In Search of Dambadiva

Sunil PremaratnaIn search of Dambadiva -2018 0

PREFACE

In recent times, there has been a steady increase in the number of
Buddhist pilgrims all over the world who are interested in visiting
sacred places and shrines in India. The interest of the Sri Lankan
Buddhists has also increased. It is a dream of elderly people in Sri
Lanka who have faith in Buddhism to visit Dambadiva at least once in
their life time. Areas where Gautama Buddha lived and preached
Dhamma, and the main sites connected to his life are now important
places of pilgrimage for Buddhists all over the world.

Buddhism offers four major sites of pilgrimage: Lumbini, the
birthplace of the Buddha, is now in southern Nepal. The site where he
attained Enlightenment Bodh Gaya is in Bihar. Sarnath, outside
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, the site of the first sermon and where
Buddha taught the four noble truths about life and death. Kushinagar, in Uttar Pradesh is the site of the
Buddha's parinirvana (end of rebirth) and home of many famous meditation sites in India.

The forty-five year mission of the Lord Buddha was commenced in Isiapathana, Migadaya in Saranath and
established the Sangha, or the community of Buddhist monks to propagate Dahmma throughout the
world.

There have been countless books and records written about India and Buddhist places of worship in various
countries throughout history. Nowadays more information could be gathered about these places through
the Internet. However, experience gain by ourselves has more value than the information collected from
various sources. Seeing is believing.

Because of the reputation for maintaining standards and flexibility shown towards the needs of the
customers, I selected Aitken Spence Travels to achieve my objective for a comfortable journey arranged to
be completed within a short period of time. It was eight days seven nights package. We communicated
with other friends who were also interested to go with us on this pilgrimage and managed to make a group
of 20. Our son who is in Australia also joined us with the intention of helping us.

We were extremely delighted that the pilgrimage was successfully completed without any complaint. My
impression was that I had taken a right decision for selecting Aitken Spence Travels. Special thanks to Mr.
Janath Muhandiramge for making us comfortable.

I thought of keeping my exploration of this journey on record as “In search of Dambadiva “. I hope this
experience will be of great benefit to all Sri Lankan Buddhist pilgrims visiting Dambadiva to see the ruins
of historical cities, Buddhist monasteries and sacred places of Lord Buddha.

May Triple Gem bless us all !!!.

Sunil Premaratna Premaratna1951@gmail.com

In search of Dambadiva -2018 1

IN SEARCH OF DAMBADIVA

In religion and spirituality, a pilgrimage is a long journey or search of great moral
significance. Sometimes, it is a journey to a sacred place or to a shrine of importance
to a person's beliefs and faith. Members of every major religion participate in
pilgrimages. A person who makes such a journey is called a pilgrim. Last year I
became a pilgrim to witness the number of historical Buddhist pilgrim sites in India
together with my wife and son with the intention of making our lifetime dream
come true by completing one of the religious activities of visiting Dambadiva.

The most important places of Buddhism are many famous meditation sites in India.

located in the Indo-Gangetic plains of Northern We started our journey from Katunayake
India and Southern Nepal, in the area between International Airport on 23rd September 2018
New Delhi and Rajgir. This is the area where and flew to Varanasi by Indian Flight. Our group
Gautama Buddha lived and preached Dhamma, consisted of 20 pilgrims including our team
and the main sites connected to his life are now leader Mr.Janath Muhandiramge who organized
important places of pilgrimage for Buddhists all the tour for Aitken Spence Travels. He is a
over the world. However, many countries that pleasing character and handled the tour with
are or were predominantly Buddhist have utmost care and responsible manner. He briefed
shrines and places which can be visited as a us about the tour at the airport.
pilgrimage.

Buddhism offers four major sites of pilgrimage: We arrived at Varanasi Lal Bahadur International
Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, is now in Airport where we were welcomed by the Indian
southern Nepal. The site where he attained tour guide putting garlands made out of fresh
Enlightenment Bodh Gaya is in Bihar, top site in yellow flowers on each of us in the bus which
the list of world heritage sites in India. Sarnath, was arranged for our journey. We felt that we
outside Varanasi,
Uttar Pradesh, the were honoured as
site of the first special guests. We
sermon and where checked-in at a three
Buddha taught the star hotel after
four noble truths enjoying our lunch
about life and death. specially prepared for
Kushinagar, in Uttar us. Our pilgrimage
Pradesh the site of was organized for 8
the Buddha's days 7 nights to visit
parinirvana (end of the most important
rebirth) and home of places of Lord
Buddha’s life.

Map of the Pilgrimage

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Welcome in the bus In the bus from the Airport to the Hotel

Hotel at Saranath 1st day occupation

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SARANATH

Saranath a place located 10 kilometers north-east of
Varanasi near the confluence of the Ganges and the
Varuna rivers in Uttar Pradesh. Buddhism flourished in
Sarnath in part because of the support of kings and
wealthy merchants based in nearby Varanasi. By the 3rd
century, Sarnath had become an important center for the
arts, which reached its zenith during the Gupta period
(4th-6th century AD). When Hsuan Tsang visited from
China in the 7th century, he found 30 monasteries and
3000 monks living at Sarnath. After enlightenment in
Bodhgaya, the Buddha went to Sarnath seeking his five
former companions. He found them, taught them what he
had learned, and they also became enlightened. This
event is referred to as "the turning of the wheel of the Dharma" and also marks the
founding of the Sangha, or the community of Buddhist monks.

Buddha's first discourse, delivered here at Sarnath, is known in Pali as the
Dhammacakkhapavathana Sutta. Other Suttas include the Anattalakhana Sutta
and the Saccavibhanga Sutta. The Buddha's central teaching after his
enlightenment centered on the Four Noble Truths (concerning the meaning of life)
and the Noble Eightfold Path (concerning the right way to live).

All of the ancient buildings and structures at Sarnath were damaged or destroyed
by the Turkish Muslims. However, amongst the ruins the Dhammika Stupa is
impressive at 128 feet high, and 93 in diameter. This dates from around 200 BC and
is the spot where the Buddha is said to have preached his first sermon.

Same day after lunch, we had a little relaxation abandoned him in Rajgir while they deviated
and proceeded to Saranath a place located 10
kilometers north-east of Varanasi near the from the viewpoint of Lord Buddha on self-
confluence of the Ganges and the Varuna rivers
in Uttar Pradesh. Lord Buddha had visited mortification. Sammuka Chaiththiya
Sarnath after he attained enlightenment at
Bodhgaya looking for his five companions who (Chaukhandi Stupa) was built to mark the place

where Lord Buddha met his first disciples as he

journeyed from Bodh Gaya to Sarnath. Today,

the Sammuka stupa stands neatly in lush green

In search of Dambadiva -2018 4

Sarnath. We were also fortunate enough to
listen to a valuable Dhamma sermon preached
by him in front of Dhammika sthupa at the same
place said to be where Lord Buddha preached his
first sermon. The Dhammika Stupa is the most
remarkable and massive structure at Sarnath.

Site plan of Saranath Excavations Description of Saranath

lawns, well maintained by the Archaeological In the 3rd century BC, Emperor Ashoka erected
Survey of India. Draped in the calmness and magnificent stupas and monasteries in this area,
mystery of history, the Sammuka Stupa forms a as well as an engraved pillar. When Chinese
gateway to the Buddhist city of Sarnath. Here in traveler Xuan Zang dropped by in AD 640,
the Deer Park called Isipathana Migadaya, he Sarnath boasted a 100m-high stupa and 1500
delivered his first sermon, set in motion the monks living in large monasteries. However,
Wheel of Law (Maha-Dhammachakka soon after, Buddhism went into decline, and
Pravartana Suthra), in which he taught the four when Muslim invaders destroyed the city in the
noble truths and the teachings associated with it. late 12th century, Sarnath disappeared
The deer park in Sarnath is where Gautama altogether. It was only ‘rediscovered’ by British
Buddha first delivered his first sermon of archaeologists in 1835.
Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came
into existence through the enlightenment of We enjoyed feeding deer at the deer park and
Kondagnna. walked around the places of historical value and
proceeded to the museum. Sarnath museum has
Meeting with Ven.Yudaganave Seelavangsa thro yielded a rich collection of sculptures, artifacts
and edifices comprising numerous Buddha and
We met Yudaganawe Sheelavanse Thero a Sri Bodhisattva images and other ancient remains.
Lankan monk living in Saranath and he made us
knowledgeable on all the important places Of other Buddhist remains there is an impressive
there. We were accompanied by him walking and amazingly beautiful, life-size standing
through the ruins of the ancient Buddhist Bodhisattva and a delicate image of the
monasteries, temples, and stupas and we were Bodhisattva with a lotus and yet another bronze
able to listen to narratives of the history of sculpture showing the Bodhisattva with multiple
arms. The museum at Sarnath also houses an
In search of Dambadiva -2018 excellent collection of figures and sculptures
from the Mauryan, the Kushana and the Gupta
periods. Prominent of them is the earliest

5

Buddha image found at Sarnath and many maintained by monks from Sri Lanka, Tibet,
images of Hindu Gods dating from the 9th to China and Japan but the main Buddhist temple is
12th centuries. the Mulagandhakuti Vihar. The main shrine
(vihara), called the Mulagandakuti, is said to be
The main attraction of the Sarnath located at the place where Buddha used to stay
Archaeological Museum is the superb Ashokan during his visits to Sarnath. Among the most
Pillar. It has four back-to-back lions, which has important one of the temples restored by
been adopted as the National symbol of India. Anagarika Dharmapala was the Mulagandha kuti
Below this are representations of a lion, an at Sarnath in 1931. After observing all important
elephant, horse and the bull. places at Saranath, the holy city of Varanasi the
blessed city where more than 2600 years ago
There are a number of twentieth century Buddha selected to deliver his first sermon, we
Buddhist temples in Sarnath. Many of these came back to the hotel for dinner and
Buddhist temples at Sarnath are built and comfortably stayed overnight there.

At the entrance to the Saranath site

Listening to historical incidences

In front of the Sammuka Chaithya Walking through the ruins

Ruins of a temple Saranath Archeological museum Listening to the historical incidences

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Mulagandhakuti Vihara

In front of the Dhammika Stupa On the ruins

Making us knowledgeable Deer park Migadaya

Resting under the shadow of Top part of Ashokan
Dhammica Stupa pillar in the Museum

Scenic view of Dhammika Stupa

Scene inside the Archeological museum 7

In search of Dambadiva -2018

BOAT RIDE ON THE RIVER GANGES

The religious importance of the Ganges may exceed that of any other river in the
world. It has been revered from the earliest times and today is regarded as the
holiest of rivers by Hindus. While places of Hindu pilgrimage, called tirthas, are
located throughout the subcontinent, those that are situated on the Ganges have
particular significance. Among those are the confluence of the Ganges and the
Yamuna near Allahabad, where a bathing festival, or mela, is held in January and
February; during the ceremony hundreds of thousands of pilgrims immerse
themselves in the river. Other one of the holy places for immersion is at Varanasi.
The Hindus cast the ashes of their dead into the river, believing that this gives the
deceased direct passage to heaven, and cremation ghats (temples at the summit of
riverside steps) for burning the dead have been built in many places on the banks of
the Ganges.

After a wakeup call early in the morning, we got eastward directions and empties into the Bay of
into the bus and reached through crowded Bengal.
narrow roads to the bank of river Ganges. The
boat was waiting for us and we all got on to the The Ganges is a sacred river to Hindus along
boat walking through muddy, slippery and every fragment of its length. All along its course,
crowded river bank for a serene boat ride along Hindus bathe in its waters, paying homage to
the River Ganges the sacred river of India. their ancestors and to their Gods by cupping the
water in their hands, lifting it and letting it fall
Ganga originates from the Gangotri Glacier, back into the river; they offer flowers and rose
which is located in the western Himalayas. It is petals and float shallow clay dishes filled with oil
one of the major rivers of India, which is and lit with wicks. On the journey back home
approximately 1557 miles long. It flows into the from the Ganges, they carry small quantities of
river water with them for use in rituals (Ganga

In search of Dambadiva -2018 8

jal, literally water of the Ganges). Varanasi— wash away sins in the sacred waters, to cremate
attract millions of pilgrims to its waters to take a their loved ones, or simply to die here, hoping for
dip in the Ganges, which is believed to cleanse liberation from the cycle of rebirth.
oneself of sins and help attain salvation.
Even though the width of the river there runs for Most visitors agree Varanasi is magical – but not
two three kilometers and depth is not visible, we for the faint-hearted. Intimate rituals of life and
felt safe on the boat. We were attracted to the death take place in public, and the sights, sounds
glamour of the dawning of the Sun in red colour and smells of the mazelike old town – not to
which made a beautiful scenery on the river mention almost constant attention from touts –
Ganga. Devotees come to the river to pay can be intense. Still, the so-called City of Light is
homage call “Soorya Namaskar” to the rising one of the most colourful and fascinating places
sun. The Indian Guide explained that the Ganga on earth. Strolling the ghats or watching sunrise
Ghats (river fronts) with different names are the from a boat on the Ganges are a highlight, and
most popular pilgrimage spots of Varanasi. There confronting the reality and ritual of death can be
are more than 100 Ghats alongside Ganga in a powerful experience. The Indian guide explain
Varanasi. to us that from the ancient time Varanasi is
In Hinduism, it is believed that those who die and known as “The oldest living city on earth”, “The
are cremated here get an instant gateway to holy city of India”, the spiritual capital of India”,
liberation from the cycle of births and re-births. “The city of light”, “The city of learning” and “The
We saw the smoke of burning death bodies at city of temples” However, we feel that it is more
Harishchandra Ghat, one of a cremation ghats than that. Since time immemorial Varanasi is a
and one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi. great center of learning. The holy city has been a
This is one of the world's oldest continually symbol of spiritualism, philosophy and mysticism
inhabited cities, and one of the holiest in for thousands of years and has produced great
Hinduism. Pilgrims come to the Ganges here to saints and personalities like Guatama Buddha,
Mahavira, Kabir, Tulsi Das, Shankaracharaya,
Boat ride on the River Ganges Ramanuja and Patanjali.

After the fascinated boat ride on the river
Ganges, we returned to the hotel for breakfast
and got ready to move to the next destination
towards Bihar State for Bodhgaya. The Indian
tour guide a retired person from the Indian
Government service entertained us with singing
old Hindi songs to keep us awake. Since it was
during the day time we had the opportunity to
see the surrounding villages with vegetation. We
enjoyed having shared time to time, some snacks
brought from Sri Lanka.

In search of Dambadiva -2018 9

Walking through the crowded slippery river bank to Ready to go
the boat

Yoga practice

Chanting for soorya namaskar Holy bath

Cremations are taken place round the clock Scene on the river bank

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BODH GAYA

Bodh Gaya is a religious site and place of
pilgrimage associated with the Mahabodhi
Temple Complex in Gaya district in the
Indian state of Bihar. "Bodh Gaya is the
place where Gautama Buddha attained
unsurpassed, supreme Enlightenment. It is a
place which should be visited or seen by a
person of devotion and which would cause
awareness and apprehension of the nature
of impermanence". Enriched by devotion of Buddhists of all traditions, this holy site
is emerging as a powerful inspiration to the modern world, awakening people of all
nations to the real possibility of enlightenment. About 250 years after the
Enlightenment, the Buddhist Emperor, Ashoka visited the site and is considered the
founder of the Mahabodhi Temple. According to the tradition, Ashoka, as well as
establishing a monastery, erected a diamond throne shrine at this spot with a
canopy supported by four pillars over a stone representation of the Vajrasana, the
Seat of Enlightenment. Inside the temple there is a colossal image of the Buddha in
the Bhumisparsha mudra, "touching the ground pose". This image is said to be more
than 1700 years old and is facing east exactly at the place where the Buddha
enlightened in meditation with his back to the Bodhi tree. On the back of the main
temple, there is an ancient pipal tree (Ficus religiosa) or Bodhi tree situated to the
west. It was under this tree that Gautama sat for enlightenment. The present tree
is considered only as the descendant of the original tree.

We checked-in at a hotel which was located at at the hotel and stayed overnight there thinking
walking distance to Bodhgaya Temple. In the of the most important pilgrim activity next day.
evening we visited Mahabodhi temple just to
worship and on the way back we were allowed Everybody in our group had brought ingredients
to go on shopping in the Gaya town and all were to prepare milkrice to offer as a symbol of
busy buying things to be taken home. offering to Lord Buddha. All what were needed
Comparatively prices were cheaper. Most of us to prepare milk rice collected and given to the
continued shopping until the shops were closed chef of the hotel to cook the rice which had to be
one by one at about 9.30 p.m. We had our dinner ready at about 5.00 a.m. in the morning. Janath
took care of arranging all the needful for us to

In search of Dambadiva -2018 11

visit Bodhgaya. Early in the morning next day, all the members observed Sil and listened to a
of us dressed with white cloths and walked along Dhamma sermon preached by a Sri Lankan
the road to Bodhgaya temple carrying offerings Monk. We had enough time to roam around and
to the Lord Buddha. to observe the important places there.
Mahabodhi Temple is in the center of the town
and maintains a strict level of security. Mobile
phones are not permitted within the temple
premises and visitors are expected to leave them
either in their rooms or at the lockers at the
entrance gate. Those who would like to carry
their cameras into the premises can only do so
for a payment of Rs 100.

Offering of Milk Rice (Pooja) taken to Budh Gaya Temple Bodh Gaya Temple
collectively
Mahabodhi Temple Complex at Bodh Gaya is a
The temple stands in the East to the Bodhi tree. pertinent pilgrimage site for the Buddhists and
Its architectural effect is superb. From its for all the followers of Gautam Buddha. The
basement it rises in the form of slender Pyramid significant events that occurred in 531 BC was
till it reaches its neck, which is cylindrical in Sidhdhartha Gouthama attained the perfect
shape. On the top of the temple are Chakras state of enlightenment while being seated in
which symbolize sovereignty of religion. This meditation under a Bodhi tree at the site of
sacred edifice is like a grand banner unfurled by Mahabodhi Temple Complex. 260 BC – Emperor
time to proclaim to the world the pious efforts of Asoka visited the site of Bodhi tree to worship it,
the Lord Buddha to solve the knot of human and made the first temple for honouring
miseries, to ascend above worldly problems and Gautama Buddha. Later, it was renovated and
attain transcendental peace through wisdom, expanded by the kings of the Gupta dynasty.
good conduct and disciplined life. Inside the Vajrasana is the place where Siddhartha
temple, in the main sanctum, there is a colossal
image of the Buddha in sitting posture touching
the earth by his right hand. In this posture the
Buddha attained the supreme enlightenment.
The temple is an architectural amalgamation of
many centuries, cultures and heritages. While its
architecture has a distinct stamp of the Guptha
era, it has later ages inscriptions describing visits
of pilgrims from Sri Lanka, Myanmar and China
between 7th and 10th century AD. It is perhaps
still the same temple Hieuen Tsang visited in 7th
century, our tour guide explained to us.

Collectively, we offered the puja to Lord Buddha
and arrangements had been made for our group
to observe Sil at the temple premises. Most of

In search of Dambadiva -2018 12

meditated under the Bo tree and attained the here, reflecting on Pattana or the Law of
Buddhahood. Buddha toiled throughout his life Dependent Origination. According to legend, it is
to spiritually uplift as many people as he could. here that colours were emitted out of Buddha’s
The Mahabodhi temple was declared a UNESCO body—which now find themselves in Buddhist
World Heritage Site in 2002. flags.
During his fifth week, the Buddha was
After attaining enlightenment, Gautama Buddha meditating under Ajapala Nuga Tree and
spent a span of seven weeks across various answered the questions posed by the Brahmins.
locations where the Mahabodhi Temple stands
today. The Lotus pond where Lord Buddha spent the 6th week

The Bodhi Tree is the most illustrious site The sixth week was spent by Gautam Buddha at
situated to the west of the main temple is the Lotus pond situated outside the enclosure to
believed to the direct descendant of the Bodhi the south of the temple complex. It is believed
Tree underneath which the Buddha stayed for that Buddha was protected from the
the first week after attaining enlightenment. thunderstorm by the king of snakes Muchalinda
covering his body during this period.
Buddha spent his second week at the prayer hall, Buddha was under the Rajayathana tree during
also known as Animeshlochan Chaitya. It can be his seventh week of meditation. A tree has been
found towards the north of the central path on a planted to mark this site. It is located towards
raised platform. the south-east of the temple.
We had ample time to visit all over the place
The jewelled ambulatory is also called Ruwan leisurely and collected a number of Bo leaves
Sakmana. It is famous for being the site where fallen from the sacred Bo tree with the intention
the Buddha spent the third week of his internal of gifting them to loved ones and friends in Sri
journey of meditation walking eighteen steps Lanka. Then we went back to the hotel for lunch
back and forward. It is located near the north and proceeded to see the other important sites
wall of the main temple and stands elevated on nearby about 15 Kms away from the hotel.
a stone platform. The lotuses in this walkthrough Pragbodhi Mountain is situated near Gaya
are believed to be the places where Buddha had district in the state of Bihar. The name Pragbodhi
stepped. literally means 'Prior to Enlightenment'. Today,
the mountain has been renamed as
Ruwan Sakmana, where Buddha spent the 3rd week Dhungeswara. As per the legends, Prince

Located towards the north-east near the
enclosure, Ratnaghara Chaitya is the place
where the Buddha spent his fourth week.
Buddha spent his fourth week of meditation

In search of Dambadiva -2018 13

Siddhartha before he received enlightenment depending only on offerings by the pilgrims
had spent six years in rigorous practice of visiting there.
asceticism in a small cave half way up this On the way back from Sujatha temple, we were
mountain. able to see the ruins of the Sujatha Kuti, place of
residence of Sujatha. The stupa built during
The “Uruvel” Valley which is slightly east of Gupta period and excavated during 1973-78 &
Bodhgaya in Bakhrour (Ancient name “Senani”) 2003-2008. Excellent brick work. Our tour guide
has become sacred and is extremely significant pointed out a white colour building across the
place for faithful Buddhists just because of the Neranjana River and said that it was the
great alms-giving to Sidhartha Gauthama before residence of Mahantha, a Hindu wealthy man
he attained the great enlightenment. The that Anagarika Dharmapala fought against with
maiden called “Sujata” a daughter of a rich baron claiming the Buddhist’s rights of the Budhagaya
had offered milk and rice to Sidhartha Gauthama temple. Anagarika Dharmapala who underwent
who had been meditating without any meal and extensive hardship during that time had won the
became skeleton. Sujatha had told him that he case acquiring the legal rights of Buddhists for
could not find truth and the way without a living Bodhgaya.
body to experience that. A truth that imparted
the wisdom that guided the Buddha to realize his Great Lord Buddha statue in Bodh Gaya
goal. Such a simple story, but with such profound
wisdom and meaning. There he had realized We saw on the way at a distance the great
that extreme asceticism was not the correct way Buddha statue one of the major tourist
to achieve enlightenment. After few days, he attraction in Bodhgaya. 80 feet high statue of
attained the great enlightenment under the Lord Buddha is really impressive. The statue was
bodhi tree at the main temple, bodhgaya. built by Japanese Buddhists and unveiled by His
Buddhists who come from countries such as Sri holiness Dalai Lama in 1989, just two months
Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, and China before my son’s birth day. It is made of red
visit Bodhgaya and the place where Sidhartha granite and sandstone and it is said that it took
Gauthama selected the middle path the path of almost seven years to be completed. Royal
practice that avoids two extremes of sensual Bhutanese Monastery, and Tibetan Monastery
indulgence on the one hand, and severe also observed without getting out of the bus. We
asceticism on the other. returned to the hotel, had our dinner and
relaxed overnight there.
A small temple is built there to remark that
historical incident. As we reached the place, we
were surrounded by the people in the village
who are suffering from absolute poverty and
struggled for some money and food. Our Indian
Tour guide requested us not to give them
anything as you would never be able to end of
giving. However, we were able to manage the
situation by offering them some food items such
as biscuits, cake etc. Some gave money feeling
sympathy on them. They spoke some Sinhala
words. We were informed that whole village was

In search of Dambadiva -2018 14

Buddha pooja towards Budh Gaya temple

At the Sujatha temple

Sujatha offers Milk Rice to Sidhartha Gauthama Group of pilgims resting on Neranjana river bank

Mr.Singh entertains with old Hindi hits Village scene captured while travelling
Sujatha Kuti
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15

RAJGIRI (Ancient Rajagaha Nuwara)

Rajgir is located in Bihar state about 70 Km from Budhgaya. Being located in a vally
Rajgir is a very scenic place and the small hill grit town is covered with lush green
forest adds natural beauty to it. Rajgir remained the capital of Magadha Empire till
the 5th century BC when Ajashatta made Pataliputra the capital of his kingdom.
Rajgrhi means the home of Royalty. It was here that Gautama Buddha spent several
months meditating, and preaching at Gridjja-kuta, ('Hill of the Vultures'). He also
delivered some of his famous sermons and king Bimbisara of Magadha and
countless others became followers of Buddha. It was here that Budhha delivered
his famous Atanatiya Sutra. Another major attraction is the peace pagoda, Vishwa
Shanti Stupa, built in 1969, one of the 80 peace pagodas in the world, to spread the
message of peace and non-violence. It is the oldest peace pagoda in India. The rope-
way that leads to it is another attraction, which was gifted by Japanese spiritual
leader Fuji Guruji in the 1960s. On one of the hills is the Saptaparni Cave where the
First Buddhist Council was held under the leadership of Maha Kassapa.

Next day after breakfast, we were heading Buddha and it was on this hill that he preached
towards Rajgir (Ancient Rajagaha Nuwara) about two of his most famous sermons.
75 Kms, from Bodhgaya. Rajgir has got the name
from Raj Griha meaning the abode of the king. Vishwa Shanthi –World Peace -Stupa was built
The city was the capital of the mighty Magadha by Japanese monk atop Ratnagiri hill near Rajgiri.
Empire during the period of Lord Buddha's One can reach it either by trekking or by the
lifetime. Rajgir is one of the most important cable in the hanging chair (Areal Ropeway). It
tourist places in India. Rajgir has its own very cannot be named as cable car. Either way is risky
scenic beauty surrounded by five holy hills, the for the very young and the very old and those
picturesque little town of Rajgir is important for with walking disabilities and heart ailments. We
Buddhists as well as Jains. Here the two rock-cut all decided to go by cable chair except two
caves Gijjakuta were the favourite retreats of the

In search of Dambadiva -2018 16

Areal Ropeway associated with Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism
attract pilgrims from all over the world. We
members of our group who paid no interest to spent little time on the top of the hill observing
climb up. They remained at the entrance until we the historical sites over there. The weather was
come back. The cable chairs were the most favorable for us as in Sri Lanka. We all had hats
thrilling part of the journey, but you need to be and caps to cover from the sunny condition.
a bit acrobatic as the chairs do not stop and you Drinking water bottles were supplied without
need to board while it is running. However, it restrictions throughout the journey. The view
moves slowly so it should not be an issue. We when you descend is mind blowing. We all
managed my wife who is very sensitive person climbed down through the narrow pathway for
also to get in to a chair in between my son in which safety precautions have not been taken by
front and myself in behind chairs, to make her the authorities. All of a sudden, one elderly lady
satisfied. Getting into the chair and getting out in our group slipped and rolled down to the slope
of it seemed unsafe even for normal persons. making injuries to her forehead and scratches on
Even after alighting from the chair, a seemingly her legs. Luckily she leaned against a bush and
dangerous journey by a cable chair in which only ceased further rolling down. With the assistance
one person can sit and with an unsafe locking of others we could managed to bring her back to
system. It was a 10-15 minutes ride with silence the roadway and treated with first aids and
to the top of the hill. It is said that this cable plastered the bleeding wounds by Janath who
system was built by Japanese to transport carried a first aid kit with him. Janath took care
building materials to the top for the construction of her to climb down the hill and put her into the
of the Peace Stupa. However, the view from the bus.
top of the peak, a panoramic 360 degrees view
of the villages supposedly travelled by Lord Ananda Kuti at Gijjakoota hill
Buddha is worth all the trouble.
Half way down the hill, there was another
The stupa is beautifully constructed with idols of direction to go to gijjakuta rock where Lord
Lord Buddha all around. Buddha spent many Buddha often retreated for meditation and
years in Rajgir and also delivered sermons there. delivered many of his sermons. The Mauryan
Rajgir is equally important for the Jain as well as king Bimbisara became one of the Buddha’s
Hindu pilgrims. Lord Mahavira (the founder of most devoted followers at the gijjakuta rock. We
Jainism) resided here for some time and also the observed the Ananda Kuti (cave), Sariputtha Kuti
place finds its reference in Hindu epic - and other historical places there and enjoyed
Mahabharata. The historic sites of Rajgir impressive sceneries visible from the top. The
monkeys appear domesticated and quite
In search of Dambadiva -2018 harmless, waiting for food and drinks to be fed.

17

But sometimes your eatables appear on the sermons every morning. There was nothing to
trees in the hands of monkeys without your see but the ruins of the stone foundation.
knowledge. We saw the place where
Devadaththa rolled down a rock to harm the Then we got out from the bus to see the cave
Buddha on his way to gijjakuta hill. (Sona Bhandar cave) situated on the southern
slopes of hills. Legends say that the treasure of
On either side of the route were small souvenir Bimbisara was hidden inside this cave by his wife
shops and large group of locals wandering and then sealed with a spell. This legend became
around. Trekking up and down the hill is
somewhat similar to visiting Sri Pada in Sri Lanka. Key to the treasury of King Bimbisara

One of the other two ladies who remained at the so widely accepted and an effort was made to
entrance, got sick and needed medical attention blow open the cave with cannon during the
immediately. So we hurried to the hotel nearby British era to get the treasure. However, the
as planned for our lunch and while we were effort failed and all we have now is a still
having our lunch Janath and Indian guide took standing door apparently sealed by rock. There
the two patients to a nearby doctor and returned was more of that Shell script on the wall which
with the news that she would be recovering after according to our guide, was the key to the
treatments without any seriousness. Other treasure, if it could be deciphered. Then we
patient who was with a wound on the forehead visited Jivaka's Mango Garden which is located in
had treated with four stiches. After resting a the Jivakameavan Gardens inside Rajgiri City.
while there, we proceeded to see the ruins of Jivaka was the Royal Physician of Bimbisara and
Nalanda University. Nalanda was an ancient Ajatashattha, the Magadha rulers; and he was
Mahavihara, a large and revered Buddhist famous for being the one who treated Lord
monastery, in the ancient kingdom of Magadha Buddha's wounds when Buddha came to him for
in India. treatment. He had his dispensary within this
garden gifted to him by Bimbisara, and used the
On the way, we saw the Veluwanaramaya, the herbs there to make Ayurvedic medicines for
Bamboo Grove, Veluvana which was donated by treatments. Then we saw the Chariot Tracks
King Bimbisara to Buddha for his residence. feature two parallel furrows cut into the rocks. It
Today, it is a park with admiring sights of is believed to be the place where Lord Buddha
bamboos, flowers and a large pond with stopped the Koliya army moving forward who
Buddha's image in the center. declared war against Shakya King Suddhodhana,
preventing death of large number of lives.
Then reached the 4 meters wide 40 km long wall
encircling the city built by the Mauryans with an
objective to fortify the city. Today most of it
stands in ruins. After watching it we were taken
to see the Bimbisara jail. Ajatshattha was the
king and the ruler of the Magadha's in 6th
Century B.C when he built this grand fort.
According to the legend of history, Ajatshattha
imprisoned his father Bimbisara in a jail inside
this fort after he took the throne. Bimbisara, a
staunch disciple ofBuddha, chose a spot from
where he could see Lord Buddha give his

In search of Dambadiva -2018 18

After viewing the important places in Rajagiri the ruins of Nalanda University about 12 Kms
(Ancient Rajagaha Nuwara), once sturdy and from Rajagri. Nalanda was an ancient
stable fort is now famous for being in ruins and Mahavihara, a large and revered Buddhist
hardly even resembling the magnificence that it monastery, in the ancient kingdom of Magadha
once was, we proceeded towards Nalanda to see in India.

Sona Bandhar cave

Starting point of the Areal Ropeway

Inspecting the Chariot marks

Climbing down the hill At the Shanthi Stupa on the top of the hill

In search of Dambadiva -2018 19

Ruins of Jeevaka Mango garden Pathway to the top of the hill

Remains of the wall built encircling the city Jain sculptures in the 2nd Cave

Ruins of the Bimbisara Jail Veluvana Uyana (Bamboo grove) premises now used as a park

In search of Dambadiva -2018 20

RUINS OF NALANDA UNIVERSITY

Nalanda is located in the North-eastern Indian state of Bihar. It is well known as the
ancient Centre of learning which has the remains of the great Nalanda University.
The university was established in the 5th century BC and was one of the oldest
Universities of the world. The ruins of the university is spread over an area of 14
hectares land with a number of temples and monasteries built by the contemporary
kings Gupta, Kushan and Palva dynasties. Lord Buddha visited this place and it
remained a renowned learning Centre till 12th century. The famous Chinese
traveller Hieun Tsang studied here and his documents provide details about the
university.

During its heyday, Nalanda could boast of its capacity to accommodate 10,000
students from all over the world and 2,000 professors, and the dormitories provided

In search of Dambadiva -2018 21

by Nalanda University are believed to have been the first of its kind. The complex
also included lecture halls, meditation halls, libraries, monasteries, hostels,
chaitiyas, temples, lakes and parks. Nalanda University was among the first great
universities in recorded history, predating such institutions of higher learning like
Al-Azhar in Egypt (10 th century AD), the University of Bologna in Italy (11 th century
AD), and Oxford University in England (12 th century AD).

The real blow to Nalanda came with the arrival of Muslim invaders in 1197 led by
Mohammad Bakhtiyar Khilji, a general of Qutbuddin Aibak, who were intolerant of
other religions and cultures. Much of the university was demolished, its priceless
library was burnt down, and many of its scholars, including Buddhist monks, were
mercilessly slaughtered, in what was one of the greatest acts of cultural vandalism
in India.

A retired University professor, a pleasing It is evident, that the Nalanda Mahavihara must
character, seemed to be a well-known friend of have featured a well-equipped library. The
our Indian guide was at the entrance gate to existence of a great library at Nalanda named
welcome us to the site. We all enjoyed the way Dharmaganja (Treasury of Truth) which
he spoke good Sinhala and English with Indian comprised three large multistoried buildings, the
accent. Thereon, while walking, he explained Ratnasagara (Ocean of Jewels), the Ratnodadhi
everything starting from the history of (Sea of Jewels), and the Ratnaranjaka (Jewel-
establishment of the Nalanda University to the adorned). Ratnodadhi was nine storied high and
present situation. He requested us to get housed the most sacred manuscripts including
together to listen to his lectures at several the Pragnaparamita Sutra and the Guhyasamaja
locations of importance, but we were interested (Tantra of the Secret Community). Its collection
to see his way of conducting the language like a was said to comprise hundreds of thousands of
musical rhythm. His knowledge is sufficient volumes, so extensive that it burned for months
enough to write a good book on the subject. when set aflame by Muslim invaders in 1197.

Professor explaining the site plan of Nalanda University The exact number of volumes in the Nalanda
library is not known, but it is estimated to have
been in the hundreds of thousands. When a
Buddhist scholar at Nalanda died, his
manuscripts were added to the library collection.
The library not only collected religious
manuscripts but also had texts on such subjects
as grammar, logic, literature, astrology,
astronomy, and medicine. The Nalanda library
must have had a classification scheme which was
possibly based on a text classification scheme
developed by the Sanskrit linguist, Panini. (The
history of linguistics begins not with Plato or

In search of Dambadiva -2018 22

Aristotle, but with the Indian grammarian The Stupa of Sariputtha contains the bones of
Panini). Buddhist texts were most likely divided one of the two chief disciples of Gautam Buddha.
into three classes based on three main divisions Sariputtha became a celebrated Arahat after he
of the Tripitakaya: the Vinaya, Sutra, and the was able to attain salvation following Buddha's
Abhidhamma. footsteps. The stupa is of a pyramidal shape and
is imposing in size, surrounded by pillared
Scene of the Nalanda from the entrance structures, typical to Buddhist structures. Seven
stories of construction explain its colossal size,
Some of our members were interested in taking making it a sight to behold.
photographs at various locations while others
were following the professor for his interesting It was a great experience and it is worth visiting
way of explaining the historical value of there by anybody to see such a destruction made
locations. According to him, from Gupta times by an uncivilized group to the treasury of the
the monasteries of Nalanda were surrounded by knowledge that could have been used for
a high wall. The excavations revealed a row of 10 generations for the benefit of the mankind and
monasteries of the traditional Indian design— all living being as well which never be able to
oblong brick structures with cells opening onto restore. We thanked our professor for sharing
four sides of a courtyard, with a main entrance the knowledge with us and proceeded to see the
on one side and a shrine facing the entrance other important places.
across the courtyard. In front of the monasteries
stood a row of larger shrines, or stupas, in brick It was late in the evening and it was observed
and plaster. The entire complex is referred to on that the patient in the bus needed further
seals discovered there as Mahavihara (“Great medical treatments. Janath with the assistance
Monastery”). It was told that several thousands of our Indian guide and the driver struggled to
of teachers and students were maintained out of find a medical Centre by the side of the highway.
the revenues from more than 100 villages Bus was stopped at several places and tried to
around the University. We walked around meet a doctor. Some places refused to treat
almost all the important places in the site and foreigners and some places have no such
gained a fair knowledge of the great historic emergency treating facility to accept the
International Buddhist University. patients. Eventually, they found a doctor who
agreed to see the patient and got treatments.
Janath did not panic and did all the needful even
bringing a wheel chair for the patient to take to
the clinic from the bus. Consolation for everyone
and resumed the journey. We were then
reached to a hotel in Vaishali, had our late dinner
and stayed the night there. Next day after
breakfast, we were toured to see the important
places in Vaishali. Vaishali is located 150 Kms
away from Nalanda.

In search of Dambadiva -2018 23

Wide Angle view of the ruins of Nalanda University
Wide angle view of the ruins of Nalanda University

In front of the Sariputta Stupa Nalanda university premises

Listening to Professor Ruins of Nalanda University

In search of Dambadiva -2018 24

VAISHALI

Vaishali or Vesali was a city in present-day Bihar
in India, and is now an archaeological site.
Vaishali today is a small village surrounded by
banana and mango groves as well as rice fields.
But excavations in the area have brought to light
an impressive historical past. Historians
maintain that one of the world’s first democratic
republics with an elected assembly of
representatives flourished here in the 6th
century B.C. in the time of the Vajjis and the
Lichchavis. And while Pataliputra, capital of the
Mauryas and the Guptas, held political sway
over the Gangetic plain, Vaishali was the center
for trade and industry.

Lord Buddha visited Vaishali frequently and
preached his last sermon. To commemorate the event, Emperor Ashoka, in the third
century B.C. erected one of his famous lion pillars here. A hundred years after the
Mahaparinirvana of the Buddha – Vaishali hosted the second great Buddhist council
to settle questions on the Dhamma and Vinaya. Two stupas were erected to
commemorate this event. On the outskirts of Vaishali stood the grand double
storied Buddhist monastery. Buddha often discoursed here. He extended spiritual
enfranchisement to women by admitting them to the Holy Order which was
founded here. Legend has it that on one of his visits, several monkeys dug up a tank
for his comfortable stay and offered him a bowl of honey. This is regarded as one of
the great incidents in the legends of Buddha, who announced his approaching
Nirvana and preached his last sermon here.

Vaishali is well known for its close association Buddha frequently visited Vaishali. Vaishali was
with the Buddha. After leaving Kapilavastu for established as a republic by the 6th century BC,
renunciation, he came to Vaishali first and had prior to the birth of Gautama Buddha in 563,
his spiritual training from Udraka Ramaputra and making it the world’s first republic. He organized
Alara Kalama. After the Enlightenment the his Bhikshu Sangha on the pattern of Vaishalian

In search of Dambadiva -2018 25

democracy. It was here that he established the condition (perhaps the only complete Asokan
Bhikshuni Sangha, initiating his maternal aunt pillar left standing), and an ancient pond. The
Maha Prajavati Gautami into the order. His last Lion pillar which was built by Emperor Ashoka
Varshavasa (rainy season resort) was here and has been chiseled out of a highly polished single
the place gains significance from the fact that it piece of red sandstone. An 18.3 m high structure,
is here that Lord Buddha announced the it stands surmounted by a bell shaped capital. A
imminence of his Mahaparinirvana (the final life-size figure of a lion is adorns the top of the
departure from the world) just three months in pillar. The difference between this Ashoka
advance. Before leaving for Kusinagara, where pillar and other Ashoka pillars is that, this one
he attained Nirvana, he left his alms-bowl has only one lion capital. This pillar beside a brick
(Bhikshu-Patra) with the people of Vaishali. Lord stupa commemorates Buddha's last sermon. The
Buddha also visited Vaishali five years after the Shanti Stupa, built by Buddha Vihar Society, lies
attainment of His enlightenment. The Lichhavis on the south bank of the coronation tank.
offered a grand welcome to the Lord on his After visiting Vaishali, we were also followed the
arrival in Vaishali. path of Lord Buddha to visit Kushinagar.

The Relic Kesariya Stupa here is the Lichchavis Buddha Relic Stupa
reverentially encased one of the eight portions
of the sacred ashes of the Master Lord Buddha in
a stone casket, which they received after the
Mahaparinirvana. A few hundred meters away
from the Relic Stupa is Abhishek Pushkarini, the
coronation tank. The sacred waters of the tank
anointed the elected representatives of Vaisali.

Kutagarasala Vihara was the monastery where
Buddha most frequently stayed while visiting
Vishali. It is located 3 kilometres from the relic
Stupa, and on its ground can be found the
Ananda Stupa, with an Asokan pillar in very good

Common sight of transport with natural air Towards Kesariya Stupa

In search of Dambadiva -2018 26

Ananda stupa and Ashoka pillar seen behind

In front of the Ashoka pillar

Monastery of Kutagarashala premises with the pond

At the ruins of the Ananda stupa

Observing the area

Listening to the historical incidences 27

In search of Dambadiva -2018

KUSHINAGAR

Kushinagar is a pilgrimage town in the
Kushinagar district of the Indian state of
Uttar Pradesh. In the medieval period,
Kushinagar had passed under the
suzerainty of Kultury Kings. Kushinara
continued to be a living city till the 12th
century CE and was thereafter lost into
oblivion. However, modern Kushinagar
came into prominence in the 19th
century with archaeological excavations
carried out by Alexander Cunningham, the first Archeological Surveyor of India and
later followed by C.L. Carlleyle who exposed the main stupa and also discovered a
6.10 meters long statue of reclining Buddha in 1876.

It is an important Buddhist pilgrimage site, where Buddhists believe Gautama
Buddha attained Parinirvana (end of rebirth). It is an international Buddhist
pilgrimage Centre. The followers of Buddhism, especially from Asian countries, wish
to visit this place at least once in their lifetime.

Then we were heading towards Kushinagar, the entrance chanting Sadu Sadu. We had the feeling
place where Lord Buddha had passed away. In that we were attending to the funeral of Lord
ancient times, the town was also known as Buddha. Different items had brought by
Kushinara and Kasia. About 185 Kms journey
from Vishali. Our lunch was arranged to have at
a local restaurant on the way. Refreshing after
lunch, we started our journey again. Indian guide
described various matters showing his
knowledge related to this journey.

We all were well prepared to pay respects to Taking the six feet robe all together
reclining Nirvana statue of Lord Buddha. One
lady had brought a six-meter-long robe prepared
in Sri Lanka, for all of us to join together to cover
the statue with more respect. At the entrance to
the temple site all of us got together and held it
above the heads and took it to the temple

In search of Dambadiva -2018 28

members of our group to offer them to the (passed away). It was once a celebrated center
statue. Two care takers inside helped us to cover of the Malla kingdom. Many of its stupas and
the reclining statue of the Buddha with the robe viharas date back to 230 BC-AD 413 when its
that we brought in. We paid our respects to the prosperity was at the peak. In 543 BC, on a full
Lord Buddha calmly moving round the statue. moon night of the Month of Wesak the legend
delivered his last sermon to his Sangha and
Covering the reclining Buddha statue with the robe brought in declared that he is going to leave the mortal
world soon enough.
The reclining Nirvana statue of the Buddha is
inside the Parinirvana Stupa. The statue is 6.10 The Buddha's last days are described in the Pali
meters long and is made of monolith red text called the Great Parinirvana Sutra. Buddha
sandstone. It represents the "last stage of made his journey to Kushinagar, the village of
Buddha" reclining on his right side with his face Kusinara of the Mallas and attained Nirvana
towards the west. It is placed on a large brick there. This is the place where he was cremated.
pedestal with stone-posts at the corners. The The Buddha realized that his end was fast
facial expression of Lord Buddha seems to approaching and it is believed that during his last
change when viewed from different positions. In day he walked into the groves of trees near the
front of the face, one can discern a smiling mood. city and rejoiced at the blossoms of sala trees
Near the middle part of the body, one would (Shorea robusta), before laying himself to rest.
discern a mood of suffering. At the feet, one can He told Ananda to prepare a bed for him with its
discern the calm and serenity in the face. head turned towards the north between two sal
trees. His final words, "Behold, O monks, this is
my last advice to you. All existing things in the
world are impermanent. They are not lasting.
Work hard without delay to gain your own
salvation." Buddha's body was kept at this
location for one week, before the cremation.

On the front of the couch are three sculptures, Parinirvana Stupa
believed to represent Ven. Ananda near the feet,
Ven. Subhadda at the middle and Ven. Dabba The present temple was built by the Indian
Malla at the corner. At the center is an Government in 1956 as part of the
inscription of the 5th century AD, which states commemoration of the 2,500th year of the
the statue was "a gift of the monk Haribala of the
Mahavihara and was fashioned by Dinna". It was
discovered in 1876 in a dilapidated condition and
the scattered fragments were successfully
pieced together.

Kushinagar is another principal center of
Buddhism, worth a sincere admiration, is the
place where Lord Buddha attained Nirvana

In search of Dambadiva -2018 29

Mahaparinivana or 2500 BE (Buddhist Era). King Trucks loads of goods in the queues to Nepal
Ashoka built a stupa and pilgrimage site to mark
Buddha's parinirvana in Kushinagar. The Hindu without moving for a long period of time.
rulers of the Gupta Empire (fourth to seventh Although, the driver was a young small made
century) helped greatly enlarge the Nirvana person he managed to overtake others just like
stupa, Kushinagar site, and building a temple creeping through the trucks. It was observed
with reclining Buddha. This site was abandoned that there was a road culture that if any one
by Buddhist monks around 1200 CE, who fled to behind signaled by blowing the horn or flashing
escape the invading Muslim army, after which the light, others would always allow it to
the site decayed over the Islamic rule in India overtake. Almost all those trucks were with
that followed. The British archaeologist typical decorations and very colorful with many
Alexander Cunningham rediscovered Kushinagar decorations and words in Hindi and English. It
in the late 19th century, and his colleague A. C. was noticed that the words such as “Blow
L. Carlleyle unearthed the 1,500-year-old Horns”, “Horn Please” “Use Dipper at night”
Buddha image. The site has since then become were displayed on the back side of almost all the
an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. vehicles.
Archaeological evidence from the 3rd century
BCE suggests that the Kushinagar was an ancient After few long hours, we arrived at the Indian
pilgrimage site. Nepal border and while we were in the bus our
Indian guide along with Janath went to the
Then we were taken to see the Ramabhar Stupa, Immigration office with our passports to comply
also called a Mukutbandhan-Chaitya, is the place with the immigration formalities. After they
where Lord Buddha was cremated. This site is came back, we drove through the entrance gate
1.5 km east of the main Nirvana Temple on the to Nepal. Another an hours’ time, we were at the
Kushinagar-Deoria road. Most of the Buddhists hotel in Lumbini. Then had our dinner and
all over the world visit the place with great comfortably stayed overnight there.
respect, pay homage to Buddha and meditate in
a peaceful environment for a few minutes, to
understand the teachings of "Enlightened" one.

Our next destination was Lumbini the birth place
of Lord Buddha, 175 Kms journey to Nepal
crossing the Indian border.

It was a wonderful experience. The highway to
Nepal border was full of huge colorful heavy
goods vehicles in queues for kilometers long.
Some places we were in between the trucks

In search of Dambadiva -2018 30

Wide angle view of the temple site

Six feet Robe carrying to the temple Place where the body of the Buddha kept for one week

Carrying the Robe with respect Pay respect to reclining Buddha

Ruins around the Parinirvana temple 31

In search of Dambadiva -2018

LUMBINI

Lumbini is a Buddhist pilgrimage site
in the Rupandehi District of Province
No. 5 in Sourthern Nepal. It is the
place where, according to Buddhist
tradition, Queen Mahamayadevi
gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama
in 563 BCE. Lumbini is one of many
pilgrimage sites that sprang up in
places pivotal to the life of the
Buddha. Lumbini has a number of
older temples, including the
Mayadevi Temple, and various new temples, maintained by Buddhist organizations
from various countries which have been completed or are still under construction.
Many monuments, monasteries and a museum, and the Lumbini International
Research Institute are also within the holy site. Also, there is the Puskarini, or Holy
Pond, where the Buddha's mother took the ritual dip prior to his birth and where he
had his first bath. Lumbini was made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997.

It was our 6th day of the tour. After breakfast, we
proceeded to visit the Birth Place of Lord
Buddha, the Lumbini. At the entrance from the
Mayadevi garden to the entrance to the Temple
about 100 meters, we had a joy ride by three
wheel bikes parked there to provide transport
for the people with difficulties to walk. We
enjoyed the short distance ride.

Lumbini is the Buddha's birthplace, one of the
world's most important spiritual sites and
attracts Buddhist pilgrims from around the
world. Mayadevi Temple is the most
sacred site in the Lumbini Garden where
archaeologists have identified the exact spot
where Lord Buddha was born. Inscriptions on the
Ashoka Pillar nearby also refer to the spot as his

Three wheel drive at Lumbini

In search of Dambadiva -2018 32

Sacred pond Pushkarini

birthplace. The birth took place in the beautiful Monasteries and temples were built at Lumbini
Sal grove, which is now the focal point of the until the 9th century, but Buddhism declined in
Lumbini Garden. Maha Mayadevi, the Queen of the area after the arrival of Islam and later
Shakya King Suddhodhana of Kapilvastu, while Hinduism. The garden of the Buddha's birth was
passing through the Lumbini Garden, on her way lost for a thousand years. The site was
to her parent's home in Devdaha, on the day rediscovered in 1895, by a German archaeologist
of Vaishakha Purnima (full moon day of Vesak in who came upon Ashoka's Pillar and, identified by
623 BC), took a bath in the Sacred Pond its inscription. Records made by the Chinese
Pushkarini and soon after gave birth to Prince pilgrim Fa Xian were also used in the process of
Siddhartha. The Prince is said to have identifying this religiously acclaimed site.
announced, "This is my final rebirth" as he Lumbini was designated a UNESCO World
entered the world. Buddhist tradition also has it Heritage Site in 1997.
that he walked immediately after his birth and
took seven steps, under each of which a lotus We had an opportunity to listen to a Dhamma
flower bloomed and delivered his peace sermon preached by a Bangladeshi Buddhist
message to humanity here. monk who had studied in Sri Lanka, near the
stupa behind the Lumbini Temple which was
As we entered the temple, it was noticed that built over the very place the Buddha was born
there were signs everywhere saying No Camera. beneath the sal tree.
Surroundings inside were basically well
protected ruins of mud bricks. Special flat forms After visiting the temple, the Ashoka pillar and
erected for walking inside and to observe the the pond, we came to the other important place
ruins of the exact place of the birth occurred. which is the Bodhi tree beside the Maya Devi
Another focal point in the Lumbini was the temple. This Bo tree highly regarded and
Ashoka Pillar built by the great Indian decorated with many colorful prayer flags by the
Emperor Ashoka, who became a devout devotees. Certainly, the most colorful and
Buddhist while visiting the birthplace of the decorated sight in Lumbini is the famous “Bodhi
Buddha back in 249 BC. Ashoka's Pillar bears an tree”. Most of us also brought prayer flags from
inscription that translates as: "King Piyadasi Sri Lanka to be hanged there to get the blessings.
(Ashoka), beloved of devas, in the 20 year of the
coronation, himself made a royal visit, Buddha The silent atmosphere kept our heart at peace.
Sakyamuni having been born here, a stone railing Overall a very peaceful environment. There is a
was built and a stone pillar erected to the very old history there which has been blended
Bhagavan ["blessed one"] having been born well with modern day landscaping. After
here.” spending little time there, we returned to the
hotel. After lunch, we resumed the journey

In search of Dambadiva -2018 33

towards Sravasthi ancient name Savath Nuwara bicycles, Taxis, and other types of vehicles and
260 Kms from Lumbini back to Indian Territory. cows as well. At the Immigration India office our
attention was drawn to a sign board by the side
Again we were at the Indian Boarder for of the small office, read as “ STOP, INDIAN
Immigration formalities after about one-hour IMMIGRATION- Check post – Sonauli-
drive from Lumbini. Then it was daytime and we Maharajganj U.P. - Foreigners are requested to
could see the surrounding very clearly. It was stop and get their passports stamped on their
untidy place and people seem to be very arrival/departure in/from India”.
lethargic. Street was full of people, three wheel

Entrance to Lumbini Garden At the entrance gate to Lumbini Temple
Scene from the entrance gate

Endorsement on the World Heritage list Group photo of at the entrance door

In search of Dambadiva -2018 34

Some advises before entering to the temple

Going round the sacred Bo tree

In the Lumbini Garden

At the Lumbini temple premises Listening to Dhamma preached by Bangladeshi Monk

In search of Dambadiva -2018 35

KAPILAVASTHU

Piprahwa and its surroundings are of great significance to the Buddhists. It is one
of the sites that is linked directly to the early life of the Buddha as it is thought to be
the location of the ancient city of Kapilavastu. According to Pali texts and ancient
Buddhist traditions Piprahwa is also the site of one of eight stupas constructed over
the remains of Lord Buddha. According to Buddhist tradition, Kapilavastu is the
name of the ancient city where Siddhartha Gautama, also known as the Buddha,
was raised and lived until the age of 29, when he renounced worldly life. Kapilavastu
was an ancient city on the Indian subcontinent which was the capital of the clan of
the Shakyas which was located about 10 kilometres west of Lumbini (the birthplace
of the Siddhartha Gautama). It is not far from the Indian-Nepalese border. King
Śuddhodana and Queen Māyā parents of Sidhartha Gauthama are believed to have
lived there. We all know the popular story of Buddha’s renunciation of pursuit of
material comforts of the world. We know that he lived a luxurious well-protected
early life. He was married and had a son named Rahula. We were told that he saw
an old man, a sick man, a dead body and a Monk that made him question the
meaning of life. He left everything he had in search of the meaning of life and the
world got Buddha.

In search of Dambadiva -2018 36

After about half an hour, again we were on our considered to be the ruins of King
way to Kapilavasthu, the kingdom of the clan of Suddhodhana's palace. The village has a mystic
Shakyas, where Siddhartha Gautama spent the charm, the magic of which can be felt through
first 29 years of his life with his father King devoted mind and dedication. However, even for
Suddhodana. After having lunch at a hotel in the mere archaeological reasons, there are many
ancient kingdom, we were able to see the ruins stupas scattered around the place, built by
of the kingdom. Ashoka and the Gupta Kings. The symbols left
behind by the Sakya dynasty is clearly visible
Excavations by archaeological survey of India there. We spent the time watching the remains
have revealed, the relation of this place to the of the palace complex and the palace where
Kushan period. An excavated stupa bears text Siddhartha was. After visiting the Relic stupa
that proves the existence of an ancient constructed by Shakyas over 1/8th part of
monastery named Devaputra in this place. Two Buddha’s relics received by them, we resumed
mounds have also been excavated at only a little our journey to Sravasthi.
distance (1.5 km) from this village which, is

Wide angle view of ruins of Kapilavasthu

Observing Ruins of king's palace At the ruins of a palace of Sidhartha

Walking round the relic Stupa Group photo

In search of Dambadiva -2018 37

SRAVASTHI-(Jethavana)

The capital of Kosala Mahajanapada in the ancient times, Sravasti is also known as
Sahet-Mahet. During the annual vassana seasons (rainy), the city hosted the Lord
for 25 years. The presence of Lord Buddha in Sravasti led his Sangha advance to
congregate into one place. Sravasti is also renowned for the magical feats
(Yamahamaha pelahara) showed by Lord Buddha, sitting on a lotus and for the
other many stories that are linked with Buddha. Age-old stupas, majestic viharas
and several temples near the village of "Sahet-Mahet" establish Buddha's
association with Shravasti. It is said that the Vedic period king, Shravasta, founded
this town. Shravasti was located on the banks of the river Achiravati (now called the
Rapti River). It was the capital city of the kingdom of Kosala, and its king was called
Pasenadi, who was a disciple of Buddha. It is a beautiful city with vast amounts of

In search of Dambadiva -2018 38

agriculture and diversity. The site of Jetavana monastery is the main pilgrim
destination, with meditation and chanting mainly done at the Gandhakuti
(Buddha's chamber) and the Anandabodhi tree. Buddhist monasteries have been
constructed by the countries Thailand, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Tibet, and
China at Sravasthi.

Owing to bad condition of roads in these areas, to him in Rajgir. The monastery was donated to
our journey was delayed a little. Sometimes we him by his chief male lay disciple, Anathapindika.
felt like we were in a ship as the bus was swaying
to both sides due pot holes on the road. As the bus stopped at the entrance of the
However, the driver had shown his skills and Jathawana, our bus was surrounded by the
ability to navigate the vehicle without any pitiful beggars, mostly young and children that
damage. Finally, we reached Sravasthi little late are such a common sight in pilgrim sites in India.
as estimated. We checked-in to a hotel and after But all our attention was drawn towards a
dinner stayed the night completing the 6th day. musical band comprised with two young ladies,
one was singing with a small kid in her arms and
the other playing a drum (Dolki) on the ground
at the door step of the bus. We were amazed by
the beautiful voice and the way she sang the
beautiful popular Hindi song (Paradeshi). It was
a memorable sudden entertainment we had
during our journey. We compelled to donate
some money to them and proceeded to
Jathawana.

Ruins of the congregation hall Usual gathering of Monks at the Buddha's Gandhakuti

Next day after breakfast, we went to The Commentaries state that the Buddha spent
Jathawanarama (Dewram Vehera) premises. twenty-five rainy seasons in Shravasti, thus
Jetavana is currently a historical park, with leaving only twenty to be spent elsewhere. Of
remains of many ancient buildings such as the 25 rainy seasons which Buddha lived in
monasteries, cottages (such as the Gandhakuti, Shravasti, he spent 19 in the monastery named
the Kosambakuti and Anandakuti), ponds and Jetavana, and 6 in the monastery called
stupas. A visit to Savatthi (Ancient
Savathnuwara) and Jetavana is part of the 39
Buddhist pilgrim route in North-India. The
second-holiest tree of Buddhism the
Anandabodhi Tree is also located in Jetavana.
The most revered place in Jetavana is the
Gandhakuti, where Buddha used to stay. It was
the second vihara donated to Gautama Buddha
by King Bimbisara, after the Venuvana donated

In search of Dambadiva -2018

Pubbarama close to Savatthi which was built by the large assembly hall used to deliver sermons
the Buddha's chief female lay disciple, Visakha. on daily basis and the beautiful stage, chambers
Thus, Shravasti is the place where Buddha lived of other monks such as Ananda, Sariputtha,
the longest amount of time, and it is the place Moggallana who stayed nearby, large pond and
where he gave the largest amount of discourses number of small stupas. The most important
and instructions. place in there is the Ananda Bodhi. There is a
belief among Buddhists that if someone touch
Remains of the Jethavana are well preserved by the Bo tree while worshipping and make a wish
Archaeological survey of India. It is a fantastic it would become reality. We conducted some
place. We started from the entrance and walked rituals under the Bo tree and I saw most of the
along well maintained path ways viewing all the people made wishes touching the Bo tree which
important Buddhist historical places one by one was a sapling of the original Bo tree at
guided by a Sri Lankan Bhikkuni who was in a Mahabodhi in Bodhgaya where Sidhdhartha
wheel chair. She explained all the details of each Gouthama attained enlightenment. It is a very
place. All of us took more time at the remains of old tree and well preserved with medications to
Mulagandakuti where Lord Buddha said to be keep it alive. Jethavana also has a magical charm
stayed, with the feeling that we were contacting that enlivens tired tourists instantly. It took at
the ground of the sacred place on which Buddha least 1-2 hours to complete the tour in Jethavana
spent time. We were taken to see the ruins of and we returned to the hotel.

Paying homage to Lord Buddha in front of the Gandakuti

Ruins of the Jethavana Monastry 40

In search of Dambadiva -2018

Bhikkuni describing the historical events

Observing the Buddha's Kuti

At the Buddha's Kuti (Chamber)

Performing retuals at the Ananda Bodhi

At the Ananda Bodhi Robe to be offered to Anandha Bodhi

Bikkuni describes about the ancient well used by the monastery 41

In search of Dambadiva -2018

END OF THE PILGRIMAGE

After having lunch, we were in the bus again airport. We thanked Mr.Janath for successfully
heading towards Varanasi 330 Kms. far from completing this pilgrimage and making us happy.
Sravasthi. Estimated time was about 9 hours to He became our good friend thereafter.
reach Varanasi. On the way we stopped at a local
restaurant for tea and to make use of a wash This pilgrim tour was very successful and
room to empty the bladders. After refreshing comfortable. All arrangements were well
with the tea served in paper cups, we resumed planned and facilities provided and timing were
our journey. We felt no tired even after 6 days up to the very satisfactory level. We participated
long travelling in the bus as it was a luxury one in this pilgrimage for one purpose and one
with enough space. As it was getting dark most reason alone—to witness by ourselves the
of us fell as sleep. Finally, we arrived at the hotel historical places associated by the great noble
completing our pilgrimage, about half an hour personality the Lord Buddha and to make our
late as estimated and had our late dinner. dream “visit to Dambadiva” come true. We were
Contemplating the success of the pilgrimage able to accomplish our purpose successfully.
with the feeling of happiness for being able to Thanks to the Archeological Survey of India for
associate with the footsteps of the Lord Buddha, preserving and maintaining these sites in good
we went to bed to have a peaceful sleep. standards. The journey started from Varanasi
and ended at the same place covering the round
Next day early morning, we packed our luggage trip of more than the estimated 1470 Kms.
including other things that we bought from here Travelling alone it took more than 34 Hrs. in the
and there and got ready to leave India for our bus.
homes. After breakfast, we had little time for the
flight. Our Indian guide made arrangement to do However, journey in search of Damabadiva was
some shopping on the way to the airport at some a fantastic one which we would never forget in
shops he might be knowing, as most of the shops our life time. We were fortunate to travel
were closed at that time. While ladies were busy throughout the Ganges plain on which the
buying sarees and other types of gift items Buddha lived and travelled for 45 years long with
available in those shops, we bought some fresh his disciples to preach his doctrines. Buddha’s
pomegranate selling on the side of the road, and own life was a life of supreme dedication. In a
Indian sweets from the sweet shops close by. world of sufferings, he suffered himself to know
After last munities shopping was over, we the means of eternal happiness. His valuable
proceeded to the airport. Before we got down discoveries regarding the earthly sufferings,
from the bus, we thanked Mr.Singh our Indian liberation of humans from the bondage of
guide, the driver and the helper for their desires for a nobler and better life for salvation,
excellent service rendered to us and for bringing the Nirvana made deep appeals to human mind.
us back to the airport safely. Further, we The story of his life has ever remained a source
collected some money from everybody and of spiritual inspiration to millions.
gifted to them as a goodwill gesture and said
good bye to them. After another two three hours The pilgrimage feels like a dream I have just
we were in the Bandaranayike International awoken from. May all sentient beings be Happy
(Sabbe Saththa Bhavanthu Sukithathwa)
In search of Dambadiva -2018
42

Multifarious Memories

With Janath

Janath with Mr. Singh

Janath in the Immigration office

With Mr. Singh Three-wheel ride

Scene at the Immigration India office Hotel in Lumbini

In search of Dambadiva -2018 43

Paying homage at the Buddha's chamber

Ruins of Buddha's Chamber (Kuti)

At the Ananda Bodhi

Ruins of a Monastery

Waiting to welcome to Nepal Scene through the Nepal- India border gate

In search of Dambadiva -2018 44

Waiting for hire at the Immigration India

Lal Bahadur Sashtri International Airport Varanasi

Scene captured while travelling

Hotel at Budh Gaya

End point of the Areal Ropeway Living together captured on the way to
Nepal
In search of Dambadiva -2018
45

DETAILED PROGRAM

DESTINATION COVERED:- Varanasi -01 Night, Bodhgay-02 Nights, Vaishali- 01 Night, Lumbini-
01 Night, Saravasti- 01 Night, Varanasi -01 Night

Duration:- 07 Nights & 08 Days

Date City Meals Itinerary
Day 1 COLOMBO /VARANASI --/CL/CD
On arrival meet with our local representative and
transfer to hotel. On arrival check –in. Lunch at
Hotel. Excursion to sarnath to visit Deer Park where
Lord Buddha gave his first sermon, ruins of the site
of Dharamrajika & Dhamek Stupa Museum. Evening
articipate in chanting Dinner & Overnight stay at
hotel.

HOTEL :

Day 2 VARANASI-BODHGAYA AB/CL/CD Wake Up early in the morning and proceed to the
Ghats for a morning boat ride on the river Ganges.
Return to the hotel for breakfast. Later drive Drive
to Bodhgaya (275 Kms / 06 hrs). On arrival check
–in. evening visit M ahabodhi Temple, dinner and
overnight stay at hotel. Dinner & O/n at stay.

Hotel:

Day 3 BODHGAYA AB/CL/CD After breakfast proceed to Main temple for Sill
observation. Late proceed to visit Sujata Village,
Niranjana River Come back to hotel for hot lunch.
Later proceed (15 kms/30 minutes) to visit the
Pragbodhi cave (the site where Lord Buddha did his
physical mortification for six years continuously). In
evening visit main temple to do meditation and
prayer under Bodhi Tree. Dinner & overnight stay at
Hotel

Hotel:-

Day 4 GAYA/RAJ/NAL/VAISHALI AB/CL/CD After breakfast, check-out and drive towards Rajgir
(70km/2hrs). On arrival visit Gridhkut hill. Later
visit Bimbisar Jail where King Bimbisar was
imprisoned by his son and kept there. Have lunch at
Rajgir. After lunch visit Venuvan Vihar. Later drive to
(12km/30min) and visit ruins of world famous
Nalanda University. Also visit Sariputta relic Stupa and
monasteries. Later, drive to Vaishali (150Km/3:50
Km). On arrival check –in Dinner & Ovenight stay at
hotel.

Hotel:

In search of Dambadiva -2018 46

Day 5 VISHALI AB/CL/CD After breakfast proceed to visit Ashoken Pillar, Reliac
/KUSHINAGAR/LUMBINI Stupa site & Coronation Tank & Kesariya Stupa.
Later drive to Kushinagar(185 Km 3:30 Hrs).
Day 6 LUMBINI/SARAVASTI Lunch at local restaurant or hotel. Later visit
Mahaparinirvana Temple and Ramabhar Stupa
Day 7 SARAVASTI/VARANASI where Kings from Malla Dynasty cremated the Lord
Day 8 VARANASI / COLOMBO Buddha. Later futher drive to Lumbini( 175Km 4:30
Hrs. (arrive at India Nepal boarder, after
immigration formalities drive further towards
Lumbini. Check-in at your hotel. Dinner & o/n stay
at the hotel.

Hotel:

AB/CL/CD After breakfast Proceed to visit the birth place of
Lord Buddha, Maya Devi Temple, Buddha Pond. Also
pray on the bank of this Pond. Later drive back to
hotel have lunch at hotel. Later drive to Sravasti
(260km/6Hrs) and enroute Lunch at Kapilavastu
visit Kapilvastu (India), the kingdom of Lord Buddha
where he spent his early life as a prince. Also visit
Relic Stupa and ruins of the kingdom. Upon arrivial
in Sravasti, check-in.Dinner overnight stay at hotel.

Hotel:

AB/CL/CD After breakfast proceed to visit Jetvanarama and
ancient site of Sravasti. Jetvanarama has Anand
bodhi tree, Gandh kuti, Kosambi kuti and other
archeological sites. Lunch at hotel later drive to
Varanasi (330 Km / 9 Hrs) Hrs).On arrival check –in
Dinner overnighst stay at hotel.

Hotel:

AB/-/- After breakfast free for own activities. Lunch at hotel
later transfer to airport to board on flight for onward
destination.

!! End of Memorable Tour !!

In search of Dambadiva -2018 47

In Search of Dambadiva compiled by: Sunil Premaratna 48
premaratna1951@gmail.com
18.06.2019

In search of Dambadiva -2018