Soul Food Ireland

Oysters at
Klaw

SOUL FOOD

The wildest ocean on earth surrounds our beautiful island with some of the
finest seafood literally on our doorstep. Norah Casey charts the best seafood

restaurants with rooms for summer jaunts around Ireland.

Summer evenings were made for on a trawler to fish for mackerel in emporium and grew out of a fish-shop
the freshest of fish, a chilled glass Donegal. But there is another reason that opened over 70 years ago; it’s not
of wine and a room with a stunning I love fish and seafood – the health your average restaurant. It takes time
sea view. Sometimes the best holidays benefits. Not only is it full of high- and commitment to dine here – but it’s
are within a stone’s throw of home. quality protein, iodine and various worth it. Chef Noel Cusack’s menu is
A beautiful restaurant with rooms, a vitamins and minerals it is also the best written on the day based on whatever
gastronomic adventure and time to source of omega-3 fatty acids, which the Irish fishing fleets have brought in.
savour the spectacular landscape we are really important for the body and 58/59 Glasthule Road, Glasthule, Co
often take for granted. Wherever I go brain. Fatty fish like salmon, trout, Dublin; Tel: 01 280 9120; cavistons.com
in the world I try to stick to fish and sardines, tuna and mackerel boost your
produce from the rivers and oceans. I brain power and help keep your heart FISHY FISHY
have been fishing since I was a teenager healthy. Fish is also the best dietary With awards aplenty, Martin and
when my brother Ciaran and I would source for Vitamin D which, in our Marie Shanahan’s Fishy Fishy Café is
escape to Dún Laoghaire and throw sun-starved country, is often deficient. one of the high kings of Irish seafood
a line from the pier or wade through I take Krill Oil every day, but the best cuisine. A daily-changing menu
the undergrowth to get to the Liffey way, of course, is to indulge in some features only that morning’s catch
at the Strawberry Beds. My son Dara fantastic seafood at a great restaurant. and the cooking is excellent: simple
developed a passion at eight years of and confident, allowing the beauty of
age when we spent a day in the lashing Here’s a roundup of my favourite the fish to shine through. So a truly
rain, knee deep in mud, catching wild ones in Ireland from fine dining to pub wonderful place for lunch or dinner.
brown trout for breakfast at the Park food. Perfect for a summer jaunt. The only downside is that there’s a no
Hotel in Kenmare. We have fished with reservations policy for lunch so you
simple line and hooks all over Africa, CAVISTONS SEAFOOD often need to wait for a table.
on the rivers of Australia, from the RESTAURANT Crowley’s Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork;
back of a boat in the Grenadines and Small, crowded and quirky, Cavistons Tel: 021 470 0415; fishyfishy.ie
is a family run restaurant and a food

LIVING

KLAW “It is perched right over the water with the
No list of seafood restaurants in Ireland would fishing boats literally docking at its front door.
be complete without mentioning Klaw. This Firm favourites include deep fried calamari served
crabshack style restaurant is at the forefront of with lightly spiced tomato sauce”
the seafood movement; Niall Sabongi and his
team are dedicated to delivering the freshest Surf and turf at Howth Classic fish ‘n chips
seafood to the diners of the city. The menu, eatery Aqua at Sole
the food, the chef all make Klaw a dining
experience worth having. Klaw’s fresh-from-the-
5A Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin; sea shellfish
Tel: (01) 549 3443; klaw.ie
Award-winning Martin
AQUA Shanahan at Fishy, Fishy
Located in the old Howth Yacht Club, on
the west pier, Aqua is perched right over the Fine dining in a relaxed
water with fishing boats literally docking at its setting at the seafood bar
front door. Firm favourites include deep fried at Deanes
calamari served with lightly spiced tomato
sauce, whole sea bass with oven roasted
vegetables and pan-fried fillet of halibut with
mussels and dill-cream sauce. The view from the
dining room of the open sea dotted with sailing
boats is nothing short of spectacular.
1 West Pier, Howth, Co Dublin; Tel: 01 832
0690; aqua.ie

MORAN’S OYSTER COTTAGE
Moran’s is an institution, and rightly so. Set
next to a picturesque weir in an old stone
cottage (built more than 250 years ago) it has
a warren of rooms. Close by is the home of the
oyster, Clarinbridge, which hosts an annual
oyster festival and its walls are adorned with
photographs of previous patrons including
former Taoisigh Charles Haughey, Albert
Reynolds and Jack Lynch along with legendary
film stars such as Pierce Brosnan and Roger
Moore. A visit between September and April
will allow you to try a platter of in season
native Edulis oysters.
The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co Galway; Tel: 091
796113; moransoystercottage.com

O’DOWD’S SEAFOOD BAR
This cosy pub, complete with fire and snug, is a
watchword for great seafood. Run by Nicholas
Griffin, locals flock here for such signature
dishes as O’ Dowd’s seafood chowder (using
only fresh local crab, salmon, prawns, mussels
and haddock), stuffed mussels with garlic and
breadcrumbs; hot buttered lobster and ocean
rolls – fillets of plaice stuffed with seafood in a
dill sauce.
Roundstone, Co Galway; Tel: 09535809;
odowdsrestaurant.com

Ruairí and Marie-Therese, the husband and wife team Making the best use of glass for panoramic
behind Inis Meain Restaurant and Suites views, it has a passionate food philosophy
thanks to husband and wife team, local man
Halibut at the Cliff and chef Ruairí de Blacam and his Cork-
House Hotel born wife Marie-Thérèse. Ruairí uses only
locally sourced produce and his philosophy
DEANES LOVE FISH of ‘elemental eating’ ensures that they are
Great fish and seafood served up in a contemporary conservatory style presented with simplicity with only two
restaurant by restaurant entrepreneur and Michelin star chef Michael ingredients to each dish. Open from April to
Deane. Love Fish is one of seven restaurants in his portfolio with September, book early.
outstanding local dishes served in an elegant 100 seater dining space. Inis Meáin, Aran Island ,Co Galway Tel: 086
Clean lines, white walls and great seafood. 826 6026; inismeain.com
28-40 Howard Street, Belfast BT1 6PF; Tel: 0044 (0)28 9033 1134;
michaeldeane.co.uk JACK’S COASTGUARD STATION
MOURNE SEAFOOD BAR BAR & SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
The Mourne Seafood bars in Dundrum, and Belfast are unique in that People rave about Jack’s in Cromane. They talk
they source all their shellfish from their very own shellfish beds. The of the setting, an old Coastguard Station and
Belfast outpost is a great place to grab a super-fresh fish lunch or casual the view, overlooking Rossbeigh Beach and
supper. It has its own wet fish counter with everything from fish and Inch Peninsula. But most of all they talk of the
chips to their own Grade A Carlingford oysters, or buckets of beautifully food, especially the signature dishes of Cromane
cooked mussels. Be sure to book, it is extremely popular. mussels, tiger prawns or perfect seared scallops.
34-36 Bank Street, (beside Kelly Cellars), Belfast BT1 1HL; Tel: 0044 Another great reason to visit Kerry.
(0)28 9024 8544; mourneseafood.com Waters Edge, Cromane, Killorglin, Co Kerry;
INIS MEÁIN RESTAURANT AND SUITES Tel: 066 976 9102; jackscromane.com
This unique restaurant on remote Inis Meáin is simply breath-taking.
CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL
An award-winning scenic restaurant with
great seafood offerings, always served with an
interesting twist. The House Restaurant is a
Michelin star recipient and head chef, Martijn
Kajuiter, prides himself in sourcing as much
produce as possible from the beautiful waters
around the south coast of Ireland. Always an
interesting experience with plenty of surprises.
Middle Road, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Tel: 024 87800; cliffhousehotel.ie

SOLE SEAFOOD & GRILL
I dined at Sole on the eve of its grand opening
and enjoyed the lobster and stunning Dublin
Bay Prawns. I love seafood and this is a great
addition to the Dublin scene combining fine
dining with a great choice of fish and shellfish.
Head Chef Richie Wilson aims to deliver an
experiential dining occasion for his customers,
so the emphasis is on luxury seafood with great
Irish oysters, fresh lobster and seasonal specials.
Sth William St, Dublin 2; Tel: 01 544 2300; sole.ie

VAUGHAN’S ANCHOR INN
I love Vaughans for the buzz and the eclectic
mix of clientele from locals to tourists and wine
aficionados. This is a great restaurant with a
fantastic buzzy atmosphere and (they tell me)
a great pint of Guinness. A family restaurant
that has been running for nearly 40 years, it

LIVING

is hardly a surprise that their menu is one to for the warm service, simply served fresh fish and shellfish
salivate over. The smoked salmon alone is well and a lovely busting atmosphere. The dishes are colourful,
worth the visit. plentiful and varied and there is an option for all seafood
Main Street, Liscannor, Co Clare; Tel: 065 708 lovers.
1548; vaughans.ie Lower Bridge St, Killorglin; Tel: 066 976 1219; nicks.ie

O’CONNORS SEAFOOD MORRISSEY’S SEAFOOD BAR AND
RESTAURANT GRILL
A Michelin guide recommendation for A great little spot in Doonbeg serving seafood with a view
eight years running with a menu that boasts (and rooms). Try the Wild Doonbeg crab claws or the local
Oysterhaven oysters, pots of mussels and Organic Burren Smoked Salmon for starters and the main
monkfish and venison risotto as a signature course special is some fantastic fish and chips. The true
dish, all add up to the charm of this picturesque selling point of this transformed pub is the setting on the
restaurant in Bantry. Head Chef Anne Marie river at Doonbeg with great views while you dine.
Butler has created a blended menu merging Main St, Doonbeg, Co Clare Tel: 065 905 5304;
traditional meals like fish and chips with a morrisseysdoonbeg.ie
modern slant – two types of fish served perfectly
– making the most of what the ocean has to offer QC’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT BAR AND
in this pretty seaside town in West Cork. T O W N H O U S E 
Wolfe Tone Square, Bantry, Co. Cork; Tel: 027 Doubling as a restaurant and guesthouse, QC’s promises
55664; oconnorsseafood.com a warm intimate setting along the Wild Atlantic Way. This
restaurant serves only sustainable and fresh wild Irish local
KEALY’S SEAFOOD BAR fish, supplied by their own company ‘Quinlan’s Kerry Fish.’
The Wild Atlantic way boasts some spectacular Their menu is varied and offers a lot of choice for diners,
scenery, historic and geographical wonders and from contemporary dishes served with avocado salsa to
of course the one and only Kealy’s Seafood Bar. Cromane mussels. It is a welcoming restaurant that is a true
The restaurant is situated in the fishing town of hidden gem in the heart of Cahersiveen.
Greencastle so all the produce used is fresh and Quinlan & Cooke Townhouse; Tel: 066 947 2244; qc.ie
seasonable. The menu changes to reflect what
the ocean has to offer and is a blend of modern STRAND INN HOTEL WATERFORD  
dishes with local and global influences. So next On the menu at this beach style coastal Inn is a fantastic
time you are exploring the West, be sure to add selection from local waters including Dunmore East Seafood
this restaurant to your itinerary. Chowder, Duncannon Mussels with the restaurant’s signature
The Harbour, Greencastle, Co Donegal; Tel: black bean and ginger sauce, flavoursome Bouillabaisse with
074 938 1010; kealysseafoodbar.ie locally caught fish and fresh seafood specials posted daily.
The Inn has 15 bedrooms and panoramic views over Hook
KING SITRIC Head and the ocean. The perfect spot to unwind.
Great seafood ambassadors and restaurateurs Nymphhall, Dunmore East, Co Waterford; Tel: 051 383 174;
of Ireland Aidan and Joan MacManus run King thestrandinn.com
Sitric in Howth, with son Declan, managing the
new café-bar downstairs. The restaurant has Beautiful rooms
been a staple on the seafront for over 40 years, with a view at
delivering picturesque views accompanied by The Strand Inn
the soundtrack of the sea and fresh seafood
dishes on the table. I have fond memories of a
wonderful meal there with Richard many years
ago: fantastic classic fish, seafood dishes and
award-winning home made soda bread!
East Pier, Howth, Co Dublin; Tel: 01 832 5235;
kingsitric.ie

NICK’S SEAFOOD & GASTRO The Atlantic coast on
BAR the steps of Quinlan
This is a busy family run gastro bar serving and Cooke
excellent seafood with a side of superb piano
playing. Book ahead, it is really worth a visit