IOW_V2

Irish Writing

The contemporary fiction The holiday read The thriller

My Husband’s Wives by Faith Hogan All at Sea by Pauline Blood Tide by
Ireland’s leading cardiologist, Paul Lawless Claire McGowan
Starr, dies in a car crash with a Dublin socialite Bunny Forensic
pregnant woman by his side. Four McElroy invites her psychologist
women are united in their grief for family on holiday. Sounds Paula Maguire
this one man but soon realise they good in theory but her is called to
never knew him at all. Could it be that husband Richard is not Bone Island to
his death is the very thing that bonds keen, while her son Gavin and wife Fiona investigate the disappearance of
them and their children together are apprehensive about spending a fortnight a young couple during a violent
forever? It seems that Paul’s death with his nearest and dearest. But none could storm. The island was the location
proves to be the catalyst that enables imagine the havoc Bunny’s daughters, Sarah of the last family holiday she
them to become the people they and Jess, will cause on a cruise. Elsewhere, enjoyed, before her mother left
always wanted to be. businessman Tony Kenny is fed up with his the family home at the height of
wife’s family and thinks a cruise is the ideal Northern Ireland’s Troubles. When
way to escape his in-laws. Declan Jordan is it becomes clear that outsiders are
worried his mistress will reveal their affair to unwelcome on the island, Paula
his wife, so he decides to take her on board suspects foul play, realising the
the cruise as a second honeymoon. Clearly, inhabitants are deliberately hiding
there won’t be a dull moment on the ship! secrets from her and each other. A
great addition to the series focusing
The advice text The much-loved author on the difficulties of living and
working in a border town.
Letters to a Young Our Little Secret by Claudia Carroll
Writer by Colum Sarah Dee may have the perfect life The absorbing
McCann – great job in a law firm, beautiful read
From the critically daughter, beautiful home, even a
acclaimed author great relationship with her estranged When Light is Like
comes a paean to the husband – but within weeks, she’s Water by Molly
power of language, looking through the kitchen window McCloskey
and a direct address to while another woman enjoys it all. American woman Alice
the artistic, professional and philosophical How did it come to this? Sarah takes arrives in the west of
concerns that challenge and sometimes pity on a struggling young graduate Ireland with no plans. She falls in love
torment an author. Comprising fifty-two who can’t get a job and thinks she’s with an Irishman and settles in a place
short prose pieces, Letters to a Young Writer doing the right thing. But is there more where she must learn to understand. Yet,
ranges from practical matters of authorship, to this wide-eyed, innocent youngster during one summer, she embarks on an
such as finding an agent, the pros and cons than meets the eye? Is this good deed affair that breaks her marriage and sets
of creative writing degrees and handling not going to end up with a positive her life on a new course. Years later, Alice
bad reviews, through to the more joyous outcome? returns to Ireland, contemplating the
and celebratory, as McCann elucidates the reasons that led her to put down roots in
pleasures to be found in truthful writing, the country and what caused her to tear
for: 'the best writing makes us glad that we them up. When Light is Like Water is a
are – however briefly – alive.' It inspires beautifully written, gripping story of the
writers to learn the rules of writing and, real value of family and what home really
where necessary, break them. means to us.

49

OWnolmyAan
As part of the internationally successful Celtic
Woman, harpist and singer Órla Fallon has
played for presidents and sold out Carnegie
Hall. We meet the Wicklow native and chat
about singing for the Pope and her new
album, a tribute to American folk songs

50 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

Irish Music

Idon’t come from a musical family. My I learned piano from the time I was six. from him to say that they were putting
mum comes from Ardfert in Kerry and Mum used drive me to a lovely lady called together a show for PBS and would I be
my dad comes from the heart of the Mrs Jones who would teach me in her house interested. I was fanatical about PBS, they
Wicklow mountains, a place called and after every lesson you would get a slice broke Riverdance and Flatley and The Three
Aughavannagh. I grew up in a little village of cake. Where I grew up it was very rural Tenors Ireland, so I knew it was a massive
called Knockananna. and isolated so I went to boarding school opportunity.
in Mount Sackville in the Phoenix Park
I sang before I talked, I loved it. I used because it had a great musical tradition and We filmed the show in the Helix theatre in
to drive my parents mad because I never it was there that I learned the harp. Dublin in September 2004, and it exploded.
stopped. I was always encouraged and from It was five girls; four singers and one
the time I was tiny I sang in church in Being honest, the first teacher I had, we fiddle player and together we were Celtic
Knockananna. Mum was principal of the didn’t get on at all. It was a personality clash. Woman. There was a kind of magic that
school and I was wheeled out for everything. I bunked off lessons, I was always sending happened that night. We went from oblivion
messages saying I was sick, I had a nosebleed to launching on the Today Show at the
Mum had the love of the Irish language – I was desperate! But there was a nun called Rockefeller plaza the following March – that
and she instilled that in us. It was from her Sister Eugene who was brilliant and she was has an audience of millions. What a launch
I got a love of the stories and the language, great fun. Her students were playing these pad for a new album.
but it was my grandmother that gave me the lovely tunes and I asked her would she give
love of all the songs. She was a treasure chest me lessons and from the moment I started When we recorded the PBS concert,
of songs, she knew every Irish song and a lot playing with her I just loved it. we also recorded an album. We filmed
of the songs I sang on my first album, The the concert and recorded the album and
Water Is Wide, and that I went on to sing I did a music, theology and philosophy thought no more about it. The album was
in Celtic Woman, I learned working in the degree, and I taught music, religion and released in March a couple of weeks before
kitchen with my grandmother. Irish for six years but eventually I packed Patrick’s Day and it went straight into the
it in because I was really into performing, I Billboard charts at number one, it was
Siúil A Rún, Tá mé ‘mo shuí, Aililiu Na was doing small concerts. number one on Amazon, it exploded. From
Gamhna, she knew all the Irish songs. I then we started touring and it opened up a
would hang on her every word. Preab San I played in the Pope’s private chapel whole new world.
Ól is a great one, it’s a milk churning song. in 2000. It’s a chapel that was gifted to
There was one called Two Sisters, it’s about the Pope by all the world leaders and it’s In the summer of 2005, we practically
90 verses long and it’s great fun – it took in his quarters in the Vatican. It was the lived in the States, we had tour buses, we
me an eternity to learn it. I remember being millennium and a bunch of Irish musicians went to every city in America. Our first live
proud as punch when I did because they were invited to play there. I met Pope John concert was in Cleveland, Ohio and we got
were never written down, you learned by Paul II to say hello and shake hands, he a standing ovation. We sold out Carnegie
singing and listening. was very nice, very gentle. It was surreal, Hall in New York, Red Rocks amphitheater
such an honour. I sang Ag Críost an Síol, it in Colorado, Radio City Music Hall, New
I won a Feis Ceoil singing those same was a heavenly moment. They carried my York – all the places you could only dream
songs. It was a competition for singing and harp through the holy door and that’s only about. The songs really struck a chord with
harp accompaniment. My medal is at home opened every couple of years, so it’s been the audiences. I used to sing The Isle of
in my parent’s house with my grandfather’s well blessed. Innisfree with my harp and you’d see people
1916 medals! crying in the audience, second and third
“It was a dream come true to generation Irish. It really seemed to mean
play Carnegie Hall. As a child something to people. They appreciate the
growing up, mum used to talk heritage of Ireland, they yearn for it, there’s a
about this amazing theatre and longing for the old sod.
anyone who was anyone had
It was a dream come true to play Carnegie
sung there” Hall. As a child growing up, mum used to
talk about this amazing theatre and anyone
Celtic Woman came about by chance. I who was anyone had sung there. My dad,
was singing in the National Concert Hall who I lost three years ago, would never get
and David Agnew was in the audience and on a plane except for horse racing, but he
he approached me and told me he really came to New York!
loved my singing, did I have a demo that
he wanted to pass it on to David Downes We performed at the official Patrick’s Day
who was going to be the next big thing, the celebrations in the White House. We got a
next Bill Whelan. David contacted me and call months beforehand because you have
said he loved my sound… and then I never to be cleared for security and we weren’t
heard from him again for a long time. allowed to tell anyone. We were picked up
at the airport in Washington by the secret
Then out of the blue one day I got a call service in the big vans, it was so funny, you
couldn’t make it up. I met George W Bush,
he was very nice and very welcoming, he
was grooving away to the music. I remember
being really nervous, it was a guest list of

51

Irish Music

heads of state. We did a medley of our big Royal Hospital Kilmainham in Dublin. That and I poured my heart into them. I had lost
songs and it went down great. We actually album went into the Billboard charts at my dad and these are songs he used to love.
got a Christmas card from him, I still have it number four. They touch all aspects of life – love, loss,
in my music room on my desk! celebration, faith, all human emotions and I
I toured for a number of years and was think it’s my most honest album, I wore my
I toured with Celtic Woman for four years always being asked to do a lullaby CD. I heart on my sleeve. The reaction has been
and while it was a lovely experience doing started writing and researching lullabies and phenomenal. They are a special collection of
all these things, it was very hard on my poor I discovered at 41 that I was pregnant! What heartwarming songs.
long suffering husband. One of the tours a blessing! It was like the planets aligned.
was six months and I’m a real homebird, I Freddie’s four-and-a-half years old now. I I have been very lucky in the places music
found it very hard. I was the first to leave the released My Lullaby and then took a break. has brought me, growing up in small village
group because I wanted to record an album in Wicklow, you never think you’ll get to
myself. It was very hard to walk away from While in America, I spent a lot of time in play in the Vatican or the White House. It’s
something that’s really successful and start Nashville, Tennessee and I think there is a such an honour and a privilege. You never
again but it was the right decision for me. huge connection between Irish music and take any of these fabulous moments for
those old spiritual American songs. It was granted.
I recorded two PBS specials back-to-back important for me to celebrate their music
and ended up being on the road as bad as as well as my own, to acknowledge their Orla’s new album, Sweet By and By, is now
ever! I recorded three albums which did heritage and the wonderful store of songs available on www.orlafallon.com
really well in the World Music Charts and and well of music they have, and write an
the PBS show was shown coast to coast all American country album and that’s what
over the States. We filmed at iconic locations Sweet By and By is. When were kids, we
around Ireland like the Cliffs of Moher, in used to sing Johnny Cash in the car, so there
Dingle, the rock of Cashel and Donegal is his song, I still Miss Someone, and 500
for the album My Land and this footage is Hundred Miles by Peter, Paul and Mary, it’s
interspersed with the concert we did at the gorgeous. These songs are so meaningful

52 Ireland of the Welcomes | September/October 2015

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Competition

WinA Short History
of Irish

Traditional Music
ByGearóidÓhAllmhuráin

T his wonderful book provides dancing from the end of the 18th century.
the history of Irish traditional It also follows the music of the Irish
music, song and dance from the diaspora from as far apart as
mythological harp of the Dagda Newfoundland and the music halls of
right up to Riverdance and beyond. vaudeville to the musical tapestry of Irish
Exploring an abundant spectrum of America today.
historical sources, music and folklore, this
guide uncovers the contribution of the A Short History of Irish Traditional Music
Normans to Irish dancing, the role of the By Gearóid Ó hAllmhuráin is published
music maker in Penal Ireland, as well as by O’Brien Press and is available from
the popularity of dance tunes and set www.obrien.ie

Terms and conditions To be in with a chance of
The closing date for entries is 31 August 2017. The editor’s decision is winning, just answer the
final. The prize is non-transferable and cannot be exchanged for cash. following question:

What mythological musical
instrument is associated
with the Dagda?

Please email entries to

competitions@
irelandofthewelcomes.com
Or send to our postal address:
Ireland of the Welcomes
Competition,
Harmonia, Rosemount House,
Dundrum Road,
Dublin 14, Ireland.
Please include your full address
along with either a telephone
number or email address.

55

BallycastleLEGENDARY
Legend has it that Deirdre of the Sorrows
landed at Ballycastle in County Antrim,
when she returned to Ireland after a happy
few years in Scotland with her lover Fergus.
She was then forced to marry the King of
Ulster and, later, killed herself when he
threatened to give her to another man

56 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

Irish Folklore

Rathlin Island coast, the northernmost
point of Northern Ireland

A lthough the story of Deirdre under Fair Head. The beach at Ballycastle The sea journey to Rathlin Island is well
begins and ends at the court of is a pleasant one with magnificent views worth making, not just for the experience
the Ulster King Conchobhar a towards Rathlin and Manannán’s Rock. of a beautiful and peaceful island, and
in Armagh, perhaps its Ballycastle is a lively seaside town and the the numbers of sea birds which make
strongest connection is with the glens of site of Lammas Fair in August, a gathering the island their home, but also for the
Scotland, where Deirdre made her home that has its roots in the Lughnasa festival. friendliness and kindness of the people
with her lover. The lament Deirdre sings At the east end of its beach, there is a who live there – there is nothing quite like
when leaving these glens has the same cluster of flat rocks, known as Pan’s Rocks the feeling of staying on such an island
emotional depth as the one she sings because, in the past, salt-panning was when the last of the day visitors have
when her lover is killed. carried on here by the local people. It is left and the island sinks into its world of
said that Deirdre protested to the very end quietness. Folk tradition says that Rathlin
But we look to the extreme northeast against landing here, wanting to land on was formed when Fionn’s huge mother
coast of Antrim, to the landing place Rathlin Island where at least they had the tripped and dropped a pile of stones in
where Deirdre returned after her few short security of the sea as a barrier between the bay, on her way to Scotland to buy
years of happiness. Tradition has it that themselves and the jealous Conchobhar. whiskey – she lies drowned under the
this landing place was Ballycastle Bay, just

57

Pan's Rock, Ballycastle, Antrim Coast

water, and, in stormy weather, people say, “This is country that god, Manannán, for the rock that bears
‘The old witch is kickin’’. The idea of the can best be appreciated by those his name is not far out to sea, in the wild
Cailleach or Old Witch as creator of the prepared to do some walking, Sea of Moyle where the Children of Lir
landscape links this northeastern point of spent the most miserable part of their
Ireland with that extreme southwestern to immerse themselves time in exile. Here you feel closer to the
one – Béara. in hidden valleys and wild Mull of Kintyre than to Ireland; and
indeed, at those times in the past when
Not far from Ballycastle is Torr Head. headlands.” land travel was made difficult by bogs
It was there that the traitorous warrior and great forests, Scotland would have
Barach forced Fergus Mac Róich – who his residence – not, in this case, a figure been more easily accessible than many
had taken on the safety of Deirdre and the from mythology, but a character from parts of Ireland. It is on Fair Head that
Sons of Usna as his personal responsibility local folklore, known as the Grey Man. during the reign of Elizabeth I, the old
– to leave his charges and dine with him This cloaked figure may be seen striding Gaelic chieftain, Sorley Boy, screamed
at his fort. The journey around the coast along the cliffs, looking out towards the his madness and grief when he heard the
from Ballycastle to Torr Head passes by sea when a storm is brewing. Perhaps this shrieks coming across the sound from
Fair Head, where there are signposted figure is connected with the grey-cloaked Rathlin. He had sent the women and
walks on the cliffs. The small valley of children of his clan there for safety but an
Lough na Cranagh holds a crannóg in invading fleet, led by Drake and Norris,
a lake hedged by green hills. Here, the landed on the island and butchered every
trees and the gentle hills give relief from one of them.
the sometimes overpowering drama and
tempest of the coastal views. Fair Head is This is country that can best be
also the site where yet another giant has appreciated by those prepared to do some

58 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

Irish Folklore

Four Swans sculpture from the
Children of Lir legend on the

seafront in Ballycastle, Co. Antrim

walking, to immerse themselves in hidden Countryside around the village of
Cushendall in the Glens of Antrim
valleys and wild headlands. Not far away
59
is Cushendall and the site of Oisín’s Grave

– a Neolithic court grave on Tievebullagh

mountain. This is the country of Fionn

and the Fianna, of hunters racing with

their hounds and their horns down

narrow glens towards the sea. If Deirdre’s

ghost wanders here,

it is a lonely one, Co Antrim
continually looking

eastwards across the

sea towards the glens

of Scotland.

Extracted from Legendary Ireland by Eithne
Massey. It is available from www.obrien.ie

Lyrical Life
Patrick Kavanagh powerfully evokes the isolation he felt as a sensitive teenage
boy in rural Ireland. Having left school at an early age to work on the family
farm, he became an avid reader, hiding books in hedgerows because his
mother complained they distracted from his duties

Inniskeen The statue of Patrick Kavanagh
Road: July on the banks of the Grand Canal,
Evening
Dublin
By Patrick Kavanagh

The bicycles go by in twos and threes -
There's a dance in Billy Brennan's barn
to-night,
And there's the half-talk code of mysteries
And the wink-and-elbow language of
delight.
Half-past eight and there is not a spot
Upon a mile of road, no shadow thrown
That might turn out a man or woman, not
A footfall tapping secrecies of stone.
I have what every poet hates in spite
Of all the solemn talk of contemplation.
Oh, Alexander Selkirk knew the plight
Of being king and government and nation.
A road, a mile of kingdom, I am king
Of banks and stones and every blooming
thing.

60 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

Poetry

From Our Readers

A Sea Walk Summer Haiku dark tunnel of trees, of stars settling in till dawn.
whitethorns light the way.
By Daniel K. Barnes By Patrick Hammer Jr Outside Kent Station, Cork,
Buttercups on the ditch purple signals their arrival--
I came to walk, Bright day getting darker: trying to mimic the furze Fairy Thimbles--right on time.
And dally awhile; blackbirds hedge high above.
Beside the Atlantic sea. on the whitethorn. Upper lawn, St. Fin Barre's, Cork:
Blazing sun, no cloud labyrinth among graves, a child
To watch the restless entity, Before two sentences spoken to cool or quench with rain: casts pebbles, eager to get on.
Wave by wave; Irish weather forecaster has this furze on fire.
Roll upon the waiting shore. some wet word out. Shannon fog at Limerick-Clare
Tonight above Millstreet border: losing the signal
To hear the incessant roar, Above the road in Mallow a stellar view: this mass to Cork Local Radio.
Yet peacefully so;
In ear and mind and soul.

And spy the scurrying,
Sand-piper dance;
Beside the ebb and flow.

While white gulls screech,
The windy skies;
Eager for their morning prize.

All the while,
Slow striding by;
Eye to the coming storm.

For your 100th We drove the groceries to the people,
birthday the full brown bags in the back seat,
and I in my ten year wisdom
By Carol E. Wheeler, RSM riding beside you
to houses I didn't understand.
Within me and around me Even now it is as it was,
wraps the wild wisteria still disappearing and returning,
of her memory. profuse in proper season,
At the south gate luring the fat black bees from winter
the sap seeps up from ancient roots rest.
and tendrils catch the yellow roses And should we call it fortitude or
unaware. faith--
Your laughter breaks the leaves that these dry pods
like sunlight. yield yet again another Spring?

61

Poetry

Emerald Lands My Irish Mother Please feel free to submit a poem for
publication. Due to space constraints
By Aoife O’Riordan By Gabrielle Monaghan(Annie Coyle Martin) shorter works are preferable. It will not be
possible to publish all poems submitted.
The wind it calls me far and wide I remember you in leaf filtered light The editor’s decision on which poems are
Carry me home, to the emerald lands and Among ordinary things published is final. There is no payment for
seas capped white. Shining pools of water published works. Send your poems to
Let me sit on the rocks by the sea Dark or light [email protected].
As they crash and roar as the cold And when the blackbird sings
seaweed hits my feet
Sweep me up, let your music lead me And if I see a laburnum tree
To the great isle of fiddles and a warm In glorious summer bloom
cup of tea. I remember you loved a garden tea
Let the cold rain wash away my fears And how the season passed too soon
And the plush green grass hold me close,
so tender and so dear. 'Mind your money' you always said
May I always recall your warm allure And make it last a while
When I sit by the fire burning turf, safe But when we shopped in Grafton Street
and secure. It was you who bought the style
So that when I close my eyes and dream
I picture myself there, dancing in a clear, Now at mealtime when I slice the bread
cold stream. Your hand still makes the cross
And when my feet get cold over time I hear the suppliant words you said
I'll flee to the green fields where there’s And mourn again our loss
endless trees to climb.
And far off there’ll be an old abbey
Entrenched and forgotten, smothered by
a dark valley.
But in time the sun emerges from clouds
And I’ll run to the garden lined with roses
in crowds
The yellows and pinks and reds surround
And every overgrown single laned road
tightly wound
A nettle or two might sting my feet
Yet my joy will heal them, any pain it will
defeat
So take me to you, for you I yearn
Yes, I know right now I must stay, and
cannot return.
Promise you'll always be there for me
For when I come back, I'll never again
cross that sea.
Once you’ve carried me to emerald lands
I’ll smile and sigh with relief; I’m home,
back in Ireland.

62 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

Letters

Letters

Dear Editor, All God’s blessings to you.
I was delighted to see the article on the lesser-known Irish saints.
Both my grandparents on my mother’s side were born and raised Elizabeth Sweeney,
in Dungarvan, County Waterford. My grandmother (Mary New Jersey
Dwyer) is from Stradbally, County Laois, and my grandfather is
from Coolnasmear, County Waterford. His parish church was St Elizabeth – Local saints are still remembered here in Ireland.
Gobnait in Kilgobnet. They were the sweetest people, always kind Ed
and had a smile for everyone. I am so blessed because I still have
family in Coolnasmear. I have been to the St Gobnait’s church
several times. Our family still sits in the ‘Power’s Pew’ for mass.
Such a blessing to have been to mass there.

Looking forward to many more issues of your wonderful
magazine. May the lesser known Irish saints intercede for Ireland
to stay strong in the faith that we have been so blessed to have
passed on to us.

Dear Editor, Dear Editor
I have done a lot of reading in my 93 years and have never seen
Adele was Irish through and through and took great pride my maiden name in print until now (Leavy). All my father’s
grandparents were Ireland born.
in her Irish heritage. She grew up in the small town of Kings
I’ve been a subscriber of this magazine for many years and was
Park on Long fortunate to make two trips to Ireland, in 1976 and 2000. I would go
again tomorrow if able. Thank you for so much entertaining reading
Island, New and lovely photography.

York that was Colleen Meisel (née Leavy),
Ohio
99% Irish, most
Colleen – Your father named you well and what a lovely name it
having migrated is! Ed

from Lissycasey,

County Clare.

A high point

of her life was

our trip to

Ireland in 1989

and visiting Lissycasey falls, Co Clare Dear Editor,
Lissycasey to see I so enjoy your magazine, its wonderful articles and stunning
photography. I am from the States but my heart belongs in Ireland
where her grandparents (Bridget and Patrick Murphy and and so I love spending a portion of my summer there. From my
home base in Kenmare, I like to travel around and often find stories
Adele and Martin Hartney) came from in the early 1900s. from this publication to be the inspiration for where I travel.
Thank you bringing a bit of Ireland to us,
Adele passed away in September 2015 from pancreatic
Johnelle Foley Snider,
cancer. Family and friends say that the Irish cottage image is Via email

Adele’s message that all is well. There is a little bit of Ireland COMPETITION WINNERS

waiting for all us.

Paul Nealon,
North Carolina

Paul – What a wonderful tribute to a wonderful woman. Ed

OVER TO YOU Congratulations to the winners of our March April competition for

We love to hear from you. Please send your letters to: Letters, Ireland The Curious History of Irish Dogs by David Blake Knox. A copy of this
of the Welcomes, Harmonia, Rosemount House, Dundrum Road, wonderful book is on its way to Leo J. Finnegan, Florida; Maryann
Dublin 14, Ireland, or email: [email protected]. Hoppe, New Jersey; Bob Miller, Texas; Lauren Roberts, Armadale,
Western Australia; Seoirse(George) E.Podmore Jr, Massachusetts;
Elizabeth A Masterson, New Jersey.

63

Insider tips

Btewtowleoenugthhse
Michael Finn tours Lough Erne in County Fermanagh

Sunrise on Lough Erne Among its islands, archaeologists have found evidence of pre-Celtic
foragers, monastic settlements, Vikings and human habitation
Alovely little town, Belleek is famous for a few things. First, dating back into the mists of time.
there is the famous Belleek pottery. Across the square in
the village sits the factory where a production process Boa Island holds a pre-historic graveyard with pre-Christian gods.
turns clay into works of art. Right opposite the factory, is One of the most famous of stones has heads that are carved with
the lesser-known Carlton Hotel, which used to have the most faces facing in either direction and many scholars argued over what
expensive man’s urinal in the world. It was made entirely of Belleek they meant.
china.
On White Island, seven carved rocks create a mystery. Even today,
The visitors’ book in the factory reads like a who’s who of world experts don’t know what they were for. The middle figure, with hand
famous people and includes queens, politicians and movie stars. It to mouth, is reckoned to be Saint Patrick.
was all made possible because of the discovery of the raw materials
in the local ground to create Parian porcelain, a type of porcelain One thing to remember here is that sound travels well over water.
similar to marble. Belleek with its trademark emblem of round tower In still conditions it is possible to hear a conversation from miles
and harp have decorated homes from Drumskinney to the White away. I listened to two fishermen one evening having a conversation
house and even as far as the Kremlin. as they fished for brown trout for two hours. Introduced to them
later in the pub I remarked that, “I’d met them earlier”.
Belleek sits roughly at the end of Lough Erne’s water system. The
‘winding banks of Erne’, a reference to the poet William Allingham, Devenish Island is one of the best known on the Erne. It was under
have been straightened. the power of St Molaise, a friend of St Columba. The monks were of
the order known as the Culdees, companions of God.
Not many know that Belleek was the place where an English army
fired upon the Irish Republic during the War of Independence. One of the tales told about the area is that Prophet Jeremiah,
having fled Jerusalem, was shipwrecked on Ireland’s shore, found by
Lastly, the village claims the birthplace of the Right Reverend Finn MacCumhaill and was eventually buried on Devenish.
Bishop Edward Daly, a man who did so much for peace in Northern
Ireland. Drive straight up the road and get refreshed in Kesh, which is only
a short distance away. Kesh in Irish means ‘a bridge or crossing’ and
When you are in Belleek you are firmly in County Fermanagh. A in terms of the Erne it fits. After exploring the lower lough this is a
local saying goes: “Tyrone among the bushes, Fermanagh among the good place to take a rest. In the evening take a stroll down the road
rushes”. Even in the car you are surrounded by water in Fermanagh. to Muckross bay to take in the sights, as on the road to Enniskillen
tomorrow you will lose sight of the Erne until outside the county
As you leave Belleek, head up the hill and take the road to Kesh, via town. Fare thee well Enniskillen, fare thee well for a while.
the Boa Island.

Lough Erne is roughly fifty miles long and steeped in history.

64 Ireland of the Welcomes | July/August 2017

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