44 Figure 4.4.3.2 Menerau process – melting the yarns into a rahat and spin by using a pelenting. (2021, Facebook: Kuala Terengganu Songket) 4.4.4 Arranging Patterns (Menganing) The menganing procedure is the starting point from which all other weaving patterns are developed. The pelentings will be arranged in the fashion specified by the client. The threads are drawn in precisely the right number, and in a path that precisely follows the pattern. Loseng refers to the bundled threads that are well aligned. This task requires specialized knowledge and care because it involves a sensitive procedure. Figure 4.4.4.1 The pelenting. (2020, Emytirow Craft) Figure 4.4.4.2 Menganing process – the threads that are lined up together in the pelenting. (2022, Youtube: Tenun Pahang Diraja)
45 Figure 4.4.5.1 Menyusuk process – shown how to insert the thread between the machine’s teeth. (2021, Youtube: Cara menenun) 4.4.5 Inserting the Thread into the Steel Teeth (Menyusuk or Menyampuk) By using an awl or hook to insert the thread between the machine's teeth. Two threads for single machine teeth. The thread will then be attached to the pesa. In this process, assistance is required. Pushing the thread into the machine's teeth in preparation for winding it onto the winding board. When this procedure is complete, the thread is attached to the carapace and placed on the cake to be weaved till completion. 4.4.6 Rolling the Warp Threads (Menggulung) After the threads have been menyusuk, they are wound and stretched to a maximum length of around 20 metres using a rolling wood. The final step involves placing the karat (heddle eye) on the kek and threading it through (handloom). Figure 4.4.6.1 Menggulung process – shown how to stretching the threads by using rolling mechasnim. (2021, Youtube: Tenun Pahang Diraja)
46 Figure 4.4.7.1 Menghubung process – The weaver needs to connect 4000 pieces of thread by hand manually. (2021, Youtube: Tenun Pahang Diraja) 4.4.7 Connecting Warp Yarns (Menghubung) The new warp yarns are attached to the karap or heddle eye and placed in the handloom or ‘kek’ as it’s known in malay. The thread must be attached one by one so if there are 4000 threads are used, the weaver must link them all by hand. It may take 2–3 days to finish this procedure. 4.4.8 Stringing the Heddles (Mengarat) After the interrupting is done, the marching work is finished. The first step of the procedure is to insert the lozenge thread into the cracks in the rust by pushing the lozenge alternately through the gaps in the lozenge thread. The warp threads are layered and then separated into an upper and lower portion. Usually, only two carats are used, and each carat has four sticks Figure 4.4.8.1 Mengarat process – The weaver checked the thread to remove any entanglements. (2021, Youtube: Tenun Pahang Diraja)
47 Figure 4.4.9.1 Mengarat process – The weaver checked the thread to remove any entanglements. (2021, Kolej Komuniti Temerloh) 4.4.9 Weaving (Menenun) To begin weaving, step on the treadle at the base of the cake to move the thread to a new location on the lozenge. Once it is done, the side piston can be moved by pushing on the pulling stick. Weft thread alternation is made possible by the left-to-right motion of the piston. Different colored bobbin threads can be crossed in this torak thanks to the weft. After that, the thread braid is packed by tapping the tapping board. Until the fabric is complete, this procedure must be repeated. Whether a cloth features embroidered details, geometric designs, or floral patterns is entirely up to the discretion of the weaver and the preferences of the buyer. 4.4.10 Polishing (Menggerus) To give the completed Tenun the sheen or shine it deserves, a master of menggerus (polishing) will add his finishing touches. The cowrie shell serves as a vehicle for the beeswax or resin, which enhances the luster. Figure 4.4.10.1 Mengerus process – The picture shown how to polished the Tenun Pahang Diraja fabric (2021, Youtube: Tenun Pahang Diraja)
48 4.5 TYPE/MOTIF Tenun Pahang Diraja textile is decorated with elaborate themes and patterns. Depending on the setting, various textile designs and patterns may transmit significant signals about the wearer's social standing, cultural heritage, and religious practises through the symbols they include. The exquisiteness of a Tenun Pahang Diraja fabric, for instance, cannot be separated from its unique design. This Tenun Pahang Diraja has a variety of patterns, hues, and styles. Interlacing weft threads and multicoloured lozenges create the pattern of Tenun Pahang Diraja. Gold thread is utilised as a clamp between the striped or line motifs to highlight its appeal further. According to their orientation, woven sarongs with patterns are categorised as horizontal, longitudinal, leaf, Rawa, Bugis, and Muar. A Tenun Pahang Diraja typically has relatively simple decoration on its surface. The decoration is not very complex, consisting mostly of designs that are repeated and a few motifs that have gold thread woven into the design here and there. The Muar design is renowned for using pastel squares in a geometric pattern. A weaver can only create this Tenun Pahang Diraja with remarkable vision, perseverance, and precision. There is also the usage of gold thread, which creates the form of fine line patterns or the appearance of little flower dots, which are scattered to embellish this woven fabric's space and colourful fields. A Tenun Pahang Diraja cloth employs the "tied and dyed" process. The pattern and embellishment of Tenun Pahang Diraja fabric have their unique individuality. Traditional patterns of the Tenun Pahang Diraja fabric include horizontal stripes, baby bees, standing stripes, and shrimp pins. Tenun Pahang Diraja fabric with a modern pattern design is also a decorative option, however it retains the origins of more traditional patterns like the split bamboo pattern, the sideways pattern, and the checkerboard pattern. Royal Pahang Weaving fabric designs, such as Tun Razak Pattern, Tok Muda Pattern, Tegku Ampuan Pattern, Mayor Pattern, and Orang Kenamaan, are also selected in consultation with the wearer. The designs on the Royal Pahang Woven cloth have been artistically designed and variedly handled. Figure 4.5.1 Motif Tenun Pahang
49 4.6 CONCLUSION This pahang weaving art should be maintained and practiced. especially young people. if this textile art is not continued, it is not impossible that it will disappear just like that, over time this traditional art will disappear
REFERENCES
50 Azzah Aziz.(2006), Rupa & Gaya Busana Melayu.Bangi:PENERBIT UNIVERSITI KEBANGSAAN MALAYSIA Norwani Md. Nawawi.(2016), Ikat Limar The Ancient Malay Textile.Kuala Lumpur:Dewan Bahasa Pustaka ValerieOlla.(2021), Ikat, knot by knot.April 2, 2021,from https://www.ockpoptok.com/blog/weaving-techniques-ikat-knot-by-knot/ Charley Bradley Ross.(2015),All you need to know about Ikat Weaving, August 28, 2015,from.https://www.the-sustainable-fashioncollective.com/2015/08/28/need-know-ikat-weaving Sabri Mohd. Zin, 1999. Long Yunus, Putera lstana Berhati Waja. Kuala Lumpur: Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. E.K. Fisk, 1959. "Survey on the Kelantan and Terengganu Handloom Industry" in Journal Malaysian Branch. Royal Asiatic Society XXXll:4, 1959. Get a closer look at Malay limar textiles in our virtual museum at: http://bit.ly/2GzMiAc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRi5sCkwpgY Visit all of our virtual textile art exhibitions at: https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=QRi5sCkwpgY Perbadanan Kemajuan Kraftangan Malaysia (PKKM), A Malaysian Touch, Textile for the new Millennium. Kuala Lumpur 1999. p. 98. Muzium Textile Negara http://www.kraftangan.gov.my siti zuraida bt maaruf - Syamsul Nor Azlan Bin Mohamad ( 2014) Responsive Budaya PedagogiKraf Traditional Pendidikan Seni Visual Modul 2 Seni Tekat, Siti Zuraida bt Maaruf , Fakulti Pendidikan Universiti Teknologi Mara. Interview Puan Mardziah Binti Abu Kassin - pengusaha dan pakar tekat, NO E 18, Kedai Mini MPKK, Jalan Nakhoda,33000, Kuala Kangsar, Perak Darul Ridzuan. Mohd Rafi Yaacob, Nur Faizah Mat Zain (2018). Batik Industry in Malaysia At The Crossroad. UMK Press, Universiti Malaysia Kelantan. Jadi Batek, https://jadibatek. My Batik Kuala Lumpur, https://mybatik.org.my/batik/batikhistory/malaysiabatik/ A Colorful History of Batik, https://www.wonderfulmalaysia.com/faq/a-colorfulhistory-of-batik.htm Interview Pn Siti Hajjar Bt Mohamad dan En Faizu Bin Sidik – Perusahan Batik, Lot 1927 Kampung Che Deris Jalan PCB 15350Kota Bharu Kelantan BAHAGIAN PEMULIHARAAN. (2010). Tenun Pahang Diraja. Kuala Lumpur: Perbadanan Kemajuan Kraftangan Malaysia 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
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