Mk.II Power Sharpening System - Veritas Tools

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Mk.II Power Sharpening
System

U.S. Patent No. 6,676,495

INS-216-02 Rev. G

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Limited Warranty

Veritas® Tools Inc. warrants the Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System against faulty
materials or workmanship for a period of five years from date of purchase, less the electrical
components (including the motor and all wiring), which are warranted for a period of two
years from date of purchase. This warranty does not apply to wearing parts such as abrasives
and V-belt. During the warranty period, the defective product will be repaired or replaced
without charge or, at our option, the purchase price will be refunded. This warranty does
not cover damage caused by misuse or ordinary wear.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may have other rights, which vary
from one jurisdiction to another.

CANADA: 1090 Morrison Drive, Ottawa, ON K2H 1C2
USA: 814 Proctor Avenue, Ogdensburg, NY 13669-2205

[email protected]
www.veritastools.com

© Veritas Tools Inc. 2009

ii

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Introduction ................................................................................................. 1
Safety Rules.......................................................................................................................... 2
Table 1: Minimum Gauge for Extension Cord.......................................................... 2
Requirements ........................................................................................................................ 3
Grounding Instructions ............................................................................................. 3
Règles de sécurité ................................................................................................................. 5
Tableau 1 : Jauge nominale d’une rallonge............................................................... 5
Exigences.............................................................................................................................. 7
Consignes de mise à la terre...................................................................................... 7

Chapter 2: Unpacking & Assembly............................................................................... 9

Chapter 3: General Principles – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes...............11
Quick Start ....................................................................................................................... 11
Tool Registration ................................................................................................................ 12
Abrasives ............................................................................................................................ 12
Micro-Bevels ...................................................................................................................... 12
Tool Holding....................................................................................................................... 13
Standard Projection................................................................................................. 13
Short Projection ..................................................................................................... 13
Skew Chisels ........................................................................................................... 13

Chapter 4: Operation – Straight-Edged Tools:Chisels and Planes..............................15
How to Sharpen a New Tool............................................................................................... 15
Step 1: Lapping ....................................................................................................... 15
Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel............................................................................ 16
Step 3: Create the Micro-Bevel............................................................................... 17
How to Resharpen a Tool.................................................................................................... 17
How to Sharpen a Damaged Tool ....................................................................................... 17
Buffing/Honing................................................................................................................... 18
To Use ..................................................................................................................... 18
Convex Cutting Edge.......................................................................................................... 18

Chapter 5: Freehand Sharpening – Carving Tools and Other Tools ...........................19
Buffing Wheel – Horizontal................................................................................................ 19
Gouges and Parting Tools ................................................................................................... 19
Other Tools ......................................................................................................................... 20

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Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Chapter 6: Care and Maintenance ..............................................................................21

Lubrication ......................................................................................................................... 21
Abrasives ............................................................................................................................ 21
Spare Parts .......................................................................................................................... 21
V-Belt.................................................................................................................................. 21

To replace the belt ................................................................................................... 21
Sound and Vibration Damping ........................................................................................... 22

Chapter 7: Troubleshooting..........................................................................................23

Sharpening on the Platter.................................................................................................... 23
Micro-Bevel and Primary Bevel Not Parallel ......................................................... 23
Micro-Bevel on the Heel Instead of the Edge ........................................................ 23
Excessive Heat Build-Up ....................................................................................... 23
Edge Not Square Across Tool ................................................................................ 24
Incomplete Micro-Bevel ......................................................................................... 25

Motor Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................... 25
Drive Train .............................................................................................................. 25
V-Belt Tension Adjustment ..................................................................................... 25

Appendix A: Exploded Assemblies & Master Parts List ..............................................26

Parts #3 & #4 Tool Guide Assembly .................................................................................. 28
Part #5 Tool Holder Assembly............................................................................................ 28

Appendix B: Optional & Accessory Parts ....................................................................29

Appendix C: General Sharpening Procedures ............................................................31

CHISELS ........................................................................................................................... 31
Removing the Lacquer ............................................................................................ 31
Lapping the Face of the Chisel ............................................................................... 31
Shaping the Edge .................................................................................................... 32
When to Resharpen? ............................................................................................... 33
Buffing or Stropping Chisels .................................................................................. 34

Utility Bevel-Edge Chisels ................................................................................................. 34
Paring Chisels ..................................................................................................................... 35
Mortise and Firmer Chisels ................................................................................................ 35
Skew Chisels....................................................................................................................... 36
Corner Chisels .................................................................................................................... 36
Japanese Chisels ................................................................................................................. 37
PLANES ............................................................................................................................. 38
Tuning a Plane .................................................................................................................... 38
Sharpening the Blade of a Plane......................................................................................... 40

Choosing a Bevel Angle.......................................................................................... 40
Bench Planes ...................................................................................................................... 40
Smoothing Planes (#3, #4½, #5½) ..................................................................................... 41
Scrub Plane ......................................................................................................................... 41
Jack Planes, Jointer Planes and Others (#5, #6, #7 and #8) ............................................... 41

iv

Table of Contents

Block Planes ....................................................................................................................... 41
Bevel Angles .......................................................................................................... 42
Low-Angle Block Planes ........................................................................................ 43

KNIVES.............................................................................................................................. 43
Sharpening Kitchen Knives ................................................................................................ 43

Bevel Angles ........................................................................................................... 44
Using a Belt Sander ................................................................................................ 44
Using Stones ........................................................................................................... 45
Marking Knives .................................................................................................................. 45
Drawknives ......................................................................................................................... 45
Carver’s Drawknife ................................................................................................. 45
CARVING TOOLS............................................................................................................. 46
Sharpening Gouges............................................................................................................. 46
Choosing a Bevel Angle.......................................................................................... 46
Rounding the Bevel................................................................................................. 50
Gouge Tips – Fingernail, Square End or Swept Forward? ..................................... 51
Truing the Sweep .................................................................................................... 51
Honing a Gouge ...................................................................................................... 52
Bent Gouges ....................................................................................................................... 53
Back-Bent Gouges .................................................................................................. 54
Veining Tools ...................................................................................................................... 54
Parting Tools ....................................................................................................................... 54
Shaping the Heel ..................................................................................................... 54
Wing Sweep ............................................................................................................ 55
Sharpening Parting Tools ........................................................................................ 56
Inshaves .............................................................................................................................. 56
Scorps ................................................................................................................................. 57
Micro-Scorps........................................................................................................... 57
Hook Knives ....................................................................................................................... 57
Keeping Carving Tools Sharp............................................................................................. 58
Index ............................................................................................................................59

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Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System
vi

Introduction

Chapter 1

Introduction

The Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System will efficiently sharpen any straight-edged chisel, plane blade or
carving tool to a degree of sharpness that cannot be surpassed by any other method. It is also an excellent general-
purpose system for a wide variety of tools with shaped edges, including gouges and V-tools.

The system features a turntable equipped with an 8" disc that rotates at 650 rpm. Above the turntable are a tool
holder and tool guide that make it possible to sharpen blades at specific, repeatable bevel angles, ranging from 15°
to 45°.

The main components are shown in Figure 1 (below) to help you with the terminology used throughout this manual.
Exploded assemblies and parts list are shown in Appendix A.

Platter Retention Tool Holder
Thumbscrew

Turntable

Abrasive Discs (4) Tool Guide
Assembly
4mm thick
Platter

3mm thick
Platter

Locking Screw

Hex Keys (2)

Bevel Gauge Registration Jig

Figure 1: Main components. Power Cord with
On/Off Switch

1

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

WARNING: For your own safety, read the 5. Wear proper eye protection. Everyday eyeglasses
instructions manual before operating the have only impact-resistant lenses; they are not
Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System. safety glasses. Also use a face or dust mask if the
grinding operation is dusty. Visitors should wear
Safety Rules the same protection.

These safety instructions are provided to ensure safe use 6. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY. All visitors should
of theVeritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System. To ensure be kept a safe distance from work area. MAKE
your own safety, read these before you begin to use this WORKSHOP KID PROOF with padlocks, master
product and always follow these safety instructions. switches, or by removing starter keys.

1. Learn the tool’s applications and limitations as well 7. Wear proper apparel. Avoid wearing loose clothing,
as the specific hazards related to the tool. gloves, ties, rings and bracelets, as these can get
caught in moving parts.
2. Use common sense. If an action appears to be
unsafe, it likely is. DON’T OVERREACH. Keep 8. Long hair should be tied back and secured.
proper footing and balance at all times.
9. Do not work under the influence of drugs, alcohol, or
3. Use correct power supply. Never use a power medication. Drugs, alcohol, medication and lack of
source for which this tool was not designed. It sleep cause impaired judgment and coordination and
could cause serious injury. This tool is equipped should not be combined with power tool operation.
with a three-prong plug; it should be plugged into
a three-hole electric receptacle. An adapter should 10. Use in an appropriate environment. Power tools
be properly grounded (see Grounding Instructions, should be used only in dry, clean and well-lit
page 3). environments. Exposure to rain or use in the
presence of flammable liquids or gases could result
4. REDUCE THE RISK OF UNINTENTIONAL in damage or injury. Don’t use power tools in damp
STARTING. Make sure switch is in off position or wet locations, or expose them to rain.
before plugging in. USE PROPER EXTENSION
CORD. Make sure your extension cord is in good 11. Keep power cord away from heat, oil and sharp edges.
condition. When using an extension cord, be sure
to use one heavy enough to carry the current your 12. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches before use.
product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a Form habit of checking to see that keys and
drop in line voltage, resulting in loss of power and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before
overheating. Table 1 shows the correct size to use, turning it on.
depending on cord length and nameplate ampere
rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier gauge. The 13. Keep hands away from moving parts until they
smaller the gauge number, the heavier the cord. have come to a complete stop and the power has
been disconnected.

14. Keep workplace clean. Cluttered work areas invite
accidents.

Table 1: Minimum Gauge for Extension Cord.

Ampere Rating Volts Total length of cord in feet

120 V 25 ft 50 ft 100 ft 150 ft

More Than Not More AWG
Than
0 18 16 16 14
6 6 18 16 14 12
10 10 16 16 14 12
12 12 14 12 Not Recommended
16

2

Introduction

15. Do not use the sharpening system if it is damaged. 26. Never attempt a leading cut with a buffing/honing
A tool that does not operate correctly is a safety disc. Always use a trailing cut so that the disc
hazard and should be fixed before further use. A rotates away from the edge.
part that is damaged should be carefully checked to
determine that it will operate properly and perform 27. Never adjust the tool guide when the system is
its intended function – check for alignment of running.
moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of
parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may 28. DON’T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better
affect its operation. and safer at the rate for which it was designed.

16. Always disconnect the tool from the power source 29. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don’t force tool or attachment
when installing an accessory, adjusting the drive to do a job for which it was not designed.
belt or any other part. NEVER LEAVE TOOL
RUNNING UNATTENDED. TURN POWER OFF. 30. USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES. Consult
the owner’s manual for recommended accessories.
17. Refer to the Care and Maintenance section of this The use of improper accessories may cause risk of
manual for repairs and service details. Use only injury to persons.
identical replacement parts.
31. Grinding creates heat. Do not touch the ground
18. Do not alter or misuse the tool. Stop any operation portion of the workpiece until you are sure that the
immediately if you notice anything abnormal. workpiece has cooled.

19. Handle blades with care. This product will allow 32. Always pay attention to the position of a blade in
the user to sharpen blades to a far greater degree relation to all parts of your body. Orient the tool
than is otherwise commonly possible. in relation to the direction of the moving abrasive
so that its edge will not point toward you should
20. Support workpiece with the tool guide and you ever lose your grip on it. Try to visualize (or
sharpening system on the work surface. Never predict) where the workpiece will go if control is
lower the tool guide assembly so that it contacts lost, and keep out of the way.
a rotating disc. Make sure the workpiece is not
in contact with the turntable before the power is Requirements
turned on. Wait until the sharpening system attains
full speed before proceeding. There are some basic requirements for the operation of
your Power Sharpening System:
21. Make sure the blade does not contact the platter
retention thumbscrew while the sharpening system • Power: the cord must be plugged into a 120-volt
is turned on. grounded outlet on a 15 amp circuit.

22. When the sharpening system is not in use, store it in Grounding Instructions
a dry area, elevated and out of the reach of children.
1. All grounded, cord-connected tools:
23. Do not yank the power cord to disconnect from In the event of a malfunction or breakdown,
receptacle. Instead, use the molded plug to remove grounding provides a path of least resistance
the cord from receptacle. for electric current to reduce the risk of electric
shock. This tool is equipped with an electric cord
24. The sharpening system should be used on a flat and having an equipment-grounding conductor and a
stable surface. grounding plug. The plug must be plugged into
a matching outlet that is properly installed and
25. Do not operate in gaseous or explosive or other grounded in accordance with all local codes and
environments with loose combustible substances ordinances. Do not modify the plug provided
(e.g., wood dust). Sparks from sharpening may cause – if it will not fit the outlet, have the proper
fumes, dust or other materials to ignite. If you are outlet installed by a qualified electrician. Improper
using a Shop-Vac® or other vacuum for abrasive dust connection of the equipment-grounding conductor
collection, remove any combustible material from it can result in a risk of electric shock. The conductor
(e.g., wood dust and chips) before sharpening. with insulation having an outer surface that is green

3

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

with or without yellow stripes is the equipment- Cover of Grounded
grounding conductor. If repair or replacement Outlet Box
of the electric cord or plug is necessary, do not
connect the equipment-grounding conductor to a Temporary
live terminal. Check with a qualified electrician Adapter
or service personnel if the grounding instructions
are not completely understood, or if in doubt as to (A) Metal (B)
whether the tool is properly grounded. Use only Grounding Pin Screw
three-wire extension cords that have three-prong
grounding plugs and three-pole receptacles that Figure 2: Grounding methods.
accept the tool’s plug. Repair or replace damaged
or worn cord immediately. • Work Surface: the system has been designed to be
comfortable to use when placed on a work surface
2. Grounded, cord-connected tools intended for between 30" and 36" from the floor. This provides a
use on a supply circuit having a nominal rating 38" to 44" working height. The same work surface
less than 150 volts: should also have ample space around it so that tools
This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an and accessories may be placed where they can be
outlet that looks like the one illustrated in Sketch kept close at hand.
A in Figure 2. The tool has a grounding plug
that looks like the plug illustrated in Sketch A in • Light: good lighting is important when evaluating
Figure 2. A temporary adapter, which looks like the progress of sharpening.
the adapter illustrated in Sketch B, may be used
to connect this plug to a two-pole receptacle as
shown in Sketch B if a properly grounded outlet
is not available. The temporary adapter should
be used only until a properly grounded outlet can
be installed by a qualified electrician. The green-
colored rigid ear, lug, and the like, extending from
the adapter must be connected to a permanent
ground such as a properly grounded outlet box.

4

Introduction

AVERTISSEMENT : Pour votre propre Plus le numéro de jauge est petit, plus le calibre des
sécurité, lisez le guide d’utilisation avant de conducteurs est élevé.
faire fonctionner le système d’affûtage électrique
Mk.II Veritas®. 5. Porter la protection des yeux appropriée. Les
lunettes qu’on porte tous les jours sont seulement
Règles de sécurité munies de verres résistants aux chocs; ce ne sont
pas des lunettes de sécurité. Utiliser également un
Les présentes consignes de sécurité visent à faire en sorte masque facial ou antipoussières lorsqu’on procède
que le système d’affûtage électrique Mk.II Veritas® soit à un affûtage qui dégage de la poussière. Les
utilisé de façon sécuritaire. Pour votre propre sécurité, visiteurs doivent porter la même protection.
veuillez les lire avant de commencer à utiliser le produit
et respectez-les en tout temps. 6. TENIR LES ENFANTS À DISTANCE. Tous
les visiteurs doivent être gardés à une distance
1. Apprendrelesdomainesd’utilisationetleslimitations sécuritaire de la zone de travail. RENDRE
de l’outil, de même que les dangers connexes. L’ATELIER À L’ÉPREUVE DES ENFANTS en
posant des cadenas et des interrupteurs principaux
2. Faire preuve de bon sens. Toute action qui semble ou en retirant les clés des démarreurs.
être dangereuse l’est probablement. NE PAS
TENDRE LE BRAS TROP LOIN. Toujours avoir 7. Porter des vêtements appropriés. Éviter de porter
une bonne prise de pied et un bon équilibre. des vêtements amples, des gants, une cravate, des
bagues ou des bracelets, car ils peuvent se prendre
3. Utiliser la bonne source d’alimentation. Ne jamais dans les pièces mobiles.
utiliser une source pour laquelle l’outil n’a pas été
conçu. On pourrait alors se blesser sérieusement. 8. Les cheveux longs doivent être attachés derrière la
L’outil est muni d’une fiche à trois broches; celle-ci tête et fixés en place.
doit être branchée dans une prise à trois trous. Tout
adaptateur doit être mis à la terre de façon appropriée 9. Ne pas travailler sous l’effet d’une drogue, de
(voir Consignes de mise à la terre, à la page 7). l’alcool ou d’un médicament. La consommation de
ces produits et le manque de sommeil entraînent une
4. RÉDUIRE LE RISQUE DE MISE EN MARCHE diminution du sens critique et de la coordination,
INVOLONTAIRE. S’assurer que l’interrupteur est et sont incompatibles avec l’utilisation d’un outil
à la position d’arrêt avant de brancher l’appareil. électrique.
UTILISER UNE RALLONGE APPROPRIÉE.
S’assurer que la rallonge est en bon état. Lorsqu’on 10. Utiliser le système dans un environnement
utilise une rallonge, s’assurer que le calibre des approprié. Les outils électriques ne doivent être
conducteurs permet d’acheminer le courant appelé utilisés que dans un environnement sec, propre et
par le produit. Une rallonge sous dimensionnée fera bien éclairé. L’exposition à la pluie ou l’utilisation
chuter la tension de secteur, ce qui entraînera une en présence d’un liquide ou d’un gaz inflammable
perte de puissance et fera surchauffer le système. risque de causer des dommages ou des blessures.
Le tableau 1 illustre le bon calibre à utiliser, selon Éviter de se servir d’un outil électrique dans un
la longueur de la rallonge et l’intensité nominale endroit humide ou de l’exposer à la pluie.
indiquée sur la plaque signalétique. En cas de
doute, utiliser une rallonge du calibre supérieur. 11. Garder le cordon d’alimentation loin de la chaleur,
de l’huile et des arêtes tranchantes.

Tableau 1 : Jauge nominale d’une rallonge.

Ampérage Volt Longueur totale de la rallonge (pieds)

120 V 25 50 100 150

Plus de Pas plus de AWG

0 6 18 16 16 14
6 10
10 12 18 16 14 12
12 16
16 16 14 12

14 12 non recommandé

5

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

12. Enlever les clés et les dispositifs de réglage avant 22. Lorsqu’il n’est pas utilisé, ranger le système
d’utiliser le système. Prendre l’habitude de vérifier d’affûtage dans un endroit sec, élevé et hors de
si les clés et les dispositifs de réglage ont été enlevés portée des enfants.
de l’outil avant de mettre celui ci en marche.
23. Ne pas tirer sur le cordon d’alimentation pour
13. Garder les mains loin des pièces mobiles jusqu’à ce le débrancher de la prise. Utiliser plutôt la fiche
que celles-ci se soient complètement immobilisées moulée pour débrancher le cordon.
et que le cordon d’alimentation ait été débranché.
24. Utiliser le système d’affûtage sur une surface plane
14. Garder le lieu de travail propre. Les zones de travail et stable.
encombrées sont souvent la cause d’accidents.
25. Ne pas utiliser le système dans un environnement
15. Ne pas utiliser un système d’affûtage endommagé. gazeux ou explosif, ou dans tout autre environnement
Un outil qui ne fonctionne pas correctement constitue qui contient des matières combustibles (de la
un risque d’accident et il faut le réparer avant de poussière de bois, par exemple) à l’état libre. Les
s’en servir. Il faut vérifier soigneusement toute pièce étincelles produites par l’affûtage risqueraient alors
endommagée et déterminer si elle fonctionnera de causer l’inflammation des vapeurs, de la poussière
correctement et remplira la fonction prévue – vérifier ou d’autres matériaux. En cas d’utilisation d’un
si les pièces mobiles sont bien alignées et si des aspirateur Shop-Vac® ou de tout autre aspirateur
pièces sont coincées ou brisées; vérifier le montage pour la collecte de la poussière d’abrasif, enlever
et toute autre condition susceptible d’avoir une les matières combustibles qu’il contient (poussière
incidence sur le fonctionnement du système. et copeaux de bois, par exemple) avant l’affûtage.

16. Toujours déconnecter l’outil de la source 26. Ne jamais essayer de faire une coupe en attaque
d’alimentation lorsqu’on pose un accessoire ou avec une meule à polir. Toujours utiliser une
qu’on règle la courroie d’entraînement ou toute coupe en fuite, de sorte que l’abrasif s’éloigne du
autre pièce. NE JAMAIS LAISSER L’OUTIL EN tranchant lorsque le disque tourne.
MARCHE SANS SURVEILLANCE. COUPER
L’ALIMENTATION. 27. Ne jamais régler le guide de l’outil pendant que le
système est en marche.
17. Se reporter à la section Soin et entretien du présent
guide d’utilisation pour trouver des détails au sujet 28. NE PAS TROP EXIGER DE L’OUTIL. Il fera
de la réparation ou de l’entretien courant. Utiliser un meilleur travail, de façon plus sécuritaire, s’il
uniquement des pièces de rechange identiques. fonctionne à la capacité pour laquelle il a été
conçu.
18. Ne pas modifier ou mal employer l’outil. Cesser
toute opération immédiatement lorsqu’on remarque 29. UTILISER LE BON OUTIL. Éviter de forcer
quelque chose d’anormal. l’outil ou le dispositif additionnel à faire un travail
pour lequel il n’a pas été conçu.
19. Manipuler les lames avec soin. Le produit permet
d’affûter des lames de manière à les rendre 30. UTILISER LES ACCESSOIRES
beaucoup plus aiguisées qu’il ne serait possible de RECOMMANDÉS. Consulter le manuel
le faire autrement. du propriétaire pour trouver les accessoires
recommandés. L’utilisation d’accessoires
20. Supporter la pièce à travailler avec le guide de inappropriés risque de causer des blessures.
l’outil et le système d’affûtage sur la surface de
travail. Ne jamais abaisser l’ensemble de guidage 31. L’affûtage dégage de la chaleur. Ne pas toucher à
de l’outil de manière à ce qu’il entre en contact la partie meulée de la pièce à travailler tant qu’on
avec un disque tournant. S’assurer que la pièce à n’est pas certain que cette dernière a refroidi.
travailler n’est pas en contact avec le disque rotatif
avant de mettre l’appareil sous tension. Attendre 32. Toujours faire attention à la position de la lame par
que le système d’affûtage ait atteint le plein régime rapport à toutes les parties du corps. Orienter l’outil
avant de poursuivre. par rapport à la direction de l’abrasif en mouvement
de manière à éviter que le tranchant pointe vers soi,
21. S’assurer que la lame n’entre pas en contact avec au cas où l’on perdrait la prise de l’outil. Essayer
la molette de retenue du plateau lorsqu’on met le de visualiser (ou de prévoir) l’endroit où la pièce à
système d’affûtage en marche. travailler serait projetée en cas de perte de maîtrise,
et s’écarter.
6

Introduction

Exigences un électricien qualifié. L’oreille ou l’œil de couleur
verte, ou tout dispositif semblable, qui dépasse de
L’utilisation du système d’affûtage électrique est régie l’adaptateur doit être raccordé à une mise à la terre
par les exigences fondamentales suivantes : permanente, telle qu’une boîte à prises mise à la
terre de façon appropriée.
• Alimentation – Le cordon doit être branché dans
une prise à 120 volts mise à la terre et reliée à un Couvercle de la prise
circuit de 15 ampères. mise à la terre

Consignes de mise à la terre Adaptateur
temporaire
1. Tous les outils avec cordon d’alimentation et
mise à la terre : (A) Vis à (B)
En cas de défaut de fonctionnement ou de panne, Fiche avec broche de masse métaux
la mise à la terre offre au courant électrique un
chemin de moindre résistance qui réduit le risque Figure 2 : Méthode de mise à la terre.
de choc électrique. Le présent outil est équipé
d’un cordon muni d’un conducteur de mise à la • Surface de travail – En raison de sa conception, on
terre du matériel et d’une fiche avec broche de doit placer le système sur une surface qui se trouve
masse. La fiche doit être branchée dans une prise à une distance de 30 à 36 po du sol de manière à
correspondante qui a été posée et mise à la terre en être bien à l’aise pendant qu’on l’utilise. On obtient
conformité avec toutes les ordonnances et tous les ainsi une hauteur de travail de 38 à 44 po. Il faut
codes locaux. Éviter de modifier la fiche fournie également que l’espace autour de la surface de
– si elle n’est pas adaptée à la prise, faire poser la travail soit bien dégagé pour qu’on puisse placer les
prise appropriée par un électricien qualifié. Quand outils et les accessoires à portée de la main.
le conducteur de mise à la terre du matériel est mal
connecté, il y a risque de choc électrique. Il s’agit • Lumière – Il est important de disposer d’un bon
du conducteur isolé dont le revêtement de couleur éclairage lorsqu’on évalue l’évolution de l’affûtage.
verte peut être muni de bandes jaunes. Si la fiche
ou le cordon doit être réparé ou remplacé, éviter
de raccorder le conducteur de mise à la terre du
matériel à une borne sous tension. Vérifier auprès
d’un électricien qualifié ou du personnel d’entretien
quand les consignes de mise à la terre ne sont pas
bien comprises ou en cas de doute quant à savoir si
l’outil est bien mis à la terre. Utiliser uniquement
une rallonge à trois conducteurs munis d’une fiche
à trois broches et une prise tripolaire dans laquelle
il est possible de brancher la fiche de l’outil.
Réparer ou remplacer immédiatement tout cordon
endommagé ou usé.

2. Outil avec cordon et mise à la terre, destiné à
être raccordé à un circuit d’alimentation dont la
tension nominale est inférieure à 150 volts :
Le présent outil est destiné à être utilisé sur un circuit
comportant une prise de courant qui ressemble à la
prise illustrée dans le croquis A de la figure 2.
L’outil est équipé d’une fiche bipolaire avec terre
qui ressemble à celle illustrée dans le croquis A de la
figure 2. Un adaptateur temporaire, qui ressemble à
celui illustré dans le croquis B, peut servir à brancher
la fiche dans une prise bipolaire de la façon illustrée
dans le croquis B, quand il n’y a aucune prise mise à
la terre de façon appropriée. L’adaptateur temporaire
ne doit être utilisé que jusqu’à ce qu’une prise mise
à la terre de façon appropriée puisse être posée par

7

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System
8

Unpacking & Assembly

Chapter 2

Unpacking & Assembly

• Remove the main unit from the box. • Install the turntable using the two 1/4-20 × 1/2"
button-head cap screws. Ensure that the mating
• Refer to Appendix A: Exploded Assemblies & Master surfaces are clean before mounting the turntable
Parts List to check that you have all the components. (Figure 5).

• Remove all packing materials. 1/4-20 × 1/2" Button-Head
Cap Screws
• Set the V-belt. Loosen the three motor mount
screws using the 4mm hex key. Pull the motor Turntable
pulley as shown in Figure 3 to tension the belt.
Tighten the motor mount screws. The V-belt
doesn’t need to be any tighter than you can
comfortably set by hand.

V-Belt

Motor Mount Figure 5: Installing the turntable.
Screw
• A clean environment is essential when applying
Motor Pulley the abrasive. Wipe the platter first with a clean
rag dampened with methyl hydrate, methanol,
Motor Mount methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol. (Mineral
Screw spirits is not recommended as it can leave a slightly
oily residue.)
Figure 3: Tensioning the V-belt.
• Take note that the two platters are different
• Check that the pulleys are aligned horizontally. thicknesses. One is 3mm thick and the other is
Place a straight edge across the top surfaces of the 4mm thick. Apply the 80x and 100µ (micron) on
turntable and motor pulleys (see Figure 4). If they opposite sides of the 4mm platter, 40µ and 9µ on
are not aligned, loosen the set screw in the motor the 3mm platter. Peel the backing off the abrasive
pulley and align them. disc. Handling it by the edges, align the center
holes and carefully press down from the center
Turntable Pulley Straight Edge outward. A rolling pin or sufficiently large dowel
helps. If any bubbles remain after rolling, pierce
Motor Pulley them with a sharp point and press them down to
remove the air.

Motor Pulley Set
Screw Location

Cross section
showing motor
pulley set screw.

Figure 4: Checking pulley alignment.

9

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

• Using the 1/8" ball-end hex key provided, loosely • Tighten the locking screw.
install the tool guide rod onto the tool guide yoke
with the two 10-24 × 1/2" button-head cap screws • The tool guide rod must be aligned parallel to the
(Figure 6). turntable. Put the thicker of the two platters in place
on the turntable; secure it with the platter retention
10-24 × 1/2" Button-Head thumbscrew. To allow the tool guide assembly to
Cap Screws be adjusted, loosen the locking screw and push the
tool guide assembly all the way down so that the
Tool Guide Rod tool guide yoke comes to rest on the base and only
the 15° mark is visible on the tool guide scale. With
one hand, keep the tool guide rod in contact with
the abrasive disc while tightening the screws. With
your hand off the tool guide rod, check by eye that
it remains absolutely parallel to the platter. If not,
repeat this alignment procedure.

Tool Guide Yoke

Figure 6: Tool guide assembly.

• Insert the tool guide assembly into the tool guide
bore in the chassis (Figure 7).

Tool Guide
Assembly

Tool Guide
Bore

Locking Screw

Figure 7: Installation of the tool guide assembly.

10

General Principles – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes

Chapter 3

General Principles – Straight-Edged Tools:
Chisels and Planes

Any tool with a flat straight-edged cutting blade up to 21/2"
wide and 1/2" thick can be sharpened to any bevel angle
between 15° and 45° on the sharpening system’s turntable.
Refer to Appendix C: General Sharpening Procedures
(excerpted from The Complete Guide To Sharpening by
Leonard Lee, available from The Taunton Press) for an
explanation of sharpening principles. If you prefer to jump
right in and learn as you go, reading Quick Start should
enable you to do so. Otherwise, for a full explanation of
how the system works, proceed to Tool Registration.

Quick Start

• Set up the tool to be sharpened as shown in Figure 8. Figure 9: Tool position.
Extend the cutting edge of the tool using the registration
jig as shown to ensure it projects the correct amount Note: Make sure the blade does not contact
from the tool holder. the platter retention thumbscrew while the
sharpening system is turned on.
Tool Holder
• Turn power off, switch to the thinner (3mm) platter
Registration Jig with the 9µ abrasive facing up and repeat the previous
step. It should take only about 1 to 3 seconds of
Figure 8: Setting tool projection. grinding to achieve a satisfactory micro-bevel.

• Set the tool guide to the desired bevel angle, • Remove the wire edge formed when grinding by
anywhere from 15° to 45°. The included Veritas® applying the back of the blade flat against the 9µ
Bevel Gauge (shown in Figure 1) will help you abrasive while the turntable is rotating. Position the
to determine the initial bevel angle of any of your blade to make a leading cut as shown in Figure 10. If
tools, from 15° to 45° in 5° increments. you feel uncomfortable doing this, turn the power off
and do so as if using a stone.
• Place the thicker (4mm) platter on the turntable with
either the 80x or 100µ face up, secure it with the
platter retention thumbscrew, and turn the power on.

• Engage the tool holder with the tool guide rod and
apply the bevel edge of the blade to the turntable at
the right of the center. Position the tool as shown
in Figure 9 while moving the blade back and forth
and applying a consistent pressure downward on
the turntable. Check results often, stopping once
the primary bevel is established.

Figure 10: Wire edge removal.

11

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Tool Registration Abrasives

The system relies on the tool holder to be used The types and grades of abrasives used with the system
with the tool registration jig and the tool guide to have been carefully selected for fast material removal
grind and hone accurate, repeatable bevel angles. and cool grinding temperatures. As with all sharpening
As illustrated in Figure 8, the blade should always methods, the sharpening system uses a range of
project the same distance from the holder, with abrasives from very coarse to very fine. Each grade is
the exception of especially short tools (see Short suitable for a specific stage of the sharpening process.
Projection). Different bevel angles are achieved Four different grades are included with each system for
solely by varying the height of the tool guide. The use on the turntable. They are as follows:
tool guide post has a series of indents that engage a
ball plunger installed in the base. This creates seven • 80x (180µ) zirconia – applied to one side of the
pre-determined settings for the tool guide height as thick (4mm) platter, and used for basic shaping of
shown on the tool guide scale (from 15° to 45° in the bevel and grinding out edge damage.
5° increments). As the post is moved up and down,
it will register at each 5° setting with a small click. • 100µ (150x) aluminum oxide (1µ = 1 micron
The corresponding bevel angle is read according to = 1/1,000,000 metre) – applied to other side of the
the lowest number that can be read from the scale thick (4mm) platter. The micron grade refers to
as shown in Figure 11. The guide may be set to the average particle size. This abrasive is the
any height between the two extremes; however, if first to be used if the blade was last sharpened on
the angle required is not one of the presets, you will the system at the same angle and no large nicks
need to mark the position with a fine-tip marker on or chips are to be removed from the edge. This
the label, or with a scratch or other mark on the post abrasive must also be used if a blade was started
itself, for the setting to be repeatable. If unusual with the 80x platter because, as with all abrasive
bevel angles are required more often than the seven action, when progressing from coarse to fine, one
presets, you can back off the ball plunger to eliminate should not make too large a jump from one grade
the standard presets by first removing the locking to the next.
screw (to access the ball plunger).
• 40µ (320x) aluminum oxide – applied to one side
Locking Screw Read angle here. of the thin (3mm) platter. This grade is used only
for lapping the face of a chisel or plane blade.
Figure 11: Setting the bevel angle. In normal sharpening (i.e., when working on the
bevel), this abrasive is not used.

• 9µ (1200x) aluminum oxide – applied to the
other side of the thin (3mm) platter. This abrasive
is used to create the micro-bevel with the final
cutting edge.

Micro-Bevels

As explained in Appendix C: General Sharpening
Procedures, concentrating one’s honing efforts on a
micro-bevel will save a great deal of time and abrasive.
When using this system, a very slight change of angle is
automatically created when the user switches from the
coarse abrasive discs mounted on the thick platter to the
fine abrasive discs mounted on the thin platter. The user
needs to do nothing more than switch to the platter with
the fine abrasive to achieve a micro-bevel of about 1°.

12

General Principles – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes

Tool Holding As noted on the Blade Projection Jig Label, when using
short projection do not set the tool guide to 40° or 45°.
Standard Projection Using such a combination of settings will create a bevel
angle of 52° or 59° which, aside from being unusable
Use of the tool holder at the standard projection is covered cutting angles for woodworking, may cause the tool to
in Chapter 4, Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel. jam between the turntable and tool guide when taking
a leading cut. If for some reason such an obtuse angle
Short Projection is necessary, it may be accomplished by using a trailing
cut as shown in Figure 21.
Some tools such as short butt chisels, spokeshaves and
small palm planes have blades that are too short to Skew Chisels
register properly at standard projection. Blades as short
as 11/2" may still be sharpened using the short setting The tool holder is equipped with two registration
of the blade projection jig. As shown in Figure 12 and screws that are normally stored out of the way in tapped
on the label of the blade projection jig, when the short holes on the top of the holder. These are for use with
projection is used, the angle as displayed on the tool skew chisels. When used as shown in Figure 13, they
guide is no longer correct. The conversion can be made will allow the user to hone a 60° point (30° skew) on
using the table pictured on the jig label. a 1/2" wide chisel. If sharpening a 3/4" wide, 30° skew
chisel, set up as shown in Figure 14. Use one screw if
sharpening a 1" wide skew as shown in Figure 15.

Contact

! ! = DO NOT USE
! (SEE MANUAL)

Figure 12: Blade projection jig label. Figure 13: 1/2" skew chisel.

When working on wide, short tools, such as butt chisels Contact
or spokeshave blades, it is often easier to ensure square
registration using the existing edge against the registration Figure 14: 3/4" skew chisel.
jig rather than the side of the blade and the shoulder of the
tool holder. If the dull edge is out of square, the human Contact
eye (aided with a small square) can usually correct to
obtain the set-up as square as it needs to be.

Be aware that it is not possible to use the 15° setting
on the tool guide when sharpening a chisel at the short
projection. To attempt this would cause the underside
of the tool holder to come into contact with the abrasive
platter. This is due to the thickness of the blade to
be sharpened and applies to chisels only. It is not a
restriction, as short chisels (butt or Japanese) cannot
normally withstand such a low bevel angle. Small
plane blades such as for spokeshaves and palm planes
are much thinner and may be sharpened at 15° with no
interference.

Figure 15: 1" skew chisel.

13

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System
14

Operation – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes

Chapter 4

Operation – Straight-Edged Tools:
Chisels and Planes

For an abbreviated explanation of how to use the c) Start with the thinner (3mm) platter on the turntable,
system, see Quick Start in Chapter 3. Otherwise, the with the 40µ abrasive facing up. Be sure to
procedures outlined below illustrate how to use the secure the platter firmly with the platter retention
system, depending on the condition of the blade. thumbscrew. At all times, the power must be off to
remove or secure a platter.
As you may remember from school geometry, a straight
line is formed from the intersection of two planes. So d) With the power on, lap the non-bevelled face of the
it is with creating a sharp blade. In all cases, both the blade as shown in Figure 16. Be sure to apply the
bevel and the face of the blade must be flat and polished blade to the moving turntable in the manner shown;
to the same degree in order to create the sharpest edge face first, cutting edge last. Do not lift up the portion
possible. The methods outlined here will enable you to of the blade extending beyond the turntable. The
quickly achieve an edge beyond razor sharp. purpose is to smooth and polish the face of the blade,
not to create a bevel. Take care not to overheat the
Included with your sharpening system is the Veritas® blade or loss of blade hardness may result. With a
Bevel Gauge. This may be used to check the bevel angle large area in contact with the abrasive, the blade can
of any of your tools, from 15° to 45° in 5° increments. suddenly become too hot to hold.

How to Sharpen a New Tool e) Lift the blade from the turntable every 4 to 5 seconds
to check your results; cutting edge first, face last
This procedure applies to tools right out of the package (opposite to the motion when applying the blade to
or those that have never been sharpened on the system. the turntable). Stop when the abrasive has created a
smooth, consistently abraded area extending back
Step 1: Lapping at least 1/4"* behind the edge, completely removing
the original manufacturer’s grinding marks that go
a) Remove all lacquer or other applied coating from right out to the cutting edge in a pattern, as shown
the blade, especially the face. See Removing the in Figure 17. If the abrasion is not quite to the edge
Lacquer in Appendix C. but appears to be close, continue lapping. If the face
appears to be uneven and progress seems to be unduly
b) Turn the sharpening system so that you can easily slow, restart with 100µ abrasive, and revert back to
work on the platter with the tool guide out of the 40µ abrasive only when a consistent scratch pattern
way (see Figure 16). appears, extending back at least 1/4" behind the edge.

Polished Area Grinding Marks

Cutting
Edge

1/4"

Figure 17: Tool after lapping.

First step Second step *This may be reduced to as little as 1/16" without any
in lapping. in lapping. ill effect, except that you will reach the unlapped
surface sooner from repeated sharpening, necessitating
Figure 16: Lapping. Note: Change the angle at which the relapping of the face at more frequent intervals.
blade is held when lapping with different abrasives.

15

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

f) When the face of the blade has been fully lapped Contact
with the 40µ abrasive, switch to 9µ. Continue
lapping until the scratch pattern created by the Platter Retention
previous step has been removed. When lapping Thumbscrew
is complete, the face of the blade adjacent to the
cutting edge should be flat and polished enough Set to 40°
to allow you to clearly see your own reflection1.
It helps to rotate the tool’s position about a vertical Figure 18: Alternative blade projection method.
axis relative to the turntable between steps of the
lapping process. For example, when lapping with d) If the existing bevel of the tool is to be changed
100µ, hold the blade so it points toward the platter (most chisels and planes are sold with a 25° primary
retention thumbscrew in the center of the turntable. bevel), use the 80x abrasive to start. If the bevel angle
For the next step, 40µ, hold the blade so it is at least is not to be changed, start with the 100µ abrasive.
45° from the previous position (see Figure 16).
Using this method, the scratches formed by each e) With the power on, engage the tool holder on the
step will always be at an angle to those created guide rod and lower the blade down into contact
during the previous step, making it very easy to tell with the turntable as shown in Figure 19. This
when they have all been removed. should be done on the right side of the turntable
to make a leading cut. If the blade is abraded on
Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel the left side of the turntable, the resultant trailing
cut will quickly create a large wire edge as well as
a) Select a bevel angle and set the tool guide by increase the danger of overheating the edge.
raising or lowering it so the desired angle is the
lowest visible number on the tool guide scale;
it should click into position. The enclosed brass
bevel gauge will help you determine the initial
bevel angle of your tool.

b) Clamp the tool into the tool holder as shown in
Figure 8. Make sure the side of the tool is firmly
up against one of the shoulders of the tool holder.
If the blade is wide and short and is awkward to
set up as shown, see Chapter 3, Short Projection.
Tighten the tool holder nuts progressively so that
the tool holder is not bent.

c) The projection of the blade may also be registered Figure 19: Creating the primary bevel.
without the use of the projection jig. With the
tool guide assembly set to 40°*, the tool holder f) Position the tool as shown in Figure 19 while
engaged on the guide rod and the tool loosely moving the blade back and forth and applying a
clamped in place, extend the blade edge until it consistent pressure downward on the turntable. As
touches the platter retention thumbscrew as shown with lapping, the blade can become too hot to hold,
in Figure 18. risking loss of blade hardness. If it does, remove it
from the turntable and allow it to cool. A temperature
*This angle is only for setting purposes; all bevel that is uncomfortable to touch is much lower than
angles shown on the tool guide scale on the tool the temperature at which the hardness of the blade
post are achievable once blade projection is set can be affected (see Excessive Heat Build-Up in
by either method. Troubleshooting for more information). As a general
rule, when traversing the blade side to side during
grinding, stay at least 1/4" inside of the edge of the
platter. This prevents the bevel from becoming
irregular should there be any damage on the edge of
the platter or if the abrasive is peeling.

1Additional abrasive grades are available (60µ and 20µ) to reduce the jump in particle size and make lapping more effecient (see Appendix B).

16

Operation – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes

Note: Make sure the blade does not contact Step 3: Create the Micro-Bevel
the platter retention thumbscrew while the
sharpening system is turned on. a) With the thinner (3mm) platter on the turntable and
the 9µ abrasive facing up, repeat Step 2: e through
g) Check results every 2 to 4 seconds, stopping when g above, until a micro-bevel has been established
a bevel extending back from the edge at least 1/8" extending 1/32" back from the edge. This should
has been created. It is sometimes difficult to tell take only 1 to 3 seconds.
whether any dull or slightly nicked areas remain. To
ensure that the bevel extends to the edge all the way b) With the tool still clamped in the holder, remove the
across, inspect the face of the blade; if a consistent wire edge formed by applying the face of the blade
wire edge has formed all the way from one side of flat against the rotating 9µ abrasive. Position the
the tool to the other, then the bevel and the face have blade to make a leading cut as shown in Figure 10.
properly intersected one another. If you are not comfortable doing this, turn the power
off and do it as if using a stone.
h) If 80x was the initial abrasive, remove the platter
and resecure it with the 100µ abrasive facing up. c) Repeat the previous two steps 2 to 3 times, holding the
Repeat steps e to g. blade to the abrasive for 1 to 2 seconds each time.

Note: There is no functional reason to continue abrasion on How to Resharpen a Tool
the bevel of a blade once the edge is formed at any one stage.
So when changing a blade from an acute bevel such as 20° If the blade has previously been sharpened on the system
to a steeper one such as 30°, much of the bevel will remain and the face still has a highly polished lapped surface
at 20° after the cutting angle of the edge has been effectively extending back at least 1/16" behind the edge, start at Step 2:
changed to 30°. In this case, it would be counter-productive Create the Primary Bevel. If not, start at Step 1: Lapping.
to continue grinding until the new bevel is formed all the
way back to the heel. For the same reason, always grind the How to Sharpen a
smallest possible micro-bevel on a blade. Using the same Damaged Tool
principle, you can quickly relieve a significant portion of
the heel of the blade as shown in Figure 20, using a coarse There are different meanings to "damaged", but here we
abrasive on the turntable. This will reduce the size of the are talking about two different types of damage: tools
primary bevel without any deleterious effects, speeding up with serious edge damage, which can be large chips
primary bevel regrindings. in the edge, or loss of hardness (evidenced by heat
discoloration) or badly rusted blades.
Heel
Edge Damage: Assuming the face of the blade requires
Relief Bevel no extra lapping, grind the edge back beyond the damage
to, in effect, move the cutting edge beyond the damaged
Primary 30° area of the face. To do so, it’s best to grind free hand
Bevel 20° on a sander or grinder, approximately perpendicular to
the face of the blade until the edge is in a clear portion
Cutting Edge Face of the face, thus creating a flat where the cutting edge
normally is. Proceed as described in How To Sharpen
Figure 20: Primary bevel relief. a New Tool, Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel, starting
with 80x abrasive.

Rusty Tools: Follow the same procedure as for a new
tool, but pay close attention to the lapping step. All
traces of deep rust or pitting must be removed from
the face of the blade near the cutting edge. If any rust
damage coincides with the cutting edge, there will be a
nick at that point. If extra lapping does not remove all
pitting near or on the edge, the blade should be treated
as described in the previous paragraph.

17

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Buffing/Honing Note: Honing must be done on the left side of the
turntable so that it creates a trailing cut – i.e., it must be
Although the edge produced by the 9µ abrasive is a stropping action where the honing medium is moving
extremely sharp and should meet the needs of all away from the edge. If a leading cut is attempted, the
woodworking tasks, it is possible to take the sharpening edge of the blade can catch in the honing disc and
process a bit further. To make a honing disc for use on force the tool backwards, possibly causing injury to the
the system, extra platters are available. (See Appendix user. Again with a trailing cut, remove the wire edge by
B: Optional & Accessory Parts.) Simply use spray applying the face of the blade flat against the rotating
adhesive to adhere some thin, tightly woven cotton fabric honing disc.
to a 3mm platter. (The material from a old dress shirt
is ideal for this.) With the power on, charge the honing Note: Make sure the blade does not contact
disc with green (chromium oxide) honing compound. the platter retention thumbscrew while the
sharpening system is turned on.
Note: The platter retention thumbscrew is not self-
tightening and may unthread itself under load. This is Convex Cutting Edge
a safety feature that helps to prevent injury or damage
to the sharpening system if for any reason a blade digs Used properly, the system will create a straight cutting
into a platter while sharpening. To prevent the honing edge square to the side of the blade. This is the most
platter (or any platter that has no abrasive on the desirable result for chisels and most planing situations.
underside) from coming loose under a normal working However, depending on user preference and the task at
load, apply a thin coat of rubber-based spray adhesive hand, sometimes a very slightly convex edge is ideal
to the underside of the platter. Let it dry for a few (e.g., to avoid corner digs when smooth planing). This
minutes before use. can be easily achieved when honing with 9µ abrasive.
Instead of applying pressure straight down in the middle
To Use: of the blade, press alternately on the two front corners.

• Keep the tool clamped in place in the holder when
finished with the 9µ abrasive.

• Secure the platter with the honing disc (fabric
side up) to the turntable in place of the other 3mm
platter (with the 40µ and 9µ abrasives).

• With the power on, apply the blade to the rotating
honing disc in the same manner as for regular
abrasives, but on the left side of the turntable to
make a trailing cut (Figure 21).

Figure 21: Tool position for honing disc.

18

Freehand Sharpening – Carving Tools and Other Tools

Chapter 5

Freehand Sharpening – Carving Tools and
Other Tools

Sharpening these tools is not as simple as sharpening Gouges and Parting Tools
straight blades. A certain level of technique must be
mastered in order to achieve properly sharpened blades. Gouges and parting tools (V-tools) can be sharpened
Novices are advised to practice and to proceed very in a highly controlled manner using the tool guide rod
carefully, even with fine abrasives, as the sharpening as a tool rest. With the motor off, adjust the tool guide
system can quickly remove too much material. assembly to its approximate position, then adjust the
tool extension past the guide rod until the desired bevel
Buffing Wheel – Horizontal angle is achieved. Wrap a bit of tape around the blade
to indicate the amount of extension past the guide rod.
The sharpening system is supplied with a bushing, washer Hold the tool such that your fingers act as a stop and
and screw to secure a felt wheel to the turntable (with the proceed to sharpen the blade.
abrasive disc removed to prevent contamination to the
buffing wheel), allowing its face to be used horizontally. Use finger as a stop Tape to Indicate
Install as shown in Figure 22.2 The turntable turns at against guide rod. Tool Extension
650 rpm so the buffing action will be less aggressive
but more easily controlled than when mounted onto a
typical bench grinder. You may wish to raise the wheel
as shown in Figure 22, so that there is better access to its
edge. A shop-made 3" to 4" diameter disc, from 1" to 2"
thick with a 1/4" concentric hole is ideal. A longer 1/4-20
bolt will be needed, but be sure to have 1/4" to 3/8" thread
engagement in the platter retention thumbscrew hole.

Screw

Washer

Bushing Figure 23: Sharpening a gouge.
Regular or Shaped
Buffing Wheel Use fine abrasives for controlled material removal
and to ensure the proper shape to the edges of these
Optional Spacer tools. Abrasion rates can also be adjusted by sliding
the blade along the tool guide rod. Working near the
Figure 22: Horizontal buffing wheel installation. edge of the turntable results in fast material removal,
while working near the center provides much slower
material removal.

When sharpening V-tools, it is particularly important to
take a careful, measured approach to avoid removing
too much material.

When sharpening gouges, roll the gouge continually, as
stopping at any point will quickly result in a flat spot
on the curve.

2 If using a wheel less than 1" thick, it will be necessary to make a spacer with stiff, sheet material (plywood) to install between the wheel and the
platter to make up the difference in thickness. Make it roughly circular with a 1/4" concentric hole. It can be any diameter between 2" and 8", but
if it is larger than the wheel, be sure to carefully smooth the outer edge.

19

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Other Tools

The combination of a range of abrasives and controlled
sharpening rates, combined with a simple system
for setting bevel angles, will allow a wide range of
items to be sharpened such as axe heads, fan-tailed
cold chisels, and turning tools. Items such as belt or
center punches can be sharpened by chucking them in
a hand drill (set to low speed) to provide rotation in
the process.
Removing the tool guide assembly will allow access for
freehand grinding of larger tools.

Note: When freehand sharpening any tool,
orient the blade in relation to the direction of
the moving wheel so that its edge will not point
toward you, should you ever lose your grip on it.
Try to visualize (or predict) where the workpiece
will go if control is lost, and keep out of the way.
Avoid situations where the tool could jam or
move in an unpredictable direction.

20

Care and Maintenance

Chapter 6

Care and Maintenance

Lubrication Use: Always bear in mind that the lifetime of any sheet
abrasive is limited to the thickness of the abrasive
Tool Guide Rod, Tool Holder & Tool Guide Post: mineral applied to the substrate. Abrasive action always
Do not use any kind of oil or grease on the mating wears away both the workpiece and the abrasive itself.
surfaces of either the tool guide rod or tool holder. They To sharpen the most tools with a set of abrasive discs,
are exposed to a dusty, abrasive environment where oil avoid any unnecessary abrasion. Although the turntable
would only serve to collect metal and abrasive particles. is well suited for general shop use as a disc sander,
Wax or powdered graphite may be used if desired, but using the system solely for tool sharpening will help
should not be necessary. prolong abrasive life, as will using the techniques
already mentioned above.
Abrasives
Cleaning:A crepe rubber block is useful for periodically
Replacement: All the abrasives will eventually need to cleaning the coarse abrasives used with the sharpening
be replaced. The old abrasive discs will come off, leaving system. However, using a crepe block on any grade finer
some adhesive residue. Any adhesive left behind should than 60µ (220x) will clog the abrasive. For finer grades,
be removed with mineral spirits or a citrus-based solvent. use a clean rag dampened with a citrus-based cleaner
Avoid harsh solvents such as acetone, toluene or xylene. or an alcohol-based solvent, such as methyl hydrate or
Avoid vigorous scraping as this may damage the surface. isopropyl alcohol. With the power on, apply the rag to
Wipe the platter with a clean rag dampened with methyl the moving abrasive with a rolling motion. If you are
hydrate, methanol, methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol old enough to have cleaned a vinyl LP record, it is the
to remove any oily residue from the mineral spirits or same basic technique.
citrus-based solvents. Re-apply the abrasive discs using
the same technique as for initial installation. Spare Parts

Storage: While using the sharpening system, there will The more frequently required spare parts are listed in
always be one or more platters not on the turntable, Appendix B: Optional & Accessory Parts.
but close at hand, ready for the next tool or stage of
sharpening. These idle platters (especially the one V-Belt
with the fine abrasive grades) should be kept where
steel and abrasive particles will not collect on them. The drive belt is a tough, polyurethane V-belt that should
Anywhere above the level of the turntable or to the last the lifetime of the product; however, misalignment
right will suffice. Store unused abrasive discs flat in may considerably reduce its life.
a plastic bag, ideally between a couple of boards or
other similar arrangement. They should be stored at To replace the belt:
a temperature below 80°F (27°C), and not exposed to
sunlight. The PSA backing on abrasives has a shelf life a) Remove the turntable.
of about 2 years. To be on the safe side, only keep stock b) Loosen the three motor mount screws just enough
on hand that will be installed within a year of purchase.
After installation, the working lifetime of the adhesive to allow the motor to move.
is lengthened considerably, but cannot be accurately c) Slide the motor over to loosen the belt.
predicted due to many variables involved (principally, d) Remove and replace the belt.
temperature and humidity). e) Retension the belt as noted in Chapter 2.
f) Ensure the pulleys are aligned.

If the sharpening system is to be left unused for extended
periods of time, the belt tension should be relieved.

21

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Sound and Vibration Damping

The rubber extrusion applied to the bottom edge of
the base significantly reduces sound and vibration. It
also provides a non-skid function for the unit. To avoid
damaging the extrusion, be sure to lift the base when
moving it.

22

Troubleshooting

Chapter 7

Troubleshooting

Sharpening on the Platter b) Platter Damage: The platters supplied are made to
a very exacting flatness tolerance. However, if, for
Micro-Bevel and Primary Bevel Not Parallel some reason, a platter is warped, dented or has a
mushroomed edge from being dropped edge first on a
This is not necessarily a problem, so long as the end hard floor, the abrasive applied to that platter will adopt
result is a sharp edge, approximately square to the side. the same distorted form. At every stage of sharpening,
However, it may be symptomatic of a set-up problem or the abrasive must be rotating in a plane parallel to all
damage to one or more of the platters: other stages. If this is not the case, the bevels created
by successive abrasive steps will not coincide. This is
a) Set-Up: If the tool shifts during the process, the less of a problem if the 3mm platter with fine abrasive
orientation of the blade to the turntable will not be applied is not damaged as the final micro-bevel will
identical at all stages of sharpening. This can happen make the cutting edge perpendicular to the side of
if the tool holder bar is touching only one corner of the blade. Replacement platters are available; see
the blade. The set-up, as shown in Figure 24, will Appendix B: Optional & Accessory Parts.
cause the tool to pivot. To prevent movement, secure
the tool as shown in Figure 25. The key is to tighten Micro-Bevel on the Heel Instead of the Edge
the nut closest to the tool first until the bar is forced
slightly out of parallel with the tool holder. Then If this happens, the abrasives are applied to the wrong
tighten the other nut until the bar is slightly bent into a platters. The two coarse grades, 80x grit and 100µ, must
very shallow arc that touches the tool on both corners be on the thick (4mm) platter, and the two fine abrasives,
as shown. Overtightening the bar will cause another 40µ and 9µ, must be on the thin (3mm) platter.
problem (see Edge Not Square Across Tool, point e).
Excessive Heat Build-Up
Tool Holder Bar Pivot Point
Since the sharpening system uses a dry grinding action,
Chisel it is possible to overheat a blade and reduce its hardness,
thereby eliminating its ability to hold a sharp edge. The
Figure 24: Incorrect tool holder set-up. instructions explain how to avoid overheating the blade
by holding it a certain way. This technique, in effect,
Tool Holder Bar Contact at uses your fingers as sensors. However, understanding
both corners. how heat is created will help avoid burnt fingertips.

Chisel Heat generation is governed by six factors:

Figure 25: Correct tool holder set-up. a) type of abrasive
b) speed of abrasive media
c) type of material being abraded
d) condition of abrasive
e) feed pressure
f) grade of abrasive

23

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Of these factors, the first three are effectively fixed Edge Not Square Across Tool
and the latter three are variable. The relationship is
clear between each of the variable factors and heat There are several possible causes for this:
generation. More feed pressure means more heat. Fresh
abrasive generates less heat than used abrasive. Coarse a) Improper registration: The tool is not properly seated
abrasive creates more heat than fine abrasive due to against the registration shoulder in the tool holder.
higher metal-removal rates. There is little one can do Sometimes a small bit of dirt, glue or a tiny burr is
about grade of abrasive since various grades must be the culprit, or, as explained above in Micro-Bevel and
used in sequence to get a sharp edge. While replacing Primary Bevel Not Parallel, the tool has shifted.
worn abrasive with fresh abrasive will help reduce
heat build-up, it must be balanced with the expense of b) Tapered tool: The sides of the tool may not be
doing so. Feed pressure is the one variable factor of parallel. In this case, the edge will be square to the side
heat generation that is easily controlled. registered in the tool holder but not to the other side.

To get a good sense of how much pressure to apply to c) Twisted blade: This is more common than one may
achieve maximum material removal without overheating think. Plane blades are especially prone to slight
the blade, dip the tip of the blade into water before deformation due to the production methods used to
grinding. With a few drops of water on the face of the make them. Old chisels that have seen rugged use
blade near the edge, apply the blade to the rotating can also be twisted as can narrow chisels of any age,
abrasive. Try different amounts of pressure and observe since it is easy to introduce twist while lapping any
the droplets of water. When the water boils, too much tool less than 3/8" across. To test for twist, hold the
pressure has been applied*. Ideally, one should maintain face of the blade against a piece of plate glass or a
pressure to keep the temperature of the blade just below 4mm platter (without abrasive applied), applying
the boiling point of water. Try with different tools and hand pressure at approximately the same point that
feed pressures on the various grades of abrasive to get a the tool holder bar would contact the blade. Try to slip
good feel for optimal feed pressure. Keep in mind two the edge of a piece of 0.003" or 0.004" shim stock or
important points: plain bond paper under one of the corners. If the shim
goes underneath one corner and not the other, the
a) Do not confuse this technique with quenching. blade has sufficient twist to affect squareness of the
If the water boils off, wait until the blade is cool edge. The two are directly related. The more twist,
enough to touch before dipping into water again. the more out of square the edge will be. This is not
really a problem unless the blade in question is from
b) It is always better to apply less pressure than more. a plane with little or no skew adjustment. In that case,
The time saved by grinding a bit faster can easily the blade will have to be skewed in the tool holder by
be wiped out by overheating the blade and having trial and error to get a square edge.
to grind it shorter to get past the damage.
d) Platter damage: As outlined in Micro-Bevel and
*This is not to suggest that hardness is lost once Primary Bevel Not Parallel, a damaged platter may
100°C or 212°F is reached. The rationale here is that cause undesirable results. If both platters are damaged,
water boiling on the face of the blade near the edge it may be impossible to get a square edge.
is indicative that the very edge is significantly hotter.
Further increase in temperature may not allow the area e) Tool holder nuts too tight: As explained in
behind the edge to act as an adequate heat sink to draw Micro-Bevel and Primary Bevel Not Parallel, when
the heat from the edge, possibly leading to high enough the tool holder nuts are properly tightened, the bar
temperatures that could lead to loss of hardness. bends slightly to form a very shallow arc. If they
are overtightened, the tool holder itself will also
bend into a shallow arc. Since, in this case, it is held
against one side of an arched surface, the tool will
be held at a compound angle to the turntable, thus
creating an edge not square to the side of the blade.
Don’t bother with a straight edge to decide whether
something is bent or not in this context. If the tool
holder looks curved to the eye, that is enough to
affect the squareness of the edge.

f) Improper guide rod registration: If all else fails,
re-register the guide rod as explained in Chapter 2,
Unpacking & Assembly.

24

Troubleshooting

Incomplete Micro-Bevel

This is most likely caused by a combination of two factors:

a) the edge of the thick platter has been mushroomed
either from being dropped edge first on a hard floor
or the PSA backing on the abrasive disc is peeling
on the edge; and

b) while grinding the primary bevel, the blade was
traversed partly over the outer edge of the abrasive
disc. (See Chapter 4, How to Sharpen a New Tool,
Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel.) To fix the problem,
it is necessary to start again with 100µ abrasive.

Motor Troubleshooting

Drive Train

If the V-belt jumps off the motor pulley, it is probably
due to the misalignment of the motor pulley and
turntable pulley. Check that the pulleys are aligned.
Place a straight edge across the top surfaces of the two
pulleys (see Figure 4). If they are not aligned, loosen
the set screw in the motor pulley and align them.

V-Belt Tension Adjustment

Loosen the three motor mount screws. Pull the motor
pulley as shown in Figure 3 to tension the belt. Tighten
the motor mount screws. The V-belt doesn’t need to be
any tighter than you can comfortably set by hand.

25

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Appendix A

Exploded Assemblies & Master Parts List

Part # Description Qty.

1 Chassis & Housing 1
1
2 Turntable 1
1
3 Tool Guide Rod 1
1
4 Tool Guide Yoke 1
1
5 Tool Holder Assembly* 1
1
6 1/4 hp Motor 1
1
7 4mm Platter* 1
1
8 3mm Platter (not shown)* 1
1
9 100µ Abrasive Disc* 1
1
10 40µ Abrasive Disc (not shown)* 1
1
11 9µ Abrasive Disc (not shown)* 3
1
12 80x Abrasive Disc (not shown)* 2
1
13 Platter Retention Thumbscrew

14 Motor Pulley

15 V-Belt*

16 Ball Plunger

17 Locking Screw

18 Registration Jig

19 Bevel Gauge*

20 Power Cord with On/Off Switch

21 Motor Mount Screw

22 Rubber Extrusion

23 1/4-20 × 1/2" Button-Head Cap Screw

24 1/4-20 × 3/8" Set Screw

* See Appendix B: Optional & Accessory Parts for order information.

26

4 Exploded Assemblies & Master Parts List
23
15 5
3
16
17 13
9
18 7
2
19
24
14

21

1

6
20

22

27

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System 1

Parts #3 & #4
Tool Guide Assembly

6

Part # Description Qty. 2 5
3 4
1 Tool Guide Rod 1
2 Tool Guide Yoke 1 1
3 Tool Guide Post 1 6
4 Guide Post Label 1
5 1/4-20 Set Screw 1 2
6 10-24 × 1/2" Button-Head Cap Screw 2 3

Part #5 4
Tool Holder Assembly 5

Part # Description Qty.

1 Tool Holder 1
2 Tool Holder Bar 1
3 Tool Holder Bolt 2
4 Tool Holder Nut 2
5 3/16" Nylon Washer 2
6 Registration Screw 2

28

Optional & Accessory Parts

Appendix B

Optional & Accessory Parts

Product # Description

05M30.10 Additional 3mm Platter

05M30.11 Additional 4mm Platter

05M30.15 80x (180µ) 8" Zirconia Disc*

05M30.16 120x (120µ) 8" Zirconia Disc

05M30.20 100µ (150x) 8" Aluminum Oxide Disc*

05M30.21 60µ (220x) 8" Aluminum Oxide Disc

05M30.22 40µ (320x) 8" Aluminum Oxide Disc*

05M30.23 20µ (500x) 8" Aluminum Oxide Disc

05M30.24 9µ (1200x) 8" Aluminum Oxide Disc*

05M31.02 Replacement V-Belt (for serial numbers 3072 and lower)**

05M31.04 Replacement V-Belt (for serial numbers 3073 and above)**

05M30.43 Additional Tool Holder

* Included with the sharpening system.
** Refer to the label on the sharpening system housing.

29

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System
30

General Sharpening Procedures

Appendix C

General Sharpening Procedures

Somewhere in the mists of time man discovered that a to the bevel, regardless of how well you honed that
wedge-shaped rock could be used to divide things. It bevel it would still be intersecting with a grooved face
was probably only a matter of days before he found that and the resulting edge would be ragged. So the first
it was also a handy little prying tool, and probably only thing you have to do is remove these grind marks and
a matter of minutes after that when he damaged the tip make the face of the chisel as smooth as possible (as
prying something that really needed a bigger rock. The explained below).
pattern for the use and abuse of chisels was set early in
the tools’ history.

CHISELS

Chisels do not come from the store ready to use. Most
have been ground to a basic shape, a few have been
honed, none have been lapped and almost all have been
dipped in lacquer to prevent rust. The first thing to do to
your new chisel is to remove the lacquer.

Removing the Lacquer A chisel comes from the factory with grinding marks on its
face (top). These marks must be removed to create a sharp
Lacquer must be removed from the face of the chisel edge and to flatten the face (above).
and the bevel. On all except mortise chisels, it is not
mandatory to remove the lacquer from the back and the There is a second reason that lapping may be necessary;
sides, but my preference is to strip it all off up to the neck. the face of the chisel may not be flat. Although a slight
Otherwise, you have scuffed lacquer on part of the tool, hollowness can be accepted in a chisel face, it cannot
which not only looks ugly but also can give you a false have any belly and still function well. A chisel with a
sense that the tool is still rustproofed. Lacquer thinner belly in it should be returned to the vendor.
or paint stripper can be used to remove the lacquer. Be
sure the thinner does not get on the handle, since it can
soften some plastics and will strip lacquer off wooden
handles.

Lapping the Face of the Chisel

In the condition it comes from the factory, the face of
the chisel will have grinding marks on it. If you did
not first lap the chisel, but devoted your attention only

Back Bolster Shock washer
Face

Bevel

Beveled edge Neck Handle
Land Shoulder Tang

The Anatomy of a Chisel 31

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Chisel Defects

Chisel with hollow face

Chisel with bellied face

If that is not possible, initial flattening can be done on Most Japanese chisels (above) are ground hollow on the
a belt sander. Only when the face is very close to flat face, whereas Western chisels (top) are ground flat.
should you start working it with stones.
It is not necessary to get the entire face of the chisel
Most chisels made today are ground reasonably well. flat. Just as you can tolerate some hollowness fore to
Two types that you should immediately be suspicious of aft, you can tolerate some hollowness from side to side.
are chisels that have been hand ground (several German If you have a chisel that is slightly hollow from side
styles) and chisels that have been polished. Hand-ground to side, you can stop lapping it as soon as you get the
chisels are almost never flat, square or straight. Polished face to approximately the same configuration as most
chisels almost invariably have the sides rounded and the Japanese chisels, which are ground hollow on the face
face dubbed next to the bevel. The rounded sides (above) (see the bottom chisel in the photo above). You do not
prevent you from getting a flat, full-width cut; the dubbed have to be concerned that the edge will eventually reach
face (below), if uncorrected, would mean that you would the hollow portion. In the normal sharpening process
constantly have to tilt the chisel up to get it to cut. You the hollowness will slowly be eliminated as you remove
would then have poor control of the tool. a small amount of metal each time you sharpen.

To fix the dubbed tip, you usually have to grind about Shaping the Edge
1/16 in. off the bevel. Lapping the chisel face will show
when you have removed enough material. To true There are two basic activities to shaping the edge of a
rounded sides, you can use a belt sander or dress them chisel: setting the basic bevel angle and then honing it.
back on a stone. It is best to do such dressing on the edge The guiding principles you use here are that the bevel
of the stone, because you can quickly wear a groove in angle should be the lowest possible one consistent
the stone when repeatedly rubbing a narrow edge in the with edge retention in intended use, and that you want
same spot. to spend the minimum amount of time resharpening.
Under each chisel type discussed later in this chapter,
For lapping most chisels, you can start with an 800x or there will be recommended basic bevel angles, as well
1200x stone and then go directly to a 6000x or 8000x as exceptions to the general process that I am about
stone. This is one time you want to be absolutely sure to describe.
that your stones are flat, because it is a fair amount of
work to lap a chisel and you do not want to have to do Hollow grinding: For at least the past twenty years,
it more than once.
various cabinetmakers have recommended using a hand

or power grinder to put a hollow bevel on a chisel so

that it can be rapidly honed. The basic principle is that

you clamp the chisel in a simple jig that can be slid

back and forth on the grinder tool rest to grind a regular

hollow from one side of the blade to the other. When

you then hone the chisel, only the very front and the

very back of the bevel will ride on the stone. This makes

it possible to hone blades without using a honing guide,

since it minimizes the tendency of the blade to rock

during honing. Chisel

Stone

32

General Sharpening Procedures

While I am all for a method that reduces sharpening The sole purpose of a micro-bevel is to get the finest
time, hollow grinding often does so at the expense of possible edge in the shortest period of time. There is
a strong edge. The undercutting of the bevel weakens absolutely nothing wrong with grinding and honing
the edge. Equally bad, if you hollow-grind at an angle the entire bevel at 25° if you wish to. The time it takes
that will give you the necessary edge strength, you have to do this, though, is substantial, and the performance
to hone at a higher angle than is desirable for the best difference is usually not detectable.
cutting action.
When to Resharpen?
Hollow Grinding The problem is not
nearly as acute if an There are several ways to tell when you need to resharpen
Wheel 8-in. grinding wheel is a chisel. One is when you notice a difference in use. If
Bevel reflects used, but most shops the wood seems to be getting harder, check the chisel.
curvature of are equipped with Another is to look at the edge under a good light. A
wheel. 6-in. wheels, which, sharp edge reflects no light. But the most usual indicator
in time, become 5-in. is when you see scratches on your finished work. You
Tool rest wheels or even smaller. know immediately that you have a damaged edge.
The undercutting is a
major problem with Fixing nicked chisels: If you have seriously nicked a
small wheels. chisel, you may have to remove a fair amount of steel
to eliminate the nick. You can do this with a coarse
There is really nothing wrong with hollow grinding, bench stone, but you should be prepared to spend a fair
but it should be limited to about half the bevel – the amount of time at it. Even aggressive bench stones take
half farthest from the cutting edge. As an example, quite a while to work past a nick. It is faster to use a wet
if you want to put a 25° bevel on a chisel, you can grinder, a dry grinder or a belt sander. In the case of the
remove 2° or 3° more from the back half of the bevel last two, you have to be very careful not to burn the tool
to reduce your honing time substantially. For strength, or draw the temper.
you have only to worry about the front half of the bevel
(with the exception of laminated chisels, which will be If you are using a belt sander or a dry wheel, set your
dealt with later). What you do with the other half of bevel angle either with the platform of the tool rest or by
the bevel will affect rigidity, but it will not materially setting the projection of your chisel from the edge of the
affect edge strength. rest. In either case, use a simple grinding jig, which you
can make or buy. With a belt sander, use only a coarse
25° belt (80x is fine). With a dry grinder, use a soft-bond,
open-structure wheel (such as an A80H-8V). With
Relieved portion either, use a light touch and check tool temperature
of bevel often. Both cut quickly but can overheat an edge.

Removing 2° or 3° saves time in sharpening on bench For a very deep nick, the best approach is to mark a
stones because you have to deal with only the first half of line across the chisel using a square and marker pen
the bevel. As this lengthens with repeated sharpenings, and grind back to the line. I first grind the edge square,
you can periodically relieve the back part of the bevel right back to the mark, then re-form the bevel. This lets
on a grinding wheel or belt sander. you work a bit faster with less danger of burning the
edge, since you get good heat dissipation from the blunt
Micro-bevels: The best way to avoid a weak edge edge to the main body of the tool. Heat dissipates more
and still reduce your sharpening time is to use micro- slowly from a thin section.
bevels. A micro-bevel is a narrow secondary bevel at
an angle slightly higher than the primary bevel. As an Do not try to grind material off too quickly. Check blade
example, if you want to put a 25° bevel on a chisel, temperature frequently against the back of your hand,
you would shape the basic bevel at 24° on a coarse and when the blade starts to get warm cool it down by
stone and then hone on a fine stone at 25°. You need laying it on a slab of metal, which will act like a heat
only a very narrow bevel on the fine stone, because the sink. This is better than dunking the tool in water (see
efficacy of the cutting action is determined only by the the sidebar at the bottom of the next page). When you
bevel angle and the edge keenness for any given chip have formed the bevel, revert to your bench stones for
or shaving thickness. Such a narrow bevel might only the final steps.
be 1/64 in. wide.

33

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Buffing or Stropping Chisels chisels (30° is appropriate). Such narrow chisels are
seldom used for light paring so this steeper bevel angle
Some woodworkers touch up their chisels between is justified for edge retention.
sharpenings on a felt buffing wheel or a leather belt on
a belt sander; either would be charged with a buffing Rust Never Sleeps
compound first. A key to preserving the sharpness of tools is the
prevention of rust — not just the visible rust that noticeably
There is nothing wrong pits a blade but the slight rusting that comes from testing
a blade with your thumb or finger. Rust like this, although
with either system visible only under an electron microscope, is already
causing deterioration of the keen edge.
as a quick fix, but I
A pitted blade edge.
recommend that you Where rust pits intersect the edge of the blade, you get a
blade nick. Some old tools that have been allowed to pit
never buff the face deeply are hardly worth restoring. Unless the face of the tool
can be brought to a mirror finish, the same as the bevel, you
of the chisel. Almost will continue to have problems when repeated sharpenings
cause the receding bevel to encounter craters in the face.
invariably you destroy
To Quench or Not To Quench
the flatness. Similarly, As a general principle, quenching tools during grinding is
a substitute for good technique. The drawing below shows
you will find that you what happens to a quenched tool.

are not saving time at all 1. Tool at room temperature before grinding. The thin
edge heats and cools very rapidly in comparison to
if you round the bevel. I the main blade body.

also recommend using 2. As the tool heats up during grinding, it expands.
3. If the metal were perfectly elastic, this is what the tip
only the side of the
would look like as it first hit the water and the thin tip
felt wheel to minimize cooled more rapidly than the rest of the blade.
4. But metal is not perfectly elastic, and as it shrinks, tiny
bevel rounding. The cracks are created in the edge.
5. When the entire blade has cooled, the cracks may
bevel rounding caused become invisible but they will be there.

by a leather belt on a 1 2 3 45

belt sander is negligible Dotted lines show normal width
at room temperature.
If you touch up chisels between if good technique is
sharpenings on a felt buffing used (i.e., honing only If you have only one set of chisels you might even
consider putting a bevel angle as low as 20° on the
wheel, use only the side of the over the platen where largest chisel, remembering that if it is used for any
wheel to minimize bevel rounding. the leather can flex the light mortising, the mallet blows should be light as well.
least, and honing only Since the largest chisel is most frequently used for paring
this will give you the greatest versatility in a single set
at a small incremental angle increase). This method is all of chisels. If you never use your bevel-edge chisels for

made even easier if a micro-finishing belt is used on the

belt sander instead of a leather belt. There is no flexing,

and the flat joins even eliminate bumping.

Utility Bevel-Edge Chisels

Woodworkers who own only one style of chisels usually
have bevel-edge chisels, the workhorses of the shop.
This makes it a bit difficult to recommend sharpening
angles, since the chisels will see use in all types of wood
and in all activities from paring to mortising.

Usually a 25° bevel angle is adequate for these chisels,
except in the smaller sizes. As you may have noticed,
you will more frequently roll the edges on narrow
chisels than on wide ones.

The reason for this is fairly straightforward. Assume
that you are going to do some light mortising with a
1-in. chisel and a 1/4-in. chisel. If you use mallet blows
with the same force on the 1/4-in. chisel as on the 1-in.
chisel, the 1/4-in. chisel will be subjected to four times
the deforming force as the 1-in. chisel. Since we all
tend to forget that the force of mallet blows should be
modified according to the width of chisel we are using,
we frequently overstress narrow chisels. Accordingly, it
is a good idea to put a higher bevel angle on narrower

34

General Sharpening Procedures

Paring chisels, shown in straight and cranked-neck designs, can be sharpened at relatively low bevel angles. Most people
associate the term ‘paring’ with small, light chisels, yet there used to be much larger and heavier (but still slim) styles used
in some trades – chisels like the shipwright’s socket paring chisel shown at top.

mortising and you have other chisels specifically for 15° bevel angle is not unusual. Otherwise, the general
paring, you should be able to put a 25° bevel angle on sharpening procedures described at the beginning of the
all of them and be quite happy. chapter apply.

Paring Chisels Mortise and Firmer Chisels

Paring chisels are usually the same basic design as bevel- Mortising is just about the toughest test of a chisel edge.
edge chisels, except that the blades tend to be a bit thinner Cutting end grain subjects the chisel edge to nearly three
and longer. Square-edge paring chisels are less common times the force of parallel-grain or cross-grain cutting. The
than bevel-edged ones but seem to be preferred by bevel angle on a mortise chisel has to be more obtuse than
shipwrights. Possibly this is because shipwrights tended on other types of chisels to withstand these forces. For
to use square-edge chisels in all of their other activities. softwoods, mortise chisels should have a 30° bevel angle;
Cranked-neck paring chisels (no longer common) are for for hardwoods, a 35° bevel angle. These recommendations
use on large, flat surfaces where an offset neck is needed are averages only. The steel in your particular mortise
to prevent handle interference with the surface. chisels may let you get away with somewhat lower bevel
angles, or it may be relatively brittle and require somewhat
Mortise and firmer chisels require fairly steep bevel angles higher angles.Your guide is edge failure; start at a low bevel
in order to withstand the force of cutting end grain. angle and increase it only as much as required to prevent
Since paring chisels are almost invariably used with the edge from folding or chipping.
hand pressure alone and not with a mallet, they are not
subjected to the same forces as other chisels. In addition, "Firmer" is a term used to describe utility chisels of sturdy
as their name implies, paring chisels are usually used build. They normally have square edges and since they
for very light cuts. As a result, they can be sharpened are frequently used for mortising, they are lumped in here
at bevel angles of 20° or less. For very fine work, a with the general recommendations for mortise chisels.

For speed of sharpening and best penetration,
I recommend a primary bevel of 25° and a secondary
bevel of 30° or 35°, as required, extending back to
about 1/8 in. of blade thickness (see the drawing on
the next page). It is apparent that a chisel of this shape
will penetrate more deeply than one that includes the
hatched area. The wedging action is reduced.

The edge has a strong secondary-bevel angle extending
well back; the only concern is the effect on rigidity. The
reason mortise chisels are as thick as they are is only
partly to provide the rigidity needed to counteract the

35

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

force. As the tip is deflected by the reactive force of the skew chisels, so you must either sharpen them freehand
wood, a beefy blade is needed to keep the chisel from or use a top-clamp honing guide such as the General
bowing and vibrating. But most mortise chisels are of or Veritas guide. With either guide it is important that
deeper cross section than needed for rigidity. The extra the cutting edge be exactly parallel to the transverse
depth is for alignment of the tool in the mortise. The axis of the guide. This is not as easy to achieve as
minor modification of relieving the bevel angle detracts you might think. It is simple with square-edge chisels
very little from overall blade rigidity; it is usually not because you can set the bevel angle first and then fine-
noticeable in use. tune the squareness afterward. With a skew chisel you
have far more opportunity to go wrong. And this is one
Bevel Angles for Mortise Chisels Secondary case where you do not want to solve the problem with
bevel (35°) applied geometry.
Primary bevel (25°)
If you are using the Veritas honing guide and angle jig,
1/8 in. you will find that the best way to set the honing guide
on a skew is to have it on the blade loosely as you set the
If you are constantly working softwoods like clear pine, blade in the angle jig and then just release the honing
the extension of the secondary bevel can be reduced guide. It will slide down the blade and automatically
from 1/8 in. to as little as 1/16 in. of blade thickness. In align itself correctly.
fact, with clear pine you can also reduce the tip angle to
less than 30° with most chisels. If you are using the General guide, concentrate on
getting the cutting edge of the skew chisel exactly
parallel to the front edge of the honing guide (90° to the
path of travel) and then adjust the tilt angle as required.

Skew Chisels Corner Chisels

Skew chisels are actually a A corner chisel is used to clean the corners in mortises or
variant form of paring chisels, hinge gains. Large ones, usually 1 in. on a side, were very
though they are usually square- popular with wheelwrights, who called them "bruzzes."
edged, not bevel-edged. They These are truly the chisels from hell when it comes to
are most effective in end-grain sharpening. I used to think that sharpening a V-tool used
cuts and in paring the cheeks of in carving was difficult, but it is child’s play compared
tenons. Wooden-plane makers to doing a first-class job on a corner chisel.
prized these chisels for working
the beds of planes, since the Corner chisels, shown here in 1-in. and 3/8-in. sizes, are used
square-sided skew would let to clean the corners in mortises. (Photo by Susan Kahn)
them work next to the cheek The first thing you have to realize with the corner chisel is
without undercutting it, while that it has two faces, not one. Both have to be lapped until
at the same time avoiding the decently flat and then polished. Turning your attention to
choppiness that could result the inside bevels of the chisel you will normally find one
from using a square-edged of two things. If it is a new chisel, the manufacturer will
chisel on a plane bed. A skew probably not have risked sharpening it well and you will
chisel will not suddenly dig in, find a square edge, but one that is very blunt. If it is a
the way a square-end chisel used corner chisel, the edge is likely to be fairly keen but
will. For similar reasons skew
chisels are ideal for paring
the cheeks and shoulders of
tenons.

Skew chisels are usually
sharpened with a bevel angle
of 20° or less. Depending
upon the equipment you have
available, it can be a tricky Skew chisels, available in
process. Side-clamp honing left- and right-hand pairs, are
guides are of no use with specifically adapted to cutting

end grain.

36

General Sharpening Procedures

it will probably neither be straight nor at 90° to the spine It is important to keep the two cutting edges at 90° to the
of the chisel. The first thing you will have to do in this spine of the tool. If they are swept backward, the heel of
instance is grind the end of the chisel square. When this the tool will constantly be forcing its way through wood
is done you will now have reached the state where the that is not yet free to be released. With the wings square
used chisel will be exactly the same as the new chisel, a or with slight forward sweep the wood will release
good square end but blunt. freely. But realistically, if you get two straight edges
that cut well, just leave the thing alone. Be glad you
For reasons known only to the world’s corner-chisel didn’t get a hook in the corner.
manufacturers, I have always found corner chisels to be
fairly soft, almost never harder than Rc58. Many antique Japanese
ones are as low as Rc54 or Rc55. This means that they
can readily be filed, and a file is unquestionably my Chisels
first choice of sharpening tool for a corner chisel. You
have the necessary control to sneak up on a sharp edge The traditional Japanese
without overshooting it. chisel is quite different
from its Western counter-
You should use a safe-edge file for the job; otherwise, part. First, it is a laminated
you will cause yourself some problems in the corner. chisel with a very hard
Although an auger-bit file has one end where the edges steel face (Rc62 to Rc64)
are safe and another end where the faces are safe, it is laminated to a soft-steel
a bit small for most corner chisels. I recommend that or wrought-iron back.
you grind the edge off a 6-in. or 8-in. mill file and use The use of very hard steel
it instead. For a chisel too hard for a steel file, you can requires the soft back
use a diamond file. You’ll almost certainly have to do both for the damping
some work on the edge of the diamond file, because the qualities and to provide
file face seldom comes out to the edge of the supporting an element of toughness
backing plate. You’ll have to dress the backing plate that the steel face alone
flush with the file edge. would not have. Second, a
traditional Japanese chisel
Use a safe-edge mill file to sharpen the inside bevels of a has a hollow face for
corner chisel. faster sharpening and to
make it easier to maintain Traditional Japanese chisels,
A 30° bevel angle is fairly standard with corner chisels, flatness. Japanese chisels which have a hollow face
though you will find antique ones with higher bevel are sharpened in the (left), are usually sharpened
angles. I suspect that this was partly an insurance policy same manner as Western- at higher bevel angles than
on the part of the original owner who wanted to be style chisels but normally Western chisels. (Photo by
absolutely sure that an edge didn’t fold in use, and partly require higher bevel angles Susan Kahn)
the tendency to increase bevel angles to save sharpening to avoid edge chipping.
time. Given the nature of use of a corner chisel, it would
seem that 30° should be about appropriate. I have used Most traditional construction, cabinetry and interior
them only in softwood and 30° was fine. In testy woods trim in Japan is with softwoods. To avoid crushing of the
like oak, 35° might be necessary. fibers it is necessary to have particularly keen chisels, but
there is no great toughness requirement since they are
Once the inside of the chisel is filed, it should be honed subjected to little distortional force from the softwood.
with a file-shaped stone, as fine as can be found. To The use of a very hard high-carbon blade makes sense
finish off the tool, put some green buffing compound under these circumstances. The high-carbon steel will
on the face of a stick and use it on the two bevels just as take a very fine edge if the brittleness can be tolerated.
you would a file.
If you intend using traditional Japanese chisels for
Western hardwoods you are going to have to use
higher bevel angles than you are accustomed to. For
most purposes, an extra 5° should be sufficient, but for
mortise chisels you may need as much as 10° more than
you would use on a Western chisel.

37

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

It is perfectly acceptable to use the same micro-bevel Tuning a Plane
sharpening system that you use normally, but I would
not recommend relieving the back half of the bevel There is little point in sharpening the blade well if it is not
as earlier recommended for Western chisels. Neither going to be seated well on the bed of the plane or clamped
should you use a modified tip on the mortise chisel, in place in a manner that will minimize flexing of the iron
unless you make sure that the lowered angle is well in use. A quick checklist to put the plane in reasonable
back into the soft steel. Most Japanese chisels that working order would include the following steps:
I have used will take a wonderfully keen edge, but
they are far more prone to edge crumbling than other 1. Strip off the lacquer: First, remove any lacquer
alloys. Woods of inconsistent hardness (such as end- from the plane blade, the sole of the plane and the
grain oak) can cause very rapid edge degradation. A sides. It is only there to make the plane look good and
pin knot can take out a piece large enough to make prevent it from rusting until it is sold. After stripping,
you weep. you can wax any parts you won’t be abrading. The
wax will prevent rusting and reduce friction.
With successive sharpenings the hollow face is going
to get ever closer to the cutting edge. You do not want 2. True the sole: With the blade in the plane and the lever
it to get much closer than 1/8 in. or you risk weakening cap in position tightened for use, lap the sole of the
the edge, particularly on a mortise chisel. You have plane until it is flat. Lapping can be done in a variety of
two choices. You can lap the back of the chisel to ways, but the most practical method in a small shop is
effect the necessary recession of the hollowness, or to use silicon-carbide grit on a cast-iron lapping plate,
you can try the Japanese method of tapping it out or on a fairly firm plastic sheet such as Mylar fixed to
with a hammer. I use the lapping method for two a sheet of plate glass with spray adhesive.
reasons. First, I have not found the hollow face to
be a discernible advantage in use and therefore am Start with about a 90 grit and do not move to a finer
not concerned about reduction of the hollow through grit until the sole of the plane is flat in all critical
lapping. Second, I cannot bring myself to use a steel areas. (Change to a finer grit only to get the degree
hammer on a chisel blade because I am convinced that of smoothness that you want on the plane’s bottom.)
I would do more evil than good. Use a slightly circular or figure-eight motion in
lapping to keep the grit evenly distributed under the
But for those of you who are seized with the karma of sole. Take care to keep the pressure directly down
Japanese tools, I can recommend two excellent books on the plane with no tendency to tilt it.
that will explain the process of hammering out the
hollow: Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Lateral-adjustment lever
Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate (The Taunton Press,
1984) and Japanese Woodworking Tools: Selection, Lever cap
Care and Use by Henry Lanz (Sterling, 1985).
Depth-adjustment
PLANES screw

I doubt that there is any hand tool more satisfying to Cap iron or Frog Tote
use than a finely tuned plane with a perfectly sharpened chip breaker Heel
blade. The ease of use, the consistency of results and the Blade or iron Machined
general feeling of craftsmanship generated create one faces
of the magic moments of woodworking. Knob
Sole
Sharpening the blade perfectly is a relatively easy task Toe Cheek
compared to the fine tuning. The production process
that is used for most bench planes today seldom creates The Anatomy of a Plane Mouth
an end product that is ready for use even if it came with
a sharp blade – which it usually does not! When you
buy a new plane you are usually getting a collection of
parts that can only be converted into a fully functioning
tool with a fair amount of thought and a substantial
amount of work.

38

General Sharpening Procedures

Lapping the Sole

When the sole of a plane body is being milled (or ground),
the plane is clamped on the cheeks. The clamping pressure
causes the sole to arch outward. When the clamps are
released after machining, the finished sole is almost
invariably hollow. A bit of hollowness is of no great concern,
but there are three places where you must be certain that
the sole is dead flat after lapping — both tips and the front
of the mouth, as shown below.

Hollow sole from
grinding process

Moving the plane in a figure-eight or circular motion, lap the
sole with silicon-carbide grit on a sheet Mylar-faced plate glass.

Having the blade and lever cap in position and Use a straightedge to check that the machined surfaces of
tightened introduces the permanent forces that the the frog are true. Check diagonally as well as transversely.
plane will experience. With these forces in place as (Photo by Susan Kahn)
the sole is being trued, you have some assurance
that the sole will be flat when you really need it to Dress the tip of the cap iron on a stone, with the opposite end
be flat, that is, in use. of the iron held about 1/8 in. below the level of the stone.

3. True the bed: The bed is everything that the blade
rests on, including the frog and the machined surface
adjacent to the mouth. The machined surfaces of the
bed should be in a single plane from top to bottom
and side to side. This may require some adjustment
of the frog (if it is adjustable) or filing of the bed, with
frequent test fittings of the blade using machinist’s
dye or carbon paper to indicate high spots.

This is exactly the same process that dentists use to
test and then modify a new filling to suit your bite.
With a plane, if you paint the blade with machinist’s
dye, the dye will transfer to the high points of the
bed when the blade is pressed into position. If you
use carbon paper, put the carbon side next to the
bed before positioning the blade.

4. Dress the lever cap: The first 1/8 in. or so of the
lever-cap bottom should be lapped on a stone so
that it will create a single line of contact with the
cap iron, or with the blade itself on those models
that do not have a cap iron. This is important since
the lever cap has to fit well to tension the blade in
the plane, minimizing chatter in use.

The dressed cap iron should fit tightly across the width of
the plane blade.

39

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Dressing a Block-Plane On a block plane, the the bevel-shaping process. The guide lets you apply
Lever Cap lever cap also serves as greater pressure while holding the exact angle you
a cap iron and should want, and you get better results in less time than with
Lap 1/8-in. Fair curve for fit snugly to the blade freehand honing.
band. good chip-breaker across its entire width.
action. To dress it, scrape the As with chisels, I recommend putting the basic bevel
paint off the last 1/4 in. of on the blade at 1° less than the micro-bevel. Basic
Remove paint. the bottom of the lever shaping on an 800x stone and finishing on a 4000x to
cap near the tip and lap 8000x is suitable.
a band about 1/8 in. wide
on it (see the drawing on An unlapped blade (left) and a lapped one (right).
the left).You should also
fair the curved tip so that Choosing a Bevel Angle
shavings will slide over
it smoothly. Choosing a bevel angle is a nearly limitless discussion
area because of the nearly limitless combination of plane
5. Dress the cap iron: The cap iron, or "chip types, wood types and cutting processes. Many aspects
breaker," should be dressed across its width at an will be covered under the various plane types detailed
angle that is just slightly less than one that would in the rest of this chapter, but the first major division
make it parallel to the plane blade. This will is between those planes where the blade is used bevel
ensure that the nose of the cap iron fits tightly to down (the vast majority, including all bench planes) and
the plane blade; if there are any gaps, shavings those planes where the blade is bevel up – the block
will inevitably lodge between the cap iron and planes and low-angle special-purpose planes.
the blade, choking the mouth of the plane. This
dressing can easily be done freehand (see the third Bench Planes
photo on the previous page).
Virtually all bevel-down planes have bed angles of
As long as the unground tip of the cap iron is 45° or 50°. In the areas of greater specialization, 45°
held 1/8 in. or more below the level of the stone bed angles are commonly used for softwoods and 50°
being used to shape the tip, you will have the right beds for hardwoods. The bed angle is not significant
geometry to give you a tight fit. After the cap to the choice of bevel angle in either case. Anything
iron has been dressed and fastened to the blade, between 30° and 35° is quite acceptable. If you go
it should meet the blade all across the tip and be much lower than 30° you encourage blade chatter; if
slightly canted away from it toward the arch (see you go much higher than 35° any wear dulls the blade
the photo at the bottom of the previous page). much faster, but, more significantly, you could reduce
the relief angle unacceptably, particularly on planes
Sharpening the Blade of with a 45° bed.
a Plane
Bevel-down planes as a group represent an exception
Just as you would do with a chisel, the first thing you to the general rule that blades should be sharpened
do with a plane blade is remove any lacquer or paint at the lowest angle consistent with edge retention,
and lap the face of the blade. Lapping can be done on a because the bevel angle has no bearing on the cutting
medium stone (800x to 1200x) followed by a fine stone angle. A sturdy edge is wanted, and a basic grind angle
(4000x to 8000x). Unlike when lapping a chisel, you do of 30° to 35° will give you good blade stability and the
not have to be concerned about the entire blade being least chatter.
flat at the perimeter. Any slight hollowness or belly
in a plane blade is compensated for by the clamping
pressures between the lever cap and the blade. Your
primary concern is just to get a good smooth surface
on the face of the blade near the cutting edge before
turning your attention to the bevel.

After choosing the bevel angle (see the discussion of
specific types of planes for recommended angles), I
strongly recommend that you use a honing guide for

40

General Sharpening Procedures

Turning to blade shape, the general rule of thumb Scrub Plane
for standard bench planes (#3 to #8) is that the blade
be sharpened square across unless you intend to be The scrub plane is the very roughest of the smoothing
working wood wider than the blade; in this case, you planes and is used for major stock removal. The blade
would either round the blade corners, crown the blade comes with quite a sharply curved edge, which is fairly
or do a bit of both, depending on your intended use. easy to maintain using exactly the same principle
described in the sidebar on the facing page (only in this
Smoothing Planes instance a slightly modified jig would be necessary to
hold the blade farther up). The grind radius can be as
(#3, #4½, #5½) little as 11/2 in.

The #3 smoothing plane is usually used for the final Jack Planes, Jointer Planes
smoothing of large flat surfaces. It is not used to take and Others (#5, #6, #7 and #8)
off much material, so it should be set for a very fine
shaving. You want the corners of the blade to be slightly Most woodworkers use these larger planes (jack, fore,
rounded, so that overlapping passes of slightly different jointer, trying and panel planes) only for working the
height will not have a distinct overlap line nor will you edge of stock, in which case the blade can be ground
get any fiber tearing as would be the case with a square- and honed perfectly square. For use on surfaces wider
edge blade. than the plane, you would ease the corners of the blade
as described under smoothing planes.
Whether or not you use a honing guide, it is a fairly
simple matter to put a straight basic bevel on a Block Planes
smoothing-plane blade and then bias the process first
to one corner and then to the other to round off the last Whereas bench planes are generally used with the grain,
1/8 in. or 1/4 in. of blade. The rounding does not have to the block plane was designed to work end grain. Today
be substantial, since the plane will be used only for very it is used for all types of cuts, but its name comes from
light finishing cuts. its original use in dressing the top of butchers’ blocks.
As the various ways to shape the blade are discussed
The #41/2 and #51/2 are planes designed for hogging below, keep in mind that the recommendations are
off wood in the smoothing process. In normal use it is aimed at effective end-grain cutting.
not enough to just round the corners of these blades,
the entire blade should be crowned by 1/32 in. to 1/16 in. Block planes provide an opportunity for some very
This can be done with a honing guide putting "English" innovative sharpening, but they are probably among the
on one side and then the other, but it can be difficult worst-made planes on the market today. For example, of
to get enough curvature this way. One easy solution is the four block planes made by Record and Stanley, only
to keep a worn stone specifically for sharpening such the Record #091/2 has a lever cap that is long enough. Since
blades. Such an out-of-true stone can be used only for block planes do not have cap irons, the lever cap has to
the bevels and never for lapping. A better alternative is do double duty whenever a cap iron would be desirable
to use a simple jig to grind the crown, as shown in the
sidebar on the next page.

Lowering the Bed Angle on a Block Plane

If you have a short lever cap on your block plane, it will apply If you find it too difficult to get even seating of the tensioned
blade along the entire bed, you can relieve just the back
pressure behind the machined portion of the bed causing part of the bed so that the blade only touches at the mouth.
That is still better than the condition you are correcting.
the end of the blade to be lifted away from the bed.To reduce

blade chatter caused by this flaw, you have to lower the bed

angle so that the blade rests on the bed at the mouth, not

1/4 in. back of the mouth. To dress the bed, strip the plane

(removing the adjustable nosepiece) and file the bed, letting

the file pass through the open mouth and using the frog post Lever cap

as a guide since it is several degrees below the blade line on

all modern block planes. (The low post is another flaw, but at Blade

least it works in your favor for this process.) Remove material Frog post
here to lower bed
angle.

Gap caused by short lever cap

41

Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Grinding a Crown on a Blade Front View Side View

There are many ways to grind a Tool-rest table
crown on a blade. The jig shown
here works with a dry grinder or Fix blade on arm with
belt sander. Using thin wood as a double-faced tape.
table extender, drill holes in it as
required and use another piece of Plane blade 30°
wood as a rotating arm. With the Rotating arm
plane blade attached to the rotating Grinding wheel
arm with double-faced tape, you Table extender (or belt sander)
can select the amount of crown
you want on a blade by picking a
suitable point of rotation. About 7-
in. radius is fine for a #41/2 or #51/2
plane blade. For fine adjustment,
you can make the rotating arm
adjustable in length.

Crowned blade

– usually only for face- or edge-grain cutting with a standard Possibly more significant, you have sharpened the blade
block plane; a cap iron is not needed when cutting end grain. of your standard block plane in a manner that will give
Because these planes have only a narrow bed lip and a frog you a lower cutting angle than someone who sharpens
post for the blade to rest on, it is desirable that the lever cap a low-angle block plane in a standard fashion (12° bed
extend at least to a point above the bed lip; otherwise, it will angle plus 25° bevel, a total of 37°).
be pressing on an unsupported section of the blade.
All of this dazzling footwork with bevel angles
The lever caps on both of the Stanley block planes are about now raises the question, “Why do we bother with
1/4 in. short of what they should be, and the lever cap on the a low-angle block plane?” It is a good question.
Record #0601/2 is nearly 1/2 in. short. To compensate for The answer is that lower bed angles not only let
this, you should lower the bed angle by 1° or 2° to ensure you use lower cutting angles but they also align the
that the pressure of the short lever cap does not cause the blade more closely with the direction of cut, thereby
blade to arch away from the front of the bed. Assuming minimizing chatter. The lower you make the bed
that you have done that and all the other necessary tune-up angle, the closer you approach the function of a
procedures, you can turn your attention to the blade. chisel, which does not chatter.

Bevel Angles Bevel Angles for Standard Block Plane

The standard block plane (#91/2) has a bed angle of 20°. 15° bevel 35° cutting
Since the blade is used bevel up, if we put a standard 25° angle
bevel on the blade, we will end up with a cutting angle of
45°. This just happens to be the same cutting angle that 10° back bevel
we have for a smoothing plane, which has a bed angle of 10° relief angle
45° but where the blade is used bevel down. So when you
sharpen the blade of your standard block plane at 25°, you Bevel Angles for Low-Angle Block Plane
produce what is in essence a smaller smoothing plane.
General purpose Softwood configuration
But there is nothing to say that you can’t put two bevels
on a plane blade. You can easily grind and hone a 15° 32° 27°
bevel on the blade and then put a 10° back bevel on the 20° 15°
face of the blade (as shown in the top drawing at right).
This would still leave you with a 25° included angle, 25° 5° 7° 20° 5° 7°
but you would now have reduced your cutting angle
from 45° to 35°. You are still left with a 10° relief angle,
which is perfectly adequate for block-plane use.

42

General Sharpening Procedures

In practice, whether or not you get chatter with a low- By now you should also have realized that there is a
angle block plane depends almost entirely on the fit of strong argument for low-angle block planes. Not only
the blade to the bed and how well you can tension your can you get the total cutting angle as low as 27° (which
blade with the lever cap. A well-tuned standard block is approaching the cutting angle of a chisel), but a block
plane will chatter less on end grain than a low-angle plane is far easier to use in a skewed position than is a
plane with a blade just as sharp but that has not otherwise chisel. If you then skew a block plane with a 27° cutting
been tuned. In my view, once the blade is clamped in angle, you can drop the effective cutting angle further
position properly with a lever cap of the right length, – to 20° at 45° of skew, and 14° at 60° of skew.
bed angles become a secondary consideration; cutting
angles remain significant. Whether or not you do any or all of the things suggested
here is almost incidental to my purpose. What is
Given the curious state of block-plane production today, particularly important is that you become comfortable
I would look first for a block plane that can be tensioned with the principles involved so that you can tune your
properly (e.g., a Record #091/2), get an extra blade, and planes and shape their blades to suit your requirements
then have one blade sharpened for regular block-plane and your practices.
use and the other blade sharpened for low-angle use.
KNIVES
Low-Angle Block Planes
In woodworking, we are basically concerned only with
Having undermined the argument for having a low-angle knives that cut wood. But this is a fairly narrow view
block plane, let’s take a look at them anyway.You want the of the world. Over a lifetime, unless we just happen
lowest possible cutting angle when you are working end to be carvers, we will all probably spend more time
grain. One aspect of cutting end grain is that the lighter using kitchen knives than woodworking knives. For this
the cut you make, the lower the relief angle required. This reason, I’m going to talk about kitchen knives first.
is fairly straightforward because the lighter cut causes less
fiber distortion and therefore less springback. Actually, there is a second reason. No non-woodworker
is going to take a sharpening book seriously if it does
So for fine trimming work on end grain (where you are not have basic instructions on sharpening kitchen
not going to be taking heavy cuts), I would recommend knives. So this next section anticipates the question,
that you put a 20° bevel on the blade and a 5° back bevel “Are you telling me that you bought a book on
(see the drawing on the previous page). This will give sharpening and it doesn’t even tell you how to sharpen
you a 32° cutting angle. For working softwoods only, a butcher knife decently?”
you can change this even more. You can put a 15° bevel
on the blade and a 5° back bevel (see the drawing on the Finally, since edge-design considerations are so similar
previous page). But if you do this and inadvertently use for kitchen knives, belt knives and woodworking knives,
the plane on end-grain oak, you can expect to put some this digression into kitchen knives only reinforces the
marvelous serrations in your blade. need to adjust edge shape to intended use.

It is difficult to be definitive about many of these bevel Sharpening Kitchen Knives
angles. Some people never skew a block plane in use;
other people always skew it. If you normally use a block Kitchen knives are very easy to sharpen, which is
plane in a skewed position, you can get away with lower fortunate because most of them are left rattling around
bevel angles. If you are always working clear pine, you in drawers or abused in a variety of ways that dulls
can get away with very low bevel angles. Only you them very quickly. However, most kitchen-knife users
know which wood you will be working and how you seem to be satisfied with the condition of the knife as
will be working it. Experience will tell you what you long as the cutting edge is keener than the back of the
can and cannot do. All I can do here is provide you with knife. The tolerance for dull knives is amazingly high
a rough road map. in most kitchens.

In all of the block-plane drawings I have shown fairly The practical test of sharpness for a kitchen knife is
long back bevels. This was done only to make the whether or not it will slice soft vegetables, meat or
illustrations clearer. The back bevels should be very bread. In all three uses, you do not want a knife with
short, only enough to give you the edge strength that is a classically sharp edge such as I have described for
required. In general, this means that a back bevel from chisels and plane blades; you want a slightly serrated
1/64 in. to 1/32 in. is ample. If you make the back bevels edge, a sort of combination between a knife and a saw.
too long, they start to interfere with the fit of the blade
in the plane.

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Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System

Back Tang
Choil
Head

Swage

Scale

The Anatomy of a Knife Edge

Unlike wood, meat and soft vegetables have little Using a Belt Sander
rigidity to their structure. They are about 95% water
held together with films and filaments of varying I do virtually all kitchen-knife sharpening on a 1-in. belt
strengths. To cut them, you need an edge that will rend sander; a wheel grinder tends to undercut the bevel too
their fabric at very low applied pressure. much. For something like a meat cleaver, where you need
a fairly straight edge or at least a fair curve, you should
The skin of a tomato is sufficiently tough that it will sharpen opposite the platen of the belt sander. But for all
maintain its integrity in the face of pressure from a other knives I find it easiest to work in the unsupported area
smooth knife edge. Of course, you can only apply between the platen and the upper wheel (as shown in the
relatively light pressure, otherwise you tend to squash photo below). You still have good control, and it naturally
the entire tomato. You will find that a less finely finished gives a slightly rounded bevel for a strong edge (without
edge, one that has many fine serrations in it from a blunting the overall shape too much). The basic concern
medium-grit abrasive (400x to 1200x) will cut into the is not getting the knife sharp, but getting it sharp without
tomato much more easily because it is better designed to removing too much metal. Even a 240x belt will strip off
tear apart a film and sever fibers. Although the desirable metal at an alarming rate. Fortunately, you quickly get used
amount of serration varies, you want a bit of tooth on to the action of the belt sander and will find that you can
any blade used for soft vegetables, meats and bread. easily sharpen knives at the rate of about one a minute on
the machine without excessive metal removal.
Bevel Angles
To sharpen a kitchen knife on a belt sander, hold the bevel
Since these materials exert minimal forces on the cutting against the belt in the unsupported area between the platen
edge, you do not have to police your bevel angles very and the upper wheel. (Photo by Susan Kahn)
closely.You can sharpen most kitchen knives freehand and Unless you are sharpening at a very high included angle,
at a reasonably wide range of bevel angles, anywhere from you will almost inevitably get a wire edge no matter how
5° to nearly 20° (10° to 35° included angle) without being careful you are. This should not be a matter of concern.
overly concerned about edge retention. There is a great When you are satisfied that all your knives are well
deal of flexibility in all of this, and your guide should be sharpened except for the wire edge, remove it with an
an angle in this range that you can consistently reproduce. alternate trailing stroke. Alternatively, you can remove
the wire edge with a few deft strokes on a stone.
There are some exceptions to the above statements. Any
knife that will be used for chopping, particularly where
bone may be present, should have an included angle (the
combined bevel angles) of at least 30°. A cleaver should
be at 50° or more to avoid edge nicking. The included
angle should be proportional to the force that will be
used or, put another way, to the resistance that will be
encountered. For a kitchen knife used with hand pressure
to divide frozen meat, 30° should be sufficient. For the
same knife chopping up chicken or ribs, it should have a
50° or 60° included angle at the edge. In short, it should
be sharpened like a cleaver because that is how you are
using it.

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