Greek Islands & Italy Cruise

LIVING

CRUISE LIFE Mediterranean lapping the shoreline. Norah Casey takes to the Modern art in
We drove over 20 kilometres finally seas on her first cruise ancient Valetta
Norah Casey goes on her first cruise and discovers the delights of island heading up into the hills on narrow
winding roads passing olive groves and docked early in the morning and within Verdict: Valetta is one of the most
hopping, ancient ruins and life on board Celebrity Reflection. trees heavy with oranges and lemons to minutes of disembarking we were on unusual cities we visited. I would love to
the small village of Savoca. Although the Upper Barrakka lift which for one return to see some of the other cultural
Day 1 of the ship for a glass of wine while the Sicilian side. This was a day for a this little community is frequented by euro will whisk you up 58 metres in 20 highlights outside the capital.
ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) the crazy cruise virgins were scoping shore excursion and we were heading Godfather fans it still looks much like it seconds from the Grand Harbour to the Day 4
the ship. "We always take the first few to Don Corleone country to visit the did back in the 1970s. Upper Barrakka Gardens and Valletta AT SEA
Departs 5pm hours quietly until things calm down", villages and sights made famous by city, saving you a 20-minute climb. Day 5
When we landed at the airport in they told me. Francis Ford Coppola in the classic Our guide tells us that the real MYKONOS
Rome, we were met by Celebrity Cruise Godfather movies watched by millions. town of Corleone (with the real mafia Valletta was nothing like I expected. Tendered 7am to 6pm
representatives in the baggage hall. And things did calm down (a lot) Although mainly shot in New York heritage) is south of Palermo but was For one thing the current European After a day at sea we arrived at one
Once we collected our luggage and when the compulsory muster drill some iconic scenes were filmed at too modern for the 1940s era Coppola City of Culture has surreal white art of the most beautiful Greek islands.
made our way through customs they was announced later that afternoon. two tiny villages near Taormina, was trying to recreate. installations through the old city where Stepping on to the balcony that
were whisked away by the Celebrity Crew members guided us to our which between them were depicted Our first stop was the 18th Century a glimpse of a stern Queen Victoria can
crew and the next time we saw them muster station – the drill was a mini, as the town of Corleone. We headed Bar Vitelli, where time has stood still be viewed over a gigantic stone head
was in our stateroom on board the James Bond-style feature film, that away from the harbour dominated over the decades. The café and bar with a finger in one ear. I also expected
Celebrity Reflection that afternoon as managed to get all the safety points by the gilded seven-metre-tall statue look just like it did in the movie except it to be more British and even though
we embarked on our 11-day adventure. across in a funny, engaging way. It got of Stele Madonna della Lettera (Our for the addition of memorabilia and there are odd legacies like red post
Embarkation day truly separates out my attention and it helped to ease the Lady of the Letter) the patron saint old photographs from the filming boxes, the city is very much Maltese.
the seasoned cruisers from the novices. Titanic-esque jitters knowing what to of Messina. On the seawall below the haphazardly hung on an inside wall.
The newbies were crowding around do should the unmentionable happen. golden Madonna is the inscription And while the table where Michael Founded in 1565, this World
the pool, bars, anywhere with food as ‘Vos et ipsam civitatem benedicimus’, Corleone, Fabrizio and Calo sat is Heritage city offered refuge to pilgrims
the novelty of the sheer scale of the Day 2 translated as I bless you and your city. different, there is one in exactly the and crusaders en route to the Holy
different levels, bars, shops, casino, SICILY (MESSINA) The message is said to have been sent same place with the doorway adorned Land. It has untold treasures from the
theatre, games room, library, multiple Docked 10am to 7pm in a letter from the Virgin Mary to in the same beaded curtains. We glorious baroque church interiors to
restaurants, sunny skies, smiling bar After the early morning excitement of Messina in 42AD. stopped for a Granita and to wander the colourful seafront balconies. There
staff shaking piña coladas – it was a passing through the Strait of Messina inside and imagine the excitement and are some 320 historic monuments
sensory overload of excitement. Later I (the narrow channel between the As we drove south along the coast upheaval to this rural community when crammed into the capital which
met a couple on their umpteenth cruise northeast of Sicily and the toe of Italy) I had a moment of regret as we passed the film crew descended. A little further UNESCO describes as ‘one of the
who had settled into the quietest corner our first port of call was Messina on spectacular beaches and the beautiful up from the bar is the Church of Santa most concentrated historic areas in the
Lucia where Michael and Apollonia world’. But the city is full of surprises,
were wed. We lit candles and recreated with contemporary design blending
their journey with the wedding party with the prehistoric temples and ancient
back down the small hill to Bar Vitelli. ruins from its 7,000-year history. To
put it in context, Valetta is a small city,
Verdict: At ports like Messina it is not but it is the place we explored all day
that easy to wander from the dockside without stopping for more than a quick
into town, so this shore excursion was coffee and still did not feel we had
unusual and exciting for Godfather fans. enough time to see it all.

Day 3
VALLET TA

Docked 8am to 6pm
The most spectacular arrival in to
any harbour is at the medieval city
of Valetta, Malta. The beautifully
preserved fortifications built by the
Knights of Malta, the early morning
glow over the stone, the distinctive
outlines of the Carmelite Church dome
and St Paul's Cathedral spire: It truly is
the home of Game of Thrones.

I had never been to Malta before, so I
was really looking forward to exploring
the beautifully preserved capital. We

LIVING

The Parthenon designer brands in little backstreets various theories hotly debated in the PHOTOGRAPHS BY NORAH CASEY USING CANON POWERSHOT have been the spot, but we sat alongside the way down and headed off on foot through narrow passageways) being up
amid the classical Cycladic architecture. classics world put the gigantic statue SX710HS; CANON POWERSHOT SX60HS; CANON EOS 100D a fisherman at one of the two column dodging the donkeys heading back to close to these magnificent columns and
morning was magical, transported Mykonos still feels more bohemian of freedom astride the harbour gates or statues symbolically erected where the the harbour-side to await their next ancient ruins was spectacular. Although
overnight into this sun-drenched than glitzy. We were day trippers so more towards the Acropolis higher up Greek Titan might have stood. load. At the bottom we stopped for the tour had a guide who cleverly spoke
pristine white and blue oasis. Mykonos didn’t get to experience the stunning on the hills above this UNESCO World the inevitable souvenir but for once we into our earpieces as we, by now, were
looked glorious and I couldn’t wait to sunset at Venice beach or the night Heritage town. Verdict: I would return to Rhodes to visit couldn’t decide what we might want to so dispersed among the throngs I had
get off the ship to discover its beauty. clubs that stay open until dawn. But we some of the smaller and quieter villages. take back to remind us of Santorini. my own personal tutor walking along
walked well away from the town until Rhodes, with its sandstone side me. And here’s what I learned from
The ship tenders here, which means it we found a lovely tranquil veranda for architecture, Byzantine churches and Day 7 Verdict: I know there are many beautiful my budding classics scholar.
stays in deeper water and smaller boats a late lunch and a glass of chilled rosé, mosques is quite different to the other SANTORINI places in Santorini and someday I will
ferry us to the harbour at the main one of the best days of the cruise. Greek islands. We set off to wander the Tendered 7am to 6pm go back but since my return I have read The Acropolis incorporates several
town, Chora. Better still there was no old town passing through the growing The island I was most looking forward many posts from residents and tourists buildings but only three main temples,
grand plan for ancient ruins for the day Verdict: Mykonos, it was by far my crowds in Jewish Martyrs Square to to visiting was Santorini and yet it about the mistreatment and abuse of the the largest being the Parthenon which
ahead. We left the harbour before the favourite destination on the cruise and it explore the cobblestone streets, passing didn’t turn out the way I imagined. donkeys and I hope the island takes note. was built in honour of the goddess
crowds and delved into the backstreets. is on the list for a return visit. the beautiful Greek Orthodox church We had been warned that there was Athena who is the patron god and
First stop was breakfast as we had and stopping to watch the excavations only one way up and one way down Day 8 namesake of Athens itself. At the heart
opted for a very early start to beat the Day 6 at the Roman Triconch Building. Our to reach the town of Fira 200 metres ATHENS (PIRAEUS) of the temple was a 42-foot-high
rush. Now we sat in solo splendour in a RHODES stroll took us by the Kahal Kadosh at the top of this volcanic rock island Docked 6am to 6pm statue of the goddess created from
sunny taverna devouring creamy Greek Docked 7:30am to 6pm Shalom Synagogue in the Jewish and that was by a cable car gondola Athens was always going to be the chryselephantine (a mixture of gold
yogurt drenched in honey (nothing like We woke early as the ship docked at quarter and on to the Grand Masters system that sometimes had queues highlight of the trip as the Acropolis and ivory). What makes the Parthenon
what we buy in supermarkets here). We the beautiful medieval town of Rhodes, Palace. There are treasures to be of an hour or longer. The alternative has long been on Dara’s bucket list, so unique is that it has both metopes
emerged into the whitewashed lanes excited to trace the origins of one the found in the old town amid the tourist was a long hike by foot, or worse, I can’t do justice to the excitement of (miniature statue-esque sculptures
with hues of blues and jade and bright eight wonders of the ancient world. stalls and street cafés, one of the most by donkey. As an animal lover and us finally docking at Piraeus. There is separated by three lines in the marble,
pink flowers spilling over balconies and Once conquered by the knights of beautiful being the Street of the Knights conservationist, I was horrified by the a large map of the world on the wall also known as triglyphs) and a metre-
stairwells. It is no wonder Mykonos Saint John of Jerusalem Rhodes, the lined with the ancient inns of different hordes of donkeys in the blaring sun of his bedroom and for as long as I high continuous frieze encircling the
has become the Ibiza of the Cyclades, largest of the Dodecanese Islands, is languages (tongues) of the Knights huddled together waiting for the next can remember there has been a pin in ceiling of the inner building. The
popular among some of the world’s also home to another gem on my son Hospitaller. Our sat nav was set gaggle of tourists to carry to the top. Athens as top of all the places he ever Parthenon has a large series of columns
wealthiest and well-known celebrities. Dara’s hit list – the ruins of the Temple however for the pretty, and thankfully Our daily news sheet had warned us wanted to visit. and was severely damaged during
Back in the sixties it was a magnet for of Aphrodite. We had a lot of walking partially shaded, Symi Square just about the mistreatment of the donkeys. the 1687 siege by the Venetians. The
the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Jacqueline ahead. In oceanic terms this ancient inside the Eleftherias Gate (Gate of One overweight man with his feet We headed out from the port in the second most significant temple is the
Kennedy Onassis, and Grace Kelly. Christian stronghold sits northeast of Freedom). After wandering around dragging along the trail laughed loudly early morning on a shore excursion (A Erechtheion, named after one of the
Today, Leonardo DiCaprio, Paris Crete, to the south and east of Athens we found an unassuming collection of as the poor donkey hauled him up the Taste of Athens) for the 30-minute drive kings of Athens. It was also a temple
Hilton, Ariana Grande, the Kardashians and just off the coast of Turkey. The ancient stones we were finally among steep paths. I lost quite a bit of time to the base of one of the world’s most to the god Poseidon and in honour
and Mariah Carey are regulars with search was on to find where exactly the remains of the shrine to the goddess watching this and wondering at the iconic sights. Acropolis were plentiful of Athena. On the north side the
Lindsay Lohan opening her own the Colossus of Rhodes really stood as of love dating back to the 3rd century stupidity of people who could use their in ancient Rome (the highest point of distinctive Porch of the Maidens with
resort there last month. We spent BC. We sat for a while imagining this own two legs to climb the path (it took every city) but Athens boasts the best- its columns of six women {caryatids}
hours wandering through the maze of glorious Temple of Aphrodite from us only 25 minutes). It took a while preserved temples on this rocky outcrop considered to represent the six
alleyways, surprised to find premium the ancient blocks and fallen columns to switch off from the upset I felt to overlooking the city. Setting aside the priestesses of Athena is a beautifully
scattered among the ruins. enjoy the beauty of the town. Fira is hordes of tourists who joined us on the preserved façade. The smallest of the
very lovely but the narrow pathways climb (at times so crowded we shuffled three is the Temple of Athena Nike,
After lunch under the shade of a tree are crowded with cruise traffic in the
in a small garden restaurant we set off early morning and we escaped off to a Aphrodite's Port of Rhodes
to walk along Mandraki Harbour to beautiful old church for some solitude Temple
find the spot where the feet of Colossus and quite time. When we emerged, we
might have stood. Although it only set off on foot in the opposite direction
stood for 56 years the Colossus of to the town and walked along the cliffs
Rhodes, a statue of the Greek sun-god with some stunning views over the
Helios, was one of the tallest statues sea and the blue and white rooftops
of the ancient world. It was destroyed of Santorini. From this vantage point
by an earthquake in 226 BC and along the island was picture postcard perfect
with the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and at the end of the path was a lovely
and the Great Pyramid of Giza it was restaurant perched on the edge of the
one of the eight wonders of the world. cliff where we relaxed for an hour
However, the biggest wonder perhaps or so gazing out over the yachts and
has always been where exactly it stood ships drifting in the beautiful azure
with many artists featuring the 33 blue seas. We skipped the cable car on
metre Helios astride the harbour walls.
There is little evidence that this might

Blue skies and white
churches in Mykonos

steep hillside tumbling down to the that moment in time. We will certainly had tried to rescue people. Pompeii is and silent. The last major eruption was
pretty pebble beach and spectacular be back. extraordinarily preserved because of captured by US air force bombers back
ocean views below. It looked like the lack of air and moisture due to the in 1944 as they flew past. It was hard
every picture postcard I had ever seen Last stop and by far the most eagerly volcanic ash. It offers the most detailed to imagine the scene 2,000 years ago
of Positano. We only had one hour anticipated was Pompeii. It was by now and fascinating insights into life in when she was spewing hot ash, pumice
to venture down the steep steps and late afternoon and the tourist traffic the 1st century frozen in a moment and molten hot lava on to Pompeii.
passageways to the shoreline and grab had died down. We headed out on to in time. The forum, Roman baths, A tragedy of such epic proportions
a quick espresso while watching the the large stone roads of this ancient inscriptions, wells and beautiful tiling which has made such a significant
constant sea traffic ferrying people to city preserved forever when Mount all there to see. Further excavations contribution to our understanding of
and from this sophisticated resort. The Vesuvius erupted in AD79 and it was recommenced this year and in April early civilisation. Worthy of a quiet
guide had warned us that the boutique buried under an estimated 20 feet of archaeologists discovered the skeleton moment in memory of those who lost
shopping was incredible with some volcanic ash. Tragically many of the of an eight-year-old child who had tried their lives within the ancient walls of
wonderful locally made designs. The 11,000 inhabitants died nearly 2,000 to hide in the public paths to escape this incredible place.
teenager and the timing meant I saved years ago with no time to escape such the devastation of the eruption. It was
on a splurge. Positano was busy and was the speed and ferocity of the a sobering visit. Fascinating in terms Verdict: I was so glad we did this tour
far more touristy than I expected. It eruption. Dara had already filled me in of the glimpse it offered into life in because although it was busy and long
was always on my bucket list, but I am on one of the most important sources this important city but also steeped in it was also varied. I won’t return to
not sure I will be rushing back. Far too of the catastrophe. A surviving letter sadness for all the lives, like that young Positano, I loved Sorrento and can’t wait
many tours crammed into a small space by a young man called Pliny who, boy, that were lost. As we went to leave to back and I am so glad I saw Pompeii,
and although the setting is idyllic it from a vantage point across the bay of the huge site we took one last glance it is well worth a visit.
was too crowded with ferry and cruise Naples described the death of his uncle, upwards at Mount Vesuvius, now calm
traffic to be enjoyable. an admiral of the Roman Fleet, who Day 11
Fishing boats at Sorrento ROME
Next stop was Sorrento and here Mykonos ( C I V I TAV E C C H I A )
dedicated to the goddess of victory, so philosophy and democracy. we were in a for a real treat. After Arrival: 5am
tiny that it is inaccessible to the public. It was a wonderful day – hard to top. wandering around the old town, I Finally, it was time to leave our
It was destroyed under the Ottoman was already imagining a return visit. beautiful floating home for the past 10
rule and has recently been rebuilt. Even Verdict: We want to go back and spend a It’s a very lovely town with beautiful days and our departure was as painless
with the crowd, the unrelenting sun whole week at least in Athens to view all artisan shops and cool little bars and and seamless as our arrival. Luggage
and the baking heat, the Acropolis is its great beauty and uncover its hidden restaurants. We had lunch at a beautiful was collected from outside the room
spectacular and while the Parthenon beauty (especially out of the tourist historic hotel overlooking the bay and the night before and left on the portside
was the big draw, Dara and I wandered season). as we were just settling into a lovely for us to take through customs. The
alone among some of the more deserted corner table overlooking the ocean bill is sent on electronically so there is
parts of the sites where restoration Day 9 the waiter told us we were in luck. no checking out procedure. Celebrity
work was underway and ancient AT SEA Within ten minutes of us sitting down had organised different coaches to take
stones and columns lay where they a spectacular flotilla of boats led by clients to various places, airports, train
had fallen. We caught it all on camera Day 10 a large flower strewn fishing vessel stations and the city. Dara and I were
and video but what I remember most NAPLES headed out from the harbour for the on our way to Rome for a few days, so
is the quieter moments of staring in Docked 7am to 6:30pm annual Madonna De Grazia (Day of we headed to the train station for our
wonderment at these world-famous Our last stop was the 2,800-year-old Thanks). All the boats in the bay were next adventure (see next month’s Irish
ruins and wondering what it must have port city of Naples, the home of pizza lined up respectfully in welcome and Tatler).
been like to see them in all their glory but also some amazing archaeological the towns people of Sorrento were out
astride the highest hilltop in Athens in and historical wonders, so much so that in force lining the ocean frontage to Positano
the fifth century when Pericles oversaw the city framed by Mount Vesuvius, is honour this patron saint of the town.
the construction of the temples. a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We As the lead vessel approached with the
decided to go further afield for our last statue of the Madonna and packed
Later, when we wandered through tour and opted for a whistle-stop tour with local dignitaries a firework display
the narrow cobblestone streets of Plaka of Positano, Sorrento and Pompeii. We erupted in celebration. And here we
in the shadow of the Acropolis we were on the road early to avoid the were, on today of all days, at just the
took some time to savour the beauty rush hour traffic and before long we right moment to catch a bird’s eye view
of seeing those ancient temples after were driving along the Amalfi coast of one of the most important events
all those years. We lingered over a with beautiful Positano carved out in Sorrento sitting at the best table in
long lunch in a beautiful old square of the cliffs below. This was a small town. You couldn’t have planned it. The
under the shade of a plane tree. We tour, so our little minibus was able to experience made our visit to Sorrento
were finally in the city where Western manouvre the steep winding road with amazing. We loved the ambiance and
civilisation was born some 2500 its colourful houses carved out of the the people and most especially our
years ago – the home of classicism, great fortune of choosing to be there at

CRUISE Lawn Club Girl
ESSENTIALS

Norah Casey gives the grand tour of dining

and doing on board.

Murano

Our cruise on board Celebrity where the staff were ever attentive and Sushi on Five Restaurant Celebrity Reflection
Reflection was the perfect taste of the knowledgeable about wine. The spa was Dara is a huge sushi fan and got to
Greek Islands, Malta and Italy. Once a lovely interlude (for me) on one of our know the team there who were great Oceanview Café Good to know
we found our ‘cruise legs’ so did we find days at sea where I enjoyed a massage at offering suggestions. The staff were The main buffet area served
our own favourite spaces to hang out. and facial with Viletole, a wonderful also lovely and a testament to the team breakfast, lunch and dinner with 1. Embarkation day is very busy, head to Oceanview Café for lunch as early as possible
The games room was very popular for therapist. One of the nicest parts of at Celebrity, the manager Bogdan, from a chef’s late-night selection served and relax at one of the quieter bars until the muster drill is announced.
an evening game of Monopoly before sitting at the Sunset Bar as the ship Transylvania in Romania has been until 1am and has fresh salads, a
dinner (embarrassingly I was always sailed out from every port was listening with the company for 19 years while mind-blowing choices of breads and 2. We had a classic alcohol drinks package which included all soft drinks and a wide
fleeced by Dara). Because we were off to Welsh-born solo guitarist Charlotte our waiter Loreta from the Philippines pastries and fresh pasta and pizza; range of wine and spirit brands. It was perfect for our needs. Dara doesn’t drink alcohol
the ship at every opportunity I enjoyed {who lives in New Zealand} it was her has been with Celebrity for 21 years. we were off the ship thankfully most except for the odd beer and it allowed me to have the one or two glasses of wine or an
a couple of hours sunbathing when we first stint on board and she divided her Sushi on Five specialises in handmade days otherwise I would be carrying a evening cocktail from a wide selection. On one occasion when I wanted a nicer glass of
got back on board in the late afternoon. time between there and the grand foyer. sushi rolls, fresh nigiri and one of the lot of extra weight on the plane back wine I just paid the difference which was a few euros.
By then, the hardy sun worshipers had highlights is the home-made soya sauce – and I don’t mean in my luggage!
left and I enjoyed some quiet time on R E STAU R A N T S and the wasabi freshly prepared at the Murano Restaurant 3. Staying in touch: we booked two WIFI packages, one device each (but you could use
the upper deck. Our favourite bar was We ate twice at the main Opus dining table (a ceremony in itself). Our final night treat was a superb the same log in at the Macs in the iLounge).
the Mast Bar where barman Bagus room, having also opted to try all the meal at Murano where the quality
was always waiting with a smile and various speciality dining restaurants Le Petit Chef at Qsine of the French influenced dishes 4. We did three shore excursions at the ports where the ship was a distance from the
the perfect sundowner. We threw on board. We really enjoyed the buzz This unique quirky experience saw was matched with the theatre of main town and it worked out well (Messina, Athens, Naples).
ourselves into some of the activities at Opus and the team that served us digital meet dining for an entertaining the serving. We loved this intimate
{the silent disco was brilliant}, and were attentive and chatty and the dining and novel meal. A video performance restaurant with all the attention to 5. The speciality dinners were a real highlight for our nights on board, each very
enjoyed the quiet cool environment of options were superb – fillet mignon and precedes each course on your plate and detail you would expect at a fine different but the food always exceptional. You can book these in advance or wait until
the Cellar Master’s bar before dinner lobster. surrounding table area as the lights dining establishment. you are on board (but options may be limited by then).
are lowered. A little animated chef gets
“The lobster course involved a tug of war between an animated to work preparing your first course, Sushi on Five 6. If you don’t want to pay extra to eat in the specialty restaurants your cruise price
chef and an unwilling lobster - clever and entertaining!” ours was bouillabaisse, hauling various covers dinner every night at Opus {the main dining area) and the extensive buffet at
ingredients for the Provencal fish stew Oceanview Café (open until 1am).
The Celebrity Reflection staff into the virtual dish. As the performance
ends and the lights go up, a perfect 7. Deck 14 has the main pool area with lots of activities and it gets very busy. For a
replica of the dish is presented to you. quieter sun lounger session choose Deck 15 or the Solstice Deck one deck above.
The lobster course involved a tug of war
between our little animated chef and the 8. Ask and you shall receive…we enjoyed a great departure from port sipping
unwilling lobser before it too appeared champagne on the helipad with some of the crew which was a real highlight. I was also
before us. A very clever and entertaining told that if you request a trip to the bridge sometimes they can accommodate that to.
dinner.
9. We only had two days at sea and I enjoyed an early morning massage and facial
Lawn Club Grill which was bliss (book early for the spa).
This is a carnivore’s delight with some
spectacular views from Deck 15 and a 10. There is so much going on it can be hard to keep track of what to do. Go through the
relaxed atmosphere, you can even get Celebrity Today daily newsletter and maybe choose one thing extra each day. The
involved in grilling your own steak. It shows were great fun, but the silent disco was by far my favourite. Spend some time
has a great salad bar from which you exploring the ship on the’ at sea’ days. We were so busy doing daily excursions we had
can help yourself to start with and missed much of the entertainment and still hadn’t wandered through all of the bars
steaks cooked to perfection. (there are 12 on board including the Casino), gift shops, the art gallery, iLounge, library,
and Reflection Theatre, which hosted nightly shows.

11. As always it is the crew that makes the difference. We had the best of advice on
when and which shore excursions to take from Marco Perez the Senior Destination
Manager on board and Deb Fosett the Event Coordinator kept us abreast of the
unmissable experiences on board. Get to know them on day one and they will be
invaluable in terms of advice and information.

The 10 Night Italy and Greek Isles Cruise on Celebrity Reflection can be booked at celebritycruises.com. From 2018 Celebrity also do cruises direct from Dublin Port,
further details of dates, itineraries and prices on the website.