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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring the gorgeous Italian Riviera.

Wander through the picturesque Cinque Terre, tour the ancient and unspoiled villages of the Armea and Crosia Valleys or simply laze on the beach at Levanto: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within

colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of the Italian Riviera with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Italian Riviera:

- Over 20 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of the Italian Riviera, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and area plans show in detail the church of San Lorenzo, Porto Antico, the aquarium and Parco Durazzo Pallavicini in Genoa, plus Portofino Peninsula, Grotte di Toirano, Dolceacqua and more
- Colour photographs of the Italian Riviera's iconic colourful villages, medieval architecture, picturesque

harbours, stunning coastline and much more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Genoa - Il Centro Storico, Le Strade Nuove and beyond - and the

Riviera di Levante and the Riviera di Ponente
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the Riviera's spectacular landscape, parks and natural reserves, and coastline; the art and architecture of Liguria; the history of the region, including Genoa's Golden Age; and the festivals and events that take place throughout the year
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

transport, visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Italian Riviera is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the

most from your visit to Italian Riviera.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-20 01:43:07

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring the gorgeous Italian Riviera.

Wander through the picturesque Cinque Terre, tour the ancient and unspoiled villages of the Armea and Crosia Valleys or simply laze on the beach at Levanto: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within

colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of the Italian Riviera with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Italian Riviera:

- Over 20 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of the Italian Riviera, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and area plans show in detail the church of San Lorenzo, Porto Antico, the aquarium and Parco Durazzo Pallavicini in Genoa, plus Portofino Peninsula, Grotte di Toirano, Dolceacqua and more
- Colour photographs of the Italian Riviera's iconic colourful villages, medieval architecture, picturesque

harbours, stunning coastline and much more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Genoa - Il Centro Storico, Le Strade Nuove and beyond - and the

Riviera di Levante and the Riviera di Ponente
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the Riviera's spectacular landscape, parks and natural reserves, and coastline; the art and architecture of Liguria; the history of the region, including Genoa's Golden Age; and the festivals and events that take place throughout the year
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

transport, visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Italian Riviera is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the

most from your visit to Italian Riviera.

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL




THE ITALIAN


RIVIERA





























































001_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:50 am

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL




THE ITALIAN


RIVIERA





























































001_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:50 am

002-003_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 2 09/09/16 10:46 am

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL




THE ITALIAN



RIVIERA






























































002-003_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:46 am

Contents


How to Use
this Guide 6
Produced By Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy
Project Editor Emanuela Damiani
Editors Emanuela Damiani, Giovanna Morselli
Designers Silvana Ghioni, Alberto Ipsilanti, Modi Artistici
Contributors
Fabrizio Ardito, Sonia Cavicchioli,
Maurizia De Martin, Gianluigi Lanza
Photographer
Lucio Rossi
Illustrators
Andrea Barison, Gianluca Fiorani
Cartography
Roberto Capra, Luca Signorelli
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Publishing Managers Fay Franklin, Kate Poole
Senior Editor Marisa Renzullo
Translator Fiona Wild Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina,
Editor Emily Hatchwell Palazzo Spinola, Genoa
Consultant Leonie Loudon
Production Linda Dare
Printed and bound in China Introducing the
Italian Riviera
First American Edition, 2005
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Discovering the Italian
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014.
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2011, 2014, 2017 Riviera 10
Copyright © Mondadori Electra SpA 2003.
Published under exclusive licence by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Putting the Italian Riviera
English text copyright © Dorling Kindersley Limited 2004, 2017. on the Map 16
A Penguin Random House Company.
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or A Portrait of the Italian
transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright Riviera 18
owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. The Italian Riviera
A catolog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
Through the Year 32
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-4654-5732-5 The History of the Italian
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European Riviera 36
usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level






The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
The Ligurian Gothic church of Sant’Andrea
Front cover main image: Riomaggiore, one of the famous Cinque Terre villages in Levanto
Pastel coloured houses in the village of Manarola, Cinque Terre


004-005_Italian_Riviera_US.indd 4 21/10/2016 15:59

Genoa
Area by Area
Genoa at a Glance 50

Il Centro Storico 52
Le Strade Nuove 70

Further Afield 84
Genoa Street Finder 94

The Italian Riviera
Area by Area

The Italian Riviera at a The delightful scene at Paraggi, near Portofino
Glance 106
The Riviera Survival
The Riviera di Ponente 134 Guide
di Levante 108
Travellers’ Practical Information
Needs 206
Where to Stay 178 Travel Information
210
Where to Eat & Drink
184 General
Prized Ligurian Index 212
olive oil
Shopping 198
Phrase Book 223
Outdoor Activities 200
Road Map
The port of San Remo, a popular resort Entertainment 202 Inside back cover
town in the Italian Riviera



















Genoa’s
revamped
Porto Antico




004-005_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 5 09/09/16 10:49 am

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The detailed information and tips given in Riviera di Levante and the Riviera
this guide will help you to get the most out of di Ponente, respectively, using maps,
your visit to the Italian Riviera. Introducing the photographs and illustrations. Restaurant
Italian Riviera maps the region of Liguria and and hotel recommendations can be found
sets it in its historical and cultural context. in the section Travellers’ Needs, together
The section Genoa Area by Area describes the with information about shopping, outdoor
main sights in the regional capital. The Italian activities and entertainment. The Survival
Riviera Area by Area describes the sights and Guide has tips on everything from transport
resorts east and west of Genoa along the to making a telephone call.


Genoa Area by Area
Further Afield describes areas Detailed information for
The centre of Genoa has been outside the city centre. All each sight is presented in
divided into two sightseeing the sights are numbered and numerical order, making it
areas, each with its own chapter. plotted on an Area Map. easy to locate.


GENO A AREA B Y AREA  53
All pages relating IL CENTRO STORICO
to Genoa have The old heart of the city is grouped around in Piazza San Matteo and Palazzo Spinola on
the Porto Antico and is made up of a hilly
the other. The relationship between the old
red thumb tabs. network of small piazzas, alleys and staircases. town and the port has been a centuries-old
It is the largest medieval centre in Europe
problem, largely due to the lack of integration
and is exceptionally well preserved, despite
between the two, which was further compli-
persistent neglect in some parts. The area is cated in the 20th century by the building of
home to the cathedral of San Lorenzo and a flyover. A chance to improve the area and A locator map
the Palazzo Ducale, the seat of power for to re-establish links with the seafront was
centuries. Both public and private wealth taken in the 1990s: old buildings, such as the
has left its mark in the old town: Palazzo Teatro Carlo Felice, were restored, and new shows where you
San Giorgio and the Loggia dei Mercanti projects, including Renzo Piano’s port
on the one hand, the Doria family mansions buildings, are in relation to
Sights at a Glance lists the Sights at a Glance Theatres other areas of the
Historic Buildings
chapter’s sights by category: 0 Porta Soprana (or di Sant’Andrea) 6 Teatro Carlo Felice city centre.
q Casa di Colombo
Churches
o Loggia dei Mercanti
1 San Lorenzo pp56–7
Churches, Museums and See Street Finder, maps 5 & 6 Historic Streets and Piazzas 3 Il Gesù (or Sant’Ambrogio)
7 Santo Stefano
4 Piazza De Ferrari
9 Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
t Porto Antico pp64–5
Galleries, Historic Buildings, i Piazza Banchi e San Donato
in Carignano
s Piazza San Matteo
Museums and Galleries
r Santa Maria di Castello
a Santa Maria delle Vigne
Streets and Piazzas. 0 metres 0 yards 400 400 5 Accademia Ligustica di Belle Arti Palazzi
8 Museo Civico di Storia Naturale
2 Palazzo Ducale
Giacomo Doria
w Museo di Sant’Agostino u Palazzo San Giorgio
y Aquarium pp66–7
p Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria
Area Map
Darsena
72  GENO A AREA B Y AREA LE STR ADE NUOVE  73
Calata VIA A. GRAMSCI 1All the sights
Salumi
Ponte Calvi
Street-by-Street: Around Via Garibaldi Ponte Calata Rotonda V. DELLA MADDALENA
PIAZZA
Spinola San Giorgio LEPRE are numbered
When Via Garibaldi was laid out in the mid-16th century, Ponte STR AD A SOP RAE L EVATA ALDO M O R O V. SOZIGLIA
it was the first of the “new streets”, and was known as La Embriaco VIC. D. CASANA
Strada Nuova. The mansions lining the street are wonderfully PIAZZETTA DEL MOLO PORTA PIAZZA SCUOLE DELLE and located on
preserved, with sumptuous interiors, and often contain VIA V. TURATI VIA SAN LORENZO MATTEOTTI VIA B. BOSCO
exceptional decoration or fine art collections – the fruits of VICO MALATTI DEL MOLO PIAZZA De Ferrari V. VERNAZZA
V. CHIABRERA
shrewd collecting. Among the palazzi open to the public are PIAZZA VIA SAN BERNARDO VIA
Palazzo Doria-Tursi (the largest in the street), which still serves Locator Map CAVOUR DANTE V. CECCARDI VIA XX SETTEMBRE a map.
as the town hall, and Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Rosso, which PIAZZA DANTE
See Street Finder, maps 2, 5 & 6
house the Musei di Strada Nuova, the city’s largest art gallery. V. DI MASCHERONA GALLERIA V. DEGLI ARCHI VIA I. FRUGONI
Not far away is the first cathedral of Genoa, and the church of 4 Palazzo Doria Tursi Sarzano PASSO DEL COLLE C. COLOMBO CORSO PODESTÀ V. MARAGLIANO V. D. FIASELLA VIA CESAREA GRANELLO V. BRIGATA LIGURIA
Three times the length of the
San Siro – richly decorated in the 16th and 17th centuries. other mansions in via Garibaldi, CORSO M. QUADRIO VIA G. D'ANNUNZIO SALITA S. LEONARDO V.
Beyond Piazza Fontane Marose, Santissima Annunziata del this 16th-century palazzo has 3 Via Garibaldi V. DELLA MARINA V. EUGENIA RAVASCO VIA FIESCHI V. IPPOLITO D'ASTE
the attractive square at one end Vastato, Palazzo Reale, Palazzo an exquisite courtyard, with a Now pedestrianized, this PIAZZA VIA G. AESSI V. G. MACAGGI
street transports visitors
of Via Garibaldi, is the Edoardo Doria Pamphilj 5 . Palazzo Rosso to an arcaded loggia. back to the golden age CARIGNANO
double staircase leading up
Chiossone museum (see treasures such as portraits by of the Genoese aristocracy SALITA SASSI
This gallery here is home to
p74), which houses a rare Van Dyck and Genoese works in the 16th and 17th
The iconic fountain in front of Banca Carige in Piazza De Ferrari
collection of oriental art from the 16th to the centuries. The monumental For map symbols see back flap
façades loom high above
that was assembled in the 18th centuries. visitors walking beneath.
19th century.
Palazzo del Podestà
V I A S A N S I R O example of Genoese
façade is a delightful
0 metres 50 was begun in 1563. The
0 yards 50 V I A C A I R O L I Mannerism.
Palazzo Doria has a Street-by-Street Map
lovely Baroque façade Key
PIA ZZ A dating from 1563–67.
MERIDIANA Suggested route 2This gives a bird’s-eye view of the
heart of each sightseeing area.
V I A G A R I B A L D I
V I C O A N G E L I
7 San Siro V I A D E L L A M A D D A L E N A
PIA ZZ A
Genoa’s ancient cathedral probably dates V I A S A L V A G H I FONT ANE
from the 4th century. There are no traces M AROSE
of its origins, however, due to a fire that
destroyed it in the late 16th century. The
reconstruction was undertaken by the 76  GENO A AREA B Y AREA P ALAZZ O ROSSO  77
Theatine Order (see p80), which turned it PIA ZZ A D .
FERRO
into a temple, resplendent with marble
inlay and frescoes. Museo
5 Palazzo Rosso Chiossone VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
6 . Palazzo Bianco
The gallery in this house displays 13th– This palazzo, which owes its name to the reddish colour of its Ceiling frescoes by Practical Information
Via Garibaldi 18. Map 5 C2. Tel 010
18th-century European paintings. The exterior (rosso means red), is the last of the sumptuous mansions Gregorio De Ferrari 557 49 72. ∑ museidigenova.it
collection includes a large number of on Via Garibaldi, and one of the main noble residences in Genoa.
Genoese works, as well as some important Palazzo Carrega Cataldi in Room 28 were Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue,
the 1670s, then at the height of its power. The two main floors
that fell in 1942.
Spanish, French and Flemish paintings, such now houses the Chamber It was built by Pierantonio Corradi for the Brignole-Sale family in destroyed by bombs 9am–7pm Wed, Thu & Sat, 9am–
9pm Fri, 9:30am–7:30pm Sun;
as Venus and Mars by Rubens, shown here. of Commerce. 32 Nov–Mar: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Fri,
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90 were intended for the art collector brothers Gio Francesco and 9:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun.
Ridolfo, and their heirs. When the Duchess di Galliera, Maria
& =
Brignole-Sale De Ferrari, gave the palace to the city in 1874 31
she included its rich art collection. Palazzo Rosso was damaged 33
during World War II, but Franco Albini’s restoration in the 1950s 30 The Cook by Bernardo Strozzi
successfully recaptured the majesty of the original building. 29 Local artist Strozzi (1581–1644)
Stars indicate the sights Inside, the frescoes and gilt and stucco work are as much to 27 34 displays great virtuosity with his
brushwork in this canvas, inspired
be admired as the art. See pp78–9 for a detailed description
by Flemish models and the
of the exhibits.
that no visitor should miss. . Portraits by 28 naturalism of Caravaggio (Room 7).
Van Dyck
Fine portraits of the 35
Brignole-Sale family by
Van Dyck in Room 29
include this picture of 36 Rooms 38–43
Apartments of Gio.
Anton Giulio, which
pictures the 22-year- 37 7 Francesco Il
A suggested route for a walk covers sovereigns – a superb Brignole-Sale
old frozen in a pose
hitherto reserved for
the more interesting streets in affirmation of his 6 8
social status.
4
the area. 5 Alcova
This enchanting 18th-century room is
1 9 decorated with frescoes enclosed by
lavish amounts of gilt and stuccowork. It is
furnished with a large bridal bed (c.1780)
3 16 and features pastel portraits of the
Brignole-Sale family.
Gallery Guide
Genoa’s Major Sights 15 10 between 33 rooms on the two main
The main artworks are distributed
floors (an additional 19 rooms are on
3Museums and galleries have Entrance 2 11 the mezzanine and third floor). On the
first floor are works by Guido Reni and
Guercino, as well as works by Genoese
14 artists such as Bernardo Strozzi. On
the second floor, the magnificently
colour-coded floor plans to . Allegory of Spring by Key Italian and European 12 decorated rooms are a big attraction,
particularly the Sale delle Stagioni,
Gregorio De Ferrari
along with the portraits of Brignole-
art, XV–XVII centuries
help you to locate the most When Gregorio De Ferrari Portrait of a Young Man Genoese art, 13 Sale by Anthony Van Dyck. The gallery
painted this allegory (1686–7)
XVI–XVIII centuries
also has the finest library of art history
in the Sale delle Stagioni, he
used the scene in which by Albrecht Dürer Roman art, XVII century in Liguria, as well as an education
centre that organizes activities for
interesting exhibits. masterpiece of Baroque found in Room 13. It was produced Sale delle Stagioni children. The 2004 renovations restored
Venus seduces Mars. This
Flemish art, XVI century
This work, dated 1506, can be
the third-floor rooms to their former
“illusionism” was the fruit of
during Dürer’s second trip to Italy. In
the collaboration between abandoning the traditional sideways Rooms with allegories of the glory as the apartment of the director
human condition
De Ferrari and artists skilled in profile, the subject is brought into more of the civic museums, Caterina
perspective and stuccowork. direct contact with the onlooker. Non-exhibition space Marcenaro (1906–76).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90
006-007_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 6 21/10/16 12:53 pm

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA  109
THE RIVIERA DI
Introduction LEVANTE The Italian Riviera Area by Area
1The landscape, history Thoughts turn, inevitably, when considering this The Italian Riviera has been divided
part of the world, to the great poets who have lauded
it, including the romantic poets Percy Bysshe
Shelley and Lord Byron; there is even a gulf named
and character of each in their honour. These poets and other writers have celebrated the into two areas, each of which has a
enchantment of the Riviera di Levante, the gentleness of the climate,
the colourful flowers and the beautiful coves.
region is described This stunningly beautiful area genuinely on the beaches and the roads). But what separate chapter. The most interesting
may seem like high-season chaos to some,
deserves their praise. The often beautifully
here, showing how positioned coastal resorts and villages are is liveliness and fun to others. Largely in sights to visit are highlighted
truly delightful, the result of the combined response to the effects of increased develop-
ment, including pollution and erosion, nature
efforts of man and nature. The contrast
the area has between the sea and the steep mountains reserves, national parks and other protected
immediately behind adds to the fascination, areas have been founded both along the
which only increases as you head inland, coast (such as the Cinque Terre) and on a Regional Map.
developed over the into the jagged valleys and ravines where inland, and are a vital contribution to the
villages cling to hilltops.
conservation of this precious landscape.
The Riviera di Levante is home to a The way of life in the interior is a world
centuries and what number of chic resorts – including away from the bustling scene on the
Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and
coast. Steep valleys, formed by the rivers
Rapallo – once the haunt of European, Magra, Vara and Aveto, cut deep into
it offers to the and particularly English aristocrats, but the landscape and are carpeted with
dense forest. There is a serious problem
now frequented mainly by Italians.
Tourism has thrived in this area since the
of population decline in some areas (a
visitor today. 1800s, though this formidable success has problem common to all parts of the Italian
meant the arrival of mass tourism and, with
Apennines), but village communities do
it, inevitably, over- development in some
survive in the hinterland, dependent
areas and periods of overcrowding (both mostly on agriculture.
Each area can be
quickly identified
by its colour coding.
136  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA THE RIVIER A DI PONENTE  137
Exploring the Riviera di Ponente Green shutters and flower-filled balconies, a feature of Ligurian houses Regional Map
The two provincial capitals on the Riviera di Ponente are Boats in the harbour of the pretty medieval village of Camogli
Savona and Imperia. San Remo, with its grand Art Nouveau
architecture, is the main holiday resort. New developments 2This shows the road
have spoiled the coast closest to Genoa, but there are many
interesting places to visit elsewhere along the coast: these Alessandria
range from Noli, with its church of San Paragorio, one of the Rossiglione
key monuments of Ligurian Romanesque, and Albenga, Alba network and gives an
with its well-preserved historic centre and its Early Christian Acqui Terme
baptistry, to the splendid English gardens at Hanbury Campo Ligure
Botanical Gardens, close to the French border, and the Urbe illustrated overview of
nearby caves at Balzi Rossi, a fascinating prehistoric site. In Sassello
the hinterland, the delightful medieval village of Dolceacqua
is especially worth a visit, as is Triora, famous for a witch Dego Pontinvrea PA RCO N AT U R A L E the whole region. All the
trial held here at the end of the 16th century. The luxuriant Exotic plants in the interesting Hanbury Turin DEL BE I G UA
vegetation and mild climate make this part of the Ligurian Botanical Gardens Cairo Monte Beigua Genoa
1300m
coast a pleasure to explore. Montenotte Voltri
Millesimo L i g u r e Arenzano Pegli sights are numbered and
Carcare Cogoleto
ALBISOLA
Sights at a Glance SUPERIORE VARAZZE
1 Varazze y Andora k Ventimiglia Altare Celle Ligure there are also useful tips on
2 Parco Naturale u Cervo l Balzi Rossi Bormida ALBISSOLA MARINA
del Beigua i Pieve di Teco z Hanbury Botanical Gardens
3 Albisola Superiore o Imperia (pp158–61) (pp174–5) Bormida SAVONA Key getting around the area.
4 Albissola Marina p Dolcedo Calizzano Vado Ligure Motorway
5 Savona (pp140–43) a Triora A p p e n n i n o Quiliano Major road
6 Bergeggi s Taggia Bardineto BERGEGGI Minor road
7 Spotorno d Tour of the Armea and Crosia SPOTORNO Main railway
8 Noli Valleys (pp164–5) Monte BORGIO NOLI International border
9 Finale Ligure f San Remo Carmo 1389m VEREZZI
0 Borgio Verezzi g Pigna Ponte de Giustenice FINALE LIGURE Varigotti Regional border
q Pietra Ligure h Dolceacqua (pp170–71) Nava Erli PIETRA LIGURE Summit
w Loano j Bordighera GROTTE DI
e Grotte di Toirano Nava TOIRANO LOANO
(pp150–51) Monesi Borghetto
r Albenga (pp152–5) Realdo Borghetto Santo Spirito
d’Arroscia
t Alassio PIEVE DI TECO Villanova
d’Albenga
Arroscia Visitors’ Checklist boxes provide
Rezzo ALBENGA
TRIORA
Testico all the practical information that you
Merula ALASSIO
Cuneo
PIGNA Monte Ceppo Chiusavecchia Laigueglia
1629m Pontedassio will need.
DOLCEDO Impero
Baiardo Monte Merlo ANDORA
Apricale 1014m Montalto CERVO
Airole Perinaldo Ceriana Ligure IMPERIA Diano Fishing boats on the beach at Noli
ARMEA AND
DOLCEACQUA TOUR OF THE TAGGIA Porto Oneglia Marina Getting Around
between Genoa and Ventimiglia), and the SS1, or Via Aurelia (once a Roman road), which
Nice Vallecrosia Alta CROSIA VALLEYS Santo Stefano Maurizio The main communication routes along the Riviera di Ponente are the A10 (the motorway
Seborga
BALZI SAN REMO Bussana runs parallel to the motorway at sea level, passing by all the main towns. The roads leading
ROSSI Vecchia into the interior are narrow and twisting, although they do pass through very beautiful
HANBURY VENTIMIGLIA
BOTANICAL BORDIGHERA countryside. The A6 (the motorway from Savona to Turin), gives access to Altare, Carcare
GARDENS intercity trains connect Genoa and Ventimiglia, with up to 15 trains a day. It is also possible
and other towns located inland from the Riviera delle Palme. Regional, inter-regional and
0 kilometres 10 114  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA THE RIVIER A DI LE V ANTE  115
0 miles 10 to get around using coaches, particularly if heading inland; the provincial coach companies
operate a good network of services.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp182–3 and pp194–7
For map symbols see back flap 4 Portofino Peninsula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This headland extends for around 3 km (2 miles) out to sea Practical Information
and separates the Paradiso and Tigullio gulfs. The southern n Via Roma 35, 0185 269 024.
Genoa. Road Map D4. * 590.
part, hot and dry, has high cliffs that enclose gorgeous inlets Abbey of San Fruttuoso: Tel 0185
hidden in the Mediterranean maquis; on the northern side, 772 703. Open Mar, Apr & Oct:
woods of chestnut trees dominate. The small area is 10am–3:45pm daily; May–Sep:
extraordinarily rich botanically, and its favourable position has Nov & Dec: 10am–3:45pm Tue–
10am–5:45pm daily; Jan, Feb,
drawn human settlements since antiquity: Portus Delphini (the Sun (opening timings vary
bay was, and still is, known for its large dolphin population) depending on the weather).
was an important settlement in the Roman era. Today, the Closed 25 Dec. &
∑ traghettiportofino.it
The top sights are given peninsula is dotted with impossibly picturesque hamlets and A splendid view of the rocky coast close Paraggi ∑ navigazionegolfodei
villages, including the world-famous port and celebrity mecca
In Paraggi, a short distance from Portofino, multicoloured houses are
poeti.net
of Portofino. There are also magnificent walks to be done, as
gathered around a small sandy cove, with terraces rising up the mountain
to Portofino
3two or more pages. Historic well as all kinds of maritime sports, Camogli behind. Nowadays, the once-flourishing trades of fishing and olive- Transport
V Santa Margherita Ligure.
pressing have given way to tourism. The views from here are beautiful.
including some great diving.
@ Santa Margherita Ligure to
Portofino. g boats around the
Golfo del Tigullio and to Cinque
buildings are dissected to (see p112) Terre (Apr–Sep); 0185 284 670.
Santa Margherita
reveal their interiors. San Fruttuoso Ligure (see p113)
Paraggi
Bullet numbers refer Cristo degli Abissi Portofino Key Boat Routes
This bronze statue by Guido
to each sight’s position on Galletti was lowered into the sea
at San Fruttuoso in 1954, a symbol
of the attachment of the Ligurian
the area map and its place people to the sea. Every year, on
the last Sunday in July, garlands of
flowers are given to the statue in
memory of those who have lost
in the chapter. their lives at sea. Divers pay
homage to the statue at all times
of the year.
. San Fruttuoso
KEY A symbol of the Italian heritage and
conservation organization FAI, to which it
1 Punta di Portofino can be has belonged since 1983, San Fruttuoso is a
126  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA reached on foot. Beyond the THE RIVIER A DI LE V ANTE  127 . Portofino
delightful village with houses grouped around
16th-century Fortezza di San Giorgio, a Benedictine abbey, built by the Doria family The town, with its lovely harbour and rows of coloured
known as “Castle Brown”, is the in the 1200s. It is dominated by the church’s houses facing the piazzetta, is best viewed from the
The old centre is dominated
position and by the mountain range, which rises to a
and mausoleum of the Doria family. San
del Capo statue.
fortified fishing village, with rows centuries BC), with a mosaic lighthouse and the Madonnina octagonal bell tower. Alongside is the cloister 0 kilometres 50 headland opposite. The cove is sheltered both by its
of brightly painted houses on pavement and a small museum, 2 Fortezza di San Giorgio Fruttuoso is accessible only by boat or on foot: 0 miles 50 height of 600m (1,970 ft) and forms a 3 km (2 mile)
by the Castello, the most
important example of military
the slope down to the harbour. known as the Antiquarium. it is 30 minutes by boat from Camogli, for long cliff behind the town. While small, the port
Behind is a maze of narrow example, or 75 minutes’ walk from Portofino. still has space for 300 mooring berths.
architecture in the region.
alleys and vaulted staircases, + Castello For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp181–2 and pp191–4 Colourful houses in the quaint village of Portofino on the Ligurian coast
Built by the Pisans in the 13th
populated by Portovenere’s Tel 0187 791 106. Open 10:30am– century to counter a Genoese
famous cats. 5:30pm daily. Closed during events & fort at Portovenere, it was taken
At the tip of the headland by Genoa shortly afterwards,
in winter. &
is the striped church of San P Antiquarium del Varignano and was enlarged in the 15th
Pietro, built in 1277 in honour Le Grazie. Tel 0187 790 307. century. It is still in a remarkably
of the patron saint of fishermen. Open on request. The island of Palmaria, the largest in the Ligurian archipelago good state, with its pentagonal
The church in the pretty medieval village It incorporates elements of a tower and massive walls.
of Campiglia 6th­century, early Christian church some buildings in Portovenere, Assunta; and Villa Marigola, There is an archaeological
and has a small Romanesque was quarried here, which has which has lovely gardens. museum inside.
u Campiglia loggia, open to the sea. partially disfigured the island. Below the castle is the lovely
Palmaria is popular among the
(and sandy) Baia di Maralunga,
Also worth visiting is San
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 150. Lorenzo, a short walk up an locals, who visit for day trips, but s Lerici which is good for a swim.
V La Spezia. @ from La Spezia. alley from the harbour. This the island’s appeal cannot com­
n IAT Cinque Terre, 0187 770 900. La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 12,000. V
∑ campiglia.net and beautiful Romanesque church pete with that of the mainland. La Spezia. @ n Via Biaggini 6, 0187 + Castello and Museo
∑ tramontidicampiglia.it was built in the 12th century, The much smaller islands of 967 346. _ Festa di Sant’ Erasmo (Jul). Piazza San Giorgio. Tel 0187 969 042.
but reworked in the Gothic Tino and Tinetto lie in a military Open mid­Oct–mid­Mar: 10:30am–
This rural village, founded in and Renaissance eras. It has a zone. Access to Tino is allowed In the Middle Ages Lerici was a 12:30pm Tue–Fri; 10:30am–12:30pm, Detailed Information
the Middle Ages and occupying wonderfully rustic font inside. only on the 13th September, for major port, and enjoyed both 2:30–5:30pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
a precipitous position near the Further up the alley (it is a the Festa di San Venerio. There is commercial and strategic mid­Mar–Jun, Sep–mid­Oct:
coast only a short distance steep climb), visitors will reach a ruined 11th­century abbey, imp ortance. Today, it is a popular 10:30am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun;
from La Spezia, is fascinating the 16th­century castello. The church of San Pietro at Portovenere, built on the site of a chapel tourist town, but one that retains Jul–Aug: 10:30am–12:30pm, 4All the important towns
and magical. Built by the Genoese, this is a overlooking the sea where the hermit saint lived in a working community with a 6:30pm–midnight Tue–Sun.
Campiglia was built on an grandiose example of military solitude. The island lighthouse strong identity. Closed Mon. &
old mule road along the ridge architecture, and also offers o Palmaria, Tino guides ships into the gulf.
between Portovenere and fantastic views. It is linked to Tinetto is an inhospitable and other places to visit
Levanto, and it is still a great the town by a line of walls with and Tinetto rock, but the rich diversity of the
starting point for walks. The square towers. The remains of La Spezia. Road Map F5. g from sea bed make this a popular
most beautiful, and hardest, various medieval fortifications La Spezia or Portovenere for Isola diving area. The ruins of two
walk is along CAI (Italian Alpine are still visible around Palmaria, 0187 732 987. n IAT religious buildings on the island are described individually.
Club) path no. 11. This takes Portovenere. Portovenere, 0187 790 691. confirm the earliest known
visitors through the spectacular Le Grazie, along the winding Christian presence in the area
terrain of the Tramonti, a route north from Portovenere to Liguria’s only archipelago once (5th century). They are listed in order,
continuation of the Cinque Terre La Spezia, is another place of formed part of the headland
with terraces of vines, before a great beauty. Monte Muzzerone of Portovenere.
steep flight of 2,000 steps nearby is hugely popular among The largest island, Isola p La Spezia
descends down as far as the free­climbers. The village itself Palmaria, is divided from the See pp128–9. following the numbering
small beach of Punta del Persico: is home to the church of Santa mainland by just a narrow
the landscape open to the sea Maria delle Grazie (15th century) channel. It is covered in dense
is genuinely breathtaking. and the 16th­century monastery vegetation on one side, and has a San Terenzo The port of Lerici, dominated by an imposing castle
of the Olivetans. By the inlet of steep cliffs and caves on the La Spezia. Road Map F5. V La on the Regional Map.
i Portovenere Varignano, nearby, is a ruined other. In the past, Portor marble, Spezia. @ n Lerici, 0187 967 346. The Gulf of Poets
a valuable black stone used in
Roman villa (2nd to 1st
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 4,600. San Terenzo lies on the It was the Italian playwright Sem Benelli who first described the Gulf Within each town or city,
northern side of the Golfo della
of Lerici as the “Gulf of Poets” in 1919. It is an evocative and romantic
V La Spezia. @ n Piazza Bastreri 7, Spezia, overlooking the pretty epithet, and not inaccurate given the personalities who arrived here
0187 790 691. _ Festa della bay of Lerici. Once a small in the 19th and 20th centuries: including Percy Bysshe Shelley (who
Madonna Bianca (17 Aug). group of fishermen’s houses drowned at sea en route to La Spezia from Livorno, in 1822, and was
∑ portovenere.it and cremated at Viareggio) and his wife Mary (author of Frankenstein), you will find detailed
∑ prolocoportovenere.it clustered on the shore, San Lord Byron, DH Lawrence and Virginia
Terenzo was a favourite among
Portus Veneris (the port of certain 19th­century poets, Woolf. The gulf still has strong appeal today
and attracts artists and intellectuals, mainly
Venus) was praised for its including Percy Bysshe Shelley. Italians. As a consequence a “cultural park” information on important
beauty as far back as Roman Casa Magni, the last home has been established, called the Parco
times. Nowadays, its beauty and Shelley shared with his wife Culturale Golfo dei Poeti, joining similar
cachet even rival those Mary, is located nearby. Today, parks dedicated to Eugenio Montale, in the
of Portofino. the village is suffering from the Cinque Terre, and in the Val di Magra and buildings and other sights.
Lying at the base of the rocky effects of mass tourism. Sights Terra di Luni. For more information contact
cliff that fringes the western to visit include a castle on a the tourist office APT Cinque Terre­Golfo
side of the Golfo della Spezia, rocky promontory nearby; Percy Bysshe Shelley dei Poeti in La Spezia (see p207).
Portovenere resembles a typical The harbour at Portovenere, with its characteristic painted houses the church of Santa Maria
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp181–2 and pp191–4
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008-009_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 8 09/09/16 10:43 am

INTRODUCING

THE ITALIAN


RIVIERA





Discovering the Italian Riviera 10–15

Putting the Italian Riviera
on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of the
Italian Riviera 18–31
The Italian Riviera Through
the Year 32–35
The History of the
Italian Riviera 36–47








































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10  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A

DISCOVERING THE
ITALIAN RIVIERA

The following tours have been designed is a 14-day tour of the wonderfully scenic
to capture the highlights of Genoa, the Ligurian coast and its hinterland. Both
Riviera di Ponente, to the west, and the stretches of the Riviera are well con nected
Riviera di Levante, to the east. The first by train, the A10 and A12 motor ways and
itinerary outlined here is a two-day tour the slower SS1 road, which stretches to
of Liguria’s fascinating capital, Genoa. the coast from Balzi Rossi in the west and
Next, there is a seven-day tour, which as far as Sestri Levante in the east. Choose
includes visiting Genoa. This itinerary can a tour based on the time you have available,
be extended to ten days. Finally, there or just be inspired.


Via dell’Amore,
Cinque Terre
This 20-minute scenic Pentema Lago di
Brugneto
walk, known as the Torriglia
“Path of Love”, leads
from Manarola to
Riomaggiore, the
liveliest villages of Bormida Genoa
the Cinque Terre. Lavagna
Camogli Rapallo
San Fruttuoso
Ligurian
Noli Portofino
Sea
Grotte di Varigotti Sestri
Toirano Levante
Albenga Vara
Arroscia
Levanto
Monterosso
Impero
Alassio
A Week in the Riviera Vernazza Cinque Terre
Corniglia
Crosia Manarola Sarzana
Valley Armea Valley • Be charmed by the brightly Riomaggiore La Spezia
R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e
Dolceacqua Oneglia painted houses and boats at Portovenere
R i v i e r a d i P o n e n t e
Balzi Porto the fishing port of Camogli.
Rossi Maurizio
Hanbury San Remo Bussana • Walk through the fabled
Vecchia
Botanical Bordighera Via dell’Amore between
Gardens the villages of Manarola
and Riomaggiore in the
pictur esque Cinque Terre.
• Go swimming or take a walk
at sunset along the beach at
Levanto.
• Stand in the loggia of the
Hanbury Botanical
Gardens and soak up the
pretty view of the sea.
• Admire the collection of
paintings, ivories and
enamels at the Museo
Amedeo Lia in La Spezia.
• Stroll the seafront boulevard
Hanbury Botanical Gardens, Riviera di Ponente and try your hand at the
Around 11 km (7 miles) west of San Remo, close to the French Casino at San Remo.
border lies the famed Hanbury Botanical Gardens, where exotic
plants grow in the grounds of a charming 14th-century palazzo.
A 19th-century painting of a Ligurian village Before the Duel by Francesco Vinea (1845–1902)
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DISC OVERING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  11


Two Weeks in the Riviera

• Watch the world go • From the charming
by from a waterside bar square in central
at the lovely sheltered Albenga, take in the
0 kilometres 20 cove of Portofino. Roman Baptistry and
0 miles 20 • Gaze at the dazzling sea medieval Cathedral
view from the headland of San Michele.
church of San Pietro at • Tour the ancient and
beautiful Portovenere. unspoiled villages of the
• Take a boat ride to the Armea and Crosia
beachside Benedictine Valleys in the hinter-
abbey at San Fruttuoso. land of San Remo.
• Enter the fanciful • Follow in the steps of
under world of the French Impressionist
stalagmites, stalactites painter, Claude Monet,
and crystals in the in the pretty medieval
Pentema Lago di
Brugneto Grotte di Toirano. village of Dolceacqua.
Torriglia
Bormida Genoa Lavagna


Camogli Rapallo
San Fruttuoso
Ligurian
Noli Portofino
Sea
Grotte di Varigotti Sestri
Toirano Levante
Albenga Vara
Arroscia
Key Levanto
Monterosso
Alassio A Week in the Riviera R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e
Impero
Vernazza Cinque Terre
Two Weeks in the Riviera Corniglia
Crosia Manarola Sarzana
Valley Armea Valley Riomaggiore La Spezia
R i v i e r a d i P o n e n t e
Dolceacqua Oneglia Portovenere
Balzi Porto
Rossi Maurizio
Hanbury San Remo Bussana
Vecchia
Botanical Bordighera
Gardens






Portofino, Riviera
di Levante
Nestled in a protected
inlet, surrounded by lush
cypress- and olive-clad
slopes is the beautiful
Ligurian town of Portofino.




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12  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Two Days in Genoa

Genoa is a rewarding city to
explore. Both the modern port
area and the historic centre
on the steep slopes above
can be covered on foot.
• Arriving Genoa’s Cristoforo
Colombo Airport is 6 km
(4 miles) west of the city and
a 25­minute bus ride to the
town centre.


Day 1 The pedestrianized Via Garibaldi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Genoa
Morning Start the day at Via
Garibaldi (p74) in order to explore caruggi (alleyways), and browse A Week in the Riviera
all the marvellous palazzi (all the authentic little shops. Take the
closed Mon). Devote three hours train from Genoa to Nervi (p93). • Airports Arrive and depart
to see the collection of paintings, Finish the day with a sunset stroll from Genoa Airport.
including portraits by Van Dyck along the 2 km (1 mile) long • Transport There are good
and Dürer, and the splendid Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, train and bus connections,
decoration of the Palazzo Rosso followed by a quiet dinner. but for the extended ten­
(pp76–9). Do not miss the day tour you will need a
Genoese and Flemish masters in Day 2 car. Use the train for the
the Galleria di Palazzo Bianco Morning Spend the morning at Cinque Terre.
(p75), and the magnificent court­ Porto Antico (pp64–5). Take the lift
yard of the Palazzo Doria-Tursi at II Bigo (p64) to enjoy panoramic • Booking ahead Make sure
(p75). Admire the richly decorated, views, then move on to the accommodation in the
marble interiors of the church of inter esting Aquarium (pp66–7) Cinque Terre is booked well
San Siro (p80). Pause for coffee to see hummingbirds, penguins in advance.
at Café Klainguti (p188) in Piazza and shark tanks. Do not miss the
Soziglia, a favourite haunt of the butterflies and chameleons of the
composer Verdi. Biosfera (p65). Visitors with children Day 1
should head for the La Città dei Choose a day from the two-day
Afternoon Head towards the Bambini (closed Mon, p65). For city itinerary.
sea to see the lavish 18th­cen­ lunch try focaccia, for which the
tury rooms of the Palazzo Reale city is famous, and then return to Day 2
(closed Mon, p81), and to learn the city centre. Camogli and Rapallo to
about the history of mari time Sestri Levante
Genoa at the Galata Museo del Afternoon From Piazza Matteotti Stroll through the alleyways
Mare (closed Mon, p82). On your (pp54–5) view the sculptures in the of the typical, tall houses at
way, explore the warren of Museo di Sant’Agostino (p61), Camogli (pp112–13). Continue
walk past the Porta Soprana (p60) on to Rapallo (p113) where you
and the Casa di Colombo (p60), can board a boat, which will take
the supposed birthplace of around 30 minutes to Portofino
Christopher Colombus, to Piazza (p115), a favourite of the jet­
De Ferrari, home of the renowned setters. Next, take to the water
Teatro Carlo Felice (p59). See the again to reach the delightful
extravagantly Baroque interior of Benedictine abbey of San
the church of Il Gesù (p58), Fruttuoso (p114). Return to
and stop for refreshments in the Rapallo by boat and continue
Palazzo Ducale (p58). If time allows, on to the lively resort of
browse the shops and exhibitions Sestri Levante (p120) for
on display there. The striped the night.
cathedral of San Lorenzo (pp56–7)
has plenty of architec tural appeal To extend your trip…
as well as sacred treasures in its Take the Casella bus
atmospheric Museo del Tesoro (p92) and enjoy the lovely
(p57). End the day watching an mountain scenery. Spend the
The sriking structure of II Bigo, inspired by evening performance at the night in Camogli (pp112–13).
the masts of a ship, Genoa Teatro Carlo Felice (book ahead).
For practical information on travelling around the Italian Riviera, see pp206–11



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DISC OVERING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  13


Day 3 Love”) between Manarola and
Sestri Levante and Levanto Riomaggiore. There are plenty of
For the best view of the two bays restaurants with a view here. Try
at Sestri Levante (p120) – the the local schiacchetrá wine at
sandy Baia delle Favole, loved any of these restaurants. Return
by Hans Christian Andersen, to Levanto if you are travelling
and the more intimate Baia del by car, or continue on to La
Silenzio – head for the 1920s Spezia (pp128–9).
Grand Hotel dei Castelli. After­
wards, spend some time on the To extend your trip…
beach or continue on to another Walk or cycle the Strada
excellent beach at Levanto dei Santuari (p123), high
(p121). End the day exploring above the terraces of olives
the Ligurian Gothic church of and vines, with spectacular
Sant’ Andrea, with white marble views of the coast.
and green serpentine stripes. Church of San Pietro at Portovenere,
Riviera di Levante
Day 5
La Spezia and Portovenere Romanesque church of San
to Noli Paragorio before moving on to
Experience bustling city life at La the Grotte di Toirano (pp150–51).
Spezia (pp128–9). Explore its little Take time out to appreciate the
gem of a museum, the Museo caverns of stalagmites, stalactites
Amedeo Lia (p128), which is full and crystal formations. Next,
of paintings, miniatures and continue on to the historic city
enamels. Next, stop at the of Albenga (pp152–5) where the
important naval museum, the prime sights are Piazza dei Leoni,
Museo Tecnico Navale (p128). the Roman Baptistry (p155) and
From here, a narrow, winding the Cathedral of San Michele
road leads to the beauty spot of (p154) with its fine bell tower.
Portovenere (p126). Walk to the Stop at San Remo (p168) for the
striped church of San Pietro on night; you may wish to try your
Boats moored at the idyllic resort of the headland for beautiful views, luck at the Casino (p168).
Sestri Levante which the poets Byron and
Shelley enjoyed. Head back to To extend your trip…
Day 4 the motorway, bypass Genoa, Tour the ancient villages
Cinque Terre to La Spezia and spend the night in the of the Armea and Crosia
Board the train at Levanto to medieval town of Noli (p145). Valleys (pp164–5).
travel to the five villages of the There are train connections here.
Cinque Terre – Monterosso,
Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola Day 6 Day 7
and Riomaggiore (pp122–5). It is Grotte di Toirano and Dolceacqua, Hanbury
possible to explore all five villages Albenga to San Remo Botanical Gardens or
by rail. Be sure to walk the 2 km Start the day early in Noli Balzi Rossi
(1 mile) Via dell’Amore (“Path of (p145) with a visit to the lovely Wander through the old town
(La Pigna) and visit the water­
front at San Remo (p168). The
Casinò Municipale (p168)
is a wonderful example of
the many Art Nouveau villas
here. At the next stop,
Dolceacqua (pp170–71), follow
in the footsteps of Monet who
famously painted the Ponte
Vecchio. Try the local Rossese
wine here. Opt to finish the
tour with a visit to either the
beautiful Hanbury Botanical
Gardens (pp174–5) or the
nine caves and museum at the
prehistoric site of Balzi Rossi
(closed Mon, p173), which is
next to the French border,
Colourful Riomaggiore, one of the pretty villages of the Cinque Terre before returning to Genoa.




012-015_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 13 09/09/16 10:43 am

14  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


(pp112–13), head inland to the for the Cinque Terre (pp122–5).
resort of Rapallo (p113). Be sure The five villages of Monterosso,
to leave your car here. A boat Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola
ride from here takes around and Riomaggiore are con nected
30 minu tes to reach idyllic by rail and easily walkable
Portofino (pp115). Stop for a pathways. There are plenty of
waterfront lunch, then continue good seafood restaurants in
by boat round the headland to Riomaggiore. On the second
the abbey of San Fruttuoso day, opt to walk or cycle on
(p114), before return ing to the Strada dei Santuari (p123)
spend the night at Rapallo. from where colourful houses
clinging to the cliff can be seen.
Day 5 Stay both nights in the Cinque
Rapallo, Sestri Levante Terre or choose to drive from
and Levanto Levanto to La Spezia (pp128–9)
Promenade the palm­fringed for the second night.
Lungomare Vittorio Veneto at
Picturesque harbour at Portofino, with its Rapallo (p113) past the Castello, Day 8
colourful houses then visit the Museo del La Spezia
Merletto (closed Mon, p113) for Look up La Spezia’s (pp128–9)
Two Weeks in lovely examples of historic lace. maritime past in the Museo
the Riviera Have lunch in Sestri Levante Tecnico Navale (p128). Next,
(p120). Afterwards, take a stroll marvel at the exquisite collec­
• Airports Arrive and depart in the park at the Grand Hotel tion of paintings, miniatures
from Genoa airport. Castelli. Spend time on the fine and ivories in the attractive
• Transport A car is needed sandy beach or at the charming Museo Amedeo Lia (closed
for this tour. The distance harbour. Alternatively, end the Mon, p128). Drive the narrow
from Genoa to Balzi Rossi in day with a trip to Levanto road carefully, or opt to take
the west is 169 km (105 miles) (p121), which is an ideal place a bus to Portovenere (p126).
and from Genoa to La Spezia for surfing, windsurfing and Walk past the pink­ and yellow­
in the east is 113 km (70 miles). canoeing. hued houses to the church of
San Pietro (p126) for a breath­
• Booking ahead Remember
to book ahead for accom mo­ Day 6 and 7 taking view. Portovenere is a
dation in the Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre picturesque spot to stop for
Take the train from Levanto the night.
Day 1 and 2
Genoa
See the two-day city itinerary
on p12.
Day 3
Torriglia, Pentema and Lago
di Brugneto to Camogli
Before taking the road to the
coast, take time out for a trip
inland to the pretty Antola
mountains. After spending time
in Torriglia (p112), drive to the
sleepy stone village of Pentema
(p112), where time has stood
still. Next, head to the peaceful
environs of Lago del Brugneto
(p112). Enjoy a picnic by the lake
before returning through the
chestnut woods to Camogli
(pp112–13) for the night.
Day 4
Camogli, Portofino and San
Fruttuoso to Rapallo
After an early morning walk
round the harbour at Camogli The futuristic-looking Biosphere in the old harbor, Genoa
For practical information on travelling around the Italian Riviera, see pp206–11



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DISC OVERING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  15
























The bridge leading into the medieval village of Dolceacqua
Day 9 Leoni (p153). The sandy beach afternoon catch here before
Sarzana to Noli at Alassio (p156), will beckon, setting off for dolphin- and
Head inland for the town of but leave some time for the whale-watching. Call in at
Sarzana (pp132–3) and soak up Art Nouveau villas and the the artists’ colony of Bussana
its sophisticated atmosphere. famous names cast in tiles in Vecchia (p168) en route to the
Visit the Cathedral and see the the Muretto (p156) opposite night’s stop at San Remo (p168)
imposing round towers of the Caffè Roma (p156). Take a stroll where you can enjoy
citadella. Famous for its antique on the beach in the evening. the nightlife.
market, shopping is an enticing
option here. Next, head west on Day 12 Day 13
the motorway towards Genoa Imperia and Bussana Vecchia San Remo and the Armea
for the Riviera di Ponente and to San Remo and Crosia Valleys
the town of Noli (p145), which Imperia is split into two parts, to Bordighera
still retains some of its medieval the newer Oneglia (pp158–9) Make an early start to see the
towers. Spend the evening and the older Porto Maurizio Cathedral of San Siro (p168),
visiting the fine Romanesque (pp160–61). In the latter, learn and the Russian Orthodox
church of San Paragorio (p145). all about life aboard a ship at the Church (p168) in San Remo,
Museo Navale Internazionale before travelling inland to the
Day 10 del Ponente Ligure (p160), while green hills. Pass the Armea and
Varigotti and Grotte di in Oneglia find out about the Crosia Valleys (pp164–5) 50 km
Toirano to Albenga history of olives in the Museo (31 miles) away, and admire
Drive a few miles down the coast dell’Olivo (p159). Watch the the Alpine views. Spend the
to Varigotti (p148) for a morning fishermen bring in their evening back on the coast
dip. See the ancient houses of in Bordighera (p169).
fishermen, before pressing on
to the Grotte di Toirano Day 14
(pp150–51), a remarkable karst Dolceacqua and Hanbury
cave system full of magical Botanical Gardens or
stalagmites, stalactites and Balzi Rossi
crystal formations mirrored in Be enchanted by the Ponte
pools. Continue on to Albenga Vecchio and Castello dei Doria
(pp152–5) for the night. at the next stop, Dolceacqua
(pp170–71). The last afternoon
Day 11 of the tour can either be spent
Albenga and Alassio wandering through the exotic
Spend the morning in the city plants at the Hanbury
of Albenga (pp152–5), admiring Botanical Gardens (pp174–5)
the 5th-century Baptistry or exploring the interesting
(p155) and the medieval caves and museum of Balzi
houses lining the long Via The intriguing artists’ colony of Bussana Rossi (closed Mon, p173).
Bernardo Ricci and Piazza dei Vecchia, San Remo Return to Genoa.




012-015_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 15 09/09/16 10:43 am

16  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A
AUSTRIA
Strengen
Altdorf Prutz
Putting the Italian Riviera on the Map
Chur Davos
Liguria covers 5,418 sq km (2,090 sq miles) and is the second smallest SWITZERLAND Scuol Brunico
region in Italy. Administratively, it is divided into four provinces: Spondigna Bressanone
from west to east, these are Imperia, Savona, Genoa and La Bernardino Merano
San
Spezia. Squeezed between the Mediterranean and the Bormio Bolzano
peaks of the Maritime Alps and the Apennines, Liguria’s Chiavenna Canazei
population is concentrated along the stunning coastal Locarno Cles
strip of the Riviera di Levante Colico Sondrio Edolo TRENTINO- Predazzo
and the Riviera di Ponente. Verbania ALTO ADIGE
The strip is known collectively Aosta Trento Feltre
as the Italian Riviera – a term Como Lecco Darfo del Gardo
Riva
VALLE
commonly used to describe D’AOSTA Bergamo Rovereto
the region of Liguria as a whole. Biella Bassano
del Grappa
Monza Iseo
Ivrea
Novara Milano Brescia Trieste
Grenoble Modane (Milan) Vicenza
LOMBARDIA Verona Mestre
Susa
Lodi
Pavia VENETO Padova Venezia
Torino (Turin) (Padua) (Venice) CROATIA
Briançon PIEMONTE Cremona Mantova Poreč
Asti Chioggia
Piacenza Ostiglia
Carmagnola Alessandria Tortona Rovigo
Gap Rovinj
Alba Ferrara Mesola Pula
Marsaglia Parma
Barcelonnette Argentera Reggio Modena
Cuneo LIGURIA nell’Emilia Comacchio
FRANCE Mondovi Carcare
Genova EMILIA-
Digne- Calizzano Savona (Genoa) Pontremoli ROMAGNA Bologna Alfonsine
les-Bains Ravenna Adr iatic
Entrevaux Tende Pievepelago Imola Faenza Sea
Albenga
La Spezia Forlì
Massa Cesena
Imperia
Escragnolles Nice Sanremo Pistoia Rimini
Monaco Lucca Prato
Pesaro
Antibes Firenze San Marino
Cannes Pisa (Florence) Fano
Fréjus Ligur ian Cascina Urbino
Sea Isola di Livorno
Gorgona Certaldo Sansepolcro Croatia,
Cagli MARCHE Greece
Toulon A Volterra TOSCANA Arezzo Ancona
Castello
r Città di
Cecina
Siena
c
i Cortona
Macerata Civitanova Marche
p
Massa Sinalunga
e
l Marittima
Barcelona, Centuri a Castiglione Perugia Tolentino Porto
Tangier, Tunis g o Piombino Roccastrada del Lago San Giorgio
Follonica

Foligno
Isola Ascoli
Key d' Elba UMBRIA Piceno
Bastia Grosseto
Motorway Calvi L‘lle- T Todi
Rousse
Orvieto Spoleto Giulianova
o
Major road s c Teramo
Pineto
Railway line n
a
Corte Orbetello Terni
International border Porto o Viterbo ABRUZZO Pescara
Ferry route Cor sica Isola del Vetralla Civita Rieti
Giglio
Tarquinia Castellana L’Aquila
Chieti
Ajaccio
0 kilometres 75 Ghisonaccia T yr rhenian Civitavecchia LAZIO
0 miles 75 Sea Sulmona
Solenzara
Avezzano
Rome
Sardinia, Sicily Sardinia, Sicily
Key to Symbols see back flap
016-017_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 16 09/09/16 10:46 am

PUT TING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A ON THE M AP  17
AUSTRIA
Strengen
Altdorf Prutz
EUROPE NORWAY
Chur Davos SWEDEN
Scuol
SWITZERLAND Brunico Nor th
Spondigna Bressanone Sea DENMARK
San Merano UNITED
Bernardino Bolzano REP. OF KINGDOM
Bormio IRELAND NETHERLANDS POLAND
GERM AN Y
Chiavenna Canazei BELGIUM CZECH
Locarno Cles REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Colico TRENTINO- Predazzo AUSTRIA
Sondrio Edolo Atlantic FR ANCE SWITZ. HUNGARY
Verbania ALTO ADIGE Ocean SLOV. CROATIA ROMANIA
Trento Genoa BOSNIA
Aosta Feltre HERZ. SERBIA
Como Lecco Riva ITALY MONTEN. KOS.
Darfo MAC.
VALLE del Gardo PORTUGAL ALBANIA
D’AOSTA Biella Bergamo Rovereto Bassano SP AIN GREECE
Monza Iseo del Grappa
Ivrea
Novara Milano Brescia ALGERIA Trieste
Grenoble Modane (Milan) Vicenza
LOMBARDIA Verona Mestre
Susa
Lodi
Pavia VENETO Padova Venezia
Torino (Turin) (Padua) (Venice) CROATIA
Briançon PIEMONTE Cremona Mantova Poreč
Asti Chioggia
Piacenza Ostiglia
Carmagnola Alessandria Tortona Rovigo
Gap Rovinj
Alba Ferrara Mesola Pula
Marsaglia Parma
Barcelonnette Argentera Reggio Modena
Cuneo LIGURIA nell’Emilia Comacchio
FRANCE Mondovi Carcare
Genova EMILIA-
Digne- Calizzano Savona (Genoa) Pontremoli ROMAGNA Bologna Alfonsine
les-Bains Ravenna Adr iatic
Entrevaux Tende Pievepelago Imola Faenza Sea
Albenga
La Spezia Forlì
Massa Cesena
Imperia
Escragnolles Nice Sanremo Pistoia Rimini
Monaco Lucca Prato
Pesaro
Antibes Firenze San Marino
Cannes Pisa (Florence) Fano
Fréjus Ligur ian Cascina Urbino
Sea Isola di Livorno
Gorgona Certaldo Sansepolcro Croatia,
Cagli MARCHE Greece
Toulon A Volterra TOSCANA Arezzo Ancona
Castello
r Città di
Cecina
Siena
c
i Cortona
Macerata Civitanova Marche
p
Massa Sinalunga
e
l Marittima
Barcelona, Centuri a Castiglione Perugia Tolentino Porto
Tangier, Tunis g o Piombino Roccastrada del Lago San Giorgio
Follonica

Foligno
Isola UMBRIA Ascoli
d' Elba Piceno
Bastia
L‘lle- Grosseto
Calvi Rousse T Todi
Orvieto Spoleto Giulianova
o
s
Teramo
c
Pineto
a
n
Corte Orbetello Terni
Porto o Viterbo Pescara
Isola del ABRUZZO
Cor sica Giglio Vetralla Civita Rieti
Tarquinia Castellana L’Aquila
Chieti
Ajaccio Ghisonaccia T yr rhenian Civitavecchia LAZIO
Sea Sulmona
Solenzara
Avezzano
Rome
Sardinia, Sicily Sardinia, Sicily
016-017_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 17 09/09/16 10:46 am

018-021_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 18 09/09/16 10:43 am

INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  19

A PORTRAIT OF THE

ITALIAN RIVIERA


The blue water of one of the loveliest stretches of sea in Italy laps the coast,
with its rocks, maquis and pastel-coloured villages proud of their maritime
tradition. Just behind, hills that are often silver with olive trees rise steeply to
the Apennines, which separate Liguria from the other regions of northern Italy.

Bound to the north by alpine Piedmont, the Apennines begins, running first east
to the south by rol ling Tuscany and to the and then southwards. To the south of
east by the plains of the Po Valley, Liguria these mountains is the narrow strip of
is a world apart: no other Italian region has land where, over the course of millennia,
such a generous climate or mountainous the Ligurian civilization developed: the
landscape, nor one where the sea and the people were naturally more inclined to
mountains are in such close proximity – in turn to the sea and to the large islands
Liguria you are never more than 35 km of the Mediterranean than towards the
(22 miles) from the Mediterranean. This is peaks behind.
a region that was always more easily It would be wrong, however, to assume,
reached by sea than by land. when pausing to admire the waters of
The characteristics of Liguria derive Portofino, Genoa or Camogli, that a Liguria
from the geology that has shaped it. The of the hinterland does not exist. Reached
margins of the region are clear: the mass along steep roads, en route to the
of the Alps, partly handed over to France mountain passes that were once crucial
after World War II, lead as far as the staging posts on any journey northwards,
threshold of the Colle di Cadibona, which are fascinating places such as Dolceacqua,
marks the point where the long chain of beloved of Monet; Triora, known as the





























The spectacular rocky coast of the Cinque Terre, plunging into the sea
The church of San Pietro in Portovenere, perched on a natural promontory overlooking the sea



018-021_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 19 09/09/16 10:43 am

20  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A

The inhabitants of one valley
would almost certainly be suspicious
of the inhabitants of a nei gh bouring
one. Such complex relation ships are
still part of everyday life in Liguria. To
further complicate matters, there has
been a steady exodus of people from
the mountains towards the coast.
While agriculture in the interior is
in decline, tourism on the coast
is booming.
Demographically, Liguria is in deep
water. It has the lowest birth rate in Italy,
making it the lowest in Europe, and an
unusually aged population: 25 per cent
of Ligurians are over 65 years old. One
reason for this is the influx of retirees,
attracted by Liguria’s warm climate.
The picturesque seaside town of Camogli, one of the most
attractive resorts along the Ligurian coast
town of witches; or the villages of
the Val di Vara. These places are just as
Ligurian as the gentrified ports that are
popular with the jet set.

The People
The temperament of the Ligurian
people can be said to vary according to
the character of the coast, being generally
more open and sunny on the beach-rich Retirees immersed in playing bocce, the local version of the French
Riviera di Ponente, and more terse and boules (game played with metal balls)
reserved along the rockier Riviera di
Levante. The writer Guido Piovene noted Tourism
in his Viaggio in Italia, published in the Tourism started in the Italian Riviera in the
1960s, that “The greatest diversity can 19th century, and it is now the dominant
be obser ved going from Genoa to the industry. The main attraction is, of course,
west. Here, the air of Provence breathes the coast, with its 300 km (186 miles) of
on a Liguria that is closed, laconic… sandy or pebbly beaches, cliffs and small
and lacking imagination, creating a islands. Many of the towns, and even the
loquacious, colourful Liguria of storytellers, old fishing villages, from San Remo to
a halfway link between the Genoese Portovenere, are now devoted to tourism.
and the Marseillais”. While in the most famous
There is also a third Liguria – seaside resorts there are
that of the mountainous grand hotels built for the
region behind the coast. visiting ari stocrats of the
Traditionally, the people of 19th century, many of
the mountains mistrusted not the old fishing villages
just the coastal folk but also the A typical gozzo, have a harbour rather
people living in the valleys. fishing dinghy than a beach, and are




018-021_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 20 09/09/16 10:43 am

A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  21

























Fishermen, here on the beach at Spotorno, pulling nets in at dawn
riddled with the characteristic carruggi (the ports of the Levante. Visitors who have had
narrow alleys found in every medieval their fill of the wealth, ostentation or over-
centro storico in Liguria), which rise and fall deve lopment of the coast, should head
between tall, pastel-coloured houses. into Liguria’s interior, which is attracting
Genoa, the Ligurian capital, regally growing
positioned at the centre of the region, is numbers.
not easy to get to know. There is an abrupt People come
change between the open spaces of the looking for an
port and the narrow alleys of the town. unspoiled land
The former has been the subject of a major of woods,
but gra dual regeneration, which has seen rivers, lakes and
the creation of, among other things, the peaks, where
futuristic Aquarium, considered to be one towns show
of the finest in Europe. However, Mediter- another aspect
ranean soul can still be found in the streets of the history
of Genoa’s historic centre, still reminiscent and people of Ligurian olives, used for some of Italy’s
of those distant centuries when the galleys Liguria. finest oils
of “Genoa The Proud” were familiar in all the
The Cuisine
Getting to know the Italian Riviera also
involves trying the local food and wine,
which is offered in most local restaurants.
Liguria’s olive oil can compete with Italy’s
best, the fish and seafood are superb, and
there are all sorts of other traditional foods,
including delicious snacks, known
as stuzzichini.
The food is just one facet of a region
which, even to the most ardent fans of
Charming view of Apricale, in the hinterland behind the provincial the sea, should not be regarded as merely
capital of Imperia a seaside resort.




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22  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


The Landscape of Liguria

Most visitors to Liguria are focused only on one thing –
the beaches, luxuriant vegetation and rocky slopes of the
Riviera. Behind the coast, on the fertile plains and valleys,
agriculture takes over – in particular, the age-old cultivation
of olives and a burgeoning modern horticultural industry.
Step further back and visitors can discover the mountains,
with their isolated villages and silent forests (Liguria is the
most forested region in Italy). In winter, snow whitens the
peaks just a short distance from the Mediterranean. The rocky coast of Portovenere















The Coast The Coastal Plains
Liguria’s coastline would measure 440 km Although the plains occupy just one per cent
(274 miles) if a line were traced following the of the region, they have always performed an
shore into every inlet and cove. To the west, the important function. The climate here is
beaches are wider and the coastline gentler, temperate and favourable for agriculture, and
while to the east, the landscape is characterized the soil is very fertile. As a result, the plains are
by cliffs and mountains reaching down to the crammed with cultivated fields, as well as the
shore, making beaches a rarity. The Ligurian Sea industries that cannot be located in rockier
is the richest area for cetaceans (whales and areas. This is the most densely populated part of
dolphins) in the Mediterranean. Liguria: despite large areas of natural landscape,
the plains have an average population of more
than 300 inhabitants per square kilometre.
Dolphins can be seen in the Ligurian Sea, especially
in the sea off the coast of the Cinque Terre. Sperm
whales and the occasional marine turtle can also be Mimosa, originally from
seen. It is not unusual to see groups of these friendly southwestern Australia,
creatures following the wash behind brightens up many parks
ferry boats, emerging from the and gardens with its
water and performing bright yellow flowers
somersaults. in spring.







Glasshouses are a
The palm tree (“la palma” common feature of
in Italian) was imported the plains. The cultiva­
from North Africa and is tion of vegetables,
now so common on the Riviera fruit and flowers is
that it has given its name to a one of Liguria’s prime
stretch of the Riviera di Ponente. economic activities.





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A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  23



Wildlife in Liguria
The natural habitats of Liguria are very varied and the
animal species that live there are equally diverse. In
addition to the rich marine life, including whales in
the waters extending southwards towards Corsica,
there are many species of seabird (cormorants,
shearwaters, gannets and terns). The hills are home Roe deer, found in
to small mammals such as the fox, marten, badger and the hills
wild boar. In some areas roe deer and fallow deer have
been reintroduced. At higher altitudes, in a gradual recolonization
Seagulls are never far away of the Apennine mountains, wolves have returned.
















The Hills The Mountains
Thirty per cent of Liguria consists of hill slopes, The Maritime Alps, to the west, and the
where the economy is based on the cultivation Apennines, to the east, account for the largest
of olives (producing high-quality olive oil), chunk of Ligurian territory: as much as 69 per
ornamental plants, flowers and vines. In places cent of the region is more than 1,000m (3,281 ft)
where nothing is grown, the natural shrubby high. The proximity of the mountains to the
vegetation of the Mediterranean (known as Mediterranean has resulted in some botanically
maquis or macchia) dominates, followed, at fascinating close juxtapositions of alpine and
higher altitudes, by pine woods and woods coastal plant and flower species. At the highest
of chestnut and oak. altitudes, conifers such as Scotch pine, silver fir,
Norway spruce and larch predominate.
Olives are
cultivated on hill
terraces, often
overlooking the sea, as in Edelweiss, a lovely
the area of the Cinque alpine flower, is found at
Terre. The best-quality higher altitudes. Look out
olive variety is the for it during the flowering
taggiasca, which yields a period, from July to August.
fine extra virgin olive oil.






The wolf has been gradually
The fox, like other moving up through the
small mammals, is a Apennines and has recently
constant presence in appeared in the Parco
hillside woods. Foxes can Naturale Regionale
also be seen searching for dell’Aveto, close to
food in areas populated the border with
by humans. Emilia-Romagna.





022-023_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 23 09/09/16 10:46 am

24  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Parks and Nature Reserves

The wildest and most unspoiled natural areas of Liguria are
found, not surprisingly, in the hinterland. Here, a crisis in
upland agriculture has seen the abandonment of mountain
villages, with many vineyards and olive groves left to lie
fallow. Plants and wildlife are the main beneficiaries of such
depopulation. Liguria’s protected areas make up around 12
per cent of the region’s land area and include six national
parks, as well as nature reserves, mostly in the mountains.
Each has a different character, from the Alpine valleys on The Parco del Finalese
the border with Piedmont, to the hills close to Tuscany. On (p148), above Finale
the coast, after decades of tourist development, a series of Ligure, has fascinating
karst formations.
marine and coastal reserves aims to conserve the last
remaining unspoiled fragments of the Ligurian coast.
Piana
Crixia
The Alta Via dei
Monti Liguri Beigua
Created around a series Fiume Bormida
of mule tracks which
criss-cross the region and Varazze
traverse more than one
regional park, the Alta Savona
Via dei Monti Liguri (see
p201) is a protected trail
which extends the length of
Liguria. It can be explored
The Alta Via dei Monti Liguri, either on foot or, for the Finalese
offering stunning walks more energetic, by bicycle. Finale Ligure
and views
Alpi
Liguri Albenga
Isola
Gallinara



Imperia

Isola Gallinara
Ventimiglia (see p155), and
Bergeggi (see pp144–
5), already regional
nature reserves,
0 kilometres 20 are set to become
marine reserves.
0 miles 20 The Parco Naturale de Beigua (see pp138–
9) is a park of high mountains. Its territory
Key includes Monte Beigua and a series of
National Park other peaks which are only 6 km (4 miles)
Regional Nature Reserve from the coast and yet exceed 1,000 m
(3,280 ft) in height. Towards the border
Other protected area with Piedmont, the vegetation is typically
Marine reserve alpine, while lower down, pines and
Alta Via dei Monti Liguri larches give way to chestnut forest and
then to Mediterranean maquis.






024-025_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 24 09/09/16 10:46 am

A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  25


The Val d’Aveto is protected
by the park of the same name (see
pp118–19). It includes the highest
peaks in the Ligurian Apennines and
valleys where upland agriculture was
introduced by monks during the
Middle Ages. The park encompasses
the forest reserve of Le Lame, which
has numerous (originally glacial)
lakes and teems with wildlife.
Along the rocky ridge separating the Alta Valle Scrivia
from the Val Trebbia is the Parco dell’Antola (see p112): all
sorts of excursions are possible here,
including a complete circuit around
Antola the artificial lake of Brugneto.

Lago del
Brugneto Santo Stefano
Torriglia d’Aveto
Aveto
Fiume Trebbia

Genoa
Area Marina
di Portofino
Portofino

Promontori E
Isole
del Levante
Ceparana
Cinque
The Parco di Portofino (see pp114–15), Terre
a coastal conservation area since 1935, La Spezia Fiume Magra
is exceptionally pretty. The natural Area Marina
beauty of the promontory (Monte di Cinque Terre Montemarcello
Portofino), a meeting point between Magra
the Mediterranean and the Apennines,
is not confined to dry land. In 1999, a
marine reserve was created to protect
the sea beds.
The Parco Naturale Regionale
di Montemarcello-Magra
(see p130) includes the estuary
of the River Magra, on the
border with Tuscany, and the
eastern side of the Gulf of
La Spezia. From the summit
of the promontory the view
stretches from the Alps to
Portovenere. The rich flora of the
park includes Mediterranean maquis
and flowering plants such as the
cistus (shown here).
The most famous protected area in the region is the Parco
Nazionale delle Cinque Terre (see pp122–5), now also a World
Heritage site. Crammed into narrow inlets between cliffs that
plunge into the sea, the five towns of the Cinque Terre are an
eloquent expression of the ancient relationship between humans
and their environment. The towns look up to sculpted terraces
carved into the steep slopes between the sea and the mountains.






024-025_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 25 09/09/16 10:46 am

26  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


The Italian Riviera Coastline

The density of the population along the Italian Riviera’s coast
is due largely to the fact that, unlike the marshy shores The shores around Savona
of Tuscany, Liguria’s often rocky shores are eminently are generally low-lying. From
habitable and, historically, easy to defend. The beaches Albissola, Celle Ligure and
Varazze, pebbly and sandy
are often more pebbly than sandy, with pebbles at San beaches alternate as far as
Remo and Rapallo, for example, but sugar-fine sand at Arenzano, at the western edge
of the sprawling city of Genoa.
Alassio and Lerici. Many beaches show a Blue Flag and
have gorgeous, clear waters.
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
River




Fiume Bormida

The coast is flattish around Bordighera
(vast fields of cultivated flowers lie nearby).
Beyond lies Capo Nero and the huge sheltered Varazze
bay of the Golfo di San Remo. Savona
Close to the French border the first stretch
of coast is steep and rocky, and includes the
remarkable Balzi Rossi. These famous cliffs
face the sea as far as Ventimiglia, where the Varigotti
rivers Roia and Nervia have carved out valleys. =
Pietra Ligure
Loano

Albenga
Riviera di Ponente
Alassio




Imperia
Ventimiglia
San Remo
Bordighera

Before reaching the sandy beaches of
Alassio, the coastal landscape alternates
between rocky stretches and shallow bays,
while inland lies the plain washed by the
River Centa. Coastal resorts follow in
succession – Albenga, Loano, Pietra Ligure
and Borgio Verezzi – as far as the cliffs of
Finale and Capo Noli.






026-027_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 26 09/09/16 10:46 am

A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  27



Within the province of La Spezia,
the coastline is rocky and
dramatic, with the road forced
through numerous tunnels. The
drama culminates in a vertiginous
20 km (12 mile) stretch of coast in
the famous Cinque Terre.
East of Greater Genoa, where steep
cliffs predominate, every scrap of level
ground has been terraced and cultivated
for centuries. Along here lies the lovely
fishing village of Bogliasco and the
stunning Camogli, which has a rich
seafaring tradition.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
Lago del At Rapallo the cliffs dip,
Brugneto only to rise again near Zoagli,
overlooking the Golfo del
Tigullio. The mouth of the
Entella torrent has created a
narrow plain around Chiavari.

Genoa
Nervi Rapallo
Recco
Camogli • Chiavari
Santa
Portofino Margherita
Ligure
Sestri
Levante
Moneglia Fiume Magra
Levanto
Monterosso
Vernazza Corniglia La Spezia
Manarola San Terenzo
Riomaggiore Lerici
Riviera di Levante
Portovenere

Isola Palmaria












Portovenere is the gateway to the Golfo della Spezia,
The Monte di Portofino is best with its indented and rocky shores on the west side, and
explored on foot, or by boat from gentler coastline, with the beaches of Lerici and Tellaro,
Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure, to the east. The long headland of Punta Bianca faces the
the two most exclusive and romantic plain formed by the River Magra, beyond which lies
towns on this stunning promontory. the border with Tuscany.






026-027_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 27 09/09/16 10:46 am

28  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Art in Liguria Civica (see p140), was one of the
first “Nordic” works to find favour.
Since the time of the Romans, Liguria has always been an Trade with Flanders and
important region, even a rich one from time to time, but Burgundy brought painters
it has never really been at the centre of events, whether (David, Provoost, Van Cleve)
to Genoa; their religious works
political, cultural or artistic. Of crucial significance artistically, are now found through out
however, was Liguria’s role as a major crossroads between the region.
the European mainland and the Mediterranean (and the rest
of the world beyond). This meant not only that works of art
from foreign regions passed through Liguria, but that
foreign artists (including those from other Italian states)
visited and even stayed on to work.

the 13th and 15th
Antiquity
centuries, it was generally
The earliest evidence easier to find Tuscan artists,
of artistic expres­ rather than local
sion in Liguria ones, working
include Palaeo­ in Liguria.
lithic carvings In terms of
linked to famous sites sculpture, one of the
such as Balzi Rossi period’s most significant
(see p173). works was the funerary
Surprisingly few traces monu ment (1313–14)
of the Romans survive in of Margaret of Brabant,
Liguria. Much of their now in Genoa’s Museo
energy was spent di Sant’Agostino (see Equestrian portrait of Giovanni Carlo
gaining control of the Crucifixion p61). It was commis­ Doria by Rubens
area (only Genoa gave (1138), Sarzana sioned by emperor
in willingly). The city cathedral Henry VII from the
of Luni (see p131), Tuscan Giovanni The Renaissance and
Baroque Periods
founded in 177 BC, has some Pisano. The same museum has
examples of Roman sculpture, the remains of a 14th­century In the 16th century, an era
but these are best described as statue of Simone Boccanegra, in which Genoa’s top families
well­made crafts rather than the first doge of Genoa. became rich through their
works of great artistic merit. Political and territorial up­ dealings in international finance,
heavals increasingly opened up new artistic genres reached
Ligurian cities to the influence Liguria, including the art of
Middle Ages
(and presence) of artists from fresco­painting.
Liguria in the Middle Ages, Lombardy and Flanders: the Among Liguria’s best­known
which consisted of walled Crucifixion (15th century) by the fresco painters was Luca
towns linked to one another Pavia artist Donato de’ Bardi, Cambiaso, born in Moneglia
by sea rather than by land, now in Savona’s Pinacoteca in 1527, and active mainly in
was of greater interest architec­ Genoa. His works can be seen
turally than artistically. in the Cappella Lercari in Genoa’s
The first important examples San Lorenzo cathedral (see
of figurative art from this era pp56–7), and also in the Santuario
emerged from the Lunigiana della Madonna delle Grazie,
(the area around Luni, an not far from Chiavari (see p118).
important port until the 12th In the 17th century Genoa
century), which was culturally was a rich city, in terms of both
close to Tuscany. One such commercial banking and art,
example is the Crucifixion (1138) and several of the city’s fine
now in the cathedral of Santa private art collections started
Maria Assunta in Sarzana (see in this period: the city’s newly
p132). The work of a Tuscan wealthy families needed a
called Maestro Guglielmo, large number of paintings to
this is probably the only work fill their vast palaces. The work
of significance from the 12th Funerary monument of Margaret available in the city attracted
century in Liguria. In fact, in of Brabant artists from all over Italy, as well





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A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  29



early 17th cen tury, and fell in a pupil of Domenico Piola, but
love with the city. He became a made his name as a sculptor
major influence in the of wood. His fine crucifixes
development of Genoese can be found in churches all
Baroque. Another influence at over Liguria.
this time was Anthony Van
Dyck, some of whose works are
on display in Genoa’s Palazzo
Rosso gallery (see pp76–9).
Among other fine Renaissance
works on show in the same
gallery are Judith and Holofernes
(c.1550–80) by Veronese, San
Sebastiano (1615) by Guido
Reni and The Cook (c.1620s) by
Bernardo Strozzi. There are also
some fine portraits by Dürer,
Pisanello and Paris Bordone.
The Pinacoteca Civica in
Savona (see p140) has interes-
Annunciation by Paolo di Giovanni ting works of art from the same
Fei (14th century) era, including works by Donato
De’ Bardi and Taddeo di Bartolo. Portrait of the Contessa de
as from abroad. In general, most La Spezia’s Museo Amedeo Byland by Boldini (1901)
of the works commissioned Lia (see p128), affectionately
or bought by Genoa’s noble known as the “Louvre of Liguria”,
patrons were not by Liguria’s houses various Renaissance Present Day
home-grown artists. works of considerable value. The 19th and 20th centuries
It was around this time that Among these are the Portrait in Liguria have been more
works by Flemish artists started of a Gentleman (c. 1510) by remarkable for the develop-
to reach Liguria – evidence of Titian and Annunciation by ments in architecture than in
the cultural and commercial Paolo di Giovanni Fei (14th art. Modern art in Liguria lacks
influ ence that the Low century), as well as works by a strong regional identity.
Countries had on Ligurian some of the great artists of the Among the most significant
merchants. The Palazzo Spinola 16th century – including collections of modern art in
di Pellicceria gallery in Genoa Raphael and Veronese. Liguria’s Liguria are the Villa Croce
(see p68) houses several greatest fresco painters, both in Genoa (see p61), and two
international master pieces active in the 17th century, were collections in Nervi (see p93).
dating from this period, such as the rivals Gregorio De Ferrari These are in the Raccolta
the Ecce Homo by Antonello da and Domenico Piola, whose Frugoni in Villa Grimaldi, and
Messina, and Equestrian portrait work can be seen side by side the Raccolta d’Arte Moderna.
of Giovanni Carlo Doria (1606) in Genoa’s Palazzo Rosso. The latter’s vast collection of
by Peter Paul Rubens. The latter Anton Maria Maragliano drawings, sculptures, paintings
artist arrived in Genoa in the (1664–1739), from Genoa was and engravings dates from the
19th and 20th centuries. The
core of the collection consists
of the art owned by Prince
Oddone di Savoia, which was
donated to the community
in 1866. The museum’s
collection is largely regional,
with some works by national
and international artists.
The Sandro Pertini Collection,
in the Pinacoteca Civica in
Savona (see p140), is devoted
to modern art, mostly Italian.
There are paintings by
Morandi, De Chirico, Rosai,
Guttuso and Birolli, and
sculptures by Henry Moore
Fresco by Cambiaso, Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie, Chiavari and Joan Miró.





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30  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Architecture in Liguria

The truly creative expressions in Liguria’s past lie less with
art, or sculpture, than in the people’s exceptional capacity to
adapt their buildings to the contours of an often harsh and
difficult landscape. Perched above the sea and hemmed in
by the Apennines, the cities of the Italian Riviera developed
in a totally individual way. In Genoa, in particular, the
defining characteristic of the city was as a meeting point
between the port – the hub of commercial traffic – and Coloured marble on the façade of San
the city streets. Lorenzo, Genoa

Ancient Architecture
The first examples of individual buildings were Bronze Age settlements which, although they
bore similarities to other megalithic structures of the same period, they introduced a new element:
a fortification capable of defending people and their work. In the Roman era, various cities were
built or expanded, among them Luni, Genua (Genoa) and Albingaunum (Albenga), which were all
given typical Roman features, such as bridges, aqueducts, amphitheatres, and trading quays in the
ports. The most impressive amphitheatre in Liguria can be seen among the ruins of ancient Luni,
at the foot of the Apuan Alps (a source of white marble much in demand in ancient Rome).
The remnants of a Roman road also survive between Albenga and Alassio.

Settlements called “castellari” were
fortifications on high ground made
up of concentric circles of dry-
stone walls designed to The houses were
protect villages usually cabins. Defensive
and pasture. wall







The Middle Ages The cathedral of
San Lorenzo in Genoa
Medieval architecture in Liguria shows similarities with (see pp56–7), begun in 1118, is
the building styles that developed in other areas along the most famous example of
the Tyrrhenian coast. In Genoa, the main development Ligurian Gothic.
in architecture involved the construction of mansions
for rich families of merchants, grouped together in small
districts and headed by families linked by business
connections. Genoese churches constructed in the
Romanesque and Gothic styles were typically built with
black-and-white stripes, and laden with materials from
earlier (including Roman) eras. Elsewhere in Liguria this
was a period of local rivalries and disputes characterized
by the construction of numerous castles and tower
houses. Liguria’s pretty hilltop villages are another
symbol of the Middle Ages, and many of them still
preserve their medieval structure. Of particular note
are the region’s famous carrugi, the narrow and usually
steep lanes that penetrate into the heart of these
often labyrinthine settlements.
The doors are flanked by rich
decoration in marble.






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A POR TR AIT OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  31



Renaissance Palazzi
In Genoa, the 16th and 17th centuries were a boom period – referred to as the “Genoese Century” –
during which a handful of powerful families financed the construction of numerous grand palaces.
A figure of particular importance in Genoese Renaissance history was Andrea Doria (1466–1560),
admiral and patron of the arts, who built the magnificent Palazzo Doria Pamphilj (see pp82–3). The
laying of Via Garibaldi, or “La Strada Nuova”, in the mid 16th century, was a great example of civic
town planning. The palazzi along this monumental street, including Palazzo Doria-Tursi, symbolized
the power of the great Genoese families. Other impressive schemes included the construction of
the Molo Nuovo (new quay) and of the famous Lanterna (lighthouse), both in the port. Such was
the reputation of Genoa’s architects that they exported their palazzo designs and materials
to Spain, France and northern Europe.

Palazzo Doria-Tursi
(see p75), begun in 1565, Decorations in white marble
is now Genoa’s Town Hall. and pink stone
It is three times the size of
the other palazzi on The side
Via Garibaldi. loggias were
added in 1597.











The Architecture of Today
After decades of crisis, years during which Genoa’s historic The colossal structure of
centre was abandoned to its own devices, the city has Il Bigo (see p64), designed by
rediscovered pride in itself and a capacity to undertake grand local boy Renzo Piano, is
projects. The 500th anniversary of the discovery of America by reminiscent of the cranes of
Genoa’s mercantile past, while
Columbus (1992) provided the impetus to revamp the port the sphere is a glasshouse
area, which had long been blighted by the presence of the containing palms and vast ferns.
coastal motorway; and Genoa’s role as European Capital of The Aquarium was built in 1992
Culture in 2004 has prompted renovation and building work for the Columbus celebrations.
elsewhere. One of the aims of the restoration of the port area
was to link it, finally, to the narrow alleys of old Genoa.
The “arms”
support a
panoramic lift.
Glass Structure in
panels aluminium










A taut cover protects
a pedestrian square.






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32  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A
THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

THROUGH THE YEAR

The pleasant and mild, typically Mediter- year round, but there are also numerous
ranean climate, the intense contrasts of light special events which can add extra local
and colour, the romantic coastline and the colour to any trip. These events include
equally fascinating interior have made many religious and gastro nomic festivals,
Liguria a desirable destination for tourists and also historical re-enact ments and
since the mid-19th century. The clear blue regattas – the latter a colourful reminder of
sea, the beaches and the stunning and lush the importance of the seafaring tradition
coastal scenery are consistent attractions all to this part of Italy.


April
Good Friday processions
Good Friday (Venerdí Santo)
have a fervent following,
especially on the Riviera di
Ponente. They are celebrated
with processions in which local
confraternities file past,
with casse (carved wooden
sculptures) portraying scenes
from the Passion. The proces-
sions in Savona and Genoa
are particularly popular, but
similar events take place in
the Ligurian hinterland, too.
Settimana Santa, Ceriana.
Processions of confraternities
and representations of the
The mid-May fish festival at Camogli Descent from the Cross
(Calata della Croce), with
Milano–San Remo (first Sat after religious songs.
Spring
19 Mar). A classic, long-distance
Mild temperatures and pure cycling race. May
air characterize spring in Liguria, Festa di Primavera (all month). Sagra del Pesce (fish festival),
which welcomes visitors with Music, art and flower shows Camogli (second Sun in May).
colour and unforgettable scents. along the Riviera dei Fiori, to A gigantic frying pan is used
The profusion of colourful celebrate the advent of spring. to fry a huge quantity of fish,
flowers contrasts with the blue which both locals and visitors
of the sea and the snow-capped are then invited to eat: a lovely
peaks of the Ligurian Alps. gesture made in the hope
that the seas will be equally
March generous to the fishermen.
Rassegna dell’Olio d’Oliva, Festa della Focaccia con il
Balestrino. This village north Formaggio, Recco (fourth Sun).
of Albenga is proud of its 17 A bustling festival held to
different types of olive. During celebrate the famous cheese
the festival the public can focaccia of Recco, a small
taste different types of oil but gastronomic town just
and olives, as well as other north of Camogli. Abundant
traditional foods. tastings on offer.
Fiera di San Giuseppe, La
Spezia (19 Mar). This immensely Summer
popular festival is held in honour
of the town’s patron saint, San The high season for tourists,
Giuseppe. It offers more than summer is hot and sunny
800 street stalls and vendors, along the coast while it is
and abundant entertainment A cyclist celebrating his victory in the fresher and wetter in the
for all the family. Milano–San Remo race hilly interior.




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THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A THROUGH THE Y EAR  33


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Sunshine
Hours In both spring and summer
10 the long days of sunshine,
which are never excessively
8 hot, are perfect for swim-
6 ming and sailing. The light
and colours of autumn,
4 meanwhile, are delightful,
while a clear winter’s day
2 means that the white peaks
0 of the Alps are visible in
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the distance.

June placed on the water, and Triora.
Infiorata (first week of Jun). Festa e Palio di San Pietro,
To celebrate Corpus Domini Genoa (29 Jun). A race with
(Corpus Christi), many towns traditional boats, as well
strew carpets of flowers along as illuminations.
processional routes; the best Palio marinaro del Tigullio
take place in Sassello, Imperia, (Jun/Jul). Regattas in resorts
Diano Marina and Pietra Ligure. along the Tigullio coast,
There is also a Battaglia di including Chiavari,
Fiori (battle of flowers) Rapallo and Lavagna.
in Ventimiglia.
Regata delle Antiche July
Repubbliche Raduno delle Fiat
Marinare, Genoa 500, Garlenda (early Jul).
(early Jun, every Participants arrive in The Muretto of Alassio, during a
four years). A their Fiat 500s from all beauty competition
regatta in which teams over Europe.
from the cities of the Cristo degli Abissi, San August
four ancient maritime Fruttuoso di Camogli Stella Maris, Camogli (first Sun).
republics (Genoa, Pisa, (end Jul). Nocturnal mass A festival of the sea, with a
Amalfi and Venice) and torchlit procession procession of boats to the
compete in old of divers to the massive Punta della Chiappa, with
sailing ships; statue of Christ on the thousands of little wax candles
there are processions, Girl in historical sea bed. bobbing on the waves.
too. Genoa is the host costume Sagra delle Rose and Torta dei Fieschi, Lavagna
every four years. In Sagra delle Pesche, (14 Aug). The re-enactment
2016, the regatta was Pogli d’Ortovero (end Jul). A of the lavish 13th-century
held in Amalfi. lovely celebration of the roses wedding between Opizzo Fieschi
Festa di San Giovanni, Genoa and peaches grown in this and Bianca de’ Bianchi, with a
(24 Jun). Celebrations in honour area near Albenga. This event historical procession and the
of St John. Also in Laigueglia, gives visitors the chance to try cutting of an enormous cake.
where 5,000 lit candles are local specialities. Castelli di Sabbia, Alassio
(mid-Aug). National competition
for the best sandcastle on
the beach.
Processione dell’Assunta, Nervi
(15 Aug). Evening procession,
with a blessing of the sea and a
firework display.
Festa della Madonna Bianca,
Portovenere (17 Aug). At 9pm
torchlights are lit during a
procession to the headland
of San Pietro.
Miss Muretto, Alassio (end Aug/
early Sep). The prettiest girl is
elected and given the title
dedicated to the town’s famous
Sailing teams of the four republics at the Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare “Muretto” (wall) of celebrities.




032-035_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 33 09/09/16 10:43 am

34  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Average Monthly Rainfall
MM Inches Rainfall
150 6 Liguria’s weather is
characterized by a fair
120
4.5 amount of rainfall,
especially during the
90
3 autumn, when violent
60 storms may occur and
sometimes rivers may
1.5
30 flood. The Riviera di
Ponente is generally
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec drier and sunnier than
the Riviera di Levante.
honour of the grape (uva),
including a costumed
procession, a challenge in
dialect and a series of contests
between grape harvesters.
Sagra della Lumaca,
Molini di Triora (last week).
Enormous frying pans full of
snails (lumache) are cooked
following an ancient recipe
once used by the village’s noble
families, who would present
them as the pièce de résistance
at sumptuous banquets,
because of their supposed
magical powers.
Yachts at their moorings in Imperia
October
Sagra del Pigato, Salea di Salone Internazionale
Autumn Albenga (early Sep). A festival della Nautica, Genoa (first
Autumn, with its warm colours in honour of Pigato wine, with and second week). This is the
and still, balmy and sunny days, exhibitions, food pavilions, largest nautical fair to be held
is the ideal season for visiting dancing and sporting events. anywhere in the Mediterranean,
Liguria. Towns and villages are Festa della Madonna della with yachts, motorboats, inflat-
less crowded, and it is easier Villa, Ceriana (early Sep). ables and associated nautical
to find accommodation; in Solemn candle-lit processions paraphernalia.
essence, it is easier to get to and a music festival of folk Sagra della Farinata, Voltri (late
know the area’s sights, towns, music in the village square, Oct). Tastings of local, mostly
culture and gastronomy, with choirs singing Genoese, gastronomic specialities,
in greater peace. traditional songs. including Liguria’s famous baked
Commemorazione della chickpea snack (farinata).
September Battaglia Napoleonica,
Regata Storica dei Rioni, Loano. Exhibitions,
Noli (first or second Sun). ceremonies and parades
The four districts of the in historical costume
town challenge each are staged in order to
other to a rowing race. commemorate the
There are processions in Bottle of Pigato Battle of Loano, in 1795,
historical costume, too. white wine in which the French
Sagra del Fuoco, Recco revolutionary army
(7–8 Sep). Festival in succeeded in driving out
honour of the patron saint, the Austrian army.
Nostra Signora del Suffragio. Sagra dell’Uva, Varazze.
Anchovy Festival, Monterosso A traditional festival with
Al Mare (second week). People tastings and the sale of local
travel from all over Italy to wines. A similar festival is held
celebrate the village’s speciality. at Vezzano Ligure (see below).
There are tastings, music Sagra dell’Uva, Vezzano A motor launch on display at Genoa’s
and fireworks. Ligure (mid-Sep). A festival in nautical fair




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THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A THROUGH THE Y EAR  35


Average Monthly Temperature
Temperature
°C °F
30 90 The coastal strip,
exposed to the south,
25 80 experiences sea breezes
20 70 which refresh the hottest
and sunniest summers,
15 60
and temper the winter
10 50 temperatures – the latter
are never too severe, even
5 40
in the interior. Autumn
0 30 and spring offer warm
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
and clear days.
January
Winter Festa di Capodanno (New
Although it can be Year), Genoa. The city’s carrugi
windy, winter in the Italian and the Porto Antico are
Riviera often provides days thronged with people.
with full sun, making it an
ideal time to explore the February
region’s medieval towns Festa dei Furgari, Taggia
and villages. (early Feb). Dedicated to San
Benedetto. Furgari (bamboo
December canes filled with gunpowder)
Natale Subacqueo, are set alight, while banquets
Tellaro (24 Dec). The last all through the night.
village is illuminated with Fiera di Sant’Agata, Genoa
1,000 torchlights, and at (5 Feb). Stalls sell knick-knacks
midnight divers emerge and sweetmeats on the Sunday
with the statue of Baby closest to 5 Feb. (Also in San
Bonfires lit in the streets during the Festa dei Jesus, which is welcomed Fruttuoso.) Carnevale, Loano.
Furgari at Taggia with fireworks. Allegorical carriages and people
“U Confogu” (Confuoco), in fancy dress parade through
November Pietra Ligure and Savona (Sun the town.
Olioliva, Imperia (late Nov). before Christmas). Traditional Sagra della Mimosa, Pieve
Held in the area where ceremony with a costumed Ligure. Floral carriages and
taggiasca olives are grown. procession and the lighting costumed processions.
Visits to olive presses (frantoi) of a propitiatory bundle of Festival della Canzone Italiana,
are arranged, and a produce laurel. Auspices for the coming San Remo (last week Feb).
market is held at Oneglia. year are divined from the Annual pop music festival
Restaurants offer special menus. resulting flames. with international guests.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
Epiphany (6 Jan)
Easter Sunday
Easter Monday
Anniversario della
Liberazione (25 Apr)
Labour Day (1 May)
Festa della Repubblica
(2 Jun)
Ferragosto (15 Aug)
All Saints (1 Nov)
Immaculate Conception
(8 Dec)
Christmas (25 Dec)
Boxing Day (26 Dec)
Mimosa in flower, brightening the gardens of the hinterland




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INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  37

THE HISTORY OF THE

ITALIAN RIVIERA


The history of Liguria is linked inextricably with the sea. The coastal
climate encouraged early settlement and the Romans built the first ports.
Most importantly, from the start of the second millennium, the Republic of
Genoa became a major seapower whose tentacles reached all over the
Mediterranean, and beyond.

The climate and geography of Liguria Cévennes. While clashes and power
were highly favourable to humans in struggles were taking place both in
the far distant past. The coast was the lowlands and in the mountains to
suitable for settlements and navigation the north, new arrivals turned up on the
on the open sea, while travel to what Ligurian coast: the Greeks and the Etruscans
is now the Côte d’Azur and France was who were, at the time, in total control of
made easy by the low coastal hills. As a the Mediterranean and its markets. The
result, the population of this part of the Greeks were by then firmly installed in
Mediterranean was very scattered. Proof Marseille, and sought space to settle in
of this comes from the numerous traces the Ligurian valleys. The Etruscans had
of tombs and hearths found in the caves foun ded ports and trading cities along
and on the hills of the region, forming the Tuscan coast.
an almost uninterrupted line from Liguria A series of settlements was established
to Provence. during this period, inclu ding proper
The first Ligurians appeared during villages at Genoa, Chiavari and Ameglia.
the Bronze Age. In an era of migration, Traces of necropoli in which the ashes
and battles to occupy the best positions, of the deceased were buried have
the Ligurians fortified their settlements been discovered.
with walls to defend villages, pasture The onset of the Roman era was
and access to the sea. They were marked by the arrival of Roman legions
mentioned for the first time (under the around 218 BC, and this represented a
name of Ligyes) in the 7th century BC much more significant chan ge for the
by Greek sour ces, who described how region than the disruptions caused by
the land controlled by the ancient previous popula tions of travellers and
Ligurians extended far beyond the merchants. For Rome, Liguria represented
current boundaries of the region, as a fundamental transit point for expansion
far as the limits of Catalonia and the into nearby Gaul.



240,000 BC First 80,000–60,000 BC 12,340 BC Date 218 BC The
burial in the cave at Presence of Neanderthal of handprints and Romans establish
Balzi Rossi man in Ligurian sites footprints found in their first base
the Grotte di Toirano in Liguria
300,000 BC 100,000 BC 50,000 BC 10,000 BC 1,000 BC 100 BC
First millennium BC
Golden age of the Ligurians
36,000–10,000 BC Footprints in
Finds in the Balzi Era of Homo sapiens and contact with the Greeks
Rossi museum the Grotte and Phoenicians
di Toirano
Detail from the frescoes by Perin del Vaga in the Loggia degli Eroi, Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Genoa


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38  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A

Prehistoric Liguria

The long rocky coast, with steep, vertical cliffs facing the
sea, made Liguria a particularly attractive destination for
our ancient ancestors. The rise and fall of the sea level,
over the course of millennia, has brought about the
emergence and disappearance of hundreds of caves
which have been inhabited by man since the prehistoric
era. As well as offering coastal shelter, food and fishing
possibilities, Liguria also provided a series of staging
posts between the coast and the hinterland and the
plains of the Po Valley. At the end of the prehistoric era,
man regularly made use of the remote Monte Bego and
the Vallée des Merveilles, just across the border into
France. In the western Riviera, in the meantime, a new Monte Bego
In the area around Monte Bego
urban and military set-up had emerged: the settlements (a sacred mountain), and in the
known as castellari, which protected villages and Vallée des Merveilles, prehistoric
pastures from invasion by peoples approaching from man has left more than 100,000 rock
the sea, intent on expanding their dominion in carvings of religious significance on
rocks smoothed and etched by the
the hinterland. passing of ancient glaciers.


The Triplice Sepoltura
(Triple Grave)
Found in the Barma Grande at
Balzi Rossi, this provides important
evidence of human presence
in the area. Accompanying Pieve di Teco
the skeletons of one adult,
a boy and a girl, was a
rich collection of Triora
funerary objects.



Imperia
Taggia
San Remo
Ventimiglia
The caves of the Balzi Rossi form part of a
reddish, calcareous wall jutting out over the
sea. There are 12 caves altogether.




Craftmanship in Liguria
The first crafts to be discovered in
the region date back 35,000 years,
to the late Palaeolithic period. Treasures
from the Balzi Rossi caves (now in the
museum) include a unique Przewalski
Horse incised on a wall of the Grotta del
Caviglione 20,000 years ago, and 15
Venus soapstone Venus figurines, symbols of
fertility, found in the Barma Grande.
figure Przewalski horse




038-039_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 38 09/09/16 10:46 am

THE HIST OR Y OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  39

















Arene Candide
The “white sands” cave (a sand
Savona dune once covered it) is closed
to the public. Finds from it are
exhibited in the archaeological
museum at Pegli, near Genoa.





Finale Where to See Prehistoric Liguria
Ligure



Albenga




Grotte di Toirano
In the Grotta della Bàsura are The interior of the Balzi Rossi museum
hand-, knee- and footprints of
Cro-magnon men, women Some of Liguria’s most significant prehistoric sites
and children. are also fascinating places to visit, in particular
the site of the Balzi Rossi, with its museum (see
p173), and the Grotte di Toirano (see pp150–51),
with their superb formations of stalactites and
stalagmites. Hikes offering breathtaking
scenery can also be taken along the Alpine
paths of the Vallée des Merveilles and Monte
The Caves of Liguria Bego, which lie just across the border in France.
The women of Liguria’s most ancient ancestor
died in the Grotta del Principe around 240,000
years ago. The great cave complex of Balzi Rossi,
however, continued to be used by Neanderthal
man even after that. Groups of hunter-gatherers
lived in many other Ligurian caves, too: at Arma
di Taggia near San Remo, and in the Grotta delle
Fate at Toirano near Finale Ligure. With the
passing of millennia, our closest ancestor (Homo
sapiens) settled in Liguria, where traces of his
presence have been found at Balzi Rossi, at
Toirano and in the grotto of Arene Candide in
the Savona province, where archaeologists
found 20 graves, including the famous tomb Hikers in the Vallée des Merveilles
of the Giovane Principe (Young Prince).




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40  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


As they conquered territory, the Romans
also colonized it, gradually establishing a
whole series of towns along the coast. The
most important of these Roman settle-
ments were: Portus Lunae (Luni), Ingaunum
(Albenga), Alba Docilia (Albisola), Genua
(Genoa), Portus Delphini (Portofino) and
Segesta Tigulliorum (Sestri Levante). Roman
Liguria, however, was never more than a
Ruined Roman villa at Alba Docilia, now Albisola backwater – the result of its distance from
the main routes of communication through
Roman Liguria Italy, and the fact that the Romans’ most
The focus of the Romans was to important ports were elsewhere.
establish landing stages for merchants
and ships, but they did not have an Barbarian Invasions
easy time establishing their presence in The armies of the Visigoths under Alaric
Liguria. Genoa was one of the few places reached Liguria from North Africa in
that fell to the Romans without conflict; AD 409, and after that the region was
it was incorporated into the Roman raided by the Goths and their allies,
empire in the 2nd century BC. the Heruli. Armies
The toughness of the Ligurians came and went,
attracted the Carthaginians (under the while both the
command of Hannibal and his brothers political and
Hasdrubal and Mago), who co-opted, military situation
as allies, the tribes of the Intumeli and in the whole
Ingauni. In 205 BC, the Carthaginians Italian peninsula
besieged and destroyed Genoa. The was in a constant
Romans prevailed, however and, once state of flux. In Rotarius, king of the Longobards,
the Carthaginians had been driven back, AD 536 Italy was who reached Liguria in 641
they continued their expansion, attacking invaded by the
Gallic tribes and extending the road forces of the Eastern Empire, under
network, which became a vital means the leadership of Justinian I. They
of communication within the empire. eventually overcame the Goths, and a
The Via Postumia reached Roman Genua fairly peaceful period under Byzantine
(Genoa) from Mediolanum (Milan) in rule followed. Bishoprics had already
148 BC, although the road of greatest started to emerge in the 5th century,
significance was the Via Julia Augusta, and continued to be created under the
which was laid along the coast – the Byzantines, including that of Albenga.
modern Via Aurelia follows its route. Liguria was given the name of Provincia



205 BC Genoa, allied to Portrait of 4th century Liguria becomes
Rome, is destroyed by Hannibal Provincia Maritima Italorum, part
the Carthaginians of the Byzantine empire
100 BC AD 400 600
AD 409 Invasion
of Visigoths 641–643
under Alaric Lombard
conquest by
Alaric’s coat troops led
of arms by Rothari




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THE HIST OR Y OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  41


Maritima Italorum by its Mediterranean islands of
new rulers. Corsica and Sardinia. Genoese
The period of Byzantine ships from the ports of Noli
rule came to a close with the and Savona also took part in
arrival in 641 of the Lombards, the Crusades.
led by King Rothari. The
towns of Liguria became part Genoa Expands
of a Frankish territory which Along the Coast
included tracts of land which Besides its growing power
now form part of Tuscany. The at sea, Genoa also sought to
Saracens made incursions in Battle with the Saracens, expand its sphere of influence,
901, often from bases in the a 14th-century miniature both commer cially and
south of France. Later in the militarily, on dry land. Genoa
10th century, during the reign of gained control of cities, valleys and the
Berengarius, northeast Italy was divided mountain passes linking the coast to
into three: Obertenga, to the east, included the Po valley, and even extended its
Genoa, Aleramica, in the centre, included dominion along the banks of that great
Albenga, and Arduinica, to the west, river – a move crucial to a republic
included Ventimiglia. The families who dependent on agricultural provisions.
had control of these territiories (such as After a century of clashes, battles
the Del Carretto) found themselves in a and alliances, by 1232 virtually the
powerful position that lasted for centuries. entire Riviera di Levante coast was
effectively under Genoese control.
The Rise of Genoa Among the cities which clashed most
Around the year 1000, the golden age violently with Genoa were Ventimiglia
of the free communes dawned. Their (which fell in 1262) and Savona,
main activities revolved around maritime which, following a long fight for
trade and the arming of commercial or independence, surrendered in 1528.
military fleets. In this era of economic
and political development, Genoese
predominance became increasingly
noticeable, though life was not entirely
peaceful. In the mid-12th century, the
city built a new wall to protect it against
the ravages of Emperor Frederick I,
known as Barbarossa. Never theless,
after the independence of the Genoese
commune was recognized, it began to
compete with Pisa for control of the The port of Genoa as portrayed in a 16th-century painting

1099 The
“Compagna”, 1133
890 Beginning of 984 Benedictines a pact between Genoa
raids by Saracens rebuild the Abbey the districts of becomes
based in France of San Fruttuoso Genoa, is set up the seat of
a bishopric
600 800 1000
935 Sacking of Genoa by 1097 Genoa 1162 The Holy Roman
the Arabs contributes ten Emperor recognizes
galleys to the the autonomy
Cross of a knight who took part first Crusade of Genoa
in the first Crusade





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42  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Genoa’s Golden Age

The enterprising trading activities of Genoa’s great
shipowning families turned the city into a Mediterranean
power from the beginning of the 12th century. The exploits
of aristocratic dynasties such as the Doria family took the
Genoese to all corners of the known oceans. The growth
in Genoa’s power was consolidated with increasingly close
links to other cities in Liguria, which were often in Genoese The Mediterranean (1250)
control, and to the area around Asti (in Piedmont) and Genoese trade routes
Pisa trade routes
Provence, indispensable suppliers of salt, grain and Venetian trade routes
agricul tural produce. Simone Boccanegra became Genoa’s
first lifetime Doge in 1339, although the most powerful
institu tion during this period was the Banco di San Giorgio
(Bank of St George). In a city plagued by violent struggles Oberto Doria, founder
between rival factions, the bank maintained a neutral of the illustrious Genoese
position. At that time, thriving commercial houses from dynasty, acquired the town
of Dolceacqua in 1270.
all over Europe were represented in Genoa, and the
representatives of the Banco di San Giorgio became
familiar figures in treasuries all over Europe.

The Pisan fleet consisted
of 72 galleys. The defeat of
Pisa was dramatic: 5,000
men died and 11,000
prisoners were taken in
chains to Genoa.









Rivalry with Pisa and Venice
Genoa struggled against two rival powers,
Pisa and Venice. Pisa was defeated at
Meloria but, with the advance of the
Turks, Genoa saw her possessions in the
East increasingly under threat, and the
republic’s rivalry with Venice intensified.









Genoa expands its rule along the coast
Many cities along the Riviera di Ponente were
in Genoa’s orbit at the time, including Albenga,
which was forced to sign increasingly restrictive
pacts, until its final subjugation in 1251. Ventimiglia
yielded in 1261, followed in 1276 by Porto
Maurizio. Shown left is an engraving (1613) by
Magini of ships off the western riviera.




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THE HIST OR Y OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  43


Genoa and the Crusades
During the 250 years of the Crusades, the maritime republics vied for
supremacy in the struggle over trade routes, colonies and beneficial
alliances. The two Crusades that brought about the conquest of
Jerusalem saw the Genoese take an active role in the naval front line,
with their condottiero Guglielmo Embriaco. In the ports of Acre and
Haifa (in modern Israel), Genoese merchants built homes and ware­
houses, as well as churches. At its peak, the city of Acre had 50,000
inhabitants and 38 churches. It was the last place in the Holy Land
to be conquered by the Arabs, in 1291. When the Christian kingdoms
present in the Holy Land found themselves in trouble, Genoa
frequently allied itself to the Knights of St John, the Armenians and
The Seige of Jerusalem in the First even the Tartars in the fight against Venice, Pisa, the Templars and
Crusade (1099) the Mameluks of Egypt.



The Meloria rocks (after which the
battle was named) lie off Livorno, some
7km (4 miles) offshore.





Battles between the Guelphs and Ghibellines
During the long struggle between the Papacy and
the Holy Roman Empire, the Guelphs supported
the former, the Ghibellines the latter. Towns seldom
had fixed loyalties but noble families did: the
Doria were famously Ghibelline.
The Battle of Meloria
One of the events that confirmed Genoese
dominance in the Mediterranean was the
Battle of Meloria, which saw Genoa fight
and defeat her rival, Pisa over possession
of Corsica. In August 1284, a Genoese fleet
under the command of Oberto Doria, took
up position close to Porto Pisano. The battle
was violent and the victor was uncertain
until the arrival of a second group of
Genoese galleys, which took her adversary
by surprise. Shown here is The Naval Battle
of Meloria by Giovanni David, in Genoa’s
Palazzo Ducale.




The Genoese fleet was
made up of 93 galleys. Banco di San Giorgio
Founded in the early 1400s, the
Bank of St George not only
Meloria was also the setting ran the domestic treasury,
for an earlier battle, in 1241, in but was also directly involved
which the Pisans, allied to Holy
Roman Emperor Frederick II, with Genoa’s colonies, such
defeated the Genoese. as Famagusta in Cyprus.
Shown here is an “8 Real”
coin minted by the bank.




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44  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


although Genoa succeeded in eliminating
Pisan influence from the Tyrrhenian Sea
and from its major islands, taking decisive
control of Corsica and defeating Pisa at the
Battle of Meloria in 1284, the conflict with
Venice was more protracted.
The Genoese defeated the Venetian fleet
in the Battle of Curzola in the Adriatic in
1298, but were unable to reap the fruits of
this victory and turn the situation in the East
to their advantage. Turkish pressure led to
an allian ce with Venice (1343) which was of
brief duration. The last war between Genoa
and Venice (a result of both cities setting
their sights on Cyprus) was decisive. The
Andrea Doria in a portrait by Sebastiano del Piombo battles of Pola (1379) and Chioggia (1380)
led to the Pace di Torino (Peace of Turin),
Clashes with Other which heralded the final decline of
Maritime Republics Genoese hegemony.
The centuries that witnessed the great
geographical and commercial expansion The Republic of Genoa
around the Mediterranean of Italy’s The period of the great continental
maritime republics, also saw Genoa extend struggles between the papacy and the
its tentacles in all directions. With the Holy Roman Empire by no means spared
Crusades – from the first, which brought Genoa and other Ligurian cities. The
about the capture of Jerusalem, to the ill- international nature of the struggle meant
fated expedition of King Louis IX of France that foreign princes – such as the Visconti
to North Africa – Genoa acquired ports of Milan, summoned by the Ghibellines of
and also maone (associations the Riviera di Ponente, or Robert
involved in the financing of of Anjou, who intervened in
commercial enterprises), in all favour of the Guelphs – became
corners of the Mediterranean. involved in Liguria’s local conflicts.
She then extended her sphere During this period, Genoa
of influence towards the east was governed for almost two
and to the ports of the Black centuries by life-appointed
Sea – important trading stations doges, a position inaugurated
on the Silk Road. in the 14th century. In 1522,
It was a time of increasingly Emperor Charles V, allied to however, their relatively peaceful
tough alliances and clashes: Andrea Doria rule over Genoa was shattered

1245–1252
Construction 1252 The genovi no 1284 Victory
of the basilica is coined, Europe’s of Genoa over 1339 Simone
dei Fieschi di first gold coin Pisa at Meloria Boccanegra becomes
San Salvatore the first doge of Genoa
Battle of Meloria
1250 1300 1350
1298 Genoese victory
1251 Savona is over Venice at Curzola 1361 San Remo
attacked 1262 Ventimiglia, becomes a free
by Genoa defeated, comes under commune
Genoese influence





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THE HIST OR Y OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  45


by the arrival of Spanish troops. raids) in the Mediterranean. The 17th
Andrea Doria later put the city under century saw numerous revolts by the
the protection of Charles V, King of Corsicans, as well as renewed attempts
Spain and Holy Roman Emperor – a by the colonial power to impose its
demonstration of how power in the authority. But the decline of Genoa, along
city had shifted. Andrea Doria (see with widespread dissatisfaction among
p83) was a talented soldier and Corsicans, provoked yet more revolts
admiral, and a member of one in the early 18th century, eventually
of Genoa’s great families. resulting in the annexation of Corsica
He was named lord of the to France.
city in 1528.
In 1553, for reasons Other Ligurian
connec ted to the wars Columbus, a native of Cities Develop
between France and Spain, Genoa Albenga, which had long sought
the French decided to land on to resist the power of Genoa, finally
Genoa-dominated Corsica, intending to came under Genoese control following a
establish a base in the Mediterranean Sea. clash between the Guelphs and
Many Genoese fortres ses fell, but a peace Ghibellines. The town of San Remo was
treaty eventually forced the French acquired by the Doria family but managed
to withdraw. to liberate itself in 1361, becoming a free
This was not the end of trouble in commune within the Genoese republic.
Corsica, however. The defeat of the After years of autonomy, Savona was
Ottoman fleet at the Battle of Lepanto defeated by the Genoese in 1528 and
in 1571 led to instability (and also to pirate the conquerors’ first action was to rebuild
the port. A great new fortress, Il
Priamàr, was built, but the local
population went into decline. La
Spezia, subject to Genoa and, from
1371, seat of the Vicariate of the
Riviera di Levante, was fortified at
the end of the 14th century, and
remained under the control of the
Genoese until the early 19th century.
Smaller towns also managed
to find a role for themselves in a
region dominated by the Genoese.
Camogli, Portofino and Chiavari
all lived off the sea, and their
A 16th-century view of the Battle of Lepanto shipyards prospered.


1451 1543 Construction of
1522 Birth of the
1407 Founding Christopher Republic of Genoa La Lanterna, which
of the Banco di Columbus is born becomes the symbol of
San Giorgio in Genoa the city of Genoa
1400 1450 1500
1492 1528 Andrea
1458 Brief period of Colombus Doria comes
French rule over discovers to power
Genoa begins America
Caravel





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46  INTRODUCING THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A


Genoa increa singly moved
away from commerce in order
to con centrate more on
financial investments.
The 17th and 18th
centuries passed with no great
incident, though Corsica was
finally sold to the French in 1768.
Liguria also found itself in conflict
with the expansionist policies of
Piedmont. Occupied in 1746 by
The bombardment of Genoa by the French fleet in 1684 the Austrians and the Piemontese,
Genoa responded with a revolt
The Decline of Genoa provoked by the gesture of a young boy
Two important constitutions were nicknamed Balilla, who sparked off an
established in Genoa in the 16th century: insurrection by hurling a stone at an Austrian
one by Andrea Doria, in 1528, and another cannon.
in 1576, which created the hierarchical
structures that were to rule the city. Piemontese Liguria
However, as time went by, Genoa became The arrival of Napoleon Bonaparte’s French
decidedly more important for the financial troops in Italy completely upset the political
power wielded by its banks than for its equilibrium of Liguria. In 1794 the
political or military strength. A striking troops of Massena and Bonaparte
sign of the diminished political role conquered the mountain passes
of “Genova la Superba” (Genoa the which gave access to Italy. Three
Proud) was the 1684 bombard­ years later the Republic of Liguria
ment of Genoa by the French was esta blished, becoming
fleet under Louis XIV. part of the Napoleonic empire
With the decline in Genoese in 1805. Napoleon’s defeat at
power, a series of autonomous Waterloo and the Congress of
political entities arose in the region, Genoese-born Vienna in 1815 finally put an end
such as the Magnifica Comunità Giuseppe Mazzini to the indepen dence of Genoa
degli Otto Luoghi (“magnificent and Liguria: the region was
community of eight towns”), set up in assigned to Piedmont and became part of
1686 around Bordighera. However, in a the Kingdom of Sardinia, governed by the
Europe in which the role of nation states House of Savoy.
was increas ing in importance, there was The only port of any size in the Kingdom
no longer much room for such auto­ of Savoy, Genoa was linked to Piedmont and
nomous powers. The rich families of to France by new communication routes.

1782
1576 Second 1686 The Magnifica 1768 Niccolò
constitution Comunità degli Otto Permanent loss Paganini
of Genoa Luoghi is set up of Corsica is born
around Bordighera in Genoa
1550 1600 1650 1700 1750

Louis XIV, king 1684 The French fleet 1746 Balilla sparks off a
of France bombards Genoa, causing popular revolt against the
considerable damage Austro­Piemontese






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THE HIST OR Y OF THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A  47


The city was also greatly altered Liguria has seen attempts to develop
by House of Savoy archi tects. In the region’s industry, and to adapt
1828 Carlo Barabino built the its ports to the needs of tourism.
Teatro Carlo Felice and, in 1874, Many industries have faced crisis,
construction of the new port however, and Liguria has had more
of Genoa began. It was greatly success in the field of agriculture, in
enlarged again in 1919 and particular the cut-flower industry.
in 1945. Tourism is also, of course, of prime
Perhaps due to Liguria’s The architect importance economically. The
traditional resentment of Renzo Piano building of the motorway in the
Piedmont, the Risorgimento 1960s has increased the speed of
movement, which sought a united Italy, was deve lop ment on both sides of the Riviera,
particularly strong and heartfelt in Liguria. which are crowded with visitors for most of
Giuseppe Mazzini, one of the key leaders, the year. As the coast has become more
was born in Genoa, and it was from Quarto prosperous and, in some cases, very rich (as
(now a Genoese suburb) that Garibaldi’s in Portofino), so the neglected villages of
“Thousand” set sail for the south in 1860. the interior have met a rather diffe rent fate:
Eventually, a united Kingdom of Italy was many people have moved away, while
formed, which Liguria joi ned in 1861. there has also been a historic lack of
investment in the interior.
Tourism and Liguria Today Genoa, on the other hand, has been the
The building of the railway line along focus of attention for more than a decade.
the coast, following the line of the Via The port was revamped (with the help of
Aurelia, represented a crucial stage in the local architect Renzo Piano) in the run-up
future development of the region. The to the celebrations in honour of Columbus’s
smaller towns, such as Bordighera, San “discovery” of America, and more money
Remo, Alassio, Santa Margherita and Lerici, poured in prior to Genoa’s year as European
became popular destinations with a Capital of Culture (2004).
growing number of visitors, largely the
wealthy and the aristocratic of Europe.
In the 1930s Genoa was reshaped by
Mussolini-era demolition in the heart of
the historic centre. Further modifications
were carried out in the 1960s and 1970s.
The ports and harbours of Liguria were
badly damaged during World War II and,
in the valleys and the mountains of the
Apennines, the Resistance fought hard
against German occupation. Postwar Train at the Corniglia station, Cinque Terre

1782
Niccolò 1805 1828 Carlo 1874 1940–45 Genoa is 2004 2007
Paganini Giuseppe Barabino Construction of badly damaged by Genoa is The 10th
is born Mazzini designs Teatro a new port at bombing in World European Annual Genoa
in Genoa is born Carlo Felice in War II Capital of Film Festival is
in Genoa Genoa Genoa begins Culture held in July
1750 1800 1850 1900 1950 2000
1797 The 1815 Liguria Garibaldi
Republic of becomes 1860 The expedition of departing 1992
Liguria is part of the the Thousand departs from Quarto Columbiadi
established Kingdom of from Quarto (Columbus
Sardinia celebrations) Logo of the
held in Genoa Colombiadi




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