Taiwan On Trend

108

FAR AND AWAY

TA I WA N

IMMENSE
TAIPEI

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ON TREND
At just half the size of Ireland, with almost five times the population, Taiwan is an
exhilarating mix of cultures and experiences. With shopping and food high on the list,

Norah Casey set off to explore this dynamic location.

109

liveit.

TAIWAN IS ONE OF THE MOST SURPRISING Garbage and Beethoven

places I have ever visited and quite possible one of I also read (and finally saw and heard first hand)

the few countries where I think I would love to live that garbage trucks in Taiwan play classical music

for a while. It is quite unlike anywhere else yet at to let people know when to bring their waste out. A

times you can see so many glimpses of other places common one is Beethoven’s Für Elise and people

and cultures. There are lighter hints of Spanish and gather for early morning chats until they hear the

Dutch from the far distant past and heavier brush music and see the yellow trucks. I just love the idea

strokes in art and architecture from Japanese rule of that ingenious and liveliest of rituals that has

and the various Chinese dynasties. Eco-tourism is transformed

helping to preserve and protect the dwindling recycling in

population of Taiwanese aboriginals, the indigenous Taiwan.

people of the island whose ancestors can be traced

back over 5000 years. Food and fashion are The Earth

flavoured by a myriad of Asian influences yet for all Moves

that Taiwan is quintessentially Taiwan. To the east

of Taiwan

East and West the

Taiwan is half the size of Ireland with a population Philippine

of over 23 million, mostly living in the main cities. Sea plate

It is also an island of two halves and the

split vertically by the Chung-yang “Food and fashion Eurasian Plate converge so the
Shan-mo mountain range. To the island has over 2000 earthquakes a

west are all the major cities and to year but the locals tell me you get

the east are some of the most are flavoured by used to them and you can only
spectacular places on the planet. really feel around 200 or so and

Over half the country is covered in they are reasonable mild (we

forestation with incredible flora, a myriad of Asian survived one).
fauna, wildlife and geological

wonders. Taiwan’s cities are high Taipei

rise and high density so they tend influences” Taipei, with 2.7 million in the city
to be big sprawls, often running proper, is made up of twelve

into each other to create massive districts. After much research I

urban spaces. chose two very different areas of the city to stay; the

TAIPEI 101 bustling bright lights of Ximending and the lovely

On Gossamer Wings Songshan district on the Keelung River to the east.

What attracted me first to The towering landmark in the city is Taipei 101, the

Taiwan was that one of the former Taipei World Financial Center in Xinyi

world’s largest butterfly District which was classified as the world’s tallest in

migrations happens there 2004. (The Burj Khalifa in Dubai took that

every year. I always accolade in 2010 when it was completed.)

imagined that one day I Food and fashion shopping are national pastimes

would see for myself the spectacle of 10 million in Taiwan. We were lucky to have two brilliant local

butterflies making that once in a lifetime journey guides, my nephew Gavin and his Taiwanese

from the mountains in the north to the warmer partner Vivian were

valleys in the south of the island. They start to constant companions. TAIWAN’S FAMED
gather in the autumn and by the time I arrived in Vivian owns BUTTERFLIES

early January they were all settled into their winter boutiques and tells me

homes. When the weather turns warmer the valleys whatever the weather,

of Taitung County, Taichung and Miaoli are alive whatever the mood,

with the butterflies heading north again. shopping is always

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110

FAR AND AWAY

TATTOO STREET

the answer. I scoured the best of Ximending DIN TAI FUNG

the night markets, Taiwanese The hippest and most

designer boutiques and happening district in

shopping malls under her Taipei is Ximending

tutelage. (also called Ximen), a

A close if not equal obsession is heady mix of garish

food. Taiwanese people will queue for hours for the neon and crowds of

best street food, rise at 6am for the perfect breakfast fashionable young

stall and discuss endlessly the better places for Mee people. Often

Sua, rice noodles with oysters or snips of pork compared to Tokyo’s

intestines, much more delicious than it sounds (and Shinjuku there is a distinct Japanese vibe but the city’s

the best is Ay-Chung Flour Rice Noodles on Emei foremost shopping area has its own thing going on

Street, Wanhua District). too. A theatre district flourished in Ximending during

There are some dishes the 1930s and the area

that are on the ‘must eat’ later became a magnet for

list in Taipei and beef the cool crowd.

noodle soup is at the top. We stayed right in the

Braised pork rice (lu rou heart of all the action at

fan) is way up there also amba Ximending a cool

along with dim sum urban retreat right on

(served in multiple fast Movie Theatre Street.

food outlets) and Japanese

hot pot. Our vote for top Amba Taipei Ximending

hot pot, mainly for the There are three amba

amazing seafood and hotels, cooler cousins to

wagyu beef, went to the Ambassador Hotel

Orange Shabu Shabu Group. We stayed at two,

House on in Ximending and

Ren’ai Street. AMBA TAIPEI XIMENDING Songshan, and loved the

While we mostly ate at brand and ethos.

local places and street Wallpaper* magazine

stalls we enjoyed one “Taiwanese people will queue for named amba Taipei
splurge. Din Tai Fung was Ximending one of the best

homegrown in Taiwan and new openings in the world

is now a global chain of hours for the best street food, rise at when it launched. The
restaurants which hotel has a fantastic

specialises in xiao long location and the price is

bao (soup-filled steamed 6am for the perfect breakfast stall” amazing (about €75 per
dumplings). The Hong night). You are in the heart

Kong branch was the first of the action in Ximending

Taiwanese restaurant to and it is only a few

receive a Michelin star. Y minutes’ walk to the Ximen MRT station where the

ou can’t book so the queues are always long but whole of Taipei awaits.

worth the wait. The xiao long bao is made with Creativity, Connectivity and Conservation

precision at each Din Tai Fung: 18 pleats and exactly Amba has this wonderful hipster cool decor but with

21 grams. Our waiter told us to skewer the perfect an overlay of style and luxury. As well as the colour

morsels with a chop stick, to cool the hot soup and pops, recycled embellishments, retro furniture and

pork, before popping them into your mouth. There witty art, there is also a practicality about the

are six locations in Taipei. dintaifung.com.tw bedroom design. My room was super large, divided

into bedroom and bathroom/amenity area with a

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UNIQLO

liveit.

comfortable bed, and 100 per cent RIVER VIEW ROOM SONGSHAN 9 THINGS TO DO IN
natural unbleached linen and organic XIMENDING
cotton towels. Other pluses included
the open concept storage space, rain 1. IDE-1. The beautifully preserved Red
showers, excellent Wi-Fi, widescreen tv, House is over 100 years old. Shop for
and locally produced toiletries. handmade crafts by day and by night, hang
out by the lantern strewn night bars of Taipei’s
Amba Taipei Songshan
largest LGBT district.
We transferred over to amba Ximending’s sister 2. TATTOO STREET: a laneway of open air ink
parlours where you can watch tattoos in action
hotel for the final two nights and while it has the and browse the design folders for inspiration

same distinctive ambiance and carefully curated for your own skin art.
3. I CHING READING: just a few doors down
spaces it has an elegance befitting the location with from our hotel there was a sign that offered
Ancient Knife Massage (yes with real cleavers)
stunning city views over the Keelung River and and I Ching Reading. I opted for the world’s
oldest oracle reading conducted by Olivia
Taipei 101. The amba Songshan hotel is much Wu who made some interesting predictions

bigger with 189 rooms of varying sizes from around life, love and health.
4. CLAW MACHINES: Brightly lit and often
Smart to Studio, but all with great views. My packed places with wall to wall claw machines

enormous Loft River View Room featured 90 are an obsession in Taipei and they are
everywhere – we lost an hour or two trying to
degree panoramic circular floor to ceiling get a cuddly panda into the drop zone but to

windows and a beautiful white bath tub with no avail.
5. BUBBLE TEA: Invented in Taiwan
the best views over the city. The digital spec at XIMENDING with tapioca pearls as the main ‘bubble’
Songshan is a step up with 8 universal plugs in ingredient, it is impossible not to be tempted
by the many flavours and combinations.
each room, a wireless Bluetooth speaker with 6. STREET ART: Fantastical and colourful
graffiti grace the walls and facades on America
360º sound, a USB charging port Street, also known as Graffiti Lane, and the

at the workspace and two nearby Cinema Park.
7. MODERN TOILET: Weirdly popular poo
cleverly located on the phone. themed place and so we had to try it out.
There was something disconcerting about
The lobby reception, dining and
eating noodles from a toilet bowl and
lounge areas (complete with drinking from a urinal.

Ping Pong table) are all on the STREET FOOD 8. ZHONGSHAN HALL: Built during the
17th floor. A woodfired grill takes Japanese era this is where the former
President of the Republic of China Chiang Kai-
centre stage in the open plan
shek gave his inaugural speech.
AMBA TAIPEI SONGSHAN kitchen which serves diners in the 9. KARAOKE IS KING: Taiwan and Ximending

Que restaurant. There is also a has some of the biggest KTV parlours. We
tried out the 24 hour multi story Party World
boutique gym and as with all three amba hotels there where we crooned with the best and worse of

is a cool list of things to borrow such as adapters, them until the early hours.

chargers, hair curlers, baby stuff or you can rent a NIGHT MARKEST

laptop, PlayStation or Xbox.

The location of amba Songshan also made it the

perfect choice. Right next to Songshan Metro Station

and there is a free shuttle service for the few minutes’

drive to Taipei 101. Even better it is just across the

road from the famous Raohe Night Market (incredible

street food). For a different pace of life in Taipei a stroll

down the Keelung river walk where ‘Love’ statues

abound is just perfect. It takes a lot of effort to make

everything look this effortless. Amba really works at

all levels and as always where ever you lay your hat

often dictates how much you enjoy the destination.

8 book.it. Full details of location and rates at amba-hotels.com. irishtatler.com
We flew to Hong Kong direct from Dublin with Cathay Pacific (cathaypacific.
com) and it took just under two hours to fly from Hong Kong to Taiwan
Taoyuan International airport, and an hour to drive to central Taipei.

112

To r o k o
GORGE

Hailed as the Grand Canyon of Taiwan, a visit to

the five million year old Taroko Gorge is like

stepping into another world.

WE TOOK A TRAIN FROM TAIPEI to Hualien lost in time balancing stones to join others who had

and a couple of hours later we were gone before us.

transported to the towering canyon walls of The most frightening part (for me) was crossing a long

Taroko Gorge, the Grand Canyon of Taiwan. rope bridge over the canyon, a feat I could only achieve

This marble-walled gorge of 18 kilometres by staring straight ahead and gripping both sides. The

QINGSHUI CLIFFS or so is set amid the misty mountains on gorgeous Baiyang Waterfall was the jewel that awaited

the east coast of Taiwan. It was created us at the end of our journey. Just a little further on the

over five million years ago when sea-plates trail we donned the waterproof ponchos and entered

collided and the rock was thrust upwards creating the Water Curtain Cave where we walked through the

steep, narrow canyons where the blue grey waters of tunnel as water cascaded over our heads. It was worth

the Liwu River meanders through the marble boulders the drenching.

and jagged rocks of the gorge. The effect is stunning The following day I headed early to the picturesque

and unique. Eternal Spring Shrine (Changchun Temple and

The natural wonders, sheer cliffs, waterfalls and hiking waterfall, the most popular

trails at Toroko National Park have been popular since stop in the Park dedicated to THE BAIYANG
those who lost their lives when WATERFALL
the 1930s. We had been in cities since we left Dublin the Japanese built the road in TRAIL

and it was magical to wake up in this awesome natural

wilderness but I had read about this stunning stretch 1910. I stopped at Buluowan,

of beach below the dramatic Qingshui Cliffs to the a large hill-top terrace home

north of the park so early on the first morning I set out and service station, where

to see them for myself and fill my lungs with sea air. there is an exhibition about

Driving through the tunnels flanked by the mountains the Taroko (Truku) tribe and

with passing glimpses of the sheer drops below was local aboriginal rattan, weaving and basket-making

incredible and the perfect prelude to the vista of crafts. Further on there is the popular tunnels and sheer

the cliffs and the sea. drops of Swallow’s Grove – it is not for the faint hearted

In the afternoon we set out on the Baiyang and certainly not for me but for the fearless I am told

Waterfall Trail. Our destination was not only the the scenery is worth it. Similarly the walk along the

dramatic waterfall but Water Curtain Cave at the famous (but currently closed) Tunnel of Nine Turns is

end of the trail. The trail has more tunnels (pitch said to be incredible. Our final walk was the Shakadang

black at times) than any of the others so we set Trail, also called Mysterious Valley Trail which is a very

BALANCING ROCKS out with torches and waterproofs. The hike is easy two hour hike along the Shakadang Stream made

about an hour each way but it took us far longer longer by the wonderment of the ever changing hues

as we stopped regularly to gaze in wonderment at the of the crystal clear blue waters collecting in pools along

changing flow and colours of the river. We spotted a the meandering creek against the backdrop of the

Formosa Macaque hiding in the trees and happily got imposing white marble boulders.

irishtatler.com QINGSHUI
CLIFFS

SILKS PLACE RESORT 111

ILHA FOR-
MOSA

and that inner healing and calm that descends when liveit.

we allow the world to slow down. The yoga and fitness

room was a tranquil space for solitude and stretching.

The vicissitudes of jet lag and muscle soreness from

all the hiking were soothed away by the perfect palm

pressure, thumb rolling, long strokes and kneading of

an expert deep tissue massage. For the more active

there are tennis

courts but for me

the perfect end to MAGICAL VIEWS OF THE MISTY
the day was in the MOUNTAINS AT TAROKO

sauna and steam

bath.

We stayed in

SILKS PLACE TAROKO a large corner

Garden View Suite

with lovely views

over the courtyard.

During our

two night stay we dined at both

Our home for the weekend was a beautiful hotel, Silks restaurants and enjoyed afternoon

Place, the only 5-star hotel set in the park nestled amid tea, sundowners with great views of

the plum trees in the the mountains and traditional Chinese

only village, Tianxiang. and western breakfast at the relaxing

This is also the hub Retreat Lounge.

for visitors as the only We also sampled the substantial and

recreation area with varied International buffet served at MEI YUAN RESTAURANT
the Wellesley Restaurant and enjoyed
shops, service station,

OURDOOR DINING AT THE visitor centre and bus breakfast outside in the sunshine there on our first
WELLESLEY RESTAURANT terminal and just across
morning. On our first evening we dressed up for a night

the Pudu footbridge of fine dining in the elegant Mei Yuan Restaurant.

is the stairway to the The food is also part of the

Xianade Temple and Pagoda. Silks Place experience with

The hotel is a beautiful oasis set against the brooding fresh local produce and home

mountains with breath taking views of the park. On grown herbs and spices.

our first evening as the sun was setting I swam in the

serene outdoor pool flanked by lanterns while gazing Beautiful Island
When intrepid Portuguese
upwards at the towering peaks. navigators sailed close to
Taiwan in 1544 they named
Later soaking in the whirlpool while the night noises it ‘Ilha Formosa, which
translates to ‘beautiful island’.
of birds and wildlife began to settle Sometimes that’s hard to see
in the sprawling high rise
across the gorge and the wood cities. But the combination
of a beautiful hotel set against nature’s own stunning
fires were being lit for an aboriginal backdrop was an exceptional and unforgettable
experience and showed us the other side of Taiwan. l
show later that night, I captured that

moment in time to remember during

less beautiful and peaceful moments

in my life. It was magical.

The natural and wellness synergies of Silks Place and
Taroko were part of the whole immersion into nature

8 book.it. Full details of location and rates at taroko.silksplace.com irishtatler.com
Taiwan is geologically active and main sights or trails are regularly closed so check with the Taroko Gorge National Park
website before you go. taroko.gov.tw