EC_0221

THE MAGAZINE FOR COSMETIC INDUSTRY LEADERS 1/2

Meet us and browse COVER STORY
more detailed information
at our website Dr. Dirk Petersohn

www.phenion.com Henkel Beauty Care
SKIN SENSITIVITY
epiCS® Epidermal Model epiCS® is approved for:
NEW Bacterial Contamination
# In vitro Skin Irritation testing (OECD TG 439) in Cometics Products
H&E # In vitro Skin Corrosion testing (OECD TG 431)
Filaggrin ETHNIC SKIN
Also available: epiCS®-M
CK10 Pigmented epidermal model with melanocytes from AROMAS
● Caucasian donors
CK 14 ● Asian-Caucasian donors Bitop
● Afro-American donors Ectoin® natural

7d 14d 21d p. 35

Phenion® Full-Thickness Skin Model The Phenion® Skin Models
resemble native human skin in their histological
Features: architecture as well as in displaying a wide
● Consists of human primary fibroblasts and spectrum of corresponding physiological
parameters.
keratinocytes from single donor origin
● Cornified surface The skin models allow the following
● Multi-layered epidermis exemplary applications:
● The mature dermis displays excellent ● Epidermal and dermal differentiation
● Topical and systemical substance exposure
elastic fiber network ● Microbiological studies
NEW Also available in cell culture inserts ● Safety and efficacy testing of substances
● Cytotoxicity
● Genotoxicity
● Skin Metabolism
● Penetration
● Wound healing

Phenion® FT LARGE Phenion® FT AGED Phenion® FT LONG-LIFE

Reduced collagen synthesis* English/German

*heated paraffin sections, R-CHP Collagen stain by 3Helix, Inc. January/February 2021

Your contact for requests and ordering: [email protected] | VOLUME NO. 29 ■ B 50962

www.phenion.com

1/2-2021 2 EURO COSMETICS

SSUUPPPPLLIIEERR''SS PPAANNOORRAAMMAAWe invite you to visit these suppliers on their website for more information

www.ballerstaedt.de www.bgs.eu www.bio-aktive.com

www.clariant.com www.cosphatec.de www.flavex.com

www.gerschon.de www.incaoil.org www.kolb.ch
www.mawi-chemie.de www.organicaaroma.com
Neo Cos Service GmbH

www.neocos.com

www.packpiu.com www.pamasol.com www.pera-ingredients.de

www.ptg-lohnabfuellung.de www.quimdis.com www.sabinsaeurope.com

www.schmitt-cosmetics.com www.sili.eu www.surfachem.de

www.systemkosmetik.de www.voegele-lauffen.de Contact:
[email protected]

1/2-2021 3 EURO COSMETICS

Phenion – The Henkel brand
for reconstructed human tissues

CSOVER
TORY

A conversation with Dr. Dirk Petersohn,

Director of the Center of Excellence
Sustainability & Phenion, Henkel Beauty Care Technologies

Since 10/1998
Henkel AG & Co. KGaA
Diverse managerial functions in:
• Corporate Central Research
• Product development Beauty Care
• Biological & Clinical Research
• Currently:
Director of the Center of Excellence “Sustainability & Phenion”
01/1997– 09/1998
C linic and Policlinic for Dermatology
(Medical Department Universitiy of Cologne)
Post-Doc in the research team “Wound healing” of Prof. Dr. Thomas Krieg
1993 – 1996
University of Cologne, Institute of Genetics
PhD-Studies on tissue specific gene regulation in the human central nervous system.
Member of the research team of Prof. Dr. G. Thiel
1988 – 1993
U niversity of Cologne
Studies of Biology, Diploma

1/2-2021 4 EURO COSMETICS

Tissue architecture of the epiCS model (histological section, H&E staining)

EURO COSMETICS: Henkel is broadly research institutes, to reduce animal test- a nutshell: This is the reason why we de-
known as a company that operates world- ing by using reconstructed tissues for their veloped additionally to the standard full
wide with leading innovations, brands, own research and services or also to devel- thickness skin model, skin models in cul-
and technologies in three business areas: op additional, new alternative testing ture inserts, a LARGE version of outstand-
Adhesive Technologies, Beauty Care, and methods. ing size, the LONG-LIFE or the AGED
Laundry & Home Care. How does the Based on the global Henkel strategies the versions.
Brand Phenion fit in here? Phenion team developed the vision of a We can see that today animal testing still
Dr. Dirk Petersohn: Recognizing, that our just cause: needs to be conducted to address certain
in-house skin models are superior in pre- “Phenion facilitates the use of reconstruct- questions, particularly where alternatives
dicting chemical effects, Henkel has decid- ed human tissues to ultimately omit animal are not yet in place. But frankly speaking,
ed in 2017 to grant unlimited access to its testing around the globe. To achieve this we at Phenion are convinced, that every
innovative technologies using the brand goal, we see the customers in the center of single step can help to come closer to our
name Phenion. With this decision Henkel our strategy while we actively share our vision and we want to provide our share of
took the next level of responsibility to achievements”! it.
avoid animal testing and to support the
development of new in vitro methodolo- EURO COSMETICS: I can see the visionary EURO COSMETICS: At the beginning of
gies and their application. Initially, scien- character of “… ultimately omitting ani- November 2020, Henkel completed the ac-
tists at Henkel have developed skin models mal testing around the globe …”. Can you quisition of the epiCS Technology from the
intended to be used for internal projects please exemplify on how Phenion strategi- SkinInVitro GmbH, which is headquar-
only. At that time in vitro grown human cally develops towards achieving this goal? tered in Troisdorf, Germany. What consid-
skin was employed in data generation, for Dr. Dirk Petersohn: Key for the strategic erations led to this?
e.g. safety assessments or product develop- developments at Phenion is the customer. Dr. Dirk Petersohn: Our ambition for
ments in all three business areas. As the We listen very closely to their needs and Phenion is to expedite the development,
skin models from Henkel are very similar aim for understanding their pain-points or dissemination and use of alternative test
to human skin in many anatomical and challenges, to provide support and develop methods. The partnership with our cus-
physiological characteristics, they are ideal solutions. Thus, it becomes obvious that in tomers teaches us about the constant need
tools for assessing effects on human skin. our eyes, the customer is more than only for the generation of regulatory accepted
Thus, with the decision to grant access to the basis of a business relation – customers data on skin irritation and skin corrosion.
the skin model technology Henkel sup- are our partners! Like in a good partner- This is possible with test systems refer-
ports third parties, like test laboratories or ship we trust in, and care for each other. In enced in OECD Test Guidelines (OECD
TG) like the epiCS Technology. This tech-
Phenion FT Skin Models in the standard (left) and INSERT version (right) nology is listed in the OECD TGs for skin
irritation (TG 439) and skin corrosion (TG
431).
In alignment with our vision and strategy
to broaden the Phenion portfolio in a tar-
geted way and to secure a sustainable
access to the epiCS Technology we found
an agreement with the SkinInVitro GmbH
to continue the technology under the
Phenion roof.

EURO COSMETICS: Can you share with us
the efforts that have been made to secure a
sustainable access to epiCS tissues?

1/2-2021 5 EURO COSMETICS

COVER STORY

Phenion – The Henkel Brand

epiCS models in air-liquid interface culture decisions by our vision of a just cause, as EURO COSMETICS: How does the epiCS
mentioned above. May it be small, in e.g. skin technology fit in with your biotechno-
Dr. Dirk Petersohn: It is to highlight that a publishing protocols or may it be bigger, in logically created skin models existing
comprehensive technology transfer was integrating e.g. the epiCS technology. With under the Phenion brand?
conducted to secure a seamless high-qual- the epiCS technology on board of Phenion, Dr. Dirk Petersohn: The epiCS technology
ity production of epiCS tissues under the our customers can now profit from a perfectly complements our existing skin
roof of Phenion. In detail, we conducted a broader tissue portfolio that can fulfill dif- model portfolio. To investigate certain
tiered approach, for which, in a first step, a ferent needs, e.g. to support basic research physiological topics or specific toxicologi-
Phenion expert was introduced into the topics or to address toxicological endpoints cal endpoints, not only the epidermis but
tissue production processes at SkinInVitro. like skin corrosion, skin irritation or gene also the underlying dermis is required.
Secondly, experts from SkinInVitro and toxicity, etc. The intense and physiological interaction
Phenion jointly produced qualified epiCS As we are aware of the different needs for of both skin layers can be of utmost impor-
tissues. In a third step the Phenion expert testing of dermally applied chemicals and tance. For example, the well- described
produced qualified epiCS tissues on its medical devices, we constantly expand the effects of retinoic acid and its derivatives is
own in the SkinInVitro laboratory. With Phenion product portfolio to support tai- highly depending on the metabolism and
this intensive training the Phenion expert lor-made solutions in basic research for signaling of both skin layers. Moreover,
was perfectly prepared to produce in par- academic clients and across industry sec- investigation of toxicological endpoints,
allel to CellSystems several qualified epiCS tors. such as e.g. gene toxicity depends on the
tissue batches in the Phenion laboratories. intrinsic capacity of skin models to reflect
These tissues were subsequently used for EURO COSMETICS: What can you tell us the natural occurring transformation of
successful skin irritation testing with iden- about the science of the epiCS skin model chemicals into metabolites, a characteristic
tical sets of chemicals. Finally, the success technology? which differs between epidermis and der-
of the technology transfer was proven by Dr. Dirk Petersohn: With the epiCS tech- mis.
producing more than 20 consecutive qual- nology, we provide human skin models Finally, one needs to appreciate that phys-
ified tissue batches at Phenion. In accor- that exclusively represent the epidermis, iological effects upon any kind of stimuli
dance with our vision to share our the upper part of human skin. These mod- can occur in the epidermis as well as in the
achievements, the data generated during els consist of all relevant epidermal layers dermis and consequently a comprehensive
the technology transfer will be published including the stratum corneum, which assessment can only be generated by ana-
in due time. contributes to a large extent to the skin lyzing both, the epidermis and the dermis.
In addition, we had the pleasure to wel- barrier. To a certain extent, epidermal Being aware of these benefits, the Phenion
come the experts of the SkinInVitro pro- models have what is needed to assess re- Full Thickness Skin Models have been
duction team in Phenion. Consequently, sponses to external stimuli. Detrimental jointly used with diverse partners to devel-
our customers can be assured that the effects resulting in skin corrosion or skin op the 3D Skin Comet Assay. This develop-
epiCS products are provided from Phenion irritation are manifested at this site of first ment was funded lately by Cosmetics
at unchanged quality. contact, the epidermis. Thus, the respec- Europe, the European trade association for
tive testing of chemicals can be perfectly the cosmetics and personal care industry.
EURO COSMETICS: And what benefits will conducted by using reconstructed human With its excellent predictivity, the 3D-Skin
arise from the acquisition for you and your epidermis, like the epiCS tissues. Comet Assay is on the OECD working plan
customers? for developing the respective OECD TG.
Dr. Dirk Petersohn: We are guided in our Having these examples in mind, it becomes
obvious, that the choice of the test system
is determined by the question to be ad-
dressed. Customers are now able to find
the most relevant skin models at Phenion
in one place. Additionally, we provide skin
cells, namely keratinocytes, which build
the epidermis, and fibroblast, which popu-
late the dermis. Both cell types may be
used for screening experiments with a
higher throughput compared to complex
approaches with skin tissues like the
OECD approved epiCS tissues and the
Phenion FT Skin Models.

EURO COSMETICS: Human reconstructed
skin has become increasingly important in
various areas in recent years. How do you

1/2-2021 6 EURO COSMETICS

COVER STORY

Phenion – The Henkel Brand

regard this development? collagen gels. This sponge-like scaffold is Cell culture work
Dr. Dirk Petersohn: I can only echo what populated by the fibroblasts, which in turn
you have said! The development of 3D find sufficient space and build their own intelligence, 3D bio-printing, etc. animal
human tissue models, and in particular of extracellular matrix. This de novo pro- tests will ultimately vanish and will be re-
3D human skin models, has gained great duced matrix is composed of different placed. As Henkel has committed to that
momentum in the recent years. While in natural proteins including elastin, which is vision, it fills me with pride to contribute
the past mono-layer cultures of skin cells to our knowledge a unique and relevant to this field.
like fibroblast and keratinocytes where the physiological property of the Phenion Full
research tool of choice, 3D models of the Thickness Skin Models. EURO COSMETICS: We have learned
epidermis entered the scene and are mean- about your long-term goals, that are well
while broadly exploited. These types of EURO COSMETICS: You already men- described in your vision. What can you tell
tissue models were already a great achieve- tioned, by partnering with your customers us about your medium objectives in re-
ment. The following milestone was to lift and by listening to their research needs, search?
reconstructed skin models to the next that you have developed very specific vari- Dr. Dirk Petersohn: Skin represents the
level, that more comprehensively mimic ants of the human skin models. Thus, you site of first contact for a plethora of chemi-
the complex architecture and physiology can look back across a long history. What, cals. For assessing the chemicals’ safety,
of full thickness human skin. One great from your point of view, has been your also the skin sensitization potential is of
challenge for such full thickness skin mod- biggest success? great interest. The current knowledge of
els was to develop an environment for the Dr. Dirk Petersohn: The successful devel- the skin sensitization mechanism is well
fibroblasts that provide natural conditions opment of the stabilized collagen matrix described by the so-called adverse out-
for the cells. Such environment shall con- was a first milestone and represents the come pathway (AOP). Currently, several
tain collagen as a major component of the basis for new variants of the full thickness methods have been developed that cover
extracellular matrix in skin. Scientists in skin model. Meanwhile we have developed certain steps of the AOP. Wouldn’t it be
this field have often used collagen gels, in accordance with customer needs a fam- great to develop one method that covers
which then have been enriched with der- ily of full thickness skin models, including several steps of skin sensitization? Jointly
mal fibroblasts. Despite very specific appli- the LONG-LIFE, AGED, LARGE and IN- with academic partners we aim for a stan-
cations, this approach has a serious SERT skin model variants. I would not dardized immune competent skin model
downside: With their integrin receptors, dare to nominate “the biggest success”, as that provide (I) a functional skin barrier,
fibroblasts bind to the collagen fibers and each model addresses a specific research (II) a representative skin metabolism, (III)
reorganize the collagen gel by applying need and represents a step toward our vi- typical skin proteins for haptenization re-
mechanical forces. Ultimately, the gel in- sion of omitting animal testing around the actions, (IV) and in addition to keratino-
cluding the fibroblast shrinks to a very globe. Consequently, each tissue model is cytes immune-competent cells for their
dense and compact structure, that is not equally important on our journey. We are respective activation. We consider that
able to provide a natural environment for aware, that there is still a long way ahead such a test system would be beneficial to
the cells anymore. Knowing these undesir- of us and new challenges will cross our complement the existing test methods in a
able effects, the Phenion scientists devel- way. Nevertheless, I believe that with new tiered approach.
oped a stabilized collagen matrix which developments and technologies, including
avoids the shrinking of tissues seen with tissue engineering, in silico-tools, artificial

Phenion FT LARGE model EURO COSMETICS: Thank you very much

for the interview. n

1/2-2021 7 EURO COSMETICS

EURO COSMETICS DIGITAL SPECIAL ISSUE CHINA

in cooperation with PCHi-Reed Sinopharm
and China Cosmetics Review

Want to be seen with your profile?

Contact: [email protected]

DEADLINE March 9, 2021

www.eurocosmetics-magazine.com B 50962

THE MAGAZINE FOR COSMETIC INDUSTRY LEADERS

EURO COSMETICS 4

January/February · Volume No. 29 C OVER STORY

3 SUPPLIER’S PANORAMA Interview with Dr. Dirk Petersohn,
11 EDITORIAL Henkel Beauty Care Technologies
12 NAMES & NEWS

14
TECHNOLOGY R&D

14 Skin Sensitivity & the Microbiome Phenion FT LARGE model 20

An In-Depth Look at Multi-Functional T ECHNOLOGY R&D
Causation Formulating
By Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck NMD
18 Bacterial Contamination Regional Skin Care Considerations
in Cold-Processed Cosmetic Products for Ethnic Skin
By John Misock
24 LactoSporin®
A Dream Solution for Acne free Smooth Skin
By Dr. Muhammed Majeed,
Dr. Lakshmi Mundkur and Shaheen Majeed

1/2-2021 9 EURO COSMETICS

33

EXPERT INSIGHTS
Focus Scent

Training can help recover
from lost sense of smell

27 GUEST POST 42 NEW INGREDIENTS

Technical Marketing 43 Sabinsas pTeroWhite® ist ein
Evolution, Responsibilities and standardisierter Extrakt, der aus dem
Employment Opportunities Kernholz von Pterocarpus marsupium
By Jamileh Lakkis, Ph.D. gewonnen wird

36 SPECIAL COVERAGE 45 NEW PRODUCTS
46 PACKAGING INDUSTRY
Programmable aromas enable 4 8 Index of Advertisers/
completely new cosmetic
and perfume products Imprint
By Heimo Adamski 49 SUPPLIER’S GUIDE
51 VIRTUAL EVENTS
38

NEWS & TALK

I nterview with
Ananth (K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan),
Professor and Director of
Cosmetic Science Program, UC
(University of Cincinnati)

1/2-2021 10 EURO COSMETICS

FROM EDITOR’S DESK

Dear Readers, Liebe Leserinnen und Leser,

as we turn the page from “normal” to “abnormal” to the daily während wir von der Seite „Normal“ zu „New-Abnormal“, also
“New-Abnormal”, my thoughts turn to the essentials of making zu unserer täglichen „neuen Normalität“, umblättern, treibt mich
global life tolerable and sustainable. We, the cosmetic commu- insbesondere eine Frage um: Was benötigen wir eigentlich, um
nity, are leaders in humanity’s search for wellness and peace in das Leben auf der ganzen Welt erträglich und nachhaltig gestal-
this troubling time. ten zu können? Wir alle, die in der Kosmetikbranche tätig sind,
nehmen eine führende Rolle ein, wenn es darum geht, den Men-
Our magazine issue this month is designed to empower your schen Wohlbefinden und Ruhe in dieser beunruhigenden Zeit zu
chaotic mind towards a semblance of quietude. You can stop schenken.
worrying about which preservative to use by reading John
Misock’s “Bacterial Contamination in Cold-Processed Cos- So hält diese Ausgabe interessanten Lesestoff bereit, der das
metic Products”. This article describes the emergence of genetic Gedankenwirrwarr sortiert und für mehr Klarheit in der aktuel-
testing advances that allow investigators to arrive at the root len Krise sorgt. Sie müssen sich keine Gedanken mehr darüber
causes of such outbreaks. machen, welches Konservierungsmittel Sie verwenden sollten,
nachdem Sie den Artikel von John Misocks zum Thema „Bac-
How you ask? Amid the era of job loss emerges a new kind of terial Contamination in Cold-Processed Cosmetic Products“
expert. Jamileh Lakkis, author of “Technical Marketing: Evo- gelesen haben. Dieser beschreibt die Fortschritte in der geneti-
lution, Responsibilities and Employment Opportunities” schen Diagnostik, die es Experten ermöglichen, den Ursachen
points to the newly coined consolidation of two types of thinking solcher Ausbrüche auf den Grund zu gehen.
people. They, who have long been separated by a deep argu-
mentative chasm, are the “technical-thinking” people and their Sie fragen sich, wie es weitergeht? Angesichts der zunehmenden
typical adversaries, the “marketing-thinking” people. From the Angst vor Arbeitsplatzverlust entsteht derzeit ein neues spannen-
ashes now arises the new hope of the “Technical Marketers” des Tätigkeitsfeld. Jamileh Lakkis weist in ihrem Artikel „Techni-
cal Marketing: Evolution, Responsibilities and Employment
Finally, I recommend the article by Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D., Opportunities” auf zwei Denkweisen hin, die sich bis dato ver-
“Dermo-Cosmetics: The Emerging New Face of the Beauty festigt haben. Da gibt es zum einen die Mitarbeiter, die tech-
and Health Category” which inquires into the dramatic escalat- nisch-orientiert denken, und ihre typischen Gegenspieler, die
ing change of consumer behavior during the past decades and Marketer. Zwei Gruppen, die sich stark in ihrer argumentativen
the demand for new products that not only enhance appearance, Vorgehensweise unterscheiden. Doch die neue Rolle des „Techni-
but also that impact the quality-of-life. This need for cosmetics schen Marketer“ lässt hoffnungsvoll in die Zukunft blicken.
that provide health benefits, in addition to appearance enhanc-
ers, has led to the new multi-functional category of “cosmetics” Ein weiterer Artikel, den ich Ihnen ans Herz lege möchte, stammt
that include, but are not limited to areas known as: Cosmeceu- aus der Feder von Magdy M. Abdel-Malik, Ph.D. Dabei geht es
ticals, Nutricosmetics and Nutraceuticals (Oral Cosmetic). This um das Thema „Dermo-Cosmetics: The Emerging New Face
concomitance of earlier categories shares the goal of providing of the Beauty and Health Category”. Die Autorin setzt sich mit
consumers with “Functional Products” that delay the senescence den dramatischen Veränderungen bezüglich des Verbraucherver-
process of skin, body and mind, while improving quality of life. haltens in den letzten Jahrzehnten auseinander. Ihr besonderes
Augenmerk liegt dabei auf der Nachfrage nach neuen Produkten,
Meyer R. Rosen die nicht nur für besseres Aussehen sorgen, sondern auch zu
Editor-in Chief mehr Lebensqualität beitragen. Dieser Bedarf an kosmetischen
Produkten, die Gesundheits- und Schönheitsaspekte vereinen,
hat zu der neuen multifunktionalen Kategorie der "Kosmetika“
geführt, die unter anderem folgende Bereiche umfasst: Cosme-
ceuticals (Wirkstoffkosmetika), Nutricosmetics und Nutraceu-
ticals (Nahrungsergänzungsmittel). Ziel der Zusammenlegung
früherer Kategorien ist es, dem Verbraucher sogenannte „Func-
tional Products“ zur Verfügung zu stellen, die den Alterungspro-
zess von Haut, Körper und Geist verlangsamen und gleichzeitig
die Lebensqualität verbessern.

1/2-2021 11 EURO COSMETICS

NAMES & NEWS

Evonik wins Henkel Sustainability Award Estée Lauder appoints ex-Unilever
for Second Year in a Row Roberto Canevari as Global Supply Chain head

Evonik’s RHEANCE® One platform of green biosurfactants The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) has appointed
was recognized in the Beauty Care category for sustainability Roberto Canevari to the role of Executive Vice President,
at the 14th Annual Henkel Awards, which were announced at Global Supply Chain, effective May 1, 2021. He succeeds
a gala virtual event during American Cleaning Industry (ACI) Gregory F. Polcer, who has made the decision to retire, effecti-
Annual Meeting. Last year, Evonik also won the Henkel Sus- ve July 1, 2021.
tainability Award for a novel conditioner with excellent bio-
degradability that is sourced from natural, renewable materi- Mr. Canevari will oversee the company’s Global Supply Chain
als. operations, including end-to-end procurement, manufacturing,
planning, quality assurance and logistics. He will report direct-
The improvement of human life is at the center of Evonik’s ly to Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer.
Nutrition & Care division. As the home of the Company’s
biotechnology portfolio, the development of advanced bio- Roberto Canevari has held supply chain leadership roles
materials that utilize more sustainable manufacturing and across a variety of industries. He most recently served as
sourcing processes is a core driver of innovation and growth. Unilever PLC’s Executive Vice President of Supply Chain,
The Care Solutions business line of Evonik continues to Europe, where he oversaw end-to-end supply chain operations
demonstrate these sustainability principles with the develop- for the company’s European business.
ment of differentiated products such as RHEANCE® One.

Henkel also awarded Evonik second place for Best Supply
Performance and Best Innovation Contributor.

Symrise verstärkt Scent & Care Segment Symrise to expand Scent & Care Activities
durch Erwerb der Duftstoff-Geschäfts- through Acquisition of Sensient’s
einheit von Sensient Fragrances Business Unit

Die Symrise AG hat eine Kaufvereinbarung mit der Symrise AG has signed a purchase agreement with
Sensient Technologies Corporation (Milwaukee, USA) Sensient Technologies Corporation (Milwaukee, USA) to
über die Akquisition ihres Fragrance und Aroma Chemi- acquire their fragrance and aroma chemicals activities.
cals Geschäfts unterzeichnet. Diese Aktivitäten umfassen These comprise a wide range of aroma molecules and
verschiedene Aroma Molecules Lösungen und Duftstoffe fragrances from natural and renewable sources. In fiscal
aus natürlichen und erneuerbaren Quellen. Im Geschäfts- year 2019, the business unit generated revenues of ap-
jahr 2019 erwirtschaftete die Geschäftseinheit einen Um- prox. 77 million Euros. With the acquisition, Symrise will
satz von rund 77 Mio. Euro. Mit der Akquisition stärkt strengthen its backward integration and broaden its lea-
Symrise seine Rückwärtsintegration und baut die führen- dership position as a supplier of fragrance ingredients
de Position als Anbieter von Duftstoffen für die Anwen- which are increasingly demanded for use, especially in
dung in Körperpflege- und Haushaltsprodukten aus. personal and home care products.

1/2-2021 12 EURO COSMETICS

NAMES & NEWS

Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty has announced global leadership changes Firmenich appoints Levenza Toh as
of their Consumer Products and Fine Fragrance businesses. VP Perfumery, Southeast Asia, Japan & Korea

Givaudan Fragrance & Beauty announces Levenza Toh is succeeding Rajan Arul to the position of Vice
key leadership changes President, Perfumery, Southeast Asia, Japan and Korea at
Firmenich. Based out of Singapore, she will be responsible for
After more than 30 years at Givaudan, Colin O’Neill, leading the Perfumery business in the region Rajan Arul is
Global Head of Consumer Products, Fragrance & Beauty has retiring from Firmenich after 33 years with the organization.
decided to retire at the end of April 2021. After his retire- Levenza Toh joins Firmenich from Global Amines Company, a
ment, he will continue to support the group as a consultant joint venture between Clariant and Wilmar, where she held the
on some key business initiatives. position of General Manager APAC, leading sales, marketing,
business development, technical, R&D and manufacturing.
In parallel, Givaudan has appointed Felix Mayr-Harting as Prior to that, she worked at Clariant, BASF and Royal Dutch
Global Head of Consumer Products – Fragrance & Beauty, Shell in various commercial roles. Mrs Toh holds a BA with
effective February 1st, 2021. Felix brings 28 years of experi- Honors in Chemical Engineering from the National University
ence in the Fragrance industry and a deep knowledge of of Singapore and a dual Executive MBA from Tsinghua SEM
Givaudan. and INSEAD.

IMCD Group appoints new Business Group
Director Personal Care

IMCD announces that Irene Cantos has been appointed
Business Group Director Personal Care.

In her role, Irene, will lead the Business Group Personal Care in
becoming the global player of choice for both suppliers and
customers in the distribution of speciality ingredients. The group
aims to grow both organically and through acquisitions and will
strive to provide differentiating and premium customer experience
through unbeatable local service, advanced Marketing, Digital &
Technical capabilities and excellent understanding of the industry
trends and needs.

Irene is Spanish and brings about 16 years of international
business, strategy and management experience in the distribution
of speciality ingredients in regulated markets.

She will be based at the IMCD offices in Barcelona, Spain, and will
be reporting to IMCD’s CEO, Piet van der Slikke.

1/2-2021 13 EURO COSMETICS

Editor’s Note:
Much effort, of late, has been focused on skin sensi-
tivity and what cosmetic science can do to both un-
derstand the phenomenon as well as what actions
can be taken to improve this condition. This article
elucidates, in depth, the connection between neuro-
genic inflammation, allergic inflammation, and
central nervous system involvement. Additionally, it
educates the reader in the multiple sources of skin
sensitivity as being either correlated or greatly influ-
enced by ecological aberrations and the influx of nu-
tritional deficits and gastrointestinal dysbiosis.

Skin Sensitivity & the Microbiome

An In-Depth Look at Multi-Functional Causation

By Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck NMD

Introduction Corneotherapy

Skin sensitivity has become increasingly prevalent among var- Corneotherapy is the scientific validation of the skin’s integrity
ied age groups and skin photo types as described in the dermato- and its correlation with internal and external lipids. It endorses
logical Fitzpatrick classifications. It has been proposed that skin optimizing immune function and supporting barrier defense sys-
sensitivity has a positivity rate of about 40% worldwide with iden- tems to aid in reducing structural inflammation 2. The skin is con-
tifying characteristics being: sensitive, very sensitive, not very tinually subjected to both chemical and environmental assault
sensitive or no skin sensitivity at all 1. Skin sensitivities may pre- and must be able to withstand these factors in order to act as the
sent in skin conditions such as dry or alipidic, combination skin, defense mechanism. Additionally, the skin provides metabolic
rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and fair photo types which frequently function, sensation and has the innate responsibility to repair it-
experience increased skin reactivity to cosmetics and various en- self, as it is “impermeable but not impenetrable” 3.
vironmental triggers.
One of the key determinants in skin sensitivity is the disruption
Clinical Observations of the stratum corneum and the status of the skin barrier function
involving TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and surface lipids.
The clinical observations of sensitive skin are described as ab- Lipids are vital to the skins surface for protection and are core
normal stinging, burning, pain, pruritus and tingling sensations in components for skin health and functionality. The skin’s stratum
response to multiple factors which may be physical, chemical, corneum affords us a lipid and protein laden cornified surface
psychological or hormonal. Interestingly, erythema is not consid- populated with hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It offers vital
ered a general characteristic of sensitive skin but may occur lipids, antimicrobial peptides, enzymes, salts, and many other
frequently in those with sensitive skin syndromes. Exposure to compounds. It is an acidic, and aerobic environment with a com-
irritants and agents that disorient the skin’s acid mantle, natural plex abundance of lipids. Qualities such as the acidic environ-
lipids and water content will increase vulnerability to skin sensi- ment and barrier protection not only influence the appearance of
tivity. Many individuals are sensitive to at least one common in- the skin, but overall barrier stability, and the integration of the
gredient in skin care or cosmetic products, and the potential for flora.
irritation and sensitivity increases with those individuals with an
impaired stratum corneum. Additional contributing factors in- Sebum
volve the skin’s immune system, medications, general health and
the confirmation of classic sensitive skin conditions such as rosa- Sebum possesses an innate antibacterial activity and has both
cea, psoriasis and eczema. pro and anti-inflammatory functions as it can regulate the promo-
tion of foreign substances that are dangerous to the body or xe-

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Example of treatment before and after – Neurodermatitis, Psoriasis. Haptens
Occlusive barrier ointment – Phosphatidylcholine base, antioxidants.
© Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck NMD 2020 Haptens are electrophilic compounds that elicit an immune re-
sponse when they are bound to a carrier protein. They are <1kDa,
and act as cutaneous allergens eliciting reactions on the skin.
Each hapten has a specific allergen potential including its binding
and permeation into the skin. With regard to contact sensitivity,
haptens immediately react with keratinocytes, Langerhans cells,
and dermal dendritic cells. The binding of haptens to keratino-
cytes causes the release of several interleukin mediators and tis-
sue necrosis factors. This process activates Langerhans cells and
dermal dendritic cells furthering a migration to the lymph node to
present hapten-antigen T cells. Mast cells then appear and further
the release of cytokines eliciting sensitization.

nobiotics. High density areas of sebaceous glands, such as the Contact Hypersensitivity
face, chest and back, encourage the growth of lipophilic microor-
ganisms [(for example, Cutibacterium (formerly Propionibacteri- Contact hypersensitivity is considered an example of a type of
um) and Malassezia (tinea versicolor and seborrheic dermatitis)]. IV hypersensitivity reaction involving T cell reaction 6. The pro-
Some of these lipids, such as sapienic (sebum fatty acids) and cess of percutaneous penetration through the stratum corneum
triglycerides can also be metabolized by microbes into free fatty leads to the hapten response by compounds less than <500 Da for
acids due to antibacterial properties from palmitoleic and oleic efficient penetration permitting the sensitizing agent to come in
acid. Effective agents such as phosphatidylcholine, essential fatty contact with the skin and haptenize the self-proteins in the skin 7.
acids, and ceramides in these components offer substantial pro- Generally low molecular weight substances may act as haptens.
tection for the barrier due to their likeness to sebum itself. Thus, These may be activated before they actually become “allergenic”.
they and not only assist with barrier repair but are supportive in Pre-haptens may present as low sensitizing. However, by simple
the reduction of skin irritation. transformation outside the skin via oxidation or photo activation,
the pre-hapten is transformed into a hapten. Several potentials
The Sensitization Phase and Haptens such as air oxidation, and metabolic bio activation will also con-
tribute to whether or not a particular allergen that is directly reac-
The stinging sensation experienced by skin sensitivity can be tive might acts as a prehapten, prohapten or both 8.
explained as a reaction to a proportion of neurons responding to
stimuli. Stimulatory triggers such as chemicals, fragrances and Multiple Chemical Sensitivities (MCS)
pollutants activate receptors that release neuropeptides to initiate
the inflammatory response. Neuropeptides are vital in the process Multiple chemical sensitivities (MCS), also referred to as idio-
of tissue repair and are equally active in triggering inflammatory pathic environmental intolerances (IEI), – is identified by a branch
responses such as urticaria (hives). Neurogenic sensitivity (neuro- of environmental medicine that addresses specifically environ-
dermatitis) may also provoke reactions to various triggers that are mental influences and illnesses. Multiple chemical sensitivity syn-
sustained from chronic exposure. The reactivity of what is re- dromes represent unusual and severe allergy-like reactions to any
ferred to as transient receptor potential (TRP) channels in the number of assorted and, often, common chemicals and pollutants
skin are responsive to multiple factors that may be physical and – such as solvents, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), perfumes,
or chemical 4. TRP channels are molecules with specific functions cosmetics, smoke, air fresheners, candles, petrol, exhaust, build-
in the skin that feature “cation channels” and are expressed by ing vapors, and cleaning products. This plethora of trojan horse
various cell types: sebocytes, keratinocytes, sensory neurons and attackers may constitute as many as 90,000 chemicals circulating
hair follicle cells. Their activation has been shown to induce heat in the world 9.
sensation and the development of skin-derived pruritus and may
suppress sebaceous lipid synthesis. Additionally, activation of MCS are Different from Traditional Allergies
TRPV1 and TRPV3 channels either on epidermal or hair follicle-
derived keratinocytes results in increased cytokine release, as These multiple chemical sensitivities are different from tradi-
well as the generation of free radicals, and pro inflammatory mol- tional allergies which can be determined by laboratory testing.
ecules 5. Immunogenic inflammation is mediated by the immune Many of the individuals afflicted with MCS are sensitive to several
system in the same way the body would defend against a virus. antagonists and often obscure irritants may trigger a severe dis-
tress syndrome in addition to the primary sensitivities that may
The resulting reactions may include sensitization, pain, redness have been identified. In a large number of individuals, the mech-
and swelling. Chronic stress, malnutrition, medication, dehydra-
tion, and illness may also contribute to the responsiveness of skin
sensitivity.

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or allergens as well as microorganisms and it has been shown that
the integrity of the skin barrier and the microbiota are engineered
to protect the body against external aggressions. Factors that may
alter the microbiota whether external or internal are linked and
evidenced to inflammatory skin diseases. Dry skin impacts the
microbiome as water is important factor for microbial develop-
ment and balance on the skin. Trans-epidermal water loss fre-
quently occurs where the microbiome is continuously stressed or
compromised by harsh detergents, surfactants or over washing of
the skin. Such stressors are emerging in many as a result of the
safeguarding instructions associated with frequent hand washing
in the COVID era. Staphylococci bacteria often appear on dry skin
and inhibits the presence of commensal microorganisms and may
contribute to skin sensitivity and irritation.

anisms are not as easily identifiable and are therefore idiopathic. Pathways for Cosmetic Product
For some, traditional therapies such as steroids and allergy medi- Research & Development
cines do not bring relief and the best possible outcome for treat-
ment is avoidance of any and all potential triggers and exposures. The Microbiome movement has created innovative pathways
There is a connection between neurogenic inflammation, allergic for product research and development in cosmetic formulation.
inflammation, and central nervous system involvement. Within an Novel formulas featuring pro- and prebiotic hybrids focus on spe-
allergic reaction, histamine binds to sensory nerves and activates cific skin concerns such as redness, skin irritation, acne and sensi-
neurogenic inflammation. Many individuals with chemical sensi- tive skin. Synergistically, pre and probiotics present as species
tivities have rosacea with erythema and inflammation triggered specific with regard to the microbiome, their function and their
by exposure to foods and chemicals. mechanism of activity. The viability of a particular probiotic strain
necessitates consideration of both the species activity aligned
Airborne particles can also aggravate airborne contact dermati- with the skin condition to address barrier and microbiota imbal-
tis, and individuals who suffer from MCS may even have reactions ances. The popularity of the organics movement has propelled
to sensitive skin products, as their allergies may not be identified and continues to fuel the success of probiotics in the personal
by simple allergy tests. care industry with healthy projections close in view – the global
probiotics cosmetic products market is anticipated to reach
The Microbiome 37.8 million by 2025 13.

The microbiome represents a unique ecosystem of the skin’s Pre and Probiotics Used in Cosmetics
microbiota with much research being focused on the relativity of
the microbiome and its interaction with various skin conditions. • Lactobacillus (Lactobacillus Ferment) – Most widely used strain
The majority of microbial inhabitants on the skin’s surface are • Acetobacter
referred to as commensal bacteria and help to support the terrain • Aspergillus
of the epidermis. The benefits of friendly bacteria include pre- • Bacillus
venting transient pathogenic organisms from colonizing the skin • Bifidobacterium
surface. This phenomenon occurs either by contending for fatty • Lactococcus
acids and nutrients, secreting chemicals against them or stimulat- • Leuconostoc
ing the skin’s immune system. Mainstream scientific, cosmetic and • Pediococcus
medical research has regarded the increase in skin sensitivity and • Saccharomyces
inflammatory skin diseases as being either correlated or greatly • Streptococcus
influenced by ecological aberrations and the influx of nutritional • Zygosaccharomyces
deficits and gastrointestinal dysbiosis. Various studies correlate • Fructans
the relationship of skin sensitivity and the microbiome regarding • Fructoligosaccharides
a relative abundance of Staphylococcus epidermis in skins with a • Inulin
higher moisture content and reduced erythema level. Additional- • Galacto oligosaccharides
ly, sensitive skin presents a variable microbiome with lower bac- • Galactose monomers
terial diversity and lower counts of S. epidermidis than non-sensi- • Lactulose
tive skin 10, 11. The symptomology of sensitive skin is frequently • Conjugated linoleic acid
aligned to the barrier function, surface lipids, pH and the micro- • Polyunsaturated fatty acids
biome – as there is a close interrelationship between skin pH and • Polyphenols and phytochemicals
the microbiota.

An impaired skin barrier facilitates the penetration of irritants

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References

1 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6533878/
2 https://www.corneotherapy.org/about-corneotherapy/what-is-corneotherapy
3 https://www.corneotherapy.org/articles/article-library/119-the-epidemic-of-over-exfoliation
4 https://www.nature.com/articles/nrd3456#figure-title
5 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4009000/
6 https://www.hindawi.com/journals/jir/2014/175265/
7 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3578582/
8 https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/opinions_layman/perfume-allergies/en/l-2/3-becoming-allergens.htm
9 “Chemical Sensitivity.” American Academy of Environmental Medicine -https://www.aaemonline.org/chemicalsensitivity.php.
10 https://corp.shiseido.com/en/newsimg/2960_u0j92_en.pdf
11 Microorganisms 2020, 8, 1752; doi:10.3390/microorganisms8111752
12 https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/exd.13686
13 https://connect.in-cosmetics.com/regions/in-cosmetics-asia/probiotic-skincare-topical-use-and-supplements/ n

Dr. Erin Madigan-Fleck NMD has authored esthetic trade articles for over 20 years and lectures nationally.
She is an esthetician, naturopathic physician and licensed esthetic instructor and serves on the advisory board
for Skin Inc. magazine. Dr. M. Fleck is a member of the Society for Dermatological Skin Care Specialists and
the International Association for Applied Corneotherapy. Dr. Madigan-Fleck is a graduate of the University of
Science, Arts & Technology College of Medicine and has a private practice in Atlanta, GA.

Advertisement

B1e7s.u–c1h9e.n2.S2ie02u1ns!

TECHNOLOGY R&D

Bacterial Contamination
in Cold-Processed
Cosmetic Products

By John Misock

Introduction updates-multistate-outbreak-burkholderia-cepacia-infections).
Genetic testing advances have allowed investigators to arrive at
The shift away from traditional preservatives, such as parabens root causes of outbreaks at a much more rapid pace and with
and formaldehyde releasers to less traditional preservative sys- fewer samples than was possible less than a decade ago.
tems, along with improperly installed, maintained and operated
water purification systems are a major cause of contamination Although FDA has not adopted GMP regulations specific to cos-
events in cold processed personal care products. This article metics, it is highly recommended to follow GMP guidance that
describes the emergence of genetic testing advances that have FDA has published for other regulated products, including puri-
allowed investigators to arrive at the root causes of such out- fied water. FDA samples and tests cosmetics at the port and after
breaks. introduction into commerce. Also, many distributors and retailers
conduct their own surveillance and are compelled to report re-
Opportunistic Pathogens calls they have initiated based on real or perceived adverse events.
may be Lurking in your Cosmetics The following is a quote from 2017 FDA guidance concerning the
prevalence of BCC in drug products. “The FDA advises drug man-
Burkholderia cepacia complex (BCC) are a closely related species ufacturers of non-sterile, water-based drug products that there
of Gram-negative bacteria that has been identified by FDA in per- have been recent product recalls due to Burkholderia cepacia
sonal care products, including cosmetics. The presence of BCC in complex (BCC or B. cepacia) contamination. BCC and other
cold processed cosmetics and OTC drug products has resulted in water-borne opportunistic pathogens are among the contami-
several outbreak investigations, mainly in nosocomial settings. nants that can be found in pharmaceutical water systems.”
BCC are opportunistic pathogens capable of causing severe ad- (https://www.fda.gov/drugs/drug-safety-and-availability/fda-ad-
verse health issues in susceptible populations, including elderly, vises-drug-manufacturers-burkholderia-cepacia-complex-poses-
children and people who are immune compromised or who have contamination-risk-non-sterile )
other health issues.
Although not mentioned in the guidance, BCC is also common
The ability to detect BCC using genetic ID methodology has in cosmetic products that are cold processed and manufactured
enhanced the determination of BCC as a cause of numerous out- using purified water. Several cosmetic recalls have been initiated
breaks. FDA has adopted PCR and other genetic ID methods that due to BBC contamination. A 2008 report of an investigation into
have now become routine testing for cosmetics and drugs that are an outbreak in an intensive care unit found that the presence of
tested in FDA labs. BCC in cosmetic products (Moisturizer), even within accepted
limits (<100 cfu), may lead to severe life-threatening infections
A 2016 multistate outbreak linked to a manufacturer of oral (Crit Care. 2008; 12(1): 115. Published online 2008 Feb 20. doi:
liquid ducosate sodium led to temporary cessation of use of all 10.1186/cc6781 PMCID: MC2374588 PMID: 18304377). As is the
such products until the investigation linked multiple contaminat- case with drug contamination, even if initial testing passes ac-
ed brands to a single manufacturer using PCR methods. The in- cepted levels (<100 CFU), BCC can survive and grow out after it
vestigation determined that the source of BCC was not due to is shipped. When FDA looks for it they will find it, even if routine
an API, but likely was caused by contaminated purified water analysis has not.
(https://www.fda.gov/drugs/drug-safety-and-availability/fda-
A robust system to control B. cepacia, and other opportunistic
pathogens, is necessary to lessen the likelihood that the presence

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TECHNOLOGY R&D

of these microorganisms cause a problem months after they leave taminated by the presence of Gram-negative microorganisms em-
the manufacturers control. This is true for two main reasons. First, anating from purified water systems. Gram negative bacteria, in-
the shift away from traditional preservatives, such as parabens cluding B. cereus, are easily killed by heating a batch to pasteuri-
and formaldehyde releasers, to less traditional preservative sys- zation temperatures (105 kill). Periodic hot water (80C+) sanitiza-
tems. And second, improperly installed, maintained and operated tion of purified water systems is highly recommended. Without a
water purification systems. These two factors are a major cause of kill step, bacteria embedded in biofilm will remain dormant until
contamination events in cold processed personal care products the right set of factors shakes the sleepers out of hibernation.
(https://cmr.asm.org/content/33/3/e00139-19.full ) Although the preservative system may initially keep numbers low,
microorganisms may grow out and become identifiable resulting
Contamination caused by Gram-negative microorganisms, in- in a recall, or worse yet, an outbreak linked to your firm.
cluding BCC, may not be detected by routine preservative efficacy
studies. The newer preservative systems rely on multiple factors Challenge Testing
in order to accomplish their intended affect. As a result, there is
a higher likelihood that injured cells can go unnoticed when Traditional testing methods are likely to miss the presence of
standard testing protocols are followed. This is especially true in low levels of Gram negative bacteria, including B. cepacia. Incor-
cosmetics, which tend to have much more complex formulations porating methods capable of waking up weakened cells is recom-
than drug products. Even if your products pass preservative effi- mended. For cosmetics, FDA accomplishes this by incubating a 1
cacy studies they may fail standard FDA testing protocols leading in 10 suspension for 72 hours prior to plating. You will not find
to a recall of your products. If you have isolated B. cepacia from this method in any standard compendia. The 72 hour methodol-
your purified water or plant environment, there is an increased ogy is outlined in FDA’s Bacteria Analytical Manual, Chapter 23
probability it is also present in your products. If you have not (BAM 23). You will also find methods FDA follows for identifying
isolated the same microorganisms from your products, the test isolates, including biochemical and genetic methods. Firms that
methods you are using need to be qualified to assure the ability cold process should incorporate routine test method qualification
to detect BCC. using house organisms, including BCC. For preservative efficacy
testing we recommend a rechallenge of the same product, rather
BCC is a common contaminant in water purification systems. It than the single 28 day challenge used in most published methods.
survives by forming biofilms which allow it to remain unidenti-
fied in routine testing regimens. Water purification systems must Stability
be designed, installed and operated following proven industry
standards. The entire system installation must be validated to as- The importance of stability testing cannot be overstated. Prod-
sure performance is within design parameters. The weak point in
many installations is the distribution system employed to transfer ucts that are prone to microbiological growth should be moni-
purified water to process vessels. It is highly recommended to
provide assurance that purified water is free of bioburden when tored for the life of the product to assure that changes have not
it is added to the compounding vessel. Incorporating point of use
filtration will not guarantee purified water is free of BCC or other occurred that allow pathogens to emerge. The failure to include
potentially pathogenic organisms. The transfer mechanism, be it a
permanently installed circulating loop, a hose or a bucket, must stability testing of susceptible products adds to the likelihood that
be included in a validation protocol to preclude the items as a
source of BCC or other contaminating microorganisms. BCC could go unnoticed. Although current FDA regulations do

Conducting validated daily, weekly and longer-term cleaning not require “use by” dating or stability testing for cosmetics, it is
and sanitization regimens is imperative to avoid biofilm develop-
ment. The validation should reflect all possible operational pa- highly recommended to conduct accelerated stability testing be-
rameters that will be employed during all use scenarios. A meth-
od of monitoring process control failures that lead to biofilm for- fore putting a new formulation on the market.
mation must be incorporated, such as TOC or ATP swabbing. The
methods that are used must be proven suitable for their intended It is not an easy task to eliminate B. cepacea and other oppor-
purpose.
tunistic pathogens from your cold process products. If you have
Static decontamination devices such as UV are also prone to
malfunction and must be installed, operated and maintained fol- not addressed the suitability of your quality system in addressing
lowing rigorous validated procedures. Operating a decontamina-
tion device to the point of failure is not an acceptable means of routes of contamination that exist in your manufacturing facilities
controlling contamination of your most valuable ingredient. De-
signing and implementing planned maintenance schemes based you should not wait until a recall occurs or your products are re-
on validated operational parameters is important. Operating at or
near designed limits is asking for trouble. It is also important to fused at the border. n
routinely check calibration of measuring devices the same as you
would do for laboratory equipment. John Misock is a Senior Consultant with
Ceutical Labs, Inc. Flower Mound, TX. Previously
Cold process products are at the highest risk of becoming con- John worked in FDA’s Office of Cosmetics and
Colors and with Estee Lauder Companies. He also
served as Deputy Commissioner of the Wyoming
Department of Agriculture. John is a recognized
expert in microbiology and GMP in personal care
products.

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Formulating

Regional Skin Care Considerations
for Ethnic Skin

By Aina Radiance Davies and Samiul Amin

Editor’s Note:
This article is a well thought out overview of the issues experienced by dark-skinned people who live in ultra-high temperature, and
sometimes polluted, environments. Beyond the known impact on people with less melanin in their skin, having dark colored skin in such
environments brings a host of new issues that formulators and marketers need to pay attention to as we move forward in the expanded
global market for cosmetics.

Introduction Climate as a determinant for use and
application of skin cosmetic products:
As being reported by various studies, considerable climate
change is occurring across the world and consequently, it has Weather conditions have a direct impact on product stability
become imperative for various cosmetic product and service-pro- and subsequent product performance. Regional skincare needs
viding industries to adapt their consumer offerings to be consist- refer to how the weather/climate conditions experienced by indi-
ent with the consumers environmental reality. viduals with skin of color determine their choice of skin cosmetic
products and their frequency of use. About 30 per cent of the
Having established that individuals with skin of color have world’s population have dark skin color and 1.1 billion of this
proven morphological and physiological features as regards skin percentage reside in Africa. The climate in sub-Saharan Africa
that differ from other races 1, this implies that dry and hot climate (SSA) is characterised primarily of dry, humid climate conditions.
conditions caused by sudden climate change will have a direct These weather/climate conditions pose a foreseeable challenge
negative impact on how skin challenges manifest in such people. for consumers who make use of skin cosmetic products such as
These skin challenges include, but are not limited to acne vul- skincare and makeup on a daily basis.
garis, lack of hydration, hyperpigmentation including post-inflam-
matory hyperpigmentation (PIH), photo-aging, ingrown hair, etc. Formulating cosmetics for consumers situated in close proxim-
ity to the equator must be intentionally redesigned, reformulated
Geographical areas focused on in this article are primarily and certainly remarketed to this large section of the population in
sub-Saharan Africa and other global areas where exacerbation of these and other similar global areas. To encourage the continuous
external stimuli occur. These include air pollution, extremely purchase and use of skin cosmetic products in these regions, per-
higher temperatures, and increased ultraviolet radiation. We fore- formance and efficacy of products alone is not sufficient for the
see and predict that all of these changes will impact the perfor- consumers. It is an important need of the impacted consumers
mance of cosmetic products as well as its desirability by consum- that makeup products (e.g. colour cosmetics) are able to with-
ers situated in these regions.

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TECHNOLOGY R&D

Formulating

stand these hot and humid conditions for long hours. Consumers
therefore require low density, lightweight products that offer
long-lasting wear and hold. Skincare formulations must possess
positive sensorial benefits that take into consideration the preva-
lent weather conditions in SSA type climes.

Effect of Climate on Product Stability and Performance: products should be formulated with multiple moisturizing agents
Skin cosmetic products are usually formulated to withstand cer- that are able to offer ample moisturization to the areas applied for
longer periods of time. This is because the weather conditions are
tain temperature ranges and tend to become unstable under tem- likely to cause either excessive evaporation of the product or
peratures above the current standards of stability range which if even crystallization of some ingredients while in storage. Also,
exceeded, lead to phase separation. An example of a direct effect inputting positive sensorial benefits to the formula cannot be
of climate change is exposure to extremely high temperature con- overstated.
ditions. In SSA, daily temperature can get up to 40 degrees Cel-
sius at peak periods of the day and only get as low as 23 degrees
Celsius at cooler times of the day 2. These conditions cause make-
up products to phase separate during storage and/or shortly after
being applied.

Phase separation occurring in skin cosmetic products affects
and alters the product’s overall performance. The integrity of
most makeup products such as foundations, concealers, primers,
powders, etc. are severely impacted by extreme temperature con-
ditions. Due to changes in the product microstructure, as a result
of exposure to such extreme temperatures, formulation instability
occurs. This leads to skin cosmetic products having shorter shelf-
lives even when they are stored according to the directions pro-
vided by its manufacturers. Now, while it is possible for consum-
ers to store their cosmetic products as instructed by the manufac-
turers and within specified temperature conditions, it is more
important for cosmetic product manufacturers to develop and
consider more robust stability testing methods that accommodate
the temperature conditions experienced by certain consumers.
After these tests are conducted, shelf-life of these products should
also be adequately labelled according to the obtained results to
guide consumers on use of products.

Choice of ingredients used in certain Acne:
target-action products based on regional According to one study 3, 17% of interviewed participants con-
skincare needs:
sider hot weather as a factor that aggravates acne. This can be
Hydration: linked to the direct effect(s) of hot weather such as sweating and
As a result of low ceramide levels in the dark skin of individu- excess sebum production on oily and/or acne-prone skin. This
coupled with air pollution blocks the hair follicles and creates a
als, skin is visibly drier and has a great tendency towards acne as sebum rich and oxygen poor environment on the skin that leads
a result of dehydration. In recent time, with the spread of the to the proliferation of acne.
COVID-19 virus and the safety need to put on protective face
masks at all times, there has been a proliferation of acne around Added impact of air pollution on acne:
the areas of the face covered by the mask. This condition is re- While various anti-acne cosmetic products are available for use,
ferred to as ‘maskne’ and might be as result of increased heat and anti-acne products for people with skin of color should be formu-
humidity around those areas which is also exacerbated by high lated with film-forming agents that adequately protect the skin
temperature conditions. These tendencies are escalated in areas area from the dirt filled atmosphere as a result of the prevalent air
that experience extreme climate conditions such as extremely pollution. It is important that these products are formulated with
high/low temperatures. While the high temperatures of the sub- anti-acne ingredients that have been identified as safe for indi-
ject regions are well known, the low temperatures also present viduals with skin of color. Film forming agents in anti-acne prod-
can induce dehydration and dryness of the skin. Effective mois- ucts not only protect the consumer from air pollution, they also
turization ingredients are well known amongst cosmetic product prolong the efficacy of the product by shielding the applied prod-
formulators and in what percentages they must be used. Howev- uct from produced sweat caused by heat. Excessive sweat (espe-
er, for the consumers focused on in this article, skin moisturizing cially on the face) is able to ‘dilute’ the formulation and as
consumers wipe off sweat from face, they inevitably also
wipe off the cosmetic product.

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TECHNOLOGY R&D

Formulating

the skin and hyperpigmentation but can also lead to irritation and
inflammation of the skin. Sunscreen product formats other than
creams (i.e. sunsprays, pressed powders, etc.) have to be re-for-
mulated to be broad spectrum (i.e. offer protection against both
UVA and UVB rays). We also note the recent work published in
Euro Cosmetics by Olga Dueva Kogonov, Ph.D., where modifica-
tion of fabrics has been successful in enhancing resistance to so-
lar radiation exposure 4.

Conclusion

In summary, sensorial and stability attributes play a huge role
in ensuring consumer acceptability of products where regional
needs are a factor that must be considered. It is particularly im-
portant to always consider the sensory and performance in diffi-
cult environmental conditions benefits of all products as well as
how the product format increases the desirability of the product.
High performance of skin cosmetic products is very important
and sought after by majority of consumers but the continuous us-
age of these products to achieve results greatly hinges on the
consumers comfort/discomfort when using them. While a con-
sumer may understand the benefits of continuous usage of target-
action skin cosmetic products, cosmetic products now, more than
ever, need to address the environmental needs and reality of its
users.

Effect of climate conditions EfenedjoyyoEumCr atoob7r/ooelu8wtf-r2titho0hism2m0sou,trbhpejaieisgnctfeao2urm4tahtoiorn
on some consumer lifestyle choices:
References
Due to the prevalent weather/climate conditions such as in-
creased exposure to ultra-violet (UV) radiation and extreme tem- 1. Taylor, S. C., Cook-Bolden, F., Rahman, Z., & Strachan, D. (2002). Acne vul-
peratures in SSA, as well as other similar global areas, consumers garis in skin of color. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology,
tend to wear less covering clothing items. This allows for expo- 46(2), S98-S106.
sure of various parts of the body (skin) to UV radiation. This, in
turn leads to the development and proliferation of hyperpigmen- 2. Azzarri, C., & Signorelli, S. (2020). Climate and poverty in Africa South of
tation in consumers with skin of colour. How does this relate to the Sahara. World development, 125, 104691.
formulation design of skin cosmetic products you may ask?
3. Yorulmaz, A., & Yalcin, B. (2020). Myths, Perceptions and Practices in Acne:
In order to be adequately protected from UV radiation, con- A Study on Adolescents and Young Adults. Current Health Sciences Journal,
sumers are advised to wear broad spectrum sunscreen products 46(2), 111. Chicago.
all over exposed areas of the body. As such, consumers will desire
high-performing sunscreen products with positive sensorial at- 4. A conversation with Dr. Olga Dueva-Koganov, Research Director BioMateri-
tributes. Sunscreens are notorious for their very many unpleasant
sensorial attributes such as being tacky and sticky, some sun- als, Ashland Inc. on Emerging Category of Sun Protection Fabrics. Eurocos-
screen products containing UV ray(s) reflecting pigments leave a
white cast after application and are too occlusive for hot weather metics 2016. n
conditions.
Aina Davies has Samiul Amin is As-
To encourage consumer application, the products with the at- a degree in sociate Professor of
tributes mentioned above have to be personalised to suit the de- chemical engi- Chemical Engineer-
mands of these consumers. Organic UV filters are more preferred neering and a ing at Manhattan
in such cases as they do not leave a white cast after application. master’s degree College, where he
Also, these products have to be formulated to be less occlusive in Chemical leads the Cosmetic
and more hydrating and rejuvenating to consumers in these areas. Engineering with a focus in Engineering concentration area. Prior
The climate conditions in these areas such as excessive heat and Cosmetics Engineering from to joining academia in 2018, he has
most times, severe aridity not only contribute to dehydration of Manhattan College. Her research worked in industry for the past 20
interests include automated years working across Engineering,
formulation design for hair care R&D and Innovation Management in
and skin care cosmetic products. multinationals such as ExxonMobil,
Unilever, L’Oreal and Malvern Instru-
ments in Asia, Europe and the US.

1/2-2021 22 EURO COSMETICS



TECHNOLOGY R&D

LactoSporin®

A Dream Solution for Acne free Smooth Skin

By Dr. Muhammed Majeed, Dr. Lakshmi Mundkur and Shaheen Majeed *

Pathology of Acne Figure 1: Types of Acne

Acne is the most common exasperating skin condition in teen- Assessment of acne lesions
agers and young adults, causing emotional distress. It is charac-
terized by excessive sebum production, inflammation, keratiniza- The inflammation was recorded using the instrument “Antera”
tion of follicles, and overgrowth of the bacteria Cutibacterium by the dermatologist. Both LactoSporin and benzoyl peroxide
acnes.1 Despite being one of the most widespread skin problems, showed a reduction in inflammation as early as three days after
and a hot research topic, the development of new therapeutic
agents is still sluggish. Conventional agents like antibiotics, ben-
zoyl peroxide, and retinol can cause antibiotic resistance, skin
barrier disruption, leading to dryness and irritation. New treat-
ment options targeting multiple pathologies by calming inflam-
mation, maintaining skin moisture and barrier function along
with preserving the skin microbiome with minimal side effects
are essential for treating acne 2.

Natural products have been the focus of skincare due to their
efficacy and safety profile. Lately, the gut microbiome has been
shown to have a crucial role in preserving the skin condition 3. As
dietary supplements, probiotics provide health benefits by fight-
ing pathogens, maintaining gut homeostasis and skin micro-
biome 4. The topical application of probiotic components has
shown beneficial effects by modifying skin barrier function, in-
creasing the skin’s antimicrobial properties, and protecting
against acne and erythema 5–8. However, the application of live
bacteria on skin poses several challenges 9. Extracellular metabo-
lites from probiotics, also termed as “Postbiotic,” can influence the
microbiome composition 10 – 12. They have a long shelf life, safety,
and possess multiple health benefits. Few studies using probiotic
metabolites have shown a positive effect on the skin, although
cosmetic use of postbiotics is still in its infancy 5.

Clinical study Figure 2: Antera analysis was conducted on day 0 to day 21. A: Redness (Hb-
index- % hemoglobin hyper-concentration) in inflammatory response
LactoSporin® is an extracellular metabolite purified from Bacil- B: Elevation (Small) in the inflammatory response, C: Analysis of sebum
lus coagulans MTCC 5856 fermented broth with an INCI name secretion (µg/cm2) by Sebumeter
Bacillus ferment filtrate extract. LactoSporin® acts as an anti-
microbial agent by lowering the pH, inhibiting microbial biofilms,
and draining the ions from the targeted cells 13, 14. In a rand-
omized clinical trial, 64 male and female subjects with mild to
moderate acne were treated with a 2% LactoSporin cream for 21
days in comparison with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide. The efficacy pa-
rameters were evaluated based on the dermatologist visual as-
sessment, instrumental measurement and subject self-assessment
questionnaires. Adverse events were recorded throughout the
study period.

* President Worldwide of Sabinsa

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TECHNOLOGY R&D

application. The small and medium elevation reduced significant- Figure 3: Dermatological Assess-
ly (p<0.001) by 61.11% and 60.93% in the LactoSporin group and ment: A: Count of open comedones,
58.14% and 54% in the benzoyl peroxide group (Figure 2A and B: Count of closed comedones,
B). Application of 2% LactoSporin cream resulted in a significant C: Count of Papules, D: Count of
reduction in sebum secretion at all time points with a 42.4% re- Pustules
duction at the end of the study (Figure 2C). The results were
comparable to the standard treatment of benzoyl peroxide (43.4% extracellular metabolite from B coagulans MTCC 5856 could be a
reduction). dream solution for acne-free smooth skin.

Dermatological Assessment References

The dermatological assessment was performed by counting the 1 Zouboulis, C.C., et al., What is the pathogenesis of acne? Exp Dermatol,
inflammatory (papules and pustules) and non-inflammatory 2005. 14(2): p. 143-52.
(open and closed comedones) lesions. The mean number of open
comedones reduced from 1.03 ± 1.82 to 0.38 ± 0.75 with 63.11% 2 Yang, J.H., et al., Seeking new acne treatment from natural products, de-
reduction for LactoSporin and 1.00 ± 1.74 to 0.50 ± 1.16 with vices and synthetic drug discovery. Dermato-Endocrinology, 2017. 9(1):
50.0% reduction for benzoyl peroxide group Similarly, the closed p. e1356520.
comedones reduced by 50.02% in the LactoSporin and 49.50% for
the benzoyl peroxide group (Figure 3A – D). 3 Baquerizo Nole, K.L., E. Yim, and J.E. Keri, Probiotics and prebiotics in der-
matology. J Am Acad Dermatol, 2014. 71(4): p. 814-21.
The application of both LactoSporin and benzoyl peroxide
showed a statistically significant reduction in oil and grease from 4 Kober, M.M. and W.P. Bowe, The effect of probiotics on immune regulation,
the face compared with their respective baseline from Day 3 on- acne, and photoaging. Int J Womens Dermatol, 2015. 1(2): p. 85-89.
wards. LactoSporin was better than benzoyl peroxide in improv-
ing oily and greasy skin look throughout the study period. 5 Lew, L.C. and M.T. Liong, Bioactives from probiotics for dermal health: func-
tions and benefits. J Appl Microbiol, 2013. 114(5): p. 1241-53.
LactoSporin was found to be safe as no adverse effects or local
intolerance were observed during the study. None of the subjects 6 Di Marzio, L., et al., Increase of skin-ceramide levels in aged subjects fol-
reported skin irritation as assessed by the subject self-assessment lowing a short-term topical application of bacterial sphingomyelinase from
questionnaire. Streptococcus thermophilus. Int J Immunopathol Pharmacol, 2008. 21(1):
p. 137-43.
Conclusion
7 Kang, B.S., et al., Antimicrobial activity of enterocins from Enterococcus
LactoSporin showed better efficacy than benzoyl peroxide for faecalis SL-5 against Propionibacterium acnes, the causative agent in acne
reducing the sebaceous secretion and oily greasy nature of the vulgaris, and its therapeutic effect. J Microbiol, 2009. 47(1): p. 101-9.
skin, suggesting that the ingredient is effective in seborrheic
conditions. In all other parameters studied, LactoSporin was 8 Muizzuddin, N., et al., Physiological effect of a probiotic on skin. J Cosmet
equivalent to the standard treatment of benzoyl peroxide in the Sci, 2012. 63(6): p. 385-95.
management of mild to moderate acne lesions. Further, we have
recently reported the efficacy of LactoSporin as a skin-protecting 9 Naik, S., et al., Compartmentalized control of skin immunity by resident
agent base on in vitro studies 15. These results suggest that this commensals. Science, 2012. 337(6098): p. 1115-1119.

10 Aguilar-Toalá, J., et al., Postbiotics: An evolving term within the functional
foods field. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 2018. 75: p. 105-114.

11 Wegh, C.A., et al., Postbiotics and Their Potential Applications in Early Life
Nutrition and Beyond. International journal of molecular sciences, 2019.
20(19): p. 4673.

12 Patel, R.M. and P.W. Denning, Therapeutic use of prebiotics, probiotics, and
postbiotics to prevent necrotizing enterocolitis: what is the current evidence?
Clinics in perinatology, 2013. 40(1): p. 11-25.

13 da Cunha, N.B., et al., The next generation of antimicrobial peptides (AMPs)
as molecular therapeutic tools for the treatment of diseases with social and
economic impacts. Drug discovery today, 2017. 22(2): p. 234-248.

14 Majeed, M., et al., Method of producing partially purified extracellular me-
tabolite products from Bacillus coagulans and biological applications there-
of. 2017, Google Patents.

15 Majeed, M., et al., Skin Protective Activity of LactoSporin-the Extracellular

Metabolite from Bacillus Coagulans MTCC 5856. Cosmetics, 2020. 7(4):

p. 76. n

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GUEST POST

Technical Marketing

Evolution, Responsibilities and Employment Opportunities

By Jamileh Lakkis, Ph.D.

Editor’s Note:
As we well know this is an era of job loss. There is also a concomitant search for new modalities of creating technical products. Such
products must not only be useful to consumers, but their performance promises must reach out to consumers emotionally in order for
their brands to successfully emerge into the light of their Awareness-Day.
In this context, a new job category is emerging. What has long been two types of expertise but separated by a deep chasm of separation
are the “technical-thinking” people and their typical adversaries, the “marketing-thinking” people.
This fascinating tutorial demonstrates leadership in pointing to the consolidation of the two types of thinking people merging together
into the newly coined “Technical Marketers”.
Here lies the newly opened path for jobs to enable cosmetic companies, especially the plethora of start-ups, to be successful.
Enjoy the road as you travel, and quite apart from this article but consistent with the Hard-Hat thinking and Soft-Hat thinking hats
described in this article, I encourage you to read one of my favorite books of long ago “ Six Thinking Hats” by Edward de Bono.

What is Technical Marketing? How did technical marketing evolve?

Technical marketing is a technology-driven process that aims at Traditionally, marketing professionals were generalists who
understanding the mind of the consumer and accurately translat- were involved in developing a product and getting it to the mar-
ing it into new products or services. To many, technical marketing ket. In doing so, they had to rely on the organization’s technical
is the new buzzword for industries that deal with complex and specialists who understood the product specifications inside out
highly technical products. By combining knowledge of key prod- but never had exposure to customers and end-users. With in-
uct specifications and features as well as appealing to consumers creased products complexity, competition, and consumers access
with technical appreciation of the product, technical marketing to research via the internet, this practice just doesn't cut it any-
has become a necessary component of any successful marketing more. Rather, a real need for more interface with business during
strategy. product development has emerged.

Because technical marketing focuses on explaining how com- Scientists and engineers are typically hired for their technical
plex products work, it is commonly confused with product mar- knowledge; however, they are for the most part not the best com-
keting. However, technical marketing is much broader, It involves municators. Generalist marketers, on the other hand, often do not
identifying the need to develop new products while creating tar- have a broad understanding of the product and lack the depth of
get specifications in close collaboration with product marketing. knowledge of a specialized technical professional. Combining
both worlds can fill these gaps and that is where the magic be-
Technical marketers are tasked with speaking to knowledgea- gins.
ble buyers through:
• Developing technical marketing materials
• Providing Sales teams and clients with technical product

support
• Participating in product demonstrations

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GUEST POST

What industries benefit most Hard Skills
from technical marketing
Typically, Hard-Skills require some effort to acquire since they
Any company that has a technically complex product, or whose usually involve technical knowledge or industry expertise. These
customers tend to be technically savvy, can benefit from technical attributes allow the technical marketer to evaluate the product,
marketing. Examples of such industries include: edit marketing materials or other activities. Technical marketers’
Cosmetics, Biologicals, Nutraceuticals Hard-Skills include, but are not limited to:technical training, opti-
• Physical measurement and product testing mization of content for search engines using keywords, writing
• Life science, and pharmaceutical services and initiating communications, research and data analysis, busi-
• Scientific or analytical instrumentation ness knowledge, presentations and public speaking etc.
• Computer software, imaging equipment, etc.
• Pharma 1) Optimizing Content: A well thought out content creates a
• Medical equipment marketing ecosystem that educates and persuades readers using a
• Laboratory equipment and materials variety of content-based assets like white papers, search engine
• Scientific publications optimized (SEO) articles, web copy, e-mail newsletters, etc. It is
• Chemical abstract service estimated that 93% of B2B marketers use content marketing, but
only 42% say they are effective with their content efforts (B2B
“Start Ups” may find technical marketers especially useful Marketing Institute 2017). For a successful outcome, it is impera-
due to budget constraints and difficulty in justifying hiring tive that Content-Marketing should:
both marketing managers and technical specialists. However, • Demonstrate three main attributes: expertise, authority and
money aside, the emerging specialty category of Technical
Marketers is the future of the successful growth of all techni- trust (referred to as EATing).
cally complex products. • Talk TO customers but never AT them.
• Focus on improving sales by acquiring more quality leads.
Skills and responsibilities • Gain authority in the market to increase visibility and beat
of Technical Marketers
competition.
The key responsibilities of a technical marketer must make sure • Improve social media following, engagement, views or shares.
the products developed by the company work effectively with the • Promote more traffic to specific product pages, increase news-
customer’s applications. To do so, the technical marketer needs to
understand the applications and customer systems first and trans- letter subscribers, and white paper downloads, etc.
late the requirements into product specifications. After produc- • Reduce cost of sales and marketing by increasing content
tion, the technical marketer should validate the product in the
customer’s application and serve as the contact for any questions quality.
that may arise afterwards. Documentation is also part of the job • Produce content with proper SEO to enhance Google search
and ranges from data sheets to publication in professional jour-
nals and many activities in between. results ranking.

Technical Marketers must possess highly specialized knowl- Being the fuel that powers any marketing plan, content should
edge about the product offering that goes well beyond articulat- be handled by an excellent writer with an adaptable voice and
ing its individual value to a prospect. They must be able to discuss absolute mastery over elements of style, diction, syntax, voice and
the offering at length in relation to the market’s broader land- idiomatic expression. Successful content creation should identify
scape, history and future. Further, they must be able to base upfront:
knowledge of the product’s usefulness to a prospect application • Who is the writing for (a pharmaceutical content must
that is most relevant to the niche audience.
differentiate between content for patients or doctors)?
Succeeding in technical marketing requires a wide array of • What is the objective of the written piece (introducing a new
competencies which can be divided into hard and soft skills.
While “Hard-Skills” such as understanding product technical product, trying to beat competition, etc.)?
specifications, data collection and interpretation are essential for • Where will it be published (traditional paper newspaper,
completing complex tasks, Soft-skills like communication and
empathy can aid in managing and leading teams. Only through e-mail, social media, etc.)?
strategic shifting between these skills, the technical marketer can • What is the action you want people to take after reading it
effectively help customers envision the benefits of their purchase.
• Hard skills (include specialized technical knowledge about the (feedback on a new product, uncover new potential
applications, etc.)?
product and techniques needed to convince the consumer of
its benefits). Although content writing is all about readers’ attention-grab-
• Soft skills (include general qualities that enable one to do the bing, it should but never be a click-bait. It should be balanced so
job and work well with others). that it is convincing, but not sales-y and easygoing but also pro-
found. It should be infused with genuine psychological drivers, so
that it touches the client on an emotional level. Anyone can write
texts, but there is a difference between normal texts and catchy
texts.

In creating content, one should find the way to connect custom-
ers’ lives to the product. Play up the frustrations they are experi-

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GUEST POST

WHAT ARE THE MOST EFFECTIVE SOCIAL Article length has been extended to a long-form of 1500 to 2500
CHANNELS FOR YOUR BRAND? (CHOOSE TOP 3) words to help provide answers to most queries instead of the
typical short 500-words content articles.
74 % Linkedin
51 % 2) Social Media savviness: Social media are evolving faster than
35 % Facebook brands themselves and a good technical marketer needs to lever-
29 % Twitter age such platforms to remain relevant in today’s marketplace.
24 % Instagram LinkedIn is considered the most effective social channel for B2B
YouTube (Figure 1). However, with 73% U.S. adults on Facebook and 69%
3% Pinterest on YouTube, these two platforms are deemed the most effective
6% Other in B2C interactions according to a 2019 survey (Chief Marketer
2019).
Figure 1. Most effective B2B social channels
(source: Chief Marketer 2019, Marketing Outlook report). 3) Database querying: Essential for understanding how custom-
ers and prospects are behaving. It allows marketers to make data-
encing and tell them the story of how your product is going to driven decisions and gain key insights that lead to more efficient
make it all better. Keeping in mind that people do not buy logic; and effective marketing (Peterson, 2019).
they buy emotions. Therefore, creating content should appeal to
the emotional side of the reader. For example, a sanitizing prod- 4) Research and analysis: In addition to product knowledge,
uct may kill 99.5% of bacteria but what sells it is the fact that they technical marketers need a strong research ability to develop and
will be able to keep their family healthy and safe from germs or deploy research initiatives. They must also be able to examine
serious illnesses (Green, 2020). Currently, vitamin suppliers are data and draw analytical conclusions from it. Market research can
offering marketing materials about the benefits of consuming vi- be original and developed by the technical marketers themselves
tamins, mainly for boosting immunity. The implication in the con- based on their research competency or can be produced by an
sumers mind is that these vitamins may help the body fend off external research firm.
Covid-19.
Soft Skills
Writing should always be done with SEO in mind so that the
content is optimized effortlessly for search ranking. SEO is a long- Soft skills are defined as a unique mix of communication, team-
term tactic to boost visibility of the company site and can gener- work and empathy, often with leadership, accountability, integrity
ate more leads in organic search results. If done right, it can de- and similar traits. These skills are essential competencies inherent
liver results affordably and consistently. Organic search results in marketers that help with understanding consumers and gaining
have the potential to be much more powerful than paid ads, es- emotional intelligence.
pecially if they make it to the first page. This is crucial for improv-
ing brand’s recognition and for generating leads. Although soft skills may be described as individual’s natural
propensity, they can be acquired by proper training. One example
The writing should avoid the spammy way of sending pages of a soft skill is the ability to peacefully manage conflicts. The fol-
or sites to the top of Google SERP (search engine results pages). lowing are broader theoretical and executive soft competencies
This technique might get only short-term results and readers will needed to achieve success in a technical marketing role.
figure it out fairly quickly. Google has been actively penalizing i) Adaptability: Growing businesses and changing customer
sites severely if found to practice this practice commonly referred needs require some flexibility from those who choose to navigate
to as black hat SEO. Instead, the content should target the long- it and adapt to new needs, challenges, and opportunities each
term impact by delivering relevant content to the right audience day.
at the right time, i.e. white hat SEO. ii) Problem-solving: Technical marketers seek to solve problems
in their own environment and to use specialized knowledge to
Choosing the right keywords: it is estimated that 90 % of SEO help their audiences better solve their own using the product or
involves keyword selection and research. A content writer should service that the technical marketers represent.
always keep in mind customers search intent including what po- iii) Customer empathy: in addition to mastering the product,
tential product users are searching for (health ingredients, medi- understanding the buyer’s emotional connection to it is crucial.
cations, antiaging products, or just some advice). Also using direct Consumers are more likely to buy a product or service when they
answers and questions (Google gives results to queries delivered like the person providing it.
as direct questions). In writing content for a cosmetic product, iv) Motivation: Marketing professionals must be energetic and
selected keywords such as ‘best active for antiaging’ or ‘recom- able to function with minimal supervision. They can use their
mended for antiaging’ should be inserted. Optimization should be leadership and organizational skills to push their team members
continued until Google or other search engines rank this content to realize their potential and to help the team achieve its goals.
on page one for the keywords that were identified for your prod- v) Project management skills – include leading and directing
uct. internal and external teams to manage projects and deliverables.

Other useful content attributes include careful choice of head-
lines to make them captivating and interesting to the audience.

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GUEST POST

Organizational skills help a technical marketing manager to cre- anyone who is: motivated, can communicate well, and knows
ate and enforce achievable deadlines, adhere to complicated how to get along (Larkin, 2002). Although this career offers job
schedules and keep track of important information. diversity and potential for excellent income, it entails almost con-
vi) Communication skills, Marketing professionals are paid to stant travel and competition. A career in technical marketing can
communicate the virtues of their products or services. This is offer diverse experience in every phase of a company’s operation,
done through creating documents for readers outside the organi- from the design of a product to its sales and service. Such broad
zation such as advertising copy, product descriptions, sales pro- exposure provides excellent preparation for countless upper-
posals, user manuals and online help. In addition, skilled techni- management positions. Several avenues for career advancement
cal marketing professionals need to speak confidently and per- can be expected for a technical marketer. It can include moving
suasively to represent their products and services in the best pos- into a sales or marketing management position to oversee multi-
sible light. Public speaking may be at conventions, trade shows, ple technical salespeople or into marketing or product manage-
and other similar forums. ment responsible for product lines. Opportunities also exist to
represent medical products, scientific journals, and many other
Deliverables for a technical marketer offerings.

The deliverables for a technical marketer hinge on the overall Many technical marketers started their own careers as develop-
marketing strategy and should align with the Sales and Product ers and slowly became more focused on marketing as the years
Marketing deliverables. Technical marketers must plan 12 to 18 progressed. Despite their unfair reputation as rigid individuals,
months ahead so that they have the flexibility to work with the developers, engineers are scientists can be remarkable marketers.
product and larger marketing organization to accomplish goals The one difference is that a lack of marketing skills is not likely
and tasks such as writing technical documentation. Without these to prevent scientists from being successful at their work. Market-
considerations, they are less likely to achieve the desired key per- ers, on the other hand, are going to have a much more difficult
formance indicators (KPIs) and may in fact prove a costly invest- time doing their work without some semblance of technical skills.
ment with unclear returns.
College graduates enter technical marketing through:
It’s vital that technical marketer’s responsibilities are clearly • Entry-level positions that offer hands on experience.
outlined early on and that their key performance indicators • Formal training programs in large organizations.
(KPTs) are well-defined to increase chances of success and dimin- • Prior experience in one’s specialty
ish the possibility of confusion due to vagueness. The following • Graduate programs and MBA.
are some KPIs for technical marketing benchmarks:
• Short-term deliverables: include items such as white papers, Conclusions

blogs and articles, presentations, video content, infographics It seems plausible to assume that technical marketers and gen-
and visual aids, etc eralist marketers perform the same function. Both have the re-
• Long-term deliverables: include market research, catalogs sponsibility to positively impact a brand’s market share and con-
and user manuals, key-phrase mentions, courses and e-books, tribute to the expansion of an organization’s bottom line through
in-person meetings, updated product demos, number of new a number of research and outreach activities. However, there is a
leads via technical marketing collateral, content return on point at which their roles diverge – and that point is defined
investment (c-ROI), etc. largely by the audience and the kind of information needed to
compel them. Whereas the marketing generalist might focus on
Career Path and employment outlook broad outreach activities meant to entice prospects, the technical
marketer’s audience is extremely passionate and knowledgeable
Employment outlook for graduates with the right combination about the product or service field they’re interested in.
of technical and personal qualifications in technical marketing
appears excellent. While engineering jobs will increase at barely A career in technical marketing lets a person combine science
one half the average growth rate for jobs requiring a bachelor’s and engineering knowledge with people skills and business ex-
degree, marketing jobs will exceed the average growth rate. pertise via working closely with engineering, product, business
development, sales team, and partners.
Companies are actively filling technical marketing jobs in a rap-
idly shifting economy where job security is disappearing in the The ever-persisting question, can a marketer be technical? The
face of more and more temporary positions (Employment listings answer is definitely YES. Scientists and engineers can make fan-
for recent graduates show countless major companies offering tastic marketers. The following professional organizations can be
positions in technical marketing and sales. Technical marketers consulted for further information on a career on technical market-
make an average of $77,707 a year! Between 2018 and 2028, the ing:
career is expected to grow 20% and produce 139,200 job oppor- • ACS Division of Small Chemical Business.
tunities across the U.S. (College Placement Council, 2001, p. 417). • ACS Division of Business Management and Development.
• Manufacturers’ Agents National association (www.manaonline.
A study entitled ‘feasibility analysis of a career in technical mar-
keting’ concluded that technical marketing is a feasible career for org).
• Manufacturers’ Representatives Educational Research

Foundation (www.mrerf.org).

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GUEST POST

Typical technical marketer • Accompanying marketing teams to marketing events,
job opening description product launches, and client locations.

Seeking an innovative technical marketing engineer to support • Delivering presentations and performing product
the company’s marketing initiatives. You will be contributing your demonstrations.
technical expertise to the development of our marketing materi-
als, assist with marketing campaigns and launches, and provide • Answering client queries and providing technical product
sales staff and clients with technical support. support.

Responsibilities: • Documenting processes and compiling user manuals for the
marketing team and clients.
To ensure success as a technical marketing engineer, you
should exhibit sound knowledge of marketing strategies and the • Contributing to marketing strategies by researching market
ability to apply your technical expertise to the development of trends and associated technologies.
marketing materials. A top-notch technical marketing engineer
will be someone whose technical expertise results in marketing References
success.
• B2B Content Marketing. 2017. https://contentmarketinginstitute.com/wp-
Specific responsibilities: content/uploads/2016/09/2017_ B2B_ Research_ FINAL.pdf.

• Collaborating with the marketing team on product • Green, I. 2020. The key role technical marketing can play in content strat-
development and campaign strategies. egy. https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/technical-marketing.

• Determining the technical scope of envisaged projects and • Chief Marketer 2019 B2B Marketing Outlook. https://www.chiefmarketer.
providing technical input. com/special-reports/2019-b2b-marketing-outlook-survey/

• Anticipating technical product needs and integrating desired • Peterson, A. 2019. Four technical skills marketers should learn. Enlightened
functionalities into the design. Digital. American BusinessWomen’s association, Feb 10 (Blog).

• Developing technical marketing materials and products, • Larkin, R.B. 2002. Feasibility analysis of a career in technical marketing. n
monitoring product performance, and resolving errors.
Jamileh M. Lakkis, Ph.D. is the lead technical marketing consultant at
• Training marketing teams on product specifications and Bellacap Co. which serves the Nutraceuticals and Cosmetics industries.
functionalities. Throughout her career, Dr. Lakkis assumed dual roles as a business
leader and a technical expert on encapsulation and controlled release
technologies in foods and cosmetics.

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EXPERT INSIGHTS

Focus Scent

Training

can help recover from

lost sense of smell

Introduction at the Center for Microbiome Research at the Medical University
of Graz are currently investigating whether specific daily smell
Research groups in Graz are exploring the effectiveness of dai- training can help patients suffering from olfactory disorders, in
ly training for people who have lost their sense of smell. The particular younger patients. In the project “The Nose-Brain Axis”,
training is linked to microorganisms in the nose and to brain they are also investigating the influence of microorganisms in the
networks that process the incoming signals. The first positive nasal cavity on the sense of smell. This includes the question of
news: the researchers were able to prove that olfactory training is how changes in the ability to smell are reflected in brain activity.
fundamentally successful.

Effects of Corona Microorganisms impact human hosts
in many different ways
The corona crisis has placed a focus on the human sense of
smell, because its loss can be one of the symptoms of the disease. “Millions of microorganisms dwell in and on our bodies: bacte-
Current studies suggest that in the course of the disease, damage ria, fungi, viruses and archaea. They colonise our external and
occurs to cells of what is called the olfactory epithelium – tissue internal surfaces, such as our skin and mucous membranes. The
in the upper part of the nasal cavity specialised in detecting microbiome influences our lives in many ways,” explains princi-
odours. When the tissue is restored after recovery, the sense of pal investigator Florian Fischmeister from the University of Graz,
smell is usually regained as well. In exceptional cases, however, who collaborates with microbiome researcher Christine Moissl-
people may lose the perception of smells for an extended period Eichinger from the Medical University of Graz. “One of the things
or receive misleading sensory signals – an apple smelling like we want to find out is whether and in what way the nasal micro-
burnt rubber, for instance. biome of a person suffering from anosmia – the inability to smell
– differs from that of a healthy person. In contrast to the microbi-
Even if someone is not infected by the SARS-CoV-2 virus, there ome in the stomach and intestinal tract, there is still very little
are many causes that can lead to the loss of the olfactory sense. research on the nasal microbiota, and we want to do some catch-
The range extends from infections in the nasal area to inflamma- ing up here,” Fischmeister adds.
twiown,wp.eoulyrposcaonsdmaeltleicrgsi-ems,atgoahzeiande.icnojumries and the decline of the
sense of smell as a symptom of age. Interdisciplinary research In a previous study, the researchers were able to show that
teams at the Institute of Psychology at the University of Graz and hyposmic patients, i.e. individuals whose sense of smell is intact
but performs less well than that of healthy people, presented a

1/2-2021 33 EURO COSMETICS

EXPERT INSIGHTS

Focus Scent

plete a six-month training programme which involved smelling
certain odours such as lemon or rose twice a day. They were also
asked to intensively visualise and simultaneously think about this
smell,” Fischmeister notes. At the start, at mid-point and at the end
of the study, the researchers checked the test persons’ ability to
smell and analysed their nasal and intestinal microbiome. In addi-
tion, they performed an MRI scan while the patients were being
exposed to smells in order to analyse the correlation between the
training and changes in the microbiome and developments in the
brain.

Data collection in the project has now been completed. 20 pa-
tients participated in the study and are being matched with a
control group. “At this point we can already confirm that the ol-
factory training worked in our study. In some of the patients, the
ability to smell improved significantly,” says the scientist. “The
MRI imaging also shows that the networks in the brain associated
with smelling are partially being restored.”

higher diversity of microorganisms on the olfactory epithelium. Evaluation of the data collected in the study has been delayed
The analysis revealed that their microbiome included a species owing to the corona crisis and is still ongoing. Should effects ac-
that produces butyric acid, which might have some bearing on tually become apparent, this would bring research one step closer
the poorer olfactory performance. Another investigation also sug- to a grand vision. “A long-term goal is to find key microorganisms
gests that olfactory training, involving regular and conscious ex- whose presence may positively influence nasal function or which
posure to certain odours, could be a helpful strategy. may at least work as biomarkers to suggest certain forms of ther-
apy,” says Fischmeister. “Right now, however, we are still a long
way from developing such a therapy.”

Smelling the roses every day Source: https://scilog.fwf.ac.at

Based on these insights, Fischmeister and his colleagues are Florian Ph. S. Fischmeister’s research focuses inter alia on the
now working on a long-term study that combines olfactory train- neuronal basis of chemosensory perception at the Institute of
ing and microbiome research. “We invited test persons to com- Psychology at University of Graz. He teaches at the University of
Klagenfurt and the Sigmund Freud Privatuniversität in Linz. n

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1/2-2021 34 EURO COSMETICS



Programmable aromas enable completely new
cosmetic and perfume products

By Heimo Adamski *

Introduction

Advertising has long been promising it: a deodorant that gives 24-hour protection and fragrance or detergent with a long-lasting
bouquet of fresh laundry. But despite all efforts, even the best deodorant is powerless after only a few hours. Even the highest quality
perfumes evaporate after a few hours. The Munich-based company 4GENE is now bringing a molecular revolution to the cosmetics and
perfume industry: using a biotechnical process, the molecules are repackaged and can be released in a programmed manner over any
period of time.

The secret of a long-lasting deodorant is a glycosylated mole- With the technology, a variety of aromas can be prepared in
cule. A special process is used to completely repackage the fra- such a way that molecular binding is possible. For the cosmetics
grance or active ingredient molecule. The effect of the release can industry, this means a revolution – instead of marketing promises
be controlled over time. The technological basis of 4GENE can of long-lasting fragrance, every skin cream can actually deliver on
make numerous small molecules of the most diverse nature – aro- that. The fragrances in bound form can be pre-produced and then
mas, fragrances, and active pharmaceutical ingredients – more mixed into the final product. They are storable and easily trans-
effective through glycosylation and release them in a controlled portable. These activatable aromas can also mean a breakthrough
manner. Your deodorant will thus be able to emit fresh fragrance in the food industry: in addition to semi-finished and ready meals,
molecules as your body temperature rises and perspiration in- professional products in the catering industry also benefit from
creases. There are also countless applications in the food and the technology, which enables the right aroma and flavor at the
pharmaceutical industry. desired time.

Trigger temperature and humidity Economic efficiency is guaranteed

The fragrance molecules of a perfume, cream, or lotion can be 4GENE calls its own technology “FLAVOR-ON-DEMAND”. All
bound in such a way that they are released again under certain technical challenges of manufacturing have been successfully
conditions – temperature or degree of humidity. Even mass pro- solved and optimized for an industrial process. Unlike free aro-
duction of fabrics that are easy to process is now possible at mas, the products optimized in this way are non-volatile, chemi-
competitive conditions. The background of the 4GENE company cally stable, and highly water-soluble. They can also be activated
is scientific: it was founded from the scientific community of the in a dedicated manner. The technology can also be used for both
Technical University of Munich. The start-up financing for the natural and synthetically produced aromas. The biotechnological
proof-of-concept was provided by the prestigious High-Tech process for the industrial production of aroma glucosides enables
Gründerfonds, VC Fonds BW, Mittelständische Beteiligungsge- economical use in a wide range of consumer products. It is al-
sellschaft Baden-Württemberg GmbH, and Goldmann Interna- ready being tested for mass use by the first cosmetics companies.
tional GmbH. The technology can be used to prepare various aromas in such a
way that molecular binding and thus programmed release is pos-
* Managing Director 4GENE GmbH, Germany sible.

1/2-2021 36 EURO COSMETICS

SPECIAL COVERAGE

Programmierbare Aromen ermöglichen völlig
neue Kosmetik- und Parfümprodukte

Von Heimo Adamski *

Einführung

Die Werbung vespricht es schon lange: Ein Deo, das 24 Stunden Schutz und Duft gibt oder Waschmittel mit lange anhaltendem Bukett
von frischer Wäsche – doch trotz aller Anstrengungen ist auch das beste Deo nach einigen Stunden machtlos. Auch die hochwertigsten
Parfüms verfliegen nach einigen Stunden. Das Münchener Unternehmen 4GENE bringt nun eine molekulare Revolution in die Kosme-
tik- und Parfümbranche: Mit einem biotechnischen Prozess werden die Moleküle neu verpackt und können so programmiert über einen
beliebigen Zeitraum freigesetzt werden.

Das Geheimnis eines lang anhaltenden Deodorants ist ein gly- nologie, die den richtigen Duft und Geschmack zur gewünschten
kosyliertes Molekül. Mit einem speziellen Prozess wird das Duft- Zeit ermöglicht.
oder auch Wirkstoffmolekül völlig neu verpackt, die Freisetzung
kann in ihrer Wirkung zeitlich kontrolliert ablaufen. Die techno- Wirtschaftlichkeit ist gewährleistet
logische Grundlage von 4GENE kann eine Vielzahl von kleinen
Molekülen unterschiedlichster Ausprägung – Aromen, Düfte und 4GENE nennt die eigene Technologie „FLAVOR-ON-DEMAND“,
pharmzeutische Wirkstoffe – durch Glykosylierung wirksamer
machen und kontrolliert freisetzen. Das Deodorant kann bei stei- sämtliche technischen Herausforderungen der Herstellung wur-
gender Körpertemperatur und Transpiration frische Duftmolekü-
le ausgeben. Hinzu kommen unzählige Anwendungen in der In- den erfolgreich gelöst und für einen Industrieprozess optimiert.
dustrie, der Lebensmittel- und auch Pharmaindustrie.
Anders als bei freien Aromen sind die so optimierten Produkte
Temperatur und Feuchte triggern
nicht flüchtig, chemisch stabiler, besser wasserlöslich und dedi-
Die Duftmoleküle eines Parfüms, einer Creme oder Lotion kön-
nen so gebunden werden, dass sie bei bestimmten Bedingungen ziert aktivierbar. Zudem kann die Technologie sowohl bei natürli-
– Temperatur oder Feuchtegrad – wieder freigesetzt werden.
Selbst eine Massenproduktion der leicht weiterzuverarbeitenden chen, aber auch synthetisch hergestellten Aromastoffen genutzt
Stoffe ist mittlerweile zu wettbewerbsfähigen Konditionen mög-
lich. Der Hintergrund des Unternehmens 4GENE ist wissenschaft- werden. Der biotechnische Prozess für die industrielle Herstel-
lich: Es wurde aus dem Wissenschaftsbetrieb der Technischen
Universität München gegründet, die Startfinanzierung zum Proof- lung der Aroma-Glukosiden ermöglicht einen wirtschaftlichen
of-Concept haben der angesehene High-Tech Gründerfonds, der
VC Fonds BW, die Mittelständische Beteiligungsgesellschaft Ba- Einsatz in vielfältigen Konsumartikeln und befindet sich bei ers-
den-Württemberg GmbH und die Goldmann International GmbH
übernommen. ten Kosmetikunternehmen bereits in der Erprobung für den Mas-

seneinsatz. Mit der Technologie können eine Vielzahl von Aroma-

stoffen so aufbereitet werden, dass eine molekulare Bindung und

damit eine programmierte Freisetzung möglich ist. n

Mit der Technologie kann eine Vielzahl an Aromen so aufberei-
tet werden, dass eine molekulare Bindung möglich ist. Für die
Kosmetikindustrie bedeutet das eine Revolution – statt Marketing-
versprechen von lang anhaltendem Duft kann jede Hautcreme
das nun auch einhalten. Die Duftstoffe in gebundener Form kön-
nen vorproduziert und dann in das endgültige Produkt gemischt
werden. Sie sind lagerfähig und problemlos transportabel. Auch
in der Lebensmittelindustrie können diese aktivierbaren Aromen
den Druchbruch bedeuten: Neben Halbfertig- und Fertiggerichten
profitieren auch Profi-Produkte der Gastroindustrie von der Tech-

* Managing Director 4GENE GmbH, Deutschland 4GENE Produktionsanlage in Stuttgart

1/2-2021 37 EURO COSMETICS

NEWS & TALK The cosmetics and personal care industry
is expected to grow to a trillion-dollar
N&T industry by 2030

We talked with
Ananth (K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan),
Professor and Director of Cosmetic Science
Program, UC (University of Cincinnati)
about the opportunities to advance career
with study Cosmetic Science with the Online
Program from the UC in Cosmetic Science

EURO COSMETICS: The University of Cincinnati is one of the
first institutions to offer online courses. The graduate-level MS in
Cosmetic Science program from the James L. Winkle College of
Pharmacy is the oldest and only asynchronous cosmetic science
program available.
Which degrees are awarded?
K.P. Ananth: We offer a graduate certificate (GC) and a MS degree
program in cosmetic science in our online programs. One can
participate in our program as a full time online student or as a
part-time online student. We are also piloting a new industrial PhD
program in cosmetic science in which the experimental part of the
PhD can be carried out in sponsoring industrial R & D organiza-
tion. These are, in addition, to our conventional onsite MS/PhD
programs.

Dr. K.P. Ananth (Ananthapadmanabhan) is a professor and EURO COSMETICS: What are the advantages of asynchronous
the director of the Cosmetic Science Programs at the James instruction?
L Winkle College of Pharmacy at the University of Cincinnati. K.P. Ananth: Our program is a global program in the sense that
Ananth obtained his B. Tech from Indian Institute of we have students from all over the world with students coming
Technology in Mumbai in 1974. He obtained his MS and D. from very different time zones. The asynchronous nature of our
Eng. Sci. degrees in 1976 and 1980 respectively from Columbia program makes it easier for everyone to participate in our program
University in New York, specializing in surfactants and on his or her schedule. Furthermore, this allows students to learn
colloids. Ananth spent 3 years as a post-doctoral fellow and at their own pace.
adjunct faculty at Columbia University and then joined Union Even though our program is asynchronous, we offer weekly spe-
Carbide Corporation, at their Surface Chemistry Skill Center cial discussion hours in our key courses for face-to-face contact
in Tarrytown, New York. In 1990, Ananth moved to Unilever R and interactions. We also adjust our timing for courses such as
& D, initially in Edgewater, NJ and then in Trumbull CT and journal club to accommodate live participation of students from
spent the next 26+ years in various capacities in the personal different time zones.
care area including leading their longer-term skin cleansing
research. He is an author/co-author in 125+ publications and EURO COSMETICS: For whom is the online program suitable?
35+ patents. Can you make recommendations here?

1/2-2021 38 EURO COSMETICS

NEWS & TALK

ties of a sponsoring organization. A mentor and two other commit-
tee members guide the students during the capstone process.

EURO COSMETICS: How long does it generally take to earn a de-
gree?
K.P. Ananth: Part time students can finish their GC in one year
and MS in about 2 1/2 to 3 years. Full time students can finish their

degree sooner. The advantage of the program is that the students

can learn at their pace and complete their degree.

EURO COSMETICS: How are students supported during instruc-
tion?
K.P. Ananth: There is no financial assistance for our program.
Fortunately, most of our students are supported by their employ-

ers. Those who are doing their MS degree from the US may be

eligible for federal educational loans.

K.P. Ananth: Our online program is suitable for those who are EURO COSMETICS: And how does communication with students
already working and want to move up in their organizations and work?
in their careers. It is also good for fresh graduates in chemistry, K.P. Ananth: All lectures are available online through our network
biology, chemical engineering etc. who want to continue their system. We use programs such as WebEx and Microsoft Teams for
education while looking for jobs. They can continue even after our regular meetings, weekly discussions and journal club. We use
they take up a job as this can be done either as a part-time or full emails and other web-based communication methods for individ-
time student. This is also ideal for those who want switch fields ual/group discussions. Our in-person online journal club has been
and enter the cosmetic and personal care area. Entrepreneur who very successful with students participating in active discussions.
would like to start their own business or have started their busi- We are continually exploring all the newer methods for improving
ness, but want to learn more about formulation science, cosmetic our communication with students.
regulations, safety and efficacy will also benefit immensely from
our program. EURO COSMETICS: What tools and assistance do you offer stu-
dents so they can gauge what they have learned?
EURO COSMETICS: What specialized knowledge do the students K.P. Ananth: We have regular exams and homework to ensure that
gain? the concepts taught in the class are fully grasped by the students.
K.P. Ananth: Students learn about all aspects of cosmetic and Several of our courses have special projects and in some cases,
personal care product science starting from consumer understand- group projects, so that they can interact and learn from each other.
ing to formulation science, skincare and haircare science, prod- Our journal club and capstone projects have been excellent train-
uct-substrate interactions, color cosmetics, fragrance science, ing grounds for critical analysis of literature and integration of the
safety, cosmetic regulations, microbiology, cosmetic pharmacology, information to arrive at conclusions and recommendations for fu-
biostatistics and clinical and instrumental methods. We also offer ture work in their areas of choice. In our cosmetic science lab,
a one week-intensive cosmetic science lab during summer months students work in groups and on the last day, they are asked to
where the students practice making emulsions, creams, lotions, create a product of their choice based on their lab learnings.
body wash, deodorants etc. Students also become familiar with We provide IT help for all our students so that they can access and
skin measurements such as transepidermal water loss, pH, elastic- manage IT issues during course of their study.
ity, hydration and color.
As part of their MS degree, students are expected to complete a EURO COSMETICS: How do you provide the students with orienta-
capstone project on a relevant topic by a critical review of the lit- tion so that they can learn by themselves?
erature, an assessment of the state of that art and making conclu- K.P. Ananth: UC online is our dedicated group of people involved
sions and recommendations on future directions. In selected cases, in the admissions process, onboarding registration and orientation
the MS thesis also involved experimental work at the R & D facili- for all new students. We have now started a meet and greet session
on WebEx for all our new recruits. We have an experienced faculty
who will work with the new students to develop a plan of study
that will guide the students with their entire plan for their certifi-
cate /degree.

EURO COSMETICS: What are the challenges facing the cosmetic
industry in the coming years? And how can universities help?
K.P. Ananth: The cosmetic industry is an ever-evolving field that is
becoming increasingly science driven in its product technology

1/2-2021 39 EURO COSMETICS

NEWS & TALK

and consumer communication. Consumer awareness of ingredi- changes in sunscreen regulations, organic sun-screen-free UV
ents and the science underpinning the technologies have increased protection type claims have begun to appear in the marketplace.
significantly over the past decade and the social media has played With changes in CBD oil regulation, there has been an explosion
a key role in this process. Consumer interest in naturals and sus- of activity in this area.
tainable ingredients has grown tremendously. The industry focus Rapid developments in areas such as genomics, skin microbiome
also has shifted more towards “care” rather than superficial cos- and in-vivo imaging measurements are giving rise to novel tech-
metics. With changes in global demographics, about a billion nologies and claims.
people are going to be over 65 years old soon and very little work All the above factors are indeed setting the technical direction for
has been done to understand their skincare and other personal the cosmetic industry. Such changes will lead to an increase in the
care requirements. Another area of increasing importance is the demand for well-trained scientists and engineers for the industry.
sensitive skin with more and more consumers claiming to have Next generation scientists and engineers will need more specific
sensitive skin while our understanding of the factors leading to training in cosmetic science than that from the traditional training
sensitive skin remains rather limited. in chemistry, chemical engineering and biology. Typically, a per-
Changes in regulations and consumer trends are also having an sonal care R & D operation may spend as much as a year in training
impact on the cosmetic industry. The micro-plastics ban in rinse new recruits. This is where universities can make a difference with
off products has led to several natural alternatives. Products claim- specialized training in cosmetic science.
ing free of ingredients X, Y and Z have increased with sulfate-free
and PABA-free as a couple of examples. With the anticipated EURO COSMETICS: Thank you for the conversation. n

1/2-2021 40 EURO COSMETICS

ONLINE PROGRAMS!

Graduate-level, online* programs in
COSMETIC SCIENCE:

MS IN PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES

WITH AN EMPHASIS IN COSMETIC SCIENCE

GRADUATE CERTIFICATE

IN COSMETIC SCIENCE

For professionals ready to make an
impact in one of the fastest-growing
and increasingly science-driven fields.

Delivered by world-renowned
faculty, completely online.

* one visit to Cincinnati required

pharmacy.uc.edu Contact K.P. Ananth, [email protected] or
Betsy Macke, [email protected]

NEW INGREDIENTS

Solvay launches Eugenol Synth Gattefossé is launching “Follow your bliss”, a collection of six new prototype formulas
for fragrance applications inspired by nature.

Solvay introduces Eugenol Synth, an innovation Gattefossé introduces six new nature-inspired formulas
for fragrance applications with olfactory properties
comparable to that derived from cloves. The new Two main trends
high purity synthetic eugenol will provide a reli- Composed of two themes, “Coming Into Bloom” and “Taking Root”, the
able alternative to help meet Flavors & Fragrance collection praises an idealized, awakened, and embellished nature.
(F&F) market demand for applications for which
natural origin is not essential. The first theme refers to a major shift in beauty, with cosmetics getting
“clean”, more thoughtful, and more sustainable thanks to a process carried
Solvay has developed a robust and competitive out through science.
process to produce synthetic eugenol to offset the
quality, supply and price fluctuations occurring in The second theme, “Taking Root”, builds upon consumers’ new priorities
the sourcing of natural eugenol extracted from in the wake of the pandemic. The formulas are simple and delicate …
cloves. perfectly optimized and universal.

Eugenol derived from cloves, is an aromatic flower Six new formulas
spice used widely across flavor (food and beverage) Gattefossé has developed 6 new formulas including:
and fragrance applications. Because of its analgesic
and antiseptic properties, it is also used in oral care • B anana Buttercream, a melting butter, slightly fragranced with banana
formulations such as toothpastes and mouth- scent, to nourish the driest skin.
washes. In addition, it can be used in technical
applications such as an intermediate for polymers. • Color Trans-foaming Mask, a face mask whose colour and texture
transforms upon contact with water.
Solvay’s new Eugenol Synth is produced at the
company’s Saint-Fons, Lyon site in France and is • G ood Day Sunshine, a sunscreen for the body with biodegradable
commercially available globally. To learn more glitters.
about Solvay’s portfolio of fragrance solutions
please visit solvay.com. • Pure Crystal Cream, a minimalist formula containing liquid crystals.

www.solvay.com • S ilky Putty, a modelling clay applied as a patch on fine lines and
wrinkles to reduce their appearance.

• Hair & Scalp Mud Mask, a mask to purify and detoxify the hair
and scalp thanks to the clay, while remaining comfortable thanks to its
emulsified texture which rinses easily.

More information on the collection is available on the dedicated website:
www.inspiration-gattefosse.com

1/2-2021 42 EURO COSMETICS

NEW INGREDIENTS

pTeroWhite®: Hautaufheller, Sonnenschutz und Anti-Aging

Einführung
pTeroWhite® ist ein standardisierter Extrakt, der aus dem Kernholz von Pterocarpus marsupium, auch bekannt als Indischer
Kino-Baum oder Vijayasara (Abb. 1), gewonnen wird. Er enthält 90% Pterostilben. Auf dem Gebiet der traditionellen Naturheil-
kunde, wie Ayurveda, Homöopathie und Unani, ist die heilende Wirkung der Pflanze bei gesundheitlichen Problemen bereits
hinreichend dokumentiert. Eine klinische Studie bestätigt
jetzt, dass pTeroWhite nicht nur hautaufhellend wirkt, son-
dern auch die Elastizität der Haut verbessert und dabei zu-
gleich feine Linien und Falten reduziert.

Beschreibung
Der natürliche Wirkstoff Pterostilben, ein stabileres Analogon
des Resveratrols, hat sich bei der Behandlung altersbedingter
Erkrankungen und Alterungserscheinungen als hilfreich er-
wiesen 1. So reguliert es die altersbedingten physiologischen
Mechanismen und schützt vor Entzündungen, Oxidation und
Glykierung. Präklinische Auswertungen weisen darauf hin,
dass der mit Pterostilben angereicherte Extrakt potenziell
antioxidative Eigenschaften besitzt, da er in der Lage ist, freie
Radikale zu neutralisieren. So fängt der Extrakt wirksam das
freie Radikal DPPH (2,2-Diphenyl-1-Picrylhydrazyl) ab. Die
Aktivität ist dabei vergleichbar mit Resveratrol und Kojisäure.
Der Extrakt hemmt zudem die Aktivität des Tyrosinase-En-
zyms in vitro sowie die Melaninproduktion und die UV-indu-
zierte Schädigung in vivo in den Melanozyten 2.

In einer klinischen Studie wurde die Anti-Aging- und haut-
aufhellende Wirkung von pTeroWhite-Creme an 38 gesunden
Probanden untersucht. Bei der Hautuntersuchung wurden
sowohl nicht-invasive als auch bildgebende Verfahren ange-
wandt. Dabei zeigte sich, dass die Creme aufhellend wirkt.
Darüber hinaus erhöhte sie die Elastizität der Haut und ver-
ringerte feine Linien und Falten. Insgesamt verfeinerte sich
das Hautbild im Vergleich zum Ausgangsbefund. Das Fazit
der Studie: Die zweimal tägliche Anwendung der pTeroWhite-
Creme über einen Zeitraum von 8 Wochen erweist sich als
sicher. Die Creme verbessert das Hautbild, versorgt die Haut
nachhaltig mit Feuchtigkeit, so dass sie jung und geschmeidig
bleibt 3.

Mit seinem prämierten zehnjährigen Wiederaufforstungspro- Abb. 1. Pterocarpus marsupium
gramm, bei dem 166.000 Kino-Setzlinge auf einer Waldfläche
von ca. 250 acre in Indien angepflanzt werden, sorgt das
Unternehmen für eine nachhaltige Gewinnung des Wirkstoffs.

References

1. Li Y-R, Li S, Lin C-C. Effect of resveratrol and pterostilbene on aging and longevity. [Die Wirkung von Resveratol und Pterostilben auf den Alterungsprozess
und die Langlebigkeit.] Biofactors 2018; 44(1):69-82.

2. Majeed M et al. A randomized study to determine the sun protection factor of natural pterostilbene from Pterocarpus marsupium. [Eine randomisierte
Studie zur Bestimmung des Lichtschutzfaktors von natürlichem Pterostilben aus Pterocarpus marsupium.] Cosmetics. 2020; 7(1):16.

3. Majeed M, Majeed S, Jain R et al. An open-label single-arm, monocentric study assessing the efficacy and safety of natural pterostilbene (Pterocarpus mar-
supium) for skin brightening and antiaging effects. [Eine offene, einarmige, monozentrische Studie zur Beurteilung der Wirksamkeit und Sicherheit von
natürlichem Pterostilben (Pterocarpus marsupium) hinsichtlich Hautaufhellung und Anti-Aging-Effekten.] Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2020; 13:105-
116.

1/2-2021 43 EURO COSMETICS

NEW INGREDIENTS

Greentech Group partners with Phytograde to unlock Conagen’s commercial production of sustainable musk portfolio
the potential of CBD and phytocannabinoids includes familiar and completely novel aromas to bring precious,
warm, and comforting scents to fine and household fragrances,
The CBD beauty is a real trendy phenomenon that has taken off. In personal care and beauty products.
order to meet the growing market demand, Greentech Group and
Phytograde have set up a close partnership combining their expertise Conagen Begins Scale Up of
to unlock the potential of Cannabidiol and other phytocannabinoids as Natural Sustainable Musk Macrocyclic
valuable biomimetic natural active ingredients for cosmetic, dermo- Lactone Fragrance Materials
cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical applications.
Conagen announced today its breakthrough develop-
According to Market Reports World, the global cannabidiol (CBD) cos- ment in the commercial production of natural and
metics market is expected to increase at a compound annual growth sustainable macrocyclic musk lactones from natural
rate of more than 30% from 2020 to 2024 to reach $3.1 billion (USD). substrates using its proprietary technology, further
Beyond CBD, there is a growing interest on phytocannabinoids. expanding its already extensive gamma-lactone port-
folio.
Greentech Group & Phytograde have decided to combine their expertise
to respond to this growing market. Musk fragrance compounds are typically used as base
note ingredients in perfumes. The natural sources of
Phytograde masters the sourcing of sustainable-cultivated industrial these compounds are found in glandular secretions
hemp and high-quality extraction processes to produce phytocannabi- of animals, such as musk deer and some plants. In
noid-rich raw materials. low concentrations, musks are expansive, velvety,
sensual and sweet. However, the fragrance industry
Greentech Group provides research, marketing and commercial sup- overall has moved away from animal sources, and
ports to promote these high-grade ingredients worldwide. plant sources are scarce. Currently, chemically syn-
thesized substitutes with similar scents are available
Research and development teams will join their expertises to implement for use.
a research program on phytocannabinoids to increase knowledge about
these molecules and to unlock their potential as valuable biomimetic Conagen successfully bridged its gamma-lactone pro-
natural active ingredients for cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical duction technology with its lipid platform to expand
and nutraceutical applications. its lactone portfolio to natural musk scent macrocyclic
lactones.
GREENTECH Pioneer in biotechnology, GREENTECH GROUP creates
high-tech active ingredients from natural sources from plant, marine www.conagen.com
and microbial worlds. Addressed to major markets (cosmetic, pharma-
ceuticals, nutraceuticals, feed & food, agronomy and environment), the
GREENTECH GROUP’s innovations represent proven and sustainable
alternatives, based on balanced relationships with local producers
around the world, in the service of future generations.

Jean-Yves BERTHON, GREENTECH CEO, [email protected]
www.greentech.fr

1/2-2021 44 EURO COSMETICS

NEW PRODUCTS

Düfte – die Gefühle EISENBERG Paris Kollektion L’ART DU PARFUM
der Blumen
EISENBERG vereint in der Kollektion L’ART DU PARFUM die
Dr. Grandel GRANDIOS MIA französische Parfümerie mit Kunst woraus hypnotisierende,
Grandios MIA ist eine Hommage an den Facettenreichtum olfaktorische Kunstwerke hervorgehen.
des Lebens. Die Duft-Kreation ist voller Spannung und
gleichzeitig reich an Harmonie. Das floral-holzige Duft- J’OSE für Sie
bouquet besticht durch Eleganz und Raffinesse. Sinnlich Definieren Sie die Regeln neu und seien Sie provokant! Die fri-
warme Essenzen aus der Basisnote schenken ein sche Spontanität der Zitrone und der Minze steht im Gegensatz
grandioses Finish. zu den Herznoten, die die Eleganz des Jasmins mit dem köstli-
chen Wirbel des Kaffee-Mokka vereinen. Die warmen Basisnoten
concept & communication GmbH & Co. KG des Amber zeichnen die Erinnerung an diesen furchtlosen Duft
www.concept-communication.de aus.

All that Gold! J’OSE für Ihn
BABOR Ampoule Gold Special Charity Edition Unvergesslich und betörend provokativ öffnet sich der Duft im
Auftakt mit den geheimnisvollen und verführerischen Kopfnoten
Die BABOR Ampoule Serum Concentrates The Gold Collection der Minze und der Artemisia. Die warmen und kräftigen Noten
präsentiert sich von ihrer edelsten Seite. Die 7 goldenen Schön- des Kaffee-Mokka entfalten sich in der Herznote des Parfums
heiten enthalten das Beauty-Geheimnis für jede Power-Skin: die und prägen die glühenden Noten der Amber-Basis.
geballte Wirkstoffkraft für schöne, strahlende Haut. Denn wer
sich schön fühlt, strahlt das auch aus! Perfekt in Szene gesetzt Die Parfüms sind bei DOUGLAS erhältlich.
werden die goldenen Beauty-Ikonen in einer eleganten schwar-
zen Box mit Herz Cut-Out. WHITE Communications GmbH
2 Wirkstoff-Wunder hat BABOR veredelt: www.white.de
Active Night (4 x): Schönheitsschlaf-Booster! Unterstützt mit
Algen- und Trüffelextrakten die nächtliche Regeneration. EUCERIN- Hautpflege mit UREA
3D Firming (3 x): wirkt 3fach gegen die Zeichen der Zeit: gegen trockene Haut
verbessert die Struktur der Haut, strafft das Gewebe und die
Konturen erscheinen wie remodelliert. Urea spielt bei der Pflege trockener Haut eine entscheidende
Rolle. Das bestätigt auch Dr. Simone Presto, Medical Science
[email protected] Manager bei Eucerin: „Trockener Haut mangelt es häufig
www.babor.com daran. Und der Urea-Gehalt in der Haut baut sich zudem mit
fortschreitendem Alter ab. Deshalb ist es so wichtig, bei tro-
ckener Haut geeignete Urea-Pflegeprodukte zu verwenden“,
rät die Expertin.

Von Eucerin gibt es eine komplette Pflege-Linie mit Urea.
Dazu gehört der neue UreaRepair PLUS Duschschaum, ein
leichter, sanfter Reinigungsschaum mit Urea und einem beru-
higendem Duft, der die Haut tagtäglich wirksam reinigt, ohne
auszutrocknen oder zu reizen.

www.eucerin.de
PR: Weber Shandwick, webershandwick.de

1/2-2021 45 EURO COSMETICS

PACKAGING INDUSTRY

Aptar develops an airless roll-on capsule for Neopac Launches Online Shop for
Lightinderm skincare device Digitally Printed Tubes

Aptar Beauty + Home has developed an airless roll-on re- Hoffmann Neopac, a global provider of high-quality packaging
charge capsule for Lightinderm skincare devices. As beauty for a broad array of industries and applications, has launched a
consumers increasingly seek dermocosmetic solutions for direct purchase microsite for DigitAll360°, its recently introduced
their daily skincare needs, devices that deliver salon-quality digital tube decoration service. The new marketplace, accessible
skincare treatments at home have boomed as a category. via shop.neopac.com, walks tube customers through an intuitive
Taking inspiration from dermatological treatments, the process that includes downloadable design guides and templa-
Lightinderm skincare device was launched after 7 years of tes, an initial portfolio of stock tubes from 50–200 ml in volume,
research and development within the auspices of Paris simple artwork uploads 3D renderings and a comprehensive
Santé Cochin – Europe’s largest start-up incubator in the pre-purchase artwork check.
health sector located within the Hospital Cochin in Paris,
France. The device uses three types of regenerative light to DigitAll360° Online shop was developed to meet the demands
transform and activate the encapsulated photo-active serums of beauty start-ups, fast-tracked projects of larger companies,
to trigger the skin’s deep regeneration and rejuvenation and the needs of contract manufacturers or small-quantity phar-
mechanisms, when applied.Within the device, the airless macy orders. The service prints photorealistic graphics and text
roll-on capsule enables secure housing and delivery of diffe- on the entire surface of cylindrical containers.
rent formulas according to the customer’s preference and
skincare requirements. www.neopac.com

www.aptar.com

Quadpack expands its presence in the Americas

Acquired in 2018, East Hill is fully integrated into the Quadpack brand, as
the company boosts its expansion strategy in the American continent.

Quadpack Americas leadership team: International beauty packaging manufacturer and provider Quadpack has
Anthony LeMinoux, Managing Director – Americas, started a major expansion drive, to broaden its operations in the Americas
Chris James, Vice-President Sales, and region. Quadpack aims to conquer one per cent of the $6 billion beauty
Chip Clayman, Vice-President Operations packaging market by 2025. Preparations include the integration of East
(from left to right). Hill Industries into the Quadpack brand, new sales offices in New York,
Los Angeles and Miami, and a sourcing center in Mexico. Quadpack’s
portfolio includes both its own Q-Line range and packaging solutions
from its manufacturing partners. The expansion plans will give beauty
brands in the region access to Quadpack’s packaging expertise and inno-
vations, particularly in airless, wood and other sustainable solutions such
as Sulapac® biocomposite packaging. They will also be able to purchase
from InStockPack.

www.quadpack.com

1/2-2021 46 EURO COSMETICS

PACKAGING INDUSTRY

Dr. Stefan König Schwan Cosmetics unveils new
(Quelle: Optima) corporate identity and design

Dr. Stefan König wird neuer Geschäftsführer Just in time for the start of a new year, Schwan Cosmetics,
der OPTIMA packaging group solutionprovider for color cosmetics, has unveiled its new
brand identity and logo. The launch marks theintroduction
Dr. Stefan König wird zum 01. März 2021 Geschäftsführer bei of a new brand purpose called Mindful Beauty. The new
der OPTIMA packaging group GmbH. Gemeinsam mit Hans positioning represents the company’s mindset and wholistic
Bühler (Geschäftsführender Gesellschafter), Gerhard Breu approach towards connecting consumer and market needs
(Generalbevollmächtigter, Optima Pharma Division) sowie into meaningful solutions. With its new visual identity,
Jan Glass (CFO) verantwortet König die weitere Entwicklung Schwan Cosmetics presents itself as modern and authentic.
der Unternehmensgruppe. Der Schwerpunkt liegt dabei auf The new logo in red embodies a visual connection to the
dem Bereich Produkte und Märkte. Zu seinen Aufgaben Schwan-STABILO Group.
zählen zudem die strategische Weiterentwicklung und die
verstärkte Internationalisierung der Optima Consumer www.schwancosmetics.com
Division und weiterer Tochtergesellschaften.

www.optima-packaging.com

Heinz Glas produces Coverpla supplies the complete
limited edition products primary pack for La Chênaie’s
for Estée Lauder perfumes

The German glass maker HEINZ-GLAS, is the producer of the glass, including Coverpla, a French packaging company
the decoration, for two limited editions recently launched by Estée Lauder. specialising in the perfumery and cosmetics
With the change into the new year, Estée Lauder has launched a new limited- sector, has been commissioned to design and
edition collection ahead of the Lunar New Year. This limited edition, for the produce the 50 ml bottles (including caps,
Year of the Ox, pumps and pump covers) for La Chênaie’s
includes skincare and make-up products. Already in October, 2020, the iconic new Eau de Toilette in the men’s Chêne Noir
„Advanced Night Repair Serum“ got dressed up for a limited collectible edition, and women’s Chêne Blanc versions.
in a metallic pink with gold text, by the German glass master HEINZ-GLAS. For
each purchase of this product until June, 2021, Estée Lauder will make a dona- In keeping with its green philosophy,
tion to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and thus support lifesaving La Chênaie designed an outer pack made of
research, education and medical services. FSC certified paper printed with bio-sourced
inks and made from naturally renewable and
www.heinz-glas.com recyclable materials.

www.coverpla.com

1/2-2021 47 EURO COSMETICS

ADVERTISER’S INDEX
1/2 – 2021

GAsBco–tCInhteesrhniraetiSoKn1al3LtDdF,.......................................4.9 CONrie–ntCahl aCohyeamngicaDlisIntrfioctr,mBaetijiionng(C1o0.0, 0L2td6.),..........C..2o..6v..,e4r 92, ISSN 0944-8942
29. Jahrgang 2021 • Volume No. 29
DBa–lle7r6s4ta0e1dRt a&stCaott...O...H..G..,.......................................5.0 PCaHm–as8o8l0A8GP, fäffikon........................................... 50
Organ:
Bitop AG, Dortmund..........................................3.5 Phenion, ....................................C..o..v. er 1 GD – Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie (e.V.)
D – 44263 D – 40589 Düsseldorf Publisher:
Michael Melcher
Clariant, Muttenz.............................................4.9 Sabinsa, 23, [email protected]
CH – 4132 USA – Piscataway, NJ 08854............................C..o..v. er 4 Editorial Board:
LM.-Chem. Peter Bernhardt,
CCoHsm– e8t1i6c2PrSotediuncmt aDuervZeHlo..p..m...e..n..t.,..........................5.0 SDig–m9u5n4d85LinWdanremr eGnmstbeHin,ach.............................4..9.., 50 Dr. Rudolf Bimczok,
Prof. Dr. Gerhard Buchbauer,
Derschlag GBmadbHBe&rleCbou. rKgG...,..................................5.0 USoSlAés–enILce60LL4C4,6...................................................3. 2 Dr. Franz Frosch,
D – 57319 Prof. Dr. Müller-Goymann,
Dr. Karl-Heinz Schrader,
DDü–ll2be2r3g35KoHnazmenbturarg, ............................................3.1 SSB 2S8tr2o1e7veBrreGmmebnH...,............................................5.0 Dr. Kuno Schweikert,
D– Prof. Dr. Gerhard Sontag,
Dr. Klaus Stanzl,
DFla–v6ex67N8a0tuRreehxltirnagketne..G..m...b..H...,...............................1.7 Surfachem, United Kingdom LS1 4BA..........4. 9 Prof. Dr. Helmut Viernstein
UK – West Yorkshire, Editor-in-Chief :
Meyer R. Rosen
DGe–rs6c1h4o5n2GKmöbnHig,stein...........................................5.0 Systemkosmetik, am Lech................................4.9 President and Founder of Interactive Consulting, Inc.
D – 86692 Münster E-mail: [email protected]
Senior Editor/Promotion:
GDr–ai6ch4e6n25GmBebnHs,heim...........................................5.0 TDh–. C5.0T6r9o4mmKöGlnm...b..H..,.........................................4..9.., 50 Ernst Jakobi
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 26
DInt–er8g5a5t3e0CHonasaurlbti.nMg üGnmcbhHen, ................................4.9 University 4o5f 2C2in0c..i.n..n..a.t..i.,......................................4.1 Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
USA – OH E-mail: [email protected]
Editor South East Asia/China:
KDH–K5G0m35b4H,Hürth.................................................5.0 Joh. Vögele KG, a.N.........................................4. 9 Albert K.P. Leung
D – 74345 Lauffen Executive, Hong Kong Cosmetic Technical
Resources Centre
MD T–C0–69D0r.5BBaartdhS, chmiedeberg.............................4.9 DH.–Er2h8a7r0d1WBargemneernG...m...b..H..,.....................................5.0 E-mail: [email protected]
Editor of Column on Austria:
Univ.-Prof. Mag. pharm. Dr. Gerhard Buchbauer
Althanstr. 14, A-1090 Wien
Phone: +43-1-4277 55550
Fax: +43-1-4277 9555
Marketing Director:
Claudia Oderwald
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 27
Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
E-mail: [email protected]
Production:
Thomas Velte
E-mail: [email protected]
Publishing Company:
INTER-EURO MEDIEN GmbH
P. O. Box 440255
D-80751 München
Phone: +49 (0) 89 - 36 03 74 27
Fax: +49 (0) 89 - 32 66 75 53
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.eurocosmetics-magazine.com
China Office:
Room 2006, MomaTowers Chaoyang
North Street No.199
Chaoyang District, Beijing(100026)
Phone:+86-10-68091928
Fax:+86-10-68091910
email: [email protected]
Managing Director:
Michael Melcher
Publication Mode:
Ten issues per year, two special issues.

Subscription charge: Germany EURO 165,- per annum (incl. forwarding
charges); Europe EURO 185,- per annum (incl. forwarding charges);
Overseas EURO 310,- per annum (incl. forwarding charges). One issue:
EURO 15,- (excl. forwarding charges).
A new subscription can be cancelled in writing to the INTER-EURO
MEDIEN GmbH, P. O. Box 440255, D-80751 München within 7 days
following the subscription (date as postmark). If the subscription is not
cancelled in writing two months by the end of the year, it is renewed
for one year according to the current regulations.
No responsibility is accepted for unsolicited manuscripts, pictures and
graphics. The responsibility for articles signed by name falls on the
author. Despite careful checking, the editorial staff and the publishers
accept no responsibility for the exactness of the articles.

© INTER-EURO MEDIEN GmbH
MUNICH/GERMANY

1/2-2021 48 EURO COSMETICS

SSUUPPPPLLIIEERRMa''rSSket GGUUIIDDEEPlace for Business

Aerosol Mixing Balls Aroma Chemicals Chemical Supplier

 

Aluminium Seals MTC – Anzeigenschaltung in Zeitschriften

Sealing systems made in Germany Auditing/Consulting EuroCosmetics
aluminium seals Chemical Supplier Ceresin/Ozokerite
digital packaging print Intergate Consulting GmbH
reel material Market Place,
induction liners Mei Graefe
heat sealing machines
induction sealing machines geänderte• Teams in Munich, Beijing und Hongkong Wunsch-Rubrik: „Auditing / Consulting“
Contact us:
+49 (0)7222/9515-0 • Operative surport of product registration
[email protected] in China
www.ballerstaedt.de • Identification of cooperate partners in
Greater China (China, Taiwan, Hongkong Clariant International Ltd
Beeswax
und Macau) ROTHAUSSTRASSE 61

• Negotiation strategies 4132 MUTTENZ
SWITZERLAND
A• n BGzrraeenadtiesrgeCthteiinng:aup and sales surport in
1•S Inptearimltmean(ag4er2fomr GrmeaterbChrineait)
CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE

HP.Oö.Bhoxe12:69Pch·o8an5e5.:3+034H95a8am9r b4.3mM57ü1n1c8h9en, Germany Cosmetic Product
Mail: [email protected] DevelopmentEuro Cosmetics - June 2019.pdf 1 03/06/2019 09:56:11

[Anzewiwgwe.in:t]ergate-consulting.de

MTC  Dr. Barth Gestaltung: Sie suchen proVfesesriowneellendete Farben
Microsoft Word, KosmetikproduSktteanntwdicakrludnfga,rben gemä
Managementsystems & Auditing Vers. 2007 kreativ, nach akMtuSellWsteomrdW,isVseenr.s. 2007,
 Trainings  Consulting www.cpd-deveenlotpspmreincth.cthEuropa-Ska
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 GMP-, QM-, EM-, IFS-HPC Auditor, OHS inspect. wTwawh.soumrfaachem.com (CYM);
 Audits of suppliers, manufacturers, contractors
 Cosmetics, bulks, APIs, ingredients, packaging analoge Farben nach
 Cosmetic GMP, GMP / ICH, IFS-HPC, QM, SHE
Essential OilDsIN 16538(?) wählba
MTC – Dr. Barth  +49(0)34925-72275
Bergweg 5a  +49(0)34925-722C81

06905 Bad Schmiedeberg  [email protected]

Germany  www.mtc-barth.dMe

[Anzeige Ende] Y VIenrgwreednideentte Schrift, horizontale
CM Sdcishtrriifbtugtriöoßne: n: Linien:
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MY - Bea1u1ty; &6;Pe5r,s5o;n5al Care
Logosymbol:
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1/2-2021 49 EURO COSMETICS

SSUUPPPPLLIIEERRMa''rSSket GGUUIIDDEEPlace for Business

Ceresin/Ozokerite Cosmetic Product Lanolin Lipbalm Full Service
Contract Filler Development
Kompetenz in Naturwachs
Sie suchen professionelle
Kosmetikproduktentwicklung, Wollwachs pharm. & techn. • Wollwach-
kreativ, nach aktuellstem Wissen. salkohol (auch BHT frei) • Cholesterol
www.cpd-development.ch Lanolin Öl • Lanolinfettsäure • Phyto-
Ester • p anzl. Konsistenzgeber • P an-
zenextrakte • Montanglycolwachs DAB
Naturwachse • Omega-3-Kapseln

www.wagnerlanolin.de

Microcrystalline Wax

Packaging Services

Essential Oils Filling Machines Natural Waxes

Aerosol Know-How Schellack
Machines for Aerosol
and Spray Systems ein nachwachsender Rohstoff
Pharma Food Kosmetik Technik

Glitter Effects Pamasol Willi Mäder AG Stroever GmbH & Co. KG
8808 Pfäffikon SZ - Switzerland Tel 0421 38613-0
Glitter www.stroever.de
brilliant effects for T +41 55 417 40 40
cosmetic products [email protected] - www.pamasol.com Services

SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Entry in our
www.sili.eu Suppliers’ Guide

Want to be seen?

Book now for Print AND Online
Contact:
Claudia Oderwald
[email protected]
Tel.: +49 (89) 36037427
Fax: +49 (89) 32667553

1/2-2021 50 EURO COSMETICS