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Published by Harmonia Norah, 2017-09-28 12:24:01



The Women






Meet three inspiring industry pros whose
9-5s are helping you stay in style

Words & Images: Nathalie Marquez Courtney

The Stylist: C o u r t n e y S m i t h
“I was always drawn to fashion.
There are photos of me cutting up of different magazines. Then you there. Then it’s time to pick up all the
my parents’ clothes when I was start liaising with with your team - clothes – you’ll often find me walking
seven and doing fashion shows. collaborating with the photographer down Grafton Street with arms full of
and hair and makeup stylists. It’s bags! I go to CrossFit every morning to
One photoshoot equals about three always a very collaborative process. stay fit because there’s a lot of stuff to
to five days of prep. Usually, it starts carry around.
with a meeting with the editor or Then, of course, I have to touch
client, fleshing out ideas, creating base with all the brands. If it’s an Shoot day for me is the funnest
a mood board. So lots of research editorial shoot, you want to get part. At the moment, I’m working
on Pinterest, and looking at tons some high end, some high street, on an autumn story and we’re going
some vintage so there’s a nice mix in for a polished bohemian vibe - it’s


“The catwalks are being
driven by street style”

an A/W trend story, but we’re not roll. I gravitate towards colours and I recently did a shoot that was
quite ready to admit it’s winter, print more than trends, to be honest. kind of The Craft meets The Virgin
so we’ll keep a nice bit of colour Whenever I’m buying vintage, it’s the Suicides. They were the movies that
and pattern. I’m loving the idea of colours and prints that get me. I don’t I would watch when I was younger
florals for autumn; you always see even look at the sizes anymore - if I’ve and I noticed that whole ‘90s
them in summer, but they can work fallen in love with it, I’ll buy it and vibe was back - the floral dresses,
in autumn/winter too. then get it altered in the Zip Yard. grungy boots and chokers. It’s
everywhere now, but the girls on
My own look is always undone, I’m The catwalks are very much being the street were wearing that before
never too polished. I love rock and driven by street style. I love people the catwalks were doing it.”
roll, even my shoe line with Buffalo watching and often get inspired by
Shoe Lab was inspired by rock and street style for my photoshoots.

The Designer: J i l l D e B u r c a

“I’m a fashion designer, but my background is in
textiles and embroidery. Around 2008, I was working
part-time in an office and struggling away, making
things for markets and things like that. A friend told
me about Larch Rose, a highly creative fashion and
textile studio in the UK. I went for a three month
internship and ended up staying five years, becoming
Head of Embellishment Embroidery.

They were very fashion forward, but focused a lot on
hand-crafting; it was a really inspiring place to work. They
produced designs for every designer you can think of, in New
York, Australia, LA, London, both high street and catwalk.
Lots of people don’t know that side of the industry even
exists. The fashion industry has such a quick turnaround, lots
of fashion houses and labels wouldn’t have time to employ
designers specifically for a technique so freelance companies
like ours would do it. While there I also started working for
master embroiderer Jenny King. We got to work on dresses

for Gwyneth Paltrow, Anna
Wintour and Stella McCartney”

for Gwyneth Paltrow and Anna Wintour as well as collections
for Stella McCartney, Mary Katrantzou and Erdem.

It’s also where I learned to use the Irish Signer sewing
machine. They used to be used for Irish dancing costumes,
they’re real workhorses. But learning how to use them is
tough - it’s a little bit like driving a car!

When I decided to move home and start my own
collections, I didn’t really focus on trends. I’ve always
looked to nature, and everything always comes from that.
I have a lot of reoccurring themes all the time; insects is
a big one. I deliberately decided to keep things small. I
buy from independent suppliers and I don’t buy a lot of
bulk or disposable things. I think what makes it special is
that it is all made here in Dublin. People appreciate that
more, when there are only so many pieces and they can
see where they come from and the work goes into them.
Things last longer if they’re made with love.”

The High Street Buyer: B a r b a r a L e o n a r d

“I started with Primark as a trainee buyer nine
years ago - I’ve always had a passion for retail and
fashion so I knew this was the job for me. I love the
opportunity of bringing creativity into a business
role, it’s a good balance.

Every day is different in Primark. Hectic, but I wouldn’t
have it any other way. My day could consist of a range of
development meetings, catching up with the design team
on new emerging trends, or planning how we will land
looks in stores through windows, social media and web.
And of course, there’s travel. We go all over the world
for inspiration. One day you’re in the office planning for
the season ahead and the next day you’re in New York or
Seoul looking for the latest trends.

We’re always looking ahead here, always moving onto
the next thing - sometimes you’re over a trend before it
has even taken off on the high street! We’re currently
planning spring/summer 2018. We’re at a very exciting
point in the calendar where we begin to plan a fresh

looking for the latest trends”

season, looking for new ideas and inspiration.
My friends and family ask me what’s coming up all

the time! They want to know what’s happening for
next season so that they’re in the loop. Red is a key
colour for autumn/winter and don’t be afraid to wear
it head to toe as tonal dressing is a big trend. The
midi dress length is key, in woodland floral prints and
fun faux fur accessories. We’re covering all these in
our A/W range and I’m so excited to see them land in
stores over the coming months.

My inspiration comes from travel - Tokyo, Seoul and
LA, for colour and trims, and cities like London and right
here in Dublin for emerging street trends. I like taking
key pieces and putting my own spin on things through
accessorising, wow shoes or an amazing coat. I love
vintage styling and I’m always inspired by past trends. At
the moment I’m all about the ‘80s - shoulder pads, cinched
in waists and power dressing with suits and blazers.”

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