DESIGNER PROFILE
CONTENTS RAINS COMME DES GARÇONS ANNA SUI ALAÏA OFF-WHITE 03 07 11 15 19 ERNESTO NARANJO BENITO SANTOS TAKAHIROMIYASHITA THE SOLOIST KHOKI VIVIANO 23 27 31 35 39
03 Mood: Wet-Weather Territory — Space Opera - Inner Hero Silhouettes: Fleece opera coats, puffer jumpsuits, parkas, elongated, oversized, floor-lengths, slits, floor-hugging capes, outerwear / cold-weather /weatherproof gear Fabric: Nylon, sherpa, mesh, cotton, spandex Accessories: 3-D printed Sneakers (Zellerfeld), sculptural neck piece, thick gloves, nylon scarves RAINS This collection was a message to channel one ' s inner hero which was reflected through the selection of floor-sweeping puffer coats that imitated superhero capes, while emitting energy and positivity. The collection was presented at the Théatre du Châtelet, Paris which gave it a contrast from a romantic classic location to merging it with streetwear. DESIGNER - TANNE VINTER THE COL LECTION FAL L 2023 MENSWEAR
07 COMME DES GARÇONS This collection was all about returning to the source, the beginning of the world like the Big Bang, and restarting and finding something new. Rei created an abstract collection that used fabrics that existed without making patterns. The show was split into 11 sections with mise-en-scènes soundtrack curated for each section, while the models walked slowly. DESIGNER - REI KAWAKUBO Mood: "Return to the Source " - Orthodox Elegance Silhouettes: Classic tailoring, bulbous, boxy, flat, geometric, structured, origami, stiffed sleeves, grandiose collars, deconstructed, asymmetrical Fabric: Polyester, wool, tulle, silk Accessories: Fuzzy chenille stem hats THE COL LECTION FAL L 2023 READY-TO-WEAR
11 ANNA SUI This collection was a throwback or a revival to the 60' s at the Peppermint Lounge in New York. This concept was sparked after she found an old photograph of her friend Jane Holder dancing there in Chanel in the 60' s. She decided to bring back some items from her collections in the 90' s such as crochet caps from her 1993 collection and the bunny ear hat from circa 1998, to also tie in the year of the bunny. DESIGNER - ANNA SUI Mood: 60' s Club Silhouettes: Slip dresses, blouses, bed jackets, coats, miniskirts, tights, camisoles Fabric: Faux-fur, satin, chiffon, lace, tweed, jeweled and studded denim, lycra Accessories: Rubber soled cowboy boots, suede biker boots, pointy toe bow tied Ficta shoe, bunny ear hats, lace gloves, crochet caps THE COL LECTION FAL L 2023 READY-TO-WEAR
15 ALAÏA This collection was Mulier ' s way of asserting his own design personality which reflected in intimacy, by having a simple small show reflecting his practice of working (at home with people he likes). He wanted this collection to be minimal with the maximum effect. DESIGNER - PIETER MUL IER Mood: Minimal vs. Maximal Silhouettes: Rounded shoulders, sculpted torso, elongated, fitted jersey, bodysuits, jackets, bustiers, flipped-out skating skirts, draping Fabric: Faded denim, cotton Accessories: Army-surplus parka THE COL LECTION FAL L 2023 READY-TO-WEAR
19 OFF-WHITE This collection got a lot of personal touches from Ibrahim Kamara by including West African soure material in pattern and fabric while including the DNA of Off-White. The " on another planet" feel from the setting and looks of this collection was inspired by the alluvial ochre of unpaved roads across West Africa. There were also lots of details that come from London like the pleated skirted kilts and dresses. DESIGNER - IBRAHIM KAMARA Mood: District 9 Luxury Streetwear - Space Age Afrofuturisim - Romantic Sexy Punk Silhouettes: Reconstructed puffer jackets, tailored, formalwear, oversized coats, distressed, zippers running across constructions Fabric: Padded foil, leather, fur Accessories: Sunglasses with four lenses, toe caps made from motorcycle tail-lights for square-heel boots, metalpunched leather belts and harnesses THE COL LECTION FAL L 2023 READY-TO-WEAR
23 ERNESTO NARANJO This collection was focused on the evolution and transformation of the brand by creating looks that were artistically sensual to appeal to a younger audience. The collection was also a study of the female silhouette. The looks were achieved through layering, transparent garments to give a second-skin effect, adding surreal elements like faux fur. All pieces in this collection were upcycled from pre-existing clothes and fabrics from previous collections. DESIGNER - ERNESTO NARANJO Mood: Sensual Elegance Silhouettes: Feminine, see-through, deep V-necklines, tight tops, trasnparent skirts with horizontal lines that extend outwards creating a rectangle shape Fabric: Faux fur, leather, transparent fabric Accessories: Metallic pompoms/fringe tassels, belts, geometric handbags THE COL LECTION MADRID FAL L 2023
27 BENITO SANTOS This collection was a celebration of the 15th anniversary of the Benito Santos brand and was expressed by paying homage to the Mexican charrería (rodeo). It was presented at the Lieno Zermeño, in the city of Guadalajara and the collection consisted of 104 pieces. the collection "Alteñita " is inspired by Benito ' s hometown, Alteñitas Escaramuzas of Guadalajara. DESIGNER - BENITO SANTOS Mood: Modern Rodeo, Strong and Resilient, Traditional Silhouettes: Waist-hugging accents, suits, tailored, voluminous sleeves, feather trim Fabric: Denim, tulle, satin, feathers Accessories: Opera gloves, chiselled leather cummerbunds, earings and necklaces inspred by charro buckles, bow ties at the neck THE COL LECTION MEXICO FAL L 2023
31 TAKAHIROMIYASHITA THE SOLOIST This collection was presented in the corridors of Tokyo National Museum ' s Hyokeikan and it was Miyashita ' s first runway in a year and a half. The fall collection was a love letter to Miyashita ' s close friend. Textures such as fluffy vests reflected a sense of romance and the combination of gentle piano music composed by Akira Kosemura with slow paced models reflected tenderness. The hard shoes that were printed with RAY GUN, is a reference to graphic designer David Carson ' s experimental magazine that Miyashita admired as a teenager. DESIGNER - TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA Mood: Elegant Modern Masculinity Silhouettes: Fluffy vests, suit jackets, most were above the knee, restrictive maxi skirts, rumpled sleeves, tailored jackets and coats, high-collared jackets, straight-fitting duffle coats, shrunken bomber jackets, off-shoulder shirts Fabric: Leather, velvet, satin, faux-fur Accessories: Wide-brimmed hats and hard shoes printed with RAY GUN THE COL LECTION TOKYO FAL L 2023
35 KHOKI This collection was presented at Tokyo Fashion Week, and it focused on the art of fashion compared to ready-to-wear structures. The collection was nostalgic, inspired by fictional characters often found in children books which reflected in this collection to have over-exaggerated silhouettes and have a costume design feel. DESIGNERS - (DESIGNERS ARE NOT DISCLOSED) A DESIGN TEAM CONSISTING OF SEVERAL YOUNG DESIGNERS Mood: Modern Mystical Fantasy Silhouettes: Oversized blazers and coats, 3D sculptural, layering Fabric: Denim, lace, cotton, wool, velvet, flannel Accessories: Contemporary witch hats, elf ears, lace gloves, sculptural head pieces THE COL LECTION TOKYO FAL L 2023
39 VIVIANO This collection is full of statement pieces including their signature tulle burst from tailored pieces. This collection also speaks to dressing up, but being able to wear the pieces. DESIGNER - VIVANO SUE Mood: Candy Drag Dress-Up Silhouettes: Tailored coats and jackets, carpetbag jackets, Giant Pierrot collars Fabric: Tulle Accessories: Combat boots, balaclavas THE COL LECTION TOKYO FAL L 2023
CITATIONS Clarke, Ashley Ogawa. “Khoki Tokyo Fal l 2023 Col lection.” Vogue, 13 Mar. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ tokyo-fal l-2023/khoki . Clarke, Ashley Ogawa. “Takahiromiyashita the Soloist Tokyo Fal l 2023 Col lection.” Vogue, 17 Mar. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ tokyo-fal l2023/ takahiromiyashita-the-soloist. “ Fal l /Winter 2023.” Anna Sui , annasui .com/pages/ fal l-winter-2023. Garcia, Luz . “Benito Santos Mex ico Fal l 2023 Col lection.” Vogue, 28 Apr. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/mex ico-fal l-2023/benito-santos. Kel ly, Dylan. “Ib Kamara’s Debut off-WhiteTM FW23 Col lection Was Intergalactic.” Hypebeast, 2 Mar. 2023, hypebeast.com/2023/3/off-white-fw23-fal l-winter2023-col lection-paris-fashion-week-ib-kamara. “Khoki : +81 plus Eighty One.” +81, www.plus81. id/en/col lections/khoki . Leitch, Luke. “Comme Des Garçons Fal l 2023 Ready-to-Wear Col lection.” Vogue, 4 Mar. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ fal l-2023-ready-towear /comme-des-garcons. Leitch, Luke. “Off-White Fal l 2023 Ready-to-Wear Col lection.” Vogue, 2 Mar. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ fal l-2023-ready-to-wear /off-white. L i , Joyce. “Khoki FW23 Is Al l about Creating a Mystical Fantasy.” Hypebeast, 15 Mar. 2023, hypebeast.com/2023/3/ tokyo-fashion-week-khoki-fal l-winter-2023- runway-col lection. Mower, Sarah. “Alaïa Fal l 2023 Ready-to-Wear Col lection.” Vogue, 28 Jan. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ fal l-2023-ready-to-wear /az zedine-alaia. Phelps, Nicole. “Anna Sui Fal l 2023 Ready-to-Wear Col lection.” Vogue, 12 Feb. 2023, www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/ fal l-2023-ready-to-wear /anna-sui .
CITATIONS Pithers, Ellie. “Rains Fall 2023 Menswear Collection. ” Vogue, 19 Jan. 2023, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/rains? epik=dj0yJnU9ZzQ4OUdER0tDaDR0dnZ0MEhwd0VzQldvZ0NHaFpScGgmcD0wJm49ZXVLXzdGNmZPc2tjbVY0TlVSLTFYQSZ0PUFBQUFBR1JpX0xJ. Sacal, Andrea. “Comme Des Garçons FW23 Returns to the Origins of L ife. ” Hypebeast, 7 Mar. 2023, hypebeast.com/2023/3/comme-des-garcons-fall-winter2023-paris-fashion-week-runway. Salido, Mayte. “Ernesto Naranjo Madrid Fall 2023 Collection. ” Vogue, 28 Mar. 2023, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/madrid-fall-2023/ernesto-naranjo. Saunders, Brycen. “Rains FW23 Champions the Hero in Everyone. ” Hypebeast, 20 Jan. 2023, hypebeast.com/2023/1/rains-fall-winter-2023-runway-show-parisfashion-week. Socha, Miles. “Comme Des Garçons RTW Fall 2023. ” WWD, 5 Mar. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/comme-des-garcons/review/. Socha, Miles. “Off-White RTW Fall 2023. ” WWD, 2 Mar. 2023, wwd.com/runway/fall-2023/paris/off-white/review/. Templeton, L ily. “Rains RTW Fall 2023. ” WWD, 19 Jan. 2023, wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2023/paris/rains/review/. Wetherille, Kelly. “Takahiromiyashita the Soloist Men’s Fall 2023. ” WWD, 19 Mar. 2023, wwd.com/runway/mens-fall-2023/tokyo/takahiromiyashita-thesoloist/review/.