La Dolce Vita

La
Dolce Vita

Norah Casey revisits Rome and discovers a place where you Casina Valadier
can eat, pray and fall in love with the Eternal City’s
wonderful food, enchanting streets and ancient treasures.

Eat HARRY’S BAR RIPA 12
Yes, it’s a cliché and over-priced but it Off the beaten track on a quiet street
There are many wonderful restaurants is a piece of history and offers so much in Trastavere is a wonderful seafood
in Rome and, like most tourist more than expensive cocktails. The restaurant frequented by locals. A
destinations, a fair amount of bad ones. walls tell a story, and the ambience friend who lives in Rome took us
Over the years, I have created a list of and décor recalls the glamorous there for lunch and we had superb
tried and tested favourites, a mix of Rome of the movies. And the people risotto with zucchini and prawns, and
fine dining, local trattorias, authentic watching is unbeatable. This is where wonderfully fresh carpaccio of tuna,
Roman cuisine and places that are old-style Rome and an increasingly sea bass, grouper and salmon.
memorable because of the location or elderly and sophisticated clientele rub ripa12.com
the history. shoulders with the tourists who flock
to this Mecca for after dinner drinks. CAFFÈ DOMIZIANO,
For Coffee & Aperitifs: harrysbar.it PIAZZA NAVONA
I love Piazza Navona and, even though
ANTICO CAFFÈ GRECO For Lunch: the restaurants are over-priced, the
Splash out on coffee and Prosecco at backdrop is stunning, with street
the oldest Caffè in Rome. Just a short TRAT TORIA ALL’ARA performers on hand to entertain. Look
walk from the Spanish steps you will COELI out for Domiziano – arguably the best
find the 250 year old Caffè Greco. This restaurant is near Il Vittoriano, view in Rome. domiziano.it
Beautiful old school décor, formal also known as the Monumento
apron-clad waiters and a treasure Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II, the For Dinner:
trove of antiques. The service was enormous white marble monument
impeccable, the china and glassware that dominates Piazza Venezia. TAVERNA TRILUSSA,
were divine. Expect to pay more for the Recommended by a local, this trattoria TRASTEVERE
experience but you will definitely be is tucked away amid the tourist Taverna Trilussa is a fantastic old
glad you did. anticocaffegreco.eu offerings in this crowded area. Escape family-run restaurant in the heart of
the crowds and enjoy good value Trastevere that recently celebrated
traditional Roman food.

Emma Pizzeria

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chef spices up the classics. The vibe alineailz4mnneaucn5dacosrcdsremtzlceteldzmhedomsaiisbsiannrbsaeelrtieelrvrhleflvrleakasoekal,nrawlnrtbaotnataoerwtadedtwrdthssnoahnaoesnrceotrnclchunalhiahunfivunfvorgwiesrgcivscdhithtihthhenhehwneseesereisf.stobr.sbhscoasaaksfmarsnieleniildtScsid,cahicasisly.
A great value wine list and craft
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CHURCH OF ST MARY
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The beautiful Baroque Church of St
Mary Magdalene in the Piazza della SabinutilPt.eTtherewy hceannhbeewfoasund and uneMnidcihneglraonogmesloif’syogureat
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of architects then modified and added burreenuplMaaediolslstoeorr.serstTneraethrathssehbioet(yinas1oac5sctlfatio1hlaMn5iuucr.)rbraiB,iccseaiuhhtsnsftaowtfdteoluhaollnsesaocdeknoegtkoeMotluohicithshflioaedersinstlaehgnreignehloiso’sf finasfmulhlyalalynsrpaaeiyannnaepddprgitnpewstogtrohfoueMpitnnschldiniemceaeihntbaareegfnugulitatsitlicntc.sfaamrigtptealeuasumylectosilsooo’eoseanminvrsgeaetneictnawonuitigh.vhasoto
to it so that no one really knows who baflsoilwicianigs tboesaeredM. ichaelangelo’s
was responsible for the subsequent great masterpiece. You will find it a
curved façade in the Rococo style bit offS-pPutAtinNg aItSfirHst toSbTe EshPariSng
– the only one in Rome. During the Moses (1515), and look out for the
poTrtHraiEt ofPMAichNaeTlaHngEeloOhiNding in his this mAaggirceaal mt polmaceenttowsitiht asondmwanhyile away an
in the Rococo style – the only one in
Rome. During the neoclassical era floTwhinsg2b,0e0ar0d.year old temple to the godpseoplheobuurtostrasyolobnugt eynoouuwghilltsohare the steps

boasts the largest free-standing domefully awpiptrhetchiartoenitg. smoufsteoivuartisictas.nTi.hvae steps are

in the world until the 20th century not Spanish at all but back in the 18th

and is one of the best pSretsPerevteedrin’ s B a s i l icceantury the Spanish embassy was
We visited the famous Basilica in the early evening and

didn’t have to queue too long, and it was no hardship to do

so while gazing at Bernini’s colonnaded piazza in the

magSicatl ePveenitneg lrig’hst. TBhae rseistliincg aplace of the saint, St

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havePkeistseerd’stihsehtoomeseotfoSat Ptreetearsu– raebtrroonvzeeobfyaArrtnforolfmo dma any of the
Camgbrieo.aTtsh:eMdiocmheel(acnugpeolloa), Mis tahdeehringoh,eBstrainmRaonmtee,aRnadpifhael and
you hBaevrentinhei. Astmamoinga ttohqeumeuaenyanmdacglinmifbic, yeonut wtriellafisnudrethseare

bestMvieicwhienlathnegceiltoy.’s Pietà and I would recommend taking time
to follow in the footsteps of the millions of others who

have kissed the toes of St Peter – a bronze by Arnolfo da

Cambio. The dome (cupola) is the highest in Rome and if

you have the stamina to queue and climb, you will find the

best view in Rome.

nte

Bridge of Love and subsequently in the movie. If

bridge was completed in you have a mind to stroll around in her

oman Emperor Hadrian in footsteps there are lots of guided tours

Lovebanks of the Tiber river wAB RhNIeGDrEGeLESyoOuF can drink coffee where

is mausoASlPgerAeuaNt mpIlaScewHtoiSstitThaEntdPhwSheile away an she did, strollTen beautiful baroque through the piazzas and

angel statues were
me. ecovmemnissivoniesdibtytPhopee place where she lived for
hour or so but you will share the steps
Clement IX in the 17th
with throngs of tourists. The steps are

not Spanish at all but back in the 18th century and

century the Spanish embassy was

L I N E M U S E U M Slocated in the Piazza di Spagna. At the
f art and archaeologicalbottom there is a lovely fountain by
Bernini’s father, Pietro.

uses an amazing
ancientPRaAOnLMdAATmNI NoFEdOHeRIrULnML A N D
through two palazziThe Roman Forum and Palatine Hill
should be top of the list for places to

y the Michelangelo-visit. Located next to each other, this
area was home to some of Rome’s

azza del Campidogliomost important buildings: it was Trevi Fountain
Rome’s political power centre for over
designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini to also houses the famous emblem of
museums were firsta millennium with ruins of palatial
homes on the Palatine Hill. We joined grace the Ponte Sant’Angelo, Bridge of Rome, a bronze Etruscan she-wolf

he publica in 1734 andtour after wandering aimlessly on suckling twins Remus and Romulus.
the first visit. The ruins are impressive en.museicapitolini.org
ini’s famaonduthse statue ofsense of history profound – a while. These are just two such toursAngels. The bridge was completed in
VIII and paintings byevidence of human life dates back to
the 10th century BC. 134 AD by Roman Emperor

TintoretTtoR EaVnIdF TOiUtiNaTnA.I N
s the famous emblemWith more than 2,000 fountains in
Rome you will be spoiled for choice, but a quick searchHadrian in between the
onze Etruscan she-but the Baroque splendour of the Trevi
Fountain is a must, not least because banks of the Tiber river to on googleEwA iTl,l bP RriAnYg, L O V E
TOURS
Rome is a city romanticised
like every tourist in Rome you will want connect his mausoleum

g twins Remus and up lots more. romaround.it/tours/eat-to throw a coin in to appease the gods with the centre of Rome.

.museicapitolini.orgfor a return visit. For many, the Trevi pCrAaPyI-TlOoLvIeN-Erome-Brtidogeuorf ; kissfromitaly.by some great movies
is the world’s most beautiful fountain – Roman Holiday with

with gleaming carrara marble adding to M U S E U M S

com/en/tour/eat-pray-the theatrical scene of Pietro Bracci’s This group of art and
Angels Audrey Hepburn and
Gregory Peck and that

Oceanus. And those thousands of love-rome-tourarchaeological museums great Vespa scene, La
Dolce Vita, Angels and
ethingcoins that get tossed into the glittering houses an amazing
waters help to feed the city’s homeless.
collection of ancient and Demons and many more.

But in more recent times tourists –
particularly women of a certain age
N I G H T T O U R O Fmodern art displayed

through two palazzi
– have been reliving the locations
mentioned in Elizabeth Gilbert’s book
T H E C O L O S S E U Mseparated by the

Michelangelo-designed
Eat, Pray, Love, and subsequently in
the movie. These are just two such
ferent Visit the Colosseum atPiazza del Campidoglio

awaits. The museums
tours but a quick search on google
will bring up lots more. romaround.
Roman Forum night for a totally differentwere first opened to the
and Palatine Hill
public in 1734 and feature
it/tours/eat-pray-love-rome-tour;
kissfromitaly.com/en/tour/eat-pray-
experience when it’s lessBernini’s famous statue

of Pope Urban VIII and
love-rome-tour
crowded and you canpaintings by Caravaggio,

Tintoretto and Titian. It

access the underground level and the

AY, LOV E floor of the arena Small bespoke tours