A Step
Beyond Bali
J U N E - J U LY 2 0 2 0 HIDDEN
SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 TOK YO
THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000
MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 BRISBANE'S
MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240 BIRTH OF COOL
BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000
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June / July CONTENTS
Island dreaming at Batu Karang, Nusa Lembongan (page 66). pleasures. Now the debut
of a design-focused hotel is
STEPHAN KOTAS Departments 28 JOIN THE CLUB Put your raising the bar on style.
Discoveries hands in the air for beach- 52 SOCIETY SHORES With its
club culture on glitzier-by-
11 A minimalist all-villa retreat the-minute Koh Samui. glorious sands, Zapallar
is Chile’s most exclusive
in Pattaya; Siem Reap’s 34 HEAD FOR THE HILLS When coastal retreat. But it’s the
more contemporary spoils; laid-back way of life that
and a long list of resorts Manila gets claustrophobic, keeps families coming back.
with exclusive deals to get there’s nothing like a hike
you traveling again. to lift the spirits. 54 PERSONAL BEST Outside
Experiences 40 ART IN PARADISE Style Bodrum, Turkey, a hesitant
cyclist discovers ancient
19 IT’S ALWAYS SUNNY IN meets sustainability at the temples, unparalleled
naturally chic Joali Maldives hospitality and a newfound
AHANGAMA On the south resort in Raa Atoll. sense of self-reliance.
coast of Sri Lanka, a sleepy
surf town will leave you 44 ISLAND TIME Tioman The Intelligent
pondering a sea change. Traveler
rewards with reefs teeming
24 BRISBANE’S FRESH FACE with turtles and laissez- 57 How to beach hop
faire, schedule-free living.
A flourish of hip new hotels, sustainably: eco-friendly
dining spots and micro- 48 SUN, SAND AND STONE Paros, accessories for your next
bars sees Queensland’s island break, and a
once-dismissed capital on Greece, has long been look at some of Asia’s
course to become one of cherished for its simple green-hospitality
Australia’s coolest cities. groundbreakers.
Features
66 IN BALANCE A bit beyond
Bali, boats bob in waters
so clear you can see their
shadows in the sand. Beach
clubs ask only that you shed
your pretentions with your
flip-flops. And mola molas
and mantas remind us of
the important things.
74 ONCE UPON A TIME IN TOK YO
Japan’s capital is not all
bright lights and future-
forward. The true beauty of
Tokyo’s landscape is flush
with ripples of its past.
82 ROCK STEADY Nowhere
embodies St. Bart’s mix
of Caribbean beauty and
French va-va-voom like the
iconic Eden Rock hotel.
Wish You Were Here
90 Stylish social distancing
on an Andaman beach.
ON THE COVER
Green hero Batu Karang Resort
& Spa, on Nusa Lembongan.
Photograph by Stephan Kotas.
5T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
T + L DIGITAL
+
Lookout
this month on travelandleisureasia.com A robot dog polices
Singapore; our
T+L EDITORS SUGGEST THIS TOP CHEF- GO AHEAD, START editors’ favorite
THEIR FAVORITE STORIES APPROVED RECIPE FOR PLANNING YOUR NEXT books; what
FROM THE LAST YEAR PAD THAI IS A CURE-ALL TRIP TO JAPAN bartenders are
Past trips aren’t the only Classic Thai comfort food The emergency decree drinking at home;
thing we’ve been from Ton Tassanakajohn, in Japan has ended (yay!), the latest travel
reminiscing about. These one of the country’s most so, naturally, we have deals and much
are stories from the last beloved Michelin-starred started thinking about more.
12 months that our editors chefs. our next trip.
loved the most. travelandleisureasia.com
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6 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
CONTRIBUTORS
1. Chris Schalkx 3. Carolyn Beasley
IT’S ALWAYS SUNNY IN AHANGAMA GREENING THE BIG BLUE (P. 57 )
(P. 1 9)
“I traveled to Sri Lanka with my “Most of us don’t think about
toddler and my parents, who back-of-house services, but a
live on the other side of the resort’s sewage treatment plant,
globe. While the rickety train and how they generate power
1 can make a big difference to the
ride from Ella to Kandy took environment. Sustainable travel
the cake in terms of scenery, it highlights are a dime a dozen
was the moments spent frolick- at Bawah Reserve. My husband
ing at the pool with my family and I still talk about the solar-
that I’ll treasure the most. A powered boat that whisked us
visit to Ahangama is not com- across the coral-filled lagoon to
plete without a sundowner at a postcard, deserted island. The
Driftwood (order the Cucumber staff marooned us there under
Gimlet). On the beach in a little a sun shelter with a plastic-
cove where stilt fishermen await free, sumptuous picnic and trop-
their catch between the waves,
ical juices, much of the produce
the views are spectacular.
home grown. We snorkeled with
Throughout the trip, I ordered
turtles and explored by kayak,
hoppers for breakfast, lunch and with no other humans in sight.
dinner—and might’ve actually
Another hero eco-resort for me
2 had a few as snacks, too. The lit- is Batu Batu Resort, owned by
tle boho café Maria Bonita did a
FROM TO P : COURTESY OF CHRIS SCHALK X ; COURTESY OF JENNY HE WE T T; COURTESY OF CAROLYN BE ASLE Y; COURTESY OF STEPHAN KOTA S a local Malaysian family who
great version with poached egg,
are passionate about commu-
garlic-y mushrooms and a vegan nity outreach and protecting
hollandaise sauce.”
their marine environment.”
Instagram: @chrsschlkx.
Instagram: @familyecotravel.
2. Jenny H ewet t 4. Stephan Kotas
BRI SBA NE’S FRE SH FACE (P. 2 4) IN BA L A NCE (P. 66)
ONCE UPON A TIME IN TOKYO
(P. 74) “How can someone travel back
“Brisbane is heating up thanks in time? In just a short boat ride
in large part to its dining scene. you can get from busy Bali to
Contemporary Tel Aviv–inspired a place that feels like Bali was
15 years ago: Nusa Lembongan.
3 dining room Za Za Ta is a stand- It’s a small island with beauti-
out. It’s so refreshing to see
ful beaches, diving, surfing and
a chef championing cuisines
many cute sunset spots. It’s best
from underrepresented cultures to get a motorbike and cruise
here, and in such a polished
around—no spot is more than a
way. Order the Yemenite bread,
20-minute ride away. Speaking
fried goats-cheese pretzel as a photographer, I love Devil’s
and the boozy craft cocktails
Tear lookout point. The view
infused with Middle Eastern
of rugged cliffs and waves
spices. Looking back on my visit smashing and splashing around
to Tokyo with my parents, my
is amazing. It’s stunning for
favorite memory is the incred-
both sunrise and sunset light.”
ible omakase dinner at Trunk Instagram: @stephankotas.
House and the lovely connection
we made with the staff there.
We reminisce about them still.”
4 Instagram: @jenjusttravels.
7T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Christopher Kucway
DEPUTY EDITOR Jeninne Lee-St. John
FEATURES EDITOR Bek Van Vliet Owen
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D I G I TA L
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Kit Yeng Chan, Marco Ferrarese, Duncan Forgan, Jenny Hewett,
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Aaron Joel Santos, Scott A. Woodward, Stephanie Zubiri
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8 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
LETTER from the Editor
T HESE DAYS, EVERYONE SEEMS to be Friday night and time for some wok-fried noodles in Bangkok’s
asking where it is you want to visit Chinatown—at least at a socially acceptable distance.
once the dark clouds part—as soon as
CHRISTOPHER KUC WAY renewed domestic travel, led in our @CKucway FROM MY TRAVELS
region by Vietnam, Thailand and [email protected] Bangkok, like most locales
Indonesia, cautiously gives way to around the world, has
international journeys. been under lockdown for
It’s a tempting question but an obvious one. months now, though what
Perhaps an even more aspirational query would that means varies from
be how we want to travel. What are we going to place to place. In the Thai
do differently and why? With the travel industry capital, instead of using
essentially having hit a reset button, now is the public transit, I took the
chance for all of us to become more discerning chance to wander down
and, dare I say, idealistic. lanes that I’d never seen
before, drifting farther
Overcrowded beaches: out. Packed beer afield as restrictions
bars: don’t even think about it. More mindful lessened. That’s how I
travel is a recurring theme throughout this ended up in the city’s
Beaches + Islands issue. Think quiet eco-escapes Chinatown at dusk, as ever
and wellness experiences—an Asian specialty— the time when the streets
and trips that give back to the local community there come alive, albeit this
or fulfill your sense of purpose. evening with a few rules
remaining in place.
Writer Jenny Hewett ventured with her
parents to the capital of Japan to learn how this
modern megalopolis leans on time-honored
traditions, and “Once Upon a Time in Tokyo”
(page 74) reveals touchingly how meaningful the
trip was for each of them.
Clean and green destinations like Japan,
as well as New Zealand and Australia, remain
popular but there’s no reason we shouldn’t
demand similar, if not the same, environmental
consciousness at other locations around Asia.
Of course, Phuket will never be confused with
Tasmania, nor should it. But it can improve to
adapt to our new world.
Just off the well-worn trail that leads to Bali,
the main concerns at nearby Nusa Lembongan
(“In Balance,” page 66) are that the beach
loungers are oriented towards the west and the
setting sun—and that it maintains its low-profile
status as an eco-friendly getaway.
For more examples, turn to this month’s
Intelligent Traveler section (page 57), on how
to make your next beach trip more sustainable,
whether it’s via the clothes you wear, the
sunscreen you use or the resorts you book. It’s
an indispensible guide for beach breaks going
forward, and if there’s anything that we can all
agree upon at this moment it’s that we could all
use a few days lazing on some tropical sand.
9T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
www.silavadeeresort.com
COURTESY OF ONE ELEVEN GALLERY Discoveries
A G LO B E T R OT T E R ’ S GU I D E TO T H E L AT E ST I N T R AVE L
Old Town, New Inspiration
Veer off the archaeological trail to the art-gallery map and uncover some
of Siem Reap’s contemporary spoils. BY L AUREL TUOH Y
'Yindu Chin' by
Christian
Develter.
1 1T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
Clockwise from top: OneDISCOVERIES ROVING IT’S more than just a less tied to formal international training
Eleven Gallery; inside FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ONE ELEVEN GALLERY; COURTESY OF MIRAGE CONTEMPORARY ART SPACE; than Thailand’s.
Batia Sarem Gallery; COURTESY OF THE AM'S GALLERY; COURTESY OF BAT I A SAREM GALLERY P temple town, Siem Reap has lately
Theam at work in his blossomed into a happening Another place to catch emerging
gallery; at Mirage creative hub, where both locals and local talent is Mirage Contemporary Art
expats contribute to a burgeoning arts Space (mirage-collective.com). Director
Contemporary Art Space. scene. A number of independent art Serey Siv, a photographer himself,
spaces have sprung up around town— showcases a roster of Cambodian and
here we round up some top spots for a international artists in a newly
DIY Siem Reap art tour. renovated space. The gallery is on the
west side of the river, just a five-minute
A good place to start is One Eleven walk from the cool, kitschy artisanal
Gallery (oneelevengallery.com), which shops that make up Kandal Village—a
features both Khmer and international thriving bohemian district that’s a
artists covering diverse topics in a wide creative destination in its own right.
variety of styles and mediums. The
gallery’s position near Psar Chas, the No survey of the city’s art scene
“Old Market,” its late hours and a bar in would be complete without a visit to its
the back make it the perfect place to most famous contributor. Hop in a tuk
get your bearings, soak up the riverside tuk for the 10-minute ride to Theam’s
atmosphere and rub shoulders with Gallery (theamsgallery.com). Owned by
Siem Reap’s artsiest locals and expats. prolific local artist Lim Muy Theam, it’s
got to be one of the most beautiful art
One such local is prominent Belgian spaces in town—an expansive, colorful,
painter Christian Develter, whose “Chin antique-filled house packed with
Urban & Tribal” series oil paintings Theam’s own paintings, photography
hang at One Eleven, not to mention on and sculptures. Theam trains up-and-
the walls of the city’s coolest hotels and coming artists, who can be seen in the
cafés. To see more of Develter’s original property’s workshop; he also invites
paintings and lithographs, head to the guests to learn about Khmer arts and
newly opened One Eleven Develter, crafts by viewing his own private
dedicated solely to his works, just collection. Finish up your tour with
across the river in Psar Chas market. coffee and ice-cream in Theam’s
shaded tropical garden.
With a focus on Khmer talent, the
French-run Batia Sarem Gallery While it’s perfectly easy to explore
(batiasarem.com), a 10-minute walk Siem Reap without a private guide, if
south of One Eleven, provides a you need advice on buying art or have
platform exclusively for local artists. limited time, operators like Siem Reap
The goods here reflect “the spontaneity Art Tours (siemreaparttours.com; tours
and dynamism” of the local scene, as from US$95) can bring you on a
the gallery’s director, Martin Phéline, bespoke loop around the town’s studios
puts it, celebrating art less bound by in half a day.
censorship than that of Vietnam and
12 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
From top: Catch Stone-Cold Cool mortar and pestle tools are said to have
some rays in the been born.
Sky Pool; pared- A minimalist all-villa retreat brings a sprinkling of class to
the outskirts of Pattaya. BY V E RONICA IN V EEN Throughout the multi-tiered,
back chic in a Gulf-of-Thailand–facing resort, there’s a
Beachfront Grand E SO DESPER ATELY want to love Pattaya. It’s the closest three-element design aesthetic of
wood, glass and natural light to
pool villa; Zila W and easiest beach destination from Bangkok, and sits on complement the stone. Scandinavian
Street Bistro & Bar a chunk of coastline that sees some of the best sunsets minimalism meets Japanese Zen with
in Central Thailand. But the city comes with baggage. Girly polished wood floors and furniture, loft
views; peep the bars and dodgy back streets have brought a reputation that’s ceilings, rough-cut granite fixtures and
garden from your hard to scrub clean. It’s not all a bust, though; bypass the main diffused lighting. Sun-drenched terraces
drag for the golden beaches of Sattahip District, and you’ll find and private plunge pools are standard
bathroom. the ultra-modern, ultra-quiet pool villas of Mason Pattaya in all five villa types, so even though
(masonpattaya.com; doubles from Bt26,000). there’s a 12-meter Sky Pool at the
C O U RT E SY O F M A S O N PAT TAYA ( 4 ) center of the hotel and a stretch of
Descriptors like “sleek,” “stylishly minimal,” and clean beach out front, you might find
“luxurious” are not often applicable to Pattaya, but Mason, yourself villa-bound more often than
which opened in January, happily defies the city’s not. Still, Zila Street Bistro & Bar, the
stereotypes. Its 35 concrete-cube villas were designed by hotel’s main eatery, adjacent to the Sky
Bangkok-based studio VaSLab in a neo-Brutalist style that Pool, is a decidedly tempting parking
boldly contrasts against the lush seaside surroundings of spot come sundown—and their local
quiet Na Jomtien beach. These angular, monolithic structures calamari is a great cocktail companion.
are an ode to Thai masonry, in particular the stone carvers of
nearby Ang Sila Village, where the country’s ubiquitous stone With a highly swimmable beach
(unlike those of other go-to getaway
Hua Hin) and a crowd that’s more your
hip, in-the-know Bangkokian than your
bawdy, sunburnt boozehound, Mason is
a cool antidote to everything Pattaya—
and makes a compelling case for a
quick city escape.
1 3T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
DISCOVERIES From left: Hunker down
FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF SALA PHUKET; COURTESY OF RADISSON BLU RESORTin a two-bedroom
Presidential Pool Villa at
Sala Phuket Mai Khao;
Radisson Blu’s
Himalayan–salt chamber.
Exclusive T+L Reader Specials the day spa and gym (including a
Himalayan-salt chamber and therapeutic
If ever there were a perfect time to plan some travel, it’s now. Get your much- baths); late checkout; Wi-Fi; and
anticipated holiday underway with one of our sweet deals, only for T+L readers. complimentary non-alcoholic minibar.
T+L readers also receive a free
Tanah Gajah, a Resort by Hadiprana, Wi-Fi and more. Rates begin from meditation session or a healthy-lifestyle
Indonesia US$940 for three nights. Quote cooking consultation with one of the
Dust off the quarantine cobwebs with a “TLDEAL20” when you book. resort’s chefs. From US$175 per night;
luxury villa stay in Bali. Tanah Gajah, tanahgajahubud.com quote “T+L” when booking. Valid until the
rebranded from The Chedi Club, plunks end of 2020. radissonhotels.com
you amid Ubud’s wavy rice paddies in Radisson Blu Resort Cam Ranh, Vietnam
spaces dotted with the owner’s private This new resort on the coast of Cam Villa de Pranakorn, Bangkok, Thailand
art collection. This readers-only perk Ranh might have a host of kid-friendly Take a wander through Bangkok history
entails a complimentary room upgrade facilities, but it’s just as primed for with a staycation in the Old Town at this
when you book Tanah Gadjah’s “Third couples’ travel. A special deal from Relais & Chateaux boutique. Villa de
Night on Us” deal, moving you up from a Radisson Blu wraps up the resort’s Pranakorn is offering T+L readers a two-
suite to a One-Bedroom Club villa. The wellness features in the Relaxation night package for US$400, which
deal comes with all the club Package: Deluxe room accommodation; includes Superior room accommodation,
accoutrements: personal butler service, daily Healthy Breakfast options; either a daily breakfast and a signature set
daily breakfast, afternoon tea and 60-minute body massage or a sports dinner for two. Quote “Readers” when
sunset cocktails, comped daily minibar, activity per person per day; access to booking direct. Call 66-2/221-1122 or
e-mail [email protected].
Valid until the end of this year.
villadepranakorn.com
Santiburi Koh Samui, Thailand
Swap isolation blues for azure seas with
a special deal from Santiburi. The resort,
spread across a 9-hectare tropical
garden, faces a quiet, perfect-for-
swimming stretch of coastline. Get 25
percent off the published rate starting
from Bt5,200 for a Duplex villa, inclusive
of breakfast for two. T+L readers using
the code “SEA20” when booking will
receive a complimentary sunset drink
and half-price round-trip airport
transfers. The deal can be booked until
August 2020, valid for stays until
December 25, 2020, and is only available
through the website. santiburisamui.com
14 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF SANTIBURI KOH SAMUI; COURTESY OF PIMALAI RESORT & SPA; Pimalai Resort & Spa, Koh Lanta, Thailand per night in a Superior bungalow. Book via Clockwise from top left:
COURTESY OF VILLA DE PRANAKORN; COURTESY OF PHI PHI ISLAND VILLAGE BEACH RESORT Remote yet accessible, Pimalai Resort & telephone on 66-75/628-900-99 or email Santiburi; poolside fine
Spa on Koh Lanta’s Kantiang Bay gives [email protected] dining at Pimalai Resort
you castaway vibes just a 2½-hour drive and quote the promo code “T+L20.” The & Spa; inside Villa de
from Krabi International Airport. The offer is valid until October 31, 2020. Pranakorn, Bangkok;
resort hugs a hillside above an idyllic phiphiislandvillage.com Phi Phi Island Village
crescent of sand on the island’s southern Beach Resort.
end, removed from the more populated Sala Phuket Mai Khao Beach Resort,
shores of Klong Dao. Pimalai’s Three- Thailand
Night Package includes accommodation, Spread out in a family-sized villa with an
airport transfer, daily breakfast, a Thai 11-kilometer stretch of beach on your
set dinner, a Surf and Turf BBQ and a front doorstep. Sala’s Suite Escape
60-minute aromatherapy massage for Package gives you all the personal space
two. Quote “T+L Reader” upon booking to you could want on one of Phuket’s
enjoy a complimentary room upgrade quietest coastlines. The package
(subject to availability). Packages start includes three nights’ accommodation in
from Bt15,145 for three nights; email a Two-Bedroom Presidential Pool Villa
[email protected] or call suite with its own 38-square-meter pool
66-2/320-5500 to make a booking. and standalone en suite bedrooms for
pimalai.com maximum privacy. Also included in the
deal is daily champagne breakfast; one
Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort, in-villa starlight-cinema night with
Thailand snacks; one in-villa steak and seafood
A stint in blissful Phang Nga Bay ought to barbecue; one in-villa Thai cooking class;
melt away the boredom of house arrest. a 90-minute in-villa massage and round-
This deal from Phi Phi Island Village trip airport transfers. Quote “T+L” upon
Beach Resort gives T+L readers a room booking for a complimentary bottle of
upgrade and a complimentary afternoon sparkling wine. The package is Bt60,000
tea for two with any booking of at least for three nights, maximum four guests,
three nights. Rates start from Bt5,000 bookable via reservations@salaphuket.
com. salahospitality.com
Avani+ Hua Hin Resort, Thailand
If you're based in Bangkok, a beach
staycation is never far away thanks to
the ever-popular Hua Hin. Thailand’s
pretty royal resort town wins for chilled
seaside vibes, market shopping, fresh
seafood feasts and summer palace
tours. Only a 2½-hour drive from the
capital, it's an easy destination for an
extended weekend. Avani+ Hua Hin
Resort is offering an enticing “Stay 3 Pay
2” package that includes access to the
AvaniCLUB executive lounge, daily
breakfast and daily afternoon tea. For
an extra perk, quote the code “Travel +
Leisure” and redeem a complimentary
dinner for two at beachfront Brezza.
Rates start from Bt6,999 per night.
avanihotels.com
1 5T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
T R AV E L + L E I S U R E
T R AVE L E R S ’ TAL E S , F R O M N E A R A N D FAR
IT’S ALWAYS
SUNNY IN
AHANGAMA
On the south coast of Sri Lanka
a sleepy surf town will have you
pondering a sea change.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY
CHRIS SCHALKX
A signature
A-frame
cabana at
Palm.
1 9T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
ON THE RISE W ITH PALM TREES shooting from the
earth like daytime fireworks, year-
round balmy weather, and the Indian
Ocean licking its craggy coastlines and
caramel-colored beaches, the south of
Sri Lanka has all the trimmings of a
paradisiacal hideaway. But it’s no
longer the secret hippie commune it once was.
Now, 300-plus-room resorts have cropped up on
its shores and gift shops line the road from
Unawatuna to Matara.
Ahangama, however, a small village just 40
minutes east of Galle, has been spared. Despite
the influx of surfers, yogis and Crossfitters settling
down in its terracotta-roofed villas, it still feels
like a dusty, palm-fringed little secret. Roti shops,
not souvenir stores, still line the coastal road, and
the air is perfumed with dried fish and frangipani.
In-the-know expats have long kept it for
themselves, but things are finally starting to buzz
now that a slew of boutique hotels has opened.
In 2017, Australians Phoebe Taylor and Seddy
Di Francesco were among the first to found a
boutique stay in this sleepy village. Taking over a
colonial villa in a quiet alley off Ahangama’s busy
coastal road, their homestay The Kip
(thekipsrilanka.com; doubles from Rs11,500) was,
in their words, “a way to inspire and bring
together a community.” And they did. Over the
past three years, The Kip has become almost
Clockwise from top
left: A glimpse of the
past in Ahangama;
Palm's no-fuss
interiors; a flowery
entrance at The Kip.
20 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
synonymous with Ahangama’s laid-back, clean- Clockwise from top left:
eating, digital nomad-y lifestyle. It attracts Coconut roti with honey
travelers and expats from nearby surf towns in at Palm; The Kip’s breezy
droves for its candle-lit suppers and brunches of lobby; Colombo sights;
(mostly) vegan tapas, using ingredients from Miriam Haniffa of Palm;
sustainable, local sources—as local as the vegetable welcome to The Kip.
patch in their backyard. I pick up some house-
made jams in their new ethical and eco-minded 2 1T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
corner store, where nut milks and low-waste
toiletries are also available. If you plan to stay, the
four airy bedrooms are cozy all-white affairs with
rattan furniture and handwoven linen.
Further inland, a bone-shaking tuk tuk ride
past rainbow-like fruit stalls and lush rice paddies
brings me to Palm (palmhotelsrilanka.com;
doubles from Rs20,000), the latest addition to
Ahangama’s flourishing hotel scene. “We were
looking for somewhere that still felt relatively
untouched by tourism and time,” says owner
Miriam Haniffa, who left behind a tech career in
London to rediscover her Sri Lankan roots.
Together with husband Laurie Spencer and their
two lovely little girls in tow, she set up six A-frame
cabanas in a coconut grove flanked by wild jungle.
“The stunning beaches and near-deserted coves
were obviously a huge draw,” she tells me, “but it
was the inland scenery that we really fell in love
with here… we could see so much potential for
creating a secluded hideaway that really showed
off this stunning setting.”
Design inspiration came from East London’s
industrial warehouses; steel shipping containers
were transformed into a semi-open central
pavilion with design riffing on Brutalist
architecture (lots of black corrugated steel,
polished concrete and huge black-frame windows),
given a tropical touch with roll-up bamboo shades
ON THE RISE
Clockwise from top and rattan furnishings. The pavilion also houses a
left: On the beach kitchen where days start with honey-topped
coconut roti and end with Sri Lankan fusion food
at Ahangama; a feast at like buffalo milk gnudi (little gnocchi-like
Maria Bonita; Sri Lankan dumplings) and moreish egg curry with string
hoppers. As the night falls and I doze off after one
tea fields; drinks at too many arrack-spiked cocktails at the pool, I’m
Abode; retro details at lulled to sleep by the distant squawks of wild
peacocks and the sound of monkeys rustling
the boutique hotel. through the trees above my open-air bathroom.
I’m starting to understand Ahangama’s magic.
22 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
Some lazy pool days later, I set out for a change
of scenery. Slightly closer to the beach I find
Abode Ahangama (abodeboutiquehotels.com;
doubles from Rs13,500), the new Sri Lankan sister
property of Abode Bombay, a boutique bolt-hole
in Mumbai’s hip Colaba district, beloved by the
fashion set for its eclectic interiors and local
touches. The Ahangama outpost ticks the same
quirky boxes: furniture from reclaimed wood,
colorful textiles from north India, and an array of
artsy keepsakes. With just four rooms spread over
a whitewashed 1950s-era Art Deco–style villa
surrounded by a lush garden and swaying palm
trees, it feels more like a private residence than a
hotel. Pool-lolling is the name of the game here,
too (and I faithfully indulge), but Abode’s spot just
minutes from the shore also calls for explorations
around town. Their handy printed guide directs
me down tiny pathways ending at abandoned
stretches of sand and sun-drenched swirling
backstreets where curry shops alternate with yoga
shalas and grazing buffaloes.
“People stay longer and don’t come here for
the parties like in Mirissa and Weligama,” says
Cristina Rodriguez Cruz. “It’s more grown-up.”
The Barcelona-born former flight attendant spent
the last two years hopping around the south coast
but was ultimately drawn to Ahangama’s relaxed
atmosphere. At her new café/B&B, Maria Bonita
(mariabonitasrilanka.com; doubles from Rs6,000),
tucked away behind Ahangama’s bus station, we
drink watermelon smoothies and feast on tangy
cauliflower tacos and hummus-topped salad
bowls—all vegan, of course—then set off for some
toes-in-the-sand time at the beach just beyond.
At sunset, I mingle with more nine-to-five
escapees at blissed-out beach bar Driftwood, on a
cove where stilt fishers maintain the tradition of
waiting for their catch each night. Opened by a
French-Indian couple who tired of their hectic
careers in New York City’s fashion industry, the
boho-chic lounge (swaying bamboo lanterns, sisal
rugs, macramé wall hangings) boosts the town’s
F&B offerings with their French tartines and
charcuterie platters, which were almost impossible
to find before these guys opened their cocooning
sleeping-and-eating compound, Illusion Cove
(illusionlanka.com).
While sipping cucumber gimlets from
Colombo-made gin and watching the sky turn
from pale orange to peachy pink, I can easily see
why people have a hard time moving on from this
lo-fi little town. From the conversations I had, it
became clear that the community works hard to
keep Ahangama in the slow lane. Thinking back to
the late-afternoon strolls through its dusty
backstreets, ogling beautifully weathered villas
with overgrown gardens, my mind wanders off
into a hazy daydream. A fixer-upper would be fun?
I could take up surfing? Dozens have settled here
before me—I might just join them.
Clockwise from top:
The pool at Abode;
the day's catch at
Ahangama market;
traditional stilt
fishers outside
Driftwood; a room
at Maria Bonita.
2 3T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
LONG WEEKEND BRISBANE’S
FRESH FACE
A flourish of hip new hotels, dining
spots and micro-bars sees Queensland’s
once-dismissed capital on course to
become one of Australia’s coolest cities.
BY JENNY HEWETT
I T’S NOWHERE near after dark when I
rock up to a converted warehouse in
Brisbane’s once-gritty nightlife ’hood of
Fortitude Valley for a drink. At midday the
scene here feels wholesomely irreverent,
even in its urban context. A vintage wine
press in the courtyard has attracted a
crowd, watching curiously as fermented grape juice
pours out of taps into vats below. Farther inside,
lunchers natter over glasses of Grenache and plates
of roasted organic Wagyu beef. “Today, we’re
pressing Fiano,” says Kris Cush of the working
inner-city micro-winery and wine-bar City Winery,
which she runs with her enologist husband Dave.
Fiano, a classical vine originally from southern Italy,
is among the unusual grapes the couple sources
from across Australia to turn into wine here in what
was once the seedy underbelly of this subtropical
city. “We had this idea to bring the winemaker to
the people,” she says, reaching for a bottle.
Clockwise from top:
Zipping around the city;
the skyline over the
Brisbane River; Hellenika
poolside yums.
24 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
CLO C KW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: SE AN FENNES SY/COURT ESY OF THE CAL ILE; COURTESY OF CI T Y W INERY; SE AN FENNES SY/COURTESY OF THE CAL ILE; COURTESY OF CI T Y W INERY. In what seems like a parallel having an annual average of “300 days of sunshine Clockwise from top left:
OPP OSI TE, CLO CKW ISE FROM TOP : NATHAN SALT; COURTESY OF TE AM BLM; COURTESY OF HELLENIK A BRISBANE evolutionary process, over the last few a year,” as the tourism board likes to tout, Brisbane Pretty in pink at The
years, Brisbane has been undergoing its lacks the enviable beaches that many of its sister Calile; wine meets
own metamorphosis. Despite being cities around the country so proudly flaunt. But charcuterie at City
only half the size of Sydney or after checking into one of the town’s newest Winery; poolside at The
Melbourne, with a population of boutique stays, The Calile, I couldn’t care less Calile; day drinking at
slightly more than 2.5 million, about the surf scene. City Winery.
Queensland’s “big country town”
capital is emerging as a cool and With its warm, luminous palette of sandy
cultured hub with a sprinkling of new beige, blush, dusky rose and gold, complemented
boutique urban resorts and a thriving with cooler accents of jade and sage, this urban
arts, dining and rooftop-bar scene. The resort gets it right on just about every level. A
A$71-million redevelopment of the gilded-seeming, yellow butterfly dances past my
heritage-listed Howard Smith Wharves, face as I float alongside the pool cabanas in the Art
now an entertainment and lifestyle Deco–inspired rooftop pool later that afternoon.
precinct, and the gentrification of Even the insects are glowing at this glam oasis in
Brisbane’s inner-city suburbs, including The Valley, which opened the end of 2018—one in
Fortitude Valley AKA “the Valley,” New a series of new boutique hotels adding oomph to
Farm and West End, has revived the the city. In my room, curved niches, orb-like bulbs
city into a rad riverside metropolis with and rose-marble tabletops set a contemporary-
plenty of personality. meets-retro tone. I’m particularly impressed with
the tasteful in-built gold-brushed taps dispensing
But it wasn’t always so. As is the complimentary water in the hall of each level.
case with many of my fellow Aussies,
the term “Brisvegas” has been In fact, every aspect of this urban resort is
ingrained in my native vernacular since carefully considered, from the stylish linen staff
I was old enough to speak slang. uniforms designed by Aussie label Bassike to the
Admittedly, I never quite understood color-coordinated, pale-pink taramosalata salmon-
why we considered Australia’s roe dip at the hotel’s upmarket Greek restaurant
third-largest city to be a dupe. Further Hellenika. My meal of Greek salad, chicken livers
research suggests that the nickname and French Chablis is made all the more
was coined in rebuttal to the city’s memorable by the French head waiter who has
non-existent nightlife, but it has little seen that I’m dining solo and shows a genuine
leg to stand on these days. Brisbane is interest in making me feel comfortable.
far from bland; in fact, it’s buzzing. And
most refreshingly, this balmy city is not The next morning I set out to explore The
trying to be anything but itself. Central Valley on foot. What I begin to notice about this
to this is its willingness to own its revamped neighborhood is a collective mood
downfalls, one of which seems among locals to embrace and portray Australian
downright “un-Australian.” Despite culture in original and nuanced ways. Under a
leafy canopy of fig trees, the upmarket James
Street precinct has one of the best concentrations
2 5T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
LONG WEEKEND From left: The STAY
CLO CKW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: COURTESY OF THE FANTAUZ ZO; COURTESY OF NOD O; COURTESY OF Z A Z A TAFantauzzo; gluten-freeThe Calile
goodness from Nodo Laidback luxe urban
Donuts; Za Za Ta at resort with a rooftop
Ovolo hotel. pool, cabanas and subtle
interiors in the heart of
of high-end Australian designers I’ve come across, It’s time for a change of scene and The Valley. thecalilehotel.
including Camilla, Zimmermann, and Scanlan & so the next morning I check into the com; doubles from A$190.
Theodore. On the culinary front, quintessentially new Art Series Hotel, The Fantauzzo, The Fantauzzo
Queensland produce such as macadamia nuts and which opened last year at Howard A cliffside hotel with
avocado shine in inventive creations (frozen bowl Smith Wharves. It has more of a stunning river views and
with macadamia granola; crushed avo on a black business feel, but boasts superior views artworks by Australian
sesame loaf with baby citrus and goat-milk feta) at of the Brisbane River and the iconic artist Vincent Fantauzzo.
Nodo Donuts in nearby Newstead at breakfast. Story Bridge, plus a plethora of dining artserieshotels.com.au;
options literally on the doorstep. The doubles from A$154
“When the sun goes down and the lights go up, cliffside hotel makes a great base for
The Valley has a very different feel,” says Lee- exploring Brisbane’s laneways, EAT + DRINK
Anne Harris, director of Walk Brisbane, as she something that I’ve been oblivious to City Winery
guides me to her favorite secret drinking spots until now. So the next day, I take Inner-city micro winery
later that night. Craft breweries are trending advantage of one of Brisbane’s free with tastings, cheese
worldwide, but the crew behind Soapbox Brewery walking tours. As we wander up boards and modern
is onto something clever. The brainchild of two Burnett Lane, giant murals on one side, Australian cuisine.
“backyard brewers” who quit their day jobs to pavement artworks and small bars on citywinery.com.au;
pursue their passion, this brewpub in the heart of the other, I begin to realize the death of lunch for two from A$70.
The Valley is best known for its Biscuit Ale. “Brisvegas” as I thought I knew it. Hey, Hellenika
Inspired by the Iced Vovo, a beloved Australian River City, you’re all right. I see you. Home-style Greek dishes
pink-frosted and coconut-sprinkled biscuit, the of taramasalata and
beverage has been so popular that they’re saganaki served poolside.
struggling to keep up with demand. “We did it as hellenika.com.au; dinner
an opening beer and it sold out very quickly,” says for two from A$70.
co-owner Scott Robertson. Honto
Sleek Japanese fine-
The next minute, we’re off the main strip and diner and whisky bar with
walking down a dark and dingy cul-de-sac. Just moody, all-black interiors.
when I begin to wonder if Lee-Anne is lost, she honto.com.au; dinner for
pushes open a nondescript door to reveal a dark, two from A$80.
black-on-black interior with low lighting and the Nodo Donuts
most enticing aromas. This is Honto, Brisbane’s Serves gluten-free donuts
newest Japanese fine-dining boasting one hat. and healthy breakfast
Self-confessed whisky nerd and bartender Aidan eats. nododonuts.com;
claims its adjoining XO Bar has the biggest breakfast for two from
collection of Japanese whisky in Australia. That’s A$30.
up for debate, but one thing is certain: order the Yoko Dining
lobster katsu of panko shellfish between slices of Energetic Japanese
crust-less milk bread and you won’t regret it. izakaya on the Howard
Smith Wharves.
yokodining.com.au;
dinner for two from A$80.
Za Za Ta
Modern Tel Aviv–inspired
eatery serving Yemenite
bread and grilled lamb.
ovolohotels.com; dinner
for two from A$90.
DO
Walk Brisbane
Get your bearings with
a guided walking tour
themed on arts, cafés,
drinking and more.
walkbrisbane.com; tours
from A$60. —J.H.
26 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
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JOIN THE CLUBAFTER HOURS
COURTESY OF SEEN. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF SEEN; COURTESY OF MELIA KOH SAMUI; BEK VAN VLIET OWEN
Put your hands up in the air for a
summery resurgence of beach-club
culture on glitzier-by-the-minute
Koh Samui. BY B E K VA N V L I E T OW E N
A peachy view
from the decks
of Seen Beach
Club Samui.
28 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
Clockwise from top A DMIRING BOAT-FLECKED BEACH SCENE STEALERS
left: Hammocks Bophut Bay, cocktail
condensing down my arm, Inhabiting its own kaleidoscopic
overlook the pool at there’s space to meditate on bubble on Chaweng Beach, Seen Beach
Seen; Melia Koh how great it is to get Club Samui (seenbeachclubsamui.
intoxicated on the beach. com) has strutted into place with a
Samui's main pool; Left of frame the sun funky retro drive-in look and every
the Seen philosophy; completes its westward arc in a burst square centimeter begging to be
of orange and violet, the air fills with Instagrammed. Its centerpiece pool is
archways at Sala. mellifluous house tunes from the DJ unparalleled for people-watching as
and my brain bobs gently in a sea patrons wade and preen in its shallows
of dopamine. like exotic birds at the world’s bluest
watering hole. Shy types can use the
On Samui, already home to many smaller, less visible-from-every-angle
of the fanciest hotels, some chic new pool, or claim a lounger on the sand.
beach clubs and bars set down on the
shores just before lockdown. Call it a The club’s tagline is “Sin and Be
Balification pivot for the cashed-up Seen,” but the daytime energy is firmly
designer-sandaled travelers who alight G-rated. Kids chow down on pizza and
to postcard weather here 10 months ice cream in the open-air diner; cute
of the year. And now that the island is couples fan out on daybeds, sipping
open again—with added emphasis on cocktails and making TikToks; and the
whistle-clean, open-air venues—it’s the music hovers at a “chillaxing” level.
perfect time to take a whirl through the As afternoons wax golden, things heat
newest, coolest, eye-candiest additions. up, with live sax, bongos and an up-
for-it vibe. Dine à la carte or reserve
2 9T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
AFTER HOURS Clockwise from top
CLO CKW ISE FROM TOP LEF T: COURTESY OF CHI BE ACH BAR AND RESTAURANT;left: Healthy
COURTESY OF MEL I A KOH SAMUI; COURTESY OF CHI BE ACH BAR AND RESTAURANT (2)libations at Chi;
beachfront dining at
Melia Koh Samui; a
blue outlook from
the loungers at Chi;
afloat on Chi’s
infinity pool.
a daybed with a minimum spend of Daybeds here come with a Bt1,000 friendly slide within a straight shot of
Bt2,000—check the website for their minimum spend. If you like Chi the its swim-up bar—surely no coincidence.
scheduled events in 2020. beach club you might also be a fan of
Chi Residence (chisamuiresidence.com; A full renovation of the old Imperial
On the more dialed-down end of doubles from Bt8,500, minimum three Boat Hotel, Melia has retained the
the spectrum is Chi Beach Bar and nights), another newcomer from 2019. original’s adorable suites made of real
Restaurant (chisamui.com) on Bangrak The low-rise block of white-and-tan wooden boats and refurbed them
Beach. It’s smaller than Seen, and two-bedroom apartments is across with yacht-style deck hammocks and
minimalist in style, with just a few rows Samui’s ring road from the club, a luxurious downstairs bathrooms. Most
of loungers and sunbeds overlooking perfect little nest for families or groups, are romantically cloistered away in
its 25-meter topaz-hued infinity pool. with its own 25-meter saltwater pool. gardens. There’s also a kids’ club in its
Friends chat animatedly around the own converted boat and an additional
swim-up bar, breaking off occasionally SWISH NEW STAYS WITH lagoon pool for them by the beach.
to stare at the bay. Families drift on
bean bags in the pool. Every now BEACHFRONT BARS Staying with a Spanish brand, you
and then someone will hop on one of can expect a reasonable focus on earthly
the swings for a photoshoot. It’s an Spanish mega-brand Melia has just pleasures like all-day wining and dining,
appealing place to plop down for the launched Melia Koh Samui (melia.com; which is deftly handled by the indoor/
day, grazing on seafood platters and doubles from Bt6,200) on Choeng outdoor farm-to-table Breeza Beach
sipping while swimming. Mon Beach, a 10-minute drive from Restaurant and Bar. With a magical
the airport. While Samui’s not a huge fairy-lit ambience come nightfall, there’s
Turn up on Saturdays for a late, island, getting around it can prove little reason to peel yourself away—
boozy brunch or on Sundays for a expensive and stressful, so a central unless it’s to go back to the slide.
roast. Some nights you’ll catch a fire- location is a significant pro. Another
twirling show, a classic film screened major plus is the resort’s meandering Swiftly assuming the title of “it”
over the pool, or “Oysters & Sax.” loop pool, which comes with an adult- place on Samui is Sala Chaweng
(salahospitality.com; doubles from
30 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
SAMUI’S OLD FAITHFULS
You can’t have a conversation
about Samui beach soirees
without invoking the name
Coco Tam’s (fb.com/
CoCoTams). Taking up sandy
real estate on blissful Bophut
Beach, its wide deck and
beach chairs give you the best
seats in the house. We
recommend getting there
early in the evening to claim
your front-row beanbag to the
fire show—check their website
for times. If you haven’t eaten
on your way through nearby
Fisherman’s Village, Coco
Tam’s collab with Bangkok-
based Peppina gives you
Napoli-style wood-fired pizzas
to munch on.
For the young/ageless set,
Nikki Beach (koh-samui.
nikkibeach.com) in Lipa Noi on
the west coast of the island
remains a popular venue for
Sunday brunch—a spectacle
of dancers, DJ and sax sets,
bikini babes and buff bros, and
over-the-top service rituals.
Too “tired” to go home? Sleep
it off at Nikki Beach Resort &
Spa (doubles from Bt6,800).
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BEK VAN VLIET OWEN; COURTESY OF SEEN; Bt6,000). The second Sala on the Clockwise from top
BEK VAN VLIET OWEN; COURTESY OF SAL A CHAWENG; COURTESY OF MELIA KOH SAMUI island, this Chaweng property is, true left: On the way to
to brand, a total eye-pleaser. White, Sala’s spa; Seen’s
curvy architecture gives the place a retro signage; the
future-retro look that’s part Santorini, moon pool at Sala; a
part Space Odyssey, with a “moon scenic spot at The
pool” on the front lawn that doubles Tent; the entrance
down on the sci-fi feel. If you prefer to of Melia Koh Samui.
socially distance, many of the spacious,
sultry dens at Sala have their own
private pools—choose the Oceanfront
category to be close to the action. If
you’re in a group or are the lavish type,
book the beachfront 286-square-meter
two-bedroom Presidential Pool villa;
it’s kind of like having a miniature Sala
resort all to yourself.
No hip hotel would be complete
without a beachfront diner, and Sala’s
marquee-style The Tent is a pleasing
semi-posh venue with a mellow,
barefoot vibe. Get a table on the sand,
kick off your shoes, and let Happy Hour
do the rest.
AFTER HOURS Cape Fahn Silavadee Resort
FROM TOP : COURTESY OF CAPE FAHN HOTEL ; COURTESY OF CENTARA RESERVEhotel occupies Located on the tip of a
promontory on the eastern
two private edge of the island, this pool-
islands off villa resort boasts some of
Koh Samui. the best views on Samui. Stay
in an oceanfront villa for
WHERE TO STAY ON SAMUI 180-degree water views.
Break your travel drought with a Samui trip—check official hotel websites for resident and stay- silavadeeresort.com; doubles
later deals as properties reopen with special rates. from Bt5,000.
Anantara Lawana Koh Samui stays. On its own two mini InterContinental Koh Samui W Samui
Resort islands off Choeng Mon Resort One of the most photogenic—
Thai-style rooms and pool Beach, it’s hard to beat for This jungle-framed resort on and photographed—resorts
villas nestle in tropical privacy and pampering. Add southwest Taling Ngam Beach on the island, W Samui is a
gardens that cascade down in airy ocean-facing pool excels at family stays with perennially popular spot for
to a quiet stretch of Chaweng villas and a David Thompson Planet Trekker kids’ club and cocktails with its iconic
Beach, within close reach of restaurant and you have lots of perks for little ones. sunken lounges. Its 74 private
everything, yet in a world of something pretty close to Take off from its private pool villas aren’t bad, either,
their own. anantara.com; heaven. capefahnhotel.com; pier for tours of the National each with their own quirky W
doubles from Bt4,804. doubles from Bt12,200. Marine Park and Five Islands style. marriott.com; doubles
tours. ihg.com; doubles from from Bt14,800.
Avani+ Samui Resort Conrad Koh Samui Bt4,700.
This resort in southwest Crowd avoidance comes COMING SOON…
Samui puts you in a peaceful easily at this sprawling resort Renaissance Koh Samui Centara Reserve
nook of the island where its at the bottom of Samui. Resort & Spa The Centara Reserve brand
pre-tourism fishing-village Scattered in 10 hectares of On a headland to the north of will debut at the end of 2020
ways of life prevail. Isolate in remote hillside, villas start upmarket Lamai Beach, in a complete refurbishment
a beachfront private pool villa from 130 square meters, with Renaissance Koh Samui of the old Centara Grand on
and drop off the radar for a huge infinity pools and all the sequesters you away in Chaweng Beach. Expect an
while. avani.com; doubles modcons. conradhotels3. spacious rooms with terrace elegant new look across its
from Bt2,762. hilton.com; doubles from Jacuzzis and villas with 184 luxury rooms, pool suites
Bt16,500. private pools. There's a long and beachfront pool villas,
Banyan Tree Samui stretch of beach here with with a generous helping of
Turtle hatchlings aren’t the Four Seasons Resort Koh shallows that are perfect for Thai hospitality in the form of
only amazing things at this Samui tots. marriott.com; doubles the brand’s “Reserve Hosts,”
resort, though sustainability This top-end all-villa resort from Bt8,800. which provide butler service
is a top priority. Villas perch snuggles the prime northwest to all suites and villas.
high above the waterline, corner of the island, Santiburi centarahotelsresorts.com
giving you your own private bestowing showstopping Private villas dot lush gardens
pool with far-reaching Gulf views at all times. Hop from abutting the pristine sands of The Hyatt Regency
views. banyantree.com; the seaward muay Thai ring to Mae Nam Beach. When you’re The first Hyatt hotel to arrive
doubles from Bt16,411. the forested spa; on the done idling by the pool or the on Samui is scheduled to
private beach, the rare-bottle bay, perfect your swing at open in December 2020. Its
Cape Fahn rum vault helps fuel the all- Santiburi Golf Course. 140 rooms, suites, plunge-
This SLH property is one of day lounge. fourseasons. santiburisamui.com; doubles pool rooms and pool villas will
the island’s most exclusive com; doubles from Bt22,500. from Bt8,954. claim a quiet crescent of
sand on the northeast coast
of Bophut district in a tranquil
three-hectare plot. Fancy a
dip? The resort wil have not
one, but four pools plus a
waterfall. hyatt.com
A guest room at
Centara Reserve.
32 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
DAY T R I P S HEAD FOR THE HILLS
COURTESY OF TRAILADVENTOURS (3)
When urban living gets claustrophic, there’s nothing
like a hike to lift the spirits. STEPHANIE ZUBIRI
explores the peaks around Metro Manila.
34 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
From left: Getting T HE ALARM GOES OFF at 1:30 a.m. on a Saturday.
away from it all on Usually if I’m up at this time, it’s because I’m still
Mount Batulao; prowling the bar scene. Today is different. We
Cody Sarreal, of have a 2 a.m. meet with other people crazy
Trail Adventours; enough to wake from slumber at this ungodly
the 4x4 trail ride to hour. The glaring neon lights of a 24-hour Mickey
Mount Pinatubo. D’s jolt me to full consciousness as I meet the rest
of the group, all decked out with the appropriate gear—
hiking shoes, day packs and water bottles—and all
surprisingly chirpy. We hop into our cars and in the dead
of the night set off on the roughly two-hour drive to
adjacent Rizal province.
It’s pitch black when we reached our destination at the
foot of Mount Hapunang Banoi. Armed with flashlights and
headlamps, we snake through a small village and start a
steep climb. It rained last night and our feet sink deep into
mud. The makeshift steps are mossy, wet and treacherous.
Halfway into the climb, hot and humid, we pause at a rest
area to take a breath. As dawn breaks, the sky slowly morphs
from ominous indigo to promising periwinkle, brightening
as we continue our ascent. As we scramble across jagged
limestone formations the trek turns into a rock climb;
gripping with gloved hands—at times for dear life—we finally
reach the peak.
Nothing is more satisfying than having truly scaled a
mountain. While the view of the Sierra Madre range and
neighboring countryside is breathtaking, I’m just as elated at
the sense of accomplishment that comes with the exercise—
stepping out of my comfort zone, pushing my physical and
mental boundaries, and arriving at a place of peace that only
nature can bring.
3 5T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
DAY T R I P S From top: Fancy a When one lives in a true
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF TRAILADVENTOURS (5)dip after scaling megalopolis like Manila, there is a
Mount Daraitan?; on desperate need to escape the urban
the way up Mount jungle. Fortunately, just a relatively
Pinatubo; the Laiban short drive away, there are hiking trails
Circuit is an all- through resplendent nature that offer
terrain challenge. respite and nourishment for the mind,
body and soul.
36 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
“The nature around Metro Manila is
very diverse and real; just being in it
immediately fills you with positive
energy,” says Cody Sarreal, co-founder
of local hiking outfit Trail Adventours
(trailadventours.com; tours from P1,500
per person). The Manila native started
hiking at the age of eight with his
father and brothers, and has since
scaled all of the Philippines’ main
peaks. His favorite is Mount Kanlaon in
the Visayas, an active volcano with “a
wide-open scree trail that feels like
you’re on Mars. Once you’ve reached
the caldera, you can see the mouth of
the volcano below, daunting and
exciting.” For your next escape from
the city, here are five more of his top
hikes just outside of Metro Manila.
1. MOUNT NAGSASA, ZAMBALES
“Who wouldn’t love a day hike to a
peak overlooking the sea?” The peak in
question, known to locals as Mount
Bira-Bira, is three hours from the city.
It takes around four hours from base to
mountaintop, but you can make it a
longer summit-to-sea experience by
descending to Nagsasa Cove, where you
can cap off a sweaty hike with a
refreshing dip in the ocean. The hike is
suitable for beginners.
2. MOUNT DARAITAN, RIZAL
“If you’re up for a quick yet challenging
hike, Mount Daraitan is highly
recommended,” Sarreal says. Located
in Tanay, Rizal, two hours from Manila,
this mountain offers a scenic view of
the tropical forest of the Sierra Madre
and the natural architecture of its
limestone boulders and white marble
stones. After a challenging hike,
Tinipak River at the foot of the
mountain is the perfect place to cool
off, as it’s considered the cleanest river
in the Calabarzon Region. Great for
intermediate hikers; a guide is required.
Mount Luzon Island
Pinatubo,
Tarlac Manila The Laiban
Circuit, Rizal
Mount
Nagsasa, Mount
Zambales Daraitan,
Rizal
3. MOUNT PINATUBO, TARLAC From top: Alluring Mount
cove views from Batulao,
This stratovolcano had a major eruption in 1991, but is now Mount Nagsasa; Batangas
one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Metro Pinatubo crater
Manila. Its major attraction is a color-morphing crater lake lake, inside the DIVING ESCAPES
that changes from green to turquoise blue depending on the volcano's caldera. If you prefer sub-sea level
weather. An adventure here starts with a 4x4 ride through adventures, Manila is also a
lahar, or mudflow, formations, and ends with a beginner- stone’s throw from Anilao,
friendly hike to the crater. Sarreal adds: “You might also have Batangas. Known for macro
a chance to interact with the Aetas, who are known to be dive photography, its reefs
among the first inhabitants of the Philippines.” are full of colorful
nudibranchs, anemone,
4. MOUNT BATULAO, BATANGAS barrel sponges, cuttlefish,
seahorses and the like. There
Mount Batulao is one of the first mountains that opened for are also turtles, octopi and
hiking tourism. It’s no surprise—its rolling slopes and cool for the more experienced
weather make it easily accessible for first timers, and its divers a chance to see
360-degree summit view gives it all-round appeal. Fun fact: barracudas, bluefin tuna and
the name Batulao comes from the phenomenon bato sa ilaw, reef sharks at the deeper
which translates to ‘a light between two rocks,’ which refers sites, and those with
to the sun setting between the two peaks of Mount Batulao, stronger currents such as
which occurs at the end of every year. Mainit Point. There are
several resorts along the
5. LAIBAN CIRCUIT, RIZAL coastline, including La
Chevrerie (lachevrerie-
This destination offers a wide range of experiences, from resorts.com; doubles from
trekking in a tropical forest to climbing along limestone rocks P11,000), a quirky five-star
to dipping in waterfalls. The circuit is located in picturesque with top-notch dive center
Tanay, Rizal, so you'll want to grab this opportunity to ride on with Mares branded gear,
top of the jeepney during the drive to the jump-off point. “If and Acacia Resort and Dive
you trek before sunrise, you’ll have the chance to catch a sea Center (acaciadive.com;
of clouds from the summit,” Sarreal says. He gives it a three P5,570), one of the best dive
out of 10 for difficulty, suitable for beginners. centers in the area with
experienced dive masters,
ILLUSTRAT ION BY PHE TMAYSA NOKLEK well-maintained gear and a
large pool that can
accommodate training and
refresher courses.
3 7T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
DAY T R I P S WHERE TO STAY IN MANILA
FROM TOP : COURTESY OF CRIMSON F IL INVEST; COURTESY OF ASTORI A GREEN BELT; COURTESY OF SHANGRI-L A AT THE FORT;
COURTESY OF SHANGRI-L A MAK AT I; COURTESY OF SOL A IRE RESORT; COURTESY OF SHANGRI-L A MAK AT I Astoria Green Belt
This small hotel has a hip, cozy vibe that’s perfect for a no-fuss
stay in the CBD of Makati. It’s just 20 minutes from the airport by
taxi, which puts you in a good spot for quick jaunts in and out of
the city that will keep you well under budget. astoriagreenbelt.
com; doubles from P4,140.
Crimson Filinvest
Well-appointed rooms in a calming classic style welcome guests
to the southern part of Metro Manila. With easy access to luxury
shopping centers and the South Superhighway, this hotel is a
great starting point for those looking to drive farther south for
seaside dives or mountain treks. crimsonhotel.com; doubles
from P3,200.
Okada
This flamboyant five-star integrated gaming complex has
something for everyone. With 20-plus dining options, a large kids’
play area and an impressive dance club, it’s a great place to
escape with the whole family. Don’t miss out on The Fountain—
the size of 50 Olympic swimming pools—its water and light show
dazzles. okadamanila.com; doubles from P15,340.
Shangri-La at the Fort
Towering over the skyline of Bonifacio Global City, Metro Manila’s
newest bustling hub for business and leisure, this property offers
luxurious accommodations and arguably some of the city’s best
F&B offerings. It’s in the perfect location for those who want to
be at the center of it all. shangri-la.com; doubles from P10,320.
Shangri-La Makati
Set in the heart of the Makati Central Business District, this well-
located classic retains its four-star status with excellent service
and great dining options. Don’t miss out on the famous Dim Sum
Lunch at Shang Palace! shangri-la.com; doubles from P8,850.
Solaire Resort
This luxurious casino and entertainment complex boasts of five-
star accommodations, a world-class theater, excellent fine
dining and casual eating options, and incredible views of Manila
Bay. Service is as top notch as the surroundings. Indulge in
poolside cocktails as you watch Manila’s famous fiery sunset.
solaireresort.com; doubles from P10,200.
38 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
CHECKING IN ART IN PARADISE
Creativity meets sustainability at the
naturally chic Joali Maldives resort in
Raa Atoll. By Katie Lockhart
From top: On
approach to Joali
Maldives; a Sunset
Luxury Water villa.
40 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
O VER THE ROAR OF the seaplane’s From left: A dine-in Turkish tourism, industry and construction
propellers I hear a heaving sound behind manta ray; views conglomerate Gürallar Group. After coming to the
me. A newlywed I’d befriended at the from your private Maldives for years and trying different properties
airport has her face buried in a sick bag— pool; Bellinis Italian around the atolls, she found that none quite had
our flight had encountered stormy restaurant. everything she wanted, so she decided to create
weather 30 minutes out of Malé. Upon her own. In 2016, she recruited Istanbul-based
arrival at Joali Maldives (joali.com; villas design studio Autoban to translate her vision,
from US$1,930) however, queasiness dissipates overseeing everything down to the thread count
along with clouds as the couple’s jadugar makes of the linens.
the bag disappear from her hand, replacing it with
a welcome drink. “Jadugar,” the Dhivehi word for “There is a feminine touch in the architecture,”
“magician,” sets the bar high for Joali’s personal says resort director Enver Arslan over a tangerine-
butlers, but already I’m impressed. colored cocktail at the poolside Mura Bar. And that
Moments later, my own jadugar, Melih, and I doesn’t mean frou-frou old-school design—on the
are zipping along the resort’s wooden boardwalk, contrary, everything has a fresh, modern feel. “Not
our buggy’s tires thudding gently across the only the functionality, but the design is intended
planks. Black-tipped reef sharks glide lazily to target today’s generation,” Arslan says, pointing
underneath us, a common sight in the waters out the in-room iPads that control “everything in
around the island’s vibrant house reef. The corals
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF JOALI MALDIVES (5) here are great for snorkeling.
Joali was much talked-about when it opened
at the end of 2018, making a splash for its
contemporary-cool signature design, its immersive
art and its sustainability initiatives. Since then, the
resort has won global praise and various design
awards, and I’m keen to see what the fuss is about.
Melih opens the door to my villa with a
warm, “Welcome home.” My Luxury Water Villa
with Pool features soaring cathedral ceilings, a
plush living room that opens into an even more
lavish bedroom and an immense bathroom
with soaking tub, every area complete with
unobstructed views of the Indian Ocean. I’ve been
to 15 different luxury resorts in the Maldives, but
I can’t stop saying wow. Every sublime detail,
from the marble-and-rose-gold drinks bar to the
outdoor shower with bright-green bamboo tiles,
is perfection, expertly curated to the nth degree.
I have no problem making myself comfortable,
slipping on an Ardmore silk kimono from a hanger
that tells me This suits you.
Aesthetically, Joali reflects the style sensibilities
of owner Esin Güral Argat, of the family-run
4 1T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
the room.” Indeed, earlier I had been distractedCHECKING IN From top: The from their Rocket composter. The outdoor
by my own villa’s all-encompassing control panel, COURTESY OF JOALI MALDIVES (2)poolside Mura Bar;Raw Gym was created in collaboration with the
almost to the point of forgetting the wonders that Joali's arrival jetty. children from nearby Ungoofaaru School. It
waited outside. features equipment made from coconuts, tree
trunks and upcycled sandbags—it is a work of art
We move on to the topic of Joali’s art and how in itself, and a community effort at that.
naturally it weaves into the guest experience. “You
see that over there?” Arslan asks, pointing to a big On a blissful afternoon I find myself at Joali Spa
thatched bird head hanging from a tree. “You can by Espa in an overwater, oversized VIP treatment
lay down inside that. And you can have dinner room. I sweat out the alcohol of my afternoon
in the floating wooden manta ray next to the cocktails in the room’s private steam room, which
Japanese restaurant, Soake,” he adds. offers spectacular views of the cyan-colored
Indian Ocean. I watch as a seaplane glides in,
During my stay there are 13 art installations giddy newlyweds in tow, their jadugar ready to
scattered across the island. Scuba dive down to greet them.
Coral Sculpture Garden by Misha Khan, embedded
in the ocean floor. Dine in Manta Ray Treehouse This level of luxury is hard to find, even in the
and or climb in Heron Chair by Cape Town artist Maldives. From ultra-spacious, unabashedly glam
Porky Hefer. In front of the spa you’ll find the villas to an ever-growing collection of art above
coral-like Maldives Vibes sculpture by Zemer and below the waterline, every aspect of Joali has
Peled. There’s even take-home art, with glass coral been something special. Add to that smiling staff
and pineapple pieces by Feleksan Onar presented with an uncanny ability to know what you want
as gifts for guests in every villa. “It is very much before you even ask, and the experience is nothing
experiential art,” Arslan says. This year, the short of magical.
property plans to expand its collection and to host
workshops with featured artists.
While art is the most overt differentiator
at Joali, like any worthy Maldives resort their
commitment to the environment is also
at the forefront. On a mission to become
EarthCheck Certified, the resort has hired a
resident sustainability manager in addition to a
marine biologist who leads its Reef Restoration
Programme. The sustainability manager is tasked
with making the island waste- and plastic-free as
much as possible, and trying to get everything
biodegradable, from the tea bags to the toiletries,
which are also bespoke, vegan and chemical-free.
There is an organic herb-and-vegetable garden,
which they fertilize using recycled kitchen waste
42 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
—
RADISSON BLU
RESORT
NESTLED ON THE PRISTINE BAI DAI
BEACH WITH ALL ROOMS, SUITES
AND VILLAS OVERLOOKING
THE SOUTH CHINA SEA
C A M R A N—H
Idyllically located on Vietnam's south-central coast, Radisson Blu Resort Cam
Ranh blends elegant international style and hospitality with Vietnam’s rich
fishing village heritage.
Radisson Blu Resort Cam Ranh
ABC Nguyen Tat Thanh Highway Lot D12, Cam Hai Dong Commune, Cam Lam District,
Khanh Hoa Province, 655240, Vietnam
T: +84 258 399 3666 [email protected]
radissonhotels.com/blu
ISLANDGREEN respectively to the harbor at Mersing on
TIME FROM TOP: COURTESY OF JAPAMALA RESORT; ARCO IMAGES GMBH/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO.the east coast of southern Malaysia, and
OPPOSITE FROM LEFT: DONGLI ZHANG/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; COURTESY OF JAPAMALA RESORTthen an up-to-two-hour ferry to Tioman.
It might be a trek to get to From top: Japamala
Tioman, but the little For a few years you could catch Resort was built
Malaysian diving star a plane, but the island’s tiny airport without moving any
rewards with reefs teeming has been shut for a while. That’s just trees or boulders;
with turtles and an utter as well. The famous dive sites have mouse-deer are
disregard for clocks. gotten increasingly crowded over protected on Tioman.
the years, so there’s no need to step
By Jeninne Lee-St. John up accessibility. Besides, slow travel
is so soothing, particularly when it’s
I T TAKES FOREVER togetto purposeful. The very draw of Tioman is
Tioman Island. It took the its diametric opposition to city life: its
dragon princess who, the myth undisturbed slow lorises, colugos and
goes, was flying to visit her endemic walking catfish, its bottlenose
love in Singapore so long to dolphins playing in clear-blue waters,
cross the South China Sea that its leeward-side string of small villages
she set down to nap here and dotted by beach-hut hotels spread
turned into the island. Slightly less along beautiful shorelines fronting
dramatically, it took me 24 hours door- rainforest so thick and terrain so rocky
to-door from Hong Kong, requiring an that the easiest passage among them
overnight stop in Singapore before a car is boat-hopping along the crystalline
picked me up at 5 a.m. But even if coastline. After necessarily cultivating
you’re based in the Lion City or Kuala Zen during so much time at home, by
Lumpur, it’s a three- or five-hour drive the time the island reopens to tourism,
we’ll all have a lot more patience—a
44 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
trait Tioman rewards in even the most south later and one of his friends
nonchalant of travelers. with a properly working motor finally
caught up. After spending half an hour
The ferry times, in length of journey suppressing the fear that any passing
and hour of departure, depend on the wake would capsize us and no one in
tides and the seasons. And “time” on the world would know, I then got to
Tioman is a concept loosely applied—if worry about—no, sorry, laugh off as a
for your trip back to the mainland the great adventure—climbing from one
boat arrives, say, nine minutes ahead bitty boat to another in the middle of
of schedule and you’re not yet on the the open ocean.
pier, it’s haul ass or change your flight
home til tomorrow. On any day during Forty-five minutes later, I’d hiked
your lazy sojourn on the island your to the top of Asah Waterfall. It was just
watch might read a loose interpretation a white-capped stream in dry season,
of breakfast time, but hitting up the which explained why I was the only
three restaurants on Salang Beach person there, but it was still pretty,
could confoundingly reveal that one the sun glinting through the trees onto
or all of them were on an even more the wet butter-cookie-colored rocks.
sluggish clock. “Party party last night,” Back at the bottom, I petted an ebony
the shirtless guy lounging in front of kid—as in goat—on the beach belonging
the pharmacist (also still closed) might to the family of farmers whose front
volunteer by way of explanation. No, yard bled into the glassy bay, which I
this is not a place for Swiss precision. swam in to cool off before returning to
my waiting boatman. Legit trekkers can
This is a place where I went over hire a guide for an aggressive three-day
to Kelek town to pick up some duty- hike through the wildlife reserve to the
free booze and use the island’s sole summit of inactive volcano Gunung
ATM, and to hire a local boatman for Kajang. Sailing past its cloud-capped
a tour of the island. He tooled south twin peaks, I couldn’t fathom how
past two more coves before I realized anyone could scale its sheer rock faces.
that his pace wasn’t just unhurried,
but exaggeratedly so, and no it wasn’t The impenetrability of much of
because he was playing it safe for the Tioman is one reason its protected
tourist. Several SOS calls on his old 2G species like bearcats, mouse-deer and
brick phone and a couple of nautical only-on-Mount-Kajang slender litter
miles of putt-putt-puttering slowly frogs remain safe, and why small-scale
From left: Tioman is
a big draw for
divers; Japamala
hosts sunset cocktails
on its pier each day.
4 5T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
conservation work are effective. JuaraGREEN Clockwise from top amounts of wine,” Federico told me
Turtle Project (juaraturtleproject.com; CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: STOCKTREK IMAGES, INC./ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (2); CRYSTITE RF/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO left: A hawksbill (though, there is an Ayurvedic spa, too).
volunteer program from RM700 per turtle; the water in No wonder 40 percent of their guests
week), based on the one habitable cove Tioman is ridiculous; are repeats and some of their regulars
on the east side, monitors and protects Asah waterfall. come for a month at a time.
green- and hawksbill-turtle hatcheries
around the island and conducts releases carved by craftsmen on the island, and, They’ve fallen for the magic of
of baby turtles a few meters before in lieu of paint, walls are decorated by Tioman’s lush far-flungness. A magic
the tideline as soon as they hatch mixing sand and twigs with cement that even cuts through the crowds you
to best simulate natural conditions. (it’s classier than it sounds). The plastic- might find at the most popular dive
Likewise, super-eco Japamala Resort free resort doesn’t import any of the sites up north, little barrier islets and
(japamalaresorts.com; doubles from food in its three restaurants (“You will reefs and mangrove forests, caves and
RM954) does its best to blend. not have a truffle here”). Biodegradable wrecks, too. I went out with Salang Bay
toiletries and other amenities in the Divers (salangbaydivers.com)—who,
You know a hotel is going to be hillside chalets and beach villas are during my visit, were working on an
awesome when it manifested during a locally made and rooted in Malay all-natural coral rehab program with
rave. Back in the early aughts, founder traditions. “Guests have to live among Ocean Quest Global—several times. A
Federico Asaro, who had run dive the animals,” Federico said, and if he great thing about Tioman is its options:
cruises for a decade, was in Tioman weren’t so charming it would feel less you can strap on a tank and walk into
for a full-moonish festival on the like a promise than a threat. “Docile the ocean from the beach or down the
beach. “The party was really boring,” pythons will wrap around the chairs steps of the jetty, or hop a boat to an
he told me, “so I went off staggering and the staff will have to remove them offshore site.
through the jungle and came upon and place them on a tree.”
this derelict site.” He created what’s On a single day, my dive boat
now a 16-key luxury–tree house resort Japamala’s signature feature is its was encircled by a pod of dolphins
without cutting any trees or displacing long pier jutting out westward over the who splashed around us for some 10
any boulders; the buildings are made sea. Aside from its practical purpose minutes, then we docked in a clear
of recycled wood, the fixtures hand- as the landing spot for the resort’s shallow cove and snorkeled in the
good-looking boats (private surf-and- mangroves with a black-tip reef shark;
turf transfers are available all the way later, I swam into Salang Bay for a
to Singapore and KL), with its seafood golden-hour dive that ended with a
grill and daybeds, it’s the perfect place surprise encounter with a hawksbill
to partake of the complimentary sunset turtle. When the ferry back to Mersing
cocktails. “Wellness is about copious arrived nine minutes early the next
morning, I had a serious debate with
myself as to whether to run for it. I
wasn’t ready to reset my clock.
46 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
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MA IKO: © KYOTO CI T Y TOURISM AS SO CI AT ION
Address: 284 Nijoaburanokoji-cho, Aburakoji-dori Nijo-sagaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto 604-0051
Website: https://www.hotelthemitsui.com/kyoto
WA N D E R
SUN, SAND AND STONE
Páros has long been the connoisseur’s Greek island, cherished for its
simple pleasures and secluded atmosphere. Now the debut of a
design-focused hotel is raising the bar on style. BY MICHAEL
JOSEPH GROSS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCO ARGUELLO
Sunbathers at
Kolympithres Beach.
48 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 2 0
From the left: Dining under
the tamarisk trees at
Thalassamou, on Aliki
Beach; Hellenistic-period
statuary at Páros’s
archaeological museum.
T HE BLADE OF the swordfish time between Athens and Santorini and Alexandre Desplat, who scored The
is not sharp. My palm is has just opened a hotel on Páros, Shape of Water, is a regular.) It’s an easy
wrapped around it. When suggested we come here. After table to book, though, because it’s a
chef Marios Salmatanis tells Salmatanis and Kouda beckon us into hard place to find, and because
me to lift it, and I do, I the kitchen to see their catch, we order Salmatanis and Kouda spend practically
almost laugh—it’s so much lunch, kick off our flip-flops and dive all of their time and energy on the food,
lighter than it looks. The hilt into the ocean, which is a pale and on visiting with guests, and almost
is heavy, though: the head of a turquoise, like the iris of a cat’s eye. We none on self-promotion.
35-kilogram creature that stretches all come up smiling, water trickles into my
the way down the kitchen counter of mouth, so delicious and gently salty that “We want everybody to be full,”
the restaurant. “Our first swordfish in I tell Kalia she has to taste it. For a Kouda says, bringing a bowl of mussels
two years!” Salmatanis exclaims. His moment, there is only sea, sky, sun, our steamed in Chardonnay and another
wife, Anna Kouda, explains, “We only bodies about to be fed—a sense of white variety, Malagousia. “Can you
serve fish that is fresh-caught and local. lightness so complete and unexpected. taste the salt in the mussels? That is the
If it’s too windy for the boats, we just taste of the water here,” she says, and I
don’t have fish.” By the time Kalia and I walk back to recognize it.
The restaurant, Thalassamou our table, the procession of dishes has
(thalassamou.gr; mains €10–€27)— begun: sea urchin, octopus, mackerel, When Kalia first visited Páros, as a
Greek for “my sea”—sits at the end of a crab, shrimp, tuna and, of course, teenager, she fell in love with the
barely paved road on Páros, the third swordfish—presented with dips, greens, island’s elemental pleasures—“a perfect
largest in the group of islands known as mousses, pastries and herbed oils. tomato, the blue of the water.” The
the Cyclades. A few worn wooden tables Salmatanis is a fourth-generation cook, island’s history enchants her, too.
and chairs are arranged by the water, in and the only Ritz Escoffier–trained chef Powers from Mycenae to Venice left
the shade of tamarisk trees. My friend in Greece. Kouda tells us the restaurant ruins here. The marvelous
Kalia Konstantinidou, who splits her is especially popular among French archaeological museum in Parikía, the
vacationers. (The film composer island’s capital, holds the oldest
surviving Cycladic marble statuette,
4 9T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
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