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BBeIaGutyN’s EWS
Beauty editor Shauna O’Halloran looks at the pioneering
techniques set to revolutionise skincare as we know it.f there’s one thing we know, it’s this: the world of
beauty does not stand still. Our desires and needsmakeup’, or ‘the natural look’? Instead of
are perpetually changing and science and technologypulled back faces made up like a Stepford wife,
work at double speed to come up with solutions. the new beauty goal is to appear as makeup
So what new wonders can we expect for our faces free as possible, with an inner glow. Elaine
for 2015 and beyond? First, we must look at the Butler-Doolin notices it with the clients at her
landscape we’re living in. With decades of focusDublin-based treatment rooms, Bespoke Beauty.
“Dull, lifeless skin is a big concern,” she tells
Ion wrinkles, anti-ageing and the surgery-centric us, “especially for those who are working all
approach to eternal youth, we now find ourselves day in front of a computer and those that have
in a different sphere of expectation. Women (and kids that never get a minute to themselves.”The
men) are interested in ingredients, and the modern age of merging war against dull skin has been raging for some
professionalism and family life as well as the devolution of the time now and the key heroes in this area have
quest for perfect, creaseless beauty has never been in a bigger proven to be antioxidants – ingredients that Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Cream
mode of change. How often have we heard the terms ‘no makeup flush out the toxins and target free radicals. (€210), Multi-Active Foaming
Cleanser (€51.80) and Intensive

Serum (€210) by Pevonia

“Women don’t want to be talked to THE NEW BUZZWORDS
in a particular age demographic any
more, nor be told that as we age, THE MIILENNIALS
lines are unacceptable”
Apparently, you’re never too young to be concerned about
Butler-Doolin is always on the lookout for getting old. The latest market targeted by the beauty world
the next moment in treatments and her is Generation Y. These consumers, born from 1983-2004,
new facial uses collagen and Vitamin C to include some 1.8 billion people, most of whom are in their
address the modern woman’s issues. What’s 20s. Too old for the teen skin market and too young for the
more, it incorporates another fundamental intensive anti-ageing market, they are high-powered, have-
shift in skincare: it feels good. It is not a it-alls who deal with the daily stresses of career, commuting,
drastic nor painful measure designed to pollutants and skin changes like larger pores, less bounce
change the face entirely, like traditional and decreasing radiance. Origins has dubbed these tricky
surgery, which is noticing a decline in skin years as a moment of ‘quarter-life crisis’ when it comes
popularity in favour of less-invasive options. to skincare. It’s new Original Skin Renewal Serum with
“It’s both intensive and relaxing,” she says, Willowherb (€42) tackles Millennial-specific skin problems,
“so clients get to step off the treadmill of including dehydration, protection agains pollutants and has
a busy life for 90 minutes and receive a a shrinking effect on pores too.
thorough skin treatment.”
As wellness from within to promote THE AGELESS CONSUMER
beauty without continues its upward surge,
skin protection is becoming an increasingly First tipped midway through 2014 by New York analyst
important area and consumers are swotting Super Restorative Total Lucie Greene, the Ageless Consumer is aged over 50
up on how to maintain their skin at its Eye Concentrate (€61) biologically, but emotionally and perception wise is liberated
from age restrictions. “The way age is playing out for this
by Clarins generation is really different,” she said at the Cosmetic
Executive Women Future Focus Summit. “It is essentially
best. There isn’t a dermatologist in the land that moving towards an ageless society with individuals tending
hasn’t been beating the drum about SPF for the last decade at to be less defined by their age. Many people don’t retire
least, and now there is more choice than ever to incorporate now!”These women shun the idea that they need to erase
sun protection into your daily routine. Until now, however, every line and wrinkle in order to deny a certain age, and
very little has been achieved in changing the technology behind instead want a natural look that focuses on well-being. The
the UV protection on offer. It’s hardly surprising that the beauty players have responded with offerings like Darphin’s
newest breakthrough comes from the East. Japanese company new Exquisage Beauty Revealing Serum (€80) and Cream
Shiseido was the first in its country to offer sunscreen to a (€70), that target skin ageing problems such as plumpness
nation of women who have been concerned with protecting of skin, fatigue and luminosity, but with a focus on optimal
their complexions for longer than those in the west. This year, renewal of the skin rather than shedding years.
it launches its Wetforce line of sun care, which for the first time
turns the traditional chemical reaction of water on sunscreen SOUPING
(to dissolve it and decrease performance) on its head to actually
make it more effective. By using an ionic mineral sensor to The new juicing, souping is a wholesome way to detox
repel water, it actually amplifies the efficacy of the SPF after the body and is championed by beauty experts as having
contact with water by 10 per cent. It may not seem like a huge excellent benefits for the skin. Unlike juicing, souping
deal, but in reality, sweat and any water activity is making our retains fibre, which is good for your immune system and
SPF less effective on a day-to-day as well as seasonal basis; if removal of toxins. Endorsements, if they were needed,
we can improve the way our sun protection works, we will be come via Gwyneth Paltrow, who included soup recipes in
targeting some of today’s most common skincare concerns like each day of her Goop detox and the arrival of bone broth
pigmentation, sun damage and of course help protect ourselves kiosks in New York City, pioneered by chef Marco Canora’s
against skin cancers. Brodo booth and a big hit with paleo dieters. According
Having dealt with dull or pigmented complexions, women to Julia March (NYC skin guru and acupuncturist), broth
still want a ‘youthful’ appearance. The major difference in this strengthens the skin tissues and suppresses inflammation,
area is that we don’t want to be talked to in a particular age including acne. Pass the ladle.
demographic anymore, nor be told that as we age our lines are
unacceptable (see our side note on The Ageless Consumer). DIGITAL MAKEOVER
Instead, we want to work as naturally as we can to look
as good as we can for our age, or preferably, without any Embracing the digital age means it’s easier than ever to
reference or allusion to our age at all. Instead of focusing on investigate your skin at deeper levels, and project how it
the anti-age market, the focus has very much shifted towards might look with certain treatments and be as diagnostic
re-identifying the secrets behind a fresh looking face. For as possible with treatment. Newly launched in Ireland,
example, Clarins’ experts undertook a huge study to try to the Pastiche PDM is a measuring device used by the Skin
identify the five keys to making the eye area more youthful. Essentials by Mariga clinic in Wexford. It gives a better
They found that an approach that goes beyond targeting crow’s than ever close up and personal view of skin cells measuring
feet is necessary for that more subtle way of regenerating the things like lipid level pigmentation, wrinkle depth and the
area, taking a temple-to-temple approach with it’s latest Super biological age of the skin. Meanwhile, the makeup world is
Restorative Total Eye Concentrate. all over digitising its offerings. Late last year, L’Oréal Paris
It uses an organic extract, harungana, to tackle loss of launched its Makeup Genius app (free on iTunes), which
registers 64 facial points and gives an instant 3D image of
your face trialling any number of L’Oréal Paris products.
Newly launched in Brown Thomas this month, YSL Beauté
and Google Glass now record a makeup tutorial from
the makeup artist’s perspective as you get your makeup
application so you can recreate the same look at home.

beautyskin

“Contouring, which has been 3INGREDIENTS
huge in makeup, is now YOU NEED TO
making its way into skincare” KNOW:

density and the whole area – including the line for 2015 and beyond in the Fulvic Fulvic Acid
dark circles, puffiness and drooping world of skincare solutions. “Newly Acid
lids – are treated at once. discovered ingredients, based on The wonder antioxidant
delivery technologies and cellular- taking natural skincare
Contouring, which has been huge based products,” she told us, the by storm. Look out for it,
in makeup and is now making its way likes of which include the advances especially if you suffer
into skincare, is another trick which in stem cell research which has led from acne or inflamed
‘lifts’ and alludes to youth without to their latest launch. The new Stem skin conditions.
focusing on deep wrinkles. Lancôme’s Cells Phyto-Elite Collection (coming
new Renergie Multi-Lift is a this May) uses two stem cell sources Seaweed
renovation of one of the brand’s most to boost cellular regeneration in a
popular creams, including something concentration that is five to ten times We always knew Irish wonder company VOYA
they have dubbed ‘space biology’. higher than what is currently available were on to something, now the rest of the
The exclusive ingredient comes by the on the market. “This has represented world is taking note. Nourishing, detoxing
way of Up-Cohesion technology – a a big leap in skin care because it and a natural resource to boot.
combination of active ingredients that, has taken it to a more clinical level
tested in simulated microgravity, can category of skin solutions outside the Chia Seed
work to redefine facial contours and medical office,” Chandler explained.
lift. It came about when biologists “Stem cells in skincare have We’ve had it on our cereal, but guess
noticed that astronauts suffered a represented a revolution that for the what? Next we’ll be putting it on our
higher rate of loss of firmness than first time was aimed at addressing one faces. Look to pioneering brand Perricone
others, leading the Lancôme labs to of the key problems in skin ageing, MD and its Chia Serum for inspiration.
investigate the components of the skin repair at cellular level, and as research
responsible for tautness and firmness. continues the results become more
Now available in three textures, the impressive. Stem Cells have certainly
recommendation for the use of this marked the difference between anti-
space-age technology has surprisingly ageing and age reversal.”
ancient roots. Latching on to yet
another upcoming trend in skincare, Chandler agrees that instead of
the recommendation from Lancôme staunch anti-ageing, the needs of the
is to use a two-minute facial massage customer has changed. “Customers
technique, to help re-sculpt the wanting a more solid and effective
contours of the face. solution at truly repairing the skin
rather than covering up the signs
It’s a two-pronged approach that is of ageing have been the strongest
being advocated by spa professionals. motivation,” she says when asked
According to Amy Kenny of the what is driving the future of skincare.
five-star Monart Spa in Wexford, “Savvy consumers have constantly
facials remain the single most popular demanded advanced results.”
treatment choice. “It’s moved towards
facials which provide instant and It’s possible and probable that plant
lasting results,” says Kenny. “And stem cells are going to play a big
facials combined with specifically part in our skincare regimes moving
created home care lines that provide forward. Grounded in hard science,
ongoing lasting effects, like the they are a natural resource, and fit
Pevonia Micro-Retinol peel and in with the new desire to take care in
recapture facial we launched last year. the ingredients we put on our skin.
Not only that, labs are making quick
“The use of retinol and micro- leaps and bounds into making them
retinol has become hugely popular more and more effective, meaning the
in skincare of late,” she added, and possibility of finding our optimum
as the main distributors for leading skin becomes ever within reach.
skincare brand Pevonia in Ireland, Whatever the future holds, the most
they are able to offer customers its comforting trend has got to be the
ground-breaking beauty first. The shift in psychology that allows women
brand carries the ethos that the most to feel good about their skin at every
powerful ingredients in skincare stage of life. We no longer need to
come from nature and has spent two consider our skincare as anti-ageing.
decades securing its place at the helm And who wants to feel bad about
of natural skincare solutions with getting a little older? Now we can
highly effective results. Pevonia’s look forward to a future that is pro-
Director Daniela Chandler shared looking good, whatever your age.
her insights into what’s coming down