiles

A rriveDon’t just show up...
the new audi a8

Some dress for success. Others drive it. With an unrivaled level of luxury, craftsmanship and per-

formance, the A8 ensures that there’s no mistaking your arrival. The 2015 A8 further underscores its positioning as the
drivers’ luxury sedan in 2015 through design changes that communicate a wider stance and more dynamic look throughout
the A8 model line.
“As the flagship of the Audi brand, the A8 represents the best in Audi innovation, design, and craftsmanship” said Scott
Keogh, President, Audi of America. “The A8 has been a strong contributor toward building our brand and the changes for
the 2015 model year will continue to build upon that success.”

]18 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



exceptional automobiles

The A8 model line continues to offer industry-leading performance
and design. The ASF® aluminum construction of the A8 and S8 models
provides exceptional rigidity and performance while enabling excellent
efficiency due to its lightweight characteristics. Completely redesigned LED
headlights are now standard on the full model line and are complemented
by powerful creases in the hood as well as a newly designed grille, bumper
and splitter.
The A8 L TDI® clean diesel makes a powerful statement in achieving the
best fuel economy in its segment with an EPA estimated 24 city/ 36 highway/
28 combined mpg, boasting improved efficiency without compromise on
performance, while the A8, equipped with the optional 4.0T V8 engine,
has been improved upon for 2015 with horsepower increasing from 420hp
to 435 hp. A new electromechanical steering column helps reduce weight

and improves fuel efficiency. Dynamic steering, newly available
as part of the sport package, provides variable-ratio steering
that increases responsiveness based on speed and steering input
required.
Industry-leading technology continues to improve the driving
experience. Active lane assist helps keep the A8 between lane
markings through active steering adjustments. Night vision as-
sist now offers animal detection that can help alert the driver to
deer and other animals that are hard to see in the night. Animal
detection joins pedestrian detection — previously available in
the A8 model line — in the night vision system that will outline
the image of the animal/pedestrian and make an audible sound if
the object is in danger of entering the driver path. Also new are
secondary collision assist, which automatically applies the brakes
after an initial collision and a heads-up display for easier viewing
of vehicle speed, navigation and adaptive cruise control functions.
Inside, the new A8 offers available 22-way front comfort seats with 5 different massage functions, as well as improved acoustic measures for a
quieter cabin experience and optimized trunk packaging for increased space and usability.


Audi’s LED daytime running lights were an industry first.
They combine a striking aesthetic with critical safety
funcion. A car of this calibre ought to have the pinnacle
in safety innovation, but the creativity to make the same
a strong statement of style is what sets the great designers
apart. LED headlights on the A8 provide incredible
brightness and visibility. — you’ll see and be seen.

]20 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

When it’s time to turn the wheel, the A8 holds the road with
confidence. The quattro® all-wheel drive system helps maximize
handling performance in any pavement configuration. Cornering is
made even more precise and exhillarating with the available sport
differential. It’s a quite and smooth sanctuary in the city that will
still put a smile on your face in the stretches in-between.

The updated S8 becomes even sportier with its new exterior design, fea- offers a selection of five different inlays and an a la carte menu of options
turing larger air intakes in the lower bumper and an available new sport for customers to create the A8 L W12 suited specifically to their needs.
exhaust with wide oval quad tailpipes, which allows passengers to audibly Audi also launched the A3 earlier this year — a new segment for the
experience the 520hp twin-turbo V8. Inside, the newly available Ver- luxury market. The A3 already won the World Car of the Year award, and
mont Brown Audi design selection leather appointed interior and carbon is a welcome addition to an already exceptional brand. The A3 is available
twill copper inlays combine the sporty character of the S8 with stunning in three different gas engines and one diesel variant, as well as a Cabriolet.
elegance and craftsmanship. Audi must be doing something right; With forty-three straight months
The top of the range, the A8 L W12 model is the first 12 cylinder of sales growth, they have set the longest running monthly record sales
engine to feature intelligent cylinder control, helping provide improved streak in the premium car market. They have obviously captured more
highway efficiency. The top of the line flagship model also benefits from than our attention. Audi has captured the hearts and minds of discerning
all of the design changes to the lighting, hood and grille. The A8 L W12 drivers around the world.

“Audi’s A8 is the pinnacle of German über-luxury
sedans, with an exterior that is understated yet
impressive. It’s beautiful inside, too, but don’t be
fooled: The A8 can be quite athletic when the road
gets twisty.” ~Car And Driver Magazine

Having power involves having
choice, and with the A8, you have
plenty. Choose from a supercharged
333-hp V6 or the available TDI®
clean diesel engine that can take you
further on every drive. Of course, if
you’re really hungry for power, the
turbocharged 435-hp V8 can take
you on a power trip unlike any
you’ve had before.

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 21

pearl trends by CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR

Pearls DAVID YURMAN 10 MM PEARL
CROSSOVER ADJUSTABLE-LENGTH
Popular, Prized, and Precious
ENHANCER IN STERLING SILVER
Pearls have always been a symbol of elegance and refinement. In the past, fashion icons such as WITH PEARL AND DIAMONDS.
DAVID YURMAN STARBURST
Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O were rarely photographed without their pearl necklaces. PEARL RING WITH PEARLS
AND DIAMONDS IN
Today, pearls continue to fascinate, whether seen on Angelina Jolie, Katy Perry, Sarah Jessica Parker, STERLING SILVER.

the Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton or even Laura & Barbara Bush, and Hillary Clinton. DAVID YURMAN CABLE CUP PEARL
CLASSICS RING IN STERLING SILVER
The most popular way of wearing pearls remains the traditional strand, long or short. Yet pearls also WITH PEARL AND DIAMONDS.

come in a range of colors, sizes and shapes, and have become an integral part of original and varied DAVID YURMAN 9.5-10 MM
PEARL CROSSOVER BUTTON
designs, whether classical, edgy or contemporary. EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER
WITH DIAMONDS.
One of the fastest rising trends is to combine pearls and gemstones, creating new looks and new
DAVID YURMAN STAR BURST PEARL
ways to wear them. They are often a featured element in cocktail rings, forming the center of a beau- DROP EARRINGS WHITE CULTURED
FRESHWATER PEARLS.
tiful flower or in a circle of colorful gems. Another popular trend in pearl fashion jewelry is the use

of baroque pearls. Their unusual and freeform shapes lend themselves to a vast array of designs in

brooches, earrings, pendants and bracelets. Designers also pair pearls with leather, rubber and other

non-traditional jewelry materials for today’s contemporary look. Clusters of pearls create volume

and color in all types of jewelry. Even traditional strands can be dressed up or down, knotted, worn

as a belt, or even combined with blackened metals for a vintage look. The possibilities for pearls are

endless, depending only on the imagination of the designer.

Pearls can be natural, meaning they were formed in the oyster with no human intervention, or they

can be cultured. Natural pearls are very rare and found mainly in the Gulf region of the Middle East.

Understandably, they carry a hefty price tag. Cultured pearls run the gamut as far as price goes. At the

least expensive end of the spectrum are freshwater pearls, ranging in color from cream to pink, from

gray to lavender, and even gold hues. They are cultivated mainly in ponds and small lakes in China.

Freshwater varieties are also sometimes dyed various colors for use in inexpensive fashion jewelry.

The more expensive seawater pearls can be divided into three general categories: South Sea pearls

from the oyster Pinctada maxima, from the warm waters off Australia, the Philippines and Indonesia,

ranging from white to spectacular gold; Tahitian pearls from Pinctada margaritifera oysters in French

Polynesia, ranging from black to multi-color peacock; and Akoya pearls from the Pinctada fucata oys-

ter, grown in the cool to temperate seas near Japan and China, with a brilliant

luster in cream to pink to gold.

Because pearls are organic, they require special care. They

can be damaged if they come in contact with perfume,

cosmetics, hairspray or household cleaners. It is good

practice, therefore, to put them on last and take

them off first, and then store them in a soft cloth

pouch, but never in plastic because it can emit a DAVID YURMAN CROSSOVER
chemical that damages the pearl’s surface. Pearls BRACELET IN STERLING SILVER
WITH PEARLS AND DIAMONDS.

should also be worn often to let them absorb mois-

ture from the skin, which prevents them from dry-

ing out. With a little care, these popular, prized and

precious gems can be enjoyed forever.

]22 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

wine & spirits

hPowintoosterNveoyoirur

A As with any wine, the temperature at which you serve pinot noir is key to perceiving the nu-
merous and subtle flavors. Serving a glass at the right temperature will enable you and your
guests to experience everything the wine has to offer.

First of all, a little background is in order. A pinot noir wine starts with pinot noir
grapes, which are grown all over the world. The most famous pinot noirs are grown in
France’s Burgundy region, but many other wonderful varieties come from California
and Canada. Interesting tidbit: A champagne is produced by blending chardonnay
and pinot noir grapes. Pinot Noir’s darkened reddish color comes from the pro-
cess used to produce the wine, where the clear pinot noir juice is left touching
the dark grape skins.

What flavors should you expect from a properly served glass of pinot noir?
After all, the primary reason to be mindful of serving temperatures is the
subtle flavoring of the wine. Though pinot noir’s notes do vary from region

to region, there are nevertheless a few common flavors you can expect to
find in a well-served glass: smoke, black cherry, mushroom, leather, plum,
tomato, berries, and earth. A well-served pinot noir will also have a rich,
velvety, soft, and full to medium-bodied quality.

And what about serving temperature? Finding the best temperature to
store and serve pinot noir involves a delicate balancing act. Do it right and
you will preserve all the above-listed characteristics perfectly. Your wine
will stay a beautiful balance of fruit, alcohol, and acidity that reveals the subtle
nuances of flavor.

Serving temperature does not change these characteristics, contrary to popular belief.
Temperature affects the degree to which your palate can interpret them. Pinot noir is
best served at slightly below what most consider room temperature. It is a myth that red
wines are room-temperature wines. Room temperature is too warm. Lighter-bodied red
wines like pinot noir should be served around 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or 12.8 degrees Celsius.
As you serve the wine, be careful to hold the glass correctly. Hold the stem of the glass such
that your hand does not warm the wine as you pour and as you lift the glass to your lips. If
you’re drinking with stemless glasses, only pick up the glass when you’re planning to take a sip.

It can be helpful to store bottles of pinot noir in a basement or refrigerator to help them last
longer. Storing bottles at room temperature means you have to cool them down prior to
serving, typically by leaving them in the refrigerator for two hours. Don’t cool them down

too far or you’ll miss more subtle aspects of the wine.

Storing the wine in an area that’s too warm, on the other hand, can actually affect the
wine’s flavor profile. If you store a pinot noir, or any wine, in a place where it will be
too warm for a long period, the wine can age prematurely, or the flavor may break

down. The same goes for storing the wine at temperatures that are too cold. The best
temperature for storing red wines, like pinot noir, is the same temperature at which
they are best served.

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 23

designer spotlight by HEDDA SCHUPAK

100 Years
of Diamonds

Kwiat jewelry is a favorite on the red carpet Natalie Portman

F Founded in 1907 in New York City, Halle Berry
Claire Danes
Kwiat has been family owned and
operated for more than 100
years. Sam Kwiat arrived
in the United States on a
steamship from Europe

and, upon arrival, opened

a diamond jewelry store

in the heart of New York

City’s diamond district —

at the time, downtown near Platinum and diamond
the financial district. snowflake drop earrings.

He quickly earned a reputation

as a skilled diamond merchant who

was highly regarded for his expertise in

cutting exceptional diamonds.

Sam’s son, David, joined the family business in 1933. Like his

father, David was a talented designer and craftsman who, over time,

formed an impressive collection of important diamond jewelry that

could be found at the most exclusive shops on New York’s Fifth

Avenue and around the world.

]24 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

By the 1960s, David had become a renowned diamond mer- Kwiat Echo double diamond
chant. In 1965 he purchased a 126-carat rough diamond that loop earrings, which were worn
yielded the 50-carat “Teardrop of Africa,” cut for famed jeweler by actress Emmy Rossum.
Harry Winston. This cemented his reputation as one of the finest
diamond cutters in the world. Diamond strings necklace
Kwiat diamond jewelry is a favorite of celebrities on the red carpet. in 18k white gold.
Whether it’s the Oscars, Emmys, Grammys, or any other glamorous
event, there are sure to be multiple stars draped in Kwiat jewels: Natalie
Portman, Michelle Williams, Claire Danes, Tina Fey, Fergie, Halle Berry,
Emmy Rossum, Glenn Close, and many more. Even the men love a Kwiat
diamond: Tom Cruise and Forest Whitaker, to name just two!
In 2007, in celebration of its 100th anniversary, the Kwiat family opened a
flagship boutique in New York City’s luxury shopping district on Madison Ave-
nue. To this day, Sam’s grandsons, Sheldon and Lowell, and his great-grandchildren
run the business according to the same principles that established the family legacy:
integrity, quality, craftsmanship and design.

100 Years of Diamonds

Glenn Close Emmy Rossum Michelle Williams

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 25

sensible attire by LESLIE C. SMITH
PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS
50 IS THE NEW 13?

Everybody gets older.
So how come are so
many men still wearing
the same casual clothes
they did in their teens?

A high-level expert appears on CNN to discuss the first
Malaysian Airlines disaster attired in a tails-out plaid shirt,
shorts, and sandals. Elton John, now in his mid-60s, shows
up at a recent concert wearing a top-to-bottom Adidas
track suit. On every street in America, middle-aged men and
seniors alike amble about our streets wearing jeans, sweatshirts,
running shoes, and baseball caps. Yes, there’s something to be said
about being comfortable — and casual clothes that one has always
worn possess a warm familiarity about them — but is that any excuse
for your wardrobe letting the team down so badly?

There comes a certain time in life — most experts pinpoint it at around
age 35 — when wearing youth-oriented styles becomes as sad and silly as
a 80-year-old in a ponytail. It’s the same fork in the road where tattoos
stop looking cool and start people wondering if you’ve ever been to prison,
when walking around without a shirt on in the summer turns heads for all the
wrong reasons, when nobody congratulates you right after you’ve told them
that you’re wearing the same size jeans as you did in college.

Men not wanting to appear older is as endemic in America as overeating,
yet this problem receives very little media attention — likely because the bulk
of reporters and editors out there would themselves fall into the same sorry
category. So how do you carry off casual without looking like you’ve raided
your teenage son’s (or grandson’s) closet?

Well, you can begin by realizing that just because that jacket or trou-
sers, or what have you, can still technically be worn doesn’t mean you

]26 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



sensible attire

should actually wear it. Go through your dresser drawers and rigorously
get rid of any T-shirt that bears a slogan or a large logo. The same holds true
for any piece of clothing sporting the logo of a mall outlet that caters to the
under-25 crowd, as well as any piece of clothing that comes with a hood or
cargo pockets. While you’re tossing the place, if you happen to run across some
plastic shoes, up to and including high-topped athletics, Crocs, and flip-flops,
tip them in the recycling bin too.

Next, take serious stock of what’s left. That basketball/baseball/hockey/foot-
ball jersey, once it’s been cut up into small pieces, would make a great addition
to the rag bag. (We know this act will prove difficult if not impossible for you
to perform, so why not make your wife extra-happy by giving her the scissors?)
Pretty much all your other garments that flaunt athletic striping should go in a
big pile for the Goodwill box. Allow the next generation to scoop these out of

PHOTO COURTESY OF HETTABRETZ

]28 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS

second-hand stores for their ironic content, since irony on older men simply not tight line to your legs, and don’t puddle down around your heels.
looks tragic. Although you may still be in pretty good shape, zippy stripes Although you fondly recall how hot you looked back in the day in those
on track pants, socks, rugger shirts, and ski jackets belong on real athletes chalk white or tomato red five-pockets, do not indulge in them now.
who could conceivably have a shot at competing in the next Olympics. A dark-wash indigo is classic and retains its attraction long after other,
trendier colors fade.
By now, your casual wardrobe should be whittled down to three cot-
ton-weave shirts and your favorite pair of jeans. You love those jeans. You will build your new, age-appropriate attire on this foundation,
Sure, they’re a bit worn and torn in places and have a few stains here and choosing wisely sourced garments from a real, grown-up men’s store.
there, but you’ve broken them in just right over the years and… guess You will still look relaxed but way cooler in the eyes of others. And
what? Out they go. (The shirts can stay.) whenever you require a reminder of what not to don, simply check out
what actor and comedian Russell Brand (age 40) is currently wearing.
Then out you go to get a new pair of denims that fit you properly
at the waist, give a bit of definition to your backside, offer a trim but

PHOTO COURTESY OF CARL GROSS [O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 29

trends in gold by HEDDA SHUPAK

There’s a saying in fashion circles that if you hang onto something long
enough, it comes back into style. It’s true. Of course, there’s also the corol-
lary that if you’re old enough to have worn something the first time around, you
should pass on it the second. Luckily, that part isn’t always true. Fine jewelry transcends
all ages. It’s all in how you wear it.

The 1980s were all about gold. Jewelry was big, bold, and shiny, to offset big hair and bigger
shoulders. The trend was ubiquitous: buttons, zippers, buckles and handbag hardware also were
gold-toned, and home decor centered more on brass than chrome.

Then the 1990s came and design did an about-face. Shoulder pads gave way to slip-dresses,
supermodels to waifs, and big hair to bed-head. At home, brass was out and stainless steel ushered
in an era of industrial luxury. And in fine jewelry, a great whitewashing had begun: yellow gold
went back into the jewelry box in favor of anything diamond, silver, white gold or platinum.

But design, like history, is cyclical. Yellow gold started coming back in the aughties, and now
it’s a full-on fashion force.

The World Gold Council reported gold jewelry demand in 2013 had the largest volume
increase since 1997. Gold jewelry demand increased 6% in the fourth quarter of 2013 alone.

But we don’t need official figures to see that gold is hot. We saw it all over the red carpet,
favored by It Girls like Lupita Nyong’o and Jennifer Lawrence. In case you sat out the

Oscars, picking up a home magazine is proof enough that yellow is in: The Epoch Times
recently labeled gold “the hottest trend for 2014 home decor.”
Of course, it’s never quite the same the second time around. Just as fash-
ion always comes back with just enough of a subtle shift to separate
the new from the old, so do home and jewelry designs. Today,
gold and copper accents warm up stainless steel and

LESLIE’S 14K YELLOW GOLD
SCRATCH FINISH BEADED
NECKLACE

]30 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

GURHAN’S ANTIQUITIES
CHARM BRACELET IN 24K

GOLD AND GEMSTONES.

LESLIE’S 14K YELLOW LESLIE’S 14K SCRATCH
GOLD ROUND PENDANT FINISH ROUND WITH
YELLOW GOLD DRUZY
WITH GREY DRUZY POST DANGLE NECKLACE
NECKLACE

Bold and Bright,
Gold Is Fashion Right!

nickel. Think of adding a touch of old-fashioned luxury to modern industrial
chic, not a 1980s brass revival.

So, back to the original question: can you wear your eighties gold without
looking like a relic from Dynasty? Yes, but not without adding something new
to bring it up to date. It’s the same rule as in fashion: one vintage piece is cool
but vintage head-to-toe just looks like Grandma was your stylist.

“We’re really seeing a redefinition of jewelry pieces, a reimagining of the
way we wear jewelry,” says Jamie Gage of LoveGold. Earrings may climb up
or cuff the ear instead of the traditional down-facing dangle, or the design
may pass through the front and back of the ear. Really modern: wear just one
super-bold earring, not a pair.

“We’re also seeing multi-finger rings or delicate midi rings that only go up
to the first knuckle. Or hand bracelets where a delicate chain goes up and over
the hand,” says Gage. “It’s all about mixing and matching and layering.”

Layering, of course, means you always have a good excuse to add to your
jewelry collection. Whether it’s stacks of bangles or chains, you can pile it on
for a larger look. Just remember: whatever you wear, statement making is the
way to wear it, so don’t be shy.

CHARLES GARNIER 40 MM
GRADUATED HOOP EARRINGS SS

W/ GOLD OVERLAY

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 31

hottest trends by CAROL BESLER

JewelryTREND REPORT
Jewelry trends this year are all about updated classics, innovative design and flawless quality. Quality and
Designers are putting a new twist on enduring styles — everything from button earrings innovation are
to the cocktail ring — giving classic looks a contemporary feel. There is a growing sense of the top trends
fearless creativity in jewelry design, the result of greater demand for jewelry that is unique in jewelry this
and makes an individual statement. Designs are often built around one special gemstone, or year, no matter
based on shapes that make collections unique and unforgettable. This year we see everything what the style
from the sensuous curves of bamboo to the angles of urban architecture and even the shape
of a 1950s television screen. DAVID YURMAN TEARDROP
Perhaps the one over-arching trend that is evident in most fine jewelry today is a greater PENDANT 18-20 DIA WT
attention to craftsmanship across the board. The standard of quality and workmanship has 1.04 AH DI SIL.
notably increased, and the mark of the craftsman can be seen in even the most accessible
pieces. For diamonds and gemstones, only stones with high quality, cut and color values are
making the grade. Here are a few of our picks for what’s trending right now in jewelry, but
don’t let the word “trend” fool you. We have chosen pieces that qualify as modern classics,
guaranteed to look beautiful for years to come

ColoGreemd stones

T he allure of colored gemstones never goes out of style, but each season brings its favor-
ites. This year, shades of purple dominate, in tune with Pantone’s Color of the Year,
Radiant Orchid. But blue is still a strong color in jewelry, heralding a new age of popularity
for fine blue sapphire and for the lighter shades of blue chalcedony and lots of aquamarine.
(By the way, sapphire comes in many different colors, and being one of the hardest gems, it
is highly appropriate for rings). And opal is one of the strongest gems in the jewelry market
right now at all levels. Because of opal’s unique play of color, no two ever seem exactly the
same, and the gem works with so many different colors of complementary gemstones (and
fashions!), making it a highly versatile gem.

PERIDOT AND DIAMOND CARL K. GUMPERT 18K
EARRINGS BY EICHHORN WHITE GOLD CITRINE
DIAMOND EARRINGS.
IVAN GEMS 14KT WG
TANZANITE RING WITH

DIAMONDS.

]32 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

To view the entire collection & locate an authorized dealer, please visit www.endlessjewelry.us

hottest trends H.J. NAMDAR 14K WG
DIAMOND FASHION
BlacWk haitned EARRINGS W/ BLACK
DIAMONDS 1.39CTW.
T here is something timeless, classic and elegant about black and
white, the world’s most sophisticated color combination. In jew- H.J. NAMDAR 14 KARAT YELLOW
elry, it reignites the styles of the Art Deco era, with diamonds and onyx GOLD RING. ROUND WHITE DIA: 0.24
or black sapphire. Today, many more gems are available to create the TOTAL WEIGHT. ROUND CHAMPAGNE
elegance of black and white, including white sapphires, white or black
spinel. And styles are not just Art Deco but also Bohemian Chic, with DIA: 1.44 TOTAL WEIGHT. TOTAL
long necklaces, hand crafted chains and even blackened metals for an DIAMOND WEIGHT: 1.68.
edgier look. Black and white can be worn with virtually anything, and
will never, ever go out of style. H.J. NAMDAR 14K DIAMOND PENDANT W/
2.62TW FANCY COLOR DIAMONDS & 0.05TW
H.J. NAMDAR 14K WG FASHION ROUND BRILLIANTS.
DIAMOND PENDANT BLACK
DIAMONDS 0.85TW.

Diamonds

Diamonds are the single most important gem in fine jew-
elry and timepieces, and have never been more popular.
In both bridal and fashion pieces, there is a trend toward
large cushion-shaped diamonds surrounded by halos of
smaller gems, often colored diamonds or even colored gem-
stones, as well as white diamonds. Diamond slices are also
still popular, lending a contemporary mosaic feel to fine fash-
ion jewelry. There are some classic diamond segments that
will never go out of style: right hand rings, long necklaces
with stations of diamonds, classic tennis bracelets, and
ear studs. And of course, quality never goes out of
style. Look into picking a special cut that gives a
diamond maximum sparkle or brilliance.

DIAMOND EARRINGS
FROM THE SUNBURST
COLLECTION BY KWIAT.

]34 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

KWIAT 18 KT WHITE GOLD OVAL
OVERLAY DIAMOND DROP EARRINGS
1.88 CTW GH/VS2-SI1.

BLACK AND WHITE DIAMOND Earrings
EARRINGS BY DAVID YURMAN.
H alos, diamond studs, drops, buttons, doorknockers and line
DIAMOND EARRINGS FROM THE KWIAT earrings — anything goes in earrings right now, as they rival
STAR COLLECTION IN 18K GOLD. the cocktail ring as the must-have statement piece of the moment.
The one thing they all have in common is lots of volume, with
DIAMOND RING IN 18K GOLD FROM THE GABRIEL & CO. 14 KT bigger gems, larger proportions — often with cut-out metals to
KWIAT SUNBURST COLLECTION. WHITE GOLD CROSSOVER
CIRCLE DIAMOND FASHION reduce the weight — and lots of diamond sparkle. There is a
greater variety of styles than ever before, with earrings
RING .73 CTW SIZE 6.5. now designed for every occasion: gold for every day,
a bit of color for some pop, cascading diamonds for
KWIAT 18 KT WHITE GOLD DOUBLE FLOWER GABRIEL & CO. 14 KT ROSE evening and diamond studs for the gym. There is
DIAMOND FASHION RING FROM THE SUNBURST GOLD DIAMOND FASHION no occasion that does not call for earrings. Don’t
COLLECTION 0.89 CTW GH/VS2-SI1. RING .38 CTW SIZE 6.5. leave the house without them!

ORLOFF JEWELERS PARAIBA, DIAMOND
EARRINGS P@ 0.77 TW DIA.@ 2.65 TW.

Rings

T he cocktail ring, big, bold and unique, is hot right
now. It lends itself more than any other segment to
one-of-a-kind status, as most are built around one spec-
tacular gemstone. Today, the center stone is being com-
plemented by other colored gemstones in new, fearless
combinations of colors that have never been seen before.
The diamond ring is also becoming a lot more interesting,
with designers dreaming up different ways to decorate the
shanks, prongs and halo or bezel settings with special cuts,
shapes and even colors, giving the diamond right-hand-
ring new life. There are also some daring new styles, such

as the knuckle ring and bracelet ring. And the practice of
stacking rings — to create a different look every time
— is quickly becoming a modern classic.

KWIAT DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE FASHION
RING IN 18 KT WHITE GOLD FROM THE
CONFETTI COLLECTION SAP CTW 1.39
DTW F-G/VS2.

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 35

designer spotlight by CAROL BESLER

Stellare collection earrings, Kaslique collection necklace,
handmade with 14k gold and 0.62tcw handmade with 14k gold and
of diamonds. $1,230 0.13tcw of diamonds. $505

Diamond ring, Diamond hoop earrings,
handmade with 14k handmade with 14k
white gold and 0.70tcw white gold and 0.55tcw
of diamonds. $2,145 of diamonds. $1,355

Bangle, handmade with sterling silver,
black rhodium, pearls and 0.56tcw of
black spinel, from the Carmen Marc
Valvo by Gabriel & Co.

Gabriel & Co.’s jewelry is not to be stored and saved for specific occasions,” says
Fashion Focus Rubenstein. “Instead, I believe jewelry should be worn every day
because you never know which day is going to turn out to be spe-
Introducing several new collections cial, and when that happens, shouldn’t you always look your best?”

with foundations in the fashion world Gabriel & Co. also recently collaborated with fashion designer
Carmen Marc Valvo to co-design a jewelry collection that ap-
Gabriel & Co. is a New York based jewelry design house peared in the designer’s runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion
founded in 1989 by brothers Jack and Dominick Gabriel. What week in New York this summer. The collection commemorates
started as a small diamond wholesale operation has since evolved the companies’ joint 25th anniversaries this year. It marries vin-
into one of America’s most prolific fine jewelry brands, the goal tage looks with modern details, paying homage to some of the
of which is to provide an unparalleled styling experience to the most iconic jewelry styles of the twentieth century. Designed to
wearer. Each piece is customizable, allowing a woman – the broth- compliment Valvo’s Spring 2015 ready-to-wear and couture col-
ers affectionately refer to their customer as the “Gabriel Woman” lections, highlights include: vintage inspired 10.5 millimeter black
– to personalize her jewelry look to every stage in her life. and white pearl earrings set in sterling silver or black rhodium;
coil bangles in combinations of sterling silver and red onyx layered
Recently, the company has pursued an intensely fashion for- with white quartz, smoky quartz or black mother-of-pearl layered
ward direction, elevating its presence by appointing former In- with white quartz; stackable bangles in combinations of sterling
Style magazine fashion director Hal Rubenstein as Gabriel’s global silver and white pearls with black spinel or black rhodium with
style director. The new collections created in collaboration with black pearls and black spinel; white sapphire and black spinel en-
Rubenstein debuted recently at the JCK jewelry trade show in Las crusted cuffs in sterling silver and black rhodium.
Vegas. A fervent jewelry lover, collector and wearer, Rubenstein
carefully put together a series of styles that reflect his philoso- “We are thrilled to partner with Carmen Marc Valvo as we cel-
phy that women should wear their best jewelry daily, instead of ebrate 25 years in the fine jewelry business,” says vice-president/
tucking it away for special occasions. “The five new collections I designer Dominick Gabriel. “We are continually inspired by Car-
curated for Gabriel & Co. are distinctive and exclusive, and yet all men’s pristine designs and this collection is a labor of love between
share a wonderful overriding philosophy – that beautifully crafted two brands whose combined mission is to make women look and
feel beautiful,” says CEO Berna Gabriel.

]36 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

www.orloffjewelers.com

770 West Shaw Avenue | Suite 101
Fresno, CA 93704
559.221.6622

dining destinations

Culinary
DelighDinting in Sausalito Sausalito, California is a prime destination for a weekend getaway or an extended
6 ICONIC LOCATION WORLD-CLASS VIEWSAN
Pacific coast excursion filled with nyriad culinary possibilities. While you’re there,
you’ll definitely want to check out some of these exceptional dining opportunites. 0AaG1LcMloouclUcxldaaRu-itRcrmeAieodeYrudtiCisnfIdRihteiCnhodLietnECehglaeevaFTaxatO5Rrpl0RAMtleVoT0oruEBPifLWreA+ornnLOKaiaEcnEyRIteSRtiLCoULaDRniorc’ESaSchdARllgiBeUEpeeEASvarDSAeefrEeLTksdRIaltTHSaawtO’nuOuCi,tdrrTHCheaEOAjsnuWLIeLCtsStcIE,FhtoIaOemlTnRoaNdigHnwIiAscuataTt9ruelOd4nsi9P-nnw6Cft3irO5enio5nNlgmlDnHi1gÉGi.OnS8eNoT8gnaAlE8dncSH.LeTe6FeSn.5TraR1IaG.lNA2innVa0cNEgt0iLeOs3EAcRBRroTrtRwsiHEadwAEnCgwDRdee.EcNnRSaaStvCnae’aduACrllHLso&bOaIpFaIolCSOiyitEnpRovta.,Nice,LoIwAmEsE.D /Cavallo

Murray Circle Restaurant At Cavallo Point — the Lodge at the Golden Gate

601 Murray Circle | Fort Baker | Sausalito
Phone: 415-339-4750 • www.cavallopoint.com/murray-circle-restaurant.html

Cavallo Point’s acclaimed restaurant Murray Circle, under the direction of Executive

Chef Justin Everett, is one of the Bay Area’s top culinary destinations. A meal here is

inspired, highlighting refined modern Northern California cuisine anchored to its Marin

roots, the freshest local ingredients, and stunning Golden Gate Bridge views.

Settle into the elegant yet comfortable dining room accented with beautifully restored

tin ceilings, fine art photography, and toasty fireplaces. Outside, soak up the sun on

plush outdoor seating on the historic porch, with sweeping views of San Francisco and

the Golden Gate Bridge.

Executive Chef Justin Everett, a longtime resident of the Bay Area with extensive

experience in California’s Wine Country, uses the finest local ingredients, building on

long-standing relationships with Bay Area farmers and fishermen. Straight from the

source at the height of flavor, these ingredients inspire food carefully crafted to showcase

the best of the season.

Once you’ve made your dining decisions, pair them with selections from the stellar

wine collection. Featuring over 2,000 options and 30 wines by the glass, Murray Circle’s

wine cellar is one of California’s deepest and most diverse. Enhanced by its proximity to

celebrated wine regions, it showcases local artisan wines from small California producers,

often hard to find — combined with the best vintages of Europe’s top estates.

Poggio

777 Bridgeway, Sausalito
415-332-7771 • www.poggiotrattoria.com
Poggio from the Italian translation for “a special hillside place,” is a classic Italian tratto-
ria with comfortable neighborhood charm and destination-caliber cuisine. Using the best
available local ingredients and property-grown organic herbs and vegetables, the daily
changing menu features soulful classics of Northern Italy, simply and earnestly prepared.
The SF Gate says: “Sausalito meets the Italian coast at this handsome restaurant
overlooking Bridgeway and the Sausalito marina. Ben Balesteri takes an artisan approach
to cooking — grilling lamb’s tongue over oak wood, making his own burrata, crafting
light potato gnocchi and tossing it with a rabbit ragout. He also gathers much of the
produce from the restaurant’s garden to use in such recipes as long-cooked spigariello soup.
Owner Larry Mindel, who brought the Il Fornaio chain to prominence, opened this all-day
restaurant ten years ago, installing a timeless interior featuring terra cotta floors, marble
baseboards and mahogany arches.”
The seasonal menu that changes daily features locally grown ingredients and items from
the large-display wood-fired rotisserie and grill and wood roasting oven.

]38 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

oPoint @CavalloPoint Barrel House

660 Bridgeway, Sausalito
415-729-9593 • http://barrelhousetavern.com
With a Northern California vibe, attentive hospitality, and a locally sourced, seasonal
menu, the Barrel House Tavern is open every day for all your social gatherings. Nestled
downtown overlooking the Bay, Chris Henry’s Barrel House Tavern is an inviting urban
oasis and a lively destination fit for an intimate dinner for two or a celebratory venue for
large groups.
Landmarked as a historical building, this location was the first ferry terminal to and
from San Francisco for Sausalito before the Golden Gage Bridge was built. Now con-
verted into a modern eatery, its sure to put anyone at-ease with contemporary twists on
rustic comfort food. Check out these reviews:
“Wow. Second floor outdoor deck, seated right over the water with 270 degree views of
our city by the bay. Stunning. Had the Don & Sons Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, better than
expected, a nice blend of Carneros and Petaluma Gap fruit from Mr. Sebastiani. We ordered
three of the small dishes, and all were great (tomatoes; flatbread w/onion/apple; and the
triangles of watermelon ceviche). Great service. I’m still stunned. The main room is equally
impressive.  This place is a magic carpet ride. It’s a home run.” ~ David C., Novato, CA
“What’s not to like? Trendy atmosphere. Phenomenal views. Good service. Very tasty food
(I recommend the seafood dishes). They have great bar-type seating outside that stares directly
out to the bay. Also a big bar indoors with a fireside lounge area. Not a bad table in the place!”
~ Tami S, San Francisco

The Trident

558 Bridgeway, 1st Floor, Sausalito
415-331-3232 • www.thetridentsausalito.com
Trident Philosophy (circa 1960s): It was a another time, but the same place...
Where you can still channel your inner love child and groove on the original
Trident atmosphere and philosophy, which advocated “positive energy projection” and
offered “good-tasting, natural, wholesome, organic foods in a living, growing and stimu-
lating atmosphere.” And, as in those heady, halcyon days, we invite you to “take a deep
breath, relax and dig on the love and artistry about you. May all our offerings please you.
Peace within you.”
But times change, and in 1980 The Trident closed its doors and became the popular
Horizons restaurant. Now it has come full circle to The Trident once again, where you
can enjoy the original decor from the 1960s, including the famous wall (and ceiling) art
and rich, warm woodwork featuring voluptuously flowing curves. Following its original
philosophy, The Trident offers satisfying and sophisticated fare showcasing local, organic,
and sustainably produced ingredients. Today’s Trident is still groovy after all these years.
Executive Chef James Montejano adds his passion for seafood and flair for creating the
ultimate dining experience to The Trident. A seasoned chef that has worked at some of
California’s top restaurants, James was educated at the California Culinary Academy.  In
San Francisco, he is known for supporting local farmers, fishermen, and sustainable organic
food producers, which allows him to provide you the freshest food for dining experience.
The Trident is the perfect place to sit on the deck, enjoy fresh seafood with a signa-
ture cocktail and experience the bay. Less than five-minute walk from Blue & Gold and
Golden Gate Ferries. Peace, love, and bon appétit!

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 39

accessories for him by DEBORAH YONICK

MANABOUT Dog tag from the Meteorite
TOWN collection by David Yurman.

Mixed metals, precious gems, and cuff bracelets are dominating men’s jewelry

Men stepped out of the recession with bag on hip
and bracelet on wrist, proclaimed The New York Times
in 2012, and since then, accessories have become even
more important to the modern man, as his perception
of fashion continues to grow.

“The recession has taught men that looking fashionable can be a key showcasing gem centers (carved, cabochon, inlay, pavé) and mixing metals
component to getting and keeping a job,” says jewelry stylist and TV host, (i.e. titanium and yellow or black gold).
Michael O’Connor. “Accessories give men more opportunities to make a In cuff links, designs range from traditional classics to whimsical, life-
personal statement on traditional fashion. Men are feeling more confident style imagery like mermaids, dragons, lions, eagles, and skulls. In necklaces,
about experimenting, realizing they have more options available to them new takes on dog tags are especially popular. Designers are working tag
than ever.” pendants in much the same way they are bringing new takes to the basic
Smart designers and otherwise iconic female brands caught the news signet ring, with interesting gem centers, unique engraved patterns, and
early that men’s jewelry was on the rise and have been building on the mixed metals, colors, and textures.
category recently. O’Connor recognizes artists like Stephen Webster, John
Hardy, and David Yurman as pioneers.

When it comes to fashion accessories, expressing individual style for a Gem Curious
reasonable price is now more possible than ever. Designers today are using “What’s most exciting in men’s design is a growing fascination with
a broad range of materials including alternative metals, leathers, and exotic gem material like black and brown diamonds, sapphire, tanzanite, abalone,
stones. and mother-of-pearl, even meteorite,” says Mark Melancon, precious and
contemporary metal band manager for Stuller. Cohen cites greater use of
color expressed not only in stones, but also enamels, dyed leathers, and
plated metals.
And don’t forget the diamonds. After all, why should the most precious
stone on earth be reserved only for women!

Embracing Bracelets
Bracelets are probably the most popular choice in men’s jew-
elry next to the wristwatch. Favorite styles mix materials like
precious and alternative metals with woven leather and rubber,
multi-colored sail cord, gem, or exotic wood inlay, and dia-
mond details. Bead bracelets are very popular from designers
like Yurman, Hardy, and Webster, mixing detailed silver clasps
with gems such as carnelian, lapis, and black onyx. Moreover,
cuff styles with interesting patterns and new takes on the ID
bracelet with gem inlay are trending.
In rings, right hand fashion bands are strong in mixed metals
with diamond accents (black and cognac are favorites) or inlaid
with other materials like enamel or wood. The signet ring remains a
favorite style, not only in classic monogrammed gold designs, but also

]40 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



screen legend by TIM GRIERSON

Even after all this time, there’s something strange about
seeing Lauren Bacall in color. Maybe it’s because some of
her greatest work was in film noir, but she’s always seemed
better suited to black-and-white — to a bygone, romanti-
cized vision of the silver screen that probably never actually
existed. It’s not just me: Bacall herself longed for a career
that was part of Hollywood’s early years. “If I could have
lived as an actress in any period,” she once said, “it would
have been the 1920s — I would have loved to have been
part of that speakeasy era.” But she came of age at a
different time. And then life intervened.
Bacall was born in New York City in Sep-
tember 1924. Her name was Betty Joan
Perske, and her father, whom she refers to
as a “bastard,” ran out when she was five.
Bacall came from her grandmother, who
was Bacal. (Lauren would come later when
she moved to Hollywood.) Initially, she
wanted to be a dancer, but she tried acting
and modeling. “I didn’t think I was ever
any good,” she told the Guardian about her
modeling days. “I didn’t look at all like any of
the other fabulous-looking creatures.” Her luck
changed, though, when she appeared on the cover of
Harper’s Bazaar in the spring of 1943. Filmmaker How-
ard Hawks’s wife Nancy saw the 18-year-old on the front
of the magazine and mentioned to her husband that he
ought to think about casting her in something.
A year later, her first film hit theaters. To Have and Have
Not, the story goes, came together when Hawks made a bet
with author Ernest Hemingway that he could make a
movie out of Hemingway’s worst novel, which Hawks
deemed to be To Have and Have Not. Whether you
agree with Hawks’s assessment of the source material,
the film (which differs sharply from it) is a classic,
and Bacall was on her way, now dubbed Lauren
due to Hawks’s prompting.

T H E I NC O M P ARA B L E

L Bauren acall

Bacall12/16/1924-8/12/2014
“It was Howard Hawks who changed my life,” Bacall told
Vanity Fair in 2011. “Despite all of his great accomplish-
ments — Bringing Up Baby, Scarface, some of the best
pictures to that date — his one ambition was to find
a girl and invent her, to create her as his
perfect woman. He was my Svengali,
and I was to become, under his
tutelage, this big star, and he
would own me.”

]42 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

bacall was sexy because, even at a young age,
she exuded an adult sophistication.

But as much as Hawks wanted to control her — and, apparently, sleep with Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart in To Have and Have Not
her — he lost Bacall to her costar. When Bacall had gone to see Casablanca with
her aunt a few years earlier, she hadn’t been overly impressed with Humphrey that. So I’m not the most adored person on the face of the earth. But I wasn’t
Bogart. “[Aunt] Rosalie was mad about Humphrey Bogart,” Bacall wrote in put on earth to be liked. I have my own reasons for being and my own sense of
her 1978 memoir By Myself. “I thought he was good in it, but mad about him? what is important and what isn’t, and I’m not going to change that.”
Not at all. She thought he was sexy. I thought she was crazy.” That all changed She demonstrated that beautifully while doing press for Birth, the 2004
when she filmed To Have and Have Not with Bogart. Although he was married, film that starred Nicole Kidman as a woman convinced that a ten-year-old
Bogart kissed her one night while visiting her trailer. Soon, they were an item boy is the reincarnation of her beloved dead husband. A reporter asked Bacall,
— and soon after that, a love story onscreen mirrored one off it. As film critic a film legend, what it was like to work with Kidman, another legend. Bacall
Leonard Maltin described To Have and Have Not, “It’s one of these instances cut off the reporter: “What is this ‘legend’? [Kidman] can’t be a legend, you
where it’s quite possible that we are eyewitnesses to an actor or actress falling have to be older.” It was the sort of comment that we almost never see in
in love, and while good actors make us believe that all the time, there has to be the film press since celebrities are so careful not to ruffle any feathers. But
it wasn’t said out of spite; it was a simple fact. “What I meant was that her
some extra kick when it’s real.” career is just beginning,” Bacall later clarified to the Guardian. “She is won-
derfully talented, a working actress. I hate these labels, I hate categories. Why
Fame and love were hers now, as well as the establishment of her famous do they have to burden her with all that? Legends are all to do with the past
persona. Smoky voice — she finally gave up cigarettes in the 1980s — but and nothing to do with the present.”
also tough, funny, and vulnerable all at once, Bacall was sexy because, even Bacall probably understands that as well as anyone. When she shows up
at a young age, she exuded an adult sophistication. That’s all encapsulated in in a movie now, there’s a sense that a regal presence from another time has
the movie’s most famous line, her character Slim telling Bogart’s Steve, “You somehow beamed in to our universe. No doubt her decision to focus on being
know how to whistle, don’t you, Steve? You just put your lips together and” a mother and a wife curtailed her career, a choice with which professional
— pausing just long enough — “blow.” It’s delivered with utter confidence women in many different fields must contend. But like her modest assessment
and nonchalance, which is even more impressive considering how intimidated of her acting ability, she seems to be at peace with how things played out.
she was at first about being in front of the camera. It was Hawks’s suggestion “I put my career in second place throughout both my marriages and it
that she calm herself by putting her chin down and looking up that gave birth suffered,” she has said. “I don’t regret it You make choices.” As for her talent:
to her trademark sultry stare, which suggested a lifetime of experience and “I don’t consider myself a great actress. I’m just trying to stay alive, actually.
street smarts in someone so young. I think I’m good, and I’ve learned a lot, certainly, mostly in the theater. I’ve
Fresh from her star-making turn in To Have and Have Not, Bacall had been sloughed off movies for years. But what can you do? That’s life.”
other successes, costarring with Bogart in The Big Sleep — the trailer declared A pretty great one, actually.
“They’re Together Again!” — Dark Passage, and Key Largo, all in glorious black
and white. The two were married in 1945, and while she looked at their life
together as some of her happiest years, it took a toll on her career. “He had told
me that he wouldn’t marry me if I wanted a career,” she said in 2005. “He had
been married already to three actresses, each time a disaster. And I was so mad
about him I said, ‘Of course. Absolutely. I only want to be with you.’’’
She still acted — her 1950s highlights include How to Marry a Millionaire
and Written on the Wind — but by the time he died in 1957, her stardom was
more related to being married to Bogart than to her own fine work. “My obit
is going to be full of Bogart, I’m sure,” she once said. “I’ll never know if that’s
true. If that’s the way it is, that’s the way it is.” She left Los Angeles behind,
moved to New York, and focused on theater. She won two Tonys for lead
actress in musicals, for Applause and Woman of the Year. And she kept popping
up in films — Sidney Lumet’s Murder on the Orient Express in 1974, Robert
Altman’s Health in 1980 — but she seemed to have mostly left that life behind.
“You can’t imagine how beautiful L.A. was then,” she said about moving to
Hollywood as a young girl. “Of course, it’s all ruined now.”
If movie fame had faded, her life kept marching forward. She married Jason
Robards, their divorce one of the major topics covered in By Myself, which
won her the National Book Award. Whether it was speaking honestly about
her marriages or trying to break with the notion of how the traditional mother
should behave, Bacall has never lost the toughness she portrayed onscreen at
an early age. “I remember my oldest son, Steve, saying to me once, ‘I don’t ever
remember seeing you with an apron on,’’’ Bacall once said. “And I thought,
‘That’s right, honey, you did not.’ That was his concept of what a mother
should be.”
And she’s never lost that no-nonsense attitude either. “There have always
been rumors about me: Oh, she’s very difficult. Be careful of her,” she wrote in
By Myself. “People who don’t know me — even some people who do know me
— know that I say what I think. Very few people want to hear the truth. Bogie
was like that, my mother was like that, and I’m like that. I believe in the truth,
and I believe in saying what you think. Why not? Do you have to go around
whispering all the time or playing a game with people? I just don’t believe in

[O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 43

estate jewelry by DEBORAH YONICK

guardians of the

Estate

Fine, casual, chic jewelry does not always have to be newly made

Consumers searching for special pieces unique to them are finding that semi-precious stones as opposed to platinum and diamonds. She gained in-
jewels from the past deliver in design, craftsmanship, investment value creasing notoriety after a May 2012 Sotheby’s Geneva sale of her own per-
and personal meaning. sonal collection.

The market for antique and estate jewelry is robust, with demand Jewelry from the 1940s, especially big chunky bracelets in yellow and pink
strong in very rare, high-end pieces, gem quality pearls and colored stones gold, with sprinkles of diamonds, or necklaces with gems and enamel are
as well as fine signed jewels from top houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, spot on trend. Moreover, there’s a resurgence in brooches that also serve as
Cartier, Boucheron, Lalique and Harry Winston. There is also a growing pendants and hairpieces. In fact, head ornaments like tiaras and bejeweled
movement among brides and grooms to make their “something old” a headbands are very much in fashion. Likewise, cameos from all eras, some
wedding or engagement ring from the past. carved out of gems like layered agate and jasper, are back in vogue, especially
in pendants and rings.
Previously owned jewelry doesn’t always imply signed pieces from elite
jewelry houses, though. It is also possible to find affordable, meaningful But the real sizzle, many say, is in mid-century modern, particularly the
alternatives to auction pieces. And many pre-owned finds are unique, 1960-’70s, as more goods are available from this time than in earlier
with elements such as old mine cuts, romantic filigree designs and period periods, offering some amazing finds. Especially popu-
style characteristics, making them stand apart from more modern pieces. lar are wildlife and nature patterns, something that
There is also a lot of interest in recycling today, which appeals to buyers gained a following in the 1960s among major
of estate jewelry. houses like David Webb, Cartier and Van
Cleef & Arpels.
popul ar periods People who hunt for estate and antique
jewelry are drawn by the thrill of the chase.
Art Deco, nearly 100 years old now, remains the most enduring design You never know what your treasure-hunting
period in estate jewelry, a market favorite for its timeless on-trend qualities. dealer or retailer has uncovered in the dusty
Recognized for its mix of bold colors, geometric forms and diverse materi- jewelry boxes of previous owners who, for
als, Deco style is modern and easy to wear. Diamonds one reason or another, want to sell their
were very popular in the period, often with rubies, pieces – it’s always something different,
sapphires and emeralds, and the use of black onyx always a surprise. Imagine channeling your
contrasted with white diamonds and rock crystal inner Marilyn Monroe, wearing an amazing
is a defining characteristic. While the period cov- 1959 diamond floral necklace by Harry Win-
ers the early 1920s to mid 1930s, its influence ston! Collectors of estate jewelry relish in the
extends through the ’50s and ’60s, and into artistry, history and beauty of what they may
current day. discover.

Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Ar-
pels are considered to have created some
of their most iconic work during the Art
Deco period. But the buzz in estate circles
is that the works of Suzanne Belperron are
destined to be a collector’s favorite. Ahead
of her time, Belperron was among the most
revolutionary designers of the 20th century. A
head designer at Maison René Boivin (1919-
1932), her unsigned designs diverged from
conventional Art Deco style in gold and

]44 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



designer spotlight by CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR

Monelle Designs
unmatched from mine to market

Monelle Designs features
a wide range of diamond
earrings, including these

trendy tassels.

Exquisite diamond
engagement ring and
matching wedding band.

Contemporary, yet classic,
diamond bangles.

Engagement ring featuring A selection of stackable
diamonds on the top and diamond bangles.
sides of the shank.

Monelle Designs has a wide range of
bridal jewelry, with decorated shanks,
to accommodate a variety of solitaires.

Nikhil and Ela Jhaveri are two people who really know diamonds. So, just what are these heirlooms? Trendy tassels, elegant hoops, stack-
Drawing on four generations of experience and know-how dealing with able bangles, hearts, studs, right-hand rings, eternity bands and three-
the precious gems, they started their own business, Jhaveri Diamond stone rings are but a few of the brand’s luxurious, fashion-forward, and
Corporation, more than a quarter of a century ago, selling loose stones. A yet affordable diamond creations.
few years later, they created the fine jewelry company Monelle Designs,
also based in Los Angeles. While fashion designs make up about 40% of Monelle’s main produc-
tion, most of the remaining 60% is composed of exquisite bridal pieces.
“While selling the loose stones, we received so many requests for “This is a category that gives us special pleasure,” muses Nikhil. “Many of
finished jewelry that we decided to create a second company,” explains our customers share their story of how they became engaged. Many are
Nikhil. But for the Jhaveris, it was about more than just selling di- quite original, such as putting the ring in dessert or half-burying it in the
amond jewelry, as exquisite as it might be. “It was about creating a ground and leaving a piece to shine in the dark so the bride-to-be sees it
beautiful product based on our values,” he says. “We therefore sought in the moonlight. It’s amazing how creative people can be when popping
out retailers, such as Orloff Jewelers, that share these values and our the question.” Ela goes on to add, “We even have people who call us two
commitment to ethical practices, corporate social responsibility and or even three years later to tell us how much they love their wedding
conflict-free diamonds. rings. These stories bring us a lot of joy and touch our hearts.”

These are not mere words. The brand’s production partner is a mem- When not overseeing Monelle Designs, Nikhil Jhaveri is active in the
ber of the Responsible Jewelry Council, is ISO-Certified, and meets or jewelry community. He is a member of the Executive Committee of the
exceeds the global benchmarks for good governance and sustainability. World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and is president of the
The diamonds are also sourced directly from the mines, so they can be Diamond Club of the West Coast (for the last five years). Recently, he
certified as conflict-free. was appointed to the advisory board of the prestigious American Gem
Society (AGS) Lab. The AGS is the country’s preeminent jewelry trade
“We are also very demanding about the end product,” adds Ela, “not organization dedicated to consumer protection. Only a small percentage
only in terms of superb craftsmanship, but also in terms of design.” To this of jewelry stores belong to this elite group of dedicated professionals.
end, Monelle Designs works with detail-oriented designers from around
the world who have a finger on the pulse of fashion. “We look at trends Over the last 25 years, the Jhaveris have built their reputation on ser-
and then bring them to the consumer in ways that the designs still retain vice, attention to detail, and the promise of delivering the highest quality
their elegant timelessness,” she says. “Our goal is to provide sophisticated products at the most competitive prices. Clearly, this is why Monelle
yet simple heirlooms that are passed from one generation to the next.” Designs is unmatched from mine to market.

]46 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E



designer spotlight by CYNTHIA UNNINAYAR

spsaorkplhinisgticationthe Michael M. Collection

Drawing on a quarter-century of experience in manufacturing gold jewelry, Michael Meksian, along with his son Peter,
launched his own brand — Michael M. Collection — in 2008, specializing in high-end bridal and fashion jewelry.

“Each piece is handcrafted in the company’s Los Angeles workshop Today, six years after its creation, the Michael M. Collection is an
using only the finest diamonds, platinum, and 18k white, rose, or yellow internationally renowned diamond jewelry brand coveted by fashionable
gold,” explains Peter Meksian, the brand’s co-founder. During college, he and sophisticated women everywhere. This appreciation extends to the
had worked at his father’s factory and knew that Michael’s magnificent red carpet where Michael M. pieces can be seen on such celebrities as
artistry and unparalleled taste would provide the foundation for a collec- Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Hudson, Kelly Rowland, Catt Sadler, Miranda
tion of elegant and luxurious jewelry. Peter was right. With his vision and Kerr, and Angela Kinsey, among many others.
his father’s world-class designs and craftsmanship, success was quick in
coming for the Meksians.

The handcrafted channel and U-set shank
with U-set diamond crown gives this
engagement ring and matching band from
the Europa collection an air of total luxury.
Available in platinum, 18k white, yellow and
rose gold.

Princess side bezels add hidden detail Petite bands of pavé-set diamonds
to this ring in the Princesse collection, and delicate engraved details make a
featuring channel-set princess cut statement in this ring from the Michael
diamonds and rows of pavé-set diamonds M. Collection. Highly polished bands,
adding sparkle to the sides of the ring. elegance, and sophisticated design
Available in platinum, 18k white, yellow, unite to create this distinctively beautiful
and rose gold. engagement ring. Available in platinum,
18k white, yellow and rose gold.
]48 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E

Taking inspiration from Mother Nature From the Estrella collection, this
and authentic European design, ring showcases a handcrafted
U-set and prong-set split shank
styles range from traditional to modern, with diamond-tipped prongs.
from vintage-inspired to avant-garde. Available in platinum, 18k white,
yellow and rose gold.
The focal point of each engagement ring is the timeless diamond
solitaire that blends with signature elements from the most popular This Amore engagement ring features
styles. Graceful curves and diamond accents punctuate the delicate a single string of channel-set
hand-engraved details on the brand’s rings, all characterized by their diamonds decorating the shoulders,
femininity and dainty flourishes. set in a highly polished band.
The hallmarks of a Michael M. ring are the regal European shank, Available in platinum, 18k white,
brilliant micro-pavé and unique U-setting, all of which translate into yellow, and rose gold.
more beauty and brilliance. Master artisans scoop the metal into a U
shape that embraces each individual diamond along the shoulders, al- This handcrafted U-set engagement
lowing the diamond detail to be seen from every angle. The inside of the ring in the Vercelli collection
U is polished to create a mirror-like finish. Exquisitely cut diamonds, features pavé-set diamond details
more light, a mirror finish and a higher ratio of diamonds-to-metal than on the prongs and undercarriage
any other designer all ensure that each Michael M. design features less of the ring for sparkle from every
metal, more diamonds, and more sparkle. angle. Available in platinum, 18k
Among the brand’s popular engagement rings is the Strada collec- white, yellow and rose gold.
tion. Available in a variety of cuts and designs, the name means road
in Italian, and features extraordinary channel-set diamond shanks that Rows of graduated diamonds in
suggest a journey on the road of life. the Strada collection form paths
The Princesse collection was created specifically for the princess-cut along an elegant European-style
diamond, a square shape that sits like an inverted pyramid. Whether engagement ring, with diamond
flanked by cascading side stones or surrounded by dazzling micro-pavé, details adding sparkle from every
the square has never seemed so progressive. angle. Available in platinum, 18k
Featuring the designer’s signature micro-pavé diamond setting, rings white, yellow and rose gold.
in the Amore collection are simple, elegant, and classic. The unparal-
leled brilliance highlights and enhances the choice of center stone. [O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E 49
In the Europa collection, the specialty U-setting places the center
stone on a regal crown, and elevates the setting to a proposal fit for a
queen. Inspired by classic European styling, these rings bring a touch
of refinement to fashion-forward design.
The Estrella collection burns brightly and warms the hearts of wear-
ers everywhere. The finest diamonds, combined with meticulous Euro-
pean craftsmanship, along with intertwined bezel set, channel and pavé
diamonds create a magnificent piece of art to enjoy for a lifetime.
For the one-of-a-kind bride, the Vercelli collection exemplifies Mi-
chael M.’s couture artistry. Highly unique settings mingle with chan-
nel-set shanks to produce amazing results. It is perfect for the groom
who knows that an ordinary settling is simply not an option.
Each Micheal M. piece is engraved with an individual ID number,
ensuring authenticity. Its lifetime warranty guarantees heirloom quality
jewelry that will sparkle with sophistication for generations to come.

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]50 O R L O F F J E W E L E R S M A G A Z I N E