2020-07-01 Cook's Illustrated

JULY & AUGUST 2020

PAGE 6 PAGE 20
PAGE 4

PAGE 18 PAGE 14 PAGE 8

2 Quick Tips 13 The Fastest Fresh 22 A Thermometer for

Quick and easy ways to perform everyday tasks, Tomato Sauce Multitaskers
from cracking peppercorns to cleaning up spills.
Your best bet for pasta sauce on the fly? The small Babysitting food can be a real slog; remote-probe
COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO but mighty cherry tomato. BY STEVE DUNN thermometers untether you from the oven or grill
and let you monitor food temperature from afar.
4 Smashed Burgers 14 Showstopper Melon Salads
BY LAUREN SAVOIE
The best burgers usually revolve around bespoke Pairing sweet, luscious melon with salty, savory
blends that cook up ultrajuicy, but this diner staple elements is nothing new—it’s how you do it that 25 Tasting Meat-Free Burgers
trades on one simple truth: Crust is king. can make all the difference. BY ANDREA GEARY
Can these new products satisfy vegetarians and
BY LAN LAM 16 How to Make Pro-Caliber meat eaters alike? BY KATE SHANNON

6 Malaysian Chicken Satay Ice Cream 28 Ingredient Notes

Meet your new favorite grilled chicken dish: It’s Ice cream distills some of the most complex BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREA GEARY &
deeply aromatic, gorgeously charred, fast to cook, culinary science into cold, creamy magic, but it’s ANDREW JANJIGIAN
and paired with a peanut sauce you’ll want to eat actually simple to make yourself. Here’s everything
by the spoonful. BY STEVE DUNN you need to know to get churning. 30 Kitchen Notes

8 The Silkiest Risotto BY ELIZABETH BOMZE AND DAN SOUZA BY CAMILA CHAPARRO, LEAH COLINS,
STEVE DUNN & ANDREW JANJIGIAN
Our formula for the sweetest, freshest corn flavor 18 Why and How to Grill
also turns out the most luxurious pot of risotto 32 Equipment Corner
we’ve ever had. BY ANNIE PETITO Stone Fruit
BY MIYE BROMBERG, RIDDLEY
10 Moroccan Fish Tagine The right technique coaxes smoky sweetness GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM, LAUREN SAVOIE & KATE
from ripe peaches, plums, or nectarines. SHANNON
With its vibrant colors, punchy flavors, and
straightforward technique, a tagine is just the thing BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN Join Our Community of Recipe Testers
to perk up mild white fish. BY ANNIE PETITO
20 Brewing the Best Iced Tea Our recipe testers provide valuable feedback on
12 Spanish Migas recipes under development by ensuring that they are
Whether you sip it daily or want a special beverage foolproof in home kitchens. Help Cook’s Illustrated
This hearty one-dish meal takes leftover bread for summertime meals, here is how to make a investigate the how and why behind successful recipes
from stale to sublime. BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN lively, full-flavored brew. BY LAN LAM from your home kitchen.
Sign up at AmericasTestKitchen.com/recipe_testing.
America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home cooks how to be successful in the kitchen since 1993. Our
mission is to empower and inspire confidence, community, and creativity in the kitchen. Millions watch our two
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15,000 square feet of test kitchen and studio space. Learn more at AmericasTestKitchen.com.

EDITORIAL STAFF LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Chief Executive Officer David Nussbaum A PLACE IN THE SUN
Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop
Editor in Chief Dan Souza A blade of sunlight cuts through a gap from what you imagined. I hope that your local farm
Editorial Director Amanda Agee between the shade and the window frame stands are teeming with aromatic fruits and tender
Deputy Editor Rebecca Hays and lands on the couch cushion next to greens and that shopping for food is once again a
Executive Managing Editor Todd Meier me; within minutes my cat, Miamo, has joy. But if that’s not the case, I hope that you’ll take
Executive Food Editor Keith Dresser
Managing Editor Elizabeth Bomze intercepted it with her left flank. All these recipes and make substitutions
Deputy Food Editor Andrea Geary
Senior Editors Andrew Janjigian, Lan Lam, Annie Petito cats are expert solar trackers, intui- and adaptations that work for you and
Associate Editor Steve Dunn
Photo Team Manager Alli Berkey tively migrating throughout the day to your family. We develop our recipes
Lead Test Cook, Photo Team Eric Haessler
Test Cooks, Photo Team Hannah Fenton, ensure an optimal angle of incidence so that they’ll work even under

Jacqueline Gochenouer with the sun’s rays. But black cats get less-than-ideal conditions. They’re
Assistant Test Cooks, Photo Team Gina McCreadie,
the most bang for their buck. Miamo, resilient, just like all of us.
Christa West
Copy Editors Christine Campbell, April Poole, who resembles a cast-iron Dutch oven If you’re looking for a place to

Rachel Schowalter in more ways than one, finds and begin, I’d recommend Steve Dunn’s
Managing Editor, Web Mari Levine
Digital Content Producer Danielle Lapierre absorbs light energy with aplomb. supersavory Pasta with Burst Cherry
Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams
Over the past months of keeping Tomato Sauce and Fried Caper
Executive Editors, Tastings & Testings Hannah Crowley,
Lisa McManus distance, staying home, and look- Crumbs (page 13). I can’t think of

Senior Editors, Tastings & Testings Lauren Savoie, ing out for loved ones, I’ve watched a faster way to turn summery fresh
Kate Shannon
with adoration as Miamo spins her tomatoes into a satisfying, comforting
Associate Editors, Tastings & Testings Miye Bromberg,
Riddley Gemperlein-Schirm, Carolyn Grillo daily orbit around the house. She’s DAN SOUZA dinner. You could also make a per-

Assistant Editor, Tastings & Testings Chase Brightwell good at staying within these walls. Editor in Chief fect summer meal out of two of Lan
I, on the other hand, need a lot of Lam’s recipes: ultrabeefy Smashed
Creative Director John Torres
Photography Director Julie Cote help and support. For me it has come in the form Burgers (page 5) and refreshing Raspberry-Basil
Art Director Jay Layman
Art Director, Tastings & Testings Marissa Angelone of phone and video calls with friends and family and Iced Black Tea (page 21). I might round out that
Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise, Daniel J. van Ackere
Photographer Kevin White long walks among trees and squirrels. I’ve also found combination with one of Andrea Geary’s stunning
Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy
incredible escape and solace from time spent in the melon salads (page 15). If you have access to good
Senior Director, Creative Operations Alice Carpenter
Deputy Editor, Culinary Content and kitchen. I can’t remember a time in my life where stone fruit and a grill, Andrew Janjigian is ready to

Curriculum Christie Morrison I’ve leaned so heavily on my passion for cooking. teach you how to transform peaches, nectarines,
Senior Manager, Publishing Operations Taylor Argenzio
Imaging Manager Lauren Robbins I have a hunch that, as fellow cooks, you may be and plums into juicier, lightly charred versions of
Production & Imaging Specialists Tricia Neumyer,
feeling the same way. themselves, perfect for folding into a tomato and
Dennis Noble, Amanda Yong
Deputy Editor, Editorial Operations Megan Ginsberg The talented cooks and editors who make this burrata salad or serving with ice cream (page 19).
Assistant Editors, Editorial Operations Tess Berger,
great magazine developed their recipes and wrote And speaking of ice cream, you’ll want to check
Sara Zatopek
Test Kitchen Director Erin McMurrer their stories for this issue months before our world out Elizabeth Bomze’s guide to making scoop
Assistant Test Kitchen Director Alexxa Benson
Test Kitchen Manager Meridith Lippard changed. Our goal was to create a veritable guide- shop–caliber quarts (page 16). I’m already looking
Test Kitchen Facilities Manager Kayce Vanpelt
Test Kitchen Shopping & Receiving Lead Heather Tolmie book to cooking the summer’s bounty. I like to forward to churning a batch of strawberry ripple
Senior Kitchen Assistant Shopper Avery Lowe
think we achieved it. But the truth is that when (my favorite). But I’ll have to keep my wits about
BUSINESS STAFF
you read this issue, summer may look very different me when I do. Miamo loves ice cream.
Chief Financial Officer Jackie McCauley Ford
Senior Manager, Customer Support Tim Quinn FOR INQUIRIES, ORDERS, OR MORE INFORMATION
Customer Support Specialist Mitchell Axelson
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE COOK’S ILLUSTRATED MAGAZINE CooksIllustrated.com
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Cover Art Robert Papp

PRINTED IN THE USA

july & august 2020

1

Clean Up Messy Spills QUICK TIPS An Easy Way to
with Salt Crack Peppercorns
j COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO k
If Rose Smythe of San Francisco, Victoria Vinton of Tucson, Ariz., has
Calif., spills oil or accidently drops Avoiding a “Foot” on Chocolate-Dipped Treats always found it difficult to crack pep-
an egg, she cleans up the mess with percorns with the bottom of a skillet
salt. She covers the spill with a gener- Nancy Annis of Henniker, N.H., enjoys making chocolate-dipped treats such as and recently found a better tool for
ous amount of table or kosher salt buckeyes and chocolate-covered strawberries but dislikes when a “foot” (a puddle the job: a tortilla press. She places a
(for eggs, she removes any large shell of excess chocolate) forms where the chocolate touches the surface under the few peppercorns close to the hinge
pieces first) and lets the mixture sit treats. To prevent this, she inserts a toothpick into each treat to serve as a handle, on the bottom plate, where she’ll get
until the moisture has been soaked dips the treat into the chocolate, gently shakes off the excess, and then spears the the most leverage; closes the press;
up, about 5 minutes. Once a paste free end of the toothpick into a piece of Styrofoam covered with aluminum foil. and then presses down. To crack a
has formed, she scoops it up with a This way, the treat dries upside down without touching larger amount, she puts the pepper-
paper towel or dustpan before clean- a flat surface that would cause it to form a foot and corns in a zipper-lock bag and rotates
ing the area with soap and water. the foil catches drips, making cleanup easy. the bag between presses so that they
crack evenly.
Slice Avocado with a Spoon Tortillas Warmed by Steam Power
A Smart Place to Hold
Brandy Schneider of Boulder, Eli Hulnick of Newton, Mass., doesn’t own a tortilla warmer, but that doesn’t stop a Shopping List
Colo., always used to slice avoca- him from serving heated tortillas. He simply wraps a stack of flour or corn tortillas
dos by cutting the flesh inside the in a clean dish towel and then places the package in a bamboo steamer basket. He When shopping for groceries, Pam
halved, pitted fruit with a paring sets the basket over simmering water, making sure that the water doesn’t touch the Wells of Milwaukie, Ore., would get
knife, but it was difficult to keep basket. After a few minutes, the tortillas are warmed and ready to serve. frustrated with losing her list while
the slices intact when she later shopping. To keep her list front
scooped them out with a spoon. and center, she punches a hole in
Then she discovered this trick: the paper and then uses a twist tie
Hold a pitted avocado half in your to secure it to the handle of the
palm and use a soupspoon to make shopping cart.
slices and remove them
in one fell swoop—
this way,
the spoon
cradles the
slices so that
they don’t break.

SEND US YOUR TIPS We will provide a complimentary one-year subscription for each tip we print. Send your tip, name, address, and ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
telephone number to Quick Tips, Cook’s Illustrated, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA 02210, or to [email protected].

cook’s illustrated

2

Makeshift Muffin Tin Gas-Range Igniter
Protector
Bonnie Ruger of Scotts Valley, Calif., came up with this tip for baking muffins or cupcakes without a muffin tin: Set canning-jar
rings atop their lids on a rimmed baking sheet, and then place a paper muffin-tin liner inside each ring. The rings will prevent When thoroughly cleaning his gas
heavy batters from spreading out so that the baked goods emerge nicely domed. The lids add a bit of protection to the range, Francis Charboneau of Vista,
bottoms of the baked goods so that they don’t overbrown. Calif., found that the sponge or towel
he used to remove caked-on food
occasionally snagged on the igniter.
To eliminate any risk of damage, he
cut a 1-inch length of plastic straw
and slipped the piece onto the igniter
as temporary protection.

TWO NEW USES FOR RUBBER BANDS Practice Dough Braiding with Play-Doh

Jar Labels When Terry Varner of Marietta, Ohio, wanted to
practice braiding techniques for bread dough or pie
When storing dry ingredients or dough without overworking (or sacrificing) actual
leftovers in jars, Gerry Claus of dough, she purchased multiple colors of Play-Doh.
Pittsburgh, Pa., uses a permanent She rolled the “dough” into long ropes, using a
marker to label a wide rubber band different color for each strand to help her keep
and slips it over the jar rather than track of the pieces as she worked. With no risk of
labeling the jar itself, which would waste, she could practice the techniques until she
require extra washing afterward. felt confident enough to use actual dough.
The band is easy to remove and is also
handy to help open the lid, if needed.

Nonslip Feet for Cutting Board

To prevent a cutting board from dangerously sliding around on the counter
during chopping, many cooks place a grippy rubber mat or a damp paper towel
beneath it. Lacking a rubber mat and not wanting to waste a paper towel,
Garrett Schreiber of Cambridge, Mass., found that placing a rubber band under
each corner of the board helped anchor it securely in place.

july & august 2020

3

Smashed Burgers

The best burgers usually revolve around bespoke blends that cook up ultrajuicy,
but this diner staple trades on one simple truth: Crust is king.

j BY LAN LAM k

I f the edge-versus-center debate were about Behold, our meticulously composed smashed burger: double-stacked patties that just overhang the bun to accentuate
burgers instead of brownies, my allegiances their crisp edges; a slice of Kraft American cheese; bright, creamy burger sauce; lettuce; tomato; and a soft bun.
would fall squarely with Team Edge—or, in this
case, Team Crust. Because as much as I appre- to it than simply searing the patty hard on each side. cut of beef or grind your own meat. In fact, com-

ciate the beefy, medium-rare middle of a plump, Furthermore, you have to get the toppings just right, mercially ground beef (80 percent lean) makes better

juicy burger, the savory depth of well-browned beef because smashed burgers—more than any other style smashed burgers than home-ground chuck does

is simply unrivaled. of burger—rely on the condiments to deliver the because the former is more finely ground and thus

That’s why I love smashed burgers. These diner moisture and tenderness that are sacrificed in pursuit stays more cohesive when it’s flattened. (Skeptical?

icons share the same thin, verging-on-well-done of the ultimate crust. It’s a smart, sum-of-its-parts See “When Preground Is Preferable.”)

profile as typical fast-food burgers, as well as their approach to burgers, and when the elements are The first step is to form the meat into balls no

all-American array of fixings: gooey American cheese; pitch-perfect and properly assembled, each bite is larger than 4 ounces each (any bigger and the flat-

creamy, tangy burger sauce; crisp lettuce; thinly sliced absolute nirvana. tened patty will comically overhang the edges of PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

tomato; and a soft bun. But with a smashed burger, the bun). Then you place a ball in a smoking-hot

extra-special attention is paid to making the brown- Getting Stuck cast-iron skillet and—literally, as the name sug-

est, crispiest, most savory crust. Smashed burgers are fast and easy to make. Since the gests—smash it so that the meat spreads out as

Maximizing that Maillard browning is where patty is thoroughly cooked and the crust delivers so much as possible and creates loads of surface area for

technique comes in, but as I discovered, there’s more much flavor, there’s no need to be choosy about the seasoning and browning. It takes only a minute or

two for the crust to form, at which point you flip the

patty, cook it just a few seconds longer so that the

INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT meat cooks through, slide it onto the bun, and top
it with cheese. Since the whole operation goes fast,
When Preground Is Preferable

Most burgers are best made from meat you grind yourself, it’s easy to make more. Just scrape out the residual

but there are two reasons (in addition to speed and ease) you browned bits and repeat.

should make smashed burgers with commercially ground beef. At least, that’s how it should work, but my results

First, the commercial stuff is ground finer and thus contains have always been inconsistent. Sometimes the burgers

more free myosin, a sticky meat protein that helps the patties

hold together when they’re smashed. (A food processor can’t HOME GROUND PREGROUND S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
produce an evenly fine grind.) Second, there’s no need to be Coarser meat = Finer meat = N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
choosy about the cut of beef since the large surface area of broken burger
deeply browned crust delivers plenty of savory, beefy flavor. cohesive burger CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

cook’s illustrated

4

Press Credentials SMASHED BURGERS

Flattening a ball of ground beef into a thin disk is as simple as it sounds, but the tool you use affects the force SERVES 2 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES
you exert on the meat and, consequently, how uniformly flat the patties will be. Avoid a spatula; its offset
handle makes it difficult to press the meat evenly. Instead, choose an object that allows you to press the meat Do not use a stainless-steel or nonstick skillet here. You
from the top down, such as a small saucepan (grip the sides of the pan), burger press, or 28-ounce can. And can use 85 percent lean ground beef, but 90 percent
don’t worry about oversmashing the meat: Even if you press really hard, the small amount of meat won’t lean will produce a dry burger. Open a window or turn
spread much beyond the diameter of the bun. on your exhaust fan before cooking. Be assertive when
pressing the patties. We strongly prefer Kraft Singles
here for their meltability. To serve four, double the
ingredients for the sauce and burgers and use the same
amount of oil; once the burgers are cooked, transfer
them to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, add-
ing cheese to the first four burgers, and keep warm in a
200-degree oven. Place on buns right before serving.

Sauce

SPATULA SAUCEPAN 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
Indirect pressure Direct pressure 1 tablespoon minced shallot
1½ teaspoons finely chopped dill pickles
have stayed thin and flat against the metal, searing 28-ounce can made fine substitutes for the saucepan;
plus ½ teaspoon brine
and crisping deeply; other times they’ve shriveled and for more information, see “Press Credentials.”) 1½ teaspoons ketchup

cooked up with spotty, disappointing browning—and Knowing that the meat needed to be really ⅛ teaspoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon pepper
a smashed burger without its signature crust is just a anchored to the skillet, I also put even more
Burgers
disk of gray, overcooked meat. mustard behind my pressing motion than I had
2 hamburger buns, toasted if desired
The problem, I realized after closely observing a been, which had the added benefit of maximizing 8 ounces 80 percent lean ground beef
¼ teaspoon vegetable oil
failed attempt, was sticking—or lack thereof. Meat the patty’s brownable surface area. The downside ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, divided

contracts as it cooks, and unless the patties were was that the burger now overhung the bun by a 2 slices American cheese (2 ounces)
Bibb lettuce leaves
uniformly stuck to the metal, they shrank as they good inch or two, which looked silly and made Thinly sliced tomato

seared, going from pancake-thin the whole package awkward to 1. FOR THE SAUCE: Stir all ingredients
together in bowl.
to too thick in seconds. I then THE STICKING POINT eat. So I decided to divide and
understood why many recipes conquer: Instead of making 2. FOR THE BURGERS: Spread 1 tablespoon
sauce on cut side of each bun top. Divide beef into
call for brushing no more than a To flip the burgers, you’ll need to two 4-ounce patties, I split the 4 equal pieces (2 ounces each); form into loose,
few drops of oil onto the skillet’s scrape them loose from the pan— beef into four 2-ounce balls. rough balls (do not compress). Place oil in 12-inch
surface and why the best burg- and that’s a good thing. Sticking Even when flattened as much cast-iron or carbon-steel skillet. Use paper towel to
ers I’d made were the ones that means that the meat has made full as possible, two of these smaller rub oil into bottom of skillet (reserve paper towel).
I’d had to scrape loose from the contact with the pan and browned patties fit in the skillet together, Heat over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. While
pan (see “The Sticking Point”). deeply and uniformly. Burgers and each one extended just past skillet heats, wrap bottom and sides of small sauce-
that don't stick shrink and thicken, the edge of the bun, accentuat- pan with large sheet of aluminum foil, anchoring
Pressing Issues reducing the amount of brownable ing the effect of their jagged, foil on rim, and place large plate next to cooktop.
surface area and thus savory flavor. supercrispy edges in a way that
Clearly I needed to refine my I hadn’t even anticipated. 3. Increase heat to high. When skillet begins to
smashing tactics so that the meat smoke, place 2 balls about 3 inches apart in skillet.
Use bottom of prepared saucepan to firmly smash
stuck more, and I started by The other benefit of double- each ball until 4 to 4½ inches in diameter. Place
saucepan on plate next to cooktop. Sprinkle patties
reconsidering my smashing instrument. When I went stacked patties was that they helped the cheese with ⅛ teaspoon salt and season with pepper. Cook
until at least three-quarters of each patty is no longer
at the beef with a metal spatula (the best tool for between them melt. By the time I topped the pat- pink on top, about 2 minutes (patties will stick to
skillet). Use thin metal spatula to loosen patties from
loosening and flipping the patties), its offset handle ties with lettuce and tomato and capped them with skillet. Flip patties and cook for 15 seconds. Slide skil-
let off heat. Transfer 1 burger to each bun bottom
made it difficult to press with even force. I rummaged the buns (which I toasted and spread with a creamy and top each with 1 slice American cheese. Gently
scrape any browned bits from skillet, use tongs to
around the kitchen for a better device and eventually mayonnaise, shallot, ketchup, and pickle sauce wipe with reserved paper towel, and return skillet to
heat. Repeat with remaining 2 balls and place burgers
found an unlikely alternative: a small saucepan. By ahead of time to make assembly easy), the slice was on top of cheese. Top with lettuce and tomato. Cap
with prepared bun tops. Serve immediately.
gripping the sides of the pan, I was well positioned starting to seep into the meat, acting almost like a

to press straight down on the ball of meat so that it rich, salty cheese sauce. It was precisely the right

spread into a round that made stronger, more uniform effect for this application, and to hammer it home,

contact with the skillet. The raw meat left a bit of a I made sure to use ultramelty Kraft Singles.

mess on the bottom of the saucepan, but I fixed that With that, I had ironed out every detail for my

by wrapping the pan in a large piece of aluminum foil, ultimate smashed burger and could get back to cam-

which made cleanup a cinch. (A burger press and a paigning for Team Crust. Who’s with me?

july & august 2020

5

Malaysian Chicken Satay

Meet your new favorite grilled chicken dish: It’s deeply aromatic, gorgeously charred,
fast to cook, and paired with a peanut sauce you’ll want to eat by the spoonful.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

Imagine the most flavorful bite of grilled chicken spots where it made direct contact with
you’ve ever had: robustly seasoned, gorgeously the grate. The chunks didn’t offer much
charred, and crisp at the edges. That’s what you surface area, and they spun around when
get with every bite of satay, one of the world’s I flipped the kebabs.
proudest examples of meat on a stick and quintes-
Going forward, I cut each thigh into
sential street-food fare all over Southeast Asia. The wide strips that created loads of surface
area for coating with the paste and char-
proteins and flavors vary from region to region, but ring. Then I threaded the strips onto
double skewers so that the meat stretched
the gist is more or less the same across the board: over the grate and stayed secure. I also
brushed both sides of the meat with oil
Small pieces of chicken, pork, beef, goat, or various to prevent the paste from sticking to the
grate. Within 10 minutes, the chicken was
types of seafood are coated in a flavorful liquid or nicely browned with deep char marks—
but its surface was downright mushy.
paste; threaded onto skewers; and grilled hot and

fast and very close to the coals so that almost every

inch of their surfaces singes and picks up savory,

smoky grill flavor. As soon

Whereas Thai as the food comes off the

satay tends to be fire, it’s embellished with a Paste Pointers
relatively sweet and condiment—often a potent
rich, the Malaysian dipping sauce—that ups its After some thought, I recognized the
version skews more already strong appeal.
herbal and savory. culprit: An enzyme in the ginger called
Two of the most famil-
iar versions of chicken satay zingibain had broken down the meat’s

surface proteins. My first instinct was to

are native to Thailand and eliminate the marinating time, since we

Malaysia, but they’re notably different. Whereas Thai know that marinades don’t penetrate

satay tends to be relatively sweet and rich thanks to much beyond the surface of meat anyway.

coconut milk and sugar both in the paste that coats But the mushy texture persisted even

the meat and in the peanut-based dipping sauce, the when I coated the meat just before grill-

Malaysian version skews more herbal and savory. Its ing, so I took a more radical approach and

paste typically includes loads of fragrant lemongrass, microwaved the paste for 1½ minutes

ginger, galangal, garlic, and shallots; dried chiles; before applying it. The heat deactivated

and spices such as turmeric, coriander, and cumin. the enzyme, meaning I could coat every

And while the dipping sauce is also peanut-based, it’s inch of the chicken with the paste with- PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE (TOP), SIMON LONG/GETTY IMAGES (BOTTOM)

usually leaner and less sweet. out compromising its texture. In fact,

That vibrant, herb-forward profile is precisely what Double-skewering the chicken stretches it to create maximum deactivating that enzyme allowed me to
surface area for applying the paste and charring; it also secures the apply the paste ahead of time and store
I find so appealing about the Malaysian kind (called meat during flipping. the chicken in the refrigerator until I was

satay ayam), especially the savory depth that develops

when the aromatics char. But as with any grilled meat, ready to grill.

it can be tricky to deeply brown the exterior before I cut 2 pounds of thighs into chunks, coated A mortar and pestle is my go-to tool for pound-

the interior dries out. I wanted to look carefully at them in a paste that I’d pounded together, and let ing aromatics into a uniform paste, but given the

that challenge and at the prep work: Pounding the the meat marinate for a few hours. Then I skewered large volume required for this recipe, it was easier

large volume of aromatics and spices into a paste in a the chicken and set it over a hot fire so that the meat to use the food processor. I minced the lemongrass

mortar and pestle requires multiple batches, and many would char quickly. And it did—but only in the few and galangal and sliced the ginger into coins before

recipes call for marinating the meat in the paste for

hours. Maybe there were ways to shortcut those steps It’s All About Char

and make this dish. Smoky, crisp char is as integral to satay as the fragrant
paste that coats the meat. The typical grill that a street
In the Dark hawker uses—a shallow, trough-like vessel with a grate
set very close to the coals—maximizes that effect by
Satay ayam can be made with either white or dark bringing the food as close to the fire as possible so that
meat, but I pivoted directly to boneless, skinless the meat cooks quickly and chars deeply.
thighs. Their abundant collagen and fat would keep
the meat succulent over the fire while the surface
browned and crisped.

cook’s illustrated

6

Streamlining and gently simmered the 1½ minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.
Malaysian Satay mixture until it thickened. Transfer bowl to refrigerator and let paste cool while
I seasoned it with salt and had a taste: Fragrant, preparing sauce.
The aromatics and spices nutty, and bright, it was the ideal complement to the
that give Malaysian satay its smoky, savory chicken, and it was so well-balanced 2. FOR THE PEANUT SAUCE: Place peanuts
distinctly fresh, herbal, and that I was tempted to eat it by the spoonful. in now-empty processor and process until coarsely
savory profile set it apart In fact, the whole package is so flavor-packed, flex- ground, about 15 seconds. Heat oil and reserved
from other styles of this dish. ible to prepare, and fast to cook that it’s turned into ⅓ cup paste in medium saucepan over medium-low
Many of these ingredients one of my default grilled chicken dishes. No doubt, heat until fond begins to form on bottom of saucepan
are used in both the paste it will become the same for you. and paste starts to darken, about 5 minutes. Stir in
that coats the meat and the water, tamarind, sugar, and peanuts and bring to boil,
peanut-based dipping sauce GRILLED CHICKEN SATAY scraping up any browned bits. Reduce heat to main-
that accompanies it, so we tain gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally,
simplified the prep work by SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS until sauce is reduced to about 1 cup, 8 to 10 min-
grinding a big batch of the utes. Season with salt to taste, cover, and set aside.
paste in the food processor You will need eight 12-inch metal skewers for this
(or in a mortar and pestle) recipe. For more information on lemongrass, see 3. FOR THE CHICKEN: Add chicken to
and using a portion of it as a page 28. If galangal is unavailable, increase the ginger cooled paste and toss to combine. Thread chicken
fragrant foundation for the to one 1½-inch piece. The aromatic paste can also be onto 4 sets of two 12-inch metal skewers. (Hold
dipping sauce. prepared using a mortar and pestle; see page 30 for 2 skewers 1 inch apart and thread chicken onto
usage tips. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount both skewers at once so strips of chicken are per-
PASTE INGREDIENTS of red pepper flakes. Lime juice can be substituted for pendicular to skewers.) Do not crowd skewers; each
Lemongrass, shallots, garlic, ginger, the tamarind paste. set of skewers should hold 7 to 8 pieces of chicken.
galangal, red pepper flakes, coriander, Transfer kebabs to large plate and refrigerate while
Aromatic Paste preparing grill. (Kebabs can be refrigerated for up
turmeric, cumin, brown sugar to 4 hours.)
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed to bottom 6 inches
grinding them in the food processor with 3 shallots, chopped (⅔ cup) 4A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot-
shallots, garlic, and red pepper flakes (they 3 tablespoons water tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter
mimicked the heat of whole dried chiles but 1 tablespoon vegetable oil mounded with charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When
didn’t require stemming and seeding). Adding 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly
a few tablespoons of water and a little oil to the 3 garlic cloves, chopped over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and
mix helped the paste come together. 1 (1-inch) piece galangal, peeled and minced open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about
1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and sliced into 5 minutes.
Not Your Average Peanut Sauce
⅛-inch-thick coins 4B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to
Next I studied up on the peanut sauce. In addition 2 teaspoons table salt high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 min-
to being leaner and less sweet than Thai satay sauce, 1 teaspoon ground turmeric utes. Turn all burners to medium.
this style is coarser and more rustic; underscored by ½–¾ teaspoon red pepper flakes
a fruity, sour tang from tamarind; packed with many ½ teaspoon ground coriander 5. Clean and oil cooking grate. Brush both sides
of the same aromatics that are in the paste; and often ½ teaspoon ground cumin of kebabs with oil. Place kebabs on grill and cook
briefly simmered to mellow any sharp flavors and (covered if using gas) until browned and char marks
reduce the mixture to a thick consistency. Peanut Sauce appear on first side, about 5 minutes. Using large
metal spatula, gently release chicken from grill; flip;
That overlap between the paste and sauce ingredi- ⅓ cup dry-roasted peanuts and continue to cook until chicken reg-
ents seemed like an obvious place to further streamline 2 tablespoons vegetable oil isters 175 to 180 degrees, 3 to 5 min-
my method, so going forward I simply made a bigger ¾ cup water, plus extra as needed utes longer. Transfer to large platter.
batch of the paste and set aside ⅓ cup of it for the 1 tablespoon tamarind paste Gently reheat peanut sauce, thinning
sauce. The first step was to brown it in a little oil, 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar with extra water, 1 tablespoon at
and after a few tries I discovered that getting it good a time, to desired consistency.
and dark—essentially creating a rich fond—gave the Chicken Serve chicken, passing peanut
final sauce nice savory depth. Then I added an equal sauce separately.
amount of peanuts (dry-roasted) that I’d coarsely 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs,
ground in the food processor, along with water and a trimmed and cut crosswise into 1- to PEANUT SAUCE
tablespoon each of tamarind paste and brown sugar, 1½-inch-wide strips INGREDIENTS
Aromatic paste plus
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D 2 tablespoons vegetable oil tamarind paste, peanuts,
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
1. FOR THE AROMATIC PASTE: Halve lem- brown sugar
CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20 ongrass lengthwise and, using meat pounder, lightly
crush on cutting board to soften. Mince lemongrass
and transfer to food processor. Add shallots, water,
oil, sugar, garlic, galangal, ginger, salt, turmeric, and
pepper flakes and process until uniform paste forms,
about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as
necessary. Measure out ⅓ cup paste and set aside.
Transfer remaining paste to bowl and stir in corian-
der and cumin. Cover bowl and microwave paste for

july & august 2020

7

The Silkiest Risotto

Our formula for the sweetest, freshest corn flavor also turns out
the most luxurious pot of risotto we’ve ever had.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

Iwas deep into recipe development
for corn risotto when I started to
wonder if the dish might be funda-
mentally flawed. There were hurdles
to saturating the creamy rice with corn
flavor that also seemed integral to risotto
cookery. First, heat drives off many of
the compounds we associate with the
vegetable’s fresh, sweet taste. Second,
chicken broth and wine obscure the fla-
vor further. When I tried to overcome
these challenges by adding handfuls of
snappy peak-season kernels to the pot
and infusing the rice with a concentrated
broth I’d made by simmering the spent
cobs, I failed to capture the vibrant,
sweet corn flavor that is the raison d’être
of the whole dish.

Happily, it all worked out in the end,
and even better than I thought it would.
Because along with figuring out how to
make risotto that’s suffused with the bright,
grassy, buttery flavors of high-season corn,
I discovered that corn itself—when treated
just right—can transform your average pot
of risotto into one that’s exceptionally lush
and velvety.

Striking Gold

My framework was our unique risotto

method, which produces rice as creamy as

a conventional approach does but requires

a fraction of the hands-on work. The key

differences are that after sautéing the aro-

matics and Arborio rice and deglazing the

pot with wine, we add almost all the cook-

ing liquid (4 to 5 cups of warm chicken

broth cut with water) up front and simmer

the mixture in a covered pot for the better

part of 20 minutes rather than gradually “All’onda,” or “on the wave,” is the term Italians use to describe the fluid consistency of properly cooked risotto.

ladling the liquid into the rice while stirring

constantly. Both methods cause the rice grains to pot just twice during that first phase. Only during cobs had almost nothing valuable left to offer. And

slough off starch into the cooking liquid and form a the last few minutes of cooking do we add a bit more while there was loads of bright corn flavor inside

viscous gel, giving risotto its trademark creaminess, liquid and stir constantly to enhance the risotto’s the kernels, it was confined to sporadic pops, not PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE

but our method lets agitation from the simmering thick, creamy body. distributed throughout the dish.

liquid do most of the work so that we need to stir the Replacing the chicken-y cooking liquid with So I took a more radical approach and buzzed

homemade corn broth and stirring kernels into the the kernels (3 cups), along with the pulpy,

S T E P - B Y- S T E P V I D E O A N D rice were two of the most common—and unsuc- flavor-packed “milk” I scraped from their cobs, in
NUTRITION INFORMATION cessful—approaches I found in my research. But the blender, adding just enough water to engage
no matter how long I simmered the cobs in water the blades. The result was a sunny puree burst-
CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20 for broth, the liquid tasted dilute because the bare ing with fresh corn flavor—an elixir of sorts that

cook’s illustrated

8





S C I E N C E Liquid Gold CORN PUREE CORN RISOTTO
Adding it toward
Truly vibrant corn flavor is hard to capture in risotto. the end of cooking SERVES 6 TO 8 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR
Kernels add only sporadic pops of sweetness, and preserves the corn’s
broth made from boiled cobs tastes insipid. Serve this risotto with a side salad as a light main
fresh flavor. course, or serve it as an accompaniment to seared
So instead of merely accenting the rice with corn, scallops or shrimp or grilled meat. Our favorite
we made it an integral part of the dish by stirring in Arborio rice is RiceSelect Arborio Rice, and our
a puree made from kernels and the “milk” that we favorite Parmesan cheese is Boar’s Head Parmigiano-
scraped from the cobs. That liquid not only saturated Reggiano. If crème fraîche is unavailable, you can
every bite with corn flavor but also added naturally substitute sour cream. A large ear of corn should
occurring starch from the corn, which, when heated, yield 1 cup of kernels, but if the ears you find are
thickened to a sauce-like consistency that gave the smaller, buy at least six.
risotto exceptionally silky body.
4–6 ears corn, kernels cut from cobs (4 cups),
RAW PUREE COOKED PUREE divided, cobs reserved
Thin and loose Viscous and glossy
5½ cups hot water, divided
I hoped would transform my workaday risotto into Crème de la Crème 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
corn-saturated gold. 1 shallot, minced
In a last-ditch effort to maximize the corn’s pres- 2 teaspoons table salt
Before putting it to work, I strained the puree to ence, I circled back to adding kernels. A cup of 1 garlic clove, minced
remove the tough bits of skin, which left me with them contributed just enough snap, sweetness, ½ teaspoon pepper
about 2 cups of gleaming liquid. Then I picked up and color.
with my risotto method, simmering the rice in a com- 1½ cups Arborio rice
bination of the strained puree and water, the latter of Then I took a closer look at the wine, which is 3 sprigs fresh thyme
which I swapped in for the chicken broth so that the almost as common in risotto as the rice itself but 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)
vegetable’s flavor would stand out as much as possible. tasted harsh against the vegetable’s delicate sweet- ¼ cup crème fraîche
ness. It had to go, but I needed to add something 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
The sun-colored rice certainly looked awash in in its place that would further brighten up the rice. ½ teaspoon lemon juice
corn. And thanks to the natural cornstarch in the The unconventional answer turned out to be crème
puree, which gelled and acted like a silky sauce, the fraîche, a source of much subtler acidity as well as 1. Stand 1 reserved corn cob on end on cutting
risotto was exceptionally lush and glossy (for more fat and rich dairy flavor that complemented the corn board and firmly scrape downward with back of
information, see “Liquid Gold”). But after simmering and enhanced the risotto’s already refined, luxurious butter knife to remove any pulp remaining on cob.
for nearly 20 minutes, the puree had a flat and, well, consistency (see “The Dairy Godmother”). Repeat with remaining reserved cobs. Transfer pulp
cooked flavor. to blender. Add 3 cups corn kernels.
I stirred in a generous scoop before serving,
That test turned out to be my crash course in along with grated Parmesan, chopped chives, and a 2. Process corn and pulp on low speed until
corn flavor compounds: Many of these compounds splash of lemon juice just to tease out the cultured thick puree forms, about 30 seconds. With blender
develop only after some cooking; others, including dairy’s tang a bit more. The result was startlingly running, add ½ cup hot water. Increase speed to
the grassy, fresh-tasting ones that I was going for, good—a next-level kind of risotto, distinct and high and continue to process until smooth, about
are volatile and vanish when heated. If I wanted to flavorful enough to stand on its own but restrained 3 minutes longer. Pour puree into fine-mesh
preserve fresh corn flavor, I had to wait until the rice enough to accompany almost anything. My inauspi- strainer set over large liquid measuring cup or bowl.
was nearly done before adding the puree. This change cious start was a distant memory, and this dish was Using back of ladle or rubber spatula, push puree
altered the whole dish, saturating the risotto with the shaping up to be the raison d’être of many summer through strainer, extracting as much liquid as pos-
corn’s bright flavor. dinners to come. sible (you should have about 2 cups corn liquid).
Discard solids.
A TOUCH INGREDIENT SPOTLIGHT
OF TANG 3. Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium
Crème fraîche The Dairy Godmother TOO SHARP heat. Add shallot, salt, garlic, and pepper and cook,
White wine stirring frequently, until softened but not browned,
No pot of risotto is complete without a glug of wine to about 1 minute. Add rice and thyme sprigs and
brighten up the starchy rice—or so we assumed. But in our cook, stirring frequently, until grains are translucent
Corn Risotto, the wine’s sharp, acidic punch overwhelmed the around edges, 2 to 3 minutes.
vegetable’s delicate sweetness, so we left it out and instead
finished the dish with crème fraîche (plus a splash of lemon 4. Stir in 4½ cups hot water. Reduce heat to
juice). The cultured dairy contributed some acidity but far less medium-low, cover, and simmer until liquid is
than the wine, and its dairy flavor complemented the corn. slightly thickened and rice is just al dente, 16 to
Plus, its fat enhanced the risotto’s ultracreamy consistency. 19 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.

5. Add corn liquid and continue to cook, stir-
ring gently and constantly, until risotto is creamy
and thickened but not sticky, about 3 minutes
longer (risotto will continue to thicken as it sits).
Stir in Parmesan and remaining 1 cup corn kernels.
Cover pot and let stand off heat for 5 minutes. Stir
in crème fraîche, chives, and lemon juice. Discard
thyme sprigs and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Adjust consistency with remaining ½ cup hot water
as needed. Serve immediately.

july & august 2020

9

Moroccan Fish Tagine

With its vibrant colors, punchy flavors, and straightforward technique,
a tagine is just the thing to perk up mild white fish.

j BY ANNIE PETITO k

A tagine is a North African It was a decent start: The carrot, onion,
earthenware pot with a tall, and pepper were soft and flavorful, but the
cone-shaped lid; it’s also the cod, well seasoned on the outside, was bland
name for the wonderfully aro- within since marinades don’t penetrate far

matic and complex fish, meat, or vegetable beyond the surface. It was also overcooked.

stews that are cooked inside it. But you What’s more, reserving the olives and lemon

don’t need to own this specialty vessel to until the end was a mistake. Without time for

enjoy the dish, because these days the next their flavors to meld with the other ingredi-

best thing—a Dutch oven with a tight-fit- ents, they seemed like an afterthought.

ting lid—is also commonly used. I set out I made a few tweaks. First, before coating

to create a light, fresh-tasting fish tagine. the cod chunks in the chermoula, I tossed

The type of fish used in a tagine depends them with salt and let them sit while

on the region and its available seafood, I prepped the rest of the ingredients. The

though white-fleshed fillets are common in salt would season the flesh and help keep it

Morocco. Regardless of the type of fish, the moist. The other change: adding the olives

fillets are typically marinated in chermoula, and preserved lemon earlier so that they

an extraordinarily flavorful mixture of fresh could soften and mingle in the broth.

herbs, garlic, and heady spices that’s loos- Both were good moves. The lemon

ened with olive oil and lemon juice (see and olives were now more integrated, as

“Herb Paste, Meet Spice Paste”). evidenced by the lively, tangy broth. The

To prepare a fish tagine, the bottom of fish was well seasoned and held on to

the pot is lined with vegetables—often bell more moisture. And yet, it was still tough.

peppers, onions, carrots, and tomatoes— I needed to cook it more gently.

and the chermoula-coated fish is arranged

on top before the lid is added and the Gettin’ Steamy

assembly is moved to the stovetop or oven. I’ve had good luck in the past with other

At some point in the process, two signature seafood recipes with heating the cooking

Moroccan flavorings—pungent, floral pre- liquid, adding seafood, covering the pot,

served lemons and tangy green olives—are and removing it from the burner, allow-

incorporated (see “Power Couple: Olives ing residual heat to gently cook the flesh

and Preserved Lemons”). Without any addi- through. But at the point when I was adding

tional liquid in the steamy pot, the fish and Our tagine is deeply scented with garlic and spices; tangy green olives and the fish, the pot was essentially dry, so there

vegetables slowly turn soft and tender, and floral preserved lemons offer lively bright notes. wouldn’t be enough steam. How about a

their juices meld to create a tangy, garlicky, hybrid approach?

herbal broth. It’s just the thing to serve with warm than the delicate fish. To facilitate staggered cooking, For my next batch, I added the cod and cooked

flatbread or spoon atop a pile of fluffy couscous. I opted to work on the stovetop. I glossed a Dutch the pot as before, but once the cod had released

oven with olive oil and then sautéed a colorful mix enough liquid to be actively simmering (meaning

Building a Base of sliced grassy green bell pepper, savory onion, and plenty of steam was being generated),

I chose cod for my tagine because it has a firm yet sweet carrot. Once the vegetables were just softened, I took the pot off the heat. Within

delicate meatiness and is widely available. I divided the I poured in a can of diced tomatoes and

fillets into substantial chunks to make serving easy and layered the fish on top. I resisted adding PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY

then proceeded with my chermoula, buzzing fresh more liquid since I knew that the fish and Herb Paste, Meet Spice Paste

cilantro, garlic, and lemon juice with cumin, paprika, vegetables would eventually give up some The Moroccan condiment known as chermoula

and cayenne in the food processor. Finally, I stirred of their juices. After about 10 minutes of (sometimes spelled charmoula) is similar to pesto

in a couple of tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil by covered cooking, I lifted the lid, delighted or salsa verde in that fresh herbs, extra-virgin

hand since processing can make the oil taste bitter. to find that my restraint had paid off: A shal- olive oil, garlic, and lemon make up its base.

Gently tossing the fish in the paste gave it a gorgeous low layer of richly scented broth bubbled at But chermoula also includes gutsy spices such

orange-red, herb-flecked coat that would permeate the bottom of the pot. I sprinkled a handful as cumin, paprika, and cayenne pepper, giving

the dish with its flavors. of quartered green olives and a couple of it an altogether different (and utterly delicious)

Next I turned to the vegetables. I decided to give tablespoons of finely chopped preserved personality that’s herbal and fresh as well as

them a head start since they would take longer to cook lemon over the top and served the tagine. warm and earthy.

cook’s illustrated

10

5 minutes, the pieces of cod were just opaque, Power Couple:
tender, and flaky. After a final sprinkling of fresh Olives and Preserved Lemons
cilantro, this beauty of a dish—with its layered,
complex flavors—was complete. Our tagine gets its fresh herb and heady spice
flavors from the chermoula that coats the
MOROCCAN FISH TAGINE fish (see “Herb Paste, Meet Spice Paste”),
but its bright top notes are provided by the
SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES heavy-hitting combination of preserved
lemon and green olives. Preserved lemons
You can substitute red snapper or haddock for the are a stalwart of North African cuisines,
cod as long as the fillets are 1 to 1½ inches thick. made by curing the fruit with salt to soften
Picholine or Cerignola olives work well in this recipe. the rind and imbue it with an intensely citrusy,
Serve this dish with flatbread, couscous, or rice. Our floral, and pungent flavor through fermentation. The lemons are sliced or chopped and added to
recipe for Moroccan Fish Tagine for Two is avail- recipes, rind and all. Green olives, such as the picholine variety that is commonly used in Morocco,
able for free for four months at CooksIllustrated. complement the lemon with briny tang and a meaty bite.
com/aug20.
TWO WAYS TO MAKE PRESERVED LEMONS
1½ pounds skinless cod fillets (1 to 1½ inches
thick), cut into 1½- to 2-inch pieces You can buy preserved lemons at well-stocked grocery stores, Middle Eastern markets, specialty
food stores, or online, but they are also easy to make at home, whether you follow our traditional or
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided speedy approach (the latter offers a texture similar to that of traditional preserved lemons but lacks
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, plus ¼ cup chopped the fermented complexity that the long-cured type has). In addition to tagines, preserved lemons also
4 garlic cloves, peeled bring brightness and depth to roasted vegetables, vinaigrettes, mayonnaise, and pan sauces.
1¼ teaspoons ground cumin
1¼ teaspoons paprika PRESERVED LEMONS
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1½ tablespoons lemon juice MAKES ¾ CUP
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS 7 TO 9 WEEKS CURING
1 onion, halved and sliced through
Don’t substitute table salt for the kosher salt. We
root end ¼ inch thick prefer to prepare this recipe with Meyer lemons,
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, but regular lemons can be substituted, if desired.
If using regular lemons, choose smaller ones with
and cut into ¼-inch strips thin skin (thin-skinned lemons will yield to gentle
1 carrot, peeled and sliced on bias ¼ inch thick pressure). Because regular lemons have thicker
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes peels, they may take two to four weeks longer to
⅓ cup pitted green olives, quartered lengthwise soften. –Suzannah McFerran
2 tablespoons finely chopped preserved lemon
12 Meyer lemons (4 whole, scrubbed Place 2 tablespoons of salt in the cavity of each
1. Place cod in bowl and toss with ½ teaspoon and dried, 8 juiced to yield 1½ cups), lemon and gently rub the cut sides together.
salt. Set aside. plus extra juice if needed
24-HOUR PRESERVED LEMONS
2. Pulse cilantro leaves, garlic, cumin, paprika, and ½ cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt
cayenne in food processor until cilantro and garlic MAKES 1 CUP
are finely chopped, about 12 pulses. Add lemon 1. Cut whole lemons lengthwise into quarters, TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 24 HOURS CURING
juice and pulse briefly to combine. Transfer mixture stopping 1 inch from bottom so lemons stay
to small bowl and stir in 2 tablespoons oil. Set aside. intact at base. It’s important to slice the lemons thin. Sugar
offsets the acidity and bitterness of the fruit, and
3. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in large Dutch oven 2. Working with 1 lemon at a time, hold olive oil helps soften the pith.
over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, lemon over medium bowl and pour 2 table-
bell pepper, carrot, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt spoons salt into cavity of lemon. Gently rub cut –Andrew Janjigian
and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 5 to surfaces of lemon together, then place in clean
7 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and their juice, olives, 1-quart jar. Repeat with remaining whole lemons 3 lemons, rinsed
and preserved lemon. Spread mixture in even layer and salt. Add any accumulated salt and juice in 3 tablespoons sugar
on bottom of pot. bowl to jar. 3 tablespoons table salt
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4. Toss cod with cilantro mixture until evenly 3. Pour lemon juice into jar and press gently
coated, then arrange cod over vegetables in single to submerge lemons. (Add more lemon juice to 1. Slice lemons thin crosswise.
layer. Cover and cook until cod starts to turn opaque jar, if needed, to cover lemons completely.) Cover 2. Toss lemons with sugar and salt in bowl.
and juices released from cod are simmering vigor- jar tightly with lid and shake. Refrigerate lemons Stir in oil.
ously, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let until glossy and softened, 6 to 8 weeks, shaking 3. Transfer lemons to bowl or pack into jar,
stand, covered, until cod is opaque and just cooked jar once per day for first 4 days to redistribute salt cover, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up
through (cod should register 140 degrees), 3 to and juice. (Preserved lemons can be refrigerated to 2 weeks.
5 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and serve. for up to 6 months.) 4. To use, chop or mince lemon as desired.

S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D 4. To use, cut off desired amount of preserved
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N lemon and slice, chop, or mince as desired.

CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

july & august 2020

11

Spanish Migas

This hearty one-dish meal takes leftover bread from stale to sublime.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

L ike most bakers, I typically have a hunk Frying the bread for this hash infuses it with the heady 1. Whisk water, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
(or three) of stale bread lying around my flavors of chorizo, bacon, garlic, and paprika. paprika in large bowl until salt is dissolved. Add
kitchen. As such, I am well acquainted with bread and knead gently with your hands until liquid
the satisfaction that comes from breathing SPANISH MIGAS WITH FRIED EGGS is absorbed and half of bread has broken down into
new life into a hardened loaf. A prime example is the smaller pieces. If bread does not break down, add
outstanding Spanish dish known as migas (“migas” SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS extra water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and continue to
means “crumbs”). It involves moistening crumbs knead until you have mix of bigger and smaller pieces
(and larger pieces of bread) with water and then fry- Fresh or stale bread can be used here. Buy fully interspersed with a few crumbs. Set aside. Crack
ing them in fat along with lots of garlic, chorizo, and cooked Spanish-style chorizo that is somewhat soft; 3 eggs into small bowl. Repeat with remaining 3 eggs
smoked paprika. Some of the water evaporates as the if you can’t find it, substitute linguica. Anaheim chiles and second small bowl. Set aside eggs.
bread sizzles, but much of it is pushed into the bread can be used in place of the Cubanelles. Serve as a
starch, creating crisp and chewy morsels imbued hearty breakfast or brunch or with a salad for dinner. 2. Heat oil, chorizo, bacon, and garlic in 12-inch
with the flavors of garlic and pork. It’s great stuff. nonstick or carbon-steel skillet over medium heat, stir-
⅓ cup water, plus extra as needed ring frequently, until bacon fat is rendered and bacon is
Some cooks include a second pork product such 1 teaspoon table salt, divided just beginning to crisp at edges, 6 to 8 minutes. Using
as pork belly, bacon, or Spanish ham for depth (and 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, divided slotted spoon, transfer chorizo and bacon to medium
more fat); others fold in produce like peppers, hearty 5 (¾-inch-thick) slices rustic, crusty bread bowl; discard garlic. Reserve 2 tablespoons fat. Pour
greens, mushrooms, or even grapes. The mix-ins are remaining fat over bread mixture and toss to com-
cut into bite-size pieces and tossed with the bread (9 ounces), bottom crust removed, cut into bine. Add bread to now-empty skillet and cook over
to create a hearty hash that can be served as tapas or ½- to ¾-inch cubes (5 cups) medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until smallest
topped with eggs for breakfast, brunch, or dinner. 6 large eggs pieces are browned and crisp throughout and larger
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil pieces are crisp on exterior and moist within, 12 to
Making great migas is primarily about getting the 6 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, halved 15 minutes. Return bread mixture to now-empty bowl.
bread right: The proper texture, which I fondly refer lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick
to as “crunchewy,” is best accomplished by starting 2 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces 3. Add 1 tablespoon reserved fat, Cubanelle and
with a rustic, crusty loaf; removing the thick bot- 4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled bell peppers, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and remain-
tom crust; and soaking it in water. I came up with 2 Cubanelle peppers, stemmed, seeded, ing ½ teaspoon paprika to now-empty skillet. Cook
a method that works with bread of any degree of and cut into ½-inch pieces over high heat until peppers are softened and slightly
freshness: Begin with ⅓ cup of water for 5 cups of 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, blistered, 3 to 5 minutes. Return chorizo mixture
cubed bread, and then gently knead until the pieces and cut into ½-inch pieces to skillet with peppers and cook, stirring frequently,
break down. If the bread resists falling apart, add ½ teaspoon sherry vinegar until heated through, about 30 seconds. Sprinkle with
water 1 tablespoon at a time until it yields. 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley, divided vinegar and 2 teaspoons parsley and toss to combine.
Transfer to bowl with bread and toss to combine.
With the bread ready, I fried slices of soft Transfer to wide serving bowl.
Spanish-style chorizo in olive oil (harder, more aged
sausage dried out too quickly during frying) with 4. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon reserved fat in
smashed whole garlic cloves. I included thick-cut now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shim-
bacon to provide a layer of smokiness as well as extra mering. Swirl to coat skillet. Working quickly, pour
fat for frying the bread, which I did after removing 1 bowl of eggs in 1 side of skillet and second bowl
the meat and garlic from the pan with a slotted of eggs in other side. Cover and cook for 1 minute.
spoon. Once the pieces were golden and crisp on the Remove skillet from heat and let sit, covered, for 15 to
outside, I sautéed red bell and Cubanelle peppers. 45 seconds for runny yolks (white around edge of yolk
The former offered sweetness, and the latter pro- will be barely opaque), 45 to 60 seconds for soft but
vided a slight bitter counterpoint. Once I returned set yolks, and about 2 minutes for medium-set yolks.
the meat to the pan, I drizzled on sherry vinegar Transfer eggs to top of migas, sprinkle with remaining
to help balance the richness and added a colorful 1 teaspoon parsley, and serve.
shower of minced parsley.
Getting to “Crunchewy”
Finally, I topped the migas with fried eggs cooked
sunny-side up so that the softly set yolks would spill Properly hydrating the bread (either fresh
onto the porky, garlicky bread. Not a bad way to use or stale loaves) for migas ensures the proper
up a leftover loaf. crunchy-chewy texture once it is fried.
Add ⅓ cup of water to 5 cups of bread
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D cubes, and then knead in more as needed
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N until you have a mix of bigger and smaller
pieces interspersed with a few crumbs.
CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

cook’s illustrated

12

The Fastest Fresh Tomato Sauce

Your best bet for pasta sauce on the fly? The small but mighty cherry tomato.

j BY STEVE DUNN k

Savory-sweet, juicy cherry tomatoes are typ- PASTA WITH BURST CHERRY TOMATO A sprinkling of basil and a crispy, lemony gremolata-
ically enjoyed as a snack or in salads. But SAUCE AND FRIED CAPER CRUMBS inspired topping make this dish company worthy.
they have another application that may
surprise you: They’re the perfect choice SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES stir to combine. Cover and increase heat to medium-
for a quick fresh tomato sauce. You can toss these high. Cook, without stirring, for 10 minutes.
little fruits directly into the pan without any prep, Be sure to use cherry tomatoes; grape tomatoes won’t
and they don’t need lengthy cooking to concen- break down as much and will produce a drier sauce. 3. Meanwhile, add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to
trate their flavor or thicken into a sauce. That’s Our topping contributes crunch and depth, but you boiling water. Cook, stirring often, until al dente.
because they’re more flavorful than the bigger vari- can substitute 1 cup (2 ounces) of grated Parmesan Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and
eties conventionally used for sauce and have more cheese, if desired. For a spicier dish, use the larger return it to pot. Off heat, add butter and tomato
sugar in their flesh and more savory glutamates in amount of red pepper flakes. mixture to pasta and stir gently until oil, butter, and
their gel. They’re also full of soluble pectin that tomato juices combine to form light sauce, about
readily forms a pasta-coating consistency. Topping 15 seconds. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking
water as needed, adding 2 tablespoons at a time. Stir
To make my own version of the sauce, I sautéed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in basil and season with salt to taste. Serve, passing
2 pounds of tomatoes (enough for 12 ounces of ¼ cup capers, rinsed and patted dry topping separately.
pasta) in olive oil in a skillet with slivered garlic. In just 1 anchovy fillet, rinsed, patted dry, and minced
10 minutes, the tomatoes had melted into a lush, silky ½ cup panko bread crumbs Botanically Engineered Thin skin that
mixture that tasted remarkably complex. There was ⅛ teaspoon table salt for Sauce on the Fly softens readily
just one issue: I didn’t want all the cherry tomatoes ⅛ teaspoon pepper
to burst and disappear into the sauce. Part of the fun ¼ cup minced fresh parsley Many of the same qualities Lots of
of eating these diminutive spheres is how they pop 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest that make cherry tomatoes glutamate-
in your mouth, releasing a flood of juices. To ensure so enjoyable packed gel
that some of the tomatoes stayed whole, I tried add- Pasta to eat raw
ing them in stages, but the delayed additions never make them
softened enough and tasted raw. Smashing some of ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil perfect for a
the fruits early to force them to release their juices left 2 garlic cloves, sliced thin quick sauce.
too many annoying, undercooked skins. 2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY 2 pounds cherry tomatoes More sauce-ready
Then the solution occurred to me: Instead of sau- 1½ teaspoons table salt, plus salt for soluble pectin
téing the tomatoes in a skillet, I would move them to
a saucepan. Thanks to this pan’s smaller circumfer- cooking pasta Juicy, supersweet
ence, only some of the tomatoes would be in direct ¼ teaspoon sugar flesh
contact with the pan bottom, while others would ⅛–¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
rest on top, protected from the heat. Covering the 12 ounces penne rigate, orecchiette, campanelle, S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
saucepan allowed this upper layer to cook gently in N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
the steam of the released juices, remaining plump or other short pasta
and ready to pop. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

With my cooking method nailed down, I did a and chilled
quick test, subbing grape tomatoes for cherry. I was 1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn if large
a little surprised to find that these didn’t work nearly
as well, producing a sauce that was thin and dry. 1. FOR THE TOPPING: Heat oil in 10-inch
Turns out grape tomatoes aren’t as juicy as cherry skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add
tomatoes, and their pectin takes longer to cook capers and anchovy and cook, stirring frequently, until
down and dissolve. capers have darkened and shrunk, 3 to 4 minutes.
Using slotted spoon, transfer caper mixture to paper
All that was left was to tweak the sauce’s flavor, towel–lined plate; set aside. Leave oil in skillet and
which didn’t need much: Anchovies added depth return skillet to medium heat. Add panko, salt, and
while salt, a touch of red pepper flakes, and sugar pepper to skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until
brought everything into balance. I also tossed a panko is golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer
couple of pats of butter into the cooked pasta when panko to medium bowl. Stir in parsley, lemon zest,
I combined it with the sauce, which gave the whole and reserved caper mixture.
thing a light, creamy richness that still allowed
the fresh tomato flavor to shine. Fresh basil and a 2. FOR THE PASTA: Bring 4 quarts water to boil
gremolata-inspired topping transformed this dish into in large pot. While water is coming to boil, heat oil, gar-
something elegant and special. lic, and anchovies in large saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until anchovies break down
and garlic is lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add
tomatoes, salt, sugar, and pepper flakes to saucepan and

july & august 2020

13

Showstopper Melon Salads

Pairing sweet, luscious melon with salty, savory elements is nothing new—
it’s how you do it that can make all the difference.

j BY ANDREA GEARY k

Red onion; Aleppo pepper;
chopped parsley and mint; and
briny, buttery-rich oil-cured olives
give this salad Mediterranean flair.

Icrave melon in the summer, and it turns out STRATEG I E S F OR N EXT-LEVE L M E LON SALAD
the urge might be physiological: We’re drawn
to water-rich foods in hot weather because In addition to incorporating salty and savory elements into my melon salads, I came up with these best practices.
they keep us hydrated and because they require
less energy to digest than high-fat or high-protein Keep it Secondary Leave the melon large. Incorporate richness.
foods. But after weeks of melon wedges, slices, Ingredients Fewer cut surfaces Nuts, seeds, cheese—
cubes, and balls, I find myself wanting something means less liquid even olives—all work
more exciting, with a bit more texture and even melon-focused. will be exuded well to balance the
salty, savory flavors. Enter melon salad. to water down leanness of the fruit.
Other sweet, juicy the dressing.
At its root, it’s a pretty old concept. Greeks have Larger pieces Add lots of herbal essence.
been combining watermelon with salty feta cheese fruits will only Melon also accentuate the The fresh, grassy, aromatic flavors
for centuries or perhaps millennia, and the pairing is compete with the contrast between complement the sweet fruit.
genius: The sweetness of the fruit balances the brininess the melon’s
of the cheese, and the salty, crumbly cheese makes the melon, while additions well-seasoned Make an oil-free, citrusy dressing. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN
melon seem even sweeter and more explosively juicy. exterior and Oil just slips off the melon’s wet
such as tomatoes and cucumbers sweet, juicy interior. surface. Instead, use a dressing
Somewhere along the line, cooks began to riff off that’s bright, intense, and oil-free.
this concept, pairing melon with all sorts of other are distractingly similar to under- I prefer the fruitiness
salty, savory, and/or creamy ingredients and drizzling of lemon or lime
the whole thing with oil and vinegar. But these inno- ripe melon and should juice to vin-
vations can be problematic. Often the components egar, which
don’t fully meld—or, worse, they overpower the also be avoided. If the can taste a
melon—and the dressing can taste watered-down. little harsh
melon lacks sweetness, with melon.
My mission was to rethink melon salad to make
it more cohesive and balanced and to devise some give it a boost with a bit
enticing combinations that could be eaten as refresh-
ing side dishes. of sugar or honey.

Keep secondary components Add some heat.
small. Chunky pieces fall to the A touch of fresh or
bottom of the bowl, but smaller dried chile adds an
ones cling to the melon and hold interesting dimen-
on to the dressing while they do sion to ripe melon,
so, ensuring that each piece is which—though lus-
coated with flavor and texture. cious—lacks zing.

cook’s illustrated

14

Shallot, garlic, Thai chiles, and fish sauce make a savory and salty
dressing for sweet honeydew in this Thai-inspired combo. Cilantro,
mint, and peanuts complete the dish.

1 honeydew melon, peeled, halved, seeded,
and cut into 1½-inch chunks (6 cups)

5 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided
5 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, divided
5 tablespoons salted dry-roasted peanuts,

chopped fine, divided

1. Combine lime juice and shallot in large bowl.
Using mortar and pestle (or on cutting board using
flat side of chef’s knife), mash Thai chiles, garlic, and
salt to fine paste. Add chile paste; sugar, if using; and
fish sauce to lime juice mixture and stir to combine.

2. Add honeydew, ¼ cup cilantro, ¼ cup mint,
and ¼ cup peanuts and toss to combine. Transfer
to shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle with remaining
1 tablespoon cilantro, remaining 1 tablespoon mint,
and remaining 1 tablespoon peanuts and serve.

WATERMELON SALAD WITH COTIJA
AND SERRANO CHILES

SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES

In this twist on watermelon and feta salad, lime Taste your melon as you cut it up: If it’s very sweet,
juice balances the sweet melon, and cotija cheese omit the sugar; if it’s less sweet, add the sugar to
and pepitas provide richness. Serrano chiles add zip the dressing. See page 29 for tips on prepping
while scallions and cilantro contribute savoriness. the melon. Jalapeños can be substituted for the
serranos. If cotija cheese is unavailable, substitute
feta cheese. This salad makes a light and refreshing
accompaniment to grilled meat or fish.

CANTALOUPE SALAD WITH OLIVES Combine onion and lemon juice in large bowl ⅓ cup lime juice (3 limes)
AND RED ONION and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in honey, if using; 2 scallions, white and green parts separated
Aleppo pepper; and salt. Add cantaloupe, ¼ cup
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES parsley, ¼ cup mint, and 3 tablespoons olives and and sliced thin
stir to combine. Transfer to shallow serving bowl. 2 serrano chiles, stemmed, halved, seeded,
Taste your melon as you cut it up: If it’s very sweet, Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon parsley,
omit the honey; if it’s less sweet, add the honey remaining 1 tablespoon mint, and remaining 1 table- and sliced thin crosswise
to the dressing. See page 29 for tips on prepping spoon olives and serve. 1–2 tablespoons sugar (optional)
the melon. We like the gentle heat and raisiny ¾ teaspoon table salt
sweetness of ground dried Aleppo pepper here, HONEYDEW SALAD WITH PEANUTS
but if it’s unavailable, substitute ¾ teaspoon of AND LIME 6 cups 1½-inch seedless watermelon pieces
paprika and ¼ teaspoon of cayenne pepper. This 3 ounces cotija cheese, crumbled (¾ cup),
salad makes a light and refreshing accompaniment SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES
to grilled meat or fish and couscous or steamed divided
white rice. Taste your melon as you cut it up: If it’s very sweet, 5 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided
omit the sugar; if it’s less sweet, add the sugar to the 5 tablespoons chopped roasted, salted pepitas,
½ red onion, sliced thin dressing. See page 29 for tips on prepping the melon.
⅓ cup lemon juice (2 lemons) This salad makes a light and refreshing accompani- divided
1–3 teaspoons honey (optional) ment to grilled meat or fish and steamed white rice.
1 teaspoon ground dried Aleppo pepper Combine lime juice, scallion whites, and serranos
½ teaspoon table salt ⅓ cup lime juice (3 limes) in large bowl and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in sugar,
1 cantaloupe, peeled, halved, seeded, 1 shallot, sliced thin if using, and salt. Add watermelon, ½ cup cotija,
2 Thai chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced ¼ cup cilantro, ¼ cup pepitas, and scallion greens
and cut into 1½-inch chunks (6 cups) 1 garlic clove, minced and stir to combine. Transfer to shallow serving bowl.
5 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, divided ½ teaspoon table salt Sprinkle with remaining ¼ cup cotija, remaining
5 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, divided 1–2 tablespoons sugar (optional) 1 tablespoon cilantro, and remaining 1 tablespoon
¼ cup finely chopped pitted oil-cured olives, 1 tablespoon fish sauce pepitas and serve.

divided S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N

CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

july & august 2020

15

How to Make Pro-Caliber Ice Cream

Ice cream distills some of the most complex culinary science into cold, creamy

magic, but it’s actually simple to make yourself. Here’s everything you need to

know to get churning. BY ELIZABETH BOMZE AND DAN SOUZA

When we think about ice cream, we usually think about flavors such as chocolate, vanilla, coffee, and Fast Freezing = Smooth Results
strawberry. But what makes or breaks great ice cream is texture—how smooth, cold, and refreshing it feels
in your mouth. Getting it right hinges on two main factors: controlling the water in the base and freezing that There are three basic steps to freezing the base as
base as quickly as possible. quickly as possible, which ensures small (less than
50 microns), imperceptible ice crystals.
MIX UP JUST THE RIGHT BASE
CHILL: To shorten the time it takes for the base to
Ice cream is mostly water, which freezes during the churning process and thickens the base so that it becomes freeze, it’s important to chill it down to 40 degrees—
solid and refreshing. The key is controlling the size of the ice crystals that form as the water freezes and that when it’s cold but still fluid—before it goes into the ice
can continue to grow over time in the freezer. When ice cream is grainy, it’s because the crystals are noticeably cream maker. (Chill the ice cream maker’s canister for
large, while smooth, high-quality ice cream contains ice crystals so small that our tongues can’t detect them. at least 24 hours before adding the base and churning
so that it’s as cold as possible.)
Each ingredient in the base influences the properties of the water and the size—and our perception—of the
ice crystals. Classic formulations include just heavy cream, milk, and sugar. (Adding egg yolks produces a rich, CHURN: Churning partially freezes the base and
custard-style ice cream; omitting them, as we do here, yields a cleaner-tasting base that allows other flavors incorporates air into it through the whipping action of
to shine.) Our base also includes corn syrup, nonfat milk powder, and cornstarch—unusual additions that are the paddle (also called a dasher blade). The process
essential to our ice cream’s smooth consistency. Here’s a breakdown of each ingredient’s role in our formula. takes about 30 minutes; you’ll know it’s time to stop
when the base is the texture of thick soft serve and
SWEETENERS FAT registers 21 degrees.
Sugar sweetens the base, but it also ensures that More fat (heavy cream and whole milk) in the base
the ice cream is soft enough to scoop straight out means there’s less water to freeze, but too much 40 Chilled
of the freezer by keeping a portion of the water fat can form flecks of butter during churning; it can (40 degrees)
in the mix from turning to ice. Adding just the also dull the ice cream’s cold, refreshing mouthfeel.
right amount of sugar is crucial to achieving that Fourteen percent fat is considered the sweet spot. 30
properly dense but still scoopable consistency. Fat also lubricates the tongue so that ice crystals
aren’t as noticeable, and it solidifies when chilled, Churned
NOT ENOUGH trapping air during churning. 20 (21 degrees)
SUGAR DEGREES (F)
Rock-hard STABILIZERS 10 ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
These ingredients increase the viscosity of the
base, so there’s less chance for ice crystals to clus- Hardened
ter into larger, more perceptible crystals. (0 degrees)

30 60 90 120
MINUTES
Nonfat dry milk powder not only replaces liquid
milk in the mix, effectively decreasing the amount HARDEN: After churning, about 50 percent of the
of freezable water, but also traps some of the water is frozen; the rest of the freezing and harden-
water so that it can’t freeze, minimizing ice crystals. ing happens when the base is packed into a container
and left in the freezer for at least a couple of hours.

Cornstarch also traps water so that it can’t freeze.

TOO MUCH OUR FAVORITE HERE’S THE SCOOP
SUGAR ICE CREAM MAKER ZEROLL Original Ice Cream Scoop
Soupy CUISINART Frozen Yogurt, PRICE: $18.44
Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker COMMENTS: Its gently curved bowl
Corn syrup is a less sweet form of sugar, so it PRICE: $53.99 forms perfect round orbs, and as
provides the textural benefits of sugar without COMMENTS: Inexpensive, your hand warms the heat-conductive
making the ice cream sweeter than we want. lightweight, and simple to handle, the metal slightly melts the
use, this canister-style model ice cream or sorbet so that
churns out velvety ice cream it’s particularly easy
with the push of a button. to scoop.

cook’s illustrated

16

Before You Begin SWEET CREAM ICE CREAM

This recipe can be used to make sweet SERVES 8 (MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART) TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES, PLUS 9 HOURS CHILLING

cream ice cream or used as a base for making ½ cup plus ⅓ cup nonfat dry milk powder 2. Meanwhile, whisk cornstarch and remaining ¼ cup

other flavors (see recipes below). If using a ⅓ cup (2⅓ ounces) sugar milk together in small bowl.

canister-style ice cream maker, be sure to ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 3. Reduce heat to medium. Whisk cornstarch mixture to

freeze the empty canister for at least 24 hours 1½ cups whole milk, divided recombine, then whisk into milk mixture in saucepan. Cook,

(or preferably 48 hours) before churning. For 1½ cups heavy cream constantly scraping bottom of saucepan with rubber spatula,

self-refrigerating ice cream makers, prechill ¼ cup corn syrup until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Immediately pour

the canister by running the maker for 5 to 5 teaspoons cornstarch ice cream base through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl;

10 minutes before pouring in the base. We let cool until no longer steaming, about 20 minutes. Cover

prefer Carnation Instant Nonfat Dry Milk. Some 1. Whisk milk powder, sugar, and salt together in small bowl, transfer to refrigerator, and chill until base registers

base may stick to the bottom of the saucepan bowl. Whisk 1¼ cups milk, cream, corn syrup, and sugar 40 degrees, at least 6 hours. (Base can be chilled overnight.

when pouring it into the strainer in step 3; simply mixture together in large saucepan. Cook over medium-high Alternatively, base can be chilled to 40 degrees in about

scrape it into the strainer with the rest of the heat, whisking frequently to dissolve sugar and break up any 1½ hours by placing bowl in ice bath of 6 cups ice, ½ cup

base and press it through with a spatula. This ice clumps, until tiny bubbles form around edge of saucepan and water, and ⅓ cup table salt.)

cream can be frozen for up to five days. mixture registers 190 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes. 4. Churn base in ice cream maker until mixture resembles

thick soft serve and registers 21 degrees, about 30 minutes.

FOUR FAVORITE FLAVORS Transfer ice cream to airtight container, pressing firmly to
remove air pockets; freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Serve.

VANILLA BEAN THE SUNDAE BAR

In step 1, process milk with 1 vanilla bean, cut in half HOMEMADE CHOCOLATE
lengthwise and then cut crosswise into 3 pieces, in MAGIC SHELL
blender on high speed until vanilla bean is reduced to
specks, about 1 minute. Do not strain. Proceed with MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES,
recipe, whisking vanilla milk with cream, corn syrup, PLUS 20 MINUTES COOLING
and sugar mixture.

WHITE COFFEE CHIP Microwave ¼ cup refined coconut oil, 3 ounces
finely chopped bittersweet chocolate, and
At end of step 1, stir 2 cups whole dark-roast coffee pinch table salt at 50 percent power, stirring
beans into milk mixture, cover, and let steep for 1 hour. occasionally, until melted and smooth (2 to
Using slotted spoon, discard coffee beans. Return mixture 4 minutes). Let cool completely. Spoon or pour
to 190 degrees over medium-high heat and proceed with over ice cream.
step 2, whisking extra ½ cup milk (for total of ¾ cup
milk) into cornstarch. Before churning base, microwave QUICK CANDIED NUTS
4 ounces finely chopped bittersweet chocolate in bowl,
stirring frequently, until melted, about 2 minutes; set aside MAKES ½ CUP TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES,
and let cool. Churn base as directed; when base registers PLUS 20 MINUTES COOLING
21 degrees, with maker running, slowly drizzle chocolate
into ice cream and continue to churn until incorporated, We like this recipe with shelled pistachios,
1 to 2 minutes longer. Proceed with recipe. walnuts, or pecans; roasted cashews; salted or
unsalted peanuts; and sliced almonds. To make a
STRAWBERRY RIPPLE mixed batch, cook the nuts individually and then
toss to combine after chopping them.

While base chills, combine 6 ounces hulled fresh strawber- 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and
ries, ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 cup (½ ounce) heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread ½ cup nuts
freeze-dried strawberries in blender; process on high speed in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and
until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer to airtight container toast until fragrant and slightly darkened, 8 to
and refrigerate until ready to use. In step 4, when base reg- 12 minutes, shaking sheet halfway through
isters 21 degrees, spread one-quarter of base on bottom toasting. Transfer nuts to plate and let cool for
of airtight container and top with ¼ cup strawberry mix- 10 to 15 minutes.
ture. Repeat 3 more times, then proceed with recipe.
2. Line now-empty sheet with parchment
PEANUT BUTTER CUP CRUNCH paper. Whisk 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon
hot water, and ⅛ teaspoon table salt in large
In step 1, place ⅓ cup chunky natural peanut butter in bowl until sugar is mostly dissolved. Add nuts
large bowl while milk mixture cooks. In step 3, strain base and stir to coat. Spread nuts on prepared sheet
into bowl with peanut butter and whisk thoroughly to in single layer and bake until nuts are crisp and
combine. In step 4, when base registers 21 degrees and dry, 10 to 12 minutes.
with maker running, add 2 cups halved and frozen mini
peanut butter cups and continue to churn until incorpo- 3. Transfer sheet to wire rack and let nuts cool
rated, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Proceed with recipe. completely, about 20 minutes. Transfer nuts to
cutting board and chop as desired. (Nuts can be
stored at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

july & august 2020

17

Why and How to Grill Stone Fruit

The right technique coaxes smoky sweetness from ripe peaches, plums, or nectarines.

j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

Iwould never argue that there’s a the fruit from sticking and helped increase
better way to enjoy a juicy, fragrant browning where the fruit touched the cook-
peach, plum, or nectarine than to ing grate. The next decision was whether to
devour it raw. But one of the great use oil or butter. Very little oil clung to the

things about the abundance of fruit at wet flesh, but melted butter congealed and

this time of year is that you don’t need to adhered nicely, allowing a thick layer to be

limit yourself to just one way of eating it. applied. As a bonus, the small amount of

So consider grilling: It might just be the protein in the butter encouraged flavorful

next best use for peak-season stone fruit. Maillard browning.

Heating fruit draws out juices, takes aro- Over high heat—whether on charcoal or

mas to new heights, and intensifies sweet- gas—grill marks formed in about 5 minutes.

ness through caramelization—all of which But that was only half the battle, because at

pair perfectly with the hint of smoke the that point the fruit remained a little too firm

grill leaves behind. Grilling fruit is also within. I wanted the flesh to be soft enough

a nice way to take advantage of the heat that a paring knife would easily pierce it, an

of your grill before or after you cook the indication that it had achieved a custardy soft-

main course. ness. Some recipes call for flipping the halves

Before I continue with the mechanics of to continue cooking, but that only burned

the recipe, an aside about ripeness: There the bit of skin that touched the grate before

is no point in grilling rock-hard fruit since the fruit fully softened. Sliding the halves to

it will likely scorch before it softens. A ripe the cooler side of the grill worked better,

stone fruit will be fragrant and yield when especially when I kept the lid down. But it

pressed gently with your fingertip. But the took a long time—up to 20 minutes—for

best way to know if fruit is ready is to eat the flesh to turn truly tender, and by then

a piece, which is why you always ought to the fruit was often a bit dry and shriveled on

buy a few more than you need for a recipe. the outside.

Back to the grilling process. It’s not as That’s when it occurred to me that

simple as throwing a few halved, pitted I might try moving the fruit to an enclosed

peaches, plums, or nectarines onto a hot vessel to retain both heat and moisture—in

grill. There are two main issues to address. other words, grill first and steam second. So

One, their juicy cut faces need a coating of after about 5 minutes on the grill, I trans-

some kind to prevent sticking and promote Brushing the fruit with melted butter helps produce flavorful browning. ferred the halves cut side up to a metal baking

browning. Two, the fruit tends to char or pan, covered the pan with foil, and placed it

dry out on the outside before the flesh fully softens. Only so much sugar would adhere, and what did on the cooler side of the grill to continue cooking.

Most recipes I found used either sugar or fat to stick tended to melt off fairly quickly on the hot grill. After 15 minutes or so, the halves were tender, juicy,

encourage browning on the cut side. In my tests, Besides, ripe fruit already has all the sugar it needs, and still plump. Once they’d cooled slightly, their

granulated or brown sugar or maple syrup did little whether for flavor or browning, and any additional skins were easy to slip off if desired. PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

to improve browning and nothing to prevent stick- ingredients are better applied postgrilling so that While the fruit tasted great on its own, I also had

ing. Nor did they add much flavor or sweetness: they stay in place. Fat was a better choice: It kept plenty of ideas for how to use it in simple recipes.

I started with the peaches, which I cut into cubes

ACHIEVING PERFECTLY GRILLED STONE FRUIT and used as the centerpiece of a salad with juicy ripe
tomatoes, fresh basil, creamy burrata, and lots of pep-

pery extra-virgin olive oil. I used the nectarines for a

dessert, creating a sort of deconstructed crisp with a

quick and crunchy almond-flecked stovetop topping

and scoops of vanilla ice cream. Finally, for the plums,

I put together a quick and tangy plum-ginger chutney

that was lovely paired with grilled pork or lamb.

1. Brush cut side of halved, 2. Grill cut side down over direct heat 3. Transfer cut side up to pan, S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
pitted fruit with melted butter. until grill marks form. cover, and cook over indirect heat N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
until tender.
CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

cook’s illustrated

18

GRILLED STONE FRUIT GRILLED NECTARINES WITH
CRISP ALMOND TOPPING AND ICE CREAM
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR
SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS
For the best results, use high-quality, ripe, in-season
fruit with a fragrant aroma and flesh that yields slightly This recipe can also be made with peaches or plums. We
when gently pressed. Using a metal baking pan on the like pairing vanilla ice cream with these nectarines, but
cooler side of the grill won’t harm the pan, but you other flavors will work, too. For a more rustic dessert,
can use a disposable aluminum pan if preferred; do leave the skins on in step 3.
not use a glass dish. Serve as a side for grilled pork or
lamb or use the fruit in one of the recipes that follow. ½ cup (2½ ounces) all-purpose flour
¼ cup sliced almonds
1½ pounds ripe but slightly firm stone fruit, ¼ cup packed (1¾ ounces) brown sugar
halved and pitted ¼ teaspoon table salt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon water
1. Brush cut side of fruit with melted butter. 1 recipe Grilled Stone Fruit, using nectarines
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL: Open bot- 1 pint vanilla ice cream
tom vent completely. Light large chimney starter
three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes 1. Stir flour, almonds, sugar, and salt in medium bowl
(4½ quarts). When top coals are partially covered until combined. Add melted butter, vanilla, and water
with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking and stir until clumps form and no dry flour remains.
grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely.
Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes. 2. Transfer flour mixture to 10-inch nonstick skillet
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL: Turn all burners to and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until
high; cover; and heat grill until hot, about 15 min- clumps break down into finer pieces and topping is
utes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off fragrant and just beginning to brown, 7 to 9 minutes.
other burner(s). Spread topping on large plate and let cool and crisp, at
3. Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange fruit cut least 15 minutes.
side down on hotter side of grill and cook (covered if
using gas) until grill marks have formed, 5 to 7 min- 3. Using your fingers, slip off nectarine skins and
utes, moving fruit as needed to ensure even cooking. discard, if desired. Divide nectarines among individual
4. Transfer fruit cut side up to 13 by 9-inch serving bowls. Add scoop of ice cream to each bowl,
baking pan and cover loosely with aluminum foil. sprinkle topping evenly over ice cream and nectarines,
Place pan on cooler side of grill. If using gas, turn and serve.
primary burner to medium. Cover and cook until
fruit is very tender and paring knife slips in and out GRILLED PEACH AND TOMATO SALAD
with little resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. When cool WITH BURRATA AND BASIL
enough to handle, discard skins, if desired. Let cool
completely. Serve. SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS

GRILLED PLUM AND GINGER CHUTNEY This recipe can also be made with nectarines or plums.
If burrata is unavailable, sliced fresh mozzarella makes
SERVES 8 TO 10 (MAKES 2 CUPS) TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS a suitable substitute.

This recipe can also be made with peaches or nectar- 12 ounces ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into
ines. The chutney works well with grilled pork or lamb. ½-inch pieces

1 recipe Grilled Stone Fruit, using plums, ¾ teaspoon table salt, divided
skins discarded 1 recipe Grilled Stone Fruit, using peaches,
skins discarded
¼ cup sugar 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
¼ cup cider vinegar 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 shallot, minced 8 ounces burrata cheese, room temperature
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard ⅓ cup chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted
½ teaspoon table salt 1. Toss tomatoes with ¼ teaspoon salt and let drain
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes in colander for 30 minutes. Cut each peach half into
4 wedges and cut each wedge in half crosswise.
Cut plums into ½-inch chunks. Place in medium From top to bottom: Grilled Plum and Ginger
saucepan. Add sugar, vinegar, shallot, mustard, cori- Chutney, Grilled Nectarines with Crisp Almond 2. Whisk vinegar and remaining ½ teaspoon salt
ander seeds, salt, and pepper flakes and cook over Topping and Ice Cream, Grilled Peach and Tomato together in large bowl. Whisking constantly, slowly
medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened and Salad with Burrata and Basil drizzle in ¼ cup oil. Add tomatoes and peaches and
glossy, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes and toss gently to combine; transfer to shallow serving
serve. (Chutney can be refrigerated in airtight container bowl. Place burrata on top of salad and drizzle with
for up to 3 days.) remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Season with pepper to taste
and sprinkle with basil. Serve, breaking up burrata with
spoon and allowing creamy liquid to meld with dressing.

july & august 2020

19

Brewing the Best Iced Tea

Whether you sip it daily or want a special beverage for summertime meals,
here is how to make a lively, full-flavored brew.

j BY LAN LAM k

Iced tea sure is popular: Of the 3.8 billion gal-
lons of tea consumed in the United States in
2018, a whopping 80 percent of it was iced.
I count myself among the many who regularly
quench their thirst with the stuff, so I was happy to
steep and sip my way through dozens of pitchers to
develop guidelines for making the best possible ver-
sions of black and green iced tea. Overall, I found
that you don’t need to be quite as persnickety about
iced tea as you do about hot (particularly if you’re
adding flavorings). But you do need to take steps to
avoid watery or overextracted brews. Here, I offer
advice on what kind of tea to use; describe a novel
brewing method; and give recipes for adding sweet-
ness, fruit, and herbs.

Splurge on Loose-Leaf for Plain Iced Tea

When I compared iced tea made from loose-leaf tea
with iced tea made from tea bags (using the same
type and brand for consistency), I found that the
former produced a more flavorful, complex drink.
That’s because most tea bags are filled with tiny
broken tea leaves, called “dust” or “fannings,” that
remain after the higher-quality whole leaves are
sifted. These dregs have very little interior that’s not
exposed to air, so aromas and volatile oils readily
escape from the broken surfaces.

Tea Bags Are Fine for the Flavored Kind

When I made our flavored iced tea recipes using equal

weights of bagged and loose-leaf tea, the differences

were too subtle to justify the extra expense of loose-leaf.

That said, stick with good-quality bagged tea.

Our unique hot-and-cold brewing method produces an outstanding summer cooler.

Make a Lively Infusion

I found that 1½ tablespoons of black tea per quart Employ a Hybrid Brewing Method of the compounds that give tea balanced astringency

of water produced a vibrant yet not overly strong Iced tea can be brewed using either cold or boiling and bitterness are extracted more effectively in

brew. If using green tea, which is generally subtler, water. In a side-by-side comparison, a cold-water, hot water than in cold water (see “Leverage Your

increase the amount to 2 tablespoons. 24-hour infusion tasted flat. That’s because a number Leaves”). But iced tea brewed for 4 minutes in water

that had been brought to a boil lacked sufficient

Tea 101 Evaluate these qualities when you sip tea straight, whether iced or hot. intensity. Making the tea stronger by brewing longer
in hot water only made the tea overly bitter and

mouth-drying. Increasing the amount of tea worked, PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY

Taste: As with wine, the flavor of Aroma: Distinctive aromas that Texture: Great tea isn’t just about but I ultimately came up with a thrifty method that

tea ranges from light and delicate span a broad spectrum are a big taste, it’s also about mouthfeel. produced the same great flavor without extra tea.

to full and pungent. And all teas component of the flavor of tea. Polyphenols can cause astringency, First, steep the tea in 3 cups of water that has been

contain bitter polyphenols, but the Expect fruity, leathery, floral, or or a pleasant drying sensation, that brought to a boil (or 175-degree water for green tea)

exact content varies depending on even smoky aromas in black teas. lingers on the palate. Some infu- for 4 minutes. Then add 1 cup of ice water and con-

a number of variables, including Green teas tend to feature grassy, sions also contain compounds that tinue to steep for 1 hour. At the cooler temperature,

terroir, oxidation, and aging. mineral, floral, and marine scents. give tea a lingering creaminess. full-flavored aromatic compounds continue to infuse

the water and the bitter and astringent ones do not.

cook’s illustrated

20

[ BLACK ] [ GREEN ]

Teas VARIETY: Assam VARIETY: Keemun VARIETY: Second VARIETY: Gunpowder VARIETY: Sencha
to Try PROFILE: full-bodied PROFILE: a smooth, Flush Darjeeling or Dragon Well
tea with robust, creamy mouthfeel; PROFILE: mild (slightly sweeter) PROFILE: seaweed,
Here are a few malty flavor slight smokiness; sweetness, citrus, alfalfa, and umami
and hints and light PROFILE: astringency
of my favorite of cocoa floral notes and grassy,
vegetal flavors
teas to serve

iced (and hot).

ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN ICED BLACK TEA GINGER-POMEGRANATE ICED BLACK TEA Simpler Simple Syrup

SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES, Two tea bags can be substituted for the loose-leaf Granulated sugar can be difficult to dissolve in
PLUS 2 HOURS STEEPING AND CHILLING tea. If you prefer a more pronounced ginger flavor, iced tea, leaving grit in your drink, but sugar in the
add the full 2 tablespoons of grated ginger. form of syrup is easy to incorporate. This quick
You can substitute decaffeinated tea if desired. Do method uses warm water instead of the usual
not substitute tea bags for the loose-leaf tea. Your ice Add ⅔ cup pomegranate juice, 2 tablespoons stovetop simmer. –Nicole Konstantinakos
water should be half ice and half water. This recipe sugar, and 1½ to 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger to
can easily be doubled. Sweeten with Rich Simple tea with ice water. Substitute lime wedges for lemon. RICH SIMPLE SYRUP
Syrup, if desired. For an accurate measurement of
boiling water, bring a kettle of water to a boil and ICED GREEN TEA MAKES 1 CUP TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES,
then measure out the desired amount. PLUS 10 MINUTES COOLING
SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES,
1½ tablespoons loose-leaf black tea PLUS 2 HOURS STEEPING AND CHILLING Whisk ¾ cup sugar and ⅓ cup warm water
3 cups boiling water in bowl until sugar has dissolved. Let cool
1 cup ice water Chinese green tea will produce a grassy, floral tea, completely, about 10 minutes, before transferring
Lemon wedges whereas Japanese green tea is more savory. You can to airtight container. (Syrup can be refrigerated
substitute decaffeinated tea if desired. Do not sub- for up to 1 month.)
1. Place tea in medium bowl. Add boiling water stitute tea bags for the loose-leaf tea. To ensure that
and steep for 4 minutes. Add ice water and steep for your water is at the proper temperature, start with CANTALOUPE-MINT ICED GREEN TEA
1 hour. Strain through fine-mesh strainer into pitcher 2½ cups of boiling water; add cold water, a little at a
(or strain into second bowl and transfer to pitcher). time, and stir with an instant-read thermometer until Three tea bags can be substituted for the loose-leaf tea.
Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. the water registers 175 degrees; and then measure Remove seeds from ½ small ripe cantaloupe and
out 3 cups. Your ice water should be half ice and half
2. To serve, pour into ice-filled glasses and garnish water. This recipe can easily be doubled. Sweeten cut into 4 quarters. Grasping peel, shred flesh on
each serving with lemon wedge. with Rich Simple Syrup, if desired. large holes of box grater to yield 1 cup pulp. Add
pulp, 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, 2 table-
RASPBERRY-BASIL ICED BLACK TEA 2 tablespoons loose-leaf green tea spoons sugar, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice to tea
3 cups hot water (175 degrees) with ice water. Garnish each serving with mint sprig.
Two tea bags can be substituted for the loose-leaf tea. 1 cup ice water Omit lemon.

Mash 1½ cups thawed frozen raspberries, 3 table- Lemon wedges Cucumber-Lime Iced Green Tea balances the 
spoons chopped fresh basil, 2 tablespoons sugar, vegetal flavor of cucumber with the citrusy
and 2 teaspoons lemon juice in bowl until no whole 1. Place tea in medium bowl. Add hot water tang of lime zest and juice.
berries remain. Add mixture to tea with ice water. and steep for 4 minutes. Add ice water and steep
Garnish each serving with basil sprig. Omit lemon. for 1 hour. Strain through fine-mesh strainer into
pitcher (or strain into second bowl and transfer
Leverage Your Leaves to pitcher). Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up
to 3 days.
Tea can be expensive—so brew with economy in
mind. We make a full-flavored drink not by adding 2. To serve, pour into ice-filled glasses and garnish
extra leaves but by using a smart method. each serving with lemon wedge.

HOT STEEP: 4 minutes CUCUMBER-LIME ICED GREEN TEA
A short, hot steep draws out com-
pounds such as caffeine, theobro- Three tea bags can be substituted for the loose-leaf tea.
mine, and polyphenols that make tea
pleasantly bitter and astringent. Shred ½ English cucumber on large holes of
box grater. Add shredded cucumber, 2 tablespoons
COOL STEEP: 1 hour sugar, ½ teaspoon grated lime zest, and 1 table-
Adding ice water slows the spoon lime juice to tea with ice water. Substitute
extraction of bitter and astringent lime slices for lemon wedges.
compounds. Continuing to steep
for 1 hour magnifies full-flavored S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
aromatic compounds. N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N

CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

july & august 2020

21

A Thermometer for Multitaskers

Babysitting food can be a real slog; remote-probe thermometers untether you
from the oven or grill and let you monitor food temperature from afar.

j BY LAUREN SAVOIE k

You’re hungry, but your food is taking All the models transmit data via radio frequency, but our tests revealed that some perform better than others.
forever to cook. You open the oven or
grill every few minutes, insert your ther- the base displays the temperature, allowing you from the base to a handheld monitor (much like a
mometer, and your food is still not the to monitor food without opening the oven door walkie-talkie). Smartphone-connected thermometers

correct temperature. It’s a double-edged sword: or lifting the grill lid. However, you can read the transmit temperature data from the base to an app

The more you open the oven door or lift the grill temperature only when standing next to the stove on your phone.

lid, the longer it will take to cook your food. or grill. Remote-probe thermometers solve that To find the best, we tested two pager-style and

Our winning clip-on probe thermometer, the problem, allowing you to monitor the temperature five smartphone-connected models. Of the five smart-

ChefAlarm by ThermoWorks, helps with this prob- of food without being tethered to the oven or grill. phone-connected thermometers, four use Bluetooth

lem. It features a probe that is connected by a thin Before we started testing, we learned that there and one uses Wi-Fi to transmit data. Two of the

wire to a base that sits outside the grill or oven. The are two types of remote-probe thermometers. Pager- Bluetooth thermometers were “smart-probe” ther-

probe is inserted into the food you’re cooking, and style thermometers send their temperature data mometers—their wireless probes transmit temperature

data directly to your phone.

Sneak Peek We used each model to monitor pork butt on
a gas grill for 4 hours, hamburgers quickly cooked

At the time this issue went to press, ThermoWorks introduced a new remote-probe thermometer, the Smoke on the stovetop, and whole chickens roasted on a

X Long-Range Wireless BBQ Alarm Thermometer. It features a 1.24-mile range and two to four channels and charcoal grill for 1 hour. During each test we walked

is currently priced from about $165 to about $200 (depending on the model). We will test this model soon up to 1,000 feet from the foods, up and down stairs,

and update our remote-probe thermometer review on our website. According to ThermoWorks, our current and behind walls, frequently checking connections.

winner, the ThermoWorks Smoke 2-Channel Alarm ($99), will continue to be available. We also tested them in the dark, in the rain, and in

an area with limited cell service.

cook’s illustrated

22

Getting Connected Homing In on Accuracy The pager of the ThermoWorks Smoke 2-Channel
Alarm has a big, clear display that allowed us to easily
Setting up the two pager-style thermometers was a To check each model’s accuracy, a thermom- monitor the temperature of cooking food from afar.
breeze. The bases connected to the probes were auto- eter’s most important trait, we used an immersion
matically paired to the handheld receivers. Conversely, circulator—a device that heats water to a precise We Tested Pager-Style and
we had to pair each of the smartphone-connected temperature for sous vide cooking—to warm a water Smartphone-Connected Models
thermometers with our phones via the specific model’s bath to 130, 180, and 212 degrees. We positioned
app, which we had to download first. For some the probes in the water baths and compared their Pager
models, this was straightforward. However, other readings to a lab-calibrated reference thermometer.
models required many extra steps that were confusing All but one of the thermometers were accurate to Meat Probe Base
or cumbersome. The two wireless probes also had within 1 degree. The inaccurate thermometer was
to be charged for at least 4 hours before we could off by up to 7 degrees, which could make the differ- PAGER-STYLE
even pair them with a phone (not a deal breaker, but ence between a medium-well and well-done steak.
disappointing). PROS: Moderate connection distance; not
We also tested how rapidly each model relayed dependent on Wi-Fi or cell service; easy-to-use
Next, we monitored ranges. We distributed the temperature information from its probe to its receiver lanyard-style pager
probes of all the models among the three pork butt by dunking the room-temperature probes in ice water
roasts called for in our recipe and set the thermom- three times and timing how long it took for readings CON: Doesn’t pair with smartphone
eters to alert us when the roasts reached 210 degrees. of 32 degrees to register. The times ranged from an
We then walked up to 1,000 feet in various directions average of 5 seconds (on par with the ChefAlarm) Meat Probe Base Phone
away from the grill, venturing up and down stairs to an average of 25 seconds. While you’re unlikely
and behind thick concrete walls and metal barriers, to overcook your food in 25 seconds, we preferred SMARTPHONE-CONNECTED
all while continuously checking all the connections. models with relay times of 10 seconds or less.
PROS: You can monitor temperature and set
The Bluetooth thermometers were the first to go. Ultimately, we chose a pager-style thermometer as alarms with a phone; one model had unlimited
One stopped transmitting at just 25 feet, and the our top pick. The ThermoWorks Smoke 2-Channel range (as long as there was Wi-Fi/cell service)
three others dropped off at between 150 and 200 Alarm was accurate to within 0.1 degrees of a refer-
feet. The pager-style thermometers had a moderate ence thermometer and maintained a stable connection CONS: Most models transmit data via Bluetooth,
range of about 300 to 450 feet in open air. Only the across 300 feet of open space. The receiver paired which results in much shorter ranges
Wi-Fi-connected thermometer continued to transmit instantly with its base when we took it out of the
temperature readings no matter how far away we were package, and large, bright, backlit displays on both Meat Probe Base Phone
from the grill; it lost connection only when we went the base and the receiver clearly display the tem-
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN into an area with no cell phone or Wi-Fi service. perature reading. The base is magnetic and can be SMARTPHONE-CONNECTED
attached to an oven door or a grill lid, and it has a (WIRELESS)
What was causing the drastic range differ- kickstand for stability when sitting on a side table
ences? Antennae. The antennae of the two wireless or counter. The receiver comes with a lanyard, so PROS: No messy wires; you can monitor
Bluetooth smart-probe thermometers are crammed you can wear it around your neck. Whenever we temperature and set alarms with a phone
into tiny spaces at the end of the probes, likely reduc- lost connection, the receiver beeped loudly (a but-
ing the reaches of their radio waves. Conversely, ton press silences the alarm), and it automatically CONS: Short ranges due to Bluetooth; one model
thermometers with bases can accommodate larger regained connection when we were back in range. needs to be charged for 4 hours before using
and better-powered antennae, so their ranges tend It can read up to 572 degrees Fahrenheit, which
to be significantly longer. The one Wi-Fi-connected makes it even more versatile because you can use it
thermometer gave us the longest range as long as we as a traditional thermometer for candy making or
had Wi-Fi or cell service, but when we didn’t, the unit deep frying, too.
switched over to Bluetooth and its range was com-
parable to other Bluetooth devices—100 feet or so.

As for the apps of the smartphone-connected
thermometers, many were confusing to navigate and
didn’t give clear alerts when we went out of range or
when the food reached the right temperature. Also,
most have preset temperatures built in for various
cuts and types of meat that we found resulted in
overcooked food.

Pager-style thermometers were much simpler to
use. Our favorite had big, clear buttons and a large,
bright display that made setting and reading the tem-
perature a cinch. The alarm was loud, and it beeped
when we lost connection from the base. Best of all,
the pager and base automatically reconnected when
we walked back into range.

SEE HOW
THE TESTING
WAS DONE

CooksIllustrated.
com/AUG20

july & august 2020

23

KEY

GOOD +++

TESTING REMOTE-PROBE THERMOMETERS FAIR ++
POOR +

METHODOLOGY H I G H LY R E C O M M E N D E D TESTERS’ COMMENTS

• Test 7 models, priced from about THERMOWORKS Smoke 2-Channel Alarm The base paired automatically with the
$43 to about $230: 2 pager-style receiver, so it was ready to use in seconds.
models and 5 smartphone-connected MODEL: TX-1300-XX (last 2 digits depend on color of unit) Both the base and the receiver had bright,
models PRICE: $99.00 RANGE: 300 ft STYLE: Pager CONNECTION: Radio clear, easy-to-read displays; both also had
TEMPERATURE RANGE: -58°F to 572°F backlights for operating in the dark. The
• Set up all models according to POWER TYPE: AA batteries unit maintained a connection for up to 300 
manufacturers’ instructions and NUMBER OF PROBES: 2 feet and alerted us when we were out of
pair smartphone-connected models SETUP: +++ range. It automatically reconnected when
to iPhone CONNECTIVITY: ++½ it was back in range. Its alarms were loud
EASE OF USE: +++ and easy to set. While we used it primarily
• Monitor temperature of pork butt ACCURACY: +++ for grilling, this thermometer can read up
on gas grill for 4 hours to 572 degrees for deep frying or candy
making. It transmits temperature data from
• Monitor temperature of hamburgers the probe to the base in 8 seconds.
cooking on stovetop
RECOMMENDED BEST TESTERS’ COMMENTS
• Monitor temperature of chicken BUY
roasting on charcoal grill for 1 hour NUTRICHEF Bluetooth Wireless BBQ Grill Thermometer The range of this smartphone-connected
model maxed out at about 200 feet in open
• During all tests, walk away from MODEL: PWIRBBQ80 PRICE: $43.99 RANGE: 200 ft air. The app and base both displayed data
probe until receiver loses connec- STYLE: Smartphone-connected CONNECTION: Bluetooth in large, clear numbers, and it was easy to
tion (up to 1,000 feet), then walk TEMPERATURE RANGE: Up to 482°F pair the model with its app. Its temperature
back toward probe and check for POWER TYPE: AA batteries NUMBER OF PROBES: 2 readings were accurate to within 1 degree.
reconnection SETUP: ++½ CONNECTIVITY: ++ It transmitted readings via Bluetooth from
EASE OF USE: +++ ACCURACY: +++ the probe to the app in 5 seconds.
• Walk behind walls, up and down
stairs, and in areas with low cell and R E C O M M E N D E D W I T H R E S E RVAT I O N S
Wi-Fi service, checking connection
MEATER+ This wireless probe transmits temperature
• Test temperature accuracy at 130, MODEL: OSC-MT-MP01 PRICE: $99.00 RANGE: 165 ft data to your phone via Bluetooth; how-
180, and 212 degrees Fahrenheit STYLE: Wireless smartphone-connected probe ever, you have to keep the charging base
CONNECTION: Bluetooth NUMBER OF PROBES: 1 near both the probe and your phone, as it
• Test reading display lag time by dunk- TEMPERATURE RANGE: Up to 527°F contains the Bluetooth transmitter. Pairing
ing room-temperature probes in ice POWER TYPE: Charging cable (AAA battery included) was relatively easy, but the device has to be
water and timing how long it takes SETUP: + CONNECTIVITY: ++ EASE OF USE: ++ ACCURACY: +++ charged for at least 4 hours before you can
for receiver to register 32 degrees use it. Its maximum range was 165 feet.
NOT RECOMMENDED
• Leave out in rain for 2 hours
THERMOWORKS Signals 4-Channel This Wi-Fi-connected option from
• Try to read display in darkness Wi-Fi/Bluetooth BBQ Alarm Thermometer ThermoWorks comes with four probes and
boasts the same clear display, accuracy, and
• Clean probes after each test MODEL: TX-1500-XX PRICE: $229.00 alarms as our favorite. However, pairing
STYLE: Smartphone-connected CONNECTION: Bluetooth and Wi-Fi the base with the app wasn’t easy, and the
SETUP: We evaluated how easy the SETUP: +½ CONNECTIVITY: ++ app is glitchy and difficult to navigate, which
probes and bases were to set up and EASE OF USE: + ACCURACY: +++ renders it unreliable.
pair with their receiver or apps.
MAVERICK XR-50 Wireless Barbecue + While this model’s range was long and
CONNECTIVITY: We noted the Food Digital Thermometer its readings were accurate to within
range and consistency of each ther- 0.3 degrees, it wasn’t easy to use and its
mometer’s connection to its receiver MODEL: XR-50 PRICE: $89.95 STYLE: Pager instructions were lacking. Its display was
or a smartphone and its ability to CONNECTION: Radio hard to read. It didn’t always automatically
regain connection when back in range. SETUP: +½ CONNECTIVITY: ++ reconnect to the base when it went out of
EASE OF USE: + ACCURACY: +++ range. The receiver was bulky.
EASE OF USE: We evaluated how
easy it was to set and silence alarms WEBER iGrill 2 While this thermometer was easy to set up
and set custom target temperatures, and paired quickly, its readings varied more
how clear and legible the displays MODEL: 7203 PRICE: $66.99 than 8 degrees from the target tempera-
were, and how intuitive the apps were STYLE: Smartphone-connected CONNECTION: Bluetooth ture when compared with a lab-calibrated
to operate. SETUP: ++ CONNECTIVITY: ++ thermometer. Its range was short, and it
EASE OF USE: +½ ACCURACY: + struggled to regain connection.
ACCURACY: We measured the
accuracy of the thermometers by Meat It by MASTRAD We had many difficulties with this wireless
comparing their readings at different probe. We lost connection with it each time
temperatures to a lab-calibrated MODEL: A74300 PRICE: $64.99 STYLE: Wireless our phone locked. We then had to remove
reference thermometer. We also smartphone-connected probe CONNECTION: Bluetooth the probe from the hot meat, return it to its
looked at probe response time. SETUP: + CONNECTIVITY: + base, and re-pair it with the phone, which
EASE OF USE: + ACCURACY: +++ was tedious and troublesome.

cook’s illustrated

24

Tasting Meat-Free Burgers

Can these new products satisfy vegetarians and meat eaters alike?

j BY KATE SHANNON k

T here’s a seismic shift happening in the Twenty-one staff members tasted eight different plant-based products from seven different companies.
world of vegetarian, or plant-based,
“meat.” Companies are targeting con- now available in supermarkets, with Beyond Meat Plant-Based Burgers versus Beef Burgers
sumers who like meat but who, for any offering burger patties and both companies offering
number of reasons, want to eat less of it. These prod- packages of coarsely ground plant-based meat that Beef burgers, for the most part, are simple: just
ucts are intended to mimic the taste, texture, and resembles bulk ground beef. The companies say that ground beef, probably seasoned with salt and pep-
experience of eating meat. This meat eater–friendly these bulk products can be formed into burgers or per, that’s pressed into patties. Raw beef has very
approach is working: Americans spent $801 mil- incorporated into any recipe that calls for ground little flavor, but when it’s cooked, a complicated
lion on plant-based meat last year, according to beef. Increasingly, these meat-free options are found series of chemical reactions—collectively known as
research from the Plant Based Foods Association right next to the regular ground beef in supermarket the Maillard reaction—occurs to create an intensely
and the Good Food Institute. That’s an increase of meat sections instead of with the tofu and other veg- flavorful, crusty, browned exterior. Meanwhile, the
10 percent over the previous year. etarian proteins. However, they tend to cost more, beef fat that’s dispersed throughout the patty melts,
sometimes up to about $18 per pound compared helping distribute the burger’s aroma and flavor and
The companies getting the most press are with about $6 per pound for ground beef. moistening the ground meat so that it’s tender.
Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat. Each was
inspired by an ambitious goal: combating climate To find out if these products tasted good and Everything about plant-based burgers is differ-
change by lessening, or even completely stopping, could appeal to both vegetarians and meat eaters, we ent, starting with the ingredient (or combination
human dependence on livestock. Both companies purchased eight products that were clearly positioned of ingredients) used to make up the bulk of each
acknowledge that they can accomplish that sky-high as meat-like. Six were sold as preformed burger pat- burger. For the products in our lineup, it was pea
goal only if their products are delicious and sat- ties, and two were “ground” products that we shaped protein, soy protein, mycoprotein, or wheat gluten.
isfying enough to win over meat eaters. They’ve into burgers ourselves. (For consistency, we’ll refer to Other essential ingredients in meat-free burgers are
had the most success so far with burgers, which all the products in our lineup as “burgers” because fats (usually one or more kinds of oil) intended to
Americans first got to taste in restaurants as varied as that’s how we ate them.) We cooked the burgers on add richness and flavor, as well as thickeners and
Burger King and David Chang’s Momofuku Nishi. the stovetop and held two blind tastings: plain, and binders that make the patties moist and hold them
Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat products are on buns with ketchup and lettuce. together. Finally, many contain vegetable purees or
juices, spices, seasonings, and flavorings that make

july & august 2020

25

the burgers taste meaty and savory. All told, each Impossible to MEDIUM-RARE MEDIUM WELL-DONE
of the burgers in our lineup had at least a dozen Overcook? 125˚F 135˚F 165˚F
ingredients and sometimes more than 20. For some,
that complex combination of ingredients added up The Impossible Burger (right),
to something remarkable. Many closely matched which looks and tastes
the protein level, fat content, and calorie count of a remarkably similar to
real beef burger. ground beef, changes
color when cooked to
Comparing Meat-Free Burgers different temperatures. But unlike
ground beef, it remains impressively
As we formed the bulk meat into 4-ounce patties, we moist and juicy whether cooked to
were floored by how realistic they looked and how medium-rare, medium, or well-done.
well they held together. Two of the preformed burg-
ers looked quite convincing, too. We grew even more slightly red at the center. The company holds a patent memorable. Tasters were surprised by how completely
impressed by some of the burgers as they cooked.
They started off a familiar reddish pink and gradually for the use of heme protein in food, preventing other some products mimicked beef burgers and described
turned brown, their exteriors became crispy, and they
let off smoke and sizzled in much the same way that manufacturers from using the technology. Other them accordingly: Comments included “I can’t tell
ground beef does. They even remained slightly red
and juicy at the center. But not all of them were very companies use fruit or vegetable juice for color, which this isn’t meat,” “It tastes like a normal burger,” and
convincing or appetizing. Some of the patties were
very flat and uniform and the same brownish-gray tinted the burgers very vibrant shades of red. Some “This blew me away!” Our favorite, the Impossible
color as the meatless burgers of yesteryear.
products made with them did darken as they cooked Burger, lived up to the hype that has surrounded it
In terms of flavor, the burgers fell into three
groups: bland, intensely seasoned, and impressively and were much more beef-like than other meat-free since Impossible Foods was founded in 2011. Sold in
beefy. Bland burgers were disappointing but not
objectionable. Burgers that were too sweet, over- burgers we had seen before, but even the best weren’t 12-ounce vacuum-packed squares of coarsely ground
whelmingly savory, or supersmoky, on the other
hand, were off-putting. The sweetness came from quite as convincingly beef-like in appearance as the plant-based meat, it looked remarkably like ground
either added sugar or vegetable purees. The intense
savoriness—which often reminded tasters of soy sauce, burger made with heme. beef, both in its package and after we formed it into
barbecue sauce, or Worcestershire sauce—was likely
due to an excess of umami-boosting ingredients, such patties and cooked them. We were also impressed
as yeast extract and malt extract, or smoke flavor.
When we calculated the nutrition information for Thin and Sad to Big and Beefy by its realistic mineral-y taste. Although Impossible
a 4-ounce serving of each product, we noticed that
those overly seasoned burgers contained a consider- Burger texture was just as important as flavor. Many Burger was our clear favorite, we liked both the plant-
able amount of sodium (upwards of 400 milligrams)
and sugar (a gram or more). of the preformed burgers were much too smooth and based products from Beyond Meat. Their exteriors

Our favorites had a truly savory quality that uniform in texture. Some were “mushy,” “spongy,” didn’t brown as impressively as the Impossible Burger
tasted “meaty” and “beefy.” The best, from
Impossible Foods, achieved its distinctly “iron-y” or “squishy.” One preformed patty, which weighed and their interiors retained a slightly purple tint, but
and “mineral-y” flavor through its unique use of an
important ingredient called heme protein. Heme is about 3 ounces and was less than ½ inch thick, their textures were very similar to real beef. All three
a type of iron-containing molecule; the most famil-
iar example is hemoglobin, which makes blood red. felt small and insubstantial. Another had an oddly products are excellent meat-free choices for anyone
The scientists at Impossible Foods made two key
discoveries about it. First, the heme naturally pres- “feathered,” “wispy” texture that reminded tasters who wants to eat less meat or offer a high-quality
ent in meat influences the Maillard reaction when
that meat is cooked, playing an essential role in of a crab cake. Our favorites developed satisfyingly option to vegetarian family members or friends.
developing its unique flavor. And second, a vegan
version made from legumes could do the same crunchy, crispy crusts and firmed up on the inside
thing. In fact, says Celeste Holz-Schietinger, direc-
tor of research at Impossible Foods, heme from as they cooked. The best weighed roughly 4 ounces
cows and heme from legumes “are identical molecule
to molecule” and “create the exact same flavor pro- per portion and were thicker, about ¾ inch on aver-
file.” Today, the company uses soy leghemoglobin
that it produces by inserting DNA from soy plants age. Best of all, they had coarse, somewhat irregular
into yeast cells, which produce their own copies of the
protein. Heme protein, which is blood-red in color, textures. Biting through them felt a lot like biting
also gives the burgers from Impossible Foods a red-
dish color that darkens as it cooks, much like ground through a beef burger, especially when we sampled
beef. It also helps the burgers stay juicy, moist, and
them on buns with toppings.

Our three favorite products contained another

set of ingredients that proved essential for creating

meat-like texture: coconut oil used in combination

with canola or sunflower oil. Coconut oil is solid

at room temperature (it melts at 76 degrees), so

the little flecks of it embedded in these products

looked and felt very similar to the bits of fat visible

in uncooked ground beef. As the burgers cook, the

coconut oil flecks melt

and help distribute the Some Look Like
burger’s aroma and fla- Meat, but Not All
vor in much the same

way beef fat does in The textures of the

beef burgers. better burgers in our

lineup (top of the

Our Favorite stack) were more

We’ve eaten a lot of like traditional beef burgers.

remarkable food in the The other burgers (bottom

test kitchen, but these of the stack) were mushy

tastings stood out and uniform in texture.

as some of the most

cook’s illustrated

26

OUR RESULTS

METHODOLOGY H I G H LY R E C O M M E N D E D

• Taste 8 products, including IMPOSSIBLE FOODS Impossible Burger
6 preformed patties and
2 products resembling bulk PRICE: $10.39 for 12 oz ($13.85 per lb) FORMAT: Ground
ground beef that we formed INGREDIENTS: Water, soy protein concentrate, coconut oil, sunflower oil, natural flavors,
into 4-ounce patties 2% or less of: potato protein, methylcellulose, yeast extract, cultured dextrose, food starch modified,
soy leghemoglobin, salt, soy protein isolate, mixed tocopherols (vitamin E), zinc gluconate, thiamine
• Purchased at Boston-area hydrochloride (vitamin B1), sodium ascorbate (vitamin C), niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride
supermarkets (vitamin B6), riboflavin (vitamin B2), vitamin B2
PROTEIN: 19 g FAT: 14 g SODIUM: 370 mg SUGAR: < 1 g
• Prices ranged from about COMMENTS: The flavor, texture, and appearance of this product, which is sold in 12-ounce packages, are remarkably similar to
$0.40 to about $1.50 per those of ground beef. Its mineral-y flavor and blood-red color are due to the company’s pioneering use of heme protein from soy
ounce (about $6.00 to about leghemoglobin, an iron-containing molecule naturally found in soy roots. The coarse texture and bits of solid coconut oil resemble
$18.00 per pound) beef flecked with fat. As one taster summed it up, “If I didn’t know, I would think it was meat.”

• Cook on stovetop; RECOMMENDED
sample plain
BEYOND MEAT Beyond Burger
• Cook on stovetop; sample
on buns with ketchup and PRICE: $5.99 for 8 oz ($11.98 per lb) FORMAT: Patties
lettuce INGREDIENTS: Water, pea protein isolate, expeller-pressed canola oil, refined coconut oil, rice protein,
natural flavors, cocoa butter, mung bean protein, methylcellulose, potato starch, apple extract, salt,
• Samples were randomized potassium chloride, vinegar, lemon juice concentrate, sunflower lecithin, pomegranate fruit powder,
and tasted blind to beet juice extract (for color)
eliminate bias PROTEIN: 20 g FAT: 18 g SODIUM: 350 mg SUGAR: 0 g
COMMENTS: These patties had a coarser texture than the bulk ground product sold by the same brand. Tasters liked that their interiors
• Compare ingredients “really resembled ground beef ” and that their exteriors developed good crunch. Their flavor was rich and savory, but not quite as
impressively so as the Impossible Burger. The cooked burgers were slightly purple, likely due to the beet juice extract added for coloring.
• Compare nutrition That said, they are still an excellent meat-free option likely to satisfy vegetarians and meat eaters alike.
information per serving,
adjusting to standard BEYOND MEAT Beyond Beef
113-gram (or roughly
4-ounce) serving as PRICE: $9.99 for 16 oz ($9.99 per lb) FORMAT: Ground
necessary INGREDIENTS: Water, pea protein isolate, expeller-pressed canola oil, refined coconut oil, rice protein,
natural flavors, cocoa butter, mung bean protein, methylcellulose, potato starch, apple extract, salt,
potassium chloride, vinegar, lemon juice concentrate, sunflower lecithin, pomegranate fruit powder,
beet juice extract (for color)
PROTEIN: 20 g FAT: 18 g SODIUM: 390 mg SUGAR: 0 g
COMMENTS: Although we preferred this company’s preformed patties, we enjoyed this bulk product, too.
When we formed it into patties and cooked it, its texture was still “meat-like,” and it developed a “nice crunchy crust on the exterior.”
Like the preformed patties made by the same company, the burgers made with this product retained a slight purple hue when cooked.

R E C O M M E N D E D W I T H R E S E RVAT I O N S NOT RECOMMENDED

QUORN Meatless Gourmet Burgers MORNINGSTAR FARMS Meat Lovers Vegan Burger

PRICE: $4.99 for 11.3 oz ($7.07 per lb) PRICE: $4.99 for 8 oz ($9.98 per lb) FORMAT: Patties
FORMAT: Patties PROTEIN: 14 g FAT: 10 g PROTEIN: 27 g FAT: 18 g SODIUM: 580 mg SUGAR: < 1 g
SODIUM: 649 mg SUGAR: 1 g COMMENTS: The patties were thin, and their texture was unlike
COMMENTS: These burgers were packed with anything else in our lineup. The exteriors became very crisp when
sweet, savory, salty flavor. Some tasters thought cooked, and the interiors had a wispy, feathered texture.
they were very satisfying, but others found their
intensity overwhelming, comparing the flavor to such packaged foods as barbecue LIGHTLIFE Plant-Based Burger
potato chips and beef jerky. It’s likely the company used generous amounts of malt
extract and yeast, which amp up the umami, or savory, quality of foods. The burgers PRICE: $8.99 for 8 oz ($17.98 per lb) FORMAT: Patties
were softer and smoother in texture than our favorites. This product, which contains PROTEIN: 20 g FAT: 17 g SODIUM: 540 mg SUGAR: 1 g
egg white, is vegetarian but not vegan. COMMENTS: These slightly soft, pink burgers looked more like
salmon patties or turkey burgers than beef burgers both when
DR. PRAEGER’S Perfect Burger raw and once cooked. Instead of tasting beefy, they were
sweet and “artificially” savory. Their exteriors browned nicely.
PRICE: $4.59 for 8 oz ($9.18 per lb)
FORMAT: Patties PROTEIN: 20 g GARDEIN Ultimate Beefless Burger
FAT: 13 g SODIUM: 380 mg SUGAR: 0 g
COMMENTS: Although these patties are big, tall, PRICE: $4.79 for 12 oz ($6.39 per lb) FORMAT: Patties
and reddish purple like our favorites when uncooked, PROTEIN: 19 g FAT: 7 g SODIUM: 426 mg SUGAR: 1 g
they were still vibrant red once cooked. Their texture COMMENTS: Although they didn’t taste much like beef, these burgers
was soft throughout, reminding tasters of an undercooked burger. weren’t short on flavor. They were intensely sweet and savory, like
The flavor was mild and a little sweet, likely due to the added vegetable purees. “burnt vegetables and soy sauce” or a funky “teriyaki sauce.”
Thin and small, the burgers were dwarfed by a hamburger bun.

Web subscribers can access the full tasting results at CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20.

july & august 2020

27

INGREDIENT NOTES

j BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREA GEARY & ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

Tasting Sweet Vermouth How to Buy, Prep, and Store Lemongrass

Make the most of lemongrass with the following tips. –S.D.

BUYING
Since the bulk of lemongrass’s flavor is in the lower part of the stalk,
particularly its bulbous base, it is typically sold trimmed of much of its
leafy top. Look for stalks that are firm, not rubbery, with fat bottoms
and green tops and outer leaves that aren’t too desiccated (indicating a
longer time in storage).

Sweet vermouth is both an essential ingredient for Manhattans, Negronis, PREPPING
and other cocktails and a wonderful drink that can be enjoyed on its own. Trim about an inch from the hard, woody base and enough of the stiff
More vermouths are imported to the United States from Europe now than green top to leave about 6 inches of stalk. Peel away the tough outer
ever before. With such a wealth of sweet vermouths available to consum- leaves (usually three or four layers) to reach the tender, pale inner
ers, we decided to take a closer look at some of the most prominent and core. Whether you mince this inner core or leave it whole depends
commonly available sweet vermouths from Italy, France, and Spain. on the application.
When lemongrass will be removed before serving (including in
Tasting the sweet vermouths neat helped us immediately realize how soups and broths): Crush prepped stalk with meat mallet, side of knife,
different they all were, especially in color, body, and flavor. We think all or other tool to release essential oils; cut into lengths.
the sweet vermouths we tasted are worth trying. With this in mind, we When lemongrass will be consumed in dish (including in marinades
chose to forgo our usual rankings. Instead, we took a closer look at the and spice pastes): Mince prepped stalk or slice thin.
vermouths made within each region. While vermouths can vary significantly
even within those regions, we’ve provided tasting notes that identify the STORING UNTRIMMED
common traits of the products we tried. With this information, you can
decide which product best suits your needs and preferences. Because In the refrigerator: Wrap untrimmed stalks
each product is distinctive and unique, we encourage you to experiment
with different products to find the ones you like on their own or in the tightly in plastic wrap or aluminum foil and store TRIMMED
cocktails you make most often. Almost every product we tasted costs less
than $20 and will last a long time if refrigerated after opening, making the for up to 2 weeks.
purchase of sweet vermouth a relatively inexpensive foray into a very deep,
time-honored tradition. –Miye Bromberg In the freezer:

Whole: Trim green tops from stalks, wrap stalks in plastic, then seal

in zipper-lock bag. Freeze for up to 3 months. Thaw briefly before using.

Ground: Make paste in mortar and pestle or food processor and freeze in

1-tablespoon mounds on plate. Transfer frozen portions to zipper-lock bag.

No need to thaw before using.

Nigella Awesome

Judging by their many colloquial names, tiny black nigella

ITALIAN FRENCH SPANISH seeds are one of the most-confused flavorings on the spice
Dark, heavy/ Light in color and Medium-bodied;
syrupy, warm consistency, winey color varies; flavor rack, referred to variously as “black cumin,” “black caraway,”
spices, pronounced and tart, less sweet, is similar to sherry:
nuts and dried fruits, “onion seed,” and “black sesame.” Though they share some
bitterness less bitter good acidity, medium
flavor and aroma notes with these other spices, they’re not
sweetness
closely related to any of them. Instead, the seeds, which are NIGELLA SEEDS
used throughout the Middle East, North Africa, and South Oniony and aromatic
Asia, are harvested from Nigella sativa, a plant native to the

Mediterranean. Besides the aforementioned flavors, they feature piney, menthol notes,

along with an underlying bitterness that helps explain why they’re almost always left

whole. (When they’re ground, their bitterness predominates.)

In the Middle East, nigella seeds are added to breads and baked goods to give

them a savory boost. In India (where they’re called kalonji), they’re often added to

naan. In Armenian cuisine, the spice is used to flavor string cheese. And in eastern

India (Bengal), Bangladesh, and Nepal, nigella is one element in the five-spice

mixture panch phoran (along with equal parts fenugreek, cumin, black mustard

Brands to Try: Brands to Try: Brands to Try: seeds, and fennel seeds) and is often used to flavor stews.
Cocchi and Cinzano Dolin and Noilly Prat Lustau and Yzaguirre
But don’t stop there. Nigella seeds can add an herby-oniony flavor to all sorts of

dishes. Try sprinkling them over salad, vegetables (potato dishes especially), or fish

Web subscribers can see the full tasting results at CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20. or adding them to rice pilaf, lentils, and chicken or lamb braises. –A.J.

cook’s illustrated

28

Subbing Plant-Based Meat for the Real Stuff DIY RECIPE

Our new favorite plant-based meat is the Impossible Burger, a product created to look Spicy Tomato Jam
and taste like ground beef. We found it remarkably similar to the real thing in our tasting
(page 25). Ounce for ounce, the Impossible Burger has the same amount of protein Tomatoes are rich in glutamates, and
as ground beef. That said, it sheds less moisture and fat, and the company claims that a when cooked down with fish sauce,
12-ounce package can be substituted for every pound of real ground beef called for in they provide a powerful umami
a recipe. We tested the Impossible Burger in three common ground-beef applications, punch. Sugar and vinegar supply a
comparing an ounce-for-ounce swap along with a swap using a 3:4 ratio, and found that sweet-and-sour balance while garlic,
a single package wasn’t always enough. Read on for our recommendations for how best ginger, and jalapeño give this jam a
to substitute this product in recipes calling for ground beef. –S.D. spicy finish. –Elizabeth Carduff

BURGERS SPICY TOMATO JAM

SWAP RATIO: We recommend a 1:1 sub by MAKES ABOUT TWO 1-CUP JARS
weight. Three-ounce patties instead of standard TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES,
4-ounce burgers felt a little skimpy, even though PLUS 24 HOURS CHILLING
the patties barely shrank during cooking.
COOKING TIME: The burgers browned and lost For a spicier jam, add the reserved 1. Combine tomatoes; sugar; vin-
their internal pinkness rapidly. Start checking for jalapeño seeds. The star anise pods egar; fish sauce; garlic; jalapeño (and
doneness in half the time the recipe suggests. add a subtle licorice-like flavor, but reserved seeds, if desired); ginger;
IDEAL DONENESS: Cook the burgers to at least medium (135 degrees) to avoid a pasty they can be omitted, if desired. Serve and star anise, if using, in 12-inch
texture. Taking them to an even higher temperature is fine—this product hangs on to this jam over eggs, on sandwiches, or nonstick skillet. Bring to boil over high
moisture remarkably well. on crackers with a pungent cheese. heat. Reduce heat to medium-high
OTHER TIPS: To avoid sticking, cook in a well-oiled nonstick or carbon-steel skillet. and simmer, stirring often, until mix-
2 pounds plum tomatoes, ture is thickened and has darkened in
MEATLOAF cored and cut into ½-inch color, 25 to 30 minutes.
pieces
SWAP RATIO: We recommend a 1:1 sub by 2. Discard star anise, if using.
weight. Less than that and the loaf was too 1¼ cups sugar Mash jam with potato masher to even
small, despite not shrinking much during ¾ cup red wine vinegar consistency. Continue to simmer until
cooking. An ounce-for-ounce swap made ¼ cup fish sauce rubber spatula or wooden spoon
for a denser loaf, but some tasters actually leaves distinct trail when dragged
preferred this tighter texture. Follow this same advice for meatballs. 6 garlic cloves, minced across bottom of skillet, 5 to 10 min-
COOKING TIME: Start checking for doneness in half the time the recipe suggests. 1 large jalapeño chile, utes longer. Transfer jam to two 1-cup
IDEAL DONENESS: Cook the meatloaf to at least 160 degrees to avoid a pasty texture. jars and let cool completely. Cover
A higher temp (even up to 200 degrees) won’t noticeably impact moistness or flavor. stemmed, seeds reserved, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours
and minced before serving. (Jam can be refriger-
1 tablespoon grated ated for up to 3 weeks.)
fresh ginger
2 star anise pods (optional)

CHILI Should You Cook with Avocado Oil?
SWAP RATIO: Twelves ounces per pound of ground
beef is acceptable and will still allow a chili (or other Some cooks have started bypassing olive oil and reaching
stew) to seem plenty meaty.
COOKING TIME: Cook for 30 minutes to allow for avocado oil instead. The fact that it’s rich in healthy
flavors to meld and product to cook through.
OTHER TIPS: Watch the pot carefully when browning this product, as it develops a dark fats and antioxidants, with a nutritional profile similar to
fond rapidly. Because the Impossible Burger doesn’t release juices or fat, add extra
liquid to the pot to achieve the same consistency as chili made with real ground beef. that of olive oil, is likely part of the attraction, but we

HOW TO PREP A MELON wanted to know how it performed in recipes.

Follow these steps to prep the melons for our Food-grade avocado oil comes in two forms: EXTRA-VIRGIN
salads on page 15. –A.G. cold-pressed extra-virgin or refined. Tasted plain, the

1. Wash melon with soap and water. extra-virgin avocado oil had a pleasant buttery, grassy
2. Cut small slice off each end of melon. 
3. Stand melon on 1 end. Holding top of melon flavor similar to that of the fresh fruit. Those under-
with 1 hand, carefully slice off rind in sections
from top to bottom, rotating melon as you go.  stated flavors were a bit hard to detect when we subbed
4. Cut peeled melon in half. For seeded melons,
using spoon, scoop out seeds.  it for extra-virgin olive oil in vinaigrette. Instead, we’d
5. Cut melon into slabs of desired thickness.
Lay each slab on its side and cut into chunks. recommend using it as a finishing oil for drizzling over

mild-tasting foods such as fish.

As for the refined avocado oil, its neutral taste made it REFINED
a seamless swap for vegetable oil in chiffon cake and for

frying doughnuts. Its smoke point can also go as high as 500 degrees—higher than

any other cooking oil—which makes it a good choice for searing or sautéing.

In sum: Use extra-virgin avocado oil as you would a premium extra-virgin olive

oil and reserve it for drizzling. The refined stuff will work well in any applica-

tion that calls for a neutral-tasting oil (but note that it will cost a lot more—the

refined avocado oil we tasted from Wellsley Farms costs $0.32 per ounce, com-

pared with $0.12 per ounce for our favorite vegetable oil from Crisco). –A.G.

july & august 2020

29

KITCHEN NOTES

j BY CAMILA CHAPARRO, LEAH COLINS, STEVE DUNN & ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

What This kitchen tool is a 1970s-era egg Get the Most out of a Mortar and Pestle
is it slicer manufactured in Bulgaria. Unlike
We love a good mortar and pestle (see our winner on page 32). It’s a versatile tool
the clamshell style long popular in the United that can do everything from smashing garlic to a paste to pulverizing whole spices to
breaking up nuts into smaller pieces. The crushing action of the pestle is also better
States, this 4 by 4-inch upright design cuts eggs than the blades of the food processor at extracting aromatic compounds from fresh,
moist ingredients such as those in a curry paste or pesto. Follow these best practices
into wedges versus slices. To use it, you place a to make the most of this tool. –S.D.

peeled hard-cooked egg in the flower-like plastic

cup at its base. Depressing the finger pads on

either side of the wires pushes them through the PREP THE INGREDIENTS

egg in a smooth, Toast whole spices or Slice tough or fibrous
nuts so they’ll be dry foods thin against grain to
satisfying motion and brittle and break shorten fibers so they can
apart more readily. be mashed more easily.
to create six even wedges. Best of all,

the spring-loaded cutter then lifts the egg

from the base of the “well” like a gift on

a pedestal. Not only was the tool simple

to use, it also produced wedges that were WIELD THE PESTLE MULTIPLE WAYS

perfectly pristine every time—something

I was unable to achieve even with a very

sharp knife. –S.D.

DIY Goo Gone POWERFUL TRIO

Commercial products such as Goo Citrus essential oil, baking
soda, and vegetable oil
Gone are effective at removing sticky POUND: First, use SCRAPE: Gently pound GRIND: Move pestle in
vigorous up-down and “rake” ingredients circular motion, pushing
adhesive from surfaces, but they motion to break up toward you to further pieces against mortar’s
large pieces. break down pieces. walls, to pulverize.
contain harsh chemicals that many
COVER MORTAR:
of us want to avoid. We searched the Prevent hard ingre-
dients from flying
internet for DIY alternatives and found out by loosely
draping bowl with
that the most commonly cited formula dish towel. KEEP IT NEAT

contained coconut oil, baking soda, DON’T OVERFILL: If ingredients ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE (TOP LEFT AND OPPOSITE PAGE), JAY LAYMAN (TOP RIGHT)
fill more than one-third of mortar,
and orange (or lemon) essential oil. Curious if all three components were work in batches. This will also allow
you to move pestle more efficiently
necessary, we did an elimination test to isolate what each was doing. Turns and vigorously, and there’s no risk of
items spilling from bowl.
out each ingredient has an important chemical function in addition to making

unique contributions to the mix: The oil dissolves fat-soluble adhesives and

holds the paste together, alkaline baking soda helps break down the adhesive

and acts as a mild abrasive, and the compound limonene in orange essential

oil (a common additive in industrial cleaners) is a powerful solvent that helps

lift off the goo while also bringing a pleasant fragrance to the mixture. A Better Way to Soften Ice Cream in the
Microwave
We swapped the solid coconut oil for vegetable oil (which made the paste
The best way to soften ice cream, hands down, is to put it in the fridge for 30 min-
easier to apply) and played around with proportions until we hit a combo we utes. The temperature difference between the ice cream and the cold air around it
is more moderate than on the counter, so it will soften evenly from edge to edge.
liked. Applied to the residue left behind by labels on glass jars and allowed The microwave is usually the worst option, leading to ice cream with liquid edges
and a rock-hard center. But you can avoid that outcome by microwaving the carton
to sit for a few minutes, this DIY mixture did a remarkably good job of at 50 percent power. Microwaves penetrate only the outer ¼ to 1 inch of food. Any
time you decrease the power level, it decreases the amount of time the appliance is
removing the goo. on, which gives heat time to disperse away from the surface and toward the center.
We found that heating ice cream at 50 percent power for 10 to 60 seconds (how
To make DIY adhesive remover: long will depend on the microwave oven) and checking every 10 seconds to see if
Stir together ½ cup of baking soda, ¼ cup of the center was sufficiently soft (about 8 degrees is ideal) did the trick, leaving only a
vegetable oil, and 6 drops of citrus essential narrow ring of melted ice cream around the edges.
oil in a container with a lid. To remove sticky
adhesive residue from glass, plastic, or metal When we want a perfect scoop for company, we’ll soften ice cream in the fridge.
surfaces, apply ½ teaspoon of the paste But when time is of the essence, this method will do just fine. –A.J.
to the residue, let it sit for 10 minutes, and
then rub with a damp towel for 1 minute
before rinsing with warm water. –S.D.

cook’s illustrated

30

Beyond the Lattice SCIENCE Dilution Is the Solution to Chilling

Weaving a lattice is the classic way to top a pie with a juicy filling. Its open structure There’s a myth that large ice cubes chill drinks just as effectively as small
lets moisture evaporate during baking, so the filling thickens to the right consistency. cubes while diluting them less, since they don’t melt as readily. This thinking
But it’s also fun to shake things up with more unusual designs. In the alternatives ignores one of the basic laws of thermodynamics: Ice must melt in order to
below, be sure the dough is chilled so that it holds a sharp edge. Avoid overlapping chill a liquid—and the more it melts, the colder the liquid will get. We set up
more than two pieces so that the dough will cook through properly. –C.C. and L.C. a few tests to demonstrate this dynamic.

FREE-FORM CUTOUTS To prove the critical role of dilution, we placed a single large ice cube in each
of two glasses of 67-degree tap water. We wrapped one of the cubes tightly
12 in plastic wrap to trap melted water and left the other cube unwrapped. Even
without stirring (which we avoided so as not to hasten dilution), the temperature
of the water containing the unwrapped cube plunged almost 20 degrees in the
first minute, while the water with the wrapped cube dropped just 4 degrees.
After 10 minutes, their temperatures were still more than 10 degrees apart,
with the diluted water at 41 degrees and the undiluted water at 52 degrees.

1. Start with 13 by 10½-inch rectangle of chilled dough. Using
3-inch cookie cutters (you can use different shapes), cut out as
many shapes as possible. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 2. Arrange
cutouts evenly over fruit, leaving space for evaporation and being
careful not to overlap more than 2 cutouts. Brush with egg wash.

FREE-FORM WEDGES 2

1

1. Start with 13 by 10½-inch rectangle of chilled dough. DEGREES (F)Next, to show the impact of ice cube size, we placed 3 small cubes in one glass
Cut into two 10½-inch-long triangles with ½-inch base, two of 67-degree water and 1 large cube totaling the same weight in a second glass
10½-inch-long triangles with 1-inch base, two 10½-inch-long of 67-degree water. It took a little more than a minute for the temperature of
triangles with 2-inch base, and two 10½-inch-long triangles with the water containing the small cubes to plunge well below 40 degrees, eventu-
3-inch base. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 2. Arrange triangles ally leveling off. Meanwhile, the temperature of the water with the large cube
decoratively over filling, with base of each triangle placed at least never got below a comparatively tepid 43 degrees, even after 10 minutes.
½ inch beyond edge of plate (to anchor pieces) and being careful
not to overlap more than 2 triangles. Trim overhang to ½ inch 70 3 small cubes
beyond lip of plate, then pinch edges of bottom crust and trian- 1 large cube
gles together firmly to seal. Fold edge of dough under itself and
crimp dough evenly around edge of plate. Brush with egg wash. 50

BRAIDED STRIPS 2 30

1 10

1. Start with 13 by 10-inch rectangle of chilled dough. 3 6 9 12
Cut eighteen 13 by ½-inch strips. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. MINUTES
Arrange 3 strips side by side on counter (keep remaining strips
refrigerated), then pinch tops to seal. 2. Braid strips as tightly TAKEAWAY
as possible, then pinch ends to secure braid. Refrigerate while Dilution is not only an inevitable part of chilling a drink with ice—it’s essential.
braiding remaining strips. Arrange braids evenly over filling, (Even in the test with the wrapped cube, the ice needed to melt inside the
then trim overhang to ½ inch beyond lip of plate. Pinch braids plastic wrap to cool the water outside it.) That’s because ice doesn’t directly
and bottom crust together firmly to seal. Fold edge of dough transfer its cold to a surrounding liquid. Instead heat, or energy, is drawn from
under itself and crimp dough evenly around edge of plate. the water and used to melt the surface of the ice. Since a greater surface area
Brush with egg wash. of ice means energy can be transferred faster, smaller ice cubes are much more
efficient than large cubes at cooling a liquid.

BOTTOM LINE: If you are interested in superchilling a drink such as iced
tea (see page 21) quickly, use small ice cubes. For a less chilled (and less
diluted) beverage such as an old-fashioned (where an overly cold tempera-
ture will mask flavors), use large cubes. –A.J.

july & august 2020

31

EQUIPMENT CORNER

j BY MIYE BROMBERG, RIDDLEY GEMPERLEIN−SCHIRM, LAUREN SAVOIE & KATE SHANNON g

Mortars and Pestles Portable Outdoor Pizza Ovens

A mortar and pestle is a low-tech multitasker, allow- You can make great pizza in a home oven,

ing you to blitz whole spices into powder and grind but because the temperatures of most

wet ingredients into pastes and sauces. We’ve long top out at 500 degrees, you can’t

thought that the quality of the foods produced by get truly professional-quality results.

a mortar (the bowl) and pestle (the club) are supe- For that, you need a temperature of

rior in flavor and texture to foods that come out 700 degrees or more. One option is
of a food processor. Plus, there are only two parts
to clean and no sharp blades to nick yourself on. H I G H LY purchasing a portable outdoor pizza
RECOMMENDED
oven, so we rounded up and tested six

We tested seven models, using them to grind pep- FRIELING GOLIATH models, making dozens of thin-crust
percorns to different levels of coarseness, to make Natural Stone Mortar &
garam masala from whole spices, and to make pesto. Pestle and Neopolitan-style pizzas in each to find the H I G H LY
best. Our favorite model was the propane-fired Ooni RECOMMENDED
The Frieling Goliath Natural Stone Mortar & PRICE: $57.95
Koda. The exposed flame at the rear of its oven cav-
Pestle (model C420128) was the biggest, heaviest, and best we tested. The nearly ity heated its baking stone to 750-plus degrees, so it OONI Koda
cooked pizzas quickly. In addition to producing chewy
12-pound granite mortar sat rooted to the counter; its coarse-textured interior PRICE: $299.00

allowed us to grind dry spices to fine powders and wet ingredients to smooth pastes thin-crust pizzas as well as light, airy Neapolitan-style pizzas, it was by far the most

more quickly than any other model. Its heavy pestle ably smashed garlic and reduced user-friendly model to operate and the smallest and easiest model to assemble,

whole spices to smithereens. One tiny gripe: The pestle could be a bit longer; our transport, and put away after use. At about $300, it’s considerably less expensive

hands sometimes hit the rim of the mortar while pounding ingredients. –M.B. than our favorite countertop pizza oven, the Breville Smart Oven Pizzaiolo, and

most of the other outdoor pizza ovens that we tested. –K.S.

Car Camping Stoves Nest Protect Fire and CO Alarm

For some campers, a good car camping stove

(referred to as such since you take it in your If you’ve ever set off your smoke alarm while cook-

car to your campsite) is as essential as a warm ing, the appeal of the Google Nest Protect is real.

sleeping bag. To find the best stove, we tested Available in both battery-powered and hardwired

eight models. Most were powered by propane versions, this “smart” smoke and carbon monoxide

gas, but one required isopropane-butane and alarm connects to your home Wi-Fi network, so it

another could be operated with either propane H I G H LY can alert you via your phone or tablet when it senses
or butane. We also included one camp stove fueled RECOMMENDED
by wood. On all the stoves we boiled water, made smoke or carbon monoxide. Once you get the alert, H I G H LY
beef chili, prepared scrambled eggs, cooked bacon, CAMP CHEF Mountain RECOMMENDED
and made pancakes. One stove outperformed all the Series Everest High you can silence the alarm from your device if the
others. The propane-powered Camp Chef Mountain Pressure Two-Burner
Series Everest High Pressure Two-Burner Stove Stove risk is not serious—no more climbing up on a lad- GOOGLE Nest Protect
(model MS2HP), which had the highest heat output der or poking around with a broomstick to stop the
PRICE: $171.99 screeching, as you might with a conventional alarm. PRICE: $119.00

This alarm was easy to install, and its app was simple to set up, navigate, and use.

The unit did a great job of distinguishing between low and high volumes of smoke, and

of any of the models we tested—20,000 BTU per burner—got ripping hot and its alerts and alarms were relatively easy to silence through the app, though occasion-

boiled water in just 4 minutes. The two burners were controlled by clearly labeled ally we had to wait a minute or two to receive the alerts or move closer to the unit to

knobs, and it was easy to adjust the heat to gently simmer chili or cook pancakes. Its silence them. If your Wi-Fi goes out, the alarm will continue to function as usual, but

cooking surface was roomy enough to accommodate two skillets at a time, and its it will not be able to send alerts to your phone (though you will still hear the alarm if it

built-in backsplash and windscreen helped contain splatters and protect the flames detects smoke). Its night-light, automatic testing of its battery life and sensors, and abil-

from the elements. It was effortless to set up, lighted easily with an automatic igniter, ity to connect with other Nest Protects are all big bonuses. It also complies with the

and folded up compactly for easy carrying. –L.S. standards set by UL, a global safety certification company. –M.B.

UPDATE Yeti Tundra Haul H I G H LY
RECOMMENDED
A good cooler is a key summer accessory. However, our favorite large cooler, the Yeti Tundra 45,

weighs 25 pounds empty, which can be heavy for one person to lift comfortably. The solution? The YETI Tundra Haul
Yeti Tundra Haul promises the same durability and insulation as Yeti’s other coolers, but with better
portability thanks to wheels and a long handle. This cooler has many of the same features we loved PRICE: $399.99

in the other Tundra models: sturdy rubber latches, a heavy lid, and incredible cold retention. The wheel wells barely cut into its

interior storage space, and it accommodated a weekend’s worth of groceries for four with room to spare. To test portability,

we carried the fully loaded cooler up and down stairs; lifted it in and out of the trunk of a car; and wheeled it across concrete,

gravel, dirt, and grass. One caveat: This model weighs 37 pounds empty, yet the wheels and long handle made it much

easier to move than the wheel-less Tundra 45. For a cooler that has the same rugged durability as other Yeti coolers but

more portability, the Yeti Tundra Haul is a great option. –R.G.S.

Complete results available at CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20 cook’s illustrated

32

INDEX

July & August 2020

MAIN DISHES
Corn Risotto 9
Grilled Chicken Satay 7
Moroccan Fish Tagine 11

[FOR TWO: ONLINE]

Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato
Sauce and Fried Caper Crumbs 13

Smashed Burgers 5
Spanish Migas with Fried Eggs 12

Smashed Burgers 5 SIDE DISH Grilled Chicken Satay 7
Grilled Stone Fruit 19 Grilled Stone Fruit 1 9
Honeydew Salad with Peanuts and Lime 15
Beer Ingredients SALADS Corn Risotto 9
Cantaloupe Salad with Olives
Beer is the alchemical result of converting cereal grain
starch to sugar (“malting”); steeping the grain in hot and Red Onion 15
water (“mashing”); and then boiling, fermenting, and Grilled Peach and Tomato Salad
packaging the liquid. Malted barley is the most common
form of malt; typically, brewers use a large proportion of with Burrata and Basil 19
pale, delicate “base malt” such as GERMAN PILS and Honeydew Salad with Peanuts and
complement it with darker, sweeter specialty malts such
as CARAMEL or CHOCOLATE to add color and Lime 15
character. WHEAT and RYE, which are sold whole or Watermelon Salad with Cotija
flaked, are used in combination with barley as “adjunct
grains.” The former brings lighter color and fuller body; and Serrano Chiles 15
the latter, distinct spiciness. Often, brews are seasoned
with ORANGE PEELS (other citrus may also be used), D E S S E RT S Spanish Migas with Fried Eggs 12
COFFEE, VANILLA, or spices such as CORIANDER. Grilled Nectarines with Crisp
During fermentation, YEAST consumes sugars from the
strained liquid (“wort”) and converts it to beer by creating Almond Topping and
alcohol, carbon dioxide, and a range of complex flavors. Ice Cream 19
HOPS—flowers that look like artichokes when fresh and
rabbit food pellets when processed and dried—impart Homemade Chocolate Magic
distinct bitterness and a wide range of aromas. Brewers Shell 17
add them at varying intervals: early in the boiling phase to
infuse maximum bitterness and sometimes again after fer- Quick Candied Nuts 17
mentation to extract the plant’s more delicate aromas. Sweet Cream Ice Cream 17

Peanut Butter Cup Crunch 17
Strawberry Ripple 17
Vanilla Bean 17
White Coffee Chip 17

NEW! America’s Test Kitchen Ginger-Pomegranate Iced Black Tea 21 BEVERAGES Spicy Tomato Jam 29
Kids Young Chefs’ Club! Iced Black Tea 21

Get monthly themed boxes filled with Ginger-Pomegranate 21
kid-tested, kid-approved recipes and hands-on Raspberry-Basil 21
STEAM activities. The Young Chefs’ Club will Iced Green Tea 21
inspire families to spend quality time together Cantaloupe-Mint 21
in the kitchen—and a lifetime of tasty cooking. Cucumber-Lime 21
To sign up, visit ATKkids.com⁄CI.

America’s Test Kitchen Online CONDIMENTS AND SYRUP
Cooking School Grilled Plum and Ginger Chutney 19
Preserved Lemons 11
Visit our online cooking school today, where Rich Simple Syrup 21
we offer 300+ online lessons covering a range of Spicy Tomato Jam 29
recipes and cooking methods. Start a 14-day free 24-Hour Preserved Lemons 11
trial at OnlineCookingSchool.com.
ONLINE CONTENT at
Cook’s Illustrated on iPad CooksIllustrated.com/AUG20

Enjoy Cook’s Illustrated wherever you are, when-
ever you want. Go to CooksIllustrated.com⁄iPad
to download our app through iTunes.

Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce 13 Moroccan Fish Tagine 11

BACK COVER ILLUSTRATED BY JOHN BURGOYNE PHOTOGRAPHY: STEVE KLISE, CARL TREMBLAY; STYLING: CHANTAL LAMBETH, ASHLEY MOORE