Method Magazine

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TABLE OF CONTENT

The Keys to Streetwear / page 6
Women in Streetwear / page 12

Yeezy Season III / page 21
Stussy / page 26

Top Streetwear Brands / page 40
Fashion Forward / page 48

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STHTERKEEEYTSWTOEAR

Initiate yourself into the prevailing mood in streetswear by following these
simple steps

Words by Mr Adam Welch,
Deputy Editor, MR PORTER

Words by Mr Adam Welch, Deputy of trends – luxury athletic wear being

Editor, MR PORTER one and an abiding interest in looks

Are you truly urban or merely urbane? pioneered by skateboarders, punk

Either way, streetwear should now rockers and 1980s rappers being

be on your radar. And to those who another. There’s also an element of

have been thriving on a steady diet thrift-shop archivist to streetwear as

of tailoring for the past decade, the core components are items that you

incorporating it into one’s repetoire probably already own: a varsity jacket,

can be intimidating a sweatshirt and

– a bit like being “In any case, however gleaming white
sneakers.
the protagonist In any case,
in one of those you define it, streetwear however you
is increasingly, define it,
comedies where streetwear is
ubiquitous, thanks to increasingly,
you wake up in a ubiquitous,
slouchy adolescent’s its ongoing infiltration
body. Worn well, into the world of high-
end style.”
streetwear says, “I’m

part of something, thanks to its

and I believe in it”. Worn badly, it says ongoing infiltration into the world of

in a voice reminiscent of Mr Jason high-end style. This movement has

Bateman, “Oh, man, am I old!” been spearheaded by the likes of Mr

The term itself is tricky to define as Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Mr

it is used to describe a constellation Lucas Ossendrijver atLanvin, who

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regularly incorporate elements of the
street in their seasonal collections, but
it’s also represented by a slew of newer
(typically New York-based) brands such
asPublic School, Tim Coppens, Todd
Snyder and Alexander Wang, which is
another way of saying, “This is what
the cool kids are wearing”.
Given the above, we at MR PORTER
thought it was high time we issued
some sort of guidance as to how
to incorporate streetwear into your
wardrobe. Here are our rules of the
road.

WEAR IT
OVERSIZED

Let’s start this segment with an apology
to all the readers out there who have
spent hours in the gym sculpting an
impeccably v-shaped torso to look
imposingly wonderful in a slim-fit
Henley T-shirt. Because streetwear is
baggy and shapeless and… well, this is
awkward… you’ve pretty much wasted
your time. For the rest of you: enjoy
the unrestricted feeling of wearing a
shirt, sweater or jacket that is in fact, or
has been designed to look like it is, at
least one size too big. Like Mr Riccardo
Tisci’s Columbian Fit T-shirts and
polos for Givenchy. Or Public School’s
hockey jersey-like Avelina T-shirt. As
for how to insert such pieces into your
outfit, we suggest combining multiple
items in layers over a pair of knee-
length shorts.

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WEAR YOUR LOGO you’ve got hundreds vying for attention horribly un-chaotic and un-legendary
WITH PRIDE simultaneously. One extra tip: logos old-timer on the other? The picture
that hail from places far from your above has a fantastic solution to this
In the luxury world, at least since the current GPS location get big style conundrum in its pairing of grey
late 1990s, it’s become a bit of a no-no points. A Malibu surf shop’s T-shirt is tailoring (usually spotted in offices and
to walk around with a logo on your as good in Paris as the above Chinese at weddings) with sneakers, a cap and
chest – such ostentatious show-offery, Nike logo flip turns heads in London. a pair of tees covered with assorted
so goes the consensus, is in poor taste. stick-it-to-the-man messages. On the
In streetwear though, a logo signifies MAKE A one hand it’s square, on the other it’s
a little more than just how much you STATEMENT irreverent (particularly the tying of the
paid for something, it’s a badge of jacket round the waist – not that we
honour and an acknowledgement Streetwear is a subcultural affair, would necessarily recommend doing
that you’re aligned with a particular created for and by a series of skaters, this with your latest Berluti purchase).
style tribe. Given this, sporting your punks and anti-establishment kind of The contrast works, and taps into the
favourite brand’s logo is completely guys. This means it has never been shy knowing irony that is the bedrock of a
permissible, whether it’s on a logo of grabbing attention with the odd good streetwear look.
tee, cap, sweatshirt or bomber jacket. slogan, and neither should you. How,
Just make sure not to overdo it, by though, to get away with sporting SWEATPANTS
which we mean stick to one (max a phrase like “CHAOS” (MCQ) or
two) logos at a time. It looks a bit “The legend of No.1 was born” Incorporating an element of
promiscuous and – dare we say the (Neighborhood) without looking like streetwear into your outfit can be a
unspeakable word – inauthentic if a bratty kid on the one hand, or a more subtle business, particularly given
the preponderance of high-end track
pants currently on offer from brands
across the board. In the image above, a
pair with an elasticated waistband and
rolled-up cuffs has very successfully
taken the place of a pair of chinos.
The baggy fit of the T-shirt and bright
white sneakers, of course, also add a bit
of casual swagger to the look. These
could also be paired with an oversized,
baggy shirt if you so wish, but we
would recommend you stay away from
wearing track pants with highly tailored
items such as the structured or double-
breasted blazer.

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WEAR A CAP WITH flexible. Opt for a single piece (an Keys to Streetwear
YOUR BLAZER accessory is the easiest) as a splash of Method 9
colour against navy tailoring or a black
Baseball caps are a streetwear bomber jacket.
essential, and, though formerly banned
from most runways, have, in the KEEP YOUR WHITE
past decade, been slowly making an SNEAKERS WHITE
appearance on those most hallowed
stretches of polished flooring too (Mr Though shoes tend to make and
Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin was a break an outfit, in streetwear, they are
frontrunner here – he’s been fielding the alpha and omega, the lynchpin of
high-end caps as far back as 2007). it all, which means they not only need
It seems the right time to announce, to be chosen for maximum impact,
therefore, that a cap can be worn with but should be looked after with
a tailored jacket, not in a tweed-y, fusty, terrifying passion. It’s a good general
aristocratic way, but as a clash of idiom recommendation therefore, to pick a
reminiscent of Mr Spike Lee (who is pair of sneakers that will contrast the
able to wear a cap with anything and colours of your outfit, and so stand
pull it off). Just make sure that it’s part out. Plain denim, for example, works
of an outfit that, overall, is casual, well with patterns and prints. Beige
comprising jeans and chinos and of chinos (of the Dickies variety) will
course, sneakers – the world is not quite complement a bright colour such as red
ready for a cap and a three-piece suit. or green. Predominantly though – such
is the current style climate – you will
CAMOUFLAGE be wearing black clothing and white
sneakers, as in the above image. There’s
Military surplus has also had a strong something particularly appealing about
influence on streetwear. Adding a this combination, harking back as it
streetwear edge to your outfit can does to the days of hip-hop pioneers
therefore be as simple as choosing a Run-DMC. It only works, though, if
piece in camouflage, currently available you spot clean your adidas after each
in the collections of many beloved and every wear with warm water and a
brands including Valentino, Givenchy damp cloth, so they retain their pristine
andSaint Laurent, as well as street- whiteness. If you’re anxious about doing
inspired marques such as Chimala this right, head straight to this week’s
and Neighborhood. Though it might video onlooking after your sneakers.
seem a busy print, camouflage is, of
course, designed to blend in with
its surroundings and so is mightily

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Method 11

The Surprising Freedom of Being a Woman in the World of MSterene’stwSterearetwear

CAMERON WOLF
Dec 10, 2015, 12:00p

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Freedom

Streetwear, the catchall term for it’s a great time to be a woman working famed glossy once upon a time, and
essentially all clothing inspired by in men’s streetwear. says: “They look you up and down and
skateboarding, surfing, and hip-hop, they know if you’re wearing something
is no longer a small segment of the When we reached out to some of cheap. Their treatment really changes,
population’s best-kept secret. It’s streetwear’s most successful women, even if you’re an intern.”
broken through in a big way: taking we expected to hear that they felt “No bullshit,” “chill,” and “down-
over runways and infecting trend- unwelcome in the male-dominated to-earth” are repeated throughout
chasing high-fashion designers, while world. We were pleasantly surprised conversations we have with women
consumers trade in their pants for by most of the stories these women working in the streetwear industry.
joggers and their oxfords and heels had to tell; there was a feeling that “Whenever I go to an event for editors
for Nikes and Adidas. And while the they traded in the buttoned-up fashion it is mostly guys, but I don’t really feel
men’s streetwear industry often seems industry for an environment as like I’m being dominated, it’s just more
like as much a boy’s club as a premiere comfortable as the ultra-casual clothing chill,” Lee says. “Guys are easy to get
for the latest Entourage movie, there’s it produces. along with.” Sandrine Charles, who
a handful of women killing it in the “The mood [at Harper’s Bazaar] is very works PR company Exposure, echoes
streetwear game. According to them, much like The Devil Wears Prada,” that sentiment: “I like working in a
Elaine YJ Lee, a former editor at male-dominated industry; I get along
Highsnobiety and Selectism, sister sites great with guys,” she says.
that cover the all-encompassing world Photographer Christina Paik, who
of streetwear. Lee recently decided to shoots for streetwear brands like Kith
freelance full time, but interned at the

and Off-White, loves shooting dudes. Exposure, where Charles works as
“They aren’t afraid of getting their ‘bad an account director, handles brands
side,’” she says. as massive as Coke and Nike. She
personally manages hugely important
For most of these women, streetwear streetwear brands like Kith, Robert
wasn’t necessarily the end goal. They Geller, and Noah, the brand founded
serendipitously found themselves in by former Supreme creative director
the industry and then, like all good Brendon Babenzien. In addition, she
love stories, became infatuated and controls the personal brands for these
started borrowing all of its clothes. “I companies’s creative directors, like
actually majored in finance at NYU,” Kith’s Ronnie Fieg (who boasts over
Lee tells us. She found herself crossing 355k followers on Instagram) and
every potential career in fashion off Noah’s Babenzian (who’s been profiled
her list during her college career. “I in the New York Times). Streetwear
started out with PR, like anybody, struck a chord with her after working
did merchandising, sales, wholesale.” on a Coca-Cola campaign for Nigo,
She even shadowed buyers at Saks the designer who created streetwear
Fifth Avenue for the retailer’s summer mainstay Bape and Billionaire Boys
program. After graduating, she saw a Club with rapper Pharrell. “I love this,
listing to apply to Highsnobiety and I love this story, I love the fashion,” she
Selectism and, like any soon-to-be- realized, explaining, “That was the first
graduate would, she applied.

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real hit for me, and I was like, this is it, this is Bronilla explains. “So they wanted someone with
all I want to do.” the expertise and somebody who was passionate
about it, and I already had the contacts.”
Christina Paik, who also shoots for the
$50 million success story Stussy, only got Bronilla found it was easy to make contacts
involved in the industry after streetwear in the menswear world starting out in the early
brands reached out to her. Paik exhibited her 2000s; the world was much smaller and more
own style in a personal portraiture project, interconnected. Trade shows were a prime source
and brands took notice: “I was only for her connections, she says, explaining, “we
posting teasers on social media,
but Nike, Stussy, and A Bathing would walk the show and it would just be
Ape had reached out asking to like, ‘boom.’ I was good friends with
collaborate. I was still living in Paris the guys from Puma and Adidas.” The
when Virgil Abloh [Kanye West’s intimacy was heightened by smaller,
creative director] asked to shoot his close-knit show spaces, and, of course,
debut collection for Off-White.” parties. “There weren’t five million
types of trade shows; it was all under
Sarah Bronilla was only 20 years old one roof,” she recalls. “The parties
when she got sucked into the world of were amazing. Everyone was going out
streetwear. Bronilla interned with Vice and having fun — it was actually good
in her hometown of Montreal, way back networking,” she says. Today, she finds
when the now-massive media company the disparate trade shows too isolated
still went by Voice; when the publication from one another.
was so small it was funded through a Working in the streetwear industry
Canadian welfare program. Bronilla had has been mostly a positive for these
such a knack for the industry that when women, but there are still unfortunate
Vice decided to launch in the US, they occurrences of double standards
sent Bronilla along with the publication’s and discrimination. “‘Never use
three owners, Shane Smith, Suroosh Alvi, your sexuality to get ahead,’” was
Gavin McInnes. “They didn’t know about the advice Bronilla received from
fashion, they didn’t know about streetwear, infamous Vice founder Shane Smith.
they didn’t know about that business,” “I’ve always has that in mind since
the day I started.” Bronilla also
14 Method finds herself ignored. “There’s times
where I’ll be standing in a circle talking

to someone, and a head of marketing come up
to the circle and only introduces himself to the
men.” And sometimes wishing earlier in her career,
“Fuck, I wish I was a six foot white man.”
Charles finds success by being assertive in the
industry. “You have to let people know what you
need, why you need it, and how you’re going to get
what you need to get done completely,” she says.

However, for the most part, most of these
women believed that working in the industry
holds many positives, not least of which is

their wardrobes, which have evolved in a
more comfortable direction. “I was one of
those girls that always wore heels,” Lee says.
“Working here, I wear sneakers and sneakers
only... Once you get used to the comfort of
sneakers you can’t wear heels again, or even
wedges and flats.” Charles also adds that her
personal style has evolved since joining the

industry. “I’ve always been more of a prissy

Freedom

girl, and as I grow up and I evolve my Kith has began NYC domination with Paik dismisses the ideas that
style not only changes, but is nearer a new store location and cereal bar in women getting into men’s streetwear
to my personality,” she explains. Brooklyn, cult skater brand Palace is is just a trend, especially the trend of
“Traditionally I’d always have to be in taking their already-everywhere tri-logo a “woman wearing [her] boyfriend’s
a dress for corporate-y events, balls, or to Los Angeles, Noah has a physical clothes.” She explains, “Fuck that,
events with my family.” location in Manhattan, and menswear my guy friends borrow more of my
finally has its own dedicated Fashion Week. pieces if anything.” Paik’s attitude
Women helping to tell the story epitomizes women’s growing love
of men’s streetwear — from design “Women helping to for streetwear. Although we’re still
to marketing — is a much-needed tell the story of at the point where of all the apparel
adjustment for an industry gaining companies in the Fortune 500, zero
acceptance outside its comfort zone. men’s streetwear have a woman as CEO, streetwear
The trend now dominates runways is providing a more inviting outlet
and outlets beyond the usual suspects. — from design for women. And the numbers will
“Women’s outlets are now covering likely, and hopefully, be balanced
menswear, and how to incorporate to marketing is out by women who share Paik’s
menswear pieces into their style, unadulterated love for streetwear.
because girls are constantly stealing a much-needed “I was always more Biggie than
their boyfriends’ sweaters and bougie,” she says. “I liked Rocawear
sweatpants just to go around the adjustment for an before I liked Riccardo, but I found
corner,” Charles says. And the situation a way to love both.”
is showing no signs of slowing down. industry gaining

acceptance outside

its comfort zone”

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Method 19

“ “It’s Yeezy season, y’all!

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Yeezy Season III

Kanye West Debuts His ‘The Life of Pablo’ Album
& YEEZY Season III in Madison Square Garden

It’s Yeezy season, y’all! name a few. But one special guest who
made quite the debut—Lamar Odom!
After a number of hints and teases on The NBA star, who has been recovering
Twitter ahead of his big show today in after suffering an overdose, arrived with
Madison Square Garden, the time has Kanye to the show and received cheers
come for Kanye West to officially de- from the crowd.
but his Yeezy Season 3 collection during
New York Fashion week today, and as Additionally, along with previewing his
you may have expected, it’s becoming latest pieces, Yeezy debuted new music
quite the extravaganza. off of his highly anticipated album The
Life of Pablo. Clothes and a concert?!
First off, this is a star-studded affair, Yes, please! According to tickets, there
with celebs like, Young Thug, 2 Chainz, is also a performance featuring con-
Tyga, Kid Cudi, Jonathan Cheban, Aus- temporary artist Vanessa Beecroft, and
tin Mahone, Anna Wintour, and, of a lengthy set of performance rules that
course, his wife Kim Kardashiandaugh- hVave hit the Internet.
ter North West and her famous family
(all wearing white) in attendance, just to Kanye went straight to the DJ booth
upon arrival to introduce his new al-

Method 21

about the clothes this season. I about the clothes this season. I
think I make money as a celeb think I make money as a celeb
or this is easy to do, one of the or this is easy to do, one of the
hardest thing to do is to be- hardest thing to do is to belie-
lieve in me and come work ve in me and come work with
with a rapper. It feels so
good to see my brothers, a rapper. It feels so good to
my wife, her sisters, and all see my brothers, my wife, her
of New York standing be- sisters, and all of New York
hind the crazy n---a from standing behind the crazy
the interviews. I want to n---a from the interviews. I
thank Vanessa Beecroft. want to thank Vanessa Bee-
Adidas for paying this and
supporting me.” Yeezy croft. Adidas for paying
also gave a shout-out to this and supporting me.”
Balmain designer Olivier Yeezy also gave a shout-out
Rousteing for helping him to Balmain designer Olivier
put together the Kardashians’ Rousteing for helping him
outfits for the show, and Cari- put together the Kardas-
ne Roitfeld for putting Kim on hians’ outfits for the show, and
C.R. Fashion Book and going Carine Roitfeld for putting Kim
to their wedding, calling her a on C.R. Fashion Book and going
“real bitch.” to their wedding, calling her a
“real bitch.”
The rapper tells everyone, The rapper tells everyone,
“This is really a gospel album... “This is really a gospel album...
and this is something that and this is something that
couldn’t have happened wi-

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Yeezy Season III

about the clothes this about the clothes this season.
season. I think I make I think I make money as a
money as a celeb or this celeb or this is easy to do,
is easy to do, one of the one of the hardest thing to
hardest thing to do is to be-
lieve in me and come work do is to believe in me and
with a rapper. It feels so come work with a rapper.
good to see my brothers, It feels so good to see my
my wife, her sisters, and all brothers, my wife, her
of New York standing be-
hind the crazy n---a from sisters, and all of New
the interviews. I want to York standing behind
thank Vanessa Beecroft. the crazy n---a from the
Adidas for paying this and interviews. I want to
supporting me.” Yeezy thank Vanessa Beecroft.
also gave a shout-out to Adidas for paying this
Balmain designer Olivier and supporting me.”
Rousteing for helping Yeezy also gave a shout-
him put together the Kar- out to Balmain designer
dashians’ outfits for the Olivier Rousteing for
show, and Carine Roitfeld helping him put toge-
for putting Kim on C.R. Fashion ther the Kardashians’
Book and going to their wedding, outfits for the show, and
calling her a “real bitch.” Carine Roitfeld for putting Kim
on C.R. Fashion Book and
The rapper tells everyone, “This is going to their wedding, ca-
really a gospel album...and this is so- lling her a “real bitch.”
The rapper tells everyone,

Method 23

bum, and told guests, “I’m gonna play solemnly in the middle of the crowd most of the focus seemed to go to his
a new album, feel free to dance and wearing the Yeezy Season 3 collection. music. Another track titled “Famous,” is
move. This first one is called ‘Ultra Li- Meanwhile, guests, including Kanye, are said to be about Taylor Swift and inclu-
ght Beams,’” and proceeded to dance still dancing to his new music. des the line, “I made that bitch famous.”
and mingle with guests as his music fi- One model in particular stood out, and Kylie Jenner was spotted dancing and
lled MSG. that was Naomi Campbell. Yep, the singing along to the song with her sis-
iconic supermodel is part of the show, ters Kendall Jenner, Khloe Kardashian
Similar to his previous shows, Kanye wearing black fur and a black body suit and Kourtney Kardashian.
ditched the traditional walk down the (and looking flawless, obviously). Kanye also played tracks “Highlights”
runway, and showcased all of the diffe- and “Wolves.”
rent pieces at once. Once transitioning Although the clothes themselves are
to his second song, “Father Stretch My attention-grabbing—similar to the sim- Kanye addresses the crowd, “New
Hands,” the curtains dropped and re- ple cut and design as his previous lines, York City! How are you feeling about
vealed a number of models standing but still creative in their own respect— my album? Tell me how you feeling

“Although the clothes themselves are
attention-grabbing—similar to the simple
cut and design as his previous lines, but
still creative in their own respect—most of

the focus seemed to go to his music.”

about the clothes this season. I think I struggle. I feel so happy, I feel so much Hermes. I just want to bring as much
make money as a celeb or this is easy joy to create music without people s-- beauty to the world as possible. I’m only
to do, one of the hardest thing to do is -ting on me, and I thank my wife and 38 years old.”
to believe in me and come work with a family for supporting me.” To close out the show, Kanye thanks
rapper. It feels so good to see my bro- Adidas, Jay Z and fans for allowing him
thers, my wife, her sisters, and all of He also revealed that his wife is not to do this show and for their support.
New York standing behind the crazy n-- the only one in the family to have her He then tells everyone he has to hand
-a from the interviews. I want to thank own game. Kanye created a video game the iPod over and go backstage to be
Vanessa Beecroft. Adidas for paying this dedicated to his late mother, Donda, ca- with Kim and the kids. He thanks the
and supporting me.” Yeezy also gave a lled “Only One: The Game.” It features crowd again for letting him “spill his
shout-out to Balmain designer Olivier his track “Only One” and focuses on guts out,” and also give a nod to Kirk
Rousteing for helping him put together the concept of his mother going throu- Franklin, Rihanna and others for doing
the Kardashians’ outfits for the show, gh the Gates of Heaven. “Y’all act like features on his album.
and Carine Roitfeld for putting Kim on s--t is regular. You don’t understand I
C.R. Fashion Book and going to their meet with everybody in San Fran and
wedding, calling her a “real bitch.” they diss the f--k out of me. I want to
make a game and say f--k you. That s--t
The rapper tells everyone, “This is was hard to do, man.
really a gospel album...and this is some-
thing that couldn’t have happened wi- Additionally, he tells guests, “My
thout God holding me down. It’s been a dream, I told Anna Wintour this bac-
kstage, to be the Creative Director of

24 Method

Yeezy Season III

THE FUTURE OF
SOUND ON THE
EDGE
“It feels so good to
see my brothers, my

wife, her sisters, and

all of New York

standing behind the

crazy n---a from

the interviews

“

Method 25

"a global
streetwear
brand with annual
revenues of $50
million. How did
they do it?”

26 Method

BY J I A N D E L E O N
JUNE 3, 2015 12:00

NEW YORK, United States — In 1980, Califor- The idea came from kids who donned white
nia-bred Shawn Stüssy began creating surfboards painter’s caps — Stüssy reinterpreted them with
that combined innovative performance shapes his own graphics and colour schemes. Among
with a graphic style combining elements from two of Stüssy’s most enduring designs are a pair
reggae, punk and new wave music, leaving his of linked S’s, a play on the famous interlocking
literal mark on each board with a broad-tipped C’s of the Chanel logo, and a graphic that says
black marker. His signature paid homage both to “Stüssy No. 4,” riffing on Chanel’s signature
graffiti handstyles and his uncle, abstract painter perfume. By 1990, the business was generating
Jan Frederick Stüssy. $17 million in annual turnover. By 2014, Stüssy,
still independently owned and operated by the
In 1984, Shawn Stüssy went into partnership Sinatra family, had grown into a global streetwear
with accountant Frank Sinatra Jr. (no relation to brand with annual revenues of $50 million. How
the singer) on an apparel line using Stüssy’s name. did they do it?
The label was the first to make caps marked with
signifiers for fashion brands, not sports teams. “They may have come from a skate and surf

Method 27

background, but they didn’t stay there,” Kopelman, and Luca Benini — all of lyrics by Bob Marley and Eric B. &
says Chris Gibbs, owner of stree- whom have helped disseminate the Rakim as it was with design nods to
twear-led menswear store Union Los aesthetic and culture of what’s now Comme des Garçons. Stüssy him-
Angeles. called “streetwear.” The so-called self was often inspired by magazines
“International Stüssy Tribe” spread its like i-D and the store reinforced the
In the brand’s infancy, Shawn Stüssy message not just by wearing all manner unique visual language of the clothes
travelled to cities like London, Paris of custom varsity jackets, graphic tees with forward-thinking campaigns and
and Tokyo, where he found people and baseball caps (Kopelman credits editorials by photographers like Ron
who shared the same tastes in music, Stüssy as “the first company to send Leighton, Juergen Teller, and Mario
fashion, and culture. In 1991, Shawn boxes of gear to fans”), but also throu- Sorrenti.
Stüssy and James Jebbia, then-owner of gh an all-encompassing lifestyle that
Union and future founder of stree- transcended genre. “It became this mash-up of what was
twear label Supreme, opened Stüssy’s going on at the time, which was hip-
first flagship store in New York. A Mario Sorrenti shoots Stussy for the hop and surfwear,” adds E.P. Cutler, a
900-square-foot space located at 104 cover of Let’s Panic | Photo: Mario consultant for WeConnectFashion and
Prince Street, it was part of the first Sorrenti, courtesy Let’s Panic author of an extensive report on the
crop of retailers that planted their flags Stüssy shot for the cover of Let’s Panic 2015 streetwear market. “Stüssy was
in the still-gritty, up-and-coming Soho | Photo: Mario Sorrenti courtesy Let’s the first to marry the two in a way that
neighbourhood. Panic was really interesting.”
The Stüssy style did to clothing what
Stüssy’s globe-trotting, like-minded hip-hop did to music: creating some- As the company approached the
group of DJs, club kids, skaters, and thing new and fresh by sampling the mid-nineties, however, it began to fal-
multidisciplinary creatives included familiar. Stüssy apparel was as rife with ter. Stüssy’s hand-styled logo was being
guys like Hiroshi Fujiwara, Michael confused with the similarly scrawled

28 Method

signature of American youth-oriented “That was the lowest point in Stüssy’s his last name, the company also had a
clothing label Mossimo, which was less history,” recalls David Sinatra, Stüssy’s rich visual well of over fifteen years of
selective about its list of stockists than 28-year-old chief executive and Frank archives to draw from.
Stüssy. The brand was also losing busi- Sinatra Jr.’s son. The company’s reve-
ness to a new trend — urban-themed nue had been reported at $35 million With sales declining in the United
lines skewed towards a more aggressive the previous year and in 1996 it sank States, Sinatra Jr. focused on building
hip-hop aesthetic. to $21 million. Despite the dip, the Stüssy’s global business, where it was
business remained in the black. “My received especially well in Japan. At the
“In the early ‘90s, ‘urban’ was where dad would want me to remind you that time, the Harajuku streetwear scene
it was at: Triple Five Soul, FUBU, we’ve been profitable every year of our was booming: brands like Hiroshi Fuji-
Mecca, Akademiks — those guys were 35 years,” jokes Sinatra. wara’s Goodenough, Nigo’s A Bathing
driving the market,” remembers Gibbs. Ape, and Shinsuke Takizawa’s Neigh-
Frank Sinatra Jr. took the reins of borhood flourished.
The label’s decline was punctuated by Stüssy and a new creative team was put
Shawn Stüssy resigning as the com- in place. Nick Bower, a Central Saint In Europe, Luca Benini helped boost
pany’s president in January 1996, citing Martins graduate whose first job was at Stüssy’s retail presence through his dis-
the desire to spend more time with his Valentino, became head designer. Paul tribution company, Slam Jam. To this
wife and son in Hawaii, saying it was Mittleman was appointed creative di- day, Stüssy does more business globally
“not a hostile thing.” His departure rector in 1997. The second iteration of than it does in the US and David Sina-
precipitated the company’s worst per- Stüssy lacked Shawn Stüssy, but besides tra estimates the split is about “60-40,”
forming year ever. with Japan remaining its largest custo-

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mer base. Stüssy’s international tribe has
swelled into a worldwide movement.

“Even though they don’t have the
original designer, their most iconic
signature would be the font — his
handwriting, which they were able to
retain,” says Gibbs.

Stüssy also traded in the currency of
the logo flip — the reinterpretation of
famous trademarks and images with a
knowing nod, channelling the attitu-
de of placing graffiti or a sticker over
a subway ad. In addition to Stüssy’s
Chanel homages, the younger Sinatra
remembers one particular Stüssy pattern
modelled after Louis Vuitton’s mono-
grammed print: “I know Shawn did it, it
was probably in the late ‘80s, we called
it ’Stu-ey Vuitton,’ and we got sued for
it, actually.”

“With all those logo flips, we have a
long history of cease-and-desist letters,”
admits Sinatra, who sees Stüssy’s torch
being passed to current designers such
as Virgil Abloh and Shayne Oliver.

“Shayne Oliver, he’s a street guy. He’s
100 percent one of the better fashion
designers of our day, but he’s also a guy
who would throw a lot of parties and
would DJ — and that’s what we do.”

Despite rumours in the early 2000s
that Sinatra Jr. had plans to sell the
company to Renzo Rosso, whose OTB
Group is the parent company of brands
including Maison Margiela, Marni and
Diesel, Stüssy remains an independent
label. It operates more like a family
business than a global corporation, but
it also feels like a fashion house with
the shadow of its original designer
looming over it. David Sinatra has taken
on a more active role in the day-to-day
operations in California, along with
Vancouver-based Fraser Avey, Stüssy’s
29-year-old global brand director.

“The business has grown in a crazy
way the past couple of years,” says Sina-
tra. “We reluctantly did over $50 million
last year.” Reluctant because, according
to Sinatra, the company is currently
trying to cut back and stay small. “It was
probably one of our biggest years ever
— and it was an accident.”

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" It was probably
one of our biggest
years, ever and it
"w a s a n a c c i d e n t
Photo by Nathanael Moody

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Sinatra characterises Stüssy’s third this wider reach but still have a really of a collaborative capsule collection,
act as having a “brand-first, revenue strong connection to what makes them vintage Stüssy items from the ‘80s and
second” philosophy, in order to avoid special,” says Sinatra. ‘90s, and special one-of-a-kind pieces
becoming “this big monstrosity that made from deadstock Stüssy garments
doesn’t stand for anything.” The last four years have seen fresh by Central Saint Martins design student
faces appear in Stüssy’s creative team. and SHOWstudio collaborator Kiko
As a market, Cutler describes stree- Paul Mittleman left his post as Stüssy’s Kostadinov.
twear as an industry that business-min- creative director in 2011 to become
ded types “are trying to get their hands Adidas’ global senior design director. “Dover Street is something that is
on, but they don’t really know.” Her Nick Bower resigned in 2014 as Stüssy’s probably at the pinnacle of inspiring
report valued the streetwear industry head of design. Nin Truong, founder retail for us,” says Avey. “We had the
at around $75 billion in 2014 — half of the streetwear label Maiden Noir concept to kind of show up and do a
the size of the $150 billion market for and accessories line Blk Pine Works- bit of a retrospective on the brand.”
sportswear apparel. hop, has since assumed Bower’s duties
as design director. This year alone, Stüssy has released
Unlike Volcom (acquired by Ke- collaborations with Union Los Angeles,
ring in 2011 for $608 million) and A Fraser Avey brought on Ryan Willms, Japanese labels Mastermind and So-
Bathing Ape (acquired by Hong Kong editor-in-chief of Inventory magazine, phnet, London design studio La Boca
conglomerate I.T in 2011 for about less than a year ago to help spearhead and Santa Monica skateboard shop Rip
$2.8 million), by choosing not to sell, the label’s marketing and communica- City Skates. Sinatra says these collabo-
Stüssy has worn its authentic streetwear tions. Avey credits Willms with running rations and projects are a branding play.
provenance on its sleeve. point on Stüssy’s latest project, an ins- “There’s no real economic motivation
tallation on the fourth floor of Dover in working with Union [Los Angeles]
“We look at Nike, Patagonia and Street Market, New York, consisting or DSM [Dover Street Market]. We
some of these other brands that have

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Stussy

probably lose money on those projects, to find alternative brands that speak to “What a young kid in Taiwan is
but those are the projects we get exci- them outside of mainstream mall labels wearing isn’t so far off from what
ted about, and those are the projects like Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch and a young kid in New York is wearing
our friends get excited about.” Aeropostale — all of which are in dire anymore,” notes Sinatra, who says
financial straits. that the increased sophistication
What Stüssy is making money on, and brand understanding amongst
however, are a slew of wholesale As a team, younger consumers is one of the
accounts that vary from boutiques with we're reasons Stüssy is thriving, while
fashion cred like Trés Bien and Colette “brands with less of a value propo-
to larger chains like ASOS and Urban doing what sition” struggle.
Outfitters, one of its biggest accounts feels
in the US. That said, Stüssy keeps a clo- “You got kids who know all about
se eye on the types of product that go right, when Raf [Simons], who know all about
to each stockist, to keep its multi-tiered it feels Stüssy’s history, and they don’t even
business consistent with the brand’s right have a driver’s license,” he adds.
particular point of view.
Cutler thinks Stüssy’s staying
“Whatever we do with Urban power also has to do with its en-
[Outfitters], we’re very careful that it’s trenched branding. For older consu-
not because Urban Outfitters wants mers, it hits a certain nostalgic note,
to make more money; it’s because it’s but for kids, it just looks cool.
something we feel is genuine to Stüssy,”
asserts Sinatra. “The Stüssy logo is still powerful
and still relevant 35 years on. That
“As a team, we’re doing what feels says something,” she says. “It’s a
right, when it feels right,” agrees Avey. resuscitated brand that never lost
touch with its heartbeat.”
Another reason Stüssy remains rele-
vant is that streetwear and the culture “This is the environment we’re
associated with it is inherently young. supposed to be in,” adds Sinatra.
In the age of the Internet and social “This is the age of the small cul-
media, it’s never been easier for teens ture brand doing well.”

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Top Streetwear Here we go. 11. Undefeated
Brands of 2017 No matter who we chose for this L.A.’s true streetwear OGs, there’s

by Ted Sherman list, someone, somewhere is going little to say about Undefeated that
to be salty that their favorite brand hasn’t been said already. While Eddie
wasn’t picked. But as we look at the Cruz’s brainchild has produced season
complicated history that streetwear after season of streetwear staples for
has had—especially as it continues to well over a decade, the line predates
evolve and change its relationship with several of the labels on this list by
other aspects of the fashion industry years—innovating a mentality that
at large—we wanted to isolate the focused on the streetwear basics and
biggest, best, and most impactful labels has risen to include collaborations with
to streetwear’s current state (whatever adidas, Bape, Nike, Neighborhood, Pa-
that is). tta, Supreme, and several other of the
industry’s biggest and brightest. You
With new labels cropping up literally can’t even argue that the brand doesn’t
every day, you’ll find some obvious adapt, keeping in mind the label’s
classics (and few surprises) among the recently launched “Technical Goods”
names on this list. But as streetwear collection. Putting L.A. streetwear on
becomes even harder to define, we the map, even if you don’t anything
wanted to give shine to those who from Undefeated’s storied catalog, you
established the industry, added a unique need to bow down to the power of the
flavor, and turned it into the influential “five strikes.”
juggernaut that it is today—all coming
from within these 50 states.

Take a deep breath, these are the 11 Best
American Streetwear Brands Right Now.

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Top Streetwear Brand

10. 10.Deep 9. Billionaire Boys Club
Brooklyn-based 10.Deep has a sto- Starting in 2005, Billionaire Boys

ried spot in the game. Surviving throu- Club benefited from the popularity of
gh the Karmaloop era of streetwear Pharrell and Nigo’s Bape—bringing
and staying true to its roots even today, the flavor of the Japanese brand to the
the brand—in the words of founder shores of America. A skate team and a
Scott Sasso—produces “good looking, variety of offshoot lines, and BBC has
good quality, reasonably priced pro- been in business for over a decade. As
duct.” That doesn’t mean it’s skimping one of the most iconic brands of the
on the details though, with each co- mid-to-late 2000’s in terms of hip-hop
llection embodying what is current and style, it’s a brand that’s been flexible
what is trending in the ever evolving over the years. As the brightly graphic
realm of streetwear. With attractive an style it pioneered faded from popula-
on-point collections that are on offer rity, it has transformed and reworked
even today—like the brand’s Fall 2015 itself into a brand that’s created an
entry into its reoccurring “VCTRY” co- upscale offering via Bee Line, cove-
llection, or the flannels and Malcolm-X ted monochromatic Timbs, and key
graphics from the “Chaos Theory” Fall collaborations that have benefited from
2015 collection—10.Deep may have Pharrell’s pop culture resurgence and
time in the game, but it’s far from worn the brand’s history. Is it the biggest
out. brand on this list? Not necessarily. But
we know that, even today, you can re-
cognize the brand’s “Moonman” when
you see him.

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8. Concepts 7. Born x Raised
Sure, a Freebanz collaboration collec- If you’ve ever wanted to dress

tion helped reignite wider interest in like you’re from the mean streets of
Concepts, but the Massachusetts-based Compton in the ‘90s, this is your brand.
shop has been churning out well-timed Paying homage to L.A. both past and
collabs (most notably in the world present, Born x Raised utilizes OG
of sneakers) for years now. Majorly “olde English” typefaces to critique
coveted collaborations with Asics, New gentrifying L.A., while recognizing it’s
Balance, and Nike make sure it cements gritty past—earning more credibility
its spot among sneakerheads, but with a when you realize the brand was first
conceptual (pun not intended) colla- conceived while co-founder Spanto
boration with Mitchell & Ness, to sit was incarcerated. Gaining buzz early
alongside it’s seasonal apparel offerings, buzz after support from Prodigy, and
it’s a reminder that sneakers aren’t the Evidence of Dilated Peoples, the brand
only thing it can flourish on. It may not has grown to reach the wardrobes of
be as big as megabrand Chanel, but you names like Kendrick Lamar, and can be
know those interlocking “C”s when found L.A. menswear shop Union LA.
you see them. As the name implies, it’s a brand that’s
just about paying homage to the place
where you’re born and raised—warts
and all. Making fire tees, well, that’s just
an added bonus.

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Top Streetwear Brand

6. Anti Social Social Club 5. Brain Dead
An air of mystery surrounds a num- Kyle Ng’s lowkey skate-inspired label

ber of the brands on this list, but few is one of streetwear’s best new brands.
can match the enigmatic nature of Anti A spot on the shelves at Union Los
Social Social Club. A home for dad Angeles, and stints at NYC’s Nepen-
caps as much as graphic T-shirts, Stussy thes and Kinfolk in the past year have
affiliate Neek Lurk’s brand is proba- helped to increase the label’s notoriety
bly the closest thing to seeing a cool among skaters and streetwear fans
teen’s Tumblr feed to come to life as alike. Known for it’s post-punk, almost
an apparel line. The brand’s website is “hand-screened” graphic appearance,
a bizarrely abstract (yet intriguing) with the label examines culture at-large with
most products having unrelated titles a perspective that’s reminiscent of Raf
and nearly no information about what Simons and Supreme—while still re-
the product is. Some examples include maining uniquely dark and humorous.
the “What Do You Mean” and the While “skatewear” brands are beco-
“Never Gonna Give You Up” coaches ming the more and more common,
jackets. thanks in large part to the popularity of
brands like Dime, Palace, and Supreme;
Of course, like anything with an insa- Brain Dead stands out as a label that’s
ne amount of hype, each piece sells out inspired by the culture, without devo-
almost immediately, and every single ting itself wholly to skateboarding.
item on the brand’s site is currently
sold out—yes, this includes the $20,000
2012 Toyota Prius. Worn on the backs
(and heads) of rappers like Travis Sco-
tt, you can bet this mysterious brand
isn’t going anywhere.

Method 41

4. Stampd 3. Supreme 2. Stussy
Stampd is a brand that may have There’s a lot of brands that, if not While Supreme has taken the mantle

been considered simply “streetwear,” included here, would cause a public as the biggest and most notorious
but now, it’s hard to isolate it to just outcry (perhaps there’s an omission American streetwear brand, it wouldn’t
that category. As one of the forerun- here that’s inspired that vitriol regard- have anything without the innovation
ners of the monochromatic stree- less). But not having Supreme on a list and foresight of Shawn Stussy. As ‘90s
twear aesthetic, the brand is host to a of the greatest American streetwear contemporaries like Mossimo came
variety of popular pieces, including its brands? That would be a travesty. and went, Stussy stayed the course,
sellout “Strapped Bomber,” biker-style with the brand’s earlier days focusing
jeans, and longline, baseball-like tailed It’s not the originator of the style, on keeping tight control on product—
shirting. It’s one of the faces of the but when you’re trying to define what utilizing a retail mentality that’s akin
L.A. fashion boom that’s hosted names a streetwear brand is (and what it could to Supreme’s current model. As the
like John Elliott, and with a recent be), NYC’s Supreme is the template. brand grew slowly over the decades, it
shoutout as one of GQ’s “Best New The brand makes sellout collections became arguably the definition of what
Menswear Designers in America” (and season after season, each with new a streetwear brand can become—while
the accompanying Gap collaboration ideas or reworked concepts that pay still maintaining its roots. Now with
collection) Chris Stamp’s darker aesthe- homage to everything from politics smartly positioned collaborations with
tic is receiving the nationwide attention to high and low art. Outside of Nike shops like Très Bien and Dover Street
it deserves. With a rapidly evolving lu- and Jordan, it’s a brand that’s almost Market, the once cult streetwear brand
xury-meets-streetwear style, it wouldn’t single-handedly created and fostered has broadened its appeal to some of
be shocking to see the brand stretch the online reselling culture that’s so high fashion’s biggest retailers. Stussy’s
well beyond its humble L.A. roots in pervasive today. been had streetwear, well before it was
the coming seasons. ever an industry. Don’t expect that to
As streetwear has infiltrated more change any time soon.
42 Method layers of the fashion industry, the box
logo is bigger than ever before…and
it’s only getting bigger. That’s not even
mentioning the number of lines and
labels that have spun off from those
who have been apart of the Supreme
machine since its start in 1994. Love
them or hate them, Supreme’s here to
stay—get used to it.

Top Streetwear Brand

1. Polo Ralph Lauren doubt that—at some point—almost all
The odd man out. The exception of the brands that are (and aren’t) on
this list have tried to emulate Lauren’s
to prove the rule. Is Polo a streetwear designs at some point throughout their
label by design? Absolutely not. But has respective histories. Sure, Polo was
it become one? We’d like to think so. always meant to be a sporty offshoot
of its designer’s runway line; but when
Starting with the cult-like devotion you have cats like Rack-Lo making
to the label in the ‘90s, Polo and it’s Lo a “sport” out of getting their hands
Head disciples brought Ralph Lau- on the gear to look incredible in the
ren’s luxury onto the streets, making streets, it’s hard not to consider the
it not just a signifier of affluence and label as one of streetwear’s all time
wealth, but also an early predecessor to greatest brands.
the combination of high fashion and
streetwear that is impossible not to see
today. As Kanye West’s infamous “IT
AIN’T RALPH THO” rang out across
the country via Sway’s morning show, it
reminded us all that Lauren’s signature
ability lies in creating—not just a line—
but a lifestyle of products. There’s no

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Method 45

FASHION

FORWARD

MULTO INGULVITURO, NIRITUS TASDACTO ADE AUDE-
TRAE AD CATUS COENA NONSULL ESILINIMUR A O US
RECI PRA LOREM MORE SPACE LINE.

ANAHEIM, United States — When feeling lost in the
streetwear fashion world it’s hard knowing where to turn
to in order to cop the best duds. Thankully Anaheim local,
Joshua Williams, is making an effert in order to push the
meaning of what being fashion forward really means.

Many individuals see streetwear as layering, distress level,
and tone of garnments; but Josh’s vision pushes further than
that by putting a bigger emphases on jewelry and how it ac-
cents the body with his jewelry company ‘FIRM’. “Clothing
can only go so far; but the jewels are what make someones
style unique.” There is nothing that brings a smile to our
face like a pretty ring, a jangly necklace, or some sparkly
earrings. Big or small, real or fake, understated or over-the-
top, jewelry lifts the spirits. It also lifts a look. Colorful beads
or chandelier earrings could be just the thing to make an
ordinary outfit outstanding. necklace
Whether fancy or costume, nothing can add oomph to your
wardrobe like jewelry. Here are our tips for making sure your

46 Method

bling always looks its best. “Clothing can only
There is nothing that brings a smile go so far; but the
to our face like a pretty ring, a jangly jewels are what
necklace, or some sparkly earrings. Big
or small, real or fake, understated or ple, means you should think minimal reflection of your style spirit. Some
over-the-top, jewelry lifts the spirits. with your necklaces and earrings. people can’t go out of the house wi-
It also lifts a look. Colorful beads or Tone it down when your clothes have a thout loading up necklaces, while for
chandelier earrings could be just the lot going on. A ruffle-front blouse can others simple studs will do. Some wo-
thing to make an look sweet with a thin chain in the mix, men prefer an armful of bangles, and
ordinary outfit outstanding. Read on but not with a big, ornate number. some load up on brooches. No matter
for tips on how to best use jewelry to You don’t have to spend a lot on your your preference, bits of baubles are
your fashion advantage. baubles. Costume jewelry adds pizzazz. all about adding joy to your look - so
Beware of anything too cheap, and don’t stress, have fun with it.
There is nothing that brings a smile avoid pieces that are just poor imita-
to our face like a pretty ring, a jangly tions of the real deal. Keep it chic. In some instances,
necklace, or some sparkly earrings. Big loading up on the sparklies is an exci-
or small, real or fake, understated or Keep it chic. In some instances, ting way to accent. But know when to
over-the-top, jewelry lifts the spirits. loading up on the sparklies is an exci- stop. An armful of bangles, for exam-
It also lifts a look. Colorful beads or ting way to accent. But know when to ple, means you should think minimal
chandelier earrings could be just the stop. An armful of bangles, for exam- with your necklaces and earrings.
thing to make an ple, means you should think minimal Tone it down when your clothes have
ordinary outfit outstanding. Read on with your necklaces and earrings. a lot going on. A ruffle-front blouse
for tips on how to best use jewelry to Tone it down when your clothes have a can look sweet with a thin chain in
your fashion advantage. lot going on. A ruffle-front blouse can the mix, but not with a big, ornate
look sweet with a thin chain in the mix, number.
While jewelry is a very personal but not with a big, ornate number. You don’t have to spend a lot on your
thing - gifts from your significant other, You don’t have to spend a lot on your baubles. Costume jewelry adds piz-
family heirlooms, purchases to mark baubles. Costume jewelry adds pizzazz. zazz. Beware of anything too cheap,
milestones - it can also be a reflection Beware of anything too cheap, and and avoid pieces that are just poor
of your style spirit. Some people can’t avoid pieces that are just poor imita- imitations of the real deal.
go out of the house without loading tions of the real deal.
up necklaces, while for others simple Keep it chic. In some instances,
studs will do. Some women prefer an While jewelry is a very personal loading up on the sparklies is an exci-
armful of bangles, and some load up thing - gifts from your significant ting way to accent. But know when to
on brooches. No matter your preferen- other, family heirlooms, purchases stop. An armful of bangles, for exam-
ce, bits of baubles are all about adding to mark milestones - it can also be a ple, means you should think minimal
joy to your look - so don’t stress, have
fun with it.

While jewelry is a very personal
thing - gifts from your significant other,
family heirlooms, purchases to mark
milestones - it can also be a reflection
of your style spirit. Some people can’t
go out of the house without loading
up necklaces, while for others simple
studs will do. Some women prefer an
armful of bangles, and some load up
on brooches. No matter your preferen-
ce, bits of baubles are all about adding
joy to your look - so don’t stress, have
fun with it.

Keep it chic. In some instances,
loading up on the sparklies is an exci-
ting way to accent. But know when to
stop. An armful of bangles, for exam-

Method 47

48 Method

Exspression
can be applied
to any mediam,

metals and
stones are my

canvas.

-Josh Williams

Method 49

REMOVEABLE NECKLACE
INSERTED HERE

50 Method