SOMETHING SPECIAL ୵ CAKES 599
Making the chocolate glaze
1Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set
over a pan of barely simmering water. The
temperature must not exceed 104°F (40°C).
2 Combine the sugar and 3⁄4 cup water in a
small, heavy pan and bring to a boil to make
a light, colorless syrup. Drip the boiling syrup
into the chocolate, stirring. The mixture will
gradually thicken, but as more syrup is added it
thins again. Pour the mixture back into the hot
pan and heat for 5–6 minutes to 226°F (108°C),
stirring occasionally.
9 Make the chocolate glaze (see right). While 3 Remove the pan from the heat. Pour one- 4 Gently stir to mix with the remaining liquid
it is still warm, pour it evenly over the third of the chocolate onto a clean marble chocolate mixture (still off the heat). Repeat
surface of the cake. Using a metal spatula, spread slab or stone top. Temper by dragging the the tempering process until the temperature of
out the glaze with two or three strokes. It should chocolate back and forth across the surface the glaze has dropped to 108°F (42°C). Then
be shiny and smooth. To serve the cake, cut in using a scraper, without creating air pockets. use to glaze the Sachertorte.
slices with a knife dipped in hot water. As the mixture cools, it will firm up. Scoop off
the mixture with a metal spatula and return it
to the warm pan.
600 CAKES ୴ STEPHAN FRANZ
CHEESECAKES
Cheesecakes are traditionally baked from fresh, soft cheeses, world since the 15th century. Ranging from light and fluffy to dense
cream, eggs, sugar, and spices on a pastry, cake, or crumb base. and very rich, they usually use a local dairy product, such as
They have been made in Europe and many other places around the ricotta, mascarpone, quark, cottage, or cream cheese.
APPLE CHEESECAKE 1Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Place the
baked pastry disk in the springform pan and
The base of pastry topped with sponge cake can brush with apricot jam. Slide in the cake layer,
be made a day ahead. The water content of using the base of another springform pan as a
cottage cheese is high; baking in three stages support. Set aside.
prevents the surface of the cake from cracking.
Makes a 10in (25cm) cheesecake 2 For the apple filling, melt the butter in a
1 thin pâte brisée disk (p500), part-baked in a pan, stir in the bread crumbs, and brown
10in (25cm) springform pan lightly. Add one-third of the apple slices and
11⁄2 tbsp apricot jam, boiled and strained coat well with the buttered crumbs. Add the
half quantity jam roulade batter (p584), baked sugar, citrus zests and juice, walnuts, cinnamon,
in a 10in (25cm) springform pan raisins, and rum. Stir together, then mix with
For the apple filling the remaining apples. Set aside.
2 tbsp (30g) unsalted butter
11⁄3 cups (60g) fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted
11⁄3lb (600g) tart apples, peeled and thickly sliced
1⁄4 cup (50g) granulated sugar
grated zest and juice of 1⁄2 lemon
grated zest and juice of 1⁄2 orange
1⁄3 cup (40g) finely chopped walnuts
pinch of ground cinnamon
3 tbsp (30g) raisins
1 tbsp rum
For the cheese mixture
6 tbsp (75g) vanilla sugar (p634)
1⁄4 heaped cup (35g) custard powder or
vanilla pudding mix
pinch of ground cinnamon
31⁄2 cups (800g) cottage cheese, strained
2⁄3 cup whole milk
2⁄3 cup heavy cream
5 extra large egg yolks, precise weight 31⁄2oz (100g)
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp lemon juice, strained
4 tsp kirsch
31⁄2 tbsp (50g) unsalted butter, melted
4 extra large egg whites, precise weight 51⁄2oz (150g)
1⁄2 heaped cup (110g) granulated sugar
1⁄4 cup (30g) potato flour
3 For the cheese mixture, mix together the CHEESECAKES ୵ CAKES 601
vanilla sugar, custard powder or pudding
mix, and cinnamon. Set aside. In a separate A light fruit
bowl, combine the cottage cheese, milk, cream, cheesecake for
and egg yolks, blending thoroughly. any occasion
4 Add the lemon zest and juice and kirsch,
and mix well. Fold in the vanilla sugar
mixture. Add 2 tbsp of the cheese mixture with
the melted butter, then fold this into the rest of
the cheese mixture. Avoid stirring, otherwise the
cheese cream might separate. Set aside.
5 Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt, 8 When the cake has risen, remove it from the
21⁄2 tbsp (30g) of the sugar, and the potato oven and reduce the temperature to 325°F
flour until pale and creamy. Gradually add the (170°C). Let the surface sink to level with the
remaining sugar and beat to a firm and creamy top of the pan, then put the cheesecake back
snow. Using a whisk, stir one-third of the egg into the oven. Repeat this twice more. The
whites into the cheese cream. Gently fold in the overall baking time is 50–60 minutes.
remaining egg whites using a rubber spatula.
9 Remove the cheesecake from the oven and
6 Spread the apple mixture evenly over the run a knife around the edge to loosen the
cake layer in the pan. Pour the cheese sides. Let cool in the pan, then unclamp the side
mixture onto the apples and spread out gently and remove it. Slide the cheesecake off the base
with a rubber spatula. onto a serving plate. The cheesecake will usually
keep fresh for 2 days.
7 Place the cheesecake in the oven and bake
until the top starts to set (only a short
time). Then open the oven door carefully and
slide an oiled knife around the inside edge of
the pan to release the cheesecake mixture.
Close the oven door and continue baking.
602 CAKES ୴ STEPHAN FRANZ
NEW YORK CHEESECAKE
This version of a classic cheesecake is unbaked
and made with white chocolate. Its rich, creamy
filling contrasts well with the crunchy almond-
flavored base. It is easy to make and you can vary
the toppings: Try red berries or orange or banana
slices, or simply spread sour cream over the top.
Makes an 11in (28cm) cheesecake
For the base
1⁄2 cup (120g) unsalted butter
8oz (250g) amaretti cookies, crushed
For the filling
13oz (380g) white chocolate, finely chopped
12⁄3 cups whole milk
3 cups (750g) cream cheese, at
room temperature
seeds from 1 vanilla bean (p110)
1⁄2 cup (60g) confectioners’ sugar, sifted
bittersweet and white chocolate scrolls
for decoration
LINING THE PAN
Use a springform pan about 11in (28cm) in diameter. 1Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Melt 3 Meanwhile, beat together the cream cheese,
To line the pan, place a large sheet of parchment the butter in a small pan and mix in the vanilla seeds, and confectioners’ sugar until
paper on the base, position the pan’s side, and clamp amaretti crumbs. Press evenly over the bottom of creamy. Stir in half of the white chocolate
it in place. Trim off the excess paper with scissors . the prepared pan (see left). Bake for 12 minutes. mixture, then fold in the remainder. Pour into
Set aside to cool. the cake pan and spread level. Cover and chill
for at least 6 hours.
2 To make the filling, place the chocolate and
milk in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of 4 Run a sharp knife carefully around the
barely simmering water. When melted, gently inside of the pan to release the cheesecake,
stir using an immersion blender, avoiding then unclamp the side and lift off. Transfer the
beating in any air. Let cool, stirring now and cheesecake to a serving plate and then decorate
then to prevent a skin from forming. with chocolate scrolls.
SIGNATURE Stephan’s cheesecake
DISH
This is my own recipe for a very special occasion. Use the ring (the side) of a 10in
(25cm) springform pan (no base needed), lightly brushed with unflavored oil and lined
with strips of foil. The cheesecake stays fresh for 1–2 days.
Makes a 10in (25cm) cheesecake Place the pastry disk on a baking sheet. Brush the mixture is beginning to set, so remove
with apricot jam, then cover with the bottom from the bowl of ice and beat in one-third of
For the cake génoise layer. Arrange the peaches, cut-side the whipped cream. Use a rubber spatula to
1 baked 10in (25cm) pâte brisée disk (p500) down, on the surface. Set the prepared pan side fold in the remainder.
11⁄2 tbsp (30g) apricot jam, boiled and strained (see above) around the cake layers. Set aside.
1 baked génoise (p582), cut into 2 layers Reserve one-fourth of the filling; keep,
12 bottled or canned peach halves, drained For the filling, combine the cheese, sour covered, in a cool place. Carefully spoon the
and dried on paper towels cream, milk, sugar, egg yolks, and a pinch of remaining filling over the peaches, spreading
confectioners’ sugar for dusting salt in a large heatproof bowl set over a pan of evenly and filling all the gaps. Smooth the top.
barely simmering water. Beat the mixture Chill for at least 4 hours. Remove the cake ring
For the cheese cream filling until light and airy, and doubled in volume. and finish the cake shortly before serving.
11⁄2 cups (340g) farmer cheese, pressed Mix in the lemon juice. Remove from the heat
through a strainer and stir in the vanilla seeds and lemon zest. To finish the cheesecake, cut the other (top)
1⁄3 cup (75g) sour cream génoise layer into 12 triangles. Fit a pastry
6 tbsp whole milk Soften the gelatin sheets in a large bowl of bag with a large, plain tip and fill with the
1⁄2 cup + 3 tbsp (140g) granulated sugar cold water for 2 minutes, then remove and reserved filling. Pipe 12 rosettes on the cake
6 large egg yolks, precise weight 31⁄2oz (100g) squeeze gently. Add to the warm cheese top, then arrange the génoise triangles at an
4 tsp lemon juice mixture and stir very gently until melted. angle, with points to the center. Dust with
seeds from 1⁄2 vanilla bean (p110) confectioners’ sugar.
grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon Set the bowl in another bowl of crushed ice
8 sheets of gelatin and stir until the mixture starts to thicken to
21⁄2 cups heavy cream, lightly whipped the consistency of raw egg white. At this point,
604 CAKES ୴ STEPHAN FRANZ
YEAST CAKES made with dry yeast will take 40 minutes. The general rule for
testing the rise in either is to push a finger into the batter—it
If compressed fresh yeast is unavailable, you can substitute active should spring apart and then shrink back in on itself.
dry yeast for the buttercake below and the stollen on p606. A
fresh-yeast cake batter takes about 20 minutes to rise; a batter
BUTTERCAKE 1⁄4 cup (50g) quark or farmer cheese, pressed 1For the yeast sponge, crumble the fresh yeast,
through a strainer or sprinkle the dry yeast, onto the warm milk
This is a simple version of one of the most grated zest of 1 lemon in the mixing bowl of an electric mixer fitted
traditional German cakes. As yeast works better seeds from 1 vanilla bean (p110) with the dough hook. Sift the flour twice, then
in a large mixture, the batter quantity is enough 7 tbsp (100g) unsalted butter, softened sift into the bowl.
for two cakes. If baking just one of the cakes, 2 tsp dark rum
wrap the leftoever batter in foil and a freezer scant 1⁄2 cup (100g) sour cream 2 Set the machine at slow speed and knead
bag. Freeze for up to one month. The topping For the butter topping (1 cake only) until the mixture is smooth and rolls off the
and finishing ingredients are for one cake only. 3⁄4 cup + 2 tbsp (200g) unsalted butter, diced and sides of the bowl. Remove to another bowl,
softened cover with a dish towel, and let rise in a warm
Makes 2 large cakes 3⁄4 cup (200g) crème pâtissière (p560) place for 20 minutes.
For the yeast sponge 1 extra large egg yolk, precise weight 3⁄4oz (20g)
11⁄4oz (35g) compressed fresh yeast or To finish (1 cake only) 3 To make the yeast batter, sift the flour and
5 tsp active dry yeast 3⁄4 cup + 2 tbsp (175g) granulated sugar salt together twice, then sift into the clean
2 tbsp (25g) vanilla sugar (p634) bowl of the electric mixer.
1⁄2 cup milk, warmed to lukewarm 3⁄4 cup (80g) sliced almonds
1 cup + 3 tbsp (150g) all-purpose flour 21⁄2 tbsp (50g) honey 4 Lightly beat the egg yolks together in
For the yeast batter 1⁄2 cup heavy cream another small bowl; reserve 2 tsp (10g) of
23⁄4 cups (350g) all-purpose flour the yolks and add the rest to the mixer bowl,
1 tsp salt along with the milk, sugar, cheese, lemon zest,
5 extra large egg yolks, precise weight 31⁄4oz (90g) and vanilla seeds. With the dough hook, slowly
5 tbsp milk knead until firm and smooth.
5 tbsp (60g) granulated sugar
5 Add the risen yeast sponge to the bowl and 6 Grease a 12 by 8in (30 by 20cm) baking pan 7 Using a large metal spatula, spread the sour
continue kneading with the dough hook and line with parchment paper. Divide the cream evenly over the risen batter. Do this
until the batter has large air bubbles. Mix in the batter in half. Roll out half the batter to fit the as gently as possible so as not to deflate it.
softened butter and rum. Transfer the batter to prepared pan. (Freeze the remaining batter for
a large bowl. Cover with a dish towel and let rise later use.) Cover with a dish towel and set aside
in a cool place for 20 minutes. to rise again for 20 minutes.
YEAST CAKES ୵ CAKES 605
8 Lightly press your fingertips into the batter, 9 For the butter topping, beat together the 1 1 Bake for 40 minutes, then switch off the
at regular intervals over the whole surface. butter, crème pâtissière, and egg yolk. Put oven and turn on the broiler (or turn the
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). into a large pastry bag fitted with a plain tip, and oven to top heat only and increase the
pipe diagonal lines across the surface. temperature to 425°F/220°C). Toast the top of
the cake for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven.
1 0 To finish, fork the sugars and reserved Bring the honey and cream to a boil, and brush
egg yolk together, and sprinkle over the over the hot cake. Cut into squares before the
top along with the almonds. Place in the oven topping hardens, then let cool in the pan for
and reduce the temperature to 350°F (175°C). 30 minutes. This is best eaten freshly made.
SIGNATURE Dresden stollen
DISH
Christmas stollen first appeared as a festive bread in 1427, in the court of Saxony. This
recipe is a modern version, buttery and spicy, and full of nuts, marzipan, and candied fruits.
Stollen should be left to mature for 2–3 days before being eaten.
Makes 2 For the yeast sponge 6 tbsp milk Start the day before. Place all the ingredients
5 tsp sugar for the fruits in a bowl. Stir well, then cover
For the fruits 12⁄3 cups (200g) all-purpose 1 tsp apple pie spice and leave at room temperature overnight.
31⁄4 cups (480g) golden raisins flour 11⁄2 tbsp (20g) cream cheese
1⁄3 cup (60g) chopped candied 5oz (140g) marzipan, diced For the yeast sponge, have all the ingredients at
lemon peel 11⁄2oz (40g) compressed fresh 1⁄2 cup + 2 tbsp (150g) room temperature. Sift the flour into the bowl
3⁄4 cup (120g) chopped yeast or 2 envelopes active unsalted butter, chilled and of an electric mixer fitted with the dough
candied orange peel dry yeast diced hook. Crumble in the fresh yeast, or sprinkle
1 tbsp dark rum pinch of grated lemon zest over the dry yeast, and add the milk and sugar.
1 cup (120g) slivered or sliced 2⁄3 cup milk few drops of vanilla extract Knead for 15 minutes at slow speed. Cover
almonds 2 tbsp minced candied with a dish towel and let rise in a cool place for
2 tsp vanilla extract 4 tsp sugar orange peel at least 30 minutes.
3 tbsp water
grated zest of 1 lemon For the dough To finish For the dough, sift the flour and salt into a
1 cup (250g) unsalted butter, bowl. Add the whole egg and yolks, milk, sugar,
2 cups (250g) all-purpose clarified (p26) spice, and cream cheese. Knead to a very soft
flour 2 cups confectioners’ sugar dough. Incorporate the yeast sponge and
continue kneading for 5 minutes.
1 tsp salt
Add the marzipan pieces and knead until the
1 medium egg, precise mixture rolls off the sides of the bowl. Add the
shelled weight 13⁄4oz (50g) butter, piece by piece, and knead until the
mixture is elastic and smooth. Add the lemon
51⁄2 medium or 5 large egg zest, vanilla, and orange peel. Knead well.
yolks, precise weight 3oz (80g)
Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and,
with floured hands, knead in the drained, dried
fruit mixture. Cover with a dish towel and let
rest for 20 minutes. Gently shape the dough into
a ball, cover, and leave for 10 minutes longer.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Grease a
large baking sheet and line with parchment
paper. Divide the dough into two pieces. On a
floured surface, using a rolling pin, roll out one
piece into a rectangle and gently press flat. Fold
both long sides into the middle. Then fold in
one of the long sides to the middle, curling it
over slightly on the top. Repeat this process
with the second piece of dough.
Lay the stollen, flat side down, on the prepared
baking sheet. Let rest for 5 minutes, then place
in the oven. Reduce the temperature to 350°F
(175°C) and bake for 50–60 minutes. Transfer
the stollen to a wire rack and immediately
brush them with clarified butter and dredge
with sifted confectioners’ sugar.
SMALL CAKES ୵ CAKES 607
SMALL CAKES
This section includes some all-time favorites, such as scones, make up for this by being some of the most addictive to eat. Who
doughnuts, and chocolate-covered oat bars. These small cakes hasn’t found it hard to resist yet another chocolate brownie or
may be less grand than their elaborately decorated sisters, but they warm-from-the-oven muffin?
SCONES WITH RAISINS
As traditional as cucumber sandwiches on the
tea table, scones originated in Scotland. They
taste best filled with strawberry jam and rich
clotted cream. Failing that, whipped cream or
mascarpone blended with cream also taste good.
The raw dough freezes well for up to a month.
Makes 10
3⁄4 cup (115g) raisins
1 cup strong tea, cold
1 tbsp dark rum
21⁄4 cups (270g) cake flour
3⁄4 cup (90g) all-purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
7 tbsp (100g) unsalted butter, softened
7 tbsp (85g) sugar
grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon
11⁄2 large eggs, lightly beaten together, precise
shelled weight 3oz (85g)
7 tbsp milk
1–2 tbsp heavy cream
1The day before, put the raisins in the tea and
rum, and let soak overnight.
2 Sift the two flours and the baking powder
together twice, then sift onto a sheet of wax
paper. Set aside.
3 In a large mixing bowl, beat together the
butter, sugar, and lemon zest until thick
and creamy. Mix in the eggs in three stages,
then add the milk a little at a time. Stir well
until the mixture is smooth and lump-free.
4 Add the sifted flour in stages and knead 5 The next day, grease a large baking sheet 6 Using a 21⁄2in (6cm) round cutter, stamp out
lightly until smooth and elastic in texture. and line it with parchment paper. Roll out circles. Place them slightly apart on the
Mix in the drained raisins. Shape into a ball, the chilled scone dough on a lightly floured baking sheet. Lightly beat the cream with a
wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. surface to a 3⁄4in (2cm) thickness. Preheat the pinch each of salt and sugar. Use this to glaze
oven to 400°F (210°C). the tops of the scones. Bake for 15–18 minutes.
Cool on a wire rack.
608 CAKES ୴ STEPHAN FRANZ
OAT-CRANBERRY BARS
If preferred, you can omit the white chocolate
coating. Kept in an airtight tin, the oat bars will
keep fresh for 4–5 days.
Makes 16 2 Combine the butter, golden syrup, and 3 In a mixing bowl, stir together the oats,
1 cup (250g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces brown sugar in a small pan and melt gently flour, and cranberries. Add the warm butter
2⁄3 cup (200g) golden syrup over low heat until foaming. and sugar mixture and blend well. Press the
1⁄2 cup packed (100g) light brown sugar mixture into the lined pan and bake for 25–30
3 cups (250g) rolled oats minutes. Let cool. Cut into small rectangles.
3⁄4 cup (100g) cake flour, sifted twice
1 cup (150g) dried cranberries
31⁄2oz (100g) white couverture chocolate,
finely chopped
1Grease a deep 9in (23cm) square baking pan
and line the bottom with parchment paper.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (170°C).
4 Melt the chocolate pieces in a heatproof
bowl set over a pan of barely simmering
water. Pour half of the melted chocolate onto a
clean marble slab or stone surface. Cool it down
by tempering it (moving the chocolate back and
forth using a scraper until it firms up, p599).
5 Before it hardens, scrape the chocolate back
into the pan (off the heat) and gently stir to
combine; the chocolate should be no warmer
than 84°F (29°C). Repeat the tempering process.
When ready to use, if the chocolate has cooled
too much, put the bowl back over the hot water.
6 Dip each oat bar diagonally into the
chocolate, then let set on a wire rack
covered with parchment paper.
SOUR CREAM DOUGHNUTS SMALL CAKES ୵ CAKES 609
Purists argue whether a true Dust the warm doughnuts
doughnut is raised with yeast or with confectioners’ sugar
baking powder. The yeasted version
comes from 18th-century Austria.
This recipe, made with baking
powder, takes much less time to
prepare. Eat the doughnuts on the
day they are made.
Makes 28
31⁄2 cups (440g) all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
pinch of grated nutmeg
1 tbsp baking powder
2 medium eggs, precise shelled
weight 31⁄2oz (100g)
11⁄4 cups (250g) granulated sugar
scant 1 cup (200g) sour cream
3 tbsp whole milk
3 tbsp (45g) unsalted butter, melted
1 tbsp orange marmalade, strained
2 tsp grated orange zest
peanut oil for deep-frying
confectioners’ sugar for dusting
VARIATION
The doughnuts are also good coated
with shredded coconut. Alternatively,
brush them with strained apricot jam
and coat with glacé icing or melted
semisweet chocolate.
1Sift together the flour, salt, 3 Carefully fold in spoonfuls of 4 Roll out the dough to a 2in 5 Heat oil for deep-frying to
nutmeg, and baking powder the flour mixture until just (5cm) thickness. Using a 21⁄2in 350°F (180°C). Gently add the
twice, then sift again onto a sheet combined. With lightly floured (6cm) cutter, cut out large circles, doughnuts to the hot oil, two or
of wax paper. Set aside. hands, shape the dough into a ball, then stamp out the centers with a three at a time. They must not
cover with a dish towel, and let rest 5⁄8in (1.5cm) cutter. Gather up the touch each other in the pan. Fry
2 Beat the eggs in a large bowl, in a cool place for 20 minutes. scraps, knead together, roll out, and until they are golden brown, about
then beat in the sugar, 1 tbsp cut out more rings. 11⁄2 minutes on each side. Lift out
at a time, until pale, thick, and and drain on paper towels.
creamy. Stir in the sour cream,
milk, butter, marmalade, and
grated orange zest. Blend well.
610 CAKES ୴ STEPHAN FRANZ
BROWNIES WITH CHEESECAKE FILLING
Who created brownies? Folklore suggests that a Miss Brown, a librarian in Makes 24 4 Melt the chocolate pieces in a
Maine, forgot to add baking powder to her chocolate cake batter. It came heatproof bowl set over a pan
out of the oven completely flat. Despite this, she served it to her friends, For the cheese filling of barely simmering water. Heat the
who loved it. The test of time and the huge popularity of brownies have butter until foaming, then stir in the
overcome all professional criticism. These will keep fresh for one week. 1 cup (250g) cream cheese, at melted chocolate and stir until the
room temperature temperature has dropped to 104°F
(40°C). Let cool.
1⁄2 cup (140g) farmer cheese, pressed
through a strainer 5 Stir 2–3 tbsp of the egg
mixture into the chocolate
5 tbsp (60g) sugar mixture to lighten it, then fold in
the remaining egg mixture with a
2 tbsp (15g) cake flour rubber spatula, taking care not to
lose air. Fold in the flour and pecan
1 medium egg, precise shelled mixture a spoonful at a time. Pour
weight 13⁄4oz (50g) into the prepared pan.
21⁄2 medium egg yolks, beaten
together, precise weight 11⁄2oz (40g)
For the brownie batter
13⁄4 cups (200g) dry-roasted (p632)
and coarsely chopped pecans
12⁄3 cups (200g) cake flour, sifted
twice and then into a bowl
6 medium eggs, precise shelled
weight 10oz (300g)
21⁄4 cups (450g) sugar
7oz (200g) best-quality bittersweet
chocolate (70% cocoa solids),
finely chopped
11⁄3 cups (300g) unsalted butter
For the glaze
6 tbsp (85g) unsalted butter, diced
1⁄2 cup water
8oz (250g) best-quality bittersweet
chocolate, finely chopped
1Grease an 11 by 9 by 13⁄4in
(28 by 23 by 4cm) cake or
baking pan with butter and line the
bottom with parchment paper.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (170°C).
2 For the cheese filling, stir all
ingredients together in a large
bowl. Cover and set aside.
3 For the brownie batter, stir the 6 Put the cheese filling into a
nuts into the flour. Put the large pastry bag fitted with a
eggs in a separate large bowl with plain tip. Pipe blobs, 3⁄4in (2cm)
a pinch of salt and 1 cup (200g) of deep, into the chocolate mixture,
the sugar. Beat together until pale close together, at regular intervals.
and foamy, then gradually beat in
the rest of the sugar.
SMALL CAKES ୵ CAKES 611
APRICOT MUFFINS
7 Bake until the center of the Muffins made with yeast originated PERFECT MUFFINS
cake starts to thicken and set, in England, where they were very
35–40 minutes. Remove from the popular during the 19th century. í Butter the muffin pan, then place it
oven and let cool in the pan. American muffins, which are much in the freezer briefly. Having the pan
more like cakes than their English very cold and the butter set before
8 To make the glaze, put the cousins, are occasionally yeast- the batter is poured in will make the
butter and water into a pan raised, but are more likely to be baked muffins pop out of the cups
and bring just to a boil. Spoon the leavened with baking powder. more easily.
chopped chocolate pieces into the í Steam from the water in the empty
center, remove from the heat, and Makes 10 cups makes the baked muffins soft,
leave for a few moments. light, and moist.
2 cups (250g) dried apricots,
9 Using a rubber spatula and finely chopped 4 Gently mix in the flour until 6 To test if the muffins are done,
working from the middle, start just blended. Avoid overmixing, stick a toothpick into the
stirring, gradually drawing the 1⁄2 cup fresh orange juice, strained because it will make the batter center of one of them: It should
liquid into the chocolate. Always heavy. Spoon into 10 of the muffin come out completely clean and dry.
work from the center out. Stir until 3 cups (375g) all-purpose flour cups and pour a little water into
well blended, taking care not to the two empty cups. 7 Remove the pan from the oven
beat in air while stirring. The glaze 4 tsp baking powder and leave on a damp cloth for
will develop a slight sheen. 5 Reduce the oven temperature 5 minutes. (This makes it easier to
1⁄2 cup (125g) unsalted butter, diced to 350°F (180°C) and bake the unmold the muffins from the pan.)
and softened muffins until well risen and golden, Eat on the day of baking.
about 25 minutes.
1⁄2 cup + 2 tbsp (125g) sugar
2 large eggs, beaten together,
precise shelled weight 4oz (110g)
1 cup plain yogurt
grated zest of 1 orange
1Put the apricots and orange
juice in a bowl and let soak for
at least 3 hours.
2 Preheat the oven to 400°F
(200°C). Grease a standard
12-muffin pan with butter. Sift the
flour and baking powder twice,
then sift again onto a sheet of wax
paper. Set aside.
10 Spread in a smooth layer on 3 In a large bowl, beat together
the surface of the brownie the butter, sugar, and a pinch
cake, then drag a decorating comb of salt until light and fluffy. Add the
or a fork across it in a wavy line. To eggs to the mixture in three stages,
serve, cut in squares using a knife beating well between each addition.
dipped in hot water. If the mixture curdles, stir in
a small amount of flour to bind.
Add the yogurt, orange zest, and
drained apricots, and stir lightly
together until just mixed.
FRUIT & NUTS SHAUN HILL
Today, fruit has a healthy aura, but it was not always so. In Roman times, fruits, especially soft fruit,
were regarded with some disdain. The great physician Galen saw moist fruits as little better than a
laxative, claiming that their nutrients are easily leeched away. In fact, fruits are among the few
foodstuffs that evolved to attract the hungry, their perfume and sweetness being nature’s way of
enticing those creatures able to eat them and distribute their seeds. Before Adam’s unfortunate
episode with the apple, fruits were the nourishment of the Garden of Eden.
Seasonal fare Fruits and nuts are emblems of their seasons. Just as the first strawberries represent
all the freshness and vitality of early summer, apples are as much wedded in the mind with
Halloween as pumpkins and ghosts, and nuts, tangerines, dates, and figs with Christmas. The
recipes and dishes that have developed around specific fruits reflect the seasonal desire for
appropriate fare. Most apple and pear dishes are served hot rather than cold, whereas fresh drupe
fruits and berries are associated more with light desserts and refreshing ice creams.
Dried fruits such as figs, dates, apricots, raisins, and currants are pantry items, ingredients for
winter cakes and desserts. Candied and preserved drupe fruits such as cherries are also welcome
by-products of the pre-freezer era, ingredients that brighten up a range of winter dishes and closely
linked in most people’s minds with Christmas feasting.
All-year availability Fruits have their seasons, but many of us expect to eat all kinds of fruits and
nuts year round. While most fruits naturally ripen on the bush or tree, imported fruit has to be
gathered under-ripe to survive the long journey from grower to kitchen. Of course, these fruits
continue to ripen after purchase and, if kept too long or in overly warm conditions, will overripen and
spoil. This process can be slowed by chilling the fruit and by isolating it from other fruits, since gases
given off by ripening fruit help to ripen the fruit around them. Conversely, you can speed up the
ripening process by placing ripe fruits with unripe ones.
While it is convenient to buy fruits according to whim, the shopper has to be alert to practices that
favor those supplying fruit, rather than those buying and eating it. Irradiation of soft fruit in countries
where this is permitted encourages lazy handling and storage. Excessive spraying with pesticides is
a menace in foodstuffs that are likely to be eaten raw. Even the standard treatment of citrus fruits
makes it necessary for organic or unwaxed fruit to be specified if the peel is to be used in the recipe.
Genetic engineering and changes in horticultural technique have extended the season for most soft
fruits and, while the result has been cheaper fruits and better availability, there is a danger of less
prolific fruit varieties becoming rare, as we select newer strains that crop more heavily or store better,
but possibly have inferior flavor and character.
The value of nuts Unlike fruits, nuts are more often used as ingredients than served as a separate
course in a meal. In the past, some nuts played a much more significant part in the diet—even the
humble acorn was ground and used as a flour substitute when food was short. Acorn flour is rarely
on offer now, but you can buy chestnut flour in Italian shops for making into fritters and cakes.
Many nuts are now cultivated primarily for their oil. For a long time peanut oil was a staple kitchen
ingredient, but the burgeoning sensitivity of many people to nut products has reduced its
importance. Walnut oil is second only to olive oil as a salad dressing ingredient, and hazelnut,
coconut, and almond oils are all used to flavor both sweet and savory dishes.
Nuts are high in oil and vitamin B, and, like anything oily, turn rancid if stored badly or for too long.
The best way to keep nuts is to refrigerate them in their shells, sealed in glass or plastic containers
to avoid being tainted by other odors. Almonds and cashews are among the most hardy; walnuts
and pecans are most prone to deterioration in storage.
616 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
PREPARING FRESH FRUIT
Fruit has evolved to be eaten. When it is ripe, it is at its best and same way as oranges. Fruit that is difficult to peel, such as
little of the chef’s art is called for to improve matters. The citrus peaches, can be dropped into boiling water for a few moments
family forms segments and all members are easily tackled in the to blanch and loosen the skin for easy removal.
SECTIONING AN CUTTING PINEAPPLE RINGS & CHUNKS
ORANGE
1With a sharp knife, cut a small piece of peel
from the top and base of the orange. Hold
the orange firmly with a fork, or your other
hand, and slice down and around the flesh. Try
to take off as much pith as possible. Use a small
knife to cut away any left clinging to the fruit.
2 The orange will now show the contours of 1Cut off the stalky top and then the base of
each section, separated from the next by the pineapple. Stand the fruit upright on the
a membrane. Cut into and along the edge of a cutting board, then slice off the skin in long
section. Cut the section back along its outer strips, cutting from top to bottom. Follow the
edge, leaving behind the membrane, so that it is contour of the pineapple so that no flesh is cut
freed. Repeat this process with all the sections. off where the fruit bulges toward the middle.
2 For pineapple rings, turn the fruit on its
side and cut into slices of the desired
thickness. Take a small, round cutter and cut
out the hard center of each slice. For pineapple
chunks, cut the fruit into thicker slices, remove
the hard centers, and cut into sections.
PREPARING FRESH FRUIT ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 617
PREPARING A MANGO REMOVING
POMEGRANATE
Mangoes must be ripe and sweet, unless they are an ingredient in a savory stew or chutney. It is not SEEDS
necessary to peel them to get at the flesh—I think the best way to prepare cubes of mango is the one
shown below. In Britain, we call this making a mango “hedgehog.”
1Stand the fruit on its side and slice down 2 Place each mango “half ” flesh-side up. Cut Cut the fruit in half and carefully scoop out the
and into the middle, until you meet the the flesh lengthwise into strips, then cut seeds with a teaspoon. The pithy membrane is
large, flat pit. Continue cutting around the pit across the strips. Do not cut through the skin. bitter, so discard this.
and down to the cutting board. Repeat to cut Press the skin side of the mango half so that the
away the flesh from the other side of the pit. fruit bursts upward into cubes. PREPARING
GOOSEBERRIES
PEELING PEACHES OR NECTARINES
1With a small, sharp knife, cut a small cross 2 Immerse the fruit in boiling water for With a sharp knife or scissors, cut off both ends.
in the skin on the base of the fruit. 30 seconds. Remove from the water and Frozen gooseberries are already “topped and
pull off the skin with your fingers. tailed,” but you still need to remove any stalky
pieces for a smooth dessert like gooseberry fool.
618 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
PURÉEING FRUIT and for the sweetness of the fruit to be altered to suit the treatment
—ice creams need more sugar than a mousse that is served at
Soft fruits like raspberries and strawberries need no cooking before room temperature, and ripe fruit needs little sweetening.
being puréed. Most other fruits need to be braised or poached
first, to soften them. This gives an opportunity for judicious spicing
GOOSEBERRY FOOL
There are differing degrees of smoothness 2 Mash the cooked fruit or press through a 3 Whip the cream until it is thick but not
desirable in a fruit purée, from the completely coarse strainer, then let cool. Add a few fully whipped. Fold in the fruit purée.
smooth and homogenous result of a blender to drops of elderflower syrup, if using. Check for sweetness—a tart-sweet, refreshing
mashing in a food mill or pressing the cooked flavor is the objective—then spoon or pipe into
fruit through a coarse strainer. Gooseberry fool glasses and refrigerate until needed.
is best made with the latter method, because the
texture and specks of fruit still remaining are
part of the dessert’s appeal.
Most gooseberries need to be cooked with
sugar. They turn yellow during the process and
their firm texture softens—not an aesthetic
improvement, but essential to a successful fool.
Gooseberries have an affinity with elderflowers,
which blossom at the same time, so a few drops
of elderflower syrup work well in this or any
other gooseberry dish. Rhubarb makes an
excellent alternative to gooseberries.
Serves 4–6
1lb 2oz (500g) gooseberries
4 tsp unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
few drops of elderflower syrup (optional)
11⁄4 cups heavy cream
1Prepare the gooseberries (p617). In a heavy-
based saucepan, heat them gently with the
butter and sugar. Once the gooseberries start to
cook, they produce plenty of liquid. If they or
the sugar catch on the bottom of the pan before
softening, they will caramelize to produce a
different flavor from that wanted, so keep the
heat low. Cook until soft, 10–15 minutes.
PURÉEING FRUIT ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 619
BANANA MOUSSE 1Peel the bananas and cut into pieces. Purée USING GELATIN
in a blender with the fruit juices and sugar.
The smooth purée achieved by a blender is Unflavored gelatin comes in two forms: clear,
called for here, and also the use of gelatin to 2 Warm the water and crème de banane, paper-thin sheets or leaves and granules or
set the mousse properly (most mousses are set then, off the heat, stir in the soaked gelatin. powder. Whichever kind you use, it needs the
with gelatin). Use as little as possible so that the When the gelatin has completely melted, stir the same treatment: It must be softened in a little
finished mousse is soft and delicate rather than mixture into the puréed fruit. Whip the cream cold liquid before being dissolved in warm, but
rubbery. For a more complex dish with varying until thick but not fully whipped, then fold it not boiling, liquid. Gelatin is added to warm
textures, you could combine a fruit mousse with into the fruit purée. Spoon the mousse into liquid so that it will melt and disperse evenly
a layer of the same fruit in jelled form (p620). individual ramekins or dishes of your choice before the dessert is chilled and set.
and refrigerate until set.
Serves 4–6 Sheet gelatin is less easy to find than powdered,
but it produces smoother, clearer results. Look
8oz (250g) ripe bananas for sheet gelatin in gourmet and specialty food
or baking stores.
juice of 1 lemon
Sheet gelatin
juice of 1 orange
1⁄2 cup + 2 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp crème de banane liqueur
1 tbsp water
3 sheets of gelatin, soaked for 10 minutes,
then squeezed dry
11⁄2 cups heavy cream
1Soak the sheets of gelatin in cold water to
cover for at least 10 minutes. Then gently
squeeze out as much water as possible.
2 Warm water or a flavored liquid in a small
pan. Remove from the heat and add the
gelatin. Stir until completely melted.
Powdered gelatin
A 1⁄4-oz envelope of powdered unflavored gelatin,
which contains 1 scant tbsp, is equivalent to
4 sheets of gelatin. Sprinkle powdered gelatin
over cold liquid (about 1⁄4 cup for 1 envelope)
and let soften for 3–5 minutes.
620 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
JELLED FRUIT DESSERTS
For success, you need just enough liquid, at a high enough memories of these chewy and wildly colored confections that
temperature, to melt the gelatin. Too much gelatin and the dessert lowered their popularity. The vegetable counterpart—aspic—has
will set like rubber; too little and it may not set at all. In the past, suffered a fall from grace for the same reasons. The best advice is
jelled or gelatin desserts were made too hard in order to produce to err on the side of softness and refrigerate the dessert until it is to
molded shapes for buffets or table decoration, and it may be be eaten, rather than trying to display it.
ROSÉ WINE GELATIN WITH BERRIES
All rosé wines will work in this recipe, but the
style and weight of the finished dish will be
affected by your choice. I have used hefty
Californian blush wines as well as fruity Anjou
and Australian rosés. The wine need not be extra
sweet—in fact, it is its tartness balanced by sugar
that produces the right effect. The fragile nature
of berries are well served by this treatment.
The recipe makes enough for six 5oz (150ml)
dishes, and the gelatin can be eaten from the
dishes or unmolded onto serving plates.
Serves 6
3 cups rosé wine
3 cups sugar
8 sheets of gelatin, soaked for 10 minutes,
then squeezed dry
6 heaped tbsp mixed blueberries, raspberries,
and blackberries
1Heat the wine and sugar in a pan to boiling
point. Remove from the heat and stir in the
gelatin until melted. Let the wine syrup cool to
lukewarm, then pour a 1⁄8in (3mm) layer into
each dish. Refrigerate until this starts to set.
2 Spoon the fruit on top of the layer of set
gelatin. Pour on the remaining cool wine
syrup and refrigerate overnight. Serve with
cream or ice cream, if desired.
POACHING FRUIT ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 621
POACHING FRUIT summer pudding and rote grütze, any loss of texture is more than
compensated for by the juices and extra flavor. Larger fruits are
Poaching is an extension of the ripening process, with the fruit suited to poaching as compote: apples, pears, and quinces in the
intensifying in flavor but deteriorating in texture. It also gives an fall; apricots, peaches, and plums in summer. The sweeter
opportunity to add complementary flavors, such as vanilla to pears the syrup used to cook the fruit, the better it will retain its shape.
or sweet wine to plums. There are two main categories of poached
fruit. In compotes, the fruit retains its shape, while in dishes like
SUMMER PUDDING
The essence of summer, this dessert 2 Cut a disk of white bread to 3 Place a small plate on top of POINTS TO
contains whatever summer fruits are fit in the bottom of a steamed- the pudding and weight down. WATCH
at their best and transforms them by pudding basin or other mold. Cut Set in a dish to catch any drips of
first poaching, then pressing in white the remaining bread into triangles. juice. Once cool, refrigerate the í The fruit must produce enough
bread. The bread becomes saturated Dip these in the fruit juice, then use pudding. Leave at least overnight, juice to soak the bread completely.
with the warm fruit juices and, to line the basin evenly. Pour in the or preferably for a few days, before Should you be short of juice at the
when chilled, tastes completely of fruit and remaining juice. Cover unmolding and serving in wedges crucial moment, heat a few more
these fruits, lending just texture and the basin with more slices of bread. with whipped cream. raspberries in sugar and water to
body to the finished dish. My own produce the extra juice needed.
fruit preference is to add pitted í The pudding shouldn’t be overly
cherries to the mixture—berries sweet. Err on the side of less sugar
soften completely, losing all texture, and adjust while the poached fruits
and currants can feel almost gritty are still hot enough to dissolve any
if used to excess. The objectives are additional sugar required.
a deep red color, fruitiness, and í The flavor of summer pudding
a touch of tartness to balance the develops over a few days, as the
sweetness of the sugar and ripe fruit. bread and juices combine, so it
is best made well in advance.
21⁄4lb (1kg) fruit, such as raspberries,
pitted cherries, and red currants;
peaches, plums, black currants, and
strawberries can also be used
11⁄4 cups sugar
1 loaf of white bread, sliced and
crusts removed
1Toss the fruit with the sugar in
a pot, then gently bring to a
boil, stirring to prevent burning.
Simmer gently until plenty of juice
is produced, about 2 minutes. Add
more sugar, if necessary, or a few
drops of lemon juice if too sweet.
622 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
ROTE GRÜTZE (RASPBERRY PUDDING)
This German name translates as “red grits” or “red gruel.” Not the marketing
man’s ideal title, is it the stuff of nostalgia for many nonetheless.
Throughout Germany, Austria, and Denmark, there are many variations,
some thickened with sago starch, some with gelatin, and some with
cornstarch. This recipe uses potato flour, sometimes sold by its French name
“fécule de pommes de terre.” Raspberries are the only essential ingredient,
with whatever else you want to keep them company. The objective is a
slightly thickened pudding with a consistency almost like oatmeal.
2 tbsp potato flour
11⁄4 cups water
2 cups raspberries
11⁄2 cups red currants
3⁄4 cup sugar
squeeze of lemon juice
few drops of vanilla extract
1Combine the potato flour and 2 Whisk the flour solution again,
3⁄4 cup of the water in a small then stir into the fruit. Bring
bowl and whisk to dissolve. Bring back to a boil to thicken. Add the
the fruit, sugar, and remaining water lemon juice and vanilla extract.
to a boil in a medium saucepan. Decant into a serving dish and cool.
FIG COMPOTE
If fruit is to be kept for any time, they have to be preserved to stay in perfect 4 cups water
condition. For this compote of figs, use heat-resistant canning jars that 21⁄2 cups sugar
have a rubber seal, and wash and sterilize the jars before use. Most fruits 1 tsp lemon juice
with a reasonably firm texture can be substituted for the figs. Pears and 3 cinnamon sticks
peaches work very well. Like figs, they need to be poached until tender. 61⁄2lb (3kg) figs, stems removed and poached in water
Cherries can be made into compote without poaching. The flavor of the to cover until tender, 10–15 minutes, then drained
syrup can be tailored to your own taste by adding, say, preserved ginger to
syrup for pears or vanilla to syrup for cherries.
1Bring the water, sugar, lemon, 2 Seal the jars and place in a pan
and cinnamon to a boil. Fill the half-full of water. Bring to a
sterilized jars with the poached figs, boil, then cover and reduce the heat.
then pour in the hot syrup. Simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool.
SIGNATURE Poached pears with cinnamon ice cream
DISH
The choice of pear variety is important for this dessert: Bartlett pears are the best
suited to poaching. The recipe works equally well made with red wine, but produces a
slightly different dish—not just darker, but with the wine dominating the delicate pear
flavor. The ice cream recipe produces about 1 quart (1 liter). It may be more than
needed, but it is really not worth making less. If you do not have an ice cream
machine, whisk periodically while the ice cream is freezing, to break up the ice crystals.
Made this way it will have the texture of a parfait rather than ice cream.
4 small or 2 large, firm or under-ripe pears point, then whisk slowly into the egg and Be sure the pears are covered with
sugar mixture. Return the mixture to poaching syrup so they don’t discolor
2 cups white wine a clean saucepan, preferably one with
rounded edges so that the custard does
6 tbsp sugar not coagulate in the corners. Stir slowly
over a low heat until the custard
strip of lemon peel thickens perceptibly, 5–8 minutes.
The custard must not come to a boil
For the ice cream or it will curdle.
21⁄2 cups whole milk Strain the custard into a bowl and let cool,
then chill, preferably overnight. When very
11⁄4 cups heavy cream cold, churn in an ice cream machine.
11⁄4 cups sugar Serve each pear next to or fanned across
a scoop of the ice cream, with the
4 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces poaching liquid as a sauce.
1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise
6 egg yolks
Peel the pears. If they are large enough to make
two portions apiece, then core and halve them.
Place the pears in a saucepan and add the wine,
sugar, lemon peel, and enough water to cover
the fruit. Bring to a boil, then immediately
reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and poach
until soft, 15–20 minutes—the timing will vary
with the size, variety, and ripeness of the pears.
Let the pears cool in the poaching liquid.
For the ice cream, heat the milk and cream
with 3 tbsp of the sugar, the cinnamon, and
vanilla. Bring to just below boiling point,
then cover and let infuse off the heat
for about 20 minutes.
Whisk the remaining sugar with the
egg yolks in a bowl. Reheat the
milk mixture to near boiling
624 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
BAKING FRUIT potato—the flesh disintegrates into a soft, tart mush during baking
and takes on the flavor of whatever sugars, dried fruit, and spices
Peaches and nectarines are well suited to baking (or roasting with with it. In North America, for baking choose a variety of apple that is
a coating of oil or butter to caramelize the outside), but the star firm, tart, and characterful, such as Rome Beauty or McIntosh.
baking performer is the apple. The finest cooking apple variety in
Britain is the Bramley. It is the fruit equivalent of a floury baking
BAKED APPLES
4 firm, tart apples
1⁄4 cup sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp golden raisins
1Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Core the
apples, stopping just short of the base, but do
not peel them. Mix the sugar, cinnamon, and
raisins together and use to fill each core cavity.
2 Make a small incision around the middle
of each apple to prevent it from bursting.
Place in a baking dish or pan and bake for
1 hour. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.
FRYING FRUIT ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 625
BAKED PEACHES FRYING FRUIT
WITH AMARETTI
Banana and pineapple are often served as fritters, but apples, pears, peaches, rhubarb,
In Italy, roasting and baking are regular treatments and oranges work just as well. A light batter is essential to success, and the fritters should
for peaches. This recipe fills peach halves with be dry and crisp with no hint of greasiness. A bland oil, such as sunflower or corn oil,
ground amaretti cookies, which are usually sold works best for frying fritters, as it provides no additional flavor. These oils also have high
attractively wrapped in pairs, like candy. smoke points—they survive high temperatures before burning. Heat the oil to about 375°F
(190°C). When the oil is hot, its surface should be still and not giving off any sign of smoke.
4 ripe peaches If the oil becomes too hot, correct it by adding a little more oil.
8 amaretti cookies
1⁄4 cup sugar BANANA OR PINEAPPLE FRITTERS
seeds from 1 vanilla bean (p110)
1 egg yolk Fritters rarely suit an accompanying sauce— 1For the batter, mix the milk or water, flour,
2 tbsp unsalted butter certainly never a custard—and are best just and oil together until smooth. In a separate
dusted with granulated or confectioners’ sugar bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Add a pinch
1Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Cut the before serving. This still leaves scope for vanilla of salt and the sugar to the egg whites at the
peaches in half and remove the pits. Enlarge or cinnamon sugar, if that partners the fruit in final stages of beating. Fold the egg whites into
the space left by the pits by removing 1 tsp of question to its advantage. the milk, flour, and oil mixture.
peach flesh from each half; reserve this. Grind
the cookies to the consistency of fine crumbs in 6 bananas or 12 pineapple rings
a food processer. Take care not to overprocess. 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar
2 tbsp kirsch (optional)
oil for deep-frying 2 Sprinkle the fruit with the sugar and the
For the batter kirsch (if using), then dip into the batter. Fry
2⁄3 cup low-fat milk or water in hot oil until golden brown, 3–5 minutes. Drain.
1 cup self-rising flour
1 tbsp olive oil
2 egg whites
1 tsp superfine sugar
2 Mix the peach pulp, sugar, vanilla seeds, and
egg yolk with the amaretti crumbs. Butter a
baking dish and place the peaches cut-side up in
the dish. Spoon the amaretti mixture into the
cavities in the peach halves and dot with the
butter. Bake until the peaches are soft and the
filling crusty, about 40 minutes. Serve hot.
626 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
STEAMED & BOILED PUDDINGS
Steamed puddings and dumplings are made from similar mixtures or steamer regularly to be sure that it hasn’t boiled dry. The size of
of flour and fat as puddings that are baked. But steaming is a the pudding and its content will decide cooking times—a family-
slower process, and you will need to check water levels in the pan sized Christmas or plum pudding will need 6 hours or more.
PLUM DUMPLINGS
This is a Hungarian dish in which the plums
are covered in a potato dough and then boiled.
In Hungary, they roll the dumplings in fried
bread crumbs, but for me this is too hefty.
8 plums 2 Add as much flour as needed to form a firm
1⁄4 cup granulated sugar dough, then roll it out as thinly as possible
1 tsp ground cinnamon and cut into eight squares. Wrap each plum in
1lb 2oz (500g) potatoes, peeled and boiled a dough square and seal all the edges. Drop the
2 tbsp butter, softened dumplings into a pan of boiling water and cook
1 egg until they rise to the top, about 5 minutes.
3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
1 tbsp ground poppy seeds 3 Lift out the dumplings with a slotted spoon
1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar, sifted and dust with a mixture of ground poppy
seeds and confectioners’ sugar.
1Dig out the plum pits with a sharp knife and
fill the plums with the sugar and cinnamon.
Rice the potatoes into a bowl. Using a fork, mix
in the butter, egg, and a pinch of salt.
STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING
This dessert comes from the late Francis Coulson of Sharrow Bay in England’s Lake District. He may
have invented the recipe or collected it locally. However it originated, it is now standard in the UK.
Serves 6 1Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). To make
For the sponge cake batter the batter, cream together the butter and
5 tbsp unsalted butter sugar until fluffy. Beat in the eggs, then fold in
1 cup sugar the flour. Bring the water to a boil in a small
3 eggs pan. Add the chopped dates and simmer for
11⁄2 cups self-rising flour, sifted 2 minutes, until soft. Remove from the heat
11⁄2 cups water and add the baking powder.
1 heaped cup coarsely chopped dates
11⁄2 tsp baking powder 2 Stir the date mixture into the batter, then
For the sauce pour into a deep, 9in (23cm) square baking
1⁄3 cup packed dark brown or Demerara sugar dish. Bake until set, about 30 minutes.
11⁄4 cups heavy cream or condensed milk
4 tbsp unsalted butter 3 Stir all the sauce ingredients together in a
pan and bring to a boil. Pour half of the
sauce onto the cake, then put it back into the
oven for 2 minutes so the sauce can soak in. Cut
into squares and serve with the remaining sauce.
SIGNATURE Steamed orange pudding
DISH
This traditional British steamed pudding is usually made with suet (hard kidney fat), but a
softer, lighter texture can be obtained with butter. This recipe calls for individual molds, of a
size and type sometimes known as dariole molds. Alternatively, the batter can be steamed
in a larger steamed-pudding basin, then divided into portions for serving. In a larger mold it
will need longer cooking, about 11⁄2 hours. If you don’t have a steamer, or your steamer is
too small, place the molds in a roasting pan half-filled with boiling water and bake in a
preheated 400°F (200°C) oven for 40 minutes.
7 tbsp unsalted butter, softened Cream the butter and sugar together until Spoon the batter on top of the syrup
1⁄2 cup sugar fluffy, then mix in the flour and baking
2⁄3 cup self-rising flour powder. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, then
1⁄2 tsp baking powder add the milk and orange zest and juice.
2 eggs
2 tbsp low-fat milk Butter the inside of four dariole molds or
grated zest and juice of 2 oranges ramekin dishes. Put 1 tbsp of golden syrup
4 tbsp golden syrup or light corn syrup in each mold, then pour in the batter. Cover
cream or crème anglaise (p562) for serving the molds with foil.
Place the molds on the rack of a steamer over
boiling water and steam for 40 minutes.
Unmold the puddings into warmed bowls.
Serve with cream or crème anglaise, if desired.
628 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
NUTS FOR SWEET USE be made into a “milk” by finely grinding the nuts and steeping in
boiling water, then straining (see below). Vegans and those with
The most versatile nuts for candies and deserts are almonds— dairy allergies can use a nut milk like soymilk.
sweetened almond preparations are a cornerstone of every classic
pastry and confectionery kitchen. Both almonds and walnuts can
PREPARING ALMONDS Slicing
You can buy almonds already blanched and skinned, sliced, chopped, and ground, but it is easy to
prepare them yourself. Dry-roasting (p632) intensifies their flavor and adds crunch.
Blanching
1Place the almonds in a bowl and cover with 2 Pinch each almond between your thumbs Use a large, sharp knife and hold each nut flat
boiling water. Leave them for 2–3 minutes, and index fingers to slip the nut out of the on the cutting board. Cut into slices of the
then drain in a colander. Set aside until the skin. Alternatively, rub the nuts in a kitchen required thickness. To sliver almonds, cut each
almonds are cool enough to handle. towel (p630) to remove the skins. slice lengthwise into fine sticks.
Chopping Grinding Making almond milk
Using a large, sharp knife, chop the nuts into Grind almonds (and other nuts) in a rotary nut Put ground almonds in a bowl and cover with
pieces of the required size—coarse or fine— mill or food processor to the consistency of fine double their volume of boiling water. Let steep,
guiding the knife with your knuckles. Other bread crumbs. If using a food processor, take covered, for 30 minutes. Pour the mixture into
nuts can be chopped in the same way. care not to overprocess, as nuts release their a fine-mesh strainer held over a bowl. Press the
natural oils during grinding and you could end ground nuts in the strainer to extract all of the
up with a nut butter. milk, then discard the nuts.
NUTS FOR SWEET USE ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 629
PRALINE
As in any specialized craft, there is a jargon used
in pastrymaking. A mixture of caramelized
sugar and almonds is known as croquant or
nougat, and is used for petits fours (small fancy
cookies) and to make baskets to serve them in.
Once crushed or ground into a paste, croquant
changes its name to praline, which flavors tarts,
soufflés, and ice cream.
21⁄2 cups sugar
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
4 cups sliced almonds or 2 cups
chopped almonds
1Stir the sugar and lemon juice in a pot over
a gentle heat until the sugar melts into syrup.
(A few drops of water may make this easier, but
slows the process, as the water has to evaporate
before the sugar will caramelize.) Bring the
melted sugar to a boil, then cook until pale
amber in color, about 20 minutes.
2 Warm the almonds, then add them to the sugar and cook for a 3 Grind the croquant in a food processor or
moment. Pour the mixture into an oiled pan, and let cool and set. mill. The resulting paste is praline.
630 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
BAKED ALMOND PUDDING NOUGAT
MONTELIMAR
Bitter almonds, which have a stronger flavor 1⁄2 cup + 1 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
than sweet almonds, are not available for sale 3 cups ground almonds In my childhood, this confection was sold in
in the U.S. and Canada. However, bitter almond 2 tbsp heavy cream candy stores everywhere. It has improved its
extract can be found, and this can add depth to 1 tbsp Cognac status in the meantime and can now be found
a sweet almond preparation. If you can track grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon gracing the petits fours selection in grand
down bitter almond extract, add a few drops to 1⁄3 cup sugar plus extra for sprinkling restaurants. The recipe calls for pistachio nuts.
the batter for this dessert. 2 eggs The unsalted variety—which is what you
2 egg yolks need—comes shelled, but with a pale outer
1Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). In a skin that has to be removed (see below). Use the
mixing bowl, stir together the melted butter, bright green nuts whole. You need edible rice
almonds, cream, Cognac, lemon zest, and sugar. paper (or plastic wrap) to line the pan.
Stir in the whole eggs and yolks.
Makes about 21⁄4lb (1kg)
2 Oil or butter a shallow baking dish and
pour in the batter. Bake for 40 minutes. 2 cups sugar
Sprinkle with sugar before serving.
1⁄2 cup water
1⁄3 cup clear honey
1 tbsp liquid glucose or light corn syrup
11⁄2 egg whites, precise weight 11⁄2oz (45g)
1⁄3 cup coarsely chopped candied cherries
1⁄2 cup shelled unsalted pistachio nuts
1⁄3 cup sliced almonds
1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped almonds
SKINNING PISTACHIOS
Blanch as for almonds (p628), then rub the skins off
between sheets of paper towel or a dish towel.
NUTS FOR SWEET USE ୵ FRUIT & NUTS 631
1Dissolve the sugar in the water in a pot, then 2 Add the honey and glucose, and boil until 3 Warm the cherries and nuts, then stir into
bring rapidly to a boil. Boil until the syrup the syrup reaches 275°F (135°C). Beat the the mixture. Line a shallow pan with rice
reaches 224°F (107°C). The water will have egg white to stiff peaks. Remove the syrup from paper. Pour the nougat into the pan and spread
evaporated by this stage, and the hot, liquid the heat and spoon the egg white on top, beating evenly, then cover with more rice paper. Press
sugar will have begun a series of changes that constantly. This is best done with a portable the surface with a weighted flat board and let
thicken and eventually color it. At this point it electric mixer at maximum speed. cool overnight. To serve, cut the nougat into
should not show any sign of caramelization. small rectangles with a knife dipped in hot water.
632 FRUIT & NUTS ୴ SHAUN HILL
NUTS FOR USE IN SAVORY DISHES
Many nuts can be used in savory dishes as well as sweet ones. to flavor meringues. Nuts can also be used as a flour substitute or
Hazelnuts, for instance, can be toasted and then tossed with in stuffings. Bear in mind when substituting ground nuts for any dry
Brussels sprouts to partner game or poultry, or ground and used ingredient that their natural oils will soften the texture of the dish.
CRACKING HARD- PARSLEY & SCALLION TART
SHELLED NUTS WITH WALNUT PASTRY
You need a nutcracker to crack the hard shells of Substituting ground walnuts for some of the flour in this pastry imparts an interesting taste and
nuts such as pecans, walnuts, and Brazil nuts. texture. The pastry is easier to handle if made in advance, then rested in the refrigerator for an hour
Use a small hammer for macadamias. or so, plus another hour’s resting after lining the pan. Grind the walnuts in the same way as almonds
(p628), pulsing the nuts to avoid overworking them. Also, be sure that the food processor is
DRY-ROASTING OR completely dry before putting in the nuts to grind.
TOASTING NUTS
For the pastry 1Mix the butter with the egg and a pinch of
Browning nuts enriches their flavor and makes 11⁄2 cups (170g) unsalted butter, at room salt. Add the flour and walnuts, and knead
them more crunchy. This method is also used temperature once or twice to combine the ingredients evenly.
for removing the papery skins from hazelnuts, 1 medium egg Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
walnuts, and peanuts. Spread the nuts in a 1 cup (150g) all-purpose flour
baking pan and dry-roast in a preheated 350°F 11⁄4 cups (100 g) ground walnuts 2 Roll out the pastry and line a 10in (25cm)
(180°C) oven, or under the broiler, until golden, For the filling tart pan. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Preheat the
7–12 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to turn 3 eggs and 1 egg yolk oven to 400°F (200°C), then bake the pastry
the nuts. To remove skins, wrap the nuts in a 11⁄4 cups heavy cream shell for 15 minutes. If the side of the shell has
coarse kitchen cloth and rub vigorously. 3 tbsp low-fat milk slid down a bit, repair any gaps with pieces of
1 heaping tbsp chopped parsley leftover pastry. Let the shell cool for 10 minutes.
6 scallions, chopped Turn the oven down to 350°F (180°C).
1⁄4 cup grated Cheddar cheese
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 3 Whisk all the filling ingredients together and
season. Place the pastry shell on a baking
sheet on the lower shelf of the oven and pour in
the filling. Bake until the filling is set but still soft
and lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes.
PREPARING FRESH
CHESTNUTS
Chestnuts are available fresh, as well as canned
whole, in pieces, or as a purée. To shell and skin
fresh chestnuts, you first need to roast them—by
heating them under the broiler, on a griddle, in
an open fire, or in the oven—or you can blanch
them in boiling water.
1Before roasting or blanching, pierce the top
of each chestnut with the point of a sharp
knife to prevent it from exploding when hot.
CHESTNUT STUFFING
2 Broil the chestnuts until the shells split, The stuffings that partner the Thanksgiving or 1Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Heat the
about 3 minutes. When cool enough to Christmas bird are often more interesting than butter in a medium pan, add the shallot, and
handle, peel off the shell and the inner skin. the birds themselves. This stuffing goes well with sweat until soft but not colored. Remove from
Alternatively, blanch the chestnuts by bringing both goose and turkey, but is fine with chicken the heat. Stir in all the remaining ingredients
them to a boil in a pan of water. Remove a few or any white game bird, too. If you do not want and add salt and pepper to taste.
at a time and peel before they cool down. to use fresh chestnuts, you can substitute canned
whole chestnuts (unsweetened). 2 Roll the stuffing in a sheet of well-buttered
3 To use in the stuffing (right), coarsely chop foil into the shape of a thick sausage. Bake
the chestnuts with a sharp knife. Serves 6 for 1 hour. Serve cut in thick slices.
2 tbsp butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
14oz (400g) fresh pork sausage meat
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
2 apples, peeled, cored, and diced
1 pear, peeled, cored, and diced
11⁄4 cups coarsely chopped chestnuts (see left)
634 GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
Acidulate To add an acid such as lemon juice or Brioche A lightly sweetened, butter-rich yeast Clarify To skim or filter a liquid, such as a
vinegar to cooking or soaking water to prevent bread, served plain or toasted, with jam for consommé or melted butter, until it is clear and
vegetables or fruit from discoloring. breakfast or with foie gras and strong cheeses free of impurities. Egg whites are sometimes
for lunch or dinner. used to clarify consommé because they can
Al dente Literally “to the tooth.” Pasta, rice, and entrap particulate matter. To clarify butter it is
vegetables may be cooked until al dente, which Brunoise Very finely diced vegetables. gently heated until the milk solids separate from
is until just tender yet still offering a slight the clear liquid fat, which can then be poured off.
resistance when you bite into them. Buckwheat A grain used to make flour for pasta,
dumplings, blini, and Japanese soba noodles. Compote Fruits poached gently in a sugar syrup
Amaretti Small, crisp almond cookies, which are so they keep their shape.
sometimes sold in attractively wrapped in pairs. Bulgur wheat Also burghul and bulgar, wheat
grains that are boiled until they crack. Bulgur is a Confit Meat or poultry cooked in its own fat to
Annatto and annatto oil Orange-red seeds from staple in the Middle East and used to make preserve it.
a small tropical tree, used to give color to Asian kibbeh and tabbouleh.
and Latin American cooking. Fat or oil in which Coral The eggs of crustaceans such as scallops
the seeds have been fried turns deep orange. Butterfly To remove the backbone from a bird and lobster.
and then flatten it; to bone a leg of lamb and
Armagnac A brandy from southwestern France, flatten it; and to split open a shrimp. Cornichons The French name for gherkins,
sometimes used to flavor desserts or pâtés. these are small, crisp, tart pickles.
Buttermilk Originally a by-product of butter-
Aspic Savory jelly made from meat, fish, or making, today it is made by adding bacteria to Cornmeal Fine, medium, or coarse meal ground
vegetable stock, usually set with gelatin. milk to thicken and sour it. from dried corn. In North America, it is used to
make cornbread and other breads; in northern
Bake blind To prebake a pastry shell without the Caramel Sugar syrup heated above 313ºF Italy, it is known as polenta and cooked to make
filling, either partially or completely. The pastry (156°C) until it contains very little water and takes a dish of the same name.
shell is lined with paper and weighted down with on a darker color. Caramel is used as a topping
beans to prevent it from losing its shape. for desserts and to make candy. Cornstarch A fine, white powder obtained from
corn that is used to thicken sauces. It needs to
Baste To spoon fat or a liquid over food as it Caramelize To heat a food until its surface be mixed with cold water before being heated.
cooks to prevent it from drying out and to sugars break down and turn brown. Both savory
enhance the flavor. and sweet foods can be caramelized. Court bouillon A poaching stock, most
commonly used for cooking fish.
Beurre manié Meaning “kneaded butter,” this Cartouche A disk of parchment paper cut to fit
paste of butter and flour is added at the end of a pan and laid directly on the surface of food, to Couscous A mixture of fine and coarse
cooking to thicken a sauce. prevent evaporation and to keep it from drying semolina, in which the finer flour binds itself
out during cooking. around the coarser grains to form granules.
Bhuna An Indian sautéing technique that lightly Traditional couscous takes a long time to cook,
toasts spices, releasing their essential oils to Cassava A root vegetable that is a staple in but instant couscous is pre-cooked and needs
flavor meat, fish, or vegetable dishes. Africa and Central and South America. only to be rehydrated.
Bitter almond extract A flavoring made from Caul The lacy, fatty membrane that encases the Couverture A high-quality chocolate that melts
bitter almonds that can add depth and balance stomach of a pig. It can be used to wrap cuts of and coats easily to give a glossy finish.
when used with sweet almonds. meat and pâtés; the melting caul keeps the food
lubricated as it cooks. Crème anglaise A thin, vanilla-flavored egg-
Blanch To immerse in boiling water for a very custard sauce, served warm or cold with many
short time. Blanching is done to set color Ceviche A South American and Caribbean desserts; also used as a base for ice cream.
(vegetables); to eliminate strong flavors (some technique of “cooking” seafood without heat. A
vegetables, sweetbreads); and to loosen skins lime juice marinade partially cooks thinly sliced Crème fraîche A fermented, thickened cream
before peeling (tomatoes, drupe fruit such as raw fish, which is served cold, sometimes with a tangy flavor.
peaches, some nuts). accompanied by boiled vegetables or salad.
Croquant Sugar and nuts, usually almonds,
Bonito A fish from the tuna family. Dried bonito Chiffonade Shredded herbs or leafy vegetables. caramelized together and used to make petits
flakes are an important component of Japanese The leaves are piled on top of each other, rolled fours and sweet baskets. Once crushed or milled
dashi stock. up tightly, and cut across into strips. into a paste, it is known as praline.
GLOSSARY 635
Croûtons Small cubes of bread fried until crisp. Fingerroot (krachai) A lemon-flavored rhizome Heritage varieties Vegetables and fruit that have
used in Southeast Asian cooking. not been hybridized to “improve” them. They
Crustaceans Shellfish, such as lobsters, shrimp, often have a more natural, less-than-perfect
and crabs, which have an exterior skeleton, Flour All-purpose flour, used for most cooking, appearance.
segmented body, and jointed limbs. contains a blend of high-gluten hard wheat and
low-gluten soft wheat. Cake and pastry flours, Jicama A bulb-shaped root vegetable native to
Cure To add flavor and to preserve fish, poultry, which are used for many cakes and pastries, are Mexico, and also used in Southeast Asian
and meat by drying, salting, and smoking or by soft-wheat flours. Italian “00,” or “doppio zero,” cooking. It has crunchy flesh with a sweet flavor.
marinating in an escabeche or ceviche. flour is used mainly for pasta. Bread flour has a
high proportion of gluten, which makes it ideal Jus French term for a light sauce produced by
Cutlet A thin cut of meat, often chicken or veal, for yeast doughs. Rye flour comes in light or reducing a well-flavored stock. If thickened, it is
flattened to tenderize it and to help the meat dark varieties. called a jus lié.
cook evenly.
Foam A purée, cream, or liquid mixed with Kadhai An Indian wok. Kadhai cooking
Daikon A white radish, also known as mooli. It is gelatin and put into a siphon to whip air into it. combines stir-frying and sautéing, and uses
particularly popular in Japan, where it is often Foams are served hot or cold. specific spices.
shredded and eaten raw.
Foie gras The fattened liver of a duck or goose. Kaffir lime A knobbly citrus fruit, the leaves and
Dashi A tuna and seaweed-based fish stock Goose liver is the more expensive and more zest of which are used in Southeast Asian
used in Japanese cooking. pronounced in flavor. cooking, particularly the cuisine of Thailand.
Deglaze To use the caramelized juices released Fumet Concentrated fish stock. Kirsch A clear “eau-de-vie” (colorless brandy or
by roasted or fried meat, or vegetables, to make spirit) made from black cherries.
a sauce or gravy. A pan is deglazed by adding Galangal A rhizome with a spicy-hot flavor, used
stock, water, or wine and scraping it to loosen in Southeast Asian cooking. It is prepared in a Labne A creamy, often herb-flavored, yogurt
the juices and sediment that stick to the bottom. similar way to raw ginger root. cheese from the Middle East.
Devein To remove the dark vein from shrimp. Ganache A rich chocolate cream that is used to Leaven (natural leaven) A living mixture of flour
fill cakes, decorate desserts and pastries, and and water that causes breads to rise without
Durum wheat The hardest of all wheat grains make truffles. the use of commercial yeast. It is also called a
with a high proportion of gluten, durum wheat is sourdough starter.
mostly used to make dried pasta. Garam masala Meaning “hot mixture,” this spice
blend from northern India is usually added at the Legumes An excellent source of protein,
Duxelles A classic mixture of cooked chopped end of cooking. vitamins, and fiber, the legume family includes
mushrooms and shallots. peas and lentils as well as beans.
Gelatin A setting agent available in sheet or
Egg wash A glaze made from egg or egg yolk granulated form; it must be soaked in cold water Lemon-grass A thick grass used in Thai cooking
and water or milk, brushed on foods before baking before being dissolved in a warm liquid. to add a lemon flavor and aroma.
to encourage browning.
Ghee A clarified butter used in Indian cooking Liaison A thickening agent, most often a mixture
Emulsion A suspension of droplets of fat, such and capable of being heated to a high of eggs and cream, that is added to soups or
as oil or melted butter, in liquids such as water, temperature without burning. sauces at the end of cooking.
vinegar, or lemon juice. Emulsified sauces include
mayonnaise and hollandaise. Glucose A thick liquid added to sugar syrups to Malt syrup Also called malt extract, a thick,
reduce the risk of crystallization. Corn syrup is a sweet liquid made from barley that, when added
En papillote To cook foods by sealing them in a form of glucose made from cornstarch. to bread, gives extra flavor and a good texture.
package (a “papillote”) so as to retain texture,
flavor, and aroma. Gum arabic A powdered, tasteless gum that is Marinade A liquid for soaking or basting that
used to thicken and emulsify foods, and prevents adds flavor to food and protects it from drying
Epazote A wild Mexican herb with an earthy, sugar from crystallizing. Available from specialist out. If the marinade has an acid component, it
pungent, and slightly bitter taste. candymaking suppliers. can also have a tenderizing effect on meat,
poultry, and fish.
Escabeche Fried or poached fish pickled in a Gut To remove the viscera (everything in the
spicy warm vinegar and served cold as an stomach cavity) of a whole fish before cooking. Masa harina A finely ground powder made from
appetizer. Vegetables and chilies may also be corn that has been simmered with mineral lime,
pickled in this way. Hang To let meat hang after slaughter to then dehydrated. Masa harina is used throughout
disperse the lactic acid present in muscles, Mexico, Central America, and South America to
Fillet A boneless piece of fish or meat. maximize tenderness, and enhance flavor. make tortillas.
636 GLOSSARY
Mastic An earthy Mediterranean bush resin used Nori Dark, paper-thin sheets of dried seaweed, Praline Nuts, especially almonds, that have been
mostly to flavor and thicken sweet dishes in the used in Japanese cooking to wrap sushi. If not caramelized in boiling sugar and then crushed to
Middle East. bought toasted, the sheets need to be lightly a paste. See also Croquant.
toasted before use.
Matzo Unleavened Jewish flat bread that Prosciutto The Italian word for ham, prosciutto
resembles a cracker and is traditionally eaten Palm sugar A sugar obtained from the sap of normally refers to salt-cured and air-dried ham.
during Passover. Matzo is also ground into a sugar palm trees and used in Southeast Asian That from Parma is the true prosciutto.
meal and used to make matzo balls, called cooking. It is usually sold in a block, and is
“kneidlach” in Yiddish. added to sweet and savory dishes. There are Purge To prepare mollusks such as clams for
pale and dark versions of palm sugar. cooking by putting them in a large bowl of cold
Meringue A light-as-air mixture of stiffly beaten water with some cornmeal and letting them soak
egg whites and sugar, baked for a dessert or Pancetta Italian cured pork belly, similar to overnight in the refrigerator. The mollusks eat the
used as a topping for tarts. bacon but not smoked. It is used to flavor pasta meal and expel the sand.
sauces and vegetable and meat dishes.
Mezze An array of little Middle Eastern Quenelles Small oval shapes, traditionally made
appetizers that might include olives, dips, Parboil To partially cook in boiling water. from a seafood mousseline, poached and served
meatballs, or stuffed grape leaves. in a bouillon or with a sauce.
Parfait In French cooking, a dessert similar to ice
Mirepoix A mixture of diced or chopped cream made from custard enriched with cream Quick bread A bread raised with a leavening
aromatic vegetables, usually carrots, onions, and flavorings such as fruit purée. agent such as baking soda or baking powder
and celery, used as a flavoring. instead of yeast.
Parmigiano Reggiano The true Italian Parmesan
Mirin A sweet Japanese rice alcohol used cheese, which is often aged for 2 years and Radicchio Italian red-leafed chicory, which can
exclusively in cooking, and particularly in sauces, sometimes longer. Available in specialty cheese be eaten raw in salads, or braised or sautéed.
marinades, and stir-fries. stores and Italian supermarkets.
RAW A style of vegetable preparation where
Miso A paste made from fermented soybeans Pâte French for paste or pastry (also batter or nothing is heated above 118°F (48°C) to prevent
used in Japanese cooking as a flavoring and as dough). Pâte brisée is basic short pastry; pâte enzymes from being destroyed and food from
a condiment. sucrée is sweet pastry. losing its nutritional value. Techniques include
sprouting nuts and beans, and marinating
Mole A smooth, rich, dark Mexican sauce of Pâtisserie The art of pastrymaking and a vegetables to break down their undesirable
which there are many variations. Most moles collective name for the cakes and pastries sold in starchy complexity.
contain a small amount of chocolate. a shop that is also called a pâtisserie.
Reduce To boil rapidly in order to evaporate
Mollusk A soft-bodied creature that usually has Pea eggplant A small, grapelike variety of excess liquid. Reducing intensifies flavor.
a hard shell. Mollusks include single-shell eggplant with a bitter taste, used in Thai cooking.
univalves, such as conch; two-shell bivalves, Refresh To cool in cold or ice water. This stops
such as mussels; and cephalopods, such as Petits fours Small, fancy cookies or cakes the cooking process and cools food quickly.
octopus and squid, which don’t have a shell. served at the end of a meal.
Rehydrate To add water to a food that has been
Morels Stubby, short wild mushrooms that Pickle To preserve or cure foods, especially firm dried, such as mushrooms, to reconstitute it.
resemble sponges. vegetables, in a brine or acid to give a sweet-
and-sour taste. Render To gently melt fat from birds such as
Mount To emulsify a sauce and make it richer duck and goose or from bacon (bacon grease).
and more glossy by whisking in small pieces of Pilaf A method of cooking rice so that every Once strained, the rendered fat can be used for
butter. Also, adding volume to egg whites or grain remains separate, and also the name of the frying and roasting.
cream by beating in air. resulting dish. Pilafs can be plain or flavored with
meat or vegetables. Rest To allow food to stand. Meat is rested after
Mousseline A very light, delicate mixture of roasting to relax the muscles so juices are retained
puréed seafood, meat, or foie gras and cream, Plantain A fruit similar to a banana, which is within the meat. If meat is rested, the taste and
often shaped into quenelles and poached. Also, eaten throughout Latin America. It is always used texture are better, and carving is easier. Pastry
any sauce lightened with whipped cream or stiffly cooked. Maduro plantains are very ripe and have dough is rested before rolling out so the flour
beaten egg whites. extremely dark skins. gluten can relax. A batter is rested before cooking
so the flour particles can expand in the liquid.
Nam pla (fish sauce) A strong flavoring made Porcini Also known by their French name cèpes,
from salted, fermented fish, used in Southeast porcini are an excellent species of boletus fungi. Rice vinegar Usually mildly acidic and sweet,
Asian cooking. They are used fresh or dried to give a rich flavor varieties include Chinese red, black, and white
to a variety of dishes. vinegars and Japanese kinds based on mirin.
GLOSSARY 637
Risotto A rice dish from northern Italy in which Smoked sweet paprika Also called “pimentón,” Temper To mix something until it reaches the
hot stock is stirred gradually into short-grain this is a mild Spanish paprika ground from correct consistency. Chocolate is tempered by
risotto rice until the grains are creamy, but still aromatic sweet red peppers. heating and cooling until its fat stabilizes and it
firm and separate. becomes glossy and malleable.
Sofrito/Soffrito An initial aromatic mixture that
Roasted shrimp paste (kapi) A strong-flavored provides the base for many savory dishes. It is Tofu Also called bean curd, tofu is made from
paste made from salted and fermented dried of European origin (sofrito is the Spanish word, soybeans in a similar way to the preparation of
shrimp; used in Southeast Asian cooking. soffrito the Italian), but is also very important in curd cheeses. Tofu absorbs flavors easily and is
Latin American cooking, where chilies, ginger, used widely in Southeast Asian cooking.
Roe Fish eggs, which may be hard (from the and other ingredients are often added.
female) or soft (from the male, also called milt). Tomatillo A green husk tomato that is a distant
If roe is salted it becomes caviar. Soft-shell crab A blue crab that has molted its relative of the tomato. Its citrus flavor is often
shell and is in the process of hardening its skin combined with cilantro in Mexican cooking.
Roux A cooked mixture of butter and flour used to form a new shell. The entire crab is eaten.
to thicken sauces such as béchamel. Tortilla Corn or wheat flat bread that forms an
Sous vide French for “under vacuum.” A gentle essential part of Mexican cooking. Also, in Spain,
Saffron threads The dried red stigmas of the way of cooking food, especially vegetables, by an unfolded omelet that traditionally contains
saffron crocus. One of the most expensive sealing them in a plastic container or bag with potatoes and onions.
spices in the world, saffron adds color and a flavorings and a small amount of water or stock,
warm, musky flavor to food. then immersing in hot water. Tourner A cutting technique that involves
shaving pieces of vegetable into seven-sided
Salsify A long, slim root vegetable with a waxy Spaetzle Squiggly dumplings made from a oval shapes. Often used for roots and tubers.
texture. The variety with grayish skin is also batterlike dough pressed through the holes of a
known as oyster plant; the black-skinned variety special strainer into simmering water. Tunnel-bone To take the bones out of a cut of
is also called scorzonera. meat, without slitting it open, so that the tunnel
Squab A young domesticated pigeon that has created can be stuffed.
Sanshô leaves The leaves of a Japanese prickly dark, tender meat with a delicate flavor. Do not
ash, used in Japanese cooking as a garnish. confuse with squab chicken. Turmeric A rhizome that is an important spice
and food coloring, particularly in Indian cooking.
Sashimi Japanese dish of raw sliced seafood Star anise A star-shaped, anise-flavored spice In Thailand, the red (yellow) variety is added to
presented artfully on platters with condiments that is used in Asian cooking. curry pastes, while a white variety is eaten raw
such as pickled ginger and grated daikon, and as a vegetable.
dipping sauces that include wasabi. Stewing hen An older chicken, also called a
boiling fowl, with good flavor but tough meat. Vanilla sugar Granulated or confectioners’ sugar
Screwpine leaf A long green leaf, also called Best used for stocks and soups. flavored by leaving a vanilla bean in it.
pandanus, used in Southeast Asian cooking to
wrap food and to flavor rice dishes and sweets. Streusel A crumbly topping sprinkled over tarts, Wasabi The root of an Asian herb that is grated
cakes, and muffins. to make a hot green paste to be served with
Semolina The endosperm of durum wheat, sushi and sashimi.
available in a variety of grinds and primarily used Suet The hard white fat that surrounds sheep or
to make pasta. See also Couscous. beef kidneys. Finely chopped fresh suet is used Water bath A shallow pan of water, also called a
to make pastry, mincemeat, and stuffings. bain marie, in which a container of food is set for
Shiitake Brown cap mushrooms that can be cooking—in the oven or on the stovetop—or to
bought fresh or dried and are often used in Sugar syrup Sugar and water cooked together keep the food warm.
Southeast Asian cooking. to different temperatures to produce varying
concentrations of syrup for pâtisserie, Yeast A living organism that uses the natural
Shuck To remove the outer covering, such as confectionery, and chocolate products. sugars in a mixture to create alcohol and carbon
the shells of oysters or scallops, or the husks dioxide. This process makes bread rise and
and silk from ears of corn. Sushi Japanese preparation of raw seafood and gives beer and champagne their fizz. Yeast can
vinegared rice, sometimes wrapped in nori be bought as compressed fresh yeast or active
Skim To remove fats and impurities from the seaweed or pressed in a mold. dry yeast (regular or quick-rising) and needs to
surface of a sauce or other liquid using a be activated by mixing with a liquid before use.
perforated skimmer. Tadka An Indian cooking technique in which
foods, such as lentils, are prepared with few Yuzu A citrus fruit with an agreeable sour taste.
Smoke point The temperature at which an oil spices, then spiced just before serving. The bottled, salted juice and the zest are used a
starts to burn and color. Oils with a low smoke great deal in Japanese cooking.
point, such as olive oil, are unsuited to cooking Tamarind Sour pulp from the pod of a tropical
at high temperatures. tree; used in curries, chutneys, and sweets. Zest The colored, outer skin of a citrus fruit.
638 INDEX
INDEX
A sautéing 369 beef black bean, chocolate & peanut pureé
aurore sauce 37 anelletti al forno 393 110
abalone, preparing 169 avgolemone (beid bi lamoun) 82 bresaola with soft goat cheese black bean, lime & chili dressing 105
Adrià, Ferran 12 avocados 352 dressing 57 refried beans 446
cuts & cooking methods 271 black-eyed peas 443
foams 60-9 easy guacomole 353 cuts & roasting times 278 fritters 450
adzuki beans 443 halving & pitting 352 cutting beef tenderloin 314 blackberries
aïoli (garlic mayonnaise) 29 peeling & dicing 353 entrecôte steaks bordelaise 316-17 rosé wine gelatin with berries 620
ale, English leaven bread with potatoes preventing browning 352 green curry of beef with corn & Thai blinis 482
tortilla soup with chili, cheese & basil 419 blueberries
& 467 honey & sesame beef with rice sticks red berry charlotte 572
almonds avocado 493 404 rosé wine gelatin with berries 620
pan-grilling steaks 316 boar, wild, ragout 297
almond cream 561 B roast rib 272-3 boiling
almond milk 628 steak & kidney pudding 310-11 eggs 130
almond tarator 48 bacon steaks grilling & broiling times 319 meat 270, 271, 306-7
baked almond pudding 630 caramelized boiled 307 stroganoff 314 rice 425
cappuccino almond foam with truffle fried chicken with 234 wellington 288-9 vegetables 358, 359
fried egg & 137 boning
juice 67 see also ham beer fish 156, 163
chocolate cake with 292-3 English leaven bread with potatoes & lamb 278-9, 284
orange & nut tuiles 535 baking ale 467 poultry 232
praline 629 eggs 139-40 shrimp tempura with 205 bordelaise sauce 41
preparing 628 fish 185-6, 188 Boston baked beans 449
romesco sauce 48 fruit 624-5 beets bouquet garni 93
tuiles aux amandes effilées 534 meat 270, 271, 282-3, 285-91 baked 364 bourride, chicken 244
amaretti, baked peaches with 625 vegetables 364-6 boiling & steaming 359 braising
anchovies peeling & cutting into batonnets 346 Chinese red-braising 330, 331
anchovy butter 104 balsamic vinegar RAW beet ravioli with herb cashew fish 195
pizza di acciugata alla torrese 470 balsamic sauce 31 cheese & mustard vinaigrette 347 meat 270, 271, 292-305, 494
preparing salted 104 sweet onion frittata with 136 sous vide poached salsify, yellow poultry & game birds 240-3
tapenade 104 beets & carrots 363 vegetables 370-1
anelletti al forno 393 banana leaves 118 bread 456
apples bananas Belgian endive cornbreads 433, 478
apple cheesecake 600-1 baking & roasting 365 crisp, wheat-free flatbreads 477-8
apple fritters 484 banana fritters 625 braising & stewing 370 leavened flatbreads 472-6
baked 624 banana mousse 619 with a natural leaven 464-7
chilled clear cucumber soup with barley 435 bell peppers 352 pizza doughs 470-1
basil bell pepper sauce 45 quick breads 478-9
watermelon, apple & jicama 357 cream 108 deep-frying 373 rye 468-9
hot apple sabayon 558-9 pesto alla genovese 46 gazpacho 87 soup accompaniments 83, 84
maple syrup & apple rice pudding 109 sauce vierge 56 roasting, peeling & slicing 354 to thicken sauces 27
mozart 512-13 bass sautéing 369 yeast 458-63
old-fashioned apple sauce 51 baked whole 186 smoky yellow pepper salsa 53 bresaola with soft goat cheese dressing
sweet apple chips 554-5 meen molee 265 with wild rice stuffing 367
apricots shrimp & sea bass soup 79 57
apricot muffins 611 batonnets, cutting vegetables into 345, berbere sauce 53 brioches
apricot streusel crumble cake 587 berries
daube of pork with 299 346 brioche dough 520
watercress & apricot stuffing 217 batters 480 red berry charlotte 572-3 brioche feuilletée 525-7
arlettes 517 rosé wine gelatin with 620 brioche nanterre 524
arrowroot 27, 79 blinis 482 rote grütze (raspberry pudding) 622 kugelhopf 522-3
artichokes see globe artichokes; clafoutis 483 beurre blanc 32 raisin 521
crêpes 288, 451, 480-1 beurre fondu 33 sugared 525
Jerusalem artichokes crumpets 485 beurre manié 27 broccoli 340
asparagus 348 fritters 484, 625 beurre noir 33 boiling 359
pancakes 481 beurre noisette 33 deep-frying 373
baking & roasting 365 tempura 205 beurre rouge 32 steaming 359
boiling & steaming 359 waffles 484 bhajis, onion 260, 261 stir-fried 329
deep-frying 373 Yorkshire puddings 273, 482-3 bhuna gosht 264 trimming & cutting florets 341
& goat cheese terrine with mâche & Bayless, Rick 12 bigilla 444
Mexican cooking 488-95 bisteeya 542
dill 377 beans 350 squab bisteeya 542-3
mayonnaise foam with 66 see also green beans; dried legumes black beans 443
& morel mushroom soup 86 béarnaise sauce 31
preparing 349 béchamel sauce 34
INDEX 639
broiling jelly roll 584-5 cheese 124, 142 & chive wonton 406
fish & shellfish 196 lemon cake 589 anelletti al forno 393 cilantro-marinated kabobs 251
meat 270, 271, 316, 319 marble cake 589 asparagus & goat cheese terrine with cock-a-leekie 81
poultry & game birds 245, 247 oat-cranberry bars 608 mâche & dill 377 consommé 78-9
vegetables 374 pound cake 586 bresaola with soft goat cheese cutting up 230-1
rich fruit loaf 588 dressing 57 deep-fried breaded 238-9
brown sauces 38 sachertorte 598-9 cheese boards 142 dumplings 431
balancing 41 scones with raisins 607 eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano fried with bacon 234
jus-based sauces 41 sour cream doughnuts 609 tortino 141 fried cutlets 235
light chicken jus 39 sponge batters 582 fettuccine with sweet corn & grilling & broiling times 247
light veal jus 38-9 strudel with fresh grapes 596-7 Gorgonzola cream 389 light chicken jus 39
mounting with butter 42 yeast batters 604 frico 146 mojo marinated chicken with congri
poivrade 41 calamari see squid gratinéed chèvre & flageolet salad & plantains 120-1
vegetarian jus 40 cannellini beans 443 with frisée & mâche 143 pot au feu with parsley hollandaise
capers herb cashew cheese 347
brownies with cheescake filling 610-11 caper dressing 105 hot cheese & radicchio pizza pie 471 228-9
Brussels sprouts caper velouté sauce 37 labne 541 roast squab chicken with couscous
caper vinaigrette 184 porcini gnocchi with prosciutto & stuffing 439
boiling & steaming 359 cappuccino cookies 535 parmigiano cream 397 roasting 215, 216-17
braising & stewing 370 caramel potato gratin 366 sesame chicken & noodle salad 404
buckwheat 435 cajeta 495 potato-celeriac gratin 144 steeped 333
bulgur wheat 436 caramelized inverted pâte feuilletée red oakleaf & bibb salad with Gruyère stock 74-5, 417
pilaf 436 & garlic croutons 142 tandoori murg 260
summer fruit tabbouleh 437 516 ricotta & spinach malfatti 144-5 Thai chicken soup 80
tabbouleh 436 ice cream 564-5 ricotta raviolini with mushrooms, chicken livers
burgers, veal & foie gras 320 sauces 109, 551 lettuce & mint 392 chicken liver tart 252
butter 124 syrup 551 Roquefort dressing 56 with pasta, lemon & garlic 253
anchovy 104 carrots 345 Sicilian lamb stew with pecorino & chickpeas 443
clarifying 26 baby carrots & turnips en papillote caciocavallo 147 chickpea & langoustine soup 85
finishing sauces with 27, 42 360-1 soufflé 138-9 cocido español 448-9
sauces 32-3 baking & roasting 365 storing 124 falafel 450
buttercake 604-5 boiling & steaming 359 tortilla soup with chili, cheese & hummus 444
butterflying carrot salad 543 avocado 493 chili mayonnaise (rouille) 29
leg of lamb 318 glazed sautéed 369 chilies 101, 488
poultry & game birds 245 sous vide poached salsify, yellow cheesecakes 600 berbere sauce 53
buttermilk cornbread 433 apple 600-1 black bean, lime & chili dressing 105
butternut squash, roasted 365 beets & 363 brownies with cheescake filling braised pork in red chili sauce 494
terrine of baby 376 610-11 chili oil 102
C tourner preparation of 345 New York 602 chimichurri sauce 46
cartouche 295 pumpkin-chocolate chip mace & chili marinade 101
cabbage 340 carving cheesecake with country cream preparing dried 101, 102, 194
baking & roasting 365 poultry 218-19, 221, 222 149 preparing fresh 101, 492
boiling & steaming 359 wild duck 227 Stephan’s 603 red curry paste 102
braised red cabbage 370 cashew cheese, herb 347 romesco sauce 48
braising & stewing 370 Catalan cream foam 68 cherries sesame & chili marinade 250
coleslaw 341 caul, wrapping a roast in 281 cherry soup 87 smoky yellow pepper salsa 53
coring & shredding 340 cauliflower 340 clafoutis 483 stir-fried water spinach with yellow
sautéing 369 boiling & steaming 359 Frankfurter kranz 594-5
deep-frying 373 hazelnut cake with 590-1 beans, garlic & chili 416
caciocavallo, Sicilian lamb stew with pan-fried 372 streusel tart with pistachios & 505 tomato-chili jam 103
pecorino & 147 trimming & cutting florets 341 venison with cherries, cinnamon & tortilla soup with chili, cheese &
caviar 172 walnuts 43 avocado 493
café de Paris butter 33 sea urchin & osetra caviar with chimichurri sauce 46
cajeta, lime ice cream with 495 chestnuts Chinese cooking 326
Cajun blackening spices, salmon with vodka crème fraîche & daikon 173 chestnut stuffing 633 chopping 331
celeriac 345 grilled pheasant breast with braised deep-frying 331
99 246-7 red-braising 330-1
cakes 580 boiling & steaming 359 preparing fresh 633 shredding 328
mash 226 slicing 328
apricot muffins 611 potato-celeriac gratin 144 chicken steaming 328-9
apricot streusel crumble cake 587 celery 348 avgolemone (beid bi lamoun) 82 steeping 332-3
brownies with cheescake filling stringing 349 black pepper chicken tea, noodles stir-frying 328, 329
ceviches 116, 182 & watercress 403 chives
610-11 champagne velouté sauce 37 bourride 244 chicken & chive wonton soup 406
buttercake 604-5 charcutière sauce 41 braised in red wine 240-1 chive crêpes 288
cheesecakes 149, 600-3 charlotte, red berry 572-3 butterflied squab 245, 247
chocolate cake with almonds 292-3 chasseur sauce 41 carving 218-19
Dresden stollen 606
Frankfurter kranz 594-5
génoise 582-3
hazelnut cake with cherries 590-1
640 INDEX
chocolate 110 coleslaw 341 crème fraîche 124 crème pâtissière 560-1
bitter chocolate sorbet 567 collards, trimming & slicing 339 sea urchin & osetra caviar with vodka ice creams 107, 562, 564-6, 623
black bean, chocolate & peanut pureé conch crème frâiche & daikon 173 maple syrup & apple rice pudding 109
110 meringue 569-71
cake with almonds 292-3 preparing 117 crème pâtissière 560-1 mousses 63-5, 129, 577, 619
cheesecakes 149, 602 salad with “salsa of life” 116-17 crêpes 480 muhallabeya 544-5
cookies 535 confit de canard 248-9 pâte à biscuit à la cuillère 572
crème chantilly 557 congee 431 chive 288 red berry charlotte 573-4
crème pâtissière 560 congri & plantains, mojo marinated dosas 451 sabayon 558-9
génoise 582 chicken with 120-1 crispbreads sorbets 567-8
marble cake 589 consommé 78 crisp rye bread 477 steamed & boiled puddings 626-7
mint ice cream & hot chocolate chicken 78-9 paper-thin 475 sugar syrups 550-5
profiteroles 528-9 cookies 530 croissants 518-19 truffles 574-6
mousses 65, 129, 577 arlettes 517 croûtons 83 see also fruit
mozart 512-13 cappuccino 535 crumpets 485 diable sauce 41
sablés Viennois 533 chocolate chip 535 cucumber 344 dice, cutting vegetables into 346
sachertorte 598-9 orange & nut tuiles 535 chilled clear cucumber soup with dill, asparagus & goat cheese terrine
truffles 574, 576 sablés diamant vanille 530-1 with mâche & 377
sablés Viennois 532-3 watermelon, apple & jicama 357 dim sum 400
chopping tuiles aux amandes effilées 534 pickled 375 dips & dipping sauces 54
Chinese cooking technique 331 coq au vin 240-1 salting 117 Cantonese-style sauce 333
herbs 92 corn 114, 350, 433 Cumberland sauce 51 hummus 444
baking & roasting 365 cumin raita 54, 260
choron sauce 31 boiling & steaming 359 & cinnamon marinade 250 tomato tapenade 54
choux pastry 527 fettuccine with sweet corn & nigella & pepper marinade 100 dosas 451
curing seafood 182 dough, simple white soft 472
mint ice cream & hot chocolate Gorgonzola cream 389 curry pastes doughnuts, sour cream 609
profiteroles 528-9 green curry of beef with corn & Thai green 418 Dover sole, skinning & filleting 166
red 102 Dresden stollen 606
chutney, autumn fruit 50 basil 419 curry powder dressings 55, 339
cilantro paneer & baby corn with ginger 263 Blue Smoke deviled eggs 130 black bean, lime & chili 105
sautéing 369 curry & kaffir lime-braised vegetables caper 105
cilantro-marinated chicken kabobs shucking & cutting off kernels 350 pan 56
251 cornmeal 433 with basmati rice 371 Roquefort 56
buttermilk cornbread 433 curry sauces sauce vierge 56
Thai basil & cilantro-marinated squid cornbread 478 soft goat cheese 57
94 polenta 434-5 coconut 264 tofu 453
cornstarch 27, 79, 433 curry velouté sauce 37 see also vinaigrettes
cinnamon couscous 438 green 177 dry-roasting
crème chantilly 556 roast squab chicken with couscous cuttlefish, preparing 170 chilies 101
cumin & cinnamon marinade 250 spices 97
& date coffee cake 479 stuffing 439 D Dublin Bay prawns see langoustines
ice cream 623 crabs duck
mozart 512-13 daikon, sea urchin & osetra caviar with breast with star anise sauce & figs
sweet cinnamon pastry 510-11 cleaning live blue 178 vodka crème frâiche & 173
venison with cherries, cinnamon & cleaning live soft-shell 179 208
walnuts 43 cooking 179 dal 447 carving 221, 227
removing meat from cooked 180-1 tadka dal 263 confit de canard 248-9
clafoutis 483 snake gourd, egg & crab soup 417 cutting up 230
clams tortelloni with crabmeat & artichoke dates red-braised chiu chow 330
cinnamon & date coffee cake 479 roasting 215, 226-7
red miso soup with clams & sanshô 391 sticky toffee pudding 626 steamed & then crisp-fried 236-7
204 cracked wheat 436 vanilla & duck broth with rice noodles
cranberries, dried deep-frying
safety 167 Chinese cooking 331 111
shucking 168 oat-cranberry bars 608 dried legumes 450 duck livers
somen noodles with clams & mussels cranberry beans 443 fish & shellfish 199
poultry 238-9 terrine of foie gras 254-5
405 pasta e fagioli 445 shallots 415 dumplings 380, 394, 400
steamed 194 crayfish, picking cooked 176 testing temperature 372
cocido español 448-9 cream 124, 148 vegetables 373 chicken 431
cock-a-leekie 81 gnocchi 396-7, 440-1
coconut milk & cream 80, 419 basil 108 deglazing 26 matzo balls 395
coconut & palm sugar sauce 109 Catalan cream foam 68 desserts 548 plum 626
coconut curry sauce 264 country 149 potato dumpling wrappers 409
coconut foam & lemon gelatin 69 & eggs (liaison) in sauces 27 almond cream 561 ricotta & spinach malfatti 144-5
cracked cream 419 whipped cream in a siphon 68 baked almond pudding 630 spaetzle 394
coconuts, preparing 418 whipping 148 Catalan cream foam 68
coffee crème anglaise 562-3 chilled moscato-pineapple zabaglione
cappuccino cookies 535 crème chantilly 556
crème chantilly 556 chantilly tuile baskets 557 127
crème pâtissière 560 chocolate 557 coconut foam & lemon gelatin 69
Turkish 545 crème anglaise 562-3
coffee cake, cinnamon & date 479 crème chantilly 556-7
INDEX 641
wheat gluten wrappers 408 baking “en papillote” 188 onion 136 Gayler, Paul 13
braising 195 fritters grains & beans 422-53
E broiling 196 sauces & dressings 24-57
buying 154 apple 484
eels, skinning & gutting 159 curing 182-3 banana or pineapple 625 gazpacho 87
eggplants 352 curry 265 fruit 614 gelatin 619
deep-frying 199 baking 624-5
baking & roasting 365 grilling 197 candied fruit & nuts 553 banana mousse 619
eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano microwaving 189 exotic fruit salad 552 coconut foam & lemon gelatin 69
pan-frying 198 frying 625 rosé wine gelatin with berries 620
tortino 141 poaching 190-2 jellied desserts 620 génoise 582-3
pan-frying 372 preparing flat 162-6 poaching 621-3 giblet stock 220
spicy relish of shrimp & pea eggplant preparing round 154-9 preparing fresh 616-17 gin fizz cocktail 66
quenelles 193 puréeing 618-19 ginger
with sweet pork 414-15 raw 160 rich fruit loaf 588 ginger-garlic paste 261
eggs 124 roe 172 savory sauces 50-1 honey & ginger vinaigrette 55
sautéing 198 steamed & boiled puddings 626-7 paneer & baby corn with 263
baked 139-40 serving whole cooked 187 summer fruit tabbouleh 437 steamed fish with scallions & 329
beating 126 soups 79, 83 see also individual fruits e.g. apples globe artichokes 348
beating and folding whites 128-9 steaming 194, 329 fruit vegetables 352-5 boiling & steaming 359
bittersweet chocolate mousse 129 stock 76 see also bell peppers; eggplants; braising & stewing 370
Blue Smoke deviled 130 storing 152 deep-frying 373
boiling 130 see also shellfish; individual fish e.g. tomatoes microwaved baby artichokes 361
cheese soufflé 138-9 frying pan-frying 372
chilled moscato-pineapple zabaglione salmon preparing bottoms 349
flageolet beans 443 dried legumes 451 tortelloni with crabmeat & artichoke
127 eggs 137
coddling 131 gratinéed chèvre & flageolet salad fats for 369, 372 391
egg custard sauce (crème anglaise) with frisée & mâche 143 fish & shellfish 198 trimming to serve whole 348
flatbreads 472 fruit 625 gnocchi
562-3 crisp rye bread 477 meat 270, 271, 312-15 alla romana 440-1
egg custard (savory) 543 focaccia 473 poultry 234-7 porcini gnocchi with prosciutto &
egg fried rice 430 leavened 472-8 spices 97
egg noodles 401 naan bread 476 see also deep-frying; stir-frying parmigiano cream 397
eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano paper-thin crispbread 475 ful medames 443 potato 396
pide 472 bigilla 444 goat cheese
tortino 141 pita bread 475 asparagus & goat cheese terrine with
frying 137 with pumpkin, green olives & shallots G
omelets 134-6 mâche & dill 377
poaching 131 474 game birds 212 bresaola with soft goat cheese
scrambling 132-3 flavor and flavorings 90 boning 232
separating 126 braising 240, 242-3 dressing 57
snake gourd, egg & crab soup 417 citrus & sour 106-7 buying, handling & storing 212, 214 gratinéed chèvre & flageolet salad
to thicken sauces 27 salty 104-5 carving 218-19, 227
to thicken soups 82 for sauces 27 cutting up 230-1 with frisée & mâche 143
see also meringue sweet 108-9 grilling & broiling 245-7 goose
empanadas 114 see also chilies; chocolate; herbs; poaching 228, 233
escabeche 182 removing the wishbone 214 carving 221
spices; vanilla roasting 215, 223-6 cutting into pieces 230
F flounder fillets, baked 185 stuffing 217 roasting 215, 220-1
foams 60 trussing 214 gooseberries
falafel 450 see also squabs (pigeons) gooseberry & mint sauce 51
fats for frying 199, 369, 372 liquid 66-7 gooseberry fool 618
fava beans 443 mousses 63-5 garam masala 98 preparing 617
falafel 450 thickness of 63 garlic 342 Gordon, Peter 13
fazzoletti with zucchini-marjoram sauce using a siphon to make 62 flavorings 90-111
whipped creams 68-9 chicken livers with pasta, lemon & Gorgonzola cream, fettuccine with sweet
388 focaccia 473 253 corn & 389
feijoada 114 foie gras 254 gourds see snake gourds; squashes
fennel 348 terrine of 254-5 ginger-garlic paste 261 grains 422
veal foie gras burgers 320 mayonnaise (aïoli) 29 see also corn; rice; wheat
braising & stewing 370 fondant glaze 591 peeling & chopping 343 grapes, strudel with fresh 596-7
fettuccine with sweet corn & Gorgonzola foyot sauce 31 rabbit with garlic & thyme 294 gravlax 182-3
Frankfurter kranz 594-5 roast leg of lamb with rosemary & open-faced tomato tart with gravlax &
cream 389 Franz, Stephan 12
figs cakes 580-611 274-5 caper vinaigrette 184
frico 146 roasted 365 gravy 219
duck breast with star anise sauce & cups with figs & prosciutto 146 spinach & garlic stuffing 280
208 frittata with balsamic vinegar, sweet stir-fried water spinach with yellow Guinness 311
lamb 286
fig compote 622 beans, garlic & chili 416 gray partridge, roasting 215
a fig dessert 566 green beans
frico cups with figs & prosciutto 146 boiling & steaming 359
fish 152
baking 185-6
642 INDEX
removing strings 350 dark chocolate truffles with lime & light chicken 39 English leaven bread with potatoes &
Sichuan 331 574-5 light veal 38-9 ale 467
greens 338 vegetarian 40
boiling & steaming 359 & ginger vinaigrette 55 simple leaven bread 465-6
braising & stewing 370 & sesame beef with rice sticks 404 K leeks 342
stir-fried with yellow beans, garlic & horseradish
sauces 31, 46 kadhi jhinga 262 boiling & steaming 359
chili 416 spicy tomato & horseradish ketchup kaffir lime leaves braising & stewing 370
trimming & slicing 339 cock-a-leekie 81
see also spinach 52 curry & kaffir lime-braised vegetables cutting julienne 343
gremolata 93 hummus 444 with basmati rice 371 olive oil-poached salmon with leek
grilling hygiene 20
fish & shellfish 197 kaffir limes 106 confit soup 192
meat 270, 271, 316-21 I kaiseki 202 saffron soup 84
poultry & game birds 245-7 ketchup, spicy tomato & horseradish 52 washing 343
vegetables 374 ice cream kibbeh 540 legumes, dried 422
Gruyère, red oakleaf & bibb salad with caramel 564-5 adding flavor 442
142 cinnamon 623 salmon kibbeh nayeh 540-1 canned 442
guacamole, easy 353 lime ice cream with cajeta 495 kidney beans 443 cooking in the oven 449
guinea fowl, roasting 215 mint 528, 566 cooking on the stovetop 443, 448-9
Guinness gravy 311 rose 566 congri 120, 121 cooking times 443
tamarind ripple 107 kidneys deep-frying 450
H vanilla 562 mashing 446
preparing for frying 312 puréeing 444-5
hallacas 118-19 Indian cooking 258 steak & kidney pudding 310-11 salads 143, 452-3
ham bhuna gosht 264 veal kidney in creamy three-mustard shallow-frying 450
coconut curry sauce 264 soaking 442, 443
boiling a ham hock 306 dal 447 sauce 313 sorting & rinsing 442
cocido español 448-9 dosas 451 knives 20 sprouting 451
& parsley terrine 308-9 garam masala 98 Kochhar, Atul 14 stewing 447
pasta e fagioli 445 kadhai jhinga 262 storing 422
see also bacon marinating 261 Indian cooking 258-65 lemon-grass & tomato roasted sardines
hare meen molee 265 koussa mahshi 544
in red wine 295 onion bhajis 260, 261 kugelhopf 522-3 96
royale 296 paneer 263 kuzu 79 lemons
hazelnuts paneer & baby corn with ginger 262
hazelnut cake with cherries 590-1 raita 54, 260 L avgolemone (beid bi lamoun) 82
romesco sauce 48 tadka dal 263 chicken livers with pasta, lemon &
herbs 92 tandoori murg 260 labne 541
chopping 92 tawa masala 263 ladyfingers 572 garlic 253
drying 93 lamb coconut foam & lemon gelatin 69
freezing 93 Irish stew 292-3 grating lemon zest 584
green herb oil 95 bhuna gosht 264 lemon cake 589
herb beurre blanc 32 J braised lamb shanks 298 salted, spiced, preserved 106
herb cashew cheese 347 braised shoulder 304-5 tarte au citron (lemon tart) 508-9
herb mixtures 93 jam, tomato-chili 103 butterflying a leg 318 lentils 422, 443
herb sauces 46-7 Japanese cooking 202 cuts & cooking methods 271 dal 447
pounding 92 cuts & grilling/broiling times 319 tadka dal 263
salsa verde 94 classic nigiri sushi 206 cuts & roasting times 278 warm lentil salad with scallops 452
stripping leaves 92 cooking sushi rice 207 gravy 286 Lepard, Dan 15
sweet 108 duck breast with star anise sauce & Irish stew 292-3 breads & batters 456-85
washing 94 roast leg with rosemary & garlic 274-5 lettuce
see also individual herbs e.g. parsley figs 208 saddle roast 278-81 ricotta raviolini with mushrooms,
Hermé, Pierre 13 fish stock 77 shepherd’s pie 282
desserts 548-77 hand-shaping sushi 207 Sicilian lamb stew with pecorino & lettuce & mint 392
pastry & sweet doughs 498-535 Left Bank sushi with yellow papaya see also salad leaves
Hill, Shaun 14 caciocavallo 147 lima beans 443
fruit & nuts 614-33 209 tunnel-boning leg 284 limes
poultry & game birds 212-55 red miso soup with clams & sanshô tunnel-boned leg in a salt crust 285-7 black bean, lime & chili dressing 105
stocks & soups 72-87 langoustines dark chocolate truffles with lime &
hollandaise sauce 30-1 204 chickpea & langoustine soup 85
parsley 228-9 salmon carpaccio with yuzu 204 with green curry sauce & scallions honey 574
Hom, Ken 14 sashmi & sushi 160 dried 106
Chinese cooking 326-33 shrimp tempura with beer 205 177 lime ice cream with cajeta 495
honey jelly roll 584-5 preparing 176 see also kaffir limes
Jerusalem artichokes Latin American cooking 114 litchi & rose sorbet 568
scallop & artichoke soup 86 conch salad with “salsa of life” 116-17 liver
jicama, chilled clear cucumber soup hallacas 118-19 preparing for frying 312
mojo marinated chicken with congri & see also chicken livers; foie gras
with watermelon, apple & 357 lobsters
jus 38 plantains 120-1 cleaning live 174
leafy green vegetables see greens; salad
jus-based brown sauces 41
leaves; spinach
leavens 464, 466
INDEX 643
cooking live 175 meringue foam tart 64 bittersweet chocolate 129 udon noodle soup 402
taking meat from cooked 175 piping & baking shapes 571 dark chocolate 577 vanilla & duck broth with rice noodles
Mexican cooking 488 frozen chocolate 65
M braised pork in red chili sauce 494 mango, yogurt & raspberry 63 111
dry-roasting and peeling chilies 492 meringue tart 64 nougat montelimar 630-1
mace & chili marinade 101 lime ice cream with cajeta 495 pistachio 64 nuts 614
mâche & dill, asparagus & goat cheese preparing squash blossoms 492 mozart 512-13
preparing tomatillos 492 muffins, apricot 611 candied fruit & nuts 553
terrine with 377 refried beans 446 muhallabeya 544-5 nut sauces 48
mackerel, pan-grilled with orange rehydrating dried chilies 494 mung beans 443 for use in savory dishes 632-3
sopes 491 mushrooms 351 for sweet use 628-31
romesco 49 squash blossom filled corn masa asparagus & morel mushroom soup see also individual types of nut e.g.
Madeira viniagrette, truffle & 55
Maillard reactions 240 boats 490 86 almonds
maize see corn tortilla soup with chili, cheese & baking & roasting 365
Malouf, Greg 15 chasseur sauce 41 O
avocado 493 cleaning fresh 351
Middle Eastern cooking 538-45 microwave cooking morel sauce 45 oats 435
maltaise sauce 31 mushroom & yuba pastries 407 oat-cranberry bars 608
mandolines 346 fish & shellfish 189 mushroom velouté sauce 37 oatcakes 478
Manfield, Christine 15 rice 425 pan dressing 56
vegetables 361 partridge braised with 242-3 octopus, cleaning & sectioning 171
Asian noodles & dumplings 400-9 Middle Eastern cooking 538 poached pheasant breast with morel oils
mangoes carrot salad 543
falafel 450 233 chili oil 102
dried 106 hummus 444 porcini gnocchi with prosciutto & for frying 198, 238
mango, yogurt & raspberry foam 63 koussa mahshi 544 green herb oil 95
preparing 617 labne 541 parmigiano cream 397 okra, braising & stewing 370
maple syrup & apple rice pudding 109 muhallabeya 544-5 preparing wild 351 olive oil
marble cake 589 phyllo pies 543 rehydrating dried 351 frying with 198
marinades and marinating salmon kibbeh nayeh 540-1 ricotta raviolini with mushrooms, olive oil-poached salmon with leek
Indian cooking 261 savory egg custard 543
mojo 120-1 squab bisteeya 542-3 lettuce & mint 392 confit soup 192
poultry 250-1 Turkish coffee 545 sautéing 369 orange & olive oil marinade 250
spice 100-1 milk 124 mussels olives
Thai basil & cilantro-marinated squid millet 435 cleaning & debearding 167
minestrone 80-1 safety 167 flatbread with pumpkin, green olives
94 mint somen noodles with clams & 405 & shallots 474
marjoram crème chantilly 556 mustard
gooseberry & mint sauce 51 sauces 31, 37 olive sauce 31
fazzoletti with zucchini-marjoram ice cream 528, 566 veal kidney in creamy three-mustard pitting 104
sauce 388 paloise sauce 31 tapenade 104
ricotta raviolini with mushrooms, sauce 313 omelets 134-5
marrow bones, preparing marrow from vinaigrette 347 classic folded 134-5
317 lettuce & 392 egg white 135
sauce 47 N flat 135
mastic 545 mirepoix 301, 370 soufflé 135
matzo balls 394 miso soup with clams & sanshô, red 204 naan bread 476 sweet onion frittata with balsamic
mojo marinated chicken with congri & nasi goreng 430
Susan Friedland’s matzo ball soup plantains 120-1 navy beans 443 vinegar 136
395 mollusks see shellfish onions 342
monkfish Boston baked beans 449
mayonnaise 28-9 braised 195 nectarines, peeling 617 deep-frying onion rings 373
foam with asparagus 66 in cumin, nigella & pepper marinade New York cheesecake 602 langoustines with green curry sauce &
nigella
meat 100 scallions 177
baking 270, 271, 282-3, 285-91 filleting tail 159 cumin, nigella & pepper marinade 100 onion bhajis 260, 261
boiling & steaming 270, 271, 306-11 paella 426-7 nigiri sushi, classic 206 parsley & scallion tart with walnut
boning 278-9, 284, 318-19 morels noisette sauce 31
braising & stewing 270, 271, 292-305 asparagus & morel mushroom soup noodles 400 pastry 632
buying 268 peeling & dicing 342
frying 270, 271, 312-15 86 black pepper chicken tea, noodles & pork chops with caramelized 291
grilling & broiling 270, 271, 316-17, morel sauce 45 watercress 403 sautéing 369
318-21 poached pheasant breast with morel slicing 342
hanging 268 boiling 402 steamed fish with scallions & ginger
roasting 270, 271, 272-8, 280-1 mushrooms 233 egg noodles 401
searing 271 mornay sauce 35 honey & sesame beef with rice sticks 329
spit-roasting 271, 322-3 mousseline sauce 31 sweet onion frittata with balsamic
storing 268 mousses 60 404 vinegar 136
stuffing & rolling 279-80 noodle-wrapped tiger shrimp 405 oranges
banana 619 sesame chicken & noodle salad 404 maltaise sauce 31
meat thermometers 278 somen noodles with clams & mussels orange & nut tuiles 535
meen molee 265 orange & olive oil marinade 250
meringue 548 405 orange & rosemary vinaigrette 55
pan-grilled mackerel with orange
French 570
Italian 569 romesco 49
644 INDEX
sectioning 616 lettuce & mint 392 skinning 630 poultry 212
steamed orange pudding 627 stuffing 390 streusel tart with pistachios & cherries boning 232
oxtail, braised 300-1 tortelloni with crabmeat & artichoke braising & pot-roasting 240-4
oysters 505 buying, handling & storing 212, 214
safety 167 391 pita bread 475 carving 218-19, 221, 222
shucking 168 pastry & sweet doughs 498, 500 pizzas cutting up 230-1
deep-frying 238-9
P brioche dough 520-6 basic pizza dough 470 frying 234-7
choux pasty 527-9 hot cheese & radicchio pizza pie 471 grilling & broiling 245, 247
paella 426-7 cinnamon pâté sablée 510-13 pizza di acciugata alla torrese 470 livers 252-5
palm sugar sauce, coconut & 109 croissants 518-19 plantains 121 marinating 250-1
paloise sauce 31 inverted pâte feuilletée 514-17 caramelized 121 parts of the bird 214
pan sauces 42 pâte à biscuit à la cuillère 572 plum dumplings 626 poaching 228-9
pâte à brioche feuilletée 525-7 poaching preserving 248-9
venison with cherries, cinnamon & pâte brisée 500-5 eggs 131 removing the wishbone 214
walnuts 43 pâte sucrée 506-9 fish 190-2 roasting 215-17, 220-1, 222
prebaking tart shells 506 fruit 621-3 stuffing 217, 239
see also gravy short pastry 500–5 poultry & game birds 228-9, 233 trussing 214
pan-frying suet 310 poivrade 41 see also chicken; duck
pastry cream 560-1 polenta 434-5
fish & shellfish 198 peaches pomegranates pound cake 586
vegetables 372 baked peaches with amaretti 625 pomegranate molasses 106 praline 629
see also frying peeling 617 removing seeds 617 preserving
pan-grilling/pan-broiling saffron-poached 108 porcini mushrooms
steaks 316 peanut pureé, black bean, chocolate & porcini gnocchi with prosciutto & lemons 106
vegetables 374 poultry 248-9
pancakes 481 110 parmagiano cream 397 profiteroles, mint ice & hot chocolate
blinis 482 pears sautéing 369 sauce 528-9
paneer 263 porgy prosciutto
paneer & baby corn with ginger 262 pear tart bourdaloue 504 meen molee 265 frico cups with figs & 146
papaya, Left Bank sushi with yellow 209 poached with cinnamon ice cream pork porcini gnocchi with prosciutto &
papillote cooking, en 360 anelletti al forno 393
baby carrots & turnips 360-1 623 belly medallions 303 parmigiano cream 397
baked salmon 188-9 peas 350 braised in red chili sauce 494 puff pastry, “inside out” 514-16
Parmesan braised rolled belly 302
eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano boiling & steaming fresh 359 chops with caramelized onions 291 arlettes 517
dried 443 chops in mace & chili marinade 101 caramelized 516
tortino 141 pecorino cocido español 448-9 pumpkin
porcini gnocchi with prosciutto & Sicilian lamb stew with pecorino & cuts & cooking methods 271 flatbread with pumpkin, green olives
cuts & grilling/broiling times 319
parmigiano cream 397 caciocavallo 147 cuts & roasting times 278 & shallots 474
parsley pepper daube of pork with apricots 299 pumpkin-chocolate chip cheesecake
shrimp & pork potato dumplings 409
chimichurri sauce 46 black pepper chicken tea, noodles & slow roast shoulder 276-7 with country cream 149
& scallion tart with walnut pastry 632 watercress 403 spicy relish of shrimp & pea eggplant purées
gremolata 93
ham & parsley terrine 308-9 cumin, nigella & pepper marinade 100 with sweet pork 414-15 dried legumes 444-5
hollandaise 228-9 pesto alla genovese 46 spit-roasted brined 322-3 fruit 618-19
sauce 35 pheasant pot-roasting, poultry 240 vegetables 366
parsnips potato dumpling wrappers 409
baking & roasting 365 grilled breast with braised chestnuts shrimp & pork potato dumplings 409 Q
pan-frying 372 246-7 potatoes 114
partridge baking & roasting 365 quail
braised with mushrooms 242-3 grilling & broiling times 247 boiling & steaming 359 grilling & broiling times for butterflied
roasting 215 poached breast with morel braising & stewing 370 247
passion fruit, milk chocolate truffles with deep-frying 373 roast with salad leaves & walnut
mushrooms 233 English leaven bread with potatoes & dressing 223
576 phyllo pies 543 roasting 215
pasta 380 piccalilli 283 ale 467
pickling, vegetables 375 pan-frying 372 quenelles, seafood 193
anelletti al forno 393 pide 472 potato foam: 21st-century tortilla 69 quinoa 435
chicken livers with pasta, lemon & pigeons see squabs potato gnocchi 396
pilaf potato gratin 366 R
garlic 253 potato-celeriac gratin 144
cooking fresh or dried 387 bulgur 436 saffron soup 84 rabbit with garlic & thyme 294
fazzoletti with zucchini-marjoram rice 426 slicing with a mandoline 346 radicchio
pineapples potato starch 27
sauce 388 chilled moscato-pineapple zabaglione pots & pans 20 braising & stewing 370
fettuccine with sweet corn & hot cheese & radicchio pizza pie 471
127 sautéing 369
Gorgonzola cream 389 cutting rings & chunks 616 raisins
making fresh 382-6 pineapple fritters 625 pains aux 526
pasta e fagioli 445 pinto beans 443
ricotta raviolini with mushrooms, pistachios
nougat montelimar 630-1
pistachio dukka 98
pistachio foam 64
INDEX 645
raisin brioches 521 romesco 49 smoky yellow bell pepper 53 404
scones with 607 roots & tubers 345-7 salsify, yellow beets & carrots, sous vide sesame chicken & noodle salad 404
raita 54, 260 Roquefort dressing 56 shallots 342
raspberries rose poached 363 deep-frying 415
mango, yogurt & raspberry foam 63 salt 104 flatbread with pumpkin, green olives
raspberry pudding (rote grütze) 622 ice cream 566
raspberry sorbet 567 litchi & rose sorbet 568 salted, spiced, preserved lemons 106 & 474
red berry charlotte 572-3 rosemary salting cucumber 117 sautéing 369
rosé wine gelatin with berries 620 orange & rosemary vinaigrette 55 salting fish 182 shellfish 152
rote grütze (raspberry pudding) 622 roast leg of lamb with rosemary & salt dough 285 baking 185
raviolini 390 tunnel-boned lamb in a salt crust 287 broiling 196
ricotta raviolini with mushrooms, garlic 274-5 wrapping & baking meat in 285-6 deep-frying 199
rote grütze (raspberry pudding) 622 sanchô, red miso soup with clams & 204 grilling 197
lettuce & mint 392 rouille (chili mayonnaise) 29 sardines, lemon-grass & tomato roasted microwaving 189
RAW approach to vegetables 356-7 roux 27 paella 426-7
red cabbage, braised 370 rutabaga, boiling & steaming 359 96 pan-frying 198
red chard spaetzle 394 rye 435, 468 sashimi 160 poaching 190
red currants sauces 24 preparing 167-72, 174-7, 178-81
crisp rye bread 477 quenelles 193
rote grütze (raspberry pudding) 622 simple rye loaf 468 basic saucemaking techniques 26 raw 160
red legged partridge, roasting 215 whole-grain rye bread 469 brown 38-42 safety 167
red mullet butter 32-3 sautéing 198
S curry 37, 177, 264 steaming 194, 432
broiled red mullet fillets 196 dipping 54, 332 storing 152
pan-fried 198 sabayon, hot apple 558-9 emulsified 28-32 see also individual types of shellfish
red-braising in Chinese cooking 331 sablés daimant vanille 530-1 fruit savory 50-1 e.g. shrimp
refried beans 446 sablés Viennois 532 hot & spicy 52-3 shepherd’s pie 282
rémoulade 29 keeping warm 35 shoots & stalks (vegetables) 348-9
rice 424 chocolate 533 nut 48 short pastry (pâte brisée)
avgolemone (beid bi lamoun) 82 sachertorte 598-9 pan 42, 219 chilling 501
bell peppers with wild rice stuffing 367 saffron star anise 208 making 500-1
congee 431 sweet 109, 529, 551 pear tart bourdaloue 504
congri 121, 122 beurre blanc 32 thickening methods 27 prebaking tart shells 506
cooking 417, 424-5 hollandaise-based sauce 31 vegetable & herb 44-7 rolling out and lining tart pan 502-3
curry & kaffir-lime braised vegetables saffron-poached peaches 108 white 34-7 streusel tart with pistachios & cherries
soup 84 see also dressings; vinaigrettes
with basmati rice 371 & tomato velouté sauce 37 sausage stuffing 217 505
egg fried 430 salad leaves 338 sautéing shredding
leftover cooked rice 424 roast quail with salad leaves & walnut fats for 369
maple syrup & apple rice pudding 109 fish & shellfish 198 cabbage 340
nasi goreng 430 dressing 223 vegetables 368-9 Chinese cooking technique 328
paella 427-8 trimming, washing & drying 338 see also pan-frying shrimp
pilaf 426 salads 339 scallops breaded & deep-fried 199
risotto 428 carrot 543 pan-grilled 197 kadhai jhinga 262
soaking 424 coleslaw 341 scallop & artichoke soup 86 noodle-wrapped tiger shrimp 405
supplì al telefono 429 conch salad with “salsa of life” 116-17 scallop quenelles 193 & pork potato dumplings 409
sushi 160, 207 dried legumes for 452 shucking 169 preparing 176
washing/rinsing 424 exotic fruit 552 warm lentil salad with scallops 452 & sea bass soup 79
rice noodles, vanilla & duck broth with gratinéed chèvre & flageolet salad scampi see langoustines spicy relish of shrimp & pea eggplant
111 scones with raisins 607
rice paper wrappers 400, 432 with frisée & mâche 143 sea bass with sweet pork 414-15
steamed seafood wraps 432 hot Asian salad with tofu dressing 453 baked whole 186 tempura with beer 205
ricotta red oakleaf & bibb salad with Gruyère meen molee 265 & water chestnut dumplings 408
raviolini with mushrooms, lettuce & shrimp and sea bass soup 79 Sicilian lamb stew with pecorino &
& garlic croutons 142 sea urchins caciocavallo 147
mint 392 sesame chicken & noodle 404 cleaning 172 siphons 62
& spinach malfatti 144-5 warm lentil salad with scallops 452 sea urchin & osetra caviar with vodka sippets 84
risotto 428 salmon skate wings
supplì al telefono 429 baked salmon en papillote 188-9 crème fraîche & daikon 173 filleting 166
roasting with Cajun blackening spices 99 seafood see fish; shellfish poached 190-1
meat 270, 271, 272-8, 280-1 carpaccio with yuzu 204 searing meat 271 slicing food
poultry & game birds 215-17, 220-7 gravlax 182-3 semolina 440 Chinese cooking technique 328
vegetables 364-5 kibbeh nayeh 540-1 with a mandoline 346
Romano, Michele 16 microwaved steaks 189 gnocchi alla romana 440-1 smoking of seafood 182
eggs & dairy products 124-49 olive oil-poached salmon with leek sepia (cuttlefish), preparing 170 snake gourds
pasta & dumplings 380-97 sesame oil preparing 417
romesco sauce 48 confit soup 192 snake gourd, egg & crab soup 416
pan-grilled mackerel with orange salsas sesame & chili marinade 250
sesame seeds
gremolata 93
salsa de noci 48 honey & sesame beef with rice sticks
“salsa of life” 116
salsa verde 94
646 INDEX
snow peas spice blends 98 meat 270, 271, 292-7 tarragon
boiling & steaming 359 spice marinades 100-1 vegetables 370 béarnaise sauce 31
removing strings 350 spice rubs 99 stir-frying 328, 329, 416 velouté sauce 37
sautéing 369 squabs with 224 stocks 72
sweet 108 chicken 74-5, 417 tartar sauce 29
sofrito 114 see also chilies cooling 74 tarts, savory
somen noodles with clams & mussels spinach fish 77
boiling & steaming 359 giblet 220 chicken liver 252
405 & garlic stuffing 280 veal 76 open-faced tomato tart with gravlax &
sopes 491 preparing 339 vegetable 76
sorbets ricotta & spinach malfatti 144-5 white 75 caper vinaigrette 184
sautéing 369 stollen, Dresden 606 parsley & scallion tart with walnut
bitter chocolate 567 spit-roasting meat 271, 322-3 strawberries
litchi & rose 568 split peas 443 red berry charlotte 572-3 pastry 632
raspberry 567 tadka dal 263 sweet strawberry chips 555 tarts, sweet
soubise sauce 35 sponge cakes 582 stroganoff, beef 314
soufflés apricot streusel crumble cake 587 strudel with fresh grapes 596-7 pear tart bourdaloue 504
cheese 138-9 chocolate cake with almonds 592-3 stuffings 217 streusel tart with pistachios & cherries
flavoring 138 Frankfurter kranz 594-5 chestnut 633
soups 72 génoise 582-3 couscous 439 505
asparagus & morel mushroom 86 hazelnut cake with cherries 590-1 sausage 217 tarte au citron (lemon tart) 508-9
avgolemone (beid bi lamoun) 82 jelly roll 584-5 spinach & garlic 280 tawa masala 263
black pepper chicken tea, noodles & marble cake 589 stuffing a chicken breast 239 tempeh 452
pound cake 586 stuffing and rolling a saddle of lamb terrines
watercress 403 rich fruit cake 588 foie gras 254-5
cherry 87 sprouting of dried legumes 451 279 ham & parsley 308-9
chicken & chive wonton 406 squab chicken stuffing vegetables 367 lining molds 308
chickpea & langoustine 85 butterflying 245 watercress & apricot 217 vegetable 376-7
chilled clear cucumber soup with grilling & broiling times 247 suet pastry 310 Thai basil
roast with couscous stuffing 439 sugar 108 & cilantro-marinated squid 94
watermelon, apple & jicama 357 squabs (pigeons) coconut & palm sugar sauce 109 green curry of beef with corn & 419
cock-a-leekie 81 bisteeya 542-3 sugar syrups 550-5 Thai cooking 412
consommé 78 roasting 215 sumac 106 chicken soup 80
gazpacho 87 with spices 224 summer pudding 621 chicken stock 417
minestrone 80-1 squash blossoms summer squashes 344 coconut cream & milk 419
North Sea fish 83 preparing 492 boiling & steaming 359 cooking rice 417
pasta e fagioli 445 squash blossom-filled corn masa braising & stewing 370 cracked cream 419
red miso soup with clams & sanshô deep-frying 373 green curry of beef with corn & Thai
boats 490 grating 344
204 squashes 344 see also cucumber; zucchini basil 419
saffron 84 supplì al telefono 429 green curry paste 418
scallop & artichoke 86 koussa mahshi 544 sushi 160 preparing a coconut 418
shrimp & sea bass 79 see also summer squashes; winter classic nigiri 206 preparing snake gourd 417
snake gourd, egg & crab 417 cooking sushi rice 207 snake gourd, egg & crab soup 416
Susan Friedland’s matzo ball soup squashes hand-shaping 207 spicy relish of shrimp & pea eggplant
squid Left Bank with yellow papaya 209
395 sweet potatoes with sweet pork 414
Thai chicken 80 cleaning 170 baking & roasting 365 stir-fried water spinach with yellow
thickening 79, 82 Thai basil & cilantro-marinated 94 boiling & steaming 359
tortilla soup with chili, cheese & star anise pan-frying 372 beans, garlic & chili 416
crème chantilly 556 sweet potato chips 373 Thompson, David 16
avocado 493 sauce 208
udon noodle 402 steak & kidney pudding 310-11 T Thai cooking 412-19
vanilla & duck broth with rice noodles steaks thyme, rabbit with garlic & 294
entrecôte steaks bordelaise 316-17 tabbouleh 436 toffee pudding, sticky 626
111 grilling & broiling times 319 summer fruit 437 tofu 452
sour cream doughnuts 609 pan-grilling 316
sous vide cooking 362 steaming tadka dal 262 hot Asian salad with tofu dressing 453
Chinese cooking 328-9 Takeuchi, Hisayuki 16 tomatillos 352, 488
poached salsify, yellow beets & fish & shellfish 194
carrots 363 meat 270, 271, 306, 310-11 Japanese cooking 202-9 preparing 492
puddings 626-7 tamarind 106 tomatoes 352, 488
poached turnips 362 rice 424
soybeans 443, 452 vegetables 359 ripple ice cream 107 aurore sauce 37
spaetzle 394 steeping (Chinese cooking) 332, 333 tandoori murg 260 choron sauce 31
stewing tapenade 104 crushed tomato vinaigrette 55
red chard 394 dried legumes 447 tomato 54 dehydrating 356
spices 90, 96 gazpacho 87
kadhai jhinga 262
bruising 96 lemon-grass & tomato roasted
crushing 97
dry-roasting 97 sardines 96
frying in oil 97 open-faced tomato tart with gravlax &
grating 96
grinding 97 caper vinaigrette 184
in Indian cooking 258 peeling, seeding & chopping 355
raw tomato sauce 47
saffron & tomato velouté sauce 37
INDEX 647
sauce vierge 56 crème chantilly 556 mustard 347 Y
spicy tomato & horseradish ketchup extract 111 sauce vierge 56
extracting seeds 110 vinegar, seasoned for rice 160 yeast 458
52 ice cream 562 blinis 482
tomato sauce 44 sablés daimant vanille 530-1 W brioches 520-7
tomato tapenade 54 veal cakes 604-6
tomato-chili jam 103 chops grilling & broiling times 278 waffles 484 crumpets 485
tortelloni 390 cuts & cooking methods 271 walnut oil flatbreads 472-7
with crabmeat & artichoke 391 cuts & roasting times 278 roast quail with salad leaves & walnut pizza dough 470
tortillas 491 & foie gras burgers 320 yeast bread 458-63
fried tortilla triangles 446 kidney in creamy three-mustard sauce dressing 223
sopes 491 walnuts yellow bean sauce
tortilla soup with chili, cheese & 313 stir-fried water spinach with yellow
light veal jus 38-9 parsley & scallion tart with walnut beans, garlic & chili 416
avocado 493 poached & grilled tenderloin 321 pastry 632
tortino, eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano stock 76 yogurt 124
vegetables salsa di noci 48 cumin, nigella & pepper marinade 100
141 buying 336 venison with cherries, cinnamon & 43 labne 541
tourner preparation of vegetables 345 cooking methods Wareing, Marcus 17 mango, yogurt & raspberry foam 63
tourte de viande 290 meat 268-323 raita 54, 260
Trotter, Charlie 17 baking & roasting 364-6 wasabi tobiko 172, 173
boiling 358, 359 water baths for keeping sauces warm 35 Yorkshire puddings 273, 482-3
fish & shellfish 152-99 braising & stewing 370-1 water chestnut dumplings, shrimp & 408 yuba pastries 407
vegetables 336-77 deep-frying 373 water spinach with yellow beans, garlic
truffles (fungi) en papillote 360 mushroom & yuba pastries 407
cappuccino almond foam with truffle grilling & broiling 374 & chili, stir-fried 416 yuzu 106
microwaving 361 watercress
juice 67 pan-frying 372 ahi tuna poke with soy-yuzu-cilantro
mayonnaise with truffle oil 29 pickling 375 & apricot stuffing 215 sauce 161
preparing 351 puréeing 366 black pepper chicken tea, noodles &
truffle & Madeira viniagrette 55 roasting 323 salmon carpaccio with 204
truffles (candy) sautéing 368-9 403
dark chocolate truffles with lime & sous vide 362-3 sauces 31, 45 Z
steaming 359 watermelon, apple & jicama, chilled clear
honey 574-5 stuffing 367 cucumber soup with 357 zabaglione, chilled moscato-pineapple
milk chocolate truffles with passion terrines 376-7 wheat 435, 436-41 127
families of wheat gluten wrappers 408
fruit 576 cabbage 340-1 shrimp & water chestnut dumplings zucchini 344
tubers & roots 345-7 fruit vegetables 352-5 cutting batonnets 345
tuiles gourd 344-5 408 eggplant, zucchini & parmigiano
leafy 338-9 whelks, preparing 169 tortino 141
aux amandes effilées 534 mushrooms 351 white sauces 34 fazzoletti with zucchini-marjoram
chantilly tuile baskets 557 onion 342-3 sauce 388
orange & nut 535 pods & seeds 350 béchamel 34-5 koussa mahshi 544
shaping 535 roots & tubers 345-6 velouté 36-7 pan-grilled 374
tuna poke with soy-yuzu-cilantro sauce, shoots & stalks 348-9 white stock 75
heritage varieties 336 wild boar ragout 297
ahi 161 mirepoix 301, 370 wild duck
turkey preparing 336 carving 227
RAW 356-7 roasting 215, 226-7
carving legs & breast 222 storing 336 wine
cutting up 230 vegetable sauces 44-7 chicken braised in red wine 240-1
roasting 215, 222 vegetable stock 76 chilled moscato-pineapple zabaglione
Turkish coffee 545 see also individual vegetables e.g.
turnips carrots 127
baby carrots & turnips en papillote vegetarian jus 40 fortified wine sauce 41
velouté sauce 36-7 hare in red wine 296
360-1 venison poivrade 41
boiling & steaming 359 with cherries, cinnamon & walnuts 43 rosé wine gelatin with berries 620
sous vide poached 362 cuts & roasting times 278 truffle & Madeira vinaigrette 55
ragout 297 winter squashes 344
U vinaigrettes 55 baking & roasting 365
caper 184 boiling & steaming 359
udon noodle soup 402 classic & variations 55 halving, peeling & seeding 344
uove al forno 140 crushed tomato 55 sautéing 369
urad beans see also pumpkin
wontons 406
dosas 451 chicken & chive wonton soup 406
woodcock, roast 215, 225
V
Van Aken, Norman 17
Latin American cooking 114-21
vanilla 110
& duck broth with rice noodles 111
648 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PUBLISHER’S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following: On behalf of the contributing chefs
The following chefs prepared and styled food and demonstrated
Hugh Thompson, for his initial planning and management of the project. cooking techniques for photography: Sébastien Bauer (for Pierre Hermé),
Jeffrey Brana (for Norman Van Aken), Marc Cuspinera Viñas (for
Bridget Sargeson, food stylist, for her unfailing professionalism and good Ferran Adrià), Julien Tessier (for David Thompson), Guiseppe Tentori
humour in preparing and presenting for the camera over half of the (for Charlie Trotter).
techniques and recipes in this book.
Food stylists
All of the chefs who generously made available their facilities and materials Stephana Bottom, Angela Nilsen, Lucinda Rushbrooke (for Greg Malouf),
for photography. The El Bulli office for the portrait of Ferran Adrià. Nicole Szabason, Linda Tubby, Kirsten West (for Rick Bayless), Sari Zernich
(for Charlie Trotter). Susanna Tee for recipe testing.
Editorial assistance
Valerie Barrett, Shannon Beatty, Stuart Cooper, Roz Denny, Barbara Dixon, Hand models
Anna Fischel, Kay Halsey, Karola Handwerker, Eleanor Holme, Katie John, Virpi Davies, Harriet Eastwood, Saliha Fellache, Caroline Green,
Bridget Jones, Jenny Lane, Beverly le Blanc, Irene Lyford, Marie-Pierre Jane Hornby, Olivia King, Emma McIntosh, Carlyn van Niekerk,
Moine, Constance Novis, Gary Werner, Fiona Wild, Jeni Wright. Brittany Williams, Bethan Woodyatt, Tanongsak Yordwai (for David
Thompson).
Design assistance
Maggie Aldred, Briony Chappell, Murdo Culver, Jo Grey, Toni Kay, Elly King, Props stylists
Luis Peral-Aranda, Judith Robertson, Liz Sephton, Penny Stock, Victoria Allen, John Bentham, Bette Blau, Andrea Kuhn, Hendrik Schaulin,
Sue Storey, Ann Thompson. Helen Trent.
DTP design assistance Photographic studio production
Alistair Richardson, Louise Waller. Carol Myers and Alex Grant at Divine Studio/Piquant Productions, New
York; Sid Kelly at Code Management Inc., Miami; Oliver Beuvre-Méry at
Editorial consultation Blanc Loft, Gentilly, Paris; Nicole Werth and Stefan Richter at Lightclub
Rosie Adams, Henja Schneider, Margaret Thomason, Jill van Cleave, Photographic, Hamburg.
Kate Whiteman, Jennifer Williams.
Administrative assistance
Translation Laura Dixon, Alex Farrell, Zoe Moore, Jolyon Rubinstein.
Janine Broom, Cristina Garcia, Barbara Mayer.
Copyright
Index The poem Homecoming by Nakahara Chûya is reproduced on page 203
Dawn Butcher by kind permission of Gracewing Publishing and appears in The Poems of
Nakahara Chûya, translated by Paul Mackintosh and Maki Sugiyama
Chefs’ liaison (Gracewing, 1993: ISBN 0 85244 255 6).
Marc Cuspinera Viñas (for Ferran Adrià), Jennifer Fite (for Rick Bayless);
Marion Franz (for Stephan Franz); Rosie Gayler (for Paul Gayler);
Barbara Maher (for Stephan Franz); Anna Elena Pedron (for Norman
Van Aken); Anne Roche-Nöel (for Pierre Hermé); Lucy Rushbrooke (for
Greg Malouf); Rochelle Smith (for Charlie Trotter); Elisabeth Takeuchi
(for Hisayeuki Takeuchi); Jane Wareing (for Marcus Wareing);
David Whitehouse (for Dan Lepard).
The words you are searching are inside this book. To get more targeted content, please make full-text search by clicking here.
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