malai by pickcherisk

2018







Malai C ATA LOGUE
INDEX

01 What is Malai?

6 - 7 / WHAT IS MALAI? / INTRO
8 - 9 / MATERIAL INNOVATION / MATERIALCHARACTERISTICS

02 Why Malai?

1 0 - 1 1 / F I N DI N G SOLUTI ON S / PROBLEMS WE A RE TA RGETI N G
1 2 - 1 3 / F I N DI N G SOLUTI ON S / A DVA N TAGES OF MA LA I

03 How Malai is made?

14 - 15 / HOW MALAI IS MADE / INTRO
16 - 17 / PROCESS & MAKING / MAIN INGREDIENTS

18 - 19 / PROCESS & MAKING / STEPS 1 - 5

04 The Material

20 - 23 / HOW TO WORK WITH MALAI / MATERIAL C ARE
24 - 25 / HOW TO WORK WITH MALAI / MATERIAL GUIDELINES
26 - 27 / MATERIAL RANGE / OUR COLOUR PALETTE
28 - 29 / MATERIAL RANGE/ MATERIAL SPECIFIC ATIONS

05 Products

30 - 33 / APPLIC ATIONS / ACCESSORIES, INTERIORS, FOOTWEAR

34 - 35 / MALAI STUDIO LINE / PRODUCTS

06 Malai Company

36 - 37 / RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT / INTRO
38 - 39 / RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT / HOW WE WORK
40 - 41 / WHO WE ARE / HOW MALAI BEGAN
32 - 43 / WHO WE ARE / TEAM
44 - 45 / WHO WE WORK WITH / COLLABORATORS & PARTNERS
4 6 - 4 7 / CON TACT / GET I N TOUCH!

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MALAI

What is Malai?

Malai is a newly developed
biocomposite material made from
bacterial cellulose, grown on
agricultural waste sourced from
the coconut industry in Southern
India. The word ‘Malai’ refers
directly to the creamy flesh of the
coconut and it is the coconut water
(a by-product from the harvesting
of this flesh) that sustains the
bacteria whilst they are producing
the cellulose, which is then in
turn collected and refined until
it becomes the finished material:
Malai.

COCONUTFARM

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MALAI

M A L A I M AT E R I A L I N VA R I O U S C O L O U R S

MATERIAL INNOVATION

01 What is Malai?

MATERIAL CHARACTERISTICS

Compostable
All ingredients that go into Malai making
are compostable and shall biodegrade in
the compost within 90 days.

Water resistant Strong Recyclable

It is water resistant Malai’s strength Malai is made from
although it prefers not is comparable to cellulose fibres that
to get wet as it loses vegetable tanned can be recycled into
some of its strength. leather of similar paper products.
thickness.

Sustainable Healthy Flexible

All our ingredients are It contains absolutely Malai is material with
sourced from trusted no artificial ‘nasties’ semi soft temper
partners all over India. it will not cause any similar to veg tanned
allergies, intolerances leather.
or illness.

Breathable Vegan

Malai is quite porous Malai is completely
as a material. We vegan and as such
ensure all our coatings you could even eat it!
maintain this property.

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MALAI

Why Malai?

We are inspired by the beauty and
purity of natural materials, and by
the life-cycle and ecology of the
coconut palm in particular. We
research and explore methods
and sustainable resources to
produce new biomaterials with
impeccable environmental
credentials due to our emphasis
on the use of wholly natural and
healthy materials.

02 Why Malai? FINDING SOLUTIONS

PROBLEMS WE A RE TA RGETI N G

UNSUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Malai aims to find
alternative solutions
Faux to problems created
Leather by conventional
production practises.
PVC is non- recyclable and non-
biodegradable and releases volatile AGRICULTURAL WASTE
compounds (phthalates), isn’t breathable.
Natural
Leather Fibres
Processing
Banana plants are cultivated all over
Energy, water consuming, polluting South India, Kerala is the biggest
industry, is all that worth of producing a producer of all states. However, once
the banana fruit is harvested the stem
material for a handbag? of the plant gets discarded or gets
converted into biomass. A very good
Solid quality fibre can be extracted from the
Waste banana stem - we are using the same
for making Malai.
2 kg of solid waste is produced for
every 1 kg of leather. Coconut
Water
Toxic
Chemicals There is currently no use for this type
of water and hence it’s often released
There are more than 400 different into drainage.
types of chemicals used in leather
processing, many of them are toxic to
the environment. They are traceable in

both leather and faux leather.

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MALAI

MAL AI MAT ER I AL I N VAR I O US COLOURS

FINDING SOLUTIONS

02 Why Malai?

A DVA N TAGES OF MA LA I

ENVIRONMENTALLY CONSCIOUS At the forefront of
Malai’s goals are
Ecological practises that are
Malai is 100% biodegradable, has environmentally and
socially conscious.
low CO2 emissions and is made
entirely without using aggressive SOCIALLY CONSCIOUS

chemicals or plastics.

Economical Social

We are working on the development We work with traditional leather
of a unique raw material sourcing artisans in India for making products
system that will ensure 100% from Malai - in effort to sustain their
utilisation of raw material from livelihoods and moreover to preserve
agricultural waste. It is possible to the unique skills that have been handed
form Malai into sheets of specific down from generation to generation
pattern/shape eliminating offcut during history of leatherworking crafts.
waste. We have developed a
process of 3D moulding of Malai Closed-loop
- creating objects with no seams. system
Both sides of Malai have same
appearance, both directions have Our aim is to establish a working
the same tensile strength. supply chain system that involves
coconut and banana farmers who
would gain additional revenue from
selling us their coconut water and
banana fibre. We bring in product that
comes from nature and can return
safely back to it in a form of nutrient.

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MALAI

How Malai is made?

We bring in a product that
comes from nature and can
safely return back to it in the
form of a nutrient.
We have developed processes &
technologies to produce Malai
and achieve a point where we
can design, mould and make it
into seamless
accessories and products.

MALAI FIBRES SETTLING IN THE VAT

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MALAI

BANANA FIBRES GUM ARABICA
DA M A R N AT U R A L R E S I N BACTERIAL CELLULOSE

PROCESS & MAKING

03 How Malai is made.

MAIN INGREDIENTS

BASE INGREDIENTS Our base ingredient is
a natural polymer
Bacterial synthesized by bacteria
Cellulose mixed with fibres for
strength and bound
Natural polymer together with natural
synthesized by bacteria gums and resins.

Acetobacter Xylinum BINDING & COATING
that feeds on water Natural Gums
& Resins
from mature coconuts.
It is cellulose in its Natural
purest form. Oils

Natural
Fibres

Banana fibre, hemp fibre,
sisal fibre.

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MALAI

How Malai ismade? PROCESS & MAKING

03 STEPS 1 & 2

O1 Collection
We work alongside Southern India’s
coconut farmers and processing units
who find themselves with much coconut
water ‘waste’ after they’ve removed
the harvest of white flesh from inside
the mature coconuts. Normally this
waste water would be released into
the drainage system, but this in itself
causes pollution of water and the soil to
become acidified.

O2 Fermentation
We rescue this coconut water, place it
into vats and sterilise it, resulting in an
energy-rich, entirely natural nutrient
upon which our bacterial culture can
feed. We combine the nutrient and the
culture and then just let the bacteria do
its thing. The fermentation period takes
between twelve to fourteen days, at the
end of which time: hey presto! A sheet
of cellulose ‘jelly’ has been produced!

PROCESS & MAKING

03 How Malai ismade?

STEPS 3, 4 & 5

O3 Natural colouring
A range of colours can be achieved
through the addition of natural dyes,
if so desired.

O4 Formation
We harvest the jelly which then
undergoes a process of refinement.
It is enriched with natural fibres, gums
and resins to create a more durable
and flexible material which may then
be formed into flat sheets in a range of
thicknesses and textures, or moulded
seamlessly into 3D structures.

O5 Crushing & Coating
The final stages for creating Malai
include leaving it to air-dry and then
softening it whilst applying gentle a
water-resistant treatment (without
adding any plastic coatings or synthetic
ingredients). We soften Malai through
the process of mechanical crinkling and
crushing to refine the temper of Malai.

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MALAI

The Material?

Malai is a material with character.
We make Malai material in a
variety of thicknesses, colours
and finishes. We can produce
it in sheets and we have also
developed a process whereby
we can create seamless three-
dimensional objects using a
moulding technique.

04 The Material HOW TO WORK WITH MALAI

MATERIAL C ARE

Dispose/Recycle
When you feel your Malai product has reached the end of its lifecycle
it can be disposed of in your compost bin (once any metal parts or
trimmings have been removed). Alternatively we offer a recycling
service to our customers: send us your old Malai product and receive
10% off your next purchase. (terms & conditions apply).

Moisturise Repair Clean

Malai is a very user-friendly Although tough by nature Yup, don’t panic if you spill
material. Because of its and designed to remain in something on your Malai or
entirely natural composition good condition for many if it becomes dirty because
it is sensitive to humidity, years, Malai will eventually it can be wiped clean with
much like paper or leather. start to break down. We can- a damp cloth and then left
To ensure it remains at its not predict the rate at which to air-dry (although it won’t
best we suggest applying this will happen because it survive a trip through the
a thin layer of polishing is very specific to its treat- washing machine). We advise
wax (either a clear shoe ment and the environment. against drying with intense
polish or a furniture grade Although we do not operate heat or ironing it as this may
wax) or coconut oil (to a repair service, should dam- cause damage. When it has
continue Malai’s completely age occur please contact dried, applying natural wax
vegan credentials) to us and we will endeavour will help restore it to its
the surface to ensure it to suggest how it could be original condition.
remains moisturised. This is fixed.
especially
advisable during hot, dry 21
weather or after cleaning.
MALAI

A WORM MUNCHING ON DECOMPOSING MALAI IN A COMPOST

04 The Material HOW TO WORK WITH MALAI

MATERIAL C ARE

Composting
Malai is fully compostable material that will biodegrade in compost
in 90-120 days ( depending on climatic conditions). There is nothing
in the composition of the material that wouldn’t be able to get back
to nature and eventually become a nurtient for the soil.
If you want to compost your malai, simply remove all the metal
trimmings / zippers, shred or cut the material into smaller pieces
(we recommend 3x3cm) and mix into your compost. Make sure your
compost is properly hydrated, has the right temperature range and
most importantly – that it’s alive !

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MALAI

STRIPS OF MALAI

04 The Material HOW TO WORK WITH MALAI

MATERIAL GUIDELINES

Finishing Edges Joining

If left unfinished, cut edges of Malai Pieces of Malai can be joined using
can fray slightly over time and hand or machine sewing, glueing
or any other technique you would
wear. We recommend to seal them probably use for joining leather and
applying wax, water-based glue or it’s imitations. Please use an industrial
or leather sewing machine for better
secure them with a single line of results – the material is quite robust.
stitching. We do recommend to back Malai with
an adhesive lining if the gsm is lower
Texture than 600. We are working on improving
this and we hope to bring the results of
It comes with a natural texture that our material research to you as soon as
if desired can be made smoother by possible.

using a calendering process. Embossing

Cutting Malai can be embossed using
stamps or any kind of leather\textile
The best way to cut through Malai embossing machine.
of any thickness is to use a sharp
bladed knife. We also recommend Printing
to cut Malai with a pair of sharp
scissors. Malai is also suitable for Malai can be screen printed on using
laser cutting and for die cutting. pigments suitable for cellulosic fibres.

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MALAI

N AT U R A L DY E S I N T H E I R R AW FO R M

04 The Material MATERIAL RANGE

OUR COLOUR PALETTE

Colours
Malai is available in a range of colours
achieved through the use of mordant-
free natural dyes and it can develop a
soft sheen or patina over time. All our
dyes come from the flower, bark or tuber of
plants found locally in India.

Natural Dark Grey Madder Red

Dark Indigo Dusky Pink Cumin Yellow

Cutch Brown Leafy Green Light Indigo

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MALAI

MALAI WITH DIFFERENT TEXTURES

04 The Material MATERIAL RANGE

MATERIAL SPECIFIC ATIONS

MATERIAL DETAILS Malai is highly
customisable when it
Sheets comes to weight. The
> 80cm x 120cm higher the weight the
stronger the material.
moulded products ( work in progress) Thinner weights are
more flexible and softer.
Finish We can accomodate
> matt the material weight
depending on your
> semi-glossy application.

Texture Thickness(Gsm)
> malai natural texture > 1mm 400-450 gsm
> malai embossed texture ( upon request) > 1-1.5mm 550-600 gsm
> 1.5-2mm 750-850 gsm

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MALAI

INTERIOR OBJECT BY LIBENA ROCHOVA, 2019

APPLIC ATIONS

05 Products

INTERIORS, FURNITURE

PLANT TEXTILES, PILLOW CASE,
2019

TON BAR STOOL, 2018
STOOL SEAT PI LLOW, MA LA I
STUDIO, 2020

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MALAI

MALAI x CRAFTING PLASTICS! STUDIO

05 The Material APPLIC ATIONS

FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSIORIE

EVA & LUCIE SANDALS MALAI x PLAYB AG
MALAI x KAZETO MALAI x AHINSA BAREFOOT

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MALAI

CIRCULAR DESIGN CHALLENGE, 2020

05 The Material MALAI STUDIO LINE

PRODUCTS

ACCESSORIES FROM FIN[it]E COLLECTION, 2019

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MALAI

What we do?

Material Research &
Development. We research
materials that are based on
Bacterial Cellulose, Natural
Fibres and other ingredients
of natural origin. We focus
on developing materials that
are biodegradable, have low
environmental impact and are
safe to make, use and dispose
of. Developing materials with
specific properties, appearance,
behaviour and architecture is in
our scope.

BOTTLES WITH BACTERIAL CELLULOSE CULTURES

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MALAI

MALAI RESEARCH

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

06 Malai Company

HOW WE WORK

Material research
We research and study locally available raw materials (coconut
shells, coir, natural fibres, natural resins..) and analyse their
potential for being converted into materials and products. We
then take the journey further, developing and/or identifying
technology to process these materials into finished products.

Material development
We can develop variations of Malai material and
materials based on bacterial cellulose according to
the client’s specifications and material’s application.

Colour & texture development
We work exclusively with natural dyes applied on
cellulose fibres. We can develop customised colour
palettes according to client’s specification.

Customised low volume products
We ensure low volume production of stationary,
packaging and fashion accessories and products
employing local manufacturers and craftsmen.

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MALAI

How Malai began?

Zuzana & Susmith met in Mumbai
in 2015, by which time Zuzana had
already been working on bacterial
cellulose as a material for over 3
years. She was keen to explore the
potential in India for employing a
traditional bacterial-cellulose growth
process used in the Philippines,
where ‘Nata de Coco’ (the Filipino
version of this substance) is an
important part of the food industry.
The name of Susmith’s home region
can literally be translated as ‘the
land of coconuts’, which given the
circumstances, was a good sign!

WHO WE ARE

06 Malai Company

FOUNDERS

Having started experimenting with growing
materials on a small scale, before long Zuzana
and Susmith discovered they shared more
profound values, a passion for craft and making
as well as a concern for sustainability and the
environment.

Oh, also, not only do they both
love a good coconut but they are
firm believers in coconut karma
whereby people who behave
badly will one day have a well-
deserved coconut fall on their
heads as punishment!

In 2017 they moved to a coconut-

cultivating region in Southern

India and began working full-time

to develop Malai and to consider

Zuzana gombosova the context in which this new

Zuzana is a material researcher and designer material could be applied.

from Slovakia. She is a graduate from the They chose to target the
MA Material Futures course at Central Saint sustainable fashion market
Martin’s College of Arts and Design. because of Malai’s aesthetic

Susmith C. Suseelan appeal and with a view that

Susmith is a product designer and maker from fashion is the second most

Kerala. He is a graduate of MDes Product polluting industry, beaten only

design & Manufacturing at IISc Bangalore and by oil.

has a background in mechanical engineering.

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MALAI



WHO WE ARE

06 Malai Company

TEAM

Malai production team in our rural facility in Kerala

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MALAI

COCONUT WORKER

06 Malai Company WHO WE WORK WITH

COLLABORATORS & PARTNERS

Working with Malai.
Our aim is to work with local coconut and
banana farmers, collaborate with leather artisans,
designers, maker communities and companies
that are keen to explore R&D.

Local Coconut Farmers Designers
We work in close partnership with the Malai product line is a small
local coconut farmers and processing collection of products made
units in our region of South India who from Malai designed and made
provide us with their waste water in collaboration with various
from mature coconuts, the primary international designers eager to
resource we need to start the growth experiment with our material. It is
of our bacterial cellulose, which will made in collaboration with local
eventually be transformed into Malai. artisans focusing on exploring
Leather Artisans material’s use across various
We work with traditional leather fields like upholstery, furniture,
artisans all across India who footwear, bags, accessories...etc.
have been in particularly difficult
situations in society. This group of Maker Communities
artisans face a shortage of leather We also collaborate with local
material and are therefore no communities of makers as well
longer able to develop and preserve as working with suppliers whose
their skills. Many of them have ethical approach is transparent
been forced to find menial jobs in and verified.
factories. We encourage them to use
their skills applied on Malai material Companies
and work towards sustaining their We are very keen to work with com-
craft and abilities. panies that are interested in R&D
and the adoption of new manufac-
turing techniques.

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MALAI

B ACKWATERS OF K E RALA

06 Malai Company CON TACT

GET IN TOUCH!

Where we’re based
Our studio &
manufacturing unit
are currently based in
Cherthala, Kerala.

Malai Biomaterials Design pvt. ltd.

[email protected] @ w w w. m a l a i . e c o

+91 9072211133 / +917907156996 malai.biomaterials

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MALAI



Catalogue designed by

LEA ONEKO

HARSH MAKHIJA
(PICKCHERISK.CO.IN)