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OceanofPDF.com S A R A H B U R T O N : B E Y O N D M c Q U E E N 151 S a r a h Burton imbues her designs with such elegance that she continues to a ttr a c t celebrities renowned for their style, including Michelle Obama , Liv Tyler and S a r a h Jessica Parker. Burton was obviously deeply a ffe c ted by the global pandemic and, at the height of it, expressed simil a r feelings re g a rding her design ethos to that of McQueen just before he died. The show notes for her S/S 2021 collection read: “Shape, silhouette, and volume, the beauty of the bare bones of clothing stripped back to its essence – a world cha r g ed with emotion and human connection.” In a post-pandemic world, she is looking to nature more t h a n ever, using recycled and sust a inable fabrics. For her A / W 2022 collection, she cited as inspiration mycelium, the delicate plant filaments of f u n g i which are now used as an alternative to leather. Mushroom motifs abounded on be autiful clothes and the c a t w a l k wa s scattered with wood chips. The show notes t a l k e d of nature being “a community that is far, f a r older t h a n we are”. Ale x ander McQueen would have been proud. T H E S A R A B A N D E FOUNDATION McQueen left one more lega cy to the world of fashion and the creative a rts – the Sa rabande Foundation. The foundation wa s given charitable st a tus in 2010, and on his death, McQueen left the vast majority of his estate to the support of its work. Sa r abande, named a fter his S/S 2007 show, wa s established by McQueen in 2006 with the intention to “support the most creatively fearless minds of the future”. In the wake of his tr agi c suicide, a group of his closest friends and collaborators looked for a way to honour his memory. O P P O S I T E Th is s c a rl e t E l iz a b e t h a n - inspired silk taffeta dress from A / W 2019 shows B u rt o n is just as m a s t e rf u l at cout ure as Mc Q u e e n himself. The volumin ous silhouette feat ures pleated sleeves that soar to an e x t e n d e d r u ff over the should e rs and around the n e c k , and the s k irt is pleated to re s embl e roses. The wid e blac k leather belt and laced b o o ts give it an edge of punk that would have won McQu e e n 's a p p r o v a l .
OceanofPDF.com 152 S A R A H B U R T O N : B E Y O N D M c Q U E E N R I G H T Th is muted pink tailored coat dress is a play on a c lassi c trench reminis cent of McQueen’s Givenchy ye a rs. The luxurious intricately quilted silk is offs e t by a blac k leather belt c inched at the waist, and the a s y m m e tri c hem is raised at the front. O P P O S I T E Th is leather patchwork dress in stri k ing b l a c k , red and purple from the A / W 2020 coll e c tion is a combination of a c lassi c little blac k dre ss, c inched at the waist, with a clever layered d r a p e over one shoulder.
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OceanofPDF.com 154 S A R A H B U R T O N : B E Y O N D M Q U E E N Among others, photographer Nick Kni ght, jeweller Shaun Le ane, a rtist Sam Taylor-Johnson and model Naomi Campbell worked to continue what McQueen had st a rte d . In 2015, the foundation opened a community-minded space, including subsidized studios, in an Ea st End converted warehouse where McQueen would most c ert a i n l y have felt at home. It ha s a lso funded a number of educational scholarships. By 2020 the foundation had helped 100 up-andcoming creatives across a v a riet y of disciplines, with s u c c essf u l a lumni including menswe a r designer Craig Green. Their outreach programme of events and workshops ha s helped thous ands more. As Trino Verkade, long-time friend and business associate of McQueen and the founding trustee of Sa r abande, explained to Something Curated in 2017: “He wa s a great supporter of young creatives and very passionate about giving people the opportunity to study if that’s what they wanted to do, and not be held back by financ i a l constraints.” The foundation continues to help youngsters achieve their d re ams in the name of Lee Ale x ander McQueen.
OceanofPDF.com S A R A H B U R T O N : B E Y O N D M c Q U E E N 155 L E F T McQueen’s legacy c ann ot be und e re stima t ed and in 2011 the Me tro p o l it a n Mus eum of A rt held a st unning re trospe c ti v e d edi cated to his genius wh ich was shown again with additional e x h i b its at the Vi c tori a and A l b e rt Mus eum in 2015. One of the e x h i b its, p e rf e c tl y staged to h ig hlig ht McQueen’s gothic a e st h e ti c , was this dress from his A / W 2 0 0 6 coll e c tion Widows of Cullod en, wh ich was inspired by the tr aditiona l kilts of McQueen’s Scottish a n c e st o rs. It is mad e in the Ma cQu e e n clan t a rt a n and worn over a nud e silk net top with a p p l i q u é d blac k flowers and a cream tulle u n d e rs k i r t .
OceanofPDF.com 156 I N D E X INDEX Numbers in italics refer to pages wher e captions appear A merican Express 71 A mies, Hardy 111 Ande rson & Sheppard 14 A ngels and Bermans co stumiers 7, 14 Angel s and Demons (A/W 20 10) 116, 119, 119 , 1 43–4 Anglomania Ball 133 animal bone 61 , animal-skin 57, 68 animals 19 , 46, 131 AnOther magazine 45 –6, 90 Armadillo boo ts 116 Armstrong, Li sa 60 Arnault, Berna rd 53 Atlantis 115 Bagley’s 35 Banshee (A/W 1994) 33, 35, 3 5 , 124 Barry Lyndon 104 Battle of Cullod en 98 Bellair, Trxii e 32 Bellmer la Poup ée (S/S 1997) 47–9, 47 , 48 , 77 Bellmer, Hans 47, 48 , 49 Bethune, Kate 74 birds’ claw 107, 128 birds’ nes t 100, 131 birds 7 , 13 , 19 , 35, 37, 46, 57 , 60, 83, 84 , 107 , 108, 108 , 123, 131 Birds, The (film) 35 Bird s, e (S/S 1995) 35 –7, 36 , 38, 95, 123, 127, 128 birdwatchi ng 13 , 14 Björk 81 B lade Runner 60 Blank s, Tim 147 blouses 9 3 Blow by Blow 126 B low, Isabella 7, 8, 25, 29, 35, 53, 54, 98, 108, 108 , 124–7, 125 , 126 , 127 , 131, 134, 137 Bluebird G arage 32 Bolton, And rew 30, 38 Born This Way 137 Borough Mar ket 67 Bowie, David 133 Bowles, Hamish 144 B rampton, Sally 39 br eastplate 129 breast s, naked 39, 71, 87 Brit Art 22 British Fashion Council 30, 38 Brothers Grimm 87 , 88 Bruni, Carla 63 “bumster” trousers 30, 30 , 32, 41, 45, 49, 8, 77, 139 Bündc hen, Gisele 81, 137 Burton, Sarah 9, 116 , 119, 119 , 139 , 143 –54, 143 , 144 , 147 , 149 Burton, Tim 87, 87 Café de Paris 33 Campbel l, Naomi 139 , 154 Ce ntral Saint Martins 7, 15, 19–25, 23 , 12 3, 124, 143 Chanel, Coco 114 Child, Les 92 Chitty Chitty Ban g Bang 84 Christ Chu rch Spitalfields 43 Christensen, Helena 46 Clark, Michael 90 , 90 coats 19 , 22 , 2 4, 25, 32, 45, 46 , 5 7, 77, 81, 95, 112, 119 , 133 , 152 Cockne y 13, 13 , 67 collars 35, 35 , 38 , 40 , 41, 43 , 57, 60, 81, 95 Costin, Simon 37, 57, 128 –9 Costume Institute Gala 143 Cut, The 3 5–6, 37, 46, 125 Da ily Mail 124, 137 Da ily Telegraph 60, 68 Dame Bleue, La (S/S 2008) 107–8, 108 , 1 26, 131 Danan, Ruti 43 Dance of the Twisted Bull, e (S/ S 2002) 87 Dante (A/ W 1996), 43–6, 43 , 4 4 , 46 , 123, 124, 128 , 130, 139 Day, Dori s 95 Dazed & Confuse d 127 De Niro, Rober t 30 Delacroix, Eugè ne 84, 87 Delaroche, Paul 22, 25
OceanofPDF.com I N D E X 157 Deliver ance (S/S 2004) 89–9 0, 90 Dior, Christia n 115 Divine Comedy 44 East End 7, 13, 13 , 22, 32, 43 , 45, 54, 57, 98, 116, 134, 154 Ec lect Dissect (Givenc hy A/W 1997) 57, 58 , 60, 61 École des Be aux-Arts 54 Elson, K aren 7 Emin, Tracey 22 England, Katy 37, 54, 127–8, 131 Eshu (A/W 2000) 81 Execu tion of Lady Jane Gr ey, The 22, 25 Eye, e (S/S 2000) 78, 8 0, 81 , 129 Eyes of L aura Mars 68 Faiers , Jonathan 41 “Fashi on of his Love” 137 Fashion Visionary 54, 71, 107 feathers 7 , 19 , 30, 43 , 44 , 57, 58 , 83, 90, 98, 104, 108, 10 8 , 126 , 131, 135 , 14 7 Ferguson, Paul 76 Financial Times 54–5, 128 fob watch 38 , 41 Frankel, Susann ah 25 fur 19 , 89, 98 , 107 FW magazine 41 Gaga, Lady 74, 136 , 137 Gainsbury, Sam 78 Galliano, John 5 3 Gatliff Road 71, 8 4 Gieves & Hawkes 14 Gigli, Romeo 14–5 Gir l Who Lived in the T ree, e (A/W 2008) 108, 111, 111 , 134 G ivenchy, Hubert de 5 3, 54, 60, 148 gothi c 8, 22, 25, 34, 56, 86, 86 , 98, 104, 10 7, 155 Green, Craig 154 Groves, Andrew 3 5, 37, 46 Guardian , the 30, 39, 87, 127 Gucci Group 60, 87, 116 Gu inness, Daphne 134, 134 , 136, 137 Halil, Judy 147 Handel 1 04 Harlow, Shalom 77 , 77 , 78 Harper’s Ba zaar 104, 137 Hartne ll, Norman 111 hats 60, 63 , 74, 87 , 88, 95 , 108, 131 haute c outure 53, 54, 57, 6 0, 61 , 111 Hawksm oor, Nicholas 43 hea dpieces 19, 43 , 44 , 46, 49, 54, 57, 57 , 75 , 84 , 109, 111 , 117, 1 26 , 130, 130 , 131 He dren, Tippi 35, 95 H ero magazine 131 Hig hland Rape (A/W 1995 ) 38–9, 38 , 39 , 40 , 41, 98,128, 129 Hirs t, Damien 22 Hitchco ck, Alfred 95 Horn o f Plenty, e (A/W 2 009) 112, 114 , 115, 129 , 131 Horn of Pelnyt, The (pub) 1 15 House of Beauty a nd Culture 39 How, E lizabeth 104, 107 Hu me, Marion 54–5 Hung er, e (S/S 1996) 2 9 , 43, 123 i-D magaz ine 128 In Memory of Elizabeth How, Sale m 1692 (A/W 2007) 10 0 , 104, 107 Incubus necklace 128 Indepen dent , the 32 Irere ( S/S 2003) 88–9 sIt’ a Jungle Out There ( A/W 1997) 67–8, 67 , 69 sIt’ Only a Game (S/S 2005) 92–3, 93 , 95, 131 Jack the Rippe r 115 Jack the Rippe r Stalks His Victims (1992 Graduate) 22– 6, 22 , 23 jackets 19 , 22 , 32, 35 , 37, 38 , 40 , 41, 45, 84, 95 , 100 , 111, 148 jewe llery 30, 47 , 49, 57 , 60, 81, 108, 128, 129 , 130, 131, 133 , J oan (A/W 1998) 71, 7 1 , 74, 75 , 134 Joan of Arc 71, 74 Kely , Mary Jane 115 Kidd , Jodie 43 , 44 Knigh t, Nick 25, 69 , 127, 154 kohl eyeliner 6 7 Kosina, Polina 147 Kubrick, Stanley 80 , 80 , 104 lace 33 , 45, 60, 74, 76 , 78, 88 , 93, 97, 99, 101 , 104, 101, 133 , 144 , 149 , 151 Lady Leop ard (Givenchy A/W 19 97) 57 , 55 Leane, Sh aun 38 , 41, 47 , 49, 57 , 60, 71 , 81, 81 , 98, 107, 108, 129–31, 129 , 154 le ather 41, 53, 57, 63 , 68,
OceanofPDF.com 158 I N D E X 71, 74, 75 , 76 , 81, 84, 87, 89, 95 , 107 , 147, 151, 151 , 152 leather shoes 39 Liberty Leading th e People 87 Little R ed Riding Hood 87, 8 8 LMVH 53, 60, 87 Lo ndon 7, 13, 15, 22, 32, 33, 39 , 55, 57, 60, 67, 115, 128, 13 4 London Fashion We k 30, 119 MacQueen tartan 9 , 38 , 39, 40 , 41, 74, 98, 133 , 1 55 Madonna 41 Maison Givenchy 8, 53–63, 53 , 55 , 58 , 60, 61 , 63, 67, 68, 87, 89, 119, 125, 148, 152 1997 A/W haute c outure (Eclect Disse ct) 57, 58 , 60, 61 1997 A/W ready-to-we ar (Lady Leopard) 57 , 55 1997 S/S haute couture (Search for the Golden Fleece) 54–5, 55 Man Who Kne w To Much, e (A/W 2005) 95 Marie Anto inette 87 Marin Livi ng magazine 125 Mary Poppins 87 masks 45 , 74, 81, 83 , 84, 89 , 108, 129 , 147 McCu llin, Don 45, 124, 139 McQueen 29 McQueen, Alexa nder 7–9, 7 , 9 , 43 , 53 , 55 CBE award 9 Central Saint Marti ns 19, 22–3, 23 dea th 8–9, 116, 119, 11 9 , 143 early career 7–8 , 7 , 13, 14, 15 Givenchy 8, 53–63, 53 , 55 , 58 , 60, 61 , 63, 67, 68, 87, 89, 119, 125, 148, 152 goth ic 8, 22, 25, 34, 56 , 86, 86 , 98, 104, 1 07, 155 Gucci Group 60, 87, 116 homose xuality 13–4 Isabel la Blow 7, 8, 25, 29 , 35, 53, 54, 98, 10 8, 108 , 124–7, 125 , 126 , 127 , 131, 134, 137 Scottish herita ge 39, 40 , 98, 147 , 155 sexual abuse 13 taxidermy interest 60, 68, 111 McQueen, Janet (sis ter) 124 McQueen, Jo yce (mother) 8–9, 13 , 14, 112, 116 metal 32, 47 , 49, 71 , 75 , 81, 81 , 111, 129 , 1 30, 149 Metropolitan Museum of Art 9, 19 , 30, 41, 133 , 134 , 155 Middleton, Kate 144 , 148 Milligan, Laur en 124 Misérables, L es 14 Mixed Blood 45 Monroe, Marilyn 95 Moroni, Giovanni Bat tista 15 Morrissey, Paul 45 Moss, Kate 4 5, 82 , 96 , 99, 137, 139 Mow,er Sarah 78, 95, 116, 143 MTV Vi deo Music Awards 74 Mullins, Aimee 76 , 7 7, 127, 128 National Gallery 22 Natural Distinction, Unnatu ral Selection (S/S 2 009) 111–2, 112 neck lace 60, 128, 130 Ne ilson, Annabelle 134 Neptune (S/S 2006) 95 New York 19, 30 , 43 , 44, 81, 139 New York Times 53, 54, 1 12, 126–7 Nicholas I I, Tsar 71 Nihilism (S/S 1994) 32 No. 13 (S/S 1999) 74, 77–8 , 77 , 128 Nosferatu 84 O’Connor, Erin 8 2 Obama, Michelle 15 1 Observer , the 60 O ley, Michelle 83 , 8 4 Onward Kayashima 4 3, 45 Overlook, e (A/W 1999) 78, 78 , 8 0, 131 Pantheon ad Lucem (A/W 2004) 90, 92 Paris 8, 53–5, 5 3 , 60, 67, 87, 89 Pa rker, Sarah Jessica 133 , 151 Pearl, Mr 37, 45 Pellicano 35 Picnic at Hanging Rock 93 pins 133 , Plato 115 Plat so’ Atlantis (S/S 20 10) 15, 116 Pollac k, Sydney 89–90, 90 Poupée, La 47 pregna nt skinhead model 33 , 35 prints 19 , 22 , 23 , 25, 25, 37, 38 , 43 , 45, 63 , 71.95,
OceanofPDF.com I N D E X 159 108 , 112, 116, 123, 123 , 124, 133 prostheti cs 76 , 127 Quick, H arriet 57 Ritz Hote l, London 30 robots 77, 78 Salle Wagram 89 Sanitarium 83 , 8 4 Sarabande (S/S 200 7) 100 , 104, 107, 15 1 Sarabande Foundati on 9, 139 , 151, 154 Savage Beauty (2011 retrospective) 9, 22 , 30, 38, 104, 115, 134 , 143 Savage Beauty (book) 98 S canners (A/W 2003) 8 8–9 Schindler’s List 96 Sclater Street 1 3 Search for the Gol den Fleece (Givenchy S/S 1997) 54–5, 55 Shaw, Debra 47 , 49, 69 Shining, The 80, 80 shirts 32, 35, 84 SHOWstudio. com 127 silhouettes 14, 23 , 24, 32, 57 , 81, 87, 90, 95, 95 , 100 , 107, 108, 111, 147, 151, 151 skirts 7 , 23 , 34, 37, 40 , 41, 46, 57, 71 , 74, 76 , 81, 83, 86, 88, 91, 93, 95, 95 , 96 , 98, 100 , 104 , 111, 136 , 149 , 151 , 155 sleeveless 37, 40 , 43 sleeves 24, 35 , 60, 81, 95 , 151 Smith, Alice 54 Something Curated 15 4 Spindler, Amy M. 5 4 stand-collar jacke t 38 Sunday Telgrap h 57 Sunday Times , t he 41 Supercalifragi listicexpialidocious (A/W 2002) 87–8, 87 Swarovski crystals 90, 90 , 107, 111 swe ater vest 87 Toarli , The , 15 Taxi Drive r (A/W 1993) 29, 30 Taxi Driver (film) 30 taxi dermy 60, 68, 111 aT ylor-Johnson, Sam 15 4 Tennant, Stella 46 , 137 They Shoot Hor ses, Dont’ They? 89– 90, 90 omas, Dana 8, 37 Thomsons’ gaze lle 67 , 68 Time Out 39, 68 Times, The 57 Treacy, Philip 46, 88, 95 , 98, 111 , 108 , 125, 126 , 130, 131 Tyelr, Liv 151 Ung less, Simon 22, 22 , 23 , 25, 35–6, 37, 38 , 43, 45, 46, 123–4, 123 U niversité René Desca rtes 57 Untitled (S /S 1998) 68, 70, 129 , 137 Verkade, Tnir o 154 Victoria and A lbert Museum 14, 22, 74, 130, 155 Vogue 55, 63, 78, 82, 92, 95, 107, 108, 119, 1 31, 143, 144, 147, 1 48 Vos (S/S 2001) 7 , 81–4, 81 , 83 , 84 W magazine 108, 111, 136 Walsh, Baillie 96 , 99 warrior woman 8, 8 1, 148 Watt, Judith 54, 71, 107 Watts, B ob 76 Webb, Iain R. 57 Westwood, Vivienn e 39, 41 What a Merr y-Go-Round (A/W 2001 ) 84, 87 Whiting, An na 78 Widows of Cull oden (A/W 2006) 19 , 96 , 98–9, 99 , 130 , 1 37, 155 William Morr is sheath dress 38 W illiam, Prince 144 W illiams, John 96 Wil son, Louise 15, 19, 23 Wintour, Anna 124 Witkin, Joel-Peter 83 , 84 Womesn’ Wear Daily 44, 10 7 Yatsuno, Koji 14– 5 Yoruba tribe 81 Yv es Saint Laurent 90
OceanofPDF.com 160 C R E D I T S CREDITS e publishers would like to thank the following sources for their kind permission to reproduce the pictures in this book. Alamy: Abaca Press 18, 117; /Artefact 24; / Chronicle: 12; /DPA Picture Alliance 150; / Nathan King 119; /Reuters 130; /Trinity Mirror/Mirrorpix 79 Photograph by Nikki Brickett, © RR Auction: 34, 38, 39, 43, 44, 46, 48, 69, 122 Camera Press: Photography by Charlotte Macpherson, Camera Press 33; /Photograph by Anthea Simms, Camera Press 6, 40, 83, 85 Getty Images: Bassignac/BUU/Gamma- Rapho 91; /Benjamin Auger/Paris Match 52; / Dave Benett 125, 138; /Randy Brooke/ WireImage 96; /Stephane Cardinale/Corbis 92-93, 94; / Alexis Duclos/Gamma-Rapho 42; / Michel Dufour/WireImage 97; /Steve Eichner/WWD/Penske Media 135; /Estrop 146, 149; / Matthew Fearn/AFP 9; / Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Penske Media 100, 101; / Francois Guillot/AFP 102, 105, 106, 109, 110, 113, 126; /Dave Hogan 133; /Chris Jackson 145; /Stephen Lovekin 142; /Guy Marineau/Condé Nast 80; / Mike Marsland/ WireImage 71; /Catherine McGann 31, 139; / Desiree Navarro/FilmMagic 132; / Print Collector 15; / Stephan Schraps 136; / Daniel Simon/Gamma-Rapho 55; / Kristy Sparow 152, 153; / Pierre Verdy/AFP 58, 59, 62; / Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho 76, 77, 114, 129; /Paul Zimmerman 155 Private Collection: 23 Copyright Ruti Danan: 36 From the Alexander McQueen Archive of Ruti Danan Sale, RR Auction, February 22, 2020: 28, 99 Shutterstock: 66, 118; /Michael Euler/AP 56; /Alex Lentati/Evening Standard 75; / Cavan Pawson/Evening Standard 82; / Andy Rain/ EPA 20-21; /Ken Towner/Evening Standard 63; /Paul Vicente/EPA 72-73; /Steve Wood: 47, 61, 86, 88 Every effort has been made to acknowledge correctly and contact the source and/or copyright holder of each picture. Welbeck Publishing apologizes for any unintentional errors or omissions, which will be corrected in future editions of this book.