Just Around The Bend Episode VI UTAH The National Park

JUST AROUND THE BEND

Episode VI
MOAB


It’s almost like taking a day off. We’ve come into Moab for
breakfast at the diner. Buckwheat pancakes, eggs, bacon, and
coffee. This is our favorite diner in 500 miles. After finding
the Moab Diner we have returned again and again. Once all
the way from Black Canyon, Colorado and back, just for
breakfast.




















We needed some nylon straps to lash down some supplies.
At a local mountaineering shop where we met Brian Jones.
Brian the owner climbs and scales mountains. He was a friend
of Malcom Daly , also a climber. Malcom’s mother Sally was
Arlene’s Maid of Honor at our wedding. The two of them,
Brian and Malcom were climbing in Alaska together



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when Malcom had a terrible fall. He was caught in a crevice
and couldn’t be rescued for hours We saw Malcom later with
his mother in Boulder Colorado. He was in a wheel chair;
possibly that was his last climb.

While in town we left the RV to have the oil and filters
changed. Walking around town is pretty easy. Most of the
shops are on Main Street. The barber shop was a few blocks
down and the library a few blocks in the other direction. We
visited both. The library has won small town awards. Arlene
did a little research on the town and I went around the corner
to the Internet Café to use their computers and check our
stocks
Moab is a tourist town, with lots of outdoor activities. River
rafting, hiking, and camping in the summer. Off road 4 by 4
driving, hiking, and climbing in the winter and fall.

We returned to Main Street past the post office and
Information Center where we bought tickets to our first
Rodeo. For lunch we stopped at the local micro brewery,
Moab Brewery. Good beer, nice food.
We’d left the windows open in the RV after having the oil
changed. The wind had blown up to 40 mph filling everything
with dust. Even inside our refrigerator. Cleaning up will give
us something to do when we’re back at camp in the late
afternoon.

We’ll clean up getting ready to leave Arches for the
Canyonlands and Dead Horse point.




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CHAPTER 7



CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK


THREE DISTRICS and THE OCEAN

THE MAZE

NEEDLES
ISLAND IN THE SKY

WHITE RIM OCEAN


DEAD HORSE POINT STATE PARK


HIKING THE ISLE IN THE SKY




















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Canyonlands National Park is only 527 square miles.
That’s not even as large as one of the top 25 National

Parks in the United States. But, it is the most desolate
and arid an area and in many ways the most
challenging. It’s divided into three districts, each with
different landscapes, yet they all share the remote and

often least mapped or cataloged of all. There is a
fourth yet not assigned the same status by the Interior
Department. The Great Ocean. It is the foundation
for the other three, see Appendix 1 Utah’s Geology, It

surrounds, separates, incorporates and defines them.
This is the White Rim Ocean, named for it’s geologic
layer.

There is a single paved road into each section. Other’s
existed, but are not easily accessible. Gold and

Uranium miners are given a lot of credit for opening
up the area during the 1930’s and 1940’s. These roads
were pretty rough, like the Burr or Shafer Trails.

Before these roads Native Americans, the Ancestral
Pueblo, or Anasazi had made hundreds of miles of
paths across southern Utah.

The Mesoamericans traded from South America to
this region thousands of years before. In any case





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Europeans, the Spanish and others never mapped the
Canyonlands until the one armed amazing John Wesley

Powell and his exploration traveled down of the
Colorado River through the Grand Canyon.

The easiest way to get an idea of how vast this park is
to stand on the point of the ‘Isle’s’ mesa and gaze off
to the horizon across the floor of the White Rim

Ocean. Far to the west are the rugged mounds of
THE MAZE DISTRICT, South on the horizon are
the needle towers defining THE NEEDLES district,
and of course from this spot, the point of THE ISLE
IN THE SKY district.






















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THIS IS CANYONLANDS.

















































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THREE DISTRICS


We have visited the Canyonlands four times, 2000, 2007, 2009,
and 2012. Right beside Arches is Canyonlands. It’s a huge
park made up of three Districs. Unlike Arches each of the
areas are much larger encompassing many square miles. They
are The Maze The Needles, and The Island in the Sky,.


THE MAZE

After hiking through the Firey Furnace we had an idea about
what THE MAZE area could be like, it is measured in square
miles not square feet. The National Park monitors it closely.
All access is registered, and guides are required.

At one point we talked with a tour guide who had hiked across
Utah 600 miles from Bear Lake in the northeast to St George
in the southwest. He led trips into The Maze, and was
scheduled to go again. However he had second thoughts
about the weather, it was very hot, but mostly he was worried
about his customers. They didn’t seem to have the experience
that made it safe for him to go. Once he went in to some
detail, we scratched ourselves from ever going ourselves. He
later told us he had cancelled the trip. It is this type of
character we wish all guides were like. He had put his job in
jeopardy, because he thought he knew best.

We have often referred to Edward Abby, a writer and Ranger
at Arches for several years. His descriptions of this country,





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the heat, and desert life are remarkable. His explanation of a
flash flood cleared our minds that it was just a dangerous wave
of water. Thanks to him we know it’s much more serious than
that. Many geologists have credited water from torrents of
rain for carving our great canyons. However, the debris it
carries is far more important a carving tool.

We have read many of his books, both his classic non-fiction
‘Desert Solitude’, which is a must before venturing into the
desert. Or his captivating fiction stories which are chronicled
in ‘The Monkey Wrench Gang’ series. One of his desperate
heroes excapes the law by hiding out in THE MAZE. It gave
us and understanding of why THE MAZE should be
monitored so closely. It’s unforgiving, uncharted, and
inaccessible. We would never venture into to it, even with a
guide. Its way beyond our abilities and ultimate survival.


THE NEEDLES
The Needles area on the other hand is 90 miles south of
Moab. It’s a long drive down Rt 191 to Church Rock and then
equally long into The Needles District. The final drive is
along low lying cliffs, tall towers and spires standing together
and in isolation. Our arrival was greeted by no one. We were
not just the only campers we were the only ones in the district.







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We found a place, our choice in ‘Squaw Flats’ campground.
This picture is where all the campers met for the Rangers
evening presentation. It was so desolate we didn’t even see
any Rangers.





























We persevered in the heat, without electricity, but were eager
to move on. Before we returned to Moab, however we did
climb a few flat pancake like rocks. This photo shows one
which, in our daring, we could jump from one to another. It
also shows the ‘Isle in the Sky’ mesa on the upper right with an
exclamation point mesa on the left.







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Needles offers a lot of trails and tours. We suppose that it’s
much more active in the fall and winter. One of the trails
leads to the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers.
We had considered hiking it, but were unprepared for such a
journey. It’s 11 miles one direction. Easily an overnight trip.
There were also day tours from Moab, but this time we’ll forgo
those.

The confluence of the two rivers is important because from
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ISLAND IN THE SKY

undammed. Lake Powell and Lake Meade were the first dams
built.
The ’Island in the Sky’ is above it all. An Island like a
peninsula because it rises 2,500 feet above the old sea bed.
Below are the two mighty rivers Colorado and Green
bordering it, and cutting deeper into the ancient ocean floor.

It’s a large plateau with a couple of campgrounds, ‘Horse
Thief’ and ‘Dead Horse Point’ and miles of rolling desert, with
at least one mining and cattle road down the cliff side, The
awesome SHAFER TRAIL..

To get there we drove outside of Moab, past Arches to the
turn off for The Island in the Sky. At the juncture we passed a
couple of fellows raising their hot air balloon. (That is not the
balancing rock in the background.)
It’s a long twisting road up the Redstone Cliff to the rolling
hills, and creosote plateau. We took it and once on top we
were surprised to drive another 20 miles to the park’s entrance.
And another 20 miles to the end of the Island and it’s
spectacular overlooks.










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It seems where ever we want to go is 50 miles away. Not like
San Diego where it’s 30 minutes to anywhere on an 8 lane
superhighway.

Our enthusiasm for this district exceeds any other area in the
southwest. We have returned to it over and over, with
different agendas. The experience has never disappointed us.
Here is a simple yet astounding photo over looking the Green
River cut, the uplifted ocean and our joy for Utah








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.







We will camp here, hike the plateau, and then take a daring trip
up and down to the boundless dry ocean bed.













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WHITE RIM OCEAN


We first drove the 30 miles to the Visitors Center, to learn
about the area, it’s history, trails and viewing areas. A young
Ranger with long slender hands distracted me as she told
Arlene all about the area. We left for the Green River
Overlook, the Willow Flats Campground and the Upheaval
Dome.









Of all the view points on the Isle the western views are the
most spectacular. From there the work of the uplift, and the
carving of the river can be seen. It’s believed that the ocean
floor around us has risen and fallen many times in millions of
years. One estimate is over 27 times.
The Green and Colorado rivers during that time have carved
passages through the ocean floor. Leaving the canyons we see.
The up lift of the Colorado Plateau is more evident here than
anywhere along the four state areas, Arizona, New Mexico,
Colorado and Utah. Below is the ancient ocean called the
White Rim.







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WHITE RIM OCEAN





















The White Rim is a flat surface with sage sprinkled across it
like pepper corn. There is a single road that curves along it in
no certain manner. Sometimes close to the rivers, sometimes
away from them.













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Here at the end of the plateau I’m standing about 4 feet in
front of this crevice.














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It reminds us again how difficult it is to judge the distances out
here.

The Isle plateau is between 1,800 and 5,300 feet above the
White Rim. Most of the overlooks are at the lower level.










































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DEAD HORSE POINT STATE PARK


We would stay on the top of the Island plateau for days.
Utah’s foresight in providing electricity at Dead Horse Point
Campground did the trick. We are now 50 miles from Moab,
and anywhere else we’d like to go. But, who cares we have
electricity.

Dead Horse Point gets it’s name because its another of those
natural corrals. Instead of a canyon it’s a slender strip of land
that leads across to a larger area and the campground. It’s
really part of the Island plateau, except for this narrow gap.

Horses were driven to the point and barricaded with a rough
branch and bush fence. It worked well except, there was no
water.

We’ve heard a lot of stories about horses and how they may do
things we’d consider impossible. Among them and primary to
our understanding horses are believed to commit suicide. You
recall the Gold Rush trail out of Skagway, Alaska where horses
were believed to leap off the trail rather than continue their
drudgery. Here, the animals could see and smell the
Colorado 2,000 feet below, and trying to get to water would
fall to their death.
It’s a good story, yet there are no chronicles or museums that
have uncovered any bones to prove the tale.










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We have arrived, and are camped on the edge of this natural
corral with its sun burned pinions and cedars. Across its neck
pieces of what we might call ‘drift wood’, because of their
tangled beached shapes, have been dragged and pilled high,
interwoven among their own twisted shapes to form natural
barrier for entry and exit to this park.

There are 12 sites in a circle, surrounded by these trees. Each
of the 12 camp sites are split off from the circle. Each with
their own electricity, ramada, with table, and fire pit. Water is
near the single restroom and shower facility. The State has
considered the water shortage and installed low flow toilets,
and a small sink for washing dishes. We noticed that several
ladies washed their hair there. It didn’t take much




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encouragement before we too used it to turn our stiff straight
hair into lovely curly, sparking locks.

There is also wooden cabinet where food can be kept. We’ve
never seen them used, as mostly everything is kept in the
camper’s vehicles. Tenters, keep only their tents and bags in
the open, and stuff everything else into their economical little
autos.

We are at site #6, a favorite, yet the camp only gets a rating of
2. Probably because were here, 50 miles from anywhere, yet
have electricity. The pretty red stabilizer jacks were added, a
few years back after I drove off dragging the original ones
behind.























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There was one advantage to the electricity. Many camps only
installed 20 amps, then a few up graded to 30, but we’ve found
most now upgrade to 50 amps. All campers if their rigs aren’t
equipped for 50 amps should carry a converter to the higher
amperage.




















A short distance from us was an overlook, where the horses
could have fallen or jumped. However, today its built into a
viewing stand of the Colorado Rivers Horseshoe bend.

This is the second ‘Horseshoe’ we’ve seen of this great river.
Twelve years ago when we looked out across this horseshoe
the river was full. There were no exposed sand banks or low




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water causing rapids to form. Now after a decade long
drought there is 30% to 40% less water in the river.


































All summer long there have been forest fires, in New Mexico,
Arizona, Nevada and Utah. Now there are fires in the high
country of Washington State. It is amazing and difficult to
believe that in the great southwest the smoke from these fires
can drift over thousands of miles. We have seen some
awesome sunsets and sunrises this trip, but we have also
learned to wash our eyes out each night and morning.





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Here is our first of many sunsets at Dead Horse Point.























And of course if you rise after the clatter and grinding of the
air conditioner early enough for the sunrise it looks like this.












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Beautiful wouldn’t you say?

















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We’ve seen enough of the ocean floor, canyons cut so sharp
and deep that from this distance we couldn’t know what it was
really like. We were now off to climb over this land. Each
step over each rock up each ledge, and across each dusty area.

We’re off to the Upheaval Dome. No one is sure what caused
it, a meteorite or a salt rise, but it’s domed and different than
the rest of the Mesa. All of the desert around Arches and
Canyonlands is believed to be above a salt ‘dome’ so to speak.
This Upheaval Dome is believed to have risen to the surface
and creates a rounded, whitish dome, unlike the rest of the
country side.
It’s a short easy trail starting around a group of pinions pines
some round sheet rock and some dusty pathway, where each
step raised a cloud of dust. Then it started up the first rise.
Above us we could only see a couple of trees, cap rock and
stairs.

In the outback there are no natural stairs. They are always
made by volunteers. Making them can be a real challenge, as
in Arizona at Lyman State Park where an archeologist, used a
flat blade shovel and a crow bar to shape the stairs. Working
on the hill side he flattened the surface and leveraged large flat
rocks over large ruts. He had worked on it for three years.








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There’s obviously little difference between building stairs and
building Pyramids. Just a different scale. We were faced with
a 40 foot stair, built with red limestone, each naturally flaked
from some larger rocks. Each raising like an ordinary step, 7”
to 9”. In between these sloped steps were slick rock, with little
gravel for stairs. They were not flat, putting more pressure on
our ankles than knees and hips. The ‘grab’ ability of our boots
was appreciated.

At the top of the first rise we stopped for a break. A good
opportunity to rest, and drink some water, but also to look




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over the landscape. It’s important to look behind you as you
hike. It’s good technique, and it actually helps you keep your
bearing, and remind you where you came from.

After our break we walked along a slight incline before coming
to another stairway. Each climb took it’s toll on us. The
altitude and heat make it even harder on us. The sun blisters
every part of our body, we can feel the sweat running down
our backs, our feet and heads throbbing. We can’t drink
enough water. Distant forest fire smoke is getting to us, its
more difficult to breath and its effecting our eyes.
Onward up another rise. It seems endless. Several climbers had
given up. We might be next. Its not possible for us to lose
enough weight, but every ounce would have helped. And so
we were faced with another stair climb, which being early in
the day we endured. We climbed, rested viewed the last rise.
We made it to the top and walked out among the carins just
short of the Upheaval Dome. It lay beyond us but we were
less than impressed. Surely, the climb had taken the
enthusiasm out of us. Below us were ledges of slick rock and
behind them was the canyon abyss. Once again gazed out
across the great ancient’s ocean floor.

We rested, drank and began to retrace our steps down the
mountain side.







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We recovered and headed back toward the ‘Grand View Point’
at the end of the plateau where we could see the Great Ocean,
the Needles area, and the Maze. Here with our imagination;
beyond our sight the two mighty rivers converged into the life
giving river of the Southwest.

At this point we came to another easy trail. It led toward the
eastern side of the plateau, eventually overlooking the
Colorado and the La Salle Mountains.
It was mostly flat and horizontal. That means no great
inclines, or hillsides. We could see long distances ahead, 50
feet to 50 yards, and around rises. By this time of the day it
had gotten warmer, and we wrapped our heads in wet
bandanas. Although it was reasonably flat it was not easy
walking, as we stumbled along the rough surface.

Slick rock is not so smooth that each step required us to
rebalance ourselves. The trail twisted, turned around mounds,
and over low rises.
It was a fun hike. We stopped along the way, played some,
took some pictures around the poor dried out trees, and
moved on to the grand overlook of the Colorado.











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There 2,000 feet below, and beyond, was a canyon cut by the
Colorado, but obviously had given up, and passed further out.
Beyond it on the hazy horizon is the La Salle mountains.
Moab is just below them.

We had taken our time on this hike, and enjoyed it. Yet on the
way back we realized how tired we were. We’d lift our foot to
walk over a boulder and kick the boulder, or kick a stone
several times before we stepped over it. That’s pretty tired,
but it was worth it. Seeing this desert country by foot is one
way. A good way to recognize how amazing and vast it is.




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Today it looked like another hot one, yet we had nothing
planned. Arlene liked our morning hikes so after breakfast we
thought we’d try the Dead Horse West Rim trail. It was 8
miles longer than we wanted, but we could always cut it short,
and make our own trail back to camp.
Like the flatish trail yesterday we were the only hikers. That
makes it more enjoyable for us, because in this country we
seldom see any wildlife, like a snake sometimes a few lizards,
and never a bear, lion, or deer. We left from camp, heading
for where we thought the trail was. It was an adventure, as the






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trail, was poorly marked, with only a few cairns to guide us.
Before we found them, we climbed down two 4 foot drops
and around a thicket.




















Arlene was quick to pick up and follow these piles of rocks,
staying on the path. I’d wonder off and she would call me
back.









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When we finally hiked down to the edge it was grand. Our
view was the steep Shafer Canyon. We stayed for an hour
before heading back onto the trail.

Arlene, really liked this hike. She kept well ahead of me
encouraging me to keep up.








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We have had a really good time in the Canyonland’s Isle in the
sky. It’s our favorite of the three districts in the Park. Yet for
years we have tried to explore and hike mostly on our own.
We are finding, as we age, we should have more help. If we
took a few tours and spent more time with guides we’d enjoy
ourselves even more. There are so many tours and places that
we could never go on our own around Utah, and particularly
here in the Canyonlands.









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CHAPTER 8



CRUISING THE COLORADO


CHOOSING AN ADVENTURE



SAFETY FIRST


PETROGRAPHS


CANYON CRUISING























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Moab and the National Parks seem to have no end to
interesting things to do. Ever since we went down the river
with Tag-A-Long tours we’ve thought about other river
excursions

We’d decided we wanted some real adventure. The kind we’d
never provide for ourselves. Something that only professional
lunatics could set up and carry off, the tour organizers.
A hardy group of wildly independent entrepreneurs and their
sidekicks; the bums of the season. Usually younger characters
who haven’t yet found their calling in life, but are pretty savvy
about the outdoors. And a few that have aged yet are still
unable to cope with the basics of society.

These were the guides we were about to entrust with our lives.
Here were some selections we could choose from. What
about taking a ‘Hummer’ into ‘Hells Revenge’? How about a
White Water trip through serious class 5 rapids? A jet boat 35
miles down the Colorado. Or maybe a 4x4 with locked axels
to climb over and through the canyons. A trip without roads,
or with steep narrow paths that are defined by these loonies as
roads. Where even mountain goats wouldn’t travel.

We could go on a day excursion to The Needles District. Oh!
Boy! Now that’s a good one. Or we could camp out on a five
day trip into Edward Abby’s world of THE MAZE.








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There’s only one guide we’d go there with and he wouldn’t
take us. Another trip to The Needles traveled those 11 miles
from the campground to the Colorado and Green River
confluence. We’d both liked that one.
And of all things a two for one trip. Down the Colorado half
a day in a Jet Boat, and a rough road trip in the Canyonlands
for the other half day.

Most of the tours we liked were over night. Several nights
through Needles, or into The Maze. One trip went down the
Colorado River through, the Cataracts, the worst rapids.
After looking at a few other tour agencies we decided to take
the two in one tour. What chickens we were not to entrust
ourselves to these guides for several days of an exciting
adventure. Instead we chose half a day down the Colorado,
and half a day on the Shafer Trail.



















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On our way into Moab we talked about working for the
Department of Energy, whose slogan is ‘SAFETY FIRST’.
We proposed that we’d be younger and transferred to Moab to
help clean up at this radiation and radon site, beside the
Colorado. Arlene said she wouldn’t go, she’d rather work for
the Defense Department. I wasn’t sure.
It’s a big operation. There is a line of train cars. Yes, the
effort to remove it has gone on for years. Long enough for a
rail spur to be needed.







































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The Excavation site is located beside the Colorado River, just
upstream from the town of Moab. It’s also beside the
entrance to the Arches N.P., and along this fault.





















All in all we quiver at the thought of our industrious
entrepreneurs. Even our government is capable of
encouraging such abandonment to the welfare of other
citizens. Recently, the BLM has encouraged drillers to mine
for gas and oil up on the plateau beside the State and the
National Park.





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Well on second thought I’d rather work for another part of the
Federal Government myself. Maybe, the Interior Department.
But, we could take a moment to imagine what down stream on
the Colorado is like. Say in Los Angeles, or the Imperial
Valley. Ugh! And we’re headed into Moab to catch a tour
down the river. Too bad we don’t have a Geiger counter.

The Southwestern countryside is filled with these areas that
have been destroyed by miners where there is little or no
regulation. This is a typical site, but Gold mines are often
abandoned and cause irreparable damage to the environment.





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Gold miners aren’t the only industry that digs up the earth and
when production falters leave the mess to the government to
clean up. In Florida the Potash mines have lead the State to
empty the toxic remains into the Gulf of Mexico.
This is a well just outside Dead Horse Point on the Isle in the
Sky. It was erected in the last 3 years. The BLM is supposed
to manage these areas. They are clearly under budgeted and
under staffed to handle either the clean-up or oversight of
these areas. Yet, local and private industries have proven they
can’t be trusted to care for our lands longevity.




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PETROGRAPHS



There weren’t many of us, 10 people including ourselves and
two French families as we piled into the huge bus and headed
off past the Uranium clean up outside of Moab down Potash
Road.
Our first stop was along the Potash Road wall where the
Indians had decorated the wall with Petrographs. The
drawings of many years ago help us understand about a culture
that passed it’s history mostly by word of mouth, generation
after generation. High on these walls were drawings of deer,
big horn sheep, fish, stick- people and assorted characters and
designs.
























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Living in this area was good for these Indians. According to
the petrographs, and the countryside, one could imagine they
lived up in the La Sal Mountains just east of the river during
the summer when it was so hot. In the winter they would
come down to the River to farm, hunt and fish.
It’s interesting to find these drawings so high on the canyon
walls. Possibly they were made so long ago that the River level
was also much higher. If that was the case they wouldn’t have
needed to climb up to draw.







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The River could have carved this area in the canyon below
Moab about 25 feet deep in a matter of 600 years. That would
be amazing.



















Hunting must have been pretty good, deer, elk, sheep, maybe
even bear. Then as spring came they’d move down into the
valley along the river. Fish, plant maze, and draw pictures.

I’ve never been a big fan of these ancient drawings despite
their cultural representations. They are seen as something
special, and are for sure. Yet, in our culture today, and even
thousands of years ago, any drawing by a 6 year old school
child,




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would do at least as well, including representing our cultural
significance.
Now if they weren’t Indians, but alien drawings wouldn’t that
be a rip!


































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CANYON CRUISING



We wondered about Doug, our driver,. He had a ‘been up to
late’ look, with rosy cheeks and red eyes. His good morning
‘slur’, wasn’t a western accent!
But, when he backed this large jet boat into the river we gained
a little assurance of his ability. In fact, he was quite a
character. He’d been doing this for a long time. So long that
he had laid the concrete for the boat ramp.

On the way down river he talked about the geology, the
miners, and Indians. The river runs calm, but fast. He told us
that lots of people took kayaks down the two rivers. Tag-A-
Long























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