Khlong Bang Luang
Khlong Bang Luang 3 Wat Khuha Sawan 4 Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market 6 Artist House Bangkok 8 Khlong Bang Luang Museum 18 Wat Kamphaeng Community’s Herbal Garden 19 Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak 20 Wat Thong Sala Ngam 22 Wat Yang Bang Chak 23 Wat Nuannoradit 24 Wat Pradu Chimphli 26 Wat Pradu Nai Songtham 28 Khlong Bang Luang Scholar 30 Tourist Destinations 31 Food Shops / Cafés 32 Accommodations 34 Facilities 34 Local Stores 34 Recommended Activities 35 Festival Schedule 35 Emergency Telephone Numbers 36 2 Khlong Bang Luang
Khlong Bang Luang, officially known as Khlong Bangkok Yai, is a canal that has existed since the Ayutthaya period. Initially, it was part of the Chao Phraya River. It became a canal only after a shortcut was created to shorten the distance of boat trips between Bangkok and Ayutthaya. Khlong Bangkok Yai is also widely referred to as Khlong Bang Luang following King Taksin the Great’s decision to establish Thon Buri as the new capital of Siam. In response to the establishment, senior officials and many commoners decided to build their houses along the canal’s banks because the location was close to the royal palace of the Thon Buri period. Their moves prompted locals to start calling this canal Khlong Bang Kha-luang, which meant the town of courtiers. The name was later shortened to Khlong Bang Luang. Located by Khlong Bang Luang, the Khlong Bang Luang community features canal-side wooden rowhouses. Their porches are made of wooden boards that interconnect and form a long walkway. In the past, this community and its market were vibrant because the canal connected the Chao Phraya River to nearby canals. However, after roads were constructed, water transportation declined in importance. Over time, the once vibrant commercial hub had transformed into a tranquil residential area. Today, Khlong Bang Luang has become famous again – but this time as a cultural attraction. The wooden rowhouses in the area have been beautifully restored. There are also puppet shows at the Artist House Bangkok. As the local tranquil community opens its doors to visitors, it turns lively. People come here to admire the charm of artworks, temples, and the community ways of life along both banks of Khlong Bang Luang. Khlong Bang Luang Khlong Bang Luang 3
Wat Khuha Sawan Located by Khlong Bang Luang, this ancient temple – initially known as Wat Sala Si Na – was constructed in the Ayutthaya period. During his reign, King Buddha Yot Fa Chulalok the Great (King Rama I) declared this temple as a royal monastery and renamed it Wat Khuha Sawan. Because the temple later became dilapidated over time, King Nang Klao (King Rama III) ordered the restoration of the entire monastery in his reign. A key structure of Wat Khuha Sawan is a four-gable pavilion, which is called Sala Si Na in Thai. The original name of the temple is believed to have come from this pavilion. Enshrined in this pavilion are an attired standing Buddha image, an attired sitting Buddha image, an image of Phra Buddha Thewanaruemit Pichitman, and a statue of King Taksin the Great. The Tripitaka hall of this temple is high and features exquisite murals in the style popular during the late Ayutthaya period. 4 Khlong Bang Luang
Adjacent is a chapel where a statue of Luang Pho Phong Dhammachotiko or Phra Khru Wisutthisanthera is enshrined. The late monk was not just a former abbot of Wat Khuha Sawan but he was also a famous monk in Thon Buri. Wat Khuha Sawan, moreover, used to house Phra Buddha Thewapatimakorn, now the main Buddha image of Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram or Wat Pho. Khlong Bang Luang 5
Located by Khlong Bang Luang, this floating market is also in itself a community. With artisanship as its strength, it is perfect destination for people and tourists who want to wind down and absorb the canalside atmosphere. Highlights at Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market include local traditional houses, stalls, restaurants, souvenir shops, and community exhibitions. Art activities are also available for tourists to join in at the Artist House Bangkok, where artworks are on display. The venue, moreover, offers free puppet shows. Reflecting Thai culture, such ecotourism activities attract Thai and foreign tourists alike. Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market 6 Khlong Bang Luang
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Artist House Bangkok Operating as both a gallery and a coffee shop, the Artist House Bangkok has brought together the arts and art lovers. It is located inside a wooden two-storey house with a Dutch gable roof. The building has an L-shape layout plan with an ancient stupa in the middle of its compound. It is presumed that this stupa is one of the four stupas used to mark the boundary of Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak. The current house owner, Mr. Chumpol Akkapantanon, bought the house from the Raksamruat family who are goldsmiths. Recognizing the importance of this house’s heritage, he has kept the structure in its original condition and used it as the Artist House Bangkok. Presently, the Artist House Bangkok is an ecotourism attraction. On the second floor of the house is a gallery zone where art exhibitions are held. Exhibited are both drawings and photos. On the first floor is a corner for selling books, souvenirs, and coffee, and a corner for art workshops – drawing, coloring, mask painting, stucco molding, accessory making, and ancient printing techniques. The Artist House Bangkok opens its door to tourists and art lovers to indulge in the art experience and, through its many activities, show off their artistic skills. Moreover, the Khamnai troupe performs free puppet shows at this venue at 14.00 hrs on Saturdays and Sundays. The Artist House Bangkok therefore is a learning center on arts that should be conserved and kept alive for Thai society. 8 Khlong Bang Luang
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Khlong Bang Luang Museum This small museum has compiled historical evidence about the Kamphaeng Thong Phattana Community or the Community of Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market. Its exhibition tells of the community’s history. The museum operates inside a small wooden house located by Khlong Bang Luang. Built in traditional Thai style, the building has long window panels that, when opened, allow wind to blow in and lower the heat. Placed on wooden shelves and inside cabinets are age-old utensils that remain in good condition. Included are usable electrical appliances from the olden days. The Khlong Bang Luang Museum also compiles various collections of ancient Buddha images. Here visitors can look into the past via these old items. 18 Khlong Bang Luang
Wat Kamphaeng Community’s Herbal Garden Located near both Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak Community and Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market, this herbal garden represents a treasure trove of knowledge about Thai herbs and rare indigenous herbal plants, which it shares with locals. It, moreover, serves as a learning center for students studying Community Architecture at Silpakorn University. For those who want to relax – be they locals or tourists – this tranquil green corner is a perfect spot for unwinding and strolling. Opposite the garden is HIDE AND SEED, a small community pier with canoe rental services. Tourists can rent a canoe at the hourly rate of 50 baht so that they can admire the canal-side view from the boat. This service provider also integrates creative activities. If tourists return their canoe with waste they collected from the canal, their rental fee will drop by 50 percent to just 25 baht an hour. Khlong Bang Luang 19
Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak There is no evidence of when this ancient temple that sits on a bank of Khlong Bang Luang was constructed. But in the early Rattanakosin period, it was restored and came under the patronage of a courtier of Chinese descent. Inscriptions at the temple’s round stupa say the sacred structure was built in his remembrance and to contain his relics. Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak would later underwent several restorations especially in the reigns of King Rama III and King Chulalongkorn the Great (King Rama V). The most important building at this monastery is its ordination hall. Made of bricks and mortar, it embraces traditional Thai architectural details. Murals inside the hall reflect beliefs in the Buddhist cosmos and the cycle of death and rebirth. Enshrined in the hall are Luang Pho Butsarakham, a Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara, and a Buddha image in the attitude of persuading relatives to stop quarreling. There are two chapels at this monastery. One of them houses a replica of Luang Pho Ban Laem image. In the other hall are three Buddha images: one in the attitude of controlling rain, another in the attitude of subduing Mara, and an attired image, which was a popular Buddhist art in the Rattanakosin period. 20 Khlong Bang Luang
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Wat Thong Sala Ngam Wat Thong Sala Ngam was previously known among locals as Wat Thong or Wat Lang. Built around 1757, it was a public temple. The royal endorsement for its status as a monastery was granted in the reign of King Rama III. It is believed that the temple was called Wat Thong Sala Ngam (literally Wat Thong with a beautiful pavilion in Thai) because local people who rowed their boats past its location noticed its stunning canal-side pier pavilion. The structure’s gable features exquisitely engraved wooden Nagas. Another attraction at Wat Thong Sala Ngam is its old ordination hall. Built in the style of the late Ayutthaya period, this traditional Thai building is a brick-and-mortar structure. Its main Buddha image is attired in the Thon Buri style. Inside its new ordination hall is Phra Buddha Rattanakosin, a Buddha image in the attitude of blessing. 22 Khlong Bang Luang
Wat Yang Bang Chak Wat Yang Bang Chak was built in the reign of King Rama III. Its name was derived from the fact that rubber trees – known in Thai as yang – mushroomed in the area in the past. To its south is Khlong Bang Chak, the name of the canal is thus integrated into the temple’s name too. At the time of the temple’s construction, Siam had solid trade ties with China. Chinese arts and culture were thus manifested widely in Siamese buildings. Influenced by Chinese architecture, Wat Yang Bang Chak’s ordination hall is made of bricks and mortar. It has neither a gable apex nor serrated ridges on the sloping edges of the gable. Enshrined in the ordination hall is a sacred Buddha image from the Ayutthaya period. Cast in the attitude of meditation, Luang Pho Nopphakao is widely known for inviting popularity. Locals and those who pray for his goodwill are reportedly blessed with luck. Every year, Wat Yang Bang Chak organizes the Luang Pho Nopphakao worship and gold-plating festival in April. Khlong Bang Luang 23
Located by Khlong Bang Luang on the canal’s inner portion, Wat Nuannoradit was initially called Wat Makok Nai (which means the inner Wat Makok) to pair with Wat Makok Nok (which means the outer Wat Makok, currently Wat Arun Ratchawararam or the Temple of the Dawn) that sits by the canal’s mouth. But Wat Makok Nai remained deserted for a long time before being restored by Chao Khun Phra Ratchaphan Nuan, wife of the military commander-in-chief in the reign of King Rama I. Subsequently, King Rama IV renamed the temple Wat Nuannoradit in honor of Chao Khun Phra Ratchaphan Nuan. Wat Nuannoradit 24 Khlong Bang Luang
The temple’s ordination hall houses a Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara. Other key structures in the temple are the stupa with four triple indented corners, the chapel, twin pavilions in front of the ordination hall and the sermon hall, which hosts various Buddhist activities for locals. Khlong Bang Luang 25
Wat Pradu Chimphli Wat Pradu Chimphli was originally known as Wat Chimphli. Locals, however, called it Wat Pradu Nok (meaning the outer Wat Pradu) to pair with Wat Pradu Nai (meaning the inner Wat Pradu) or Wat Pradu Nai Songtham. The original name of the temple stems from the fact that it is surrounded by red cotton trees – known as chimphli trees in Pali. The construction of Wat Pradu Chimphli started in the reign of King Rama III but was completed in the reign of King Rama IV. Later, the Phra Si Satsada image was brought from Phitsanulok to be enshrined here. Subsequently, King Rama IV decided that 26 Khlong Bang Luang
the Buddha image should be moved to Wat Bowonniwetwiharn instead. The relocation of the Buddha image made Wat Pradu Chimphli better known among the public. This occurred when Phra Ratchasangwaraphimon (Luang Pu Toh) was the temple’s abbot. His abbot tenure lasted 68 years. Known for his great manners and sedate behavior, this senior monk remains much revered. Thanks to restoration and conservation efforts, Wat Pradu Chimphli has always been in good condition with an inviting landscape for all types of religious activities. Interesting items and structures at the temple include a statue of Luang Pu Toh, a Mon-style stupa, and a large ordination hall. Khlong Bang Luang 27
Wat Pradu Nai Songtham 28 Khlong Bang Luang
Built in the late Ayutthaya period, this ancient temple is close to Wat Pradu Chimphli or Wat Pradu Nok. In 1757, its status as a temple officially received royal endorsement. The key architecture of Wat Pradu Nai Songtham is its junk ship-shape reinforced-concrete ordination hall, which was constructed in 1991. The principal Buddha image in the hall is in the attitude of subduing Mara. On both sides of this statue are images of Lord Buddha’s great disciples. Also enshrined in the hall is a life-size statue of Luang Pu Toh. In addition, there is a pavilion that houses several sacred images such as Phra Buddha Metta and statues of Luang Pu Thuat, Somdet Phra Buddhacharn (To Brahmaramsi), Luang Pho Pan, Luang Pho Chaem, Luang Pho Lueang, Luang Pho Rod Suea (a former abbot of Wat Pradu Nai Songtham), Guan Yin, Sun Wukong, Ai Khai, and Chao Pu Si Suttho the Naga King. Khlong Bang Luang 29
Khlong Bang Luang Scholar Mr. Thiranan Chuangpichit Mr. Thiranan is the founder of the Thon Buri History Information Center and the president of the Kadi Chin–Khlong San Community Foundation. Also, he is a key contributor to the revival of old communities and the conservation of cultural heritage, paving the way for people to understand more about the history of communities on both sides of the Chao Phraya River. With solid knowledge and ties with local communities, Mr. Thiranan has actively promoted “BIKE – WALK – TALK – BOAT” trips through old communities. He has led the tours himself by guiding participants through small alleys so that they can discover Bangkok’s secrets. His activities aim to spur community tourism, give a fresh perspective to Bangkok’s tourism, and distribute income across various communities by telling their century-old and more histories. In addition, Mr. Thiranan has highlighted various other activities about Thon Buri history to propagate historical knowledge and help people who are keen to learn about its history. 30 Khlong Bang Luang
Tourist Destinations Bang Wa Pier : Thoet Thai Road, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict : 06.00 - 19.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 1555 (Bangkok Metropolitan Administration) Khlong Bang Luang Floating Market : Soi Phet Kasem 20, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict : 09.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : ตลาดน้ำำ�คลองบางหลวงชุุมชนกำำ แพงทองพััฒนา Wat Thong Sala Ngam : Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 08 7097 4815 : วััดทองศาลางาม : Free entry Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak : Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 08 5123 4760, 09 4497 8519 : วััดกำำ แพงบางจาก : Free entry Wat Khuha Sawan : Soi Phet Kasem 28, Khuha Sawan Subdistrict : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 0 2458 1842 : วััดคููหาสวรรค์์วรวิิหาร : Free entry Wat Yang Bang Chak : Soi Phet Kasem 28, Wat Khuha Sawan Subdistrict : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 08 4118 7627 : Free entry Wat Pradu Nai Songtham : Soi Phet Kasem 15, Wat Tha Phra Subdistrict : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : วััดประดู่่�ในทรงธรรม : Free entry Wat Nuannoradit : Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict, Phasi Charoen District : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : วััดนวลนรดิิศวรวิิหาร : Free entry Wat Pradu Chimphli : Wat Tha Phra Subdistrict, Bangkok Yai District : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : วััดประดู่่�ฉิิมพลีี- หลวงปู่่�โต๊๊ะ : Free entry Artist House Bangkok : Soi Phet Kasem 28 : 10.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Monday - Tuesday) 09.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Wednesday - Friday) 09.00 - 19.00 hrs. (Saturday - Sunday) ☎ : 09 8097 0468 : บ้้านศิิลปิิน คลองบางหลวง Artist House Bangkok : Free entry Khlong Bang Luang Museum : Old Phet Kasem Road, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict : 10.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : Free entry Wat Kamphaeng Community’s Herbal Garden : Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 10.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : Free entry Khlong Bang Luang 31
Khun Aoi's Kitchen, Khlong Bang Luang : Food prices range between 80 and 300 baht. : Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 07.00 – 19.00 hrs. (Monday – Friday) 06.00 – 19.00 hrs. (Saturday – Sunday) ☎ : 0 2868 4781, 09 4497 8519 : ร้้านอาหารครััวคุุณอ๋๋อย Yai Rod’s Beef Noddle Shop : Food prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Phet Kasem 20, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict : 08.30 - 14.00 hrs. (Saturday – Sunday) : ก๋๋วยเตี๋๋�ยวเนื้้�อยายรอด Verygood Steakhouse : Food prices range between 39 and 399 baht. : Soi Phet Kasem 28, Wat Yang Bang Chak Pocket Park : 16.00 - 20.00 hrs. (Monday – Saturday) ☎ : 08 5174 7775 : Verygood Steakhouse Auntie Moo's Noodle Shop : Food prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 07.30 - 14.00 hrs. (Saturday – Thursday) Gochujang Sikdang Korean Restaurant : Food prices range between 101 and 250 baht. : Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict, Phasi Charoen District : 10.00 - 18.30 hrs. (Wednesday – Monday) ☎ : 09 3024 3169 : Gochujang Sikdang Food Shops / Cafés Yud Boi Noodle : Food prices range between 40 and 100 baht. : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 08.00 - 13.00 hrs. (Closed on uncertain days) ☎ : 08 1742 3681 'Auntie Lek' Khlong Bang Luang : Food prices range between 40 and 100 baht. : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 10.00 – 16.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 0 2467 4556, 08 3006 7645 : ข้้าวเหนีียวมะม่่วงป้้าหนููเล็็ก&ก๋๋วยจั๊๊�บน้ำำ�ข้้น คลองบางหลวง Ar Ma Duck Noodle : Food prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Phet Kasem 81/2 : 15.00 – 21.30 hrs. (Sunday – Friday) ☎ : 09 6093 5086 : ก๋๋วยเตี๋๋�ยวเป็็ดอาม่่า ปากซอยเพชรเกษม 81/2 Sor. Hoy Thot (Thai crispy mussel omelet, Pad Thai and steaks) : Food prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 09.30 – 19.00 hrs. (Sunday – Friday) ☎ : 09 5759 0028 : ส.หอยทอด ผััดไทย & สเต็็ก Betong Chicken Rice : Food prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 05.30 – 13.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 0 2457 4905 : ข้้าวมัันไก่่เบตง เพชรเกษม 20 32 Khlong Bang Luang
Muay Thai House : Prices are lower than 100 baht. : Khuha Sawan Subdistrict, Phasi Charoen District : 10.00 - 17.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 08 6711 5572 : บ้้านมวยไทย คลองบางหลวง Tonmai Suay, Coffee Khom, Kanom Aroi : Prices range between 35 and 60 baht. : Khuha Sawan Subdistrict, Phasi Charoen District : 06.00 - 16.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 08 1567 0010 Uncle Sia's Shop : Prices are lower than 100 baht. : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 05.30 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) Bangluang Coffee : Prices are lower than 100 baht. : Khuha Sawan Subdistrict, Phasi Charoen District : 10.00 - 17.00 hrs. (Everyday) Khlong Bang Luang 33
Accommodations Wild Ones Hostel : Soi Phet Kasem 28, Yaek 5, Khuha Sawan Subdistrict : 06 3313 8028 : Wild Ones Hostel Bang Luang House : Khlong Bangkok Yai, Wat Tha Phra Subdistrict ☎ : 08 9668 0808 : BangLuang House The Living Block : Soi Phet Kasem 14/2 ☎ : 08 9616 1642, 095 365 0290 : The Living Block 28 Place Apartment : Soi Phet Kasem 28, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict ☎ : 08 9719 2828 : 28 PLACE Do Dee Cafe Bangkok Hostel : Soi Ratchaphruek 5, Bang Chak Subdistrict ☎ : 06 5932 1108 : Do Dee Cafe Bangkok hostel Arpo Pool Villa Riverside : Soi Phet Kasem 20, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict ☎ : 0 2162 0138 : Arpo Pool Villa Riverside Bed By Tha-Pra Hotel : Soi Phet Kasem 26/1, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen Subdistrict ☎ : 08 4646 5151 : www.bedbythapra.com Na Nava Residence : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 12, Yaek 1, Wat Tha Phra Subdistrict ☎ : 09 5596 4642 Facilities HIDE AND SEED Community Pier : Canoe rental is 50 baht per hour. : Phet Kasem Road, Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 09.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Open daily) ☎ : 09 4497 8519 Car park at Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak : Phet Kasem Road, Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 07.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Everyday) : Fre-of-charge Tha Phra Police Station : Soi Charan Sanit Wong 3 : 0 2457 8662 : สถานีีตำำรวจนครบาล ท่่าพระ Local Stores Postcards, drawing books, T-shirts : Artist House Bangkok Soi Phet Kasem 28, Phasi Charoen District : 10.00 - 18.00 hrs. (Monday - Tuesday) 09.00 - 18.00 hrs. ( Wednesday - Friday) 09.00 - 19.00 hrs. (Saturday - Sunday) ☎ : 09 8097 0468 : บ้้านศิิลปิิน คลองบางหลวง Artist House Bangkok Postcards, drawing books : Sanae Sheeva Shop Soi Phet Kasem 20 : 09.00 - 17.00 hrs. (Everyday) ☎ : 06 2889 7945 : เสน่่ห์์ชีีวา 34 Khlong Bang Luang
Festival Schedule Monk's robe procession of Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak: February Luang Pho Suwankhiri procession: January – February Buddha image procession / Buddha’s relic procession of Wat Nang Chi: October – November Annual festival of Wat Yang Bang Chak: March Recommended Activities Visit the Artist House Bangkok • Khlong Bang Luang Puppet Show • Coloring • Sipping coffee with a good view • Mask painting • Stucco making • Ancient-Style painting • Photo exhibitions Canoe via the HIDE AND SEED Pier • Canoe canal trip • Collecting waste to claim a canoe-rental discount Pay respect to Buddha images, feed fish Wat Thong Sala Ngam • Phra Buddha Rattanakosin Wat Kamphaeng Bang Chak • Luang Pho Butsarakham • Replica of Luang Pho Ban Laem Wat Khuha Sawan • Phra Buddha Thewanaruemit Pichitman • Statue of King Taksin the Great • Image of Luang Pho Phong Dhammachotiko (Phra Khru Wisutthisanthera) Wat Yang Bang Chak • Buddha image in the attitude of enlightenment • Luang Pho Nopphakao Wat Nuannoradit • Stupa with four triple indented corners Wat Pradu Chimphli • Image of Luang Pu Toh • Mon-style stupa • Large ordination hall Wat Pradu Nai Songtham • Luang Pho Rod Suea • Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara Khlong Bang Luang 35
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